Great video! I would like to add some great advice! 1. Always always loosen the oil filter first before draining the engine oil especially if you weren’t the last person to change it or if the dealer has done it for you recently, it will more than likely have been over torqued. Nothing sucks more than having to put in new oil with an old filter that you couldn’t remove just to get it to the shop to get it removed. There’s a lot of ways to remove them but sometimes they are almost welded on there. 2. I’m sure you did this but I didn’t see it in the video, always do an oil filter leak check after starting the engine. Although rare, the o rings for these filters can be defective and cause small leaks. Rev the engine for about 10 seconds, grab your light and just double check that oil filter.
Great advice. I had to start changing my oil and last mechanic put the filter on so tight I had to take it to a mechanic to use a breaker bar since I did not own one. Had to put the oil back in the car to drive it to the mechanic. Why do they put these filters on so damn tight as it is not necessary?
@@markg4561because even most mechanics feel the “ I don’t need no stinkin torque wrench “ belief. The torque numbers for the oil filter housing and the oil filter housing drain plug aren’t very tight at all. I used to have my oil changed at the dealership because Toyota had a $69 oil change ( plus tax ) special. I can’t buy the oil, the filter and do it myself ( I’ve changed oil on all my vehicles over 150 times at least ) for much less than that and they topped up the windshield wash etc. Even when Toyota “ upped “ the price to $99 plus tax I went to them. Then one time a few years ago the bill was $175. I paid and actually went back for the next change as well. That one was over $250 ( they changed the cabin air filter spas well even though I do that myself ). I always keep my “ invoice “ and at this point I looked at the $250 one. That’s when I noticed a charge of $43 for an “ oil filter assembly “ so I looked at the other invoice in the glove box and there was another $43 oil filter assembly. The Dealership’s “ Toyota Tech “ had over torqued the oil filter housing and busted it taking it off the next time, TWICE!!! Also they charged me for something they broke because of something they had over torqued. I’ve done the last 3 changes myself without damaging the plastic housing and without any leaks. We used to have a Sienna for 7 years before we got the Highlander and I did those oil changes myself after the first 4 “ included “ oil changes.
Having been a mechanic for 50 years, let me give you a tip on changing oil. Always loosen the oil filer first. If you can’t get the old filter off, and have to take it somewhere that has the tools to do so, that way you won’t be running your brand new oil thru the old filter.
Really good tip, thank you for sharing your wisdom. Funny enough, I usually check the filter by hand first to see if I will need a tool or not. But I never thought to film it or actually confirm if it's worst-case stuck. I'll need to think about how to incorporate this into my videos. Thanks again!
Much appreciated! I am so glad you found the video helpful. Thank you for the kind gesture, and if you are based in the USA like me, I hope you had a fantastic Thanksgiving weekend!
Man, right on the money, thank you! I did cheap out on the filter wrench, and I can confirm: it’s worth paying more for the part you recommended, not the cheapo stuff I got.
Hi Alan, your kind words bring me great joy. The goal of my channel is to up the quality level of DIY guides for car maintenance. Its great to hear from folks like you to let me know I'm taking steps in the right direction. Thanks for taking the time to watch and for leaving this comment. 🙏
Awesome, I hope it serves you well. It really is the best and I've definitely gotten my money's worth out of it. Thanks so much for taking the time to both watch and comment, it means a lot!
Yes, that's a great call-out. One can never be too safe. I'll make sure to show or mention that in videos moving forward too. Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment!
Thank you for the video. Gunna be bold and admit even though I’ve been doing oil changes since I was a child, I hadn’t ever replaced a filter like these before and I messed up that process last time a changed the oil thinking to myself how hard can it be. About $100 later costing me a service visit and all the supplies I had originally purchased to do it myself, I had to take my highlander in to the dealership and to get it properly done because I broke the housing. Did it right this time thanks to the video.
