Nice work. It always sucks to have to tear something down more than once but you mastered it. The one I videoed was the same way. It would cruise on flat ground and mow all day, but once it had to go up hill or a bump it just sat there. Those motors and pumps really can't have any play to work efficiently.
That is a correct statement but thanks to this sharing of knowledge we get a better picture I have often been disappointed at myself and maybe I shouldn't be like that when it comes to those 2-3 time failures but eventually U get it right especially when ya have You Tube back up video like this one.
Brian thank you , even though you no longer work at Autozone , you always find a way to help us out... Lol. , you made things very clear and easy to understand as always...
Thank you so much for this series of videos! You saved me from having to spend nearly $2,000 for John Deere to replace the transmission in my LA145. Keep up the great work :)
Fantastic, clear, and informative vid. I have an L110 with 500+hours and haven't had this issue......yet. now I'm prepared. My experience with 3 neighbors and my hoods is to knock the plastic stems off the inside of the hood, drill them and use bolts and washers to mount to the bracket. It may not look as nice, but the stems crack from vibration eventually anyway. Eliminates a lot of vibration. Thanks for the series. Very well done.
Thanks Brian. To date I have done a number of simple fixes to my Deere 140. Never thought about overhauling the transmission. I might give it a shot now base on your video. Nice job!
awesome videos. I need to do a rebuild on mine. my l120 has 1800 hours, yes that's right on the original transmission. this video series makes this rebuild look like a breeze.
Excellent series, THANKS! I never knew how a hydrostatic transmisson works. Mustie1 got the same trans back to working by replacing a seal, but, I was curious and found this series, well done!
Awsome series of videos! I'm not afraid to tackle a job like this, and these videos will make it much easier now that you've walked us through it. very well done! Thanks and keep them coming!
Thanks for posting the update, Brian. I really enjoy your vids. Been a long time viewer, and wanted to say thanks for what you do. Besides being an extremely competent mechanic, you have a great attitude through all your videos. That's something that isn't lost on your viewers and because of it, you are my go to for any automotive quandaries I may have. Thanks for what you do.
Awesome series of videos! Nice to know there is another option to $800.00 (same old "will fail again in 300 hrs") or $1800 ("might work") redesigned new transmissions. Much like you and "Auto Zone" not sure I will take the chance rebuilding my JD. (I bought a Cab Cadet a few days before I found this.) I was excited about finally owning a Deere ...until I owned one for a few years. 412 hours latter after replacing 1/2 the parts on this thing I wish I still had my old MTD Ranch King that served me well for over 25 years. At any rate at least I know there is a reasonable expectation to getting some $ out of it instead of scrapping it. Your work ethic is commendable to say the least. Don't know where you live ...but interested in putting a 1973 Opel GT back together for me? I'm in Ohio. Long story ... I would hire you in a heart beat!
The pump used in these hydrostatic transaxles is a variable displacement (or variable volume) positive displacement piston pump. It is important to understand that pumps do not "pump pressure", they pump volume (displacement). Pressure is the result of any resistance in the fluid system to the flow. In this case the resistance is from the drive wheels, through the axle and back to the hydraulic motor in the transaxle. When the swash plate (the plate at the bottom of the motor pistons) is in the middle "neutral" position the motor pistons do not move up and down at all when the input shaft is driven by the engine running. Since the do not move up and down the pump is at zero displacement and there is not oil being delivered by the pump to the hydraulic motor. As the swash plate is moved by stepping on the forward/reverse pedals the angular change causes the hydraulic motor pistons to begin to move up and down as the input shaft is turning. The more angle on the plate the further the piston travel on each revolution and the greater the displacement is on the pump. This means that more volume of oil is delivered to the hydraulic motor. The motor is a fixed displacement setup, so the more oil volume that is delivered to it, the faster it will turn and therefore make the tractor travel faster. Moving the swash plate in the forward and reverse direction just changes which direction the oil is flowing to the hydraulic motor and that causes it to run in opposite rotation to give forward and reverse travel on the wheels. Pressure is a necessity in the system as no work can be done without pressure. The pump has to be in good enough condition to deliver the necessary oil volume AND overcome the pressure encountered when mowing the grass (light work/minimal pressure) or pulling, driving up a hill or going over the threshold of the storage shed (heavier work/greater pressure). If the motor has wear and allows some (or all) of the oil volume the pump is delivering to leak past the pistons in the motor is able to output little if any force because the pressure cannot build up to the necessary level required to do the work of moving the tractor. This is why some people will see acceptable performance from the transaxles by replacing the oil with a high viscosity oil. The thicker oil does not leak past the pistons as easily, therefore the system pressure will again build to the point where the work of driving the wheels can be done.
Excellent explanation, you have really helped me understand the role of pump, motor & swash plate. Helped build my confidence to repair my hydrostatic transmission. Thankyou👍🏻👌🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 regards from 🇦🇺.
That's impressive, you're a great mechanic for sure. Just bought an '04 110 today. Does just what you said, mowes and works ok but seems a little slow and wines a bit when you first take off. I'm gonna start by changing the fluid and see if that helps. Maybe rebuild the trans later? Thanks man, definitely have food for thought now.
Thanks for the video Brian, was about ready to sell mine (LA145 249 Hrs) for parts but now going to try to rebuild transmission and try for another 250 hrs.!!
