Bob you are a living legend in a world that has too few these days , I'm sitting in my used trailer that I pull with my used 2001 Chevy HD 4x4 with a freshly rebuilt engine for years of continued service, my only regret is that I didn't do this years ago... I've shed the stress ,shed useless junk id used to fill space I didn't need ..I was starving for the simple life and I didn't know it... But the out doors was what I needed ...I saw your video about living for free in a Van ..now I'm Happy over here myself ..I just wanted to thank you Bob...Thank You ..
>waving> Hi, Bob and Jim! Jim is currently working with me to figure out my solar system. I highly recommend his services! ~ Max wanted to be on the video! Hi, Max!
For the window above the air conditioner, you can put some cardboard, frost the window, or put aluminum foil to give some shade for the air conditioner. Great ideas, I love the thought process and can do attitude!
Thanks to both of you guys, although the VA is starving me for cash and pain relief, you've empowered me to tackle upgrading my 30 y/o motorhome, named Freedom, with solar and a/c.
Thanks for the tip. I was thinking about doing it to my emergency exit. Much better than other videos where they use gobs of foam in a can and make it look so ghetto
I've installed many window and sleeve A/C's .. problems usually center around proper venting, the hot air exits the back and you dont want it redirecting to the side vents, like to near a corner or bushes to close. I didnt catch how you set up in the cabinet, just make sure there is plenty of room temp air or below to blow on the heat exchanger, with a direct exit for the hot air, If it's dusty around there you can vacuum out the heat exchanger or the exterior can be removed and hose it out, taking care of the electronics. I have jury rigged baffles in cabinets to direct hot air outside. Thanks guys for another great video
Worth noting for anyone that tries to duplicate this install that not all rv emergency exit windows are 'hinged' like Jim's is; ... some are 'breakaway' windows that come completely off after the window is opened over 30% (I think that's the percentage). In other words, someone may need to replace the emergency exit window hinging before installing the a/c if they plan to take the unit in/out on a regular basis.
I would have liked to see how he installed the AC unit in his microwave spot. Interested in the venting and drainage of the unit. I went to his RUclips channel but he only has about 6 videos and the install for the AC unit is not there.
The guest, Jim, already had the one in the cabinet before he and Bob got together in Oregon this summer and filmed these current videos. The one for the bedroom window was just purchased right before these two videos. Jim knows soooo much about solar!
The newer window units don't drain water unless the humidity is extremely high, they use a slinger ring on the cooling fan that slings the water up on the condenser to improve efficiency. There may be some misting from this but if the condenser is out side (as it should be) you should be fine. If your flush or in a vented cabinet you may need a drip pan with a drain or a drip rail.
The perforated vinyl video was very helpful thank you for putting it up as I just started to watch your video's today. I used pool noodles on my window ac install and it makes the difference, a solar ac unit is GREAT oh my I did not know about it.
This is exactly what I, a 59yo woman living alone fulltime in my class a rv in southern Nevada, needed to watch! Thanks! Can’t afford the monthly electric bill for my 10,000 btu portable floor air conditioner, nor my manufacturer air conditioner in the ceiling, it works great but too noisy, as well. I’d rather have 2 5000 btu installed in each end instead. I also need to install solar. Love your furry son protesting there. 😂 Again, thanks!
thanks for another great how to video. I so need to get out of here and on the road so bad. The other people here, God bless'em are good people but I just need my own space
Love the video including Max (dog) giving his 2 cents. Please could you do a video how he closed the hole where his RV A/C was so that it doesn't leak? Also a video on how he put the one where the microwave was. That looked so finished off and pretty.
Thanks Bob & Jim! I'm in the planning stage of my van camper, and want an air conditioner to use only when parked near shore power. I'm thinking it could be good to install it on one of the back doors of the van, and then cover it with a dummy spare tire cover to hide it from view of passersby and keep it stealth when street parking.
Thank you for sharing this video. This is exactly what I'm going to do, and not so difficult. Just perfect.,.only have 1 question. The one installed where the microwave was..doesn't an air conditioner need a vent behind outside?
