I had a few people asking what was in the black heat shrink, and a few people asking that I should have shown the wire failure point. So not to disappoint I've just been over to the shed, cut it open and uploaded a picture which can be found here: i.imgur.com/tGuAg0k.jpeg 🙂
Just shows the quality of the item, If they can't even be bothered to include a fuse; for something which obviously has the potential to fail at the hinge point. Thanks for the picture.
Such a poor design which is not only found in Ninja appliance's but also many others that have come on the market. But not so much, if any, with the older well established brands
With so many years of experience with laptop (and other) ribbon cable failures and improvements there really is no excuse for this slipshod "engineering."
The obstacles to "right to repair" is illustrated in detail. Companies would rather you buy a new one than make it easily serviceable. Meanwhile land-fills are overflowing with fixable appliances. Nicely Done.
This is typical of this brand unfortunately. Official spares are almost non existent, and the whole thing is designed for the cheapest possible manufacturing which removes the possibility of disassembly without damage
@@robthomas7232 I Love Linux! ❤🖥 The B21R robots (RWI/iRobot) that I built ran on Linux. We had in house engineers that used it to control the Robots. They started with Windows but they needed open source to write Robot specific programs. This was late 90's, early 2000's. RWI (Real World Interface) was bought by iRobot.
Hey! Thanks, man! Without this guide, my Ninja Foodi was heading to landfill. I followed this tutorial, and luckily, mine had the exact same fault. It must be a common problem. The cable that powers the fan is so weak that it completely snapped as I tried to pull it through. I managed to feed a replacement cable through from the bottom. Please be careful when you take the top apart. That part is tricky. Thanks again... invaluable. And saved me £230!!!
I would be ashamed to give something in for repair that's that filthy, I would have scrubbed it first, shocking, I'm glad you cleaned it before using it. Well done Mick for another great repair. 👏🏻
Some customers just don't care. Where I work, a lot of outdoor tech is brought in for repair. Including spider webs, thick layers of dust, dead bugs and bird poo. In some extreme cases I even refuse to check or repair the items and return them with a small note that they can bring them in again when they clean them first.
What a legend! I was devastated when my foodi broke because I cook everything with it, like alot. Called ninja btw, and they actually are sending a new Foodi! Potentially I am going to have two machines if this fix works! Will show my husband this and hopefully he’s as dilligent as you were finding & fixing the cable! Thank you so much xx
Thanks so much 👍Quite a few people have repaired them after viewing my video so hopefully you can repair yours too 🙂Someone suggested using normal cutlery knives instead of screwdrivers to remove the top part, which is probably the most difficult part of the repair.
I have a 15-1 Ninja with exactly the same fault except it was initially intermittent, I contacted Ninja but they don't repair but said I could have any Ninja cooker at half the price, the unit was not even two years old. I've kept the old cooker with a view to repairing myself and this video is exactly what I was looking for many thanks.
The thermal fuse is sitting directly on the coil of the motor under the plastic wrap, where the marker pen was, so you wouldn't of had to disassemble so far if it had been that. My mate Vince just fixed a fan with the exact same motor where the fuse had gone
I got the same issue. 14 months old. Can you point me to right direction. Where's the fuse located? are we talking about to change the motor? or change thermal fuse? .Looks like whole day jobs for novice like me.
Same issue with the lid! I know it's the same wires because I pushed that spring through the slit in the back of the hinge and it turned it on. Only pushing in one direction fixes it momentarily which is not possible for running it. Bought it Nov 2023 no warranty anymore, now watching this I don't think I can fix it myself😔 @gower1973 could you timestamp what part of the video you're talking about?
Repaired my non working fan issue last week after watching your video.There was no continuity between the blue and red wire.Thanks for saving me £270 for a new one,you saved my christmas also 👍
Brilliant news! and well done. This is one of the reasons why I make videos on all different types of things. Hopefully someone like yourself will need to "fix a ... " one day and hopefully as in this occasion it will be helpful 🙂Hope you have a great 2025!
As others have said, without your help, it would probably have been in the bin. Also like you said, getting the top cover off is a real pain. I had 4 automotive trim tools wedged in down one side to get it to release and even then it still tool ages. My fault was a broken wire in the sleeving as it goes across the hinge causing the 'plug in' error. Opened the sleeving up, pulled on each of the 3 wires from the top and the white one pulled straight out. Soldered new piece of wire in with heatshrink. Back together and now just wait for another one to break I suppose. Again thank you very much as your video is about the only thing on the internet that helps.
Glad you got it sorted 🙂. Someone recently brought one into our local repair cafe, with two faults. Fan not spinning (same red wire) and a sensor fault which turned out to be a black snapped inside sleeving containing a red and white wire. I'm not sure what the sensor was for though, but it the black wire was open circuit. I'm glad that it was useful to you and you managed to repair it. That's one of the main reasons why I started the channel to help others repair broken items 👍
That is a "while you are in there" moment. I would have gone ahead and replaced all those wires with something more robust so I would never have to go back in.
Great video. Nice find & fix. But the original silicone insulated cable will likely have a rating of 170 - 200 Deg C plus it's added heat shrink, where as the pvc insulated cable will only have 70 - 90 Deg C. Covering in heat shrink is unlikely to protect the cable to the temperatures it's going to be exposed to.
We have this exact same Ninja. (Maybe that's why it was on sale for cheap?) So far it's working ok. But good to know that there is a "simple" fix for when the fan stops. That wire looks really thin. Maybe it's aluminium with a copper coating. I think if ours does fail, then I'll replace both fan wires, just in case. 🤔 Thanks Mick for being the pioneer, Mr Fixit to all Ninja users that follow your path. 👍
These companies make millions of dollars off this junk they make. If more people would just fix them instead of buying a new machine, it would probably put a lot of companies out of business. Great repair. I haven't commented for awhile, but I still watch all of your videos.
The sad thing is that they only make this money because people are prepared to buy the stuff. If people demanded better quality then this cheap rubbish would disappear overnight - but the price of the better quality equipment would be significantly higher and no one is prepared to pay it - hence why we're here now.
@@stopthebus I agree, but even though the price is a lot less than something that is quality, we end up spending more money on the cheaper quality items verses just buying something that is made to last. The best part of it all is that Mick@BuyitFixit will have a ton of videos to make and a lot of items to repair. 😁
Your fixes are always enjoyable to watch. Your ability to narrow down the issue is always on point and informative. Thank you for the content each week!