Thanks for the great series Brian! I found your videos incredibly helpful when I tore down the K46i transmission in my Husqvarna Rider 155 and replaced the filter, motor and pump. I referred back to the part where you removed and reinstalled the pump/motor assembly multiple times as I struggled to get mine back in. I added a dab of grease on that pin that likes to fall out and that seemed to hold it in place. I had a scary moment when I fired up my mower and it wouldn’t move. Once I performed the steps on the TuffTorq site for purging the air, she took off strong. Here are the steps for purging the air from the TuffTorq site; 1. Check oil level. 2. Place vehicle's drive axle on jack stands with wheels off floor. 3. Start engine and operate at low idle speed. 4. Repeat opening and closing bypass (tow) valve while alternately depressing forward and reverse pedal(s). 5. When vehicle starts to move, increase engine speed. 6. Repeat quick starts and panic stops until transaxle gives full response. 7. Remove jack stands while placing vehicle's wheels on floor. 8. Recheck and top-off oil level. You may want to add “TuffTorq K46 Transmission” to the description of your videos. The K46 is found in lots of brands of tractors and that might help more people find your great series. Best, David
As an old retired Transmission specialist, I really appreciated your series on this rebuild. Makes me want to go pick up a used trans to fix up and sell! They are such a mystery where I live (rural area of the Big Island of Hawai'i).... BTW... I even built transmission in SLC back in the 70's!
Thank you first off for making this possible. My L130 is back on the road and mowing again. Good thing it was getting embarrassing around here with grass. It cost my time which I'm always glad to put in and a little over $150 with gears, plug, sealer, Fan which was destroyed over the years and UPS, Again thanks!
Thanks for the very informative, clear and concise videos, Briansmobile1. I've disassembled my K46 TuffTorq transmission and found it to be in great shape. The mower only has 156 hrs. use and the pump and motor pistons/plungers don't seem to be worn or have any play in the bores. However, the aluminum body seems to be worn a little where the rotors turn against the body. If the body is worn that would allow oil to be squeezed out between the rotors and body. I'm thinking of just replacing the body and using a heavier weight oil in my transmission. What is your opinion about using a synthetic 70W90 weight limited slip differential oil in the transmission?
Hey Brian. Thanks for the videos. They helped me with my dad's old JD L110 transaxle. Rebuilt the Kohler 17.5 at 1200hrs due to the compression release broke off the cam. Now the transaxle is fresh at 1500hrs. Mower is retired from service (got a Gravely), but dad uses it to get around the yard. We will see just how many hours can be achieved.
Thanks for a no-nonsense video on the subject. I have a tired JD X300 that is slowing down a little more each time I use it. Think it's time for an overhaul. I have rebuilt many old Wheel Horse manual transmission, but never a hydro. Your video has given me the confidence to open it up and git 'r done.
briansmobile1 I ordered the pump, motor and filter today. Derrick from Tuff Torq suggested that I buy the whole repair kit ($363.00) which includes all of the above plus the center case. I opted to skip that and buy the individual parts I needed for $144.00 off eBay. I will let you know how it turns out.
Just wanted to say thank you for sharing this tutorial, I recently purchased a John Deere D110 last fall, worked perfectly fine and only has 30 hours on it and now the transmission will not engage nor will the brake blocks work. I now feel 100% confident to tear down and rebuild the transmission thank you, thank you, thank you.
Thank you Byron!! Fantastic set of videos. I have a 10 year old LA175 that has a very tired transaxle with a fluid leak. I have torn down numerous auto and boat engines and I think your videos have prepared me for the worst. I really appreciated your banter throughout the process - made for a much more entertaining and informative video. I would not have had the patience to film everything as you did. Again, many thanks!!!
Good video Brian, started my LA145 with about 210 hours yesterday and it jerked and stopped after about 100 yards. I noticed I had shoved a "branch" up under the deck that split and got up under the frame and knocked the belt off (below the fan pulley). I worked it back on by pulling the right rear tire but when I put it back on no brake and no roll (under power) forward or reverse. I did NOT notice the key thus it feel out and I never reinstalled it. However I did see the key way, just didn't register.I'm hoping I can go out and find it now. But if not I learned a great deal. Its folks like you who help those of us that use these wonderful, priceless snippets here. Can't that you and "your kind" here enough!
Great job, I have a LA145 that appears to have transmission problems, new aftermarket belt and it will not pull, about like yours trying to get over sill in shed, I bought a John Deere traction belt will replace it, but have little hope for the old transmission, Again good job on video, but too complicated for me to tackle, May try to find an old wheel horse with 6 speed manual transmission and be done with hydraulic drive transmissions in lawnmowers,
Brilliant series its good to see a mixture of work!i had a non start on a rotavator yesterday it had shit in the carb blew the jet out new gaskets fresh fuel it then ran like a dream!Keep em coming
Thanks for these videos. I likely wouldn't have tried rebuilding my trans without these videos. I successfully rebuilt it for a fraction of the costs. I referred back to your videos multiple times. Great resource.
Amazingly informative video on MY EXACT model JD that needs help in this area! In addition I learned why I too switched away from AutoZone in my area to O'reilly. Like page 2 of a Paul Harvey story. Now I know why AZ went down in service so quick and so badly!
I wanted to rebuild my mom`s K-57r Tuff Torq because it was failing on hills after 400 hours. No rebuild kit available!!!! No drain plug either?? Built like a disposable bic lighter. Had to take the whole transaxle out, invert and drain, fill with heavier fluid and new drive belt in an effort to extend its life. Time will tell if I wasted $ and effort in my cold garage. Shame on Tuff Torq!!! Not impressed at ALL.... And they stopped making the parts already???????
This is by far one of the best videos for rebuild how to's I have seen. Well done. I have this mower and the transmission is slipping. Now I know why and how to repair it.
Brian, I just finished repairing my tractor. I got a new pump and motor, and I followed your tutorial. When I got it all together, it goes backward when I press the forward lever. What could I have done wrong? Tuff Torq says that I mounted the block on the shaft that goes into the motor upside down. I did not do this.
Excuse me, could you support me by saying how I change the transmission oil of the Jondeer LA 115 model, that is how I talk about that transmission is covered in plastic.