I have a was brand new 5000btu from Lowe's in March and it pulls 425 watts to start and I had to turn it down midday and I'm in a 34s Chevy bounder and does fine keeping drapes closed and insulation bord in roof vents and it been running 24/7 petty much since I got it and no issue I have 200watts of Renegy poly panels 4-12v agm's for 500ah as and victron 75/15 mppt controller. The ac was on sale for $100 plus tax in South Central va.
I haven't built this, but hope to one day. Don't see why this shouldn't work. Would work best on an extended length van. Buy three 300 watt solar panels and mount them long ways front to back (on a roof rack?) triple stacked and connected with heavy duty hinges spaced accordingly. The triple stack unfolds to three 300 watt panels with the outer two overlapping the edges of the van. For traveling, the panels fold and triple stack in the middle with the bottom center panel mounted up and the two outer panels facing down. Would have to experiment with possible rubber mats or something else between the panels for spacing and/or to prevent scratching or ? while traveling. No solar power while traveling because the panels are covered up, but a battery isolator (continuous duty solenoid) would solve that problem. Metal bars with holes drilled every couple inches connect the center panel to the outer ones (with bolts and wingnuts) along the outer frame allowing inclination of the outer panels. Imagine the center panel flat (duh) but one side has the panel tilted up a bit and the other side down a bit in order to better catch the sun's rays. Tilt as necessary to follow the sun. If you have an extended van, you could put six panels up there (1800 watts...and go fully electric...no propane!) and still have room for a fan, but a regular van could easily put one triple stack (900 watts) up top. 300 watt panels are roughly 40" x 65". Now, for the inside...and this works best for an extended van...build an insulated wall across the back of the van separating the living space from the garage. Mount your AC unit in that wall. The garage need only steal 15-18" or so from the living space. Get one of these back door props that will crack your back doors, yet allow you to lock them (as I understand it) www.ebay.com/itm/Sprinter-NCV3-Rear-Door-Prop-/142614771385 Its only $25 on Ebay. I assume they make them for other vans too. Having your back doors open (but locked...I think) allows necessary airflow to remove the heat generated by the back of the AC unit. Worried about rain while the door is cracked? String a tarp from your roof rack and stake it in the ground at about a 45 degree angle so the back door crack is covered, but air still can flow. Don't want to crack your doors and tarp it? Fine...ventilate the garage with a roof top fan and some vent holes in the floor of the van...that should move enough air to remove the AC heat. A window AC unit would work fine for this, but I'm thinking a mini split AC unit might be more efficient energy wise...and it's supposed to be quieter.
Hey Mike! Good to hear from you again. Check out a poster below and RUclipsr called MrRickyBill. He has a one of a kind van powered by 660 watts of solar and lithium batteries. He installed a through the wall AC unit which is constructed differently and only requires the back panel exposed to air flow. 95% of the unit is inside his van.
Mike Mead....Yeah...that really was a "money is no object build". Six lithium batteries...that's thou$and$ right there...and that electric 13 gallon hot water tank! Microwave, computer, induction stove, lights...I wonder if he has electric heat too...I think his batteries are the key to doing this as I'm surprised he could do it with "only" 660 watts of solar. Something to aspire to for sure. Loved that folding swing out table and the extra long nozzle/hose sink faucet...he had a bunch of great ideas. Bob Wells needs to track this guy down and get a van tour video so his ideas can get some more exposure...MrRickyBill only has a few hundred subscribers and views.
Hey! I have a question; have you ever seen a bigfoot/sasquatch in your travels? If so, you should do a video of that. I'm not seeing that you have so just making a suggestion. Enjoy your channel.
I'll let you in a little secret I discovered by accident. If you take an R410a a/c and convert it to R134a, it will use half the electricity. R152a even less (but it's somewhat flammable). My example is a 6200 btu GE unit. Draw on 410a was around 600 watts, on R134a 300-330 watts, R152a 270-300 watts. At 78°F (inside temp) it blows 58°F. To convert you just need a bullet piercing valve (I think it was $3.00) charge until the low side pressure is about 45 psi and viola. The saving comes from the required high side pressure being much lower, less load on the compressor. The higher wattages quoted are when the heat index is over 100 °F outside.