Mine has broken and while I replaced it with the newer speedi I kept it because I suspected that exactly what you found was the culprit. Will be repairing using your video for the boy to take to uni, thank you very much.
@@SpencerIsAFunnyOnion Thanks 👍Yes hopefully this video will help quite a few people with this problem. A few others have already commented that they managed to fix theirs after watching my video 🙂👍
Great repair Mick, diagnosing the fault was the easy part. Dis-assembly and re-assembly is nightmare-ish. Ninja should be made aware of this flaw so thousands of units won't go into the bin. I have a Ninja Coffee Bar one cup coffee maker and it's worked for nearly 15yrs without a problem, the Shark vacuum I have however, I've had to work on myself several times. I swear these things are assembled by robots at the factory, almost impossible to take apart without breaking. Fantastic job you did and the "chips" looked good. Thanks for the video and work, see ya next time.
Ninja doesn't care about what happens to their products after they are sold. It's all about through-put - move as many units as possible. They don't even repair broken ones, they just give the customer another one and the broken one gets shredded. People demanded these goods at bargain prices and this is the state of things now.
Great repair again. Appliances are sometimes the easiest to diagnose and the hardest to fix because of the difficult of getting them apart. And talking about things hard to get into I've got a Thunderbolt 3 dock where one of the TB ports has just fallen off the motherboard (everything else still works). Easy repair right- just open the case and solder the connector back on. But no screws, no obvious way to get into the damn thing at all - tried prying off the front panel and the end panels but nothing budges. Basically unrepairable without destroying the case.
On ours we were getting intermittent lid / slide errors, then a complete Err8. Both the lid sensor cable and the Blue Element cable we fractured in the hinge, nearly 3 hours to fix. Found that using a number of old Credit Cards pushed up into the lid cover helped to release those dammed clips without using a screwdriver which could do some damage.
We got one in our repair cafe the other week with a similar issue. The fan wasn't working but also a sensor problem with a sensor that had 3 wires going to it. The black wire was also broken in that. Someone suggested using dinner knives instead of screwdrivers. Those clips are a pain! That was probably the hardest part of the whole repair. I'm glad you got it sorted 🙂
Hi loved the video thank you. Just to say it may be worth opening up the cable you replaced, as I was once fixing a German model steam engine that had a mains heater to raise the steam, that no longer worked and i thought that the heater had failed. It turned out that a wire from the heater that looked just like yours with the coating on it was hiding a tiny tiny fuse made from glass in my case, it was there to stop the heater from boiling dry, and the fuse had blown, I managed to obtain a replacement fuse and reassembled it all and it worked just fine after, my point is you can never have guessed there was a fuse in the wire cable. Take care enjoy your videos very much.
@@lawrencedriver623 Thanks. I couldn't feel anything in the heat shrink, there was also heat shrink on the blue wire so I think it's just mechanical support.
That would really make sense in a wire for the heater but not at all (contrary) in a cooling-fan. Since when you have no fan, higher risk of overheating other parts and other wires so less safe.
What about if the fan was jammed and the coils overheated, I guess there would be an thermal fuse in the coils perhaps (seen this in old transformer power adapters), but I did say it could be a thermal fuse or "something" possibly an inline fuse, but it was just a guess..
Cheers Alan 👍Yes the hardest part is getting the lid off the thing. We recently had one brought into our local repair cafe, with the exact same wire broken (along with another wire that goes to one of the sensors). Even when I knew how to take it apart it was still a right effort. Someone suggested using around 6 cutlery knives instead of screwdrivers to try and release the clips.
@BuyitFixit I've been repairing electronics since I broke, then repaired my Commodore 64 in the mid 80s as a teenager.. Even after 40 years and all the things I've seen.. I really wouldn't want to do one of those Ninjas.. I take my hat off to you for doing two of them.. 👌👌
Another entertaining video,saving things from land fill is a good thing,your narrative,and style is very entertaining,thanks for the many different videos,long may you keep making them.
I have the 15 in 1 Max model or whatever it is and it has been 2 years of heavy use with no problem so far, have heard lots about various problems though so assuming a repair will be necessary eventually. Good to have this video for reference. Wow though... did he ever clean it!?
You can get piercing probes to do testing on wires you can't access the ends of. Use them selectively on HV wires, especially if accessible to someone handling them.
Looks like r2d2's offspring 😂 I once worked for a contract machine supply company. Many times i arrived on site. Announced im here to fix your Hoover's, and greeted with a blank look. 😂👍🏴
Cheers 👍We haven't had it too bad in Cumbria, it was only really yesterday when I was looking at this (was up until 2AM editing) it was getting quite blowy then, but it normally is where we live.
Great fix Mick, we’ve got the Ninja air fryer 2 draw one we find it excellent for now….. and Mick a great source for the heat resistant cable is an old household iron, all cables will fracture in time if there folded back and forth. 😊
Cheers Gary 👍We've got one of those two draw Ninja's too. It's just slightly to the left of the mixer so probably didn't catch it on the camera. Good shout on the iron 👍
We had heavy rains here in western Cyprus a few days ago, so I guess you just catched up those clouds :) Nice trick with the wire, definitely will use it.
Thanks, I'd imaging a lot. You can search on ebay for "ninja fan" and see what comes up. I think other faults may be associated too like "not heating" is a possibility and also lid or sensor problems.
Agree. The actual pot etc seems to be pretty well made. Here's a link to the broken blender jug (like mine that I showed on the video), 100's of comments, and a 1* review ninjakitchen.co.uk/product/ninja-2-1l-food-processor-jug-with-lid-zid4633KKU800EUK
Thanks 👍Yes indeed, although when I checked when making the video there didn't seem to be a shortage of faulty units on ebay. The same thing can cause a few other faults too as the lid switch, and also a temperature sensor (I think that's what it was) cables follow the same route.
Nice repair, to find the place when the wire was cut we can use a non contact voltage tester , of course we haven't access to a Time Domain Reflectometer 😅.
Vacuums Suck! 🌀🌪 😄🤣😂🙃 Thanks again Mick for your excellent troubleshooting method that teaches us just what we need to know and what to look for. So Awesome! It makes it easy, for me, as electronics "theory" bores me and doesn't help me fix a broken appliance.