I just picked up an lx188 JD that seems to have some transmission issues. It had been sitting for years, doesn't appear that it was maintained well. I started messing with it this afternoon and got it running, it desperately needs a tune up and at least the trans oil changed. I have no idea how many hours, it has the liquid cooled 17 hp kawasaki and i assume a similar, if not the same trans as this. I originally bought it planning on parting it out but now i am thinking about fixing it up. I guess it will be a good winter project
springs shorten over time i think shimming the original pistons springs or running longer clutch springs would help bring the pressure up u can also grind down the reverse stop on the switch bracket to get a faster reverse if u modify the body to get a full pedal travel i just remove the reverse switch and bracket on mine so i can mow in reverse without pushing the pto button it gives u full revers travel but the fender deck hits the pedal in full reverse needs trimming
Hey Brian. Can’t get rod on trans to go in hole on neutral tab. It is not bent but it won’t go down far enough to seat in hole. What am I doing wrong? Please help Thx Bruce
Thanks Brian,Great video with step by step. After watching, I was confident enough to try mine. Tuff Torq only sells a rebuild kit which includes a lot for $368, so I decided to have my cylinder blocks faces ground at a machine shop, stoned the aluminum faces and reinstalled. Cleaned the filter with Break cleaner, my gears where fine. Filled with 5W50, reinstalled on the tractor, and good as new. Thanks! Saved myself $400!!!
My tuff torq k62a failed and was leaking, so I bought a reseal kit and hoped it fixed the issue--- It did not!! Wasted $130.. But I might just save-up to buy new pumps & try again..it might be cheaper than buying a near mower.
Excellent detail and R/R of the process. Just ordered parts for my K46 Craftsman and cam across your video series. Just in time while waiting for my parts! Can't thank you enough. 👍 subscribed!
Neighbor just gave me a L125 John deer rider. Transmission leaks oil. John deer told her to buy another one. Not sure where it's leaking from. But from where it's dripping it looks like it's leaking from the top somewhere. Any clues. Hope it's the pressure caps.
3/18/23; 6 part video on JD K42 transaxle A+✅️. Great narration & camera closeups & lighting. Great job, very helpful info. Thx for your time & effort. Much enjoyed your 'can do'/no fear/let's do it'🔧⚙️💪 attitude! Stay safe & carry on!👍👏🍺😊
@briansmobile1 thank you very much for the walkthrough. It was very detailed and helped me to feel comfortable enough to have a go at this. Was my first experience with a tractor or a transmission. Prior to getting started, the tractor was moving, just not very well. After opening it up and inspecting everything I came to the conclusion that the motor and pump needed replacement. I put the new parts in and assembled it using your videos every step of the way. However after mounting the trans and connecting the brake, accelerator and belt, with the rear end lifted off the ground while trying to purge the air, I could not get the transmission to engage. It feels like it wants to catch, I hear somewhat of a grinding noise that sounds like its coming from the front end followed by white smoke also coming from the front. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
A JD employee said I should change the transmission fluid at 200 hours. He said if you are driving it for about 10 minutes and notice it getting slower. It’s the fluid losing it’s viscosity. A few videos on RUclips show how it’s done and usually rides like new again.
How do I know when I need to rebuild my transmission. The old expression that haunts me is, "if it works, don't fix it". My LX178 is around 21 years old. Is it normal when I move forward, I hear a weird sound? Not really a grinding sound, but a wining sound. That's when I'm moving forward real fast. If I slow the forward down, the wining goes away. Also; while you were rebuilding, how much oil do I put in? You didn't specify the quantity. Also, many have told me to use 90 wt. You had mentioned to use 5w50? Also, where am I filling the oil at? Where the hydrostatic oil fill goes?
I have a similar problem with a John Deere L120. No power. Unfortunately, Tuff Torq no longer sells the blocks. Just a "rebuild kit" which costs almost $400.
Need help figuring out what to replace in the transmission on a L110 tractor. Will not back up when cold. Once it’s warmed up runs normal forward and backwards.
@briansmobile1, awesome series, my mom and dad have an L111 with about 140 hours, wont climb hills anymore. I'm assuming it'll take the same o'haul that you did, going to take it apart next week. Thanks for taking the time to make the series. JD in Ontario CA wanted 700 for a new transmission and said these were sealed and non-repairable. Customer Service has gone to SH*&! Be well, toby
Watched all 6 parts. Nicely explained, thank you. I'm about to remove a K46 box out of my WestWood (Countax/Ariens) W-Series, out front mower, zero turn. The right side drive axle snapped off, (couldn't find a video on axle replacement but you have explained alot!) I have new replacement axle to put in, who knows what I will find inside the box? as the machine has many hours on it, but it was working fine before the axle snapped!
Very good. Thanks. I just bought an LT160. Seems to be OK but a little slower in forward than maybe it should be. If I have problems I'll rebuild it. Good video, warts and all.
Thanks so much for the 6 part videos. You gave me the information to diagnose and rebuild my K46 on my JD L130. On my rebuild I changed out both the motor pump and pressure pump. I just finished rebuilding, on my test drive everything works great, but once I run it over 45 minutes I'll know for sure. One question, I noticed my neutral sorta works, but still tough to push, you can definitely know the difference of when neutral is engaged or disengaged. Is this something that will get better as the pumps break in? Did you experience anything similar?