To be fair to you, the Toyota cartridge style housings do seem to always be over-tightened. I'm sure service techs are not torquing to spec, but I'm also suspicious the way the housing is designed (and it being plastic) lends itself to seizing up between every oil change. We shouldn't have to have special tools to remove the housing and I'm sorry you got unlucky on your first attempt. Thanks for sharing your story and for the kind words. I'm glad my video helped the second time around!
Your video is great! I have a question. I've never dealt with a filter housing design. why can't the housing just be pulled off and the new filter and large O-ring be replaced, with out doing the drain plug for the housing? I get I must be missing something, but it just looks like something extra. My real thought is why take the chance in breaking something?
Hi Texas Mud (great name btw), excellent question and you sound like a person used to spin-on oil filters. If you remove the housing without draining, it'll behave exactly like a spin-on where it's a little messy but you'll get the job done faster. The OEM filter kit does come with the plastic drain tool though, so if you felt inclined to keep things tidy, it's there for you. Much appreciate the comment and thank you for taking the time to watch.
I am one of those who does NOT mess with the drain plug - in my experience, shoving that plastic drain thing in makes just about as much mess as just unscrewing the whole filter. It's not very easy to push the drain tube in, and it seems to make more of a mess, plus you have the oily plastic thing to deal with. Your mileage may vary, as they say! :)
@@Aloha_Alan I think it's totally legitimate to not use the draining tool. I know the Toyota techs at the dealer don't bother because time is money and it's way faster to just make a little mess and move on. Thanks for the comment!
Im just in the middle of the oil change and happened to me what others have mentioned... the oil filter is too tighten. i couldn't remove it with a regular 8" wrench and cheap filter oil wrench. now makes complete sense to get a 16" or even a 24" breaker bar and a good oil filter wrench. I will get those tools and try again... for now at least the oil is clean. Why too tight if not needed? i am convinced that me workshop does on purpose to discourage DIY...
If you have a combo wrench set, you can loop the box end over your ratchet handle and use it as a pseudo-breaker bar. Sometimes just a little more leverage is all you need. Best of luck and let me know how it goes.
@@mldiy I just ordered the filter wrench you recommended. I'm thinking this could be big difference because allows twisting the filter cover uniformly, probably requiring less torque, stressing the filter cover less. I'll post results 👍🙂
@@aureliomega3268 Best of luck and let me know the results. The motivx oil cap wrench will definitely grip things better. You will at least feel more comfortable pulling/pushing with more force.
@@mldiy hey, finally took the courage of trying again to remove the filter, with the new wrench. I didn't buy the breaker bar, hoping that only the new and more robust socket could make the difference.... and it worked! with my regular 8in ratchet was good enough as i suspected. the thing is that the filter wrench you suggested makes better contact and around all circumference of the filter. the cheap filter wrench that i was using only makes contact in the two taps, making lot harder to remove, and probably also unreliable to tight again back. So good to go for doing my own oil changes from now and on 😉 Thanks for the recommendation and your video!
Nailed it, dude. Been wrenching for 15 years, but it never hurts to watch a DIY video just in case something special pops out on a first change. Also, what's holding the camera?! ;)
Always appreciate the kind words from experienced folks! I have one of those flexible tripods and I'm pretty sure I face-huggered myself to get the shot. Thanks again for taking the time to watch, comment and subscribe (totally alright if you didn't but wanted to say thanks if you did)!
Thanks for the video! My first Toyota is a 2016 Highlander we got used in 2020. Great SUV so far. I do my own oil changes and it requires 6.4 qts. oil but is not AWD and the engine code on the hood sticker says 2GR-FE V6 3.5L. Don't know why my engine requires more oil than your 2017?