I could have tried to cut the heat shrink off and found it, but I showed with the meter that the fault is in that bit. Yes, I think it's just a matter of time before the other wires fail too. Especially the heater wire as that one has more current going through it, so if 1 strand breaks it will put more current on the remaining wires..
@@BuyitFixit It just didn't confirm the fault was at the flex point. I also wonder whether the issue only affects the motor, it possibly being specced with poor wiring. The higher current element wires, if affected similarly, could even cause fire. Was there any thermal protection in the lid? If the element fires without the fan operative I could see the unit frying itself instead of the food.
Thank you for your channel and I like you always try to repair broken things regardless of what they are. Thought I might share this example. Similar problem existed on domestic dishwashers. Some manufacturers fed the dishwashers wiring loom from below the sump,up and into the front panel on route to the control panel. Subsequently, every time the door was opened and closed the wiring loom would flex/bend. This eventually caused the wiring installation to harden and split and the copper wires to ’work harden’ and break. Eventually failure would occur and in some instances electrical damage caused. I learned to NEVER leave a domestic appliance on and not to be present.
@Skaskify Interesting. Thanks for sharing. I've also had the problem a couple of times on car central locking. Usually on the drivers side door where the cables come through the rubber boot at the hinge point 👍
I have never heard catsup called red sauce before.... I was actually waiting for the mayo to come out!!! I was in Switzerland on business and when walking back to the hotel, there was a french fry booth in the median of the roadway. We went over and got a GIANT bag of frys but no catsup. All they has was mayo so we tried it and it's pretty good. Nice fix.... I was guessing it was a wire due to the opening and closing of the lid.
the same thing happened to the early dison DC1 where the cable came out of the top of the handle, the angle was too sharp and caused a break in the lead. that was a simple fix though.
Thanks very much, Mick. It really is a pity that such a relatively simple failure results from such poor engineering practices. We very much appreciate your effort to show us how this can be repaired, nonetheless.
After that major situation many years ago where the smaller Ninja blenders would explode in people's hands and they got all cut up, I've never even considered buying anything Ninja.
Thank you very much for this video. The fan on my 15-in-One is starting to play up a bit and if it turns out to be the same issue then this video will have saved me all that hassle of logically starting (as you did) to get the lid apart if it turns out to not be necessary 👍 P.S. I just need you to find a fix for a Pressure Sensor on an Instant Pot with Ultimate Lid now and we be laughing 😉
@@yooochoooob Thanks 👍not seen one of those, but wonder if the sensor is in the lid and has the same type of wiring arrangement. Could be a similar fault?
Thanks 👍The storm didn't really have much effect up here, apart from when I was recording the video. I was expecting a lot worse, but it was just pretty much normal weather for where we live.
Another bit of kit saved from landfill. Well done. I'd love to know the makeup of the wire core that broke. Proper copper or some dodgy-ville equivalent? Either way a bad bit of design making that wiring bend back and forwards with the lid, not to mention the lack of easy disassembly for repair. Wonder how long before another of those wires breaks?
Thanks 👍Yes I was wondering how long before another breaks too. Seems a very common issue due to the numbers for sale on ebay with the same or similar faults.
Thanks 👍Yes, now I know how to get into it, it should be a lot quicker to repair. I think I'd be able to do it in around 30 mins or so. Other faults will also occur due to the same deign, such as the heater not working, or temperature sensor error, or the lid saying it's not open or closed as all those wires also go the same route.
I did a similar repair on one of these about a year ago. In my case, I traced the open circuit to a thermal fuse wrapped inside the tape around motor coil. I ended up just bypassing and removing it, and the fan worked again. It really is a pretty terrible design though.
I still think they are a real "fad" and the latest craze. I'm a Sparky and my 600mm oven runs at 2000w with a convection oven and can't see what all the fuss is about them. Keep up the great work and love watching you find the way into these minefields.
Thank you 👍I think it's with it being a smaller "oven" it just heats up quicker and uses less power, instead of having to wait 10-15 minutes for the oven to pre-heat first.
Well, for me.... now that I know how to repair it.... for little money when I see one I might just get it and start opening to see if the wires need replacing. Seem to be quite low pricing without working fans.
Great video I have the same ninja touch wood it’s still working the only thing mine does is intermittently flash up is add pot when I’m cooking something but I give it a tap and it resumes cooking I’m so glad you fixed it it’s something to look out for and probably will happen they are great machine and not the cheapest keep up the great work
I had a slow cooker with a sensor in the lid, that stopped working due to fractured cable at the hinge, I think any make appliance that has a hinged lid with cables running through it will eventually fail.
Coincidentally one of these came into our local repair cafe the other day, exactly the same wire was broken going to the fan, but additionally there was another fault with the temperature or pressure sensor, and it was also a broken wire going to that.
Now that was a great fix, Mick 👌🏼 Wow 11 in 1? What else does it do other than air frying things? That reminded me of that joke, you know? about men's shampoo haha. 11 in 1 SHAMPOO CONDITIONER BODY WASH MOUTHWASH CARPET WASH DISH WASH etc. lol
Thanks mate👍, yes I think the 11 in one is more of a gimmick than anything else. Half of the "functions" you would probably never use. 11 cooking functions: Pressure Cook, Air Fry, Grill, Bake, Dehydrate, Sear/Sauté, Steam, Slow Cook, Yoghurt, Steam Air Fry and Steam Bake.
Its better to form hooks before soldering the wires together to provide a better mechanical joint. Just laying the wires together and letting the solder provide the strength could cause the joint to fail.
@BuyitFixit comes from having it hammered 🔨 into as an apprentice first the mechanical joint then solder joint. Can't remember what the soldering standard was at the time late 70's early 80's (EITB) engineering industry training board doing electronics modules. Then as I did not like working 5 days a week ONC, HNC, HND, and finishing up with an 1st class honours degree in electronics. Always said education was a great thing and even better if someone else pays for it. 😁
Short "affordable" lengths of silicone wire are common in the remote control hobby for anybody looking to replace similar ! Great vid and thanks ...now Im hungry too :-)
Thank you so much for sharing. I’ve got as far as trying to take the top off and, no matter the amount of screwdrivers, can’t get it off. Is there a knack or any tips you may have? (Swearing profusely at it to come loose didn’t work either). Thanks again
Someone brought one into our local repair cafe with the same issue. It was a pain to get off too. I did the left side first (as looking from the front) get around 3 screwdrivers in and lever it up a couple of mm. (Remove the handles, and the bit at the back first) and I removed the two screws at the catch too and the two under the top round cover. Then do the same at the right side.. then it should just pop off.