The K46 transmission you rebuilt is the exact same as mine. It started to leak fluid from one of the axles and stopped moving so I pulled it apart and replaced the axle seals. While I had it open I figured I would pull it apart, clean it and put new 5w 50 in it. Any way it moved for about 20 feet started whining again and stopped moving so I parked it and just started using another smaller 42" mower but it is slow and takes me forever to cut my grass. While I was in my driveway a couple of weeks ago I found a bearing and thought man I bet this goes inside my trans so I pulled it apart and pulled both vent tubes out, had springs but that was it, I kind of remember these falling out the first time and I thought a check ball fell out and I thought I put it back in. I contacted Tufftorq and they said that sense my spring had flanges that they did not get check balls they got filters. Was wondering if you might know anything about these two vent tubes. Thanks
Great job and very friendly narrative which keeps one engaged through a complicated subject. One question I have is : My mower is an L100 and just wondering if it is the same as the L118 that you demonstrated on. My does not have a pull lever on the rear of the mower (transmission). Is this by design or is it just missing? The L 100 is not automatic. Currently the mower will start but it will not go in gear???
Hey guys I need help last summer my John deere la175 would be fine mowing for first 20 ish minutes then it would start to loose power to the ground. I watched some videos and read a bunch on Google and it sounded like it here problem was a worn out pump and motor. I tore it all out and the pump and motor pistons are still pretty snug in there blocks. I did notice one of the ids valves on the side of the center block was stuck in so I worked it out and cleaned it up and put it back in. I'm really thinking about putting it all back together and trying it. Do you guys have any advice or help for me? I called tuff torq and they want me to spend almost $500 on a couple parts. That sounds redicules. The tractor was bought brand new by my uncle I do believe he's had it back to the dealer for maintenance as he's pretty particular about that stuff. But I bet it was the same junk oil they started with. Any help guys?
Hi Brian how many total hours did you have repairing your transmission. Including round 2 I am looking buying the same tractor with very low hours for $300.00 think I am going to buy and rebuild the transmission over the winter.
I bought a L 110 automatic and when you give gas to go forward it would go back ward, and giving gas for reverse it would go forward.. What do you think the problem could be... thanks Rick
does the air vent and fluid fill cap just snap into place or are they threaded. Trans on my used mower runs OK but I wanted to check fluid level but when I tried to remove the air vent the outer section Snapped off leaving black inner and white pin (vent). If its supposed to just pop out I'll likely pry the interior piece out and replace the entire air vent. was using a screw driver to attempt to pry it out when it broke. any suggestion appreciated.
Fantastic Brian. Just what I was looking for. I just got a new D130 with only 8 hours of grass cutting on it so far and I want to change to oil in the trans right away with 5 W 50 Syn. It this point I'll be just draining out the original oil and replacing it but I'm going to keep your vids on file in case I need to get inside and replace parts. Thanks for the great 6 part vids. Russ
Great video, I have a question though. LA120 overhauled transmission started out working great up step hills not a problem. Now I have the slightest hill and I can sit with pedal forward motion and I do not smell rubber like the belt get hot but then it takes off, like the belt is loose, I have new belt and pullys same effect, any suggestions?
After the gear and the pumps were replaced, when I press on the accelarator, the tractor is going backward instead of foward. What do you think is the problem? What is the solution? Thanks in advance!
Nice work the the series of videos! I bought mine from a guy that rammed ice and now the transmission slips. Spent $100 for the mower, weights, chains and plow. After watching your video I think I can fix the problem. Will let you know how it turns out.
Excellent series. I would like to see a '96 Craftsman Lawn tractor transmission rebuild. There are thousands of them out there that need service, yet there is no good service videos for them.
great videos getting ready to work on a tuff torq k61 new holland, not so nervous now! auto zone sucks worked for both companies OReillys is better! thanks again.
Great Video Series, Brian. Mine works good but doesn't have much speed forward. It feels like the pedal should go farther, but it won't. What do you think? Motor? Pump? Something else? Thanks.
Your video's are helpful. I'm trying to replace the S shaped pipe that goes from the engine to the muffler on my L110. Is there a way of getting that pipe in without lifting the engine off the base? I can get one side, either the top or the bottom, but I can't get both. I suspect I'll need to create some space so I can both ends in but I'm not sure and don't know the easiest way to do that. Thanks, Bob
![Maishäckseln mit LU Biggel, Krone Big X 1100 mit 12 Reihen Maisgebiss, Claas, Fendt Teil 6 2024 [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Ms-jPfX7BnQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice work. It always sucks to have to tear something down more than once but you mastered it. The one I videoed was the same way. It would cruise on flat ground and mow all day, but once it had to go up hill or a bump it just sat there. Those motors and pumps really can't have any play to work efficiently.
Thanks!
That is a correct statement but thanks to this sharing of knowledge we get a better picture I have often been disappointed at myself and maybe I shouldn't be like that when it comes to those 2-3 time failures but eventually U get it right especially when ya have You Tube back up video like this one.
Awesome video from start to finish. All 6 video's were very informative. Have a LT180 that I'll be rebuilding soon. I'll use these videos.
Brian thank you , even though you no longer work at Autozone , you always find a way to help us out... Lol. , you made things very clear and easy to understand as always...
Thank you so much for this series of videos! You saved me from having to spend nearly $2,000 for John Deere to replace the transmission in my LA145. Keep up the great work :)
Great video. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Great video. I have a D140, but it's still a tough turf trans. With this video, I'm sure I'll be able to rebuild it. Thanks
Fantastic, clear, and informative vid. I have an L110 with 500+hours and haven't had this issue......yet. now I'm prepared. My experience with 3 neighbors and my hoods is to knock the plastic stems off the inside of the hood, drill them and use bolts and washers to mount to the bracket. It may not look as nice, but the stems crack from vibration eventually anyway. Eliminates a lot of vibration. Thanks for the series. Very well done.
Thanks Kirby!
Thanks Brian. To date I have done a number of simple fixes to my Deere 140. Never thought about overhauling the transmission. I might give it a shot now base on your video. Nice job!
awesome videos. I need to do a rebuild on mine. my l120 has 1800 hours, yes that's right on the original transmission. this video series makes this rebuild look like a breeze.
