Airbrushing Model Cars- Beware the Plastic Spoon Test!!!
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- As the old song goes, "The old brown mare ain't what she used to be oh so many long years ago."
This relates also to today's kit plastic. A plastic spoon is still a spoon...but a kit ? Uh uh... Beware the spoon test.....
LOL, I love this guy sucking down cigarettes with paint/solvent fumes around! And he is no spring chicken either!!
It’s refreshing to see someone smoking in a video. Such a taboo shame on you thing anymore..
That's what gave him brain cancer. He is dead now
I feel like I’ve been scolded for something I didn’t even do yet.
Bite the bullet and buy a 5 sheet package of styrene for 4 bucks. Cut a piece and spray it. I learned my lesson using rustoleum for the first time and it all crinkled up on me and destroyed my model car . I saved it but it took alot of time . Now I test on a small sheet of styrene .
White plastic spoons are what I've used for decades to get an idea for the primer+paint results (Shades and general color), regardless the look will be similar to what you can expect on the model but I always take that with a grain of salt. Only rattle cans I use are Testors or Tamyia never ever do I use the cheapo crap from stores like walmart or the like (Not even the primers) unless it's for lawn furniture as stated. People think paint is paint and that all plastics are the same, 2 things that I think new comers should really study hard before handling model kits, just to prevent ruining them and losing interest.
He is quite right, manufacturers will often change plastic formulas in order to scratch some pennies out off the production cost. You must ALWAYS test on the same plastic you are going to use.
Thank you for the info. I wondered what was up with the plastic. I knew it wasn't like the plastic when I built in the 60's. That was nice plastic, easy to work with. This new plastic, is like hard rubber, hard to sand for detail, just crap. But now I know, just takes so much longer, and is really different. Thank you old man, from a older man. You know your plastic. New is not good as far as I see.
I've been doing model cars for a long time, came across this video, before this one I saw the one, where you talk about NOT to USE Rust-Oleum on kits you are so wrong!!! my model cars come out good especially with a lil polish if the paint doesn't come out good. Don't be negative!
I don't even want to touch the spoon subject!
I don't think he's being negative. There's alot of guys out there who had a bad experience with Rust-Oleum including myself. Use hobby spray paints or enamels as much as you can. He's right about the plastic spoons. Not all plastics are the same. The chemicals in the plastics react differently to paints.
I have always sprayed out of cans until about two years ago and I start spraying with acrylics through and airbrush. I use the paasche H and since about 1995 I have noticed the way paints laid down on the plastic and the difference of paint. So yes they are changing I never thought about the plastic bodies being of second-hand plastic. Great information thank you for that. I have been doing as you do spraying with the alclad first primer and then with the enamels second and wow what a difference. You're right I don't think you can beat enamels. They seem to have stayed true to the way that things were and are now. But thanks for the information about the plastic bodies great thanks.
Sorry, so late to read your post, I hope you can help on these couple questions:
Are you using a primer before you airbrush your acrylic paints?
1)f you are priming your plastic piece to airbrush with acrylics-- WHAT PRIMER are you using, to make sure your acrylic paints stays on OVER TIME??
2)What top coat, are you using (if any) Varnish? rust oleum- 2x clear? or Deft Lacquer( my favorite by far)??
3)Could you tell me the brand of top coat you use after you primed and airbrushed your acrylics??
4) Any other information you think is important in getting the combination to paint PLASTIC projects with acrylics and a good top coat would be greatly appreciated!
I
USE the sprue to test the paint
I can only assume that your advice on the spoon and new age plastic are based on the chemical compounds of the paint and how they effect the plastic. I totally agree.
I hope that others will see this and understand what it implies. But it doesn't mean to NOT use the spoons as I use them to see the results of various effects of base and top coat colors. If I'm satisfied, I always check the reactions, if any, on the sprues from the kit. NOT the body itself. I don't have the inclination, or funds, to waste on a perfectly good body to buy a whole new kit. Not at these prices.
Good advice is always welcome.
You're exactly 10000000000000000% right. However, By applying a few coats of an acrylic polyurethane it sets up a barrier you can safely apply Lacquers and enamels without it affecting the underlying cheap recycled plastic bodies......I use MinWax polycrylic. Just make sure it completely dries with a hairdryer. The MinWax polycrylic also works great as a gloss coat also when it's completely dry It's also buffable with polishing compounds.
Thanks for the info. I've never pondered the idea the plastic might be changing. But i definitely see the progression of changes now that I sit here and ponder things. Thank you.