I think you might have slightly over cooked the chips 🍟 but thanks for the video as I’ve one of these Ninja’s and if it goes wrong this will be a great help.
A great job as always, Mick. But just to satisfy my curiosity, could you split that black sleeving on the red wire you removed. I think there'll be a thermal fuse within it. Thanks for sharing with us.
Perseverance has paid off yet again. I have a set of screwdrivers that i use on kitchen consumer units, cooker hoods etc that i put through the dishwasher on a low heat cycle with the rest of my dinner plates, and saves all the hassle of cleaning them. I hate sticky tools 😳
Thanks 👍Could well be. I've not examined it under a microscope or anything. It just seemed very weak for copper when I was stripping it and broke really easily.
I had a few people asking what was in the black heat shrink, and a few people asking that I should have shown the wire failure point. So not to disappoint I've just been over to the shed, cut it open and uploaded a picture which can be found here: i.imgur.com/tGuAg0k.jpeg 🙂
Just shows the quality of the item, If they can't even be bothered to include a fuse; for something which obviously has the potential to fail at the hinge point. Thanks for the picture.
I came here just to ask for the wire autopsy’s
Such a poor design which is not only found in Ninja appliance's but also many others that have come on the market. But not so much, if any, with the older well established brands
With so many years of experience with laptop (and other) ribbon cable failures and improvements there really is no excuse for this slipshod "engineering."
Thanks!
The obstacles to "right to repair" is illustrated in detail. Companies would rather you buy a new one than make it easily serviceable. Meanwhile land-fills are overflowing with fixable appliances. Nicely Done.
@@michelsauve6264 Thanks 👍Totally agree. The hardest part of the repair was getting into the thing.
Totally agree!, wait till windows 10 support ends and all those perfectly good pcs will be thrown out
Already putting Linux on the ones I come across
This is typical of this brand unfortunately. Official spares are almost non existent, and the whole thing is designed for the cheapest possible manufacturing which removes the possibility of disassembly without damage
@@robthomas7232 I Love Linux! ❤🖥 The B21R robots (RWI/iRobot)
that I built ran on Linux. We had in house engineers that used it to control
the Robots. They started with Windows but they needed open source to
write Robot specific programs. This was late 90's, early 2000's. RWI (Real World Interface) was bought by iRobot.
Clearly a design flaw, not only the cable breaking but extraordinary effort required to repair, hats off to you.
Thanks very much 👍🙂
On the contrary, it did exactly what it was designed to do and put up a fight to try and stop it being repaired.
😂😂😂😂
I think the upgraded the wires.
Hey! Thanks, man! Without this guide, my Ninja Foodi was heading to landfill. I followed this tutorial, and luckily, mine had the exact same fault. It must be a common problem. The cable that powers the fan is so weak that it completely snapped as I tried to pull it through. I managed to feed a replacement cable through from the bottom. Please be careful when you take the top apart. That part is tricky. Thanks again... invaluable. And saved me £230!!!
Brilliant news! I'm really glad that people are finding it helpful. Thank you for your feedback 👍
It is awesome to see someone with honor , honesty and integrity like yourself. Thank you for all that you do. Love ya brother !!!
Thank you kindly 👍
I would be ashamed to give something in for repair that's that filthy, I would have scrubbed it first, shocking, I'm glad you cleaned it before using it.
Well done Mick for another great repair. 👏🏻
Cheers mate 👍
Some customers just don't care. Where I work, a lot of outdoor tech is brought in for repair. Including spider webs, thick layers of dust, dead bugs and bird poo. In some extreme cases I even refuse to check or repair the items and return them with a small note that they can bring them in again when they clean them first.
was thinking the same thing, gross
First thing I thought of but didn't like to say...longevity of certain appliances do need cleaning...🤐
He lives on a farm, so probably not the worst looking thing he'd seen that day. :)
I like the flash you see through the relay box when it disconnects at 6:34
Never noticed that, probably the heater relay as that takes a bit of current.
Well spotted! Pausing the video and using the keys, it looks like it's a single frame!
Nicely done Mick, thanks for including the photo of the break in the wire 👍 Shame it is so hard to get to!
Cheers mate 👍🙂
What a legend! I was devastated when my foodi broke because I cook everything with it, like alot. Called ninja btw, and they actually are sending a new Foodi! Potentially I am going to have two machines if this fix works! Will show my husband this and hopefully he’s as dilligent as you were finding & fixing the cable! Thank you so much xx
Thanks so much 👍Quite a few people have repaired them after viewing my video so hopefully you can repair yours too 🙂Someone suggested using normal cutlery knives instead of screwdrivers to remove the top part, which is probably the most difficult part of the repair.
I have a 15-1 Ninja with exactly the same fault except it was initially intermittent, I contacted Ninja but they don't repair but said I could have any Ninja cooker at half the price, the unit was not even two years old. I've kept the old cooker with a view to repairing myself and this video is exactly what I was looking for many thanks.
You're very welcome. Quite a few people have successfully repaired their devices after seeing this 👍
The thermal fuse is sitting directly on the coil of the motor under the plastic wrap, where the marker pen was, so you wouldn't of had to disassemble so far if it had been that. My mate Vince just fixed a fan with the exact same motor where the fuse had gone
@@gower1973 Interesting, thanks for sharing 👍
I got the same issue. 14 months old. Can you point me to right direction. Where's the fuse located? are we talking about to change the motor? or change thermal fuse? .Looks like whole day jobs for novice like me.
Same issue with the lid! I know it's the same wires because I pushed that spring through the slit in the back of the hinge and it turned it on. Only pushing in one direction fixes it momentarily which is not possible for running it. Bought it Nov 2023 no warranty anymore, now watching this I don't think I can fix it myself😔 @gower1973 could you timestamp what part of the video you're talking about?
Repaired my non working fan issue last week after watching your video.There was no continuity between the blue and red wire.Thanks for saving me £270 for a new one,you saved my christmas also 👍
Brilliant news! and well done. This is one of the reasons why I make videos on all different types of things. Hopefully someone like yourself will need to "fix a ... " one day and hopefully as in this occasion it will be helpful 🙂Hope you have a great 2025!