I took that off of mine and not gonna put it back on because i don't like it my craftsman's don't have it so it doesn't need it
Excellent series, THANKS! I never knew how a hydrostatic transmisson works. Mustie1 got the same trans back to working by replacing a seal, but, I was curious and found this series, well done!
Awsome series of videos! I'm not afraid to tackle a job like this, and these videos will make it much easier now that you've walked us through it. very well done! Thanks and keep them coming!
Thanks for posting the update, Brian. I really enjoy your vids. Been a long time viewer, and wanted to say thanks for what you do. Besides being an extremely competent mechanic, you have a great attitude through all your videos. That's something that isn't lost on your viewers and because of it, you are my go to for any automotive quandaries I may have. Thanks for what you do.
Thank you! I really do appreciate your encouragement and support!
Awesome series! I have watched each episode in detail and I believe I'm ready to tackle my K46 now. Thanks for the detailed info.
Just watched the whole series 1-6 and now going to take apart my first K46 wish me luck! Great Videos!!!!
Awesome series of videos! Nice to know there is another option to $800.00 (same old "will fail again in 300 hrs") or $1800 ("might work") redesigned new transmissions. Much like you and "Auto Zone" not sure I will take the chance rebuilding my JD. (I bought a Cab Cadet a few days before I found this.) I was excited about finally owning a Deere ...until I owned one for a few years. 412 hours latter after replacing 1/2 the parts on this thing I wish I still had my old MTD Ranch King that served me well for over 25 years. At any rate at least I know there is a reasonable expectation to getting some $ out of it instead of scrapping it. Your work ethic is commendable to say the least. Don't know where you live ...but interested in putting a 1973 Opel GT back together for me? I'm in Ohio. Long story ... I would hire you in a heart beat!
Nice work and video, very professional. Thumbs up!
The pump used in these hydrostatic transaxles is a variable displacement (or variable volume) positive displacement piston pump. It is important to understand that pumps do not "pump pressure", they pump volume (displacement). Pressure is the result of any resistance in the fluid system to the flow. In this case the resistance is from the drive wheels, through the axle and back to the hydraulic motor in the transaxle.
When the swash plate (the plate at the bottom of the motor pistons) is in the middle "neutral" position the motor pistons do not move up and down at all when the input shaft is driven by the engine running. Since the do not move up and down the pump is at zero displacement and there is not oil being delivered by the pump to the hydraulic motor. As the swash plate is moved by stepping on the forward/reverse pedals the angular change causes the hydraulic motor pistons to begin to move up and down as the input shaft is turning. The more angle on the plate the further the piston travel on each revolution and the greater the displacement is on the pump. This means that more volume of oil is delivered to the hydraulic motor. The motor is a fixed displacement setup, so the more oil volume that is delivered to it, the faster it will turn and therefore make the tractor travel faster. Moving the swash plate in the forward and reverse direction just changes which direction the oil is flowing to the hydraulic motor and that causes it to run in opposite rotation to give forward and reverse travel on the wheels.
Pressure is a necessity in the system as no work can be done without pressure. The pump has to be in good enough condition to deliver the necessary oil volume AND overcome the pressure encountered when mowing the grass (light work/minimal pressure) or pulling, driving up a hill or going over the threshold of the storage shed (heavier work/greater pressure). If the motor has wear and allows some (or all) of the oil volume the pump is delivering to leak past the pistons in the motor is able to output little if any force because the pressure cannot build up to the necessary level required to do the work of moving the tractor. This is why some people will see acceptable performance from the transaxles by replacing the oil with a high viscosity oil. The thicker oil does not leak past the pistons as easily, therefore the system pressure will again build to the point where the work of driving the wheels can be done.
Excellent explanation, you have really helped me understand the role of pump, motor & swash plate. Helped build my confidence to repair my hydrostatic transmission. Thankyou👍🏻👌🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻 regards from 🇦🇺.
That's impressive, you're a great mechanic for sure. Just bought an '04 110 today. Does just what you said, mowes and works ok but seems a little slow and wines a bit when you first take off. I'm gonna start by changing the fluid and see if that helps. Maybe rebuild the trans later? Thanks man, definitely have food for thought now.
I wanted to see the worn parts as reference. Sometimes, the obvious isn't showing itself to the untrained eye. Good videos nonetheless.
Thanks for the tip. I'm doing an outdrive water pump impeller. I'll be sure to show the old one in detail. That's great advice.
Thanks for the video Brian, was about ready to sell mine (LA145 249 Hrs) for parts but now going to try to rebuild transmission and try for another 250 hrs.!!
Thanks for the great series Brian! I found your videos incredibly helpful when I tore down the K46i transmission in my Husqvarna Rider 155 and replaced the filter, motor and pump. I referred back to the part where you removed and reinstalled the pump/motor assembly multiple times as I struggled to get mine back in. I added a dab of grease on that pin that likes to fall out and that seemed to hold it in place. I had a scary moment when I fired up my mower and it wouldn’t move. Once I performed the steps on the TuffTorq site for purging the air, she took off strong.
Here are the steps for purging the air from the TuffTorq site;
1. Check oil level.
2. Place vehicle's drive axle on jack stands with wheels off floor.
3. Start engine and operate at low idle speed.
4. Repeat opening and closing bypass (tow) valve while alternately depressing forward and reverse pedal(s).
5. When vehicle starts to move, increase engine speed.
6. Repeat quick starts and panic stops until transaxle gives full response.
7. Remove jack stands while placing vehicle's wheels on floor.
8. Recheck and top-off oil level.
You may want to add “TuffTorq K46 Transmission” to the description of your videos. The K46 is found in lots of brands of tractors and that might help more people find your great series.
Best, David
As an old retired Transmission specialist, I really appreciated your series on this rebuild. Makes me want to go pick up a used trans to fix up and sell! They are such a mystery where I live (rural area of the Big Island of Hawai'i).... BTW... I even built transmission in SLC back in the 70's!