Hi there, appreciate you taking the time to comment. Apparently I am learning something new today. It looks like Toyota did a mid-model refresh in 2017 and switched from the 2GR-FE engine to the 2GR-FKS engine. Your engine, i confirmed, does require 6.4 qts instead of the newer model's 5.8 qts. And maybe you can confirm for me, besides the difference in oil capacity, it looks like the 2016 follows virtually the same steps to change the oil? Thanks for your help and your time, I will update my video's description to be more accurate with your help!
@@24GirlPanda Thanks for confirming! I updated the description based on your feedback just to help make it clearer for people watching in the future. Much appreciated!
Quick question: Do you know if the process you showed is any different for a HYBRID model? (I have a 2019 Highlander Hybrid.) Thanks for the great information-very clear and easy to follow.
Hi Fred, yes, I believe in the 3rd gen Highlander they just put a hybrid system along side the 3.5L V6. I haven't done one personally, so I recommend just taking a quick look underneath your car and seeing if the oil filter housing looks the same. If so, I think you'll be good to use the parts list in my video. Please update me if you do confirm, I'd like to be 100% sure for the next person. Thanks for your subscribe and like as well!
@@mldiy Thanks for the info, and YES, I can confirm that this is exactly the same for the Hybrid model. Just finished my first oil change, and your video made it very easy. Thanks again. Subscribed.
What drive size is the wrench you used to torque the drain bolt? Of corse, all my torque wrenches set at 20 lbs for the lowest setting, so I'm going to have to go buy a wrench with a torque setting of 10 lbs. I just need to know if the drive is 3/8 or 1/2 inch.
Hi, all the specs are in the video description, so bookmark/save the video and always have an easy reference for next time. It's Oil pan drain plug: 30 lb-ft Oil filter housing: 18 lb-ft Oil filter housing plug: 10 lb-ft To save you some money, just torque the oil an drain bolt with the torque wrench you already have, then hand tighted the housing, and make sure the filter housing plug doesn't turn the housing when you tighten it.
@mldiy those are the foot-pounds specs that you set the tourqe wrenches to. I'm asking for the wrench's DRIVE size for the oil filter housing plug that takes 10lb-ft. The drive is that square knob part of the wrench that you'd press into the opening on the housing plug or the opening on a socket. They are usually either 1/4 inch, 3/8 inch or 1/2 inch. I'm assuming it's 3/8 because 1/4 is really small and 1/2 is usually bigger like the size on a breaker bar for wheel nuts. Thanks.
It's 3/8 drive square but I'm also trying to to save you 20 bucks and saying don't buy a torque wrench (unless you just really want one, of course). Just do the drain plug at 30 ft-lbs and the housing at 20 ft-lbs. It won't be that overtight for the next time. Or you can try to get a feel right before it clicks. For the housing drain bolt, just tighten with a regular 3/8 ratchet drive square. It's only purpose is to be a dust cover for the drain hole on the housing, so just tighten it enough so it doesn't come off. If you move the housing while tightening the housing drain plug, you'll know you went way over 20 ft-lbs.
I have found that after removing all the oil and changing the filter, I add just 5 quarts and the dipstick is in range but adding any more than that and the dipstick shows oil level (way) over the max. Yet the stated capacity is 5.8 quarts. Any ideas why I see this is happening?
Hi, sometimes you have to let the oil settle before reading the dipstick. I think, especially on Toyotas, when you first pull the dipstick out, the oil works up the tube and gets smears back on the dipstick when you put the dipstick back in. Besides that though, are you starting the car after 5 quarts and letting the new oil run through the system? You can also check how much oil came out of the vehicle. If you're only seeing about 5 quarts come out (for example) than something might be happening like the car is on a grade or there might be a dent in the oil pan or something that making the oil not fully drain out. Generally you're doing it right, since you do get a good reading at 5 quarts, and since the min and max line represents about 1 quart, you can use that to gauge how much more oil you need. e.g. if you read it in the middle at 5 quarts, then you should only add another .5 quarts. I hope this helps.