As others have said, without your help, it would probably have been in the bin. Also like you said, getting the top cover off is a real pain. I had 4 automotive trim tools wedged in down one side to get it to release and even then it still tool ages.
My fault was a broken wire in the sleeving as it goes across the hinge causing the 'plug in' error. Opened the sleeving up, pulled on each of the 3 wires from the top and the white one pulled straight out. Soldered new piece of wire in with heatshrink. Back together and now just wait for another one to break I suppose.
Again thank you very much as your video is about the only thing on the internet that helps.
try using old credit cards pushed strategically up under the lid cover to release those pesky retaining clips.
Glad you got it sorted 🙂. Someone recently brought one into our local repair cafe, with two faults. Fan not spinning (same red wire) and a sensor fault which turned out to be a black snapped inside sleeving containing a red and white wire. I'm not sure what the sensor was for though, but it the black wire was open circuit. I'm glad that it was useful to you and you managed to repair it. That's one of the main reasons why I started the channel to help others repair broken items 👍
That is a "while you are in there" moment.
I would have gone ahead and replaced all those wires with something more robust so I would never have to go back in.
I’m looking at mine sat there in the kitchen thinking, when are you going to break ya bugger !!! 👍
Yep, unfortunately I think it's just a matter of time. You can now see the weakness 😢
Hope your Ninja wasn't offended at you swearing at it! It made me chuckle.
@suejames3208 😂😂😂😂👍
Great video. Nice find & fix. But the original silicone insulated cable will likely have a rating of 170 - 200 Deg C plus it's added heat shrink, where as the pvc insulated cable will only have 70 - 90 Deg C. Covering in heat shrink is unlikely to protect the cable to the temperatures it's going to be exposed to.
@@ashleybignell2366 Yes, not ideal. Best to use proper heat resistant cable 👍
We have this exact same Ninja. (Maybe that's why it was on sale for cheap?) So far it's working ok. But good to know that there is a "simple" fix for when the fan stops. That wire looks really thin. Maybe it's aluminium with a copper coating. I think if ours does fail, then I'll replace both fan wires, just in case. 🤔 Thanks Mick for being the pioneer, Mr Fixit to all Ninja users that follow your path. 👍
Thanks Tim 👍
These companies make millions of dollars off this junk they make. If more people would just fix them instead of buying a new machine, it would probably put a lot of companies out of business. Great repair. I haven't commented for awhile, but I still watch all of your videos.
Cheers Ron 👍 Yes agree 🙂
The sad thing is that they only make this money because people are prepared to buy the stuff. If people demanded better quality then this cheap rubbish would disappear overnight - but the price of the better quality equipment would be significantly higher and no one is prepared to pay it - hence why we're here now.
@@stopthebus I agree, but even though the price is a lot less than something that is quality, we end up spending more money on the cheaper quality items verses just buying something that is made to last. The best part of it all is that Mick@BuyitFixit will have a ton of videos to make and a lot of items to repair. 😁
Nice repair, that thing looks much better once you got your hands on it. Great job/video, as always.
Paul, USA!!!
Cheers Paul 👍
Interesting, thanks. We have a Ninja ON4000. Hinge looks similar. I already have PTFE insulated wire in stock so I'm prepared now, thanks to you!
@@manolisgledsodakis873 Cheers 👍
Hope you added a cleaning charge🤣🤣🤣🤣 Great vid
😂😂😂Thanks 👍
Loved the 'testing' at the end 🤣🤣🤣🤣🍟🍟
😂😂😂Cheers 👍I thought it was a nice way to finish the video 🙂
Your fixes are always enjoyable to watch. Your ability to narrow down the issue is always on point and informative. Thank you for the content each week!
Thanks to you too for your support 👍
Mine has broken and while I replaced it with the newer speedi I kept it because I suspected that exactly what you found was the culprit. Will be repairing using your video for the boy to take to uni, thank you very much.
@@SpencerIsAFunnyOnion Thanks 👍Yes hopefully this video will help quite a few people with this problem. A few others have already commented that they managed to fix theirs after watching my video 🙂👍
Great repair Mick, diagnosing the fault was the easy part. Dis-assembly and re-assembly is nightmare-ish. Ninja should be made aware of this flaw so thousands of units won't go into the bin. I have a Ninja Coffee Bar one cup coffee maker and it's worked for nearly 15yrs without a problem, the Shark vacuum I have however, I've had to work on myself several times. I swear these things are assembled by robots at the factory, almost impossible to take apart without breaking. Fantastic job you did and the "chips" looked good. Thanks for the video and work, see ya next time.
@@terrym1065 Cheers Terry, yes I also know about disassembly of those shark vacuums, another nightmare 😂😂
Unfortunately it's not a flaw but a feature, at least on Ninja's part.
Ninja doesn't care about what happens to their products after they are sold. It's all about through-put - move as many units as possible. They don't even repair broken ones, they just give the customer another one and the broken one gets shredded. People demanded these goods at bargain prices and this is the state of things now.
Great repair again. Appliances are sometimes the easiest to diagnose and the hardest to fix because of the difficult of getting them apart. And talking about things hard to get into I've got a Thunderbolt 3 dock where one of the TB ports has just fallen off the motherboard (everything else still works). Easy repair right- just open the case and solder the connector back on. But no screws, no obvious way to get into the damn thing at all - tried prying off the front panel and the end panels but nothing budges. Basically unrepairable without destroying the case.
Thanks 👍Agree, sometimes I spend more time trying to get the thing open, or getting access the blown part than the actual repair.
Great trail-blazing fix thank you! Those chips....what a finale, yum yum.
Thank you 🙂👍
it probably wouldn't happen if the cable was cooper and not aluminium. Great fix as usual!
Thanks 👍
That metal roof does let you know when its raining hard. Your sheep dog was out in the rain protecting the flock. Good boy, here’s some chips for you.
😂😂😂👍
Nice one, used the pull wire trick myself earlier today on a piece of mains going thru a roof void.
Cheers 👍Nice one, yes it comes in handy 🙂
On ours we were getting intermittent lid / slide errors, then a complete Err8. Both the lid sensor cable and the Blue Element cable we fractured in the hinge, nearly 3 hours to fix. Found that using a number of old Credit Cards pushed up into the lid cover helped to release those dammed clips without using a screwdriver which could do some damage.