I have that same transmission n live big island to so far mine doing good but you never know when it will go, good video thanks
Thank you first off for making this possible. My L130 is back on the road and mowing again. Good thing it was getting embarrassing around here with grass. It cost my time which I'm always glad to put in and a little over $150 with gears, plug, sealer, Fan which was destroyed over the years and UPS, Again thanks!
Thanks for the very informative, clear and concise videos, Briansmobile1. I've disassembled my K46 TuffTorq transmission and found it to be in great shape. The mower only has 156 hrs. use and the pump and motor pistons/plungers don't seem to be worn or have any play in the bores. However, the aluminum body seems to be worn a little where the rotors turn against the body. If the body is worn that would allow oil to be squeezed out between the rotors and body. I'm thinking of just replacing the body and using a heavier weight oil in my transmission. What is your opinion about using a synthetic 70W90 weight limited slip differential oil in the transmission?
Hey Brian. Thanks for the videos. They helped me with my dad's old JD L110 transaxle. Rebuilt the Kohler 17.5 at 1200hrs due to the compression release broke off the cam. Now the transaxle is fresh at 1500hrs. Mower is retired from service (got a Gravely), but dad uses it to get around the yard. We will see just how many hours can be achieved.
Thanks for a no-nonsense video on the subject. I have a tired JD X300 that is slowing down a little more each time I use it. Think it's time for an overhaul. I have rebuilt many old Wheel Horse manual transmission, but never a hydro. Your video has given me the confidence to open it up and git 'r done.
You're welcome! I'm excited for you- just make sure to replace the filter, motor, and the pump. I had to get back in and replace the pump.
briansmobile1 I ordered the pump, motor and filter today. Derrick from Tuff Torq suggested that I buy the whole repair kit ($363.00) which includes all of the above plus the center case. I opted to skip that and buy the individual parts I needed for $144.00 off eBay. I will let you know how it turns out.
Awesome! Let me know- and good luck!
Just got an old Deere for $100. Thanks for this extremely well done video. I will probably do this over the winter. Thanks.
Just wanted to say thank you for sharing this tutorial, I recently purchased a John Deere D110 last fall, worked perfectly fine and only has 30 hours on it and now the transmission will not engage nor will the brake blocks work. I now feel 100% confident to tear down and rebuild the transmission thank you, thank you, thank you.
Thank you Byron!! Fantastic set of videos. I have a 10 year old LA175 that has a very tired transaxle with a fluid leak. I have torn down numerous auto and boat engines and I think your videos have prepared me for the worst. I really appreciated your banter throughout the process - made for a much more entertaining and informative video. I would not have had the patience to film everything as you did. Again, many thanks!!!
Good video Brian, started my LA145 with about 210 hours yesterday and it jerked and stopped after about 100 yards. I noticed I had shoved a "branch" up under the deck that split and got up under the frame and knocked the belt off (below the fan pulley). I worked it back on by pulling the right rear tire but when I put it back on no brake and no roll (under power) forward or reverse. I did NOT notice the key thus it feel out and I never reinstalled it. However I did see the key way, just didn't register.I'm hoping I can go out and find it now. But if not I learned a great deal. Its folks like you who help those of us that use these wonderful, priceless snippets here. Can't that you and "your kind" here enough!
Brian, you did a great job on the tractor and video. Thank you!
Great job, I have a LA145 that appears to have transmission problems, new aftermarket belt and it will not pull, about like yours trying to get over sill in shed,
I bought a John Deere traction belt will replace it, but have little hope for the old transmission,
Again good job on video, but too complicated for me to tackle,
May try to find an old wheel horse with 6 speed manual transmission and be done with hydraulic drive transmissions in lawnmowers,
Brilliant series its good to see a mixture of work!i had a non start on a rotavator yesterday it had shit in the carb blew the jet out new gaskets fresh fuel it then ran like a dream!Keep em coming
What kind oil did you use in it
Thanks for these videos. I likely wouldn't have tried rebuilding my trans without these videos. I successfully rebuilt it for a fraction of the costs. I referred back to your videos multiple times. Great resource.
Awesome job on the videos !!!...These will be put to practical use this winter !
Amazingly informative video on MY EXACT model JD that needs help in this area! In addition I learned why I too switched away from AutoZone in my area to O'reilly. Like page 2 of a Paul Harvey story. Now I know why AZ went down in service so quick and so badly!
I wanted to rebuild my mom`s K-57r Tuff Torq because it was failing on hills after 400 hours. No rebuild kit available!!!! No drain plug either?? Built like a disposable bic lighter. Had to take the whole transaxle out, invert and drain, fill with heavier fluid and new drive belt in an effort to extend its life. Time will tell if I wasted $ and effort in my cold garage. Shame on Tuff Torq!!! Not impressed at ALL.... And they stopped making the parts already???????
This is by far one of the best videos for rebuild how to's I have seen. Well done. I have this mower and the transmission is slipping. Now I know why and how to repair it.
Thank you Brian, I watched your video, and it was of great help.
Brian, I just finished repairing my tractor. I got a new pump and motor, and I followed your tutorial. When I got it all together, it goes backward when I press the forward lever. What could I have done wrong? Tuff Torq says that I mounted the block on the shaft that goes into the motor upside down. I did not do this.
I had the same problem, need to know how to fix it,
@@kyrvvan Search question about 4 questions up by: atown7587
atown7587
4 years ago
Mate, awesome work, easy to follow and very good descriptive detail. From an ex aircraft engineer.
Excuse me, could you support me by saying how I change the transmission oil of the Jondeer LA 115 model, that is how I talk about that transmission is covered in plastic.