Yes! Toyota actually has an OEM replacement that is metal. Here's a link but I haven't tried it myself so I can't vouch for it fully--it's one of those things where I wouldn't upgrade unless the original plastic one starts showing signs of wear and tear. amzn.to/3SkqBZC
It's been almost a full year since I released my first video, which just happened to be an oil change for a 4th Generation Toyota Highlander ruclips.net/video/K698BlOqs7E/видео.html I guess I'll work my way backward so sometime in the next twelve months I'll find and make a guide for a 2nd gen Highlander. Thank you all for your support by liking and subscribing.
When housing is too tight I just knock down a little be with a rubber hammer around and also I like to do it when is warm I feel that it get loose easily, I do my oil change on my highlander since I got it and I never have a issue since I practice those ways 🤷🏻♂️🫡
Great video! I would like to add some great advice!
1. Always always loosen the oil filter first before draining the engine oil especially if you weren’t the last person to change it or if the dealer has done it for you recently, it will more than likely have been over torqued. Nothing sucks more than having to put in new oil with an old filter that you couldn’t remove just to get it to the shop to get it removed. There’s a lot of ways to remove them but sometimes they are almost welded on there.
2. I’m sure you did this but I didn’t see it in the video, always do an oil filter leak check after starting the engine. Although rare, the o rings for these filters can be defective and cause small leaks. Rev the engine for about 10 seconds, grab your light and just double check that oil filter.
Really appreciate the advice. I'm pinning this so others will see it too! Thank you for taking the time.
One other - leave the plastic drain tube attached while removing the canister housing. Oil will continue to drain as you turn it. That’s my experience
Great advice. I had to start changing my oil and last mechanic put the filter on so tight I had to take it to a mechanic to use a breaker bar since I did not own one. Had to put the oil back in the car to drive it to the mechanic. Why do they put these filters on so damn tight as it is not necessary?
@@markg4561because even most mechanics feel the “ I don’t need no stinkin torque wrench “ belief. The torque numbers for the oil filter housing and the oil filter housing drain plug aren’t very tight at all. I used to have my oil changed at the dealership because Toyota had a $69 oil change ( plus tax ) special. I can’t buy the oil, the filter and do it myself ( I’ve changed oil on all my vehicles over 150 times at least ) for much less than that and they topped up the windshield wash etc. Even when Toyota “ upped “ the price to $99 plus tax I went to them. Then one time a few years ago the bill was $175. I paid and actually went back for the next change as well. That one was over $250 ( they changed the cabin air filter spas well even though I do that myself ). I always keep my “ invoice “ and at this point I looked at the $250 one. That’s when I noticed a charge of $43 for an “ oil filter assembly “ so I looked at the other invoice in the glove box and there was another $43 oil filter assembly. The Dealership’s “ Toyota Tech “ had over torqued the oil filter housing and busted it taking it off the next time, TWICE!!! Also they charged me for something they broke because of something they had over torqued. I’ve done the last 3 changes myself without damaging the plastic housing and without any leaks. We used to have a Sienna for 7 years before we got the Highlander and I did those oil changes myself after the first 4 “ included “ oil changes.
Having been a mechanic for 50 years, let me give you a tip on changing oil. Always loosen the oil filer first. If you can’t get the old filter off, and have to take it somewhere that has the tools to do so, that way you won’t be running your brand new oil thru the old filter.
Really good tip, thank you for sharing your wisdom. Funny enough, I usually check the filter by hand first to see if I will need a tool or not. But I never thought to film it or actually confirm if it's worst-case stuck. I'll need to think about how to incorporate this into my videos. Thanks again!
A few dollar donation of teaching will save me lots of money doing it myself. Thank you.😀
Much appreciated! I am so glad you found the video helpful. Thank you for the kind gesture, and if you are based in the USA like me, I hope you had a fantastic Thanksgiving weekend!
Excellent step ny step video with no unnecessary info.
I really appreciate the comment. Thanks so much for watching. I hope it helped you out.