This man knows his stuff!!! Take heed fellow modelers, if you wish too learn and make less mistakes FOLLOW HIS GUIDANCE
I shall not doubt the veracity of this man, nay shall I doubt his warning on the topic of scale modeling. Lest the powers of Revell strike me down where I stand.
I've been using spoons for a long time and am not going to change. But I didn't know about the bodies changing...very interesting...
I didn't know they had switched off to recycled plastic. When did that start ...roughly....? Anyone who thinks it's crazy that paint should change has been under a rock. It has all changed. Even house paints are a whole new ball game. Thanks for sharing
$30/kit vs $3/box of spoons. I’ll test on spoons thank you.
Your experience is invaluable. Thanks for sharing Don.
Sir what your saying about recycled plastic is spot on I have expericend the same things striping plastic it makes the bodies brittle but the Dot 3 brake fluid is the ticket I cant thank you enough.
Thank you for that information. I know Krylon changed something as it's not what it used to be, so I went back to model paints. I'm sure there will be even more changes coming from the model companies.
Thanks for the warning as I am new to airbrushing. Glad to know what to test my paint on. I will do the test on the spruce itself to see if the paint I am going to use would react. But I think the spoons is good for testing colors in general.
I swear this guy told me if i aint first im last while smokin that cig😅
3:46 Thank you! I've seen 5-year old questions that haven't been answered. These educational videos generate questions from people like me who want to learn. While I'm on my soapbox about these videos: either narrate or play music and generate subtitles. Why would you make the effort to create an educational video where your voice is drowned out by music, especially music that came straight out of a Portuguese cathouse!
Ive only used spoons as scale speed shapes to see what colors will look like airbrushed. I use acrylics so solvents are not an issue.
Hi, my name is Chris & I have a question...do you use enamel, lacquer, or acrylic craft paints on your kits? I'm new to airbrushing & I only use rattle can enamel, lacquers...I've never airbrushed a day in my life, so I'm trying to get opinions etc from other great modelers.....any info would be appreciated,.....thanks so much.
Chris , I use enamels primarily . On occasion , I will use lacquer , Tamiya or Testors . Check out my DVD on airbrushing at oldmansmodels.com . It will cut your learning curve to a bare minimum and at the same time , teach you a fool proof method for airbrushing paint .... Acrylics , when it comes to model car body painting , I have no use for them ...... Thank you for your inquiry , I appreciate it !
Donn
The best investment you could make if you're working on models where paint is critical would be to purchase some of the bulk styrene sheet used for model railroading. Same recycled plastic modern bodies are made of, far cheaper to purchase than test kits, and you're not out anything if you ruin the plastic.
I trust this guy because he’s sitting here with a cigarette in his hand, and a tea sitting there 🤣
I've always used the spoon test for color, and color only. I've always know that plastic spoons aren't the same as the styrene plastic used in models and never, ever, thought about testing the paint compatibility with plastic spoons.
Hi good afternoon let me start by saying ur the paint king of model cars awesome work keep it up I just started my second car my first car came out 🤢 lol but I don’t want to go forward with it because I just can’t get the Orange peel look off any good tips on what I can do thanks and have a good day can’t wait to see the next car
Not all of us have the ability to use an airbrush though. What direction do we take from there?
Tamiya spray cans are still a quality choice .....
Heavy duty easy off oven cleaner strips paint off. Might take a couple treatments to get all off. More if paints are thick on model.
DON, second comment. This is a question. I have used a primer, a auto primer from a can, b/4 spraying the color. Have not had any problem, but I have worked on older kits. Will there be any problems doing this with new plastic? I believe in sealing the plastic body or what ever b/4 any color is applied. I use a light color primer for this, just how I do it. I had a bad experience with old plastic, 67 Corvette Candidate kit. I did not seal, spray can, not hobby paint. It ate into the plastic bad. I guess test, and retest. Thanks for all the advice. You said in a diff video you were always learning. You learned and watcher others, COULD you give the names and where we as builders can get the same info. It was Doc,Fletcher, Rick, and others. I can't find these. HELP DON.
Dont Bother When using lacquer from a can , you should always use a lacquer primer such as Duplicolor.This works for the new plastic as well as the old . As for the names ....Doctor Cranky , Richard Rick Mason , Blair Fletcher , who has since passed away . The Doc can be found on RUclips . Rick hangs out on Model cars & trucks Facebook page .