No, I was referring to refrigerant pressures. You have to know how to use a set of gauges and a vacuum pump, also you should add some pag oil for the compressor. HVAC type knowledge and tools required. R410a, R134a and R152a are types of refrigerant used in a/c systems.
Thanks Scott! I would not touch this project myself, no. I saved the info you shared. I will let a qualified pro do it (if you're in Central Fla, it can be you, ha!). Fascinating tip!!!
Ok, so I'm new to campers, and I'm looking at living full time in a truck camper in an RV park with my two pets while I go to school. In the meantime, I am still in an apartment for which I bought an air conditioner which reads "115 V 10A". Would I be able to run this air conditioner off RV park power hook up? I still haven't learned the whole RV electric conversion/inversion system yet. Thank you for your WONDERFUL channel!!!
Very impressive but half the things you did are like a foreign language to me which is why when I'm ready I will have someone like you or Jim or Jamie from enigmatic nomadics do my electrical stuff..ive been looking at some 305 watt panels but now going to look up those Panasonic 330's..they even look more narrow than the 305's I was looking at. I have a conversion van..curved top n will prob have to put racks on the roof as well which does not make me happy...i will also have a couple hundred watts of portable panels..cant afford lithium but will do agm for sure..not sure if 6v golf cart or 12v is better..i hear diff from all diff ppl...once I'm ready I will prob just go with the best deal at the time..take care..will keep watching ya..oh..and I like ur ac set up as well..
I had a 400 square ft bedroom and a 5000 btu a.c. and it cooled my room off wonderfully even in 100 degree heat..so 5000 btu in 70 sq ft van would prob freeze me out..wish they made 2 or 3000 btu..and much smaller..i may get the kind that has the hose on it that you put out the window..it also has heat..not equipped to run anything like that right now..im struggling right now just to get some kind of a campstove but someday I will be..by spring I hope..
I am interested in how you installed and vented the A/C unit in the forward cabinet. I do not want to install and remove the unit every time. I am building a 7x16 cargo trailer and have plenty of room in an upper cabinet and wish to install it internally so no portion is sticking out past the outside of the trailer wall. Of course, proper side to side, and top spacing is a concern. Can you please shed some light on that install?
How does the one in the microwave cupboard vent outside, or is there already a vent there? Also, can you suggest a way to make the window one secure? I am a single woman who has to leave her pets at home. Thank you for posting this video!
Hi Bob, I enjoy your videos very much. Have you come across anyone who has installed a mini-split ac in their RV? Can the mini-split run off solar as well? Thanks!
He needs to screw that retainer board to the window frame so it isn't loose when he puts the AC unit in or take it out. It also might be a good idea to screw the AC unit to the board once it is in place. More work for taking the unit in and out but worth the added effort. Thanks. Think I'm gonna get one of those $150 units. We are in a miserable heat wave now in the middle of a hot summer. It's been up to 112 degrees Fahrenheit and up to 108 degrees or higher for several days in a row. No fun in a trailer. The unit it comes with simply isn't sufficient at midday (you can barely breathe) although it makes it very cold overnight. Window insulation helps a lot. At least we have power at the park we're in at present. Looking forward to some added cooling because it is going to be hotter than hell all the way into September, and I fear, beyond it too.
Bruce, not really. For a 450 watt AC unit that is located 10 feet away from the battery bank, it would take about an 8 gauge wire, which isn't that big.
Yes, it makes a difference, but I consider that an acceptable loss. Personally, I would go bigger since the AC will be running a lot. And since the inverter is at least 2000 watts even 3000, and that inverter will be used for other things, I would go with 4/0. That is huge wire, but it's worth it in my opinion. I use 4/0.
What about the use of portable air conditioner's with the exhaust hose that attaches to the window without special modifications? Easier to pack up or hide away from thieves and use on the open road.
Had to give it a thumbs down although I like both of these guys. Taking the easy install by blocking the fire escape is..well..unacceptable..even short term. Please don't tell me in the event of a fire it would easily be removed. In fires---"seconds count". In my opinion promoting this installation type is a really bad idea. -Best. -hg
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Bob you are a living legend in a world that has too few these days , I'm sitting in my used trailer that I pull with my used 2001 Chevy HD 4x4 with a freshly rebuilt engine for years of continued service, my only regret is that I didn't do this years ago... I've shed the stress ,shed useless junk id used to fill space I didn't need ..I was starving for the simple life and I didn't know it... But the out doors was what I needed ...I saw your video about living for free in a Van ..now I'm Happy over here myself ..I just wanted to thank you Bob...Thank You ..