Man, right on the money, thank you!
I did cheap out on the filter wrench, and I can confirm: it’s worth paying more for the part you recommended, not the cheapo stuff I got.
Very glad to have helped you in some small way! Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment.
One of the best DIY videos I’ve ever watched! Thank you!
Hi Alan, your kind words bring me great joy. The goal of my channel is to up the quality level of DIY guides for car maintenance. Its great to hear from folks like you to let me know I'm taking steps in the right direction. Thanks for taking the time to watch and for leaving this comment. 🙏
I purchased the oil filter socket through your link. Hope it helps. I appreciate your video and guidance!
Awesome, I hope it serves you well. It really is the best and I've definitely gotten my money's worth out of it. Thanks so much for taking the time to both watch and comment, it means a lot!
Personally I still use a jack stand underneath just in case one of the plastic ramps fails. Great video
Yes, that's a great call-out. One can never be too safe. I'll make sure to show or mention that in videos moving forward too. Thank you for taking the time to watch and comment!
Thank you for the video. Gunna be bold and admit even though I’ve been doing oil changes since I was a child, I hadn’t ever replaced a filter like these before and I messed up that process last time a changed the oil thinking to myself how hard can it be. About $100 later costing me a service visit and all the supplies I had originally purchased to do it myself, I had to take my highlander in to the dealership and to get it properly done because I broke the housing. Did it right this time thanks to the video.
To be fair to you, the Toyota cartridge style housings do seem to always be over-tightened. I'm sure service techs are not torquing to spec, but I'm also suspicious the way the housing is designed (and it being plastic) lends itself to seizing up between every oil change. We shouldn't have to have special tools to remove the housing and I'm sorry you got unlucky on your first attempt. Thanks for sharing your story and for the kind words. I'm glad my video helped the second time around!
Thank you. Perfect video. Not too little detail and not too much. Just the right amount.
I appreciate the feedback, thanks again for watching and taking the time to comment!
I agree
what an absolutely fabulous DIY video. Perfect! So thorough and clear.
Thank you so much, I am really glad it helped you out. Appreciate the like and subscribe as well!
Thank you for let me know about the tool and the washer i got them from your link thank you.
I'm so glad my video was helpful for you. Thank you for taking the time to leave a comment. Let me know if your oil change goes successfully!
Great video! Well done and very easy to follow!! Thanks!
It means a lot every time I get a comment like yours. Thank you for watching and taking the time to click/tap some buttons to support the channel.
Your video is great! I have a question. I've never dealt with a filter housing design. why can't the housing just be pulled off and the new filter and large O-ring be replaced, with out doing the drain plug for the housing? I get I must be missing something, but it just looks like something extra. My real thought is why take the chance in breaking something?
Hi Texas Mud (great name btw), excellent question and you sound like a person used to spin-on oil filters. If you remove the housing without draining, it'll behave exactly like a spin-on where it's a little messy but you'll get the job done faster. The OEM filter kit does come with the plastic drain tool though, so if you felt inclined to keep things tidy, it's there for you. Much appreciate the comment and thank you for taking the time to watch.
I am one of those who does NOT mess with the drain plug - in my experience, shoving that plastic drain thing in makes just about as much mess as just unscrewing the whole filter. It's not very easy to push the drain tube in, and it seems to make more of a mess, plus you have the oily plastic thing to deal with. Your mileage may vary, as they say! :)
@@Aloha_Alan I think it's totally legitimate to not use the draining tool. I know the Toyota techs at the dealer don't bother because time is money and it's way faster to just make a little mess and move on. Thanks for the comment!
Im just in the middle of the oil change and happened to me what others have mentioned... the oil filter is too tighten. i couldn't remove it with a regular 8" wrench and cheap filter oil wrench. now makes complete sense to get a 16" or even a 24" breaker bar and a good oil filter wrench. I will get those tools and try again... for now at least the oil is clean.