We got one in our repair cafe the other week with a similar issue. The fan wasn't working but also a sensor problem with a sensor that had 3 wires going to it. The black wire was also broken in that. Someone suggested using dinner knives instead of screwdrivers. Those clips are a pain! That was probably the hardest part of the whole repair. I'm glad you got it sorted 🙂
Hi loved the video thank you. Just to say it may be worth opening up the cable you replaced, as I was once fixing a German model steam engine that had a mains heater to raise the steam, that no longer worked and i thought that the heater had failed. It turned out that a wire from the heater that looked just like yours with the coating on it was hiding a tiny tiny fuse made from glass in my case, it was there to stop the heater from boiling dry, and the fuse had blown, I managed to obtain a replacement fuse and reassembled it all and it worked just fine after, my point is you can never have guessed there was a fuse in the wire cable. Take care enjoy your videos very much.
@@lawrencedriver623 Thanks. I couldn't feel anything in the heat shrink, there was also heat shrink on the blue wire so I think it's just mechanical support.
That would really make sense in a wire for the heater but not at all (contrary) in a cooling-fan. Since when you have no fan, higher risk of overheating other parts and other wires so less safe.
What about if the fan was jammed and the coils overheated, I guess there would be an thermal fuse in the coils perhaps (seen this in old transformer power adapters), but I did say it could be a thermal fuse or "something" possibly an inline fuse, but it was just a guess..
This looks a nightmare to repair. Selfishly, I'm glad you got this one done as I've got the 15 in 1 version of this 🤣😂🤣😂
Cheers Alan 👍Yes the hardest part is getting the lid off the thing. We recently had one brought into our local repair cafe, with the exact same wire broken (along with another wire that goes to one of the sensors). Even when I knew how to take it apart it was still a right effort. Someone suggested using around 6 cutlery knives instead of screwdrivers to try and release the clips.
@BuyitFixit I've been repairing electronics since I broke, then repaired my Commodore 64 in the mid 80s as a teenager.. Even after 40 years and all the things I've seen.. I really wouldn't want to do one of those Ninjas.. I take my hat off to you for doing two of them.. 👌👌
@alanbenson1505 😂😂Thanks mate 👍
Great repair as always, reminds me of window wiper on hatchback cars failing, because of wire break from opening and closing usually near the hinge.
Thanks 👍Yes indeed. I've also had the same with central locking especially on the drivers door...
Wires through a hinge! What clever clogs thought that would be a durable design. Well done in having the patience to get it apart and fix it.
Thank you 👍
Oh damm I have that exact model, well guess a repair is in my future. Thanks for showing us how to.
No problem 👍
Smart tricks soldering the old wire with new and then pull it through! Love your videos🤩
@@plexi-k3d Thanks 👍
Another entertaining video,saving things from land fill is a good thing,your narrative,and style is very entertaining,thanks for the many different videos,long may you keep making them.
Thank you very much 👍🙂
Well done Mick, a brilliant fix as usual 😀
Thanks Mike👍
Growing up in Australia we called it Hoovering as well. Not any more though. We had Hoover uprights.
Glad we're not the only ones 🙃👍
Had the exact same problem and repaired using your disassembly tips. Many thanks.
Brilliant! Well done John! 👍🙂
Superb fix - well done!
Thanks very much Keith 👍
I have the 15 in 1 Max model or whatever it is and it has been 2 years of heavy use with no problem so far, have heard lots about various problems though so assuming a repair will be necessary eventually. Good to have this video for reference.
Wow though... did he ever clean it!?
Nice 👍We have the two drawer one, had that a couple of years and it's been file. I just sprayed it with oven cleaner and left it for 15 mins... 😂😂😂😂
You can get piercing probes to do testing on wires you can't access the ends of. Use them selectively on HV wires, especially if accessible to someone handling them.
Thanks for the tip 👍
Looks like r2d2's offspring 😂
I once worked for a contract machine supply company. Many times i arrived on site. Announced im here to fix your Hoover's, and greeted with a blank look. 😂👍🏴
😂😂😂😂😂👍
the weather here on anglesey in wales is mental at the moment . not what i would call kite flying weather 😂🤣 nice job 👍👍
Cheers 👍We haven't had it too bad in Cumbria, it was only really yesterday when I was looking at this (was up until 2AM editing) it was getting quite blowy then, but it normally is where we live.
Great fix Mick, we’ve got the Ninja air fryer 2 draw one we find it excellent for now….. and Mick a great source for the heat resistant cable is an old household iron, all cables will fracture in time if there folded back and forth. 😊
Cheers Gary 👍We've got one of those two draw Ninja's too. It's just slightly to the left of the mixer so probably didn't catch it on the camera. Good shout on the iron 👍
We had heavy rains here in western Cyprus a few days ago, so I guess you just catched up those clouds :) Nice trick with the wire, definitely will use it.
Thanks 👍🙂
I wonder how many of those fryers have exactly the same fault ? Excellent diagnostic and repair! Always enjoy your videos, keep em coming!!
Thanks, I'd imaging a lot. You can search on ebay for "ninja fan" and see what comes up. I think other faults may be associated too like "not heating" is a possibility and also lid or sensor problems.
Love the final test and the ‘red sauce’ comment… that locates you to a certain part of the Uk.
😂😂😂Thanks 👍
What's great about it the Job didn't defeat you. Again brilliant job.
Thanks mate 👍😊
Yeahp, you really deserve enjoying those chips...!!!! Great work.
@@lmwlmw4468 Thanks 👍It makes a change from the usual cooking microchips with the hot air station 😂😂😂
I couldn't taste the chips but they looked good. Nice work!
Thank you 👍🙂
Really useful to see as it’s a lesson in what not to buy - looks like a cheap design lots of horrible plastic clips and poor quality cable.
Agree. The actual pot etc seems to be pretty well made. Here's a link to the broken blender jug (like mine that I showed on the video), 100's of comments, and a 1* review ninjakitchen.co.uk/product/ninja-2-1l-food-processor-jug-with-lid-zid4633KKU800EUK
Love this fix - queue lots of visitors to ebay looking for faulty ones lol
Thanks 👍Yes indeed, although when I checked when making the video there didn't seem to be a shortage of faulty units on ebay. The same thing can cause a few other faults too as the lid switch, and also a temperature sensor (I think that's what it was) cables follow the same route.