Lovely testimony @tom wright! Very inspiring.
>waving> Hi, Bob and Jim! Jim is currently working with me to figure out my solar system. I highly recommend his services! ~ Max wanted to be on the video! Hi, Max!
For the window above the air conditioner, you can put some cardboard, frost the window, or put aluminum foil to give some shade for the air conditioner.
Great ideas, I love the thought process and can do attitude!
Thanks so much for this idea. I shared your video with my friend and he duplicated your idea & we are no longer suffering!!!
Thanks to both of you guys, although the VA is starving me for cash and pain relief, you've empowered me to tackle upgrading my 30 y/o motorhome, named Freedom, with solar and a/c.
Thanks for the tip. I was thinking about doing it to my emergency exit. Much better than other videos where they use gobs of foam in a can and make it look so ghetto
I've installed many window and sleeve A/C's .. problems usually center around proper venting, the hot air exits the back and you dont want it redirecting to the side vents, like to near a corner or bushes to close. I didnt catch how you set up in the cabinet, just make sure there is plenty of room temp air or below to blow on the heat exchanger, with a direct exit for the hot air, If it's dusty around there you can vacuum out the heat exchanger or the exterior can be removed and hose it out, taking care of the electronics. I have jury rigged baffles in cabinets to direct hot air outside.
Thanks guys for another great video
Jim reminds me of John Wayne. I hope to meet up with Jim at the RTR if not sooner to help me get my solar sorted out.
Bob, you and Jim put together some great videos. I watch 'em more than once. Thanks!
I love your videos Bob! You always come up with easy solutions, that I could do myself! 😀
Worth noting for anyone that tries to duplicate this install that not all rv emergency exit windows are 'hinged' like Jim's is; ... some are 'breakaway' windows that come completely off after the window is opened over 30% (I think that's the percentage). In other words, someone may need to replace the emergency exit window hinging before installing the a/c if they plan to take the unit in/out on a regular basis.
Love Max! He can been your channel spokesman!
Seems like everyone has there needs. A good refrigerator a nice toilet or air-conditioning. Great video 👍👍👍
Smart on not keeping it plugged in when not in use, the LEDs and panels can be vampire drains!
Great video as always Bob!!! I've learned so much from all your helpful videos! Thanks for your time!!! 😊
I put those cheap cooking grille over the fins on the ac to protect them from getting bent
hey Bob,, hope everything is well, Jim seems very knowledgeable about solar, good 411 video as usual, tc
Great job. I like that you can keep your dog cool when going into store s
Nice work Jim
GREAT video Bob, Something I'm interested in.
Makes sense to move the AC unit when you move. Thanks for an interesting and informative video.
I would have liked to see how he installed the AC unit in his microwave spot. Interested in the venting and drainage of the unit. I went to his RUclips channel but he only has about 6 videos and the install for the AC unit is not there.
It will be soon. But, I think he did the one in the microwave spot a while back before this.
Who...Bob or the guest?
The guest, Jim, already had the one in the cabinet before he and Bob got together in Oregon this summer and filmed these current videos. The one for the bedroom window was just purchased right before these two videos. Jim knows soooo much about solar!
The newer window units don't drain water unless the humidity is extremely high, they use a slinger ring on the cooling fan that slings the water up on the condenser to improve efficiency. There may be some misting from this but if the condenser is out side (as it should be) you should be fine. If your flush or in a vented cabinet you may need a drip pan with a drain or a drip rail.
Thanks @Traveling Gambler, I was just about to go looking for it too.
The perforated vinyl video was very helpful thank you for putting it up as I just started to watch your video's today. I used pool noodles on my window ac install and it makes the difference, a solar ac unit is GREAT oh my I did not know about it.
I'd really like to see how he ducted/vented that unit in the cupboard.