Hey Donn I am into miniature and terrain painting for D&D and Warhammer but I'm just learning to airbrush would your DVD be good for that or is it specifically tuned toward model cars? Let me know cause I would love to support ya especially if it's going to help me out too.
I live in Thailand,and am just getting into model car building at 61,my paint choices are very limited,there is acrylic hobby/art paint,synthetic enamel,lacquer, lacquer acrylic and urethane,i am going to try acrylic lacquer primer and silver base,then acrylic pearl or candy with a k2 urethane clear coat,or maybe clear lacquer could be ok or could be a mess... any suggestions?
I dont have a problem with WHITE spoons They say on the package from recycling material I don't no about Clear ones My models are not clear so I don't use those and rust oleum seems to be ok for me it says on the can's I get its say's for plastic also 🤷♂️ but what works for me might not work for others 🤷♂️ i dentify dont have money falling out my ass to just TEST paints on the car 🤦♂️😅😅I'm try to build and do a good job on that's just me once again 🤷♂️
I learned the spoon test from Cranky, I thought it was a decent way to see the color before I used it, okay...things have changed.
how do you know if the kit you buy is recycled plastic?
Great video as always!
Cool and informative video, thank you for your time!!! I still use Model Master and Testors paints. Have you ever tried Wesley's Bleach White Tire Shine to strip paint? I've been using it for years now, and it doesn't seem to effect the bodies negatively, and it removed almost any kind of paint.
Jeff Hyde The first time wasn't on purpose but I found out real quick .... Lol !
Thanks for the heads up,very insightful,kee up your great work & inspiration,cheers
Superb content you have in here.
A spoon is different than a speed shape just smaller, I probably have 300 spoons for my customer's to look at pick a color
did not know this , thank you for this information .
Thanks for the info question, how do you feel about painting with nail polish? Beautiful colors...😁
Antonio Flores Actually , I like them ... Have to be careful with the flake size in some of them , they are a bit large and out of scale ......
I don’t use a body to test paint I use a hood it works very well if you don’t want to risk a body just do a hood
Good intel much appreciated... thanks for sharing
Hi Donn, do testors enamel paints go bad if they sit to long? I'm talking about unopened bottles. TY !!
Occasionally you will have a condition where the paint breaks down and has a bit of a sandlike grit in it . This can be taken care of by straining the mixed paint through a piece of nylon stocking . Otherwise, you are golden ......
@@ScaleModelTechniques Thank you !!
Ive had paints for over 20 years as im just getting back into it, and most of the Tamiya stuff I had is still okay, followed by the testors and humbrol. as long as you pull them out and stir them every few years, oh and wipe off the rims and lids before you close them back up
thank you so mush always ready for new info
Dam I like painting and building models but Jesus this dude takes this shit serious. Does he make money building these things? I do it just to get some time alone and do something cool. If the color is off by a little bit I’m not gonna lose sleep over it. It’s not that serious unless of course your making money off building these things
Great video don.
nice up date
anybody who has built an amt kit that has been put out in the last 20 years should already know this& dont think were not looking @ you to revell? one look in the box at a modern kit & you can see plain as day that they are using shit plastic. i cant believe
how many people are unaware of this?
180 gram vinyl costs what it does for a reason! its virgin vinyl& all the normal spec shit is the crap they sweep off the floor!
model kits should do 180 gram style releases every now & then on the primo kits
that everyone loves! its the least they could do! THE GIFT OF THE 40 FORD TOOL FROM AMT & THE 57 BEL AIR AND THE NOMAD
HAS GOTTEN A BIT STALE TO SAY THE LEAST. they have alot of tools they could use to bring out some stuff that alot builders would like to have again, and yet we slways hear the same tune of no younger builders in the hobby?
repopping the same crap kits over and over
& using shit plastic & then droppin a 30$ pricetag on the kit ?
what u talkin bout willis?
So im gonna say something that might hurt. Dont you prime everything first for a reason? What if the model has photo etched metal. That doesn't paint the same as plastic. Primer is what makes the finish coat uniform. Duh.....
So why not show us the different instead of going on a rant? Make an actual informative video with proof...crazy, right?
Hmmm , ….
Wasn’t a rant , just straight up truth . By the way , it’s difference, not different . Informative enough for you ? Get up off your ass , and do your own video . You’ll find out that mine spoke the truth .
Thanks For The Head's Up Don, NOW I'm Even More Confused LOL,HAHAHAHA !! Have a Blessed Wknd Y'all.
Why am I not surprised ? 😂
This guy is so pretentious lol