I always enjoy these Cooking with Mick episodes ;)
😂😂😂Me too 👍
No english chips without vinegar!
😂
Great repair, such a simple thing liie a broken wire can turn a thing into a brick...
👍👍👍
😂😂Thanks 👍🙂
Nice repair, to find the place when the wire was cut we can use a non contact voltage tester , of course we haven't access to a Time Domain Reflectometer 😅.
@@electronics-by-practice Good suggestions 👍🙂
This must be your shortest video 😂 love the fix! Thanks for all the educational content, i really enjoy it
Thanks very much 👍
Vacuums Suck! 🌀🌪 😄🤣😂🙃 Thanks again Mick for your excellent troubleshooting
method that teaches us just what we need to know and what to look for. So Awesome! It
makes it easy, for me, as electronics "theory" bores me and doesn't help me fix a broken
appliance.
Thanks mate 👍Yes, I'm more of a practical hands on rather than theory guy 😂😂
Hi the button on the top is a pressure lock button 😁
Ah thanks for that 👍
A great fix! well done...
Thanks 👍
Would've liked to see the actual break point in the wire. Also whether it was aluminium. Fair chance the neutral (blue) will fail next too?
I could have tried to cut the heat shrink off and found it, but I showed with the meter that the fault is in that bit. Yes, I think it's just a matter of time before the other wires fail too. Especially the heater wire as that one has more current going through it, so if 1 strand breaks it will put more current on the remaining wires..
@@BuyitFixit It just didn't confirm the fault was at the flex point. I also wonder whether the issue only affects the motor, it possibly being specced with poor wiring. The higher current element wires, if affected similarly, could even cause fire. Was there any thermal protection in the lid? If the element fires without the fan operative I could see the unit frying itself instead of the food.
@@UCCLdIk6R5ECGtaGm7oqO-TQ See pinned comment for picture 👍
Thank you for your channel and I like you always try to repair broken things regardless of what they are.
Thought I might share this example.
Similar problem existed on domestic dishwashers.
Some manufacturers fed the dishwashers wiring loom from below the sump,up and into the front panel on route to the control panel. Subsequently, every time the door was opened and closed the wiring loom would flex/bend. This eventually caused the wiring installation to harden and split and the copper wires to ’work harden’ and break.
Eventually failure would occur and in some instances electrical damage caused.
I learned to NEVER leave a domestic appliance on and not to be present.
@Skaskify Interesting. Thanks for sharing. I've also had the problem a couple of times on car central locking. Usually on the drivers side door where the cables come through the rubber boot at the hinge point 👍
I have never heard catsup called red sauce before.... I was actually waiting for the mayo to come out!!! I was in Switzerland on business and when walking back to the hotel, there was a french fry booth in the median of the roadway. We went over and got a GIANT bag of frys but no catsup. All they has was mayo so we tried it and it's pretty good. Nice fix.... I was guessing it was a wire due to the opening and closing of the lid.
Thanks 👍Yes sometimes I have mayo too. Ketchup or "red sauce", as we have "brown sauce" too.
You're amateurs when it comes to sauce on the fries. We Dutchies use mayo, ketchup, unions and peanut sauce... 😂😂
I have same problem on my 16 month 15 in one,will follow your steps.many thanks for upload 👍👌
You're very welcome. Hopefully you'll be able to repair it 👍
Yes done great stuff works perfect👍
the same thing happened to the early dison DC1 where the cable came out of the top of the handle, the angle was too sharp and caused a break in the lead. that was a simple fix though.
Interesting. Thanks for sharing 👍
Thanks very much, Mick. It really is a pity that such a relatively simple failure results from such poor engineering practices. We very much appreciate your effort to show us how this can be repaired, nonetheless.
Thanks Bruce 👍
After that major situation many years ago where the smaller Ninja blenders would explode in people's hands and they got all cut up, I've never even considered buying anything Ninja.
Interesting. I'd not heard about that. Thanks for sharing 👍
Thank you very much for this video. The fan on my 15-in-One is starting to play up a bit and if it turns out to be the same issue then this video will have saved me all that hassle of logically starting (as you did) to get the lid apart if it turns out to not be necessary 👍
P.S. I just need you to find a fix for a Pressure Sensor on an Instant Pot with Ultimate Lid now and we be laughing 😉
@@yooochoooob Thanks 👍not seen one of those, but wonder if the sensor is in the lid and has the same type of wiring arrangement. Could be a similar fault?
Your testing made me hungry! Good fix.
😂😂😂Thanks 👍
Great fix again!
Hope the evil Darragh (storm) didn't damage anything to you or inside/outside your house.
Thanks 👍The storm didn't really have much effect up here, apart from when I was recording the video. I was expecting a lot worse, but it was just pretty much normal weather for where we live.
Another bit of kit saved from landfill. Well done. I'd love to know the makeup of the wire core that broke. Proper copper or some dodgy-ville equivalent? Either way a bad bit of design making that wiring bend back and forwards with the lid, not to mention the lack of easy disassembly for repair. Wonder how long before another of those wires breaks?
Thanks 👍Yes I was wondering how long before another breaks too. Seems a very common issue due to the numbers for sale on ebay with the same or similar faults.
Really enjoyable to watch..if you had to do the same fix again would you do anything different?
Thanks 👍Yes, now I know how to get into it, it should be a lot quicker to repair. I think I'd be able to do it in around 30 mins or so. Other faults will also occur due to the same deign, such as the heater not working, or temperature sensor error, or the lid saying it's not open or closed as all those wires also go the same route.
@BuyitFixit yeah I have done fixes on these and it ain't the easiest to get into, cheers for the reply.
I did a similar repair on one of these about a year ago. In my case, I traced the open circuit to a thermal fuse wrapped inside the tape around motor coil. I ended up just bypassing and removing it, and the fan worked again. It really is a pretty terrible design though.
Nice one 👍Thanks for sharing 🙂
I still think they are a real "fad" and the latest craze. I'm a Sparky and my 600mm oven runs at 2000w with a convection oven and can't see what all the fuss is about them. Keep up the great work and love watching you find the way into these minefields.
Thank you 👍I think it's with it being a smaller "oven" it just heats up quicker and uses less power, instead of having to wait 10-15 minutes for the oven to pre-heat first.