This is exactly what I, a 59yo woman living alone fulltime in my class a rv in southern Nevada, needed to watch! Thanks! Can’t afford the monthly electric bill for my 10,000 btu portable floor air conditioner, nor my manufacturer air conditioner in the ceiling, it works great but too noisy, as well. I’d rather have 2 5000 btu installed in each end instead. I also need to install solar. Love your furry son protesting there. 😂 Again, thanks!
Good job as usual Jim! Cool.😜
thanks for another great how to video. I so need to get out of here and on the road so bad. The other people here, God bless'em are good people but I just need my own space
I've seen this mounted in a van drivers side window the exact same way. It seemed to work out pretty good.
Love the video including Max (dog) giving his 2 cents. Please could you do a video how he closed the hole where his RV A/C was so that it doesn't leak? Also a video on how he put the one where the microwave was. That looked so finished off and pretty.
Good to se the AC unit on the shady side if the trailer.
Thanks Bob & Jim! I'm in the planning stage of my van camper, and want an air conditioner to use only when parked near shore power. I'm thinking it could be good to install it on one of the back doors of the van, and then cover it with a dummy spare tire cover to hide it from view of passersby and keep it stealth when street parking.
Thank you for sharing this video. This is exactly what I'm going to do, and not so difficult. Just perfect.,.only have 1 question. The one installed where the microwave was..doesn't an air conditioner need a vent behind outside?
A bit off topic I know but. . . . I like Jim's shirt :-)
I have a was brand new 5000btu from Lowe's in March and it pulls 425 watts to start and I had to turn it down midday and I'm in a 34s Chevy bounder and does fine keeping drapes closed and insulation bord in roof vents and it been running 24/7 petty much since I got it and no issue
I have 200watts of Renegy poly panels
4-12v agm's for 500ah as and victron 75/15 mppt controller.
The ac was on sale for $100 plus tax in South Central va.
Can I ask what size and brand inverter you have?
I haven't built this, but hope to one day. Don't see why this shouldn't work. Would work best on an extended length van. Buy three 300 watt solar panels and mount them long ways front to back (on a roof rack?) triple stacked and connected with heavy duty hinges spaced accordingly. The triple stack unfolds to three 300 watt panels with the outer two overlapping the edges of the van. For traveling, the panels fold and triple stack in the middle with the bottom center panel mounted up and the two outer panels facing down. Would have to experiment with possible rubber mats or something else between the panels for spacing and/or to prevent scratching or ? while traveling. No solar power while traveling because the panels are covered up, but a battery isolator (continuous duty solenoid) would solve that problem. Metal bars with holes drilled every couple inches connect the center panel to the outer ones (with bolts and wingnuts) along the outer frame allowing inclination of the outer panels. Imagine the center panel flat (duh) but one side has the panel tilted up a bit and the other side down a bit in order to better catch the sun's rays. Tilt as necessary to follow the sun.
If you have an extended van, you could put six panels up there (1800 watts...and go fully electric...no propane!) and still have room for a fan, but a regular van could easily put one triple stack (900 watts) up top. 300 watt panels are roughly 40" x 65".
Now, for the inside...and this works best for an extended van...build an insulated wall across the back of the van separating the living space from the garage. Mount your AC unit in that wall. The garage need only steal 15-18" or so from the living space. Get one of these back door props that will crack your back doors, yet allow you to lock them (as I understand it) www.ebay.com/itm/Sprinter-NCV3-Rear-Door-Prop-/142614771385 Its only $25 on Ebay. I assume they make them for other vans too. Having your back doors open (but locked...I think) allows necessary airflow to remove the heat generated by the back of the AC unit. Worried about rain while the door is cracked? String a tarp from your roof rack and stake it in the ground at about a 45 degree angle so the back door crack is covered, but air still can flow. Don't want to crack your doors and tarp it? Fine...ventilate the garage with a roof top fan and some vent holes in the floor of the van...that should move enough air to remove the AC heat. A window AC unit would work fine for this, but I'm thinking a mini split AC unit might be more efficient energy wise...and it's supposed to be quieter.
Hey Mike! Good to hear from you again. Check out a poster below and RUclipsr called MrRickyBill. He has a one of a kind van powered by 660 watts of solar and lithium batteries. He installed a through the wall AC unit which is constructed differently and only requires the back panel exposed to air flow. 95% of the unit is inside his van.