I just picked up an lx188 JD that seems to have some transmission issues. It had been sitting for years, doesn't appear that it was maintained well. I started messing with it this afternoon and got it running, it desperately needs a tune up and at least the trans oil changed. I have no idea how many hours, it has the liquid cooled 17 hp kawasaki and i assume a similar, if not the same trans as this. I originally bought it planning on parting it out but now i am thinking about fixing it up. I guess it will be a good winter project
Cool video!! Would you fix my transmission? I bought a tractor and it has the same problem.
what was the cost of the rebuild? and would you recommend draining a new transmission (on a zero hour machine) and servicing with better fluid?
La100 transmission
Ice this really ain't thT hard to do. I just did it but....m...ine won't move at all now. Any thoughts on where to start first ???
Where do you get your parts for the trans from? I have an L105 it looks a lot different than yours. It looks like it has snowmobile pullies on it.
great video on diy tranny rebuild thank you very informative step by step
springs shorten over time i think shimming the original pistons springs or running longer clutch springs would help bring the pressure up u can also grind down the reverse stop on the switch bracket to get a faster reverse if u modify the body to get a full pedal travel i just remove the reverse switch and bracket on mine so i can mow in reverse without pushing the pto button it gives u full revers travel but the fender deck hits the pedal in full reverse needs trimming
What parts do I need to repair JD L110 transmission? It goes slow forward and very slow reverse.
Hey Brian. Can’t get rod on trans to go in hole on neutral tab. It is not bent but it won’t go down far enough to seat in hole. What am I doing wrong? Please help Thx Bruce
Thanks Brian,Great video with step by step. After watching, I was confident enough to try mine. Tuff Torq only sells a rebuild kit which includes a lot for $368, so I decided to have my cylinder blocks faces ground at a machine shop, stoned the aluminum faces and reinstalled. Cleaned the filter with Break cleaner, my gears where fine. Filled with 5W50, reinstalled on the tractor, and good as new. Thanks! Saved myself $400!!!
Way to go Rich! Thanks for clicking like and subscribe!
By the way, thanks for your video; very informative and well done!
On your video hydrostatic transmission, is that the same transmission for an LT155?
Overall, very well done.
Awesome series Dude! I learned a lot and know now that this is exactly what i need to do. Thanks Bro.
excellent series of videos
that thing mobs now! i need to do that to mine lol
I saw dr Paul peeking around the corner behind you and of course had to subscribe
I have a LA110 and is leaking oil out of the drive shafts to the wheels do they have seals in the shaft housings?
My tuff torq k62a failed and was leaking, so I bought a reseal kit and hoped it fixed the issue--- It did not!! Wasted $130.. But I might just save-up to buy new pumps & try again..it might be cheaper than buying a near mower.
Awesome video, thanks Brian !
Excellent detail and R/R of the process. Just ordered parts for my K46 Craftsman and cam across your video series. Just in time while waiting for my parts!
Can't thank you enough. 👍 subscribed!
Right on! You're welcome!
Neighbor just gave me a L125 John deer rider. Transmission leaks oil. John deer told her to buy another one. Not sure where it's leaking from. But from where it's dripping it looks like it's leaking from the top somewhere. Any clues. Hope it's the pressure caps.
If they're overfilled it can leak from there, or the fan shaft seal on top.
3/18/23; 6 part video on JD K42 transaxle A+✅️. Great narration & camera closeups & lighting. Great job, very helpful info. Thx for your time & effort. Much enjoyed your 'can do'/no fear/let's do it'🔧⚙️💪 attitude! Stay safe & carry on!👍👏🍺😊
You didn't let it idle in low first for a few seconds then put the throttle up more and go
Thanks for the videos ,, gracias
@briansmobile1 thank you very much for the walkthrough. It was very detailed and helped me to feel comfortable enough to have a go at this. Was my first experience with a tractor or a transmission. Prior to getting started, the tractor was moving, just not very well. After opening it up and inspecting everything I came to the conclusion that the motor and pump needed replacement. I put the new parts in and assembled it using your videos every step of the way. However after mounting the trans and connecting the brake, accelerator and belt, with the rear end lifted off the ground while trying to purge the air, I could not get the transmission to engage. It feels like it wants to catch, I hear somewhat of a grinding noise that sounds like its coming from the front end followed by white smoke also coming from the front. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Sounds like the belt is rubbing or routed wrong in the front. Check clearances and check that the pulley rotation and routing is correct.
Thanks for your videos: Good Job!
Great to watch this, thank you
A JD employee said I should change the transmission fluid at 200 hours. He said if you are driving it for about 10 minutes and notice it getting slower. It’s the fluid losing it’s viscosity. A few videos on RUclips show how it’s done and usually rides like new again.
How do I know when I need to rebuild my transmission. The old expression that haunts me is, "if it works, don't fix it". My LX178 is around 21 years old. Is it normal when I move forward, I hear a weird sound? Not really a grinding sound, but a wining sound. That's when I'm moving forward real fast. If I slow the forward down, the wining goes away. Also; while you were rebuilding, how much oil do I put in? You didn't specify the quantity. Also, many have told me to use 90 wt. You had mentioned to use 5w50? Also, where am I filling the oil at? Where the hydrostatic oil fill goes?
I have a similar problem with a John Deere L120. No power. Unfortunately, Tuff Torq no longer sells the blocks. Just a "rebuild kit" which costs almost $400.
Need help figuring out what to replace in the transmission on a L110 tractor. Will not back up when cold. Once it’s warmed up runs normal forward and backwards.
@briansmobile1, awesome series, my mom and dad have an L111 with about 140 hours, wont climb hills anymore. I'm assuming it'll take the same o'haul that you did, going to take it apart next week. Thanks for taking the time to make the series. JD in Ontario CA wanted 700 for a new transmission and said these were sealed and non-repairable. Customer Service has gone to SH*&!