At 13:33 of the video, I calling a thermal fuse embedded within the motor winding??
nice side of chips is def called for after this repair, cheers
Yes, it's slightly different from the chips I'm usually heating up on the channel 😂😂😂
Thank you,solve the problem.I fit in about 5 dining knifes around,and plastic slip off easily.
Nice! Well done. Good idea with the knives 👏👏👏
Great flaw discovery. I will absolutely avoid this Ninja product. Thanks for sharing.
@@canyondan Thanks 👍
Well, for me.... now that I know how to repair it.... for little money when I see one I might just get it and start opening to see if the wires need replacing. Seem to be quite low pricing without working fans.
@elvinhaak Yes, as long as it's not filthy 😂😂😂
Great video I have the same ninja touch wood it’s still working the only thing mine does is intermittently flash up is add pot when I’m cooking something but I give it a tap and it resumes cooking I’m so glad you fixed it it’s something to look out for and probably will happen they are great machine and not the cheapest keep up the great work
Thanks, I think the add pot sensor might be in the base of the unit, so pretty easy to get to.
Beautiful wire fusing job... You have a ton of patience; way more than I do ... LOL Great video my friend.
@@fredwooding599 Cheers Fred 👍
Thanks for this, I am sure this will come up and save me a fortune in time and money in due course!
@@dalexdba1 You're very welcome 👍🙂
I had a slow cooker with a sensor in the lid, that stopped working due to fractured cable at the hinge, I think any make appliance that has a hinged lid with cables running through it will eventually fail.
Coincidentally one of these came into our local repair cafe the other day, exactly the same wire was broken going to the fan, but additionally there was another fault with the temperature or pressure sensor, and it was also a broken wire going to that.
Now that was a great fix, Mick 👌🏼
Wow 11 in 1? What else does it do other than air frying things?
That reminded me of that joke, you know? about men's shampoo haha.
11 in 1
SHAMPOO
CONDITIONER
BODY WASH
MOUTHWASH
CARPET WASH
DISH WASH
etc. lol
Thanks mate👍, yes I think the 11 in one is more of a gimmick than anything else. Half of the "functions" you would probably never use.
11 cooking functions: Pressure Cook, Air Fry, Grill, Bake, Dehydrate, Sear/Sauté, Steam, Slow Cook, Yoghurt, Steam Air Fry and Steam Bake.
enjoy your chips excellent job looked like a real bar steward of a job well done
Thanks 👍
Its better to form hooks before soldering the wires together to provide a better mechanical joint. Just laying the wires together and letting the solder provide the strength could cause the joint to fail.
Good tip 👍
@BuyitFixit comes from having it hammered 🔨 into as an apprentice first the mechanical joint then solder joint. Can't remember what the soldering standard was at the time late 70's early 80's (EITB) engineering industry training board doing electronics modules. Then as I did not like working 5 days a week ONC, HNC, HND, and finishing up with an 1st class honours degree in electronics. Always said education was a great thing and even better if someone else pays for it. 😁
Short "affordable" lengths of silicone wire are common in the remote control hobby for anybody looking to replace similar ! Great vid and thanks ...now Im hungry too :-)
Cheers, and thanks for the tip! 👍
Thank you so much for sharing. I’ve got as far as trying to take the top off and, no matter the amount of screwdrivers, can’t get it off. Is there a knack or any tips you may have? (Swearing profusely at it to come loose didn’t work either). Thanks again
Someone brought one into our local repair cafe with the same issue. It was a pain to get off too. I did the left side first (as looking from the front) get around 3 screwdrivers in and lever it up a couple of mm. (Remove the handles, and the bit at the back first) and I removed the two screws at the catch too and the two under the top round cover. Then do the same at the right side.. then it should just pop off.
I think you might have slightly over cooked the chips 🍟 but thanks for the video as I’ve one of these Ninja’s and if it goes wrong this will be a great help.
@@wobby1516 Thanks, yes I think the temperature was slightly high, they were still quite edible though 🙂👍
Love the video snd love my ninja 15-1. Now i know how to repair it when it fails! Thank you!
Thanks 👍and you're very welcome 🙂
Nice repair and fault find. So the red wire break is from continued open/close of lid? Almost needs added stain relief to compensate for it.
Thanks 👍Yes, I think they did try with the spring and the added heat shrink.
I take from this "Don't buy a Ninja anything". Thanks for a well made video (unlike the ninja).
Thanks 👍Yes, not the best built stuff..
Was waiting for you to disect that bit of wire and find break lol
I think the heat shrink was glued onto it, so it would have been a bit of a pain to find it. It's in that bit 'somewhere' 😂😂
you've won me over completely: chips,salt AND vinegar!
😂😂😂😂👍
can't believe they didn't clean it before bringing it to you.....some people are unbelievable !
😂😂😂
great repair as always mick im watching in the philippines but im from your neck of the woods ...chips with red sauce and viniga carnt beat it man ..
Thanks 👍 😂😂😂Nice one, yes indeed 🙂
A great job as always, Mick. But just to satisfy my curiosity, could you split that black sleeving on the red wire you removed. I think there'll be a thermal fuse within it. Thanks for sharing with us.
Cheers Brian 👍. I'll add this as the picture as a pinned comment too: i.imgur.com/tGuAg0k.jpeg
Perseverance has paid off yet again. I have a set of screwdrivers that i use on kitchen consumer units, cooker hoods etc that i put through the dishwasher on a low heat cycle with the rest of my dinner plates, and saves all the hassle of cleaning them.
I hate sticky tools 😳
but the question is.. are they dishwasher safe? 😂😂😂😂
@ 😂😂😂 good question😂
Very informative & useful, thanks for sharing mate, liked & subscribed 👍👍👍👍👍
@@leedsguyuk Thanks and welcome aboard. Please check out some of my other work. I try to repair pretty much anything and everything 🙂👍
Heya, nice repair hope it will stay with this 1 cable
Yes, but it's only a matter of time until another fails, but unless you replace all of them... 🤷♂️
Just another thought mate? Wonder if it was a finest chineseium plated ally cable? Obviously not made for the job, Great work as usual 👍
Thanks 👍Could well be. I've not examined it under a microscope or anything. It just seemed very weak for copper when I was stripping it and broke really easily.