Why too tight if not needed? i am convinced that me workshop does on purpose to discourage DIY...
If you have a combo wrench set, you can loop the box end over your ratchet handle and use it as a pseudo-breaker bar. Sometimes just a little more leverage is all you need. Best of luck and let me know how it goes.
@@mldiy I just ordered the filter wrench you recommended. I'm thinking this could be big difference because allows twisting the filter cover uniformly, probably requiring less torque, stressing the filter cover less. I'll post results 👍🙂
@@aureliomega3268 Best of luck and let me know the results. The motivx oil cap wrench will definitely grip things better. You will at least feel more comfortable pulling/pushing with more force.
@@mldiy hey, finally took the courage of trying again to remove the filter, with the new wrench. I didn't buy the breaker bar, hoping that only the new and more robust socket could make the difference.... and it worked! with my regular 8in ratchet was good enough as i suspected. the thing is that the filter wrench you suggested makes better contact and around all circumference of the filter. the cheap filter wrench that i was using only makes contact in the two taps, making lot harder to remove, and probably also unreliable to tight again back. So good to go for doing my own oil changes from now and on 😉 Thanks for the recommendation and your video!
@@aureliomega3268 Awesome, I enjoy a good success story and yours is well deserved!
Best video out here🎉
Appreciate you taking the time to comment. Thanks for your support!
Nailed it, dude. Been wrenching for 15 years, but it never hurts to watch a DIY video just in case something special pops out on a first change. Also, what's holding the camera?! ;)
Always appreciate the kind words from experienced folks! I have one of those flexible tripods and I'm pretty sure I face-huggered myself to get the shot. Thanks again for taking the time to watch, comment and subscribe (totally alright if you didn't but wanted to say thanks if you did)!
Thanks for the video! My first Toyota is a 2016 Highlander we got used in 2020. Great SUV so far. I do my own oil changes and it requires 6.4 qts. oil but is not AWD and the engine code on the hood sticker says 2GR-FE V6 3.5L.
Don't know why my engine requires more oil than your 2017?
Hi there, appreciate you taking the time to comment. Apparently I am learning something new today. It looks like Toyota did a mid-model refresh in 2017 and switched from the 2GR-FE engine to the 2GR-FKS engine. Your engine, i confirmed, does require 6.4 qts instead of the newer model's 5.8 qts. And maybe you can confirm for me, besides the difference in oil capacity, it looks like the 2016 follows virtually the same steps to change the oil? Thanks for your help and your time, I will update my video's description to be more accurate with your help!
@@mldiy Not the original commenter, but I can confirm it is the exact same steps other than the 6.4qt on the 2GR-FE vs the 5.8 on the 2GR-FKS.
@@24GirlPanda Thanks for confirming! I updated the description based on your feedback just to help make it clearer for people watching in the future. Much appreciated!
very good video😀
Thanks so much for the comment and (if you haven't already) for liking and subscribing. It really helps me out. Much appreciated!
Quick question: Do you know if the process you showed is any different for a HYBRID model? (I have a 2019 Highlander Hybrid.)
Thanks for the great information-very clear and easy to follow.
Hi Fred, yes, I believe in the 3rd gen Highlander they just put a hybrid system along side the 3.5L V6. I haven't done one personally, so I recommend just taking a quick look underneath your car and seeing if the oil filter housing looks the same. If so, I think you'll be good to use the parts list in my video. Please update me if you do confirm, I'd like to be 100% sure for the next person. Thanks for your subscribe and like as well!
@@mldiy Thanks for the info, and YES, I can confirm that this is exactly the same for the Hybrid model. Just finished my first oil change, and your video made it very easy. Thanks again. Subscribed.
thank you. very helpful
I'm glad the video helped you. Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment and like!
What drive size is the wrench you used to torque the drain bolt? Of corse, all my torque wrenches set at 20 lbs for the lowest setting, so I'm going to have to go buy a wrench with a torque setting of 10 lbs. I just need to know if the drive is 3/8 or 1/2 inch.