Be well,
toby
hi on me d100 the tran poorly is complete loose
Watched all 6 parts. Nicely explained, thank you. I'm about to remove a K46 box out of my WestWood (Countax/Ariens) W-Series, out front mower, zero turn. The right side drive axle snapped off, (couldn't find a video on axle replacement but you have explained alot!) I have new replacement axle to put in, who knows what I will find inside the box? as the machine has many hours on it, but it was working fine before the axle snapped!
Very good. Thanks. I just bought an LT160. Seems to be OK but a little slower in forward than maybe it should be. If I have problems I'll rebuild it. Good video, warts and all.
Great series thanks for the video, I think that I might be able to rework one of these transmissions now, well done!
Thank you!
Thanks so much for the 6 part videos. You gave me the information to diagnose and rebuild my K46 on my JD L130. On my rebuild I changed out both the motor pump and pressure pump. I just finished rebuilding, on my test drive everything works great, but once I run it over 45 minutes I'll know for sure. One question, I noticed my neutral sorta works, but still tough to push, you can definitely know the difference of when neutral is engaged or disengaged. Is this something that will get better as the pumps break in? Did you experience anything similar?
The K46 transmission you rebuilt is the exact same as mine. It started to leak fluid from one of the axles and stopped moving so I pulled it apart and replaced the axle seals. While I had it open I figured I would pull it apart, clean it and put new 5w 50 in it. Any way it moved for about 20 feet started whining again and stopped moving so I parked it and just started using another smaller 42" mower but it is slow and takes me forever to cut my grass. While I was in my driveway a couple of weeks ago I found a bearing and thought man I bet this goes inside my trans so I pulled it apart and pulled both vent tubes out, had springs but that was it, I kind of remember these falling out the first time and I thought a check ball fell out and I thought I put it back in. I contacted Tufftorq and they said that sense my spring had flanges that they did not get check balls they got filters. Was wondering if you might know anything about these two vent tubes. Thanks
Great job and very friendly narrative which keeps one engaged through a complicated subject. One question I have is : My mower is an L100 and just wondering if it is the same as the L118 that you demonstrated on. My does not have a pull lever on the rear of the mower (transmission). Is this by design or is it just missing? The L 100 is not automatic. Currently the mower will start but it will not go in gear???
Hey guys I need help last summer my John deere la175 would be fine mowing for first 20 ish minutes then it would start to loose power to the ground. I watched some videos and read a bunch on Google and it sounded like it here problem was a worn out pump and motor. I tore it all out and the pump and motor pistons are still pretty snug in there blocks. I did notice one of the ids valves on the side of the center block was stuck in so I worked it out and cleaned it up and put it back in. I'm really thinking about putting it all back together and trying it. Do you guys have any advice or help for me? I called tuff torq and they want me to spend almost $500 on a couple parts. That sounds redicules. The tractor was bought brand new by my uncle I do believe he's had it back to the dealer for maintenance as he's pretty particular about that stuff. But I bet it was the same junk oil they started with. Any help guys?
Hi Brian how many total hours did you have repairing your transmission. Including round 2 I am looking buying the same tractor with very low hours for $300.00 think I am going to buy and rebuild the transmission over the winter.
How much fluid did you put in the trans?
I bought a L 110 automatic and when you give gas to go forward it would go back ward, and giving gas for reverse it would go forward.. What do you think the problem could be... thanks Rick
does the air vent and fluid fill cap just snap into place or are they threaded. Trans on my used mower runs OK but I wanted to check fluid level but when I tried to remove the air vent the outer section Snapped off leaving black inner and white pin (vent). If its supposed to just pop out I'll likely pry the interior piece out and replace the entire air vent. was using a screw driver to attempt to pry it out when it broke. any suggestion appreciated.
Fantastic Brian. Just what I was looking for. I just got a new D130 with only 8 hours of grass cutting on it so far and I want to change to oil in the trans right away with 5 W 50 Syn. It this point I'll be just draining out the original oil and replacing it but I'm going to keep your vids on file in case I need to get inside and replace parts. Thanks for the great 6 part vids. Russ
Great video, I have a question though. LA120 overhauled transmission started out working great up step hills not a problem. Now I have the slightest hill and I can sit with pedal forward motion and I do not smell rubber like the belt get hot but then it takes off, like the belt is loose, I have new belt and pullys same effect, any suggestions?
After the gear and the pumps were replaced, when I press on the accelarator, the tractor is going backward instead of foward. What do you think is the problem? What is the solution? Thanks in advance!
Nice work the the series of videos! I bought mine from a guy that rammed ice and now the transmission slips. Spent $100 for the mower, weights, chains and plow. After watching your video I think I can fix the problem. Will let you know how it turns out.
The earlier post with the typos... It "Fell off" and Can't Thank you and your kind enough! I hate predictive spelling sometimes!
Excellent series. I would like to see a '96 Craftsman Lawn tractor transmission rebuild. There are thousands of them out there that need service, yet there is no good service videos for them.
great videos getting ready to work on a tuff torq k61 new holland, not so nervous now! auto zone sucks worked for both companies OReillys is better! thanks again.
Any links as to where you got parts for this?
FYI, That drive belt is ridiculously simple, if you lock the brake. Just lock the brake and the drive belt is very loose.
Great Video Series, Brian. Mine works good but doesn't have much speed forward. It feels like the pedal should go farther, but it won't. What do you think? Motor? Pump? Something else? Thanks.
Your video's are helpful. I'm trying to replace the S shaped pipe that goes from the engine to the muffler on my L110. Is there a way of getting that pipe in without lifting the engine off the base? I can get one side, either the top or the bottom, but I can't get both. I suspect I'll need to create some space so I can both ends in but I'm not sure and don't know the easiest way to do that.
Thanks,
Bob
Excellent series. Well done.