Mike Mead....Yeah...that really was a "money is no object build". Six lithium batteries...that's thou$and$ right there...and that electric 13 gallon hot water tank! Microwave, computer, induction stove, lights...I wonder if he has electric heat too...I think his batteries are the key to doing this as I'm surprised he could do it with "only" 660 watts of solar. Something to aspire to for sure. Loved that folding swing out table and the extra long nozzle/hose sink faucet...he had a bunch of great ideas. Bob Wells needs to track this guy down and get a van tour video so his ideas can get some more exposure...MrRickyBill only has a few hundred subscribers and views.
Hey! I have a question; have you ever seen a bigfoot/sasquatch in your travels? If so, you should do a video of that. I'm not seeing that you have so just making a suggestion. Enjoy your channel.
He is amazing!
I'll let you in a little secret I discovered by accident. If you take an R410a a/c and convert it to R134a, it will use half the electricity. R152a even less (but it's somewhat flammable). My example is a 6200 btu GE unit. Draw on 410a was around 600 watts, on R134a 300-330 watts, R152a 270-300 watts. At 78°F (inside temp) it blows 58°F. To convert you just need a bullet piercing valve (I think it was $3.00) charge until the low side pressure is about 45 psi and viola. The saving comes from the required high side pressure being much lower, less load on the compressor. The higher wattages quoted are when the heat index is over 100 °F outside.
Wow. THANKS! So the only difference is the intake air pressure being lower?
No, I was referring to refrigerant pressures. You have to know how to use a set of gauges and a vacuum pump, also you should add some pag oil for the compressor. HVAC type knowledge and tools required. R410a, R134a and R152a are types of refrigerant used in a/c systems.
Thanks Scott! I would not touch this project myself, no. I saved the info you shared. I will let a qualified pro do it (if you're in Central Fla, it can be you, ha!). Fascinating tip!!!
Thanks for the informative video!
Ok, so I'm new to campers, and I'm looking at living full time in a truck camper in an RV park with my two pets while I go to school. In the meantime, I am still in an apartment for which I bought an air conditioner which reads "115 V 10A". Would I be able to run this air conditioner off RV park power hook up? I still haven't learned the whole RV electric conversion/inversion system yet. Thank you for your WONDERFUL channel!!!
Thank you gentlemen.
Thank you for the video!
For the ac in the cabinet how did he vent and drain it outside?
What about taking out the window opening gear arms etc??
Great job guys!!!!
A air conditioner is a dehumidifier as long as the air conditioner is not too big for the space it's in
this is a video I have always wanted to see
I use a "thru-the-wall" A/C unit rather than a "window" A/C unit in my rig. That way, it barely needs to extend outside of the rig.
MrRickyBill whats that?
Check my channel. You can see it installed there.
MrRickyBill thank you..i sure will..✌😊
Very impressive but half the things you did are like a foreign language to me which is why when I'm ready I will have someone like you or Jim or Jamie from enigmatic nomadics do my electrical stuff..ive been looking at some 305 watt panels but now going to look up those Panasonic 330's..they even look more narrow than the 305's I was looking at.
I have a conversion van..curved top n will prob have to put racks on the roof as well which does not make me happy...i will also have a couple hundred watts of portable panels..cant afford lithium but will do agm for sure..not sure if 6v golf cart or 12v is better..i hear diff from all diff ppl...once I'm ready I will prob just go with the best deal at the time..take care..will keep watching ya..oh..and I like ur ac set up as well..
WOW. I hope Bob @CheapRVLiving sees that van!
Very smart
I had a 400 square ft bedroom and a 5000 btu a.c. and it cooled my room off wonderfully even in 100 degree heat..so 5000 btu in 70 sq ft van would prob freeze me out..wish they made 2 or 3000 btu..and much smaller..i may get the kind that has the hose on it that you put out the window..it also has heat..not equipped to run anything like that right now..im struggling right now just to get some kind of a campstove but someday I will be..by spring I hope..
Have you tried Offer Up and Craigslist to find a good used camp stove? I found a Coleman 3 burner which uses the white gas for $10. It works great.