Hi, all the specs are in the video description, so bookmark/save the video and always have an easy reference for next time. It's
Oil pan drain plug: 30 lb-ft
Oil filter housing: 18 lb-ft
Oil filter housing plug: 10 lb-ft
To save you some money, just torque the oil an drain bolt with the torque wrench you already have, then hand tighted the housing, and make sure the filter housing plug doesn't turn the housing when you tighten it.
@mldiy those are the foot-pounds specs that you set the tourqe wrenches to. I'm asking for the wrench's DRIVE size for the oil filter housing plug that takes 10lb-ft. The drive is that square knob part of the wrench that you'd press into the opening on the housing plug or the opening on a socket. They are usually either 1/4 inch, 3/8 inch or 1/2 inch. I'm assuming it's 3/8 because 1/4 is really small and 1/2 is usually bigger like the size on a breaker bar for wheel nuts. Thanks.
It's 3/8 drive square but I'm also trying to to save you 20 bucks and saying don't buy a torque wrench (unless you just really want one, of course). Just do the drain plug at 30 ft-lbs and the housing at 20 ft-lbs. It won't be that overtight for the next time. Or you can try to get a feel right before it clicks. For the housing drain bolt, just tighten with a regular 3/8 ratchet drive square. It's only purpose is to be a dust cover for the drain hole on the housing, so just tighten it enough so it doesn't come off. If you move the housing while tightening the housing drain plug, you'll know you went way over 20 ft-lbs.
Thanks
Glad the oil change guide was helpful, thanks for watching and commenting.
I have found that after removing all the oil and changing the filter, I add just 5 quarts and the dipstick is in range but adding any more than that and the dipstick shows oil level (way) over the max. Yet the stated capacity is 5.8 quarts. Any ideas why I see this is happening?
Hi, sometimes you have to let the oil settle before reading the dipstick. I think, especially on Toyotas, when you first pull the dipstick out, the oil works up the tube and gets smears back on the dipstick when you put the dipstick back in. Besides that though, are you starting the car after 5 quarts and letting the new oil run through the system? You can also check how much oil came out of the vehicle. If you're only seeing about 5 quarts come out (for example) than something might be happening like the car is on a grade or there might be a dent in the oil pan or something that making the oil not fully drain out. Generally you're doing it right, since you do get a good reading at 5 quarts, and since the min and max line represents about 1 quart, you can use that to gauge how much more oil you need. e.g. if you read it in the middle at 5 quarts, then you should only add another .5 quarts. I hope this helps.
The dipstick is always so hard to read after an oil change.
Thanks for saying this, I am glad I'm not the only one! Also appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment. Cheers!
Very scary that the housing is made out of plastic. I feel like it probably break easy. I wonder if they make a metal one as an upgraded option
Yes! Toyota actually has an OEM replacement that is metal. Here's a link but I haven't tried it myself so I can't vouch for it fully--it's one of those things where I wouldn't upgrade unless the original plastic one starts showing signs of wear and tear. amzn.to/3SkqBZC
Have no idea how he got to @2:19. He spends unecessary time at different parts but then moves fast or does not show where things are more important.
At 1:04 I show the location of the housing and oil pan drain bolt.
It's been almost a full year since I released my first video, which just happened to be an oil change for a 4th Generation Toyota Highlander ruclips.net/video/K698BlOqs7E/видео.html I guess I'll work my way backward so sometime in the next twelve months I'll find and make a guide for a 2nd gen Highlander. Thank you all for your support by liking and subscribing.
When housing is too tight I just knock down a little be with a rubber hammer around and also I like to do it when is warm I feel that it get loose easily, I do my oil change on my highlander since I got it and I never have a issue since I practice those ways 🤷🏻♂️🫡
Good tip! thanks for sharing and for watching too.