My thinking as well @CherBear! I have 60 Sq Ft to cool and a 5K BTU stuck in a window. HAS to be a better way.
Do you know what brand it was , I'm in the market for one
Great video and information.
I am interested in how you installed and vented the A/C unit in the forward cabinet. I do not want to install and remove the unit every time. I am building a 7x16 cargo trailer and have plenty of room in an upper cabinet and wish to install it internally so no portion is sticking out past the outside of the trailer wall. Of course, proper side to side, and top spacing is a concern. Can you please shed some light on that install?
Whrres the video show how u built yhe ac unit in old microwave spot
Well , I’m from a Alaska, love ur shirt 🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼
I have a 1.5 watt solar panel . is there an inverter to run a 10 watt fan ? Or do I need a 10 watt solar panel ?
How does the one in the microwave cupboard vent outside, or is there already a vent there? Also, can you suggest a way to make the window one secure? I am a single woman who has to leave her pets at home. Thank you for posting this video!
Thanks finding an air conditioner you can run on solar.
You never mentioned the bracket on top of it, where you got it from, how you added it to the unit?
Hi Bob, I enjoy your videos very much. Have you come across anyone who has installed a mini-split ac in their RV? Can the mini-split run off solar as well?
Thanks!
No, much more electric needed...
Great video
Great vid great info!
He needs to screw that retainer board to the window frame so it isn't loose when he puts the AC unit in or take it out. It also might be a good idea to screw the AC unit to the board once it is in place. More work for taking the unit in and out but worth the added effort. Thanks. Think I'm gonna get one of those $150 units. We are in a miserable heat wave now in the middle of a hot summer. It's been up to 112 degrees Fahrenheit and up to 108 degrees or higher for several days in a row. No fun in a trailer. The unit it comes with simply isn't sufficient at midday (you can barely breathe) although it makes it very cold overnight. Window insulation helps a lot. At least we have power at the park we're in at present. Looking forward to some added cooling because it is going to be hotter than hell all the way into September, and I fear, beyond it too.
Wow, to have the AC in the wall of a cargo will keep it quiet=stealth!
Can one not rest the window on the ac?
Thank you
Why does Europe has 12 volt DC air conditioners but we only have 120 VAC and need to run an inverter?
Considering an A/C requires a lot of power relative to most 12V items in an RV, wouldn't a 12V A/C require some large gauge wiring?
Bruce, not really. For a 450 watt AC unit that is located 10 feet away from the battery bank, it would take about an 8 gauge wire, which isn't that big.
Yes, it makes a difference, but I consider that an acceptable loss. Personally, I would go bigger since the AC will be running a lot. And since the inverter is at least 2000 watts even 3000, and that inverter will be used for other things, I would go with 4/0. That is huge wire, but it's worth it in my opinion. I use 4/0.
What mountain is that in the background? Beautiful.
should lean back 1 degree to drain condensate, but still provide for cooling of condnser...
Awsome!
800 watts solar daily. If run overnight would need what?
Nice to be cool
Dee Pestanio 😎.. and have A/C. 😉
$999 ? One that is similar is Amazon. Mispriced or price gauging
What about the use of portable air conditioner's with the exhaust hose that attaches to the window without special modifications? Easier to pack up or hide away from thieves and use on the open road.
Why not remove the unit from the inside? Looks to be a struggle from the outside.
Once he does that a few more times he's ready for a new ac.
Has anyone tried a ductless system in an RV?
unplug the unit before attempting removal...
Its A/C Jesus!
"How to install"- It's just balancing.... okaaaay
A lady would have a hard time install a/c that way because of weight. ladies would be better off with perminant install...
💜😇💜
Jim likes to show off thoses dental implants.
Had to give it a thumbs down although I like both of these guys. Taking the easy install by blocking the fire escape is..well..unacceptable..even short term. Please don't tell me in the event of a fire it would easily be removed. In fires---"seconds count". In my opinion promoting this installation type is a really bad idea. -Best. -hg
Harvey Gordon, I do understand that.
I like the idea, I'd rather burn than sweat my butt off.
I can flip my AC out faster than navigate the window release.
with the one that in the kitchen, where does the water drip out to?
Thank you