That's really well done. I made a mount for window ac in my boler trailer a few years ago. Mine is really simple though. I just cut some plywood the same size as the window screen that pops out. I cut a square in the plywood to fit the ac into. The plywood then just slides into the slot for the screen and the ac slides in the hole. Not as good as yours but it works.i only have to remove the lower jalhousie window pane which is just 4 screws. The top pane stays on and redirects any rain.
I've watched this several times and think it's very well thought out. However, I'm thinking that it will be quite difficult to have a conversation at the table when the AC is running.
Thank you for watching my video! That's a good concern when running an AC in a small space. The one we use in our 2020 Scamp 13' (shown in this video) is an energy efficient 5,000 BTU Frigidaire FFRE053WAE. The dBA rating on this unit is between 52dBA (low) - 55 dBA (high). Google says "sounds between 31 - 60 dB are considered quiet. 55 dB is similar to the sound of a quiet home, a residential street, or a normal conversation." However, any noise in a small space is noticeable (including this AC which you can hear in the video), so one needs to weigh the choice of either being uncomfortably hot or hearing the noise of the AC. The ideal situation would be camping in good weather and not having to run a heater or AC.
Brilliant. Cheaper AC. Ability to replace in the future with relative ease. Better match of BTU to camper's rather small cooling needs than the behemoth offered as an option. Lower air drag footprint too boot. Thank you very much. Now to order a Scamp without AC.
Thank you. I had been working a similar idea out in my head when I came across your video. With a few modifications your plans should work out perfectly on my MINI DROP trailer. Love all the details on your web site.
This is giving me so many good ideas. Thank you! I have a shuttle bus RV conversion project and was wanting to put a window AC unit in the side emergency exit window. I think I can adapt something very similar to this to fit my needs.
Don't rule out using a mini split if you want a permanent solution. They are definitely more expensive, but in my opinion are easier to modify to install as you only need to drill a small hole in your camper to run the coolant line through. Mr Cool brand has prefilled lines so you don't need a professional to charge the system. Once you screw the lines in, and open the valve, the system is charged. There are lots of videos of people installing them in RVs. You are also not restricted to using a 5k BTU or 6k BTU window unit. You can get a mini split in 12k BTU that will outperform most 15k BTU roof mounted a/c's. Also the mini splits are so efficient on power (they usually use 1/3 of the power of roof mounted a/cs) that many people have installed 2,000 watts worth of solar panels (four 500 watts panels on the roof) and like four deep cycle batteries, and powered the mini split 100% off solar power. Then you can boondock camp and still have a/c without a generator.
Great video. Going to start on mine soon. Just one question, I saw you trace the opening of the inside sandwich portion. Should that be the size of the air conditioning unit (plus the width of the bottom platform) that will be installed?
Thank you. The cutout hole of the sandwich should be the height and width of both the AC unit and the bottom platform it sits on (and a small amount of extra room for some margin of error) since both occupy space in the pass through hole. I traced so both sandwich cut outs are the same size with the same size opening to allow the AC back to pass through both sandwich pieces while sitting on the platform. Does that make sense?
Nice video but it would have been really nice to see how cool you could get it inside there with it 100 degrees outside. Most RVs have a 13,500 btu a/c on top at minimum. Now I understand yours is a lot smaller, but I would bet this is a 5k btu window unit, and in 100+ degree weather it would have been interesting to see if you could get it to at least 72 degrees in there during the hottest part of the day. Wish you had shown the temp later on the remote while it's still 100 out.
Thank you! Great point! I should have done that. I can tell you that it got cold inside within about 15 minutes and I adjusted the temperature so blankets weren't necessary. The Scamp 13' is small inside, so this solution works really well.
Ya know, there’s always a “Debbie Doubter”, instead of talking about a potential problem, why don’t you instead offer a solution?, wow, what a concept 👍🏻
Looks excellent for dry weather. I can see how you will not be able to use it during rains. Where does it drain to? I'd hate to lose the space indoors storing all the stuff so my choice would probably lean toward a permanent installation. In such an installation cold would be an issue, but a box shape of well glued and taped insulation panels might do the trick. Just a theory. Anybody have any experience in such?
@scampgrounds - great work. Your video shows people how a little imagination and some common tools can solve a HUGE problem of energy demand, efficiency, for the small cost of a few minutes after reaching the camp site. Experience with this concept - yes. This concept works SUPERBLY for the motivated. There are many variations of the custom frame system depending on one's imagination. How one makes the portable window frame can take several forms. I am incorporating some of what I see here into my next custom fit AC. These can be made to be as weather resistant as one's imagination and persistence with incorporating weather sealing at top and sides on the outside flat piece as one wants to. My last one of these also finished it all out, four coats of good quality polyurethane and it was indestructible. Made one of these in concept for my truck camper with a false tail gate that could be installed in less than 2 minutes and not a single drop of water could get in with a water hose on high pressure on the system. Between weather sealing strips between wood frame and RV skin, using rubber "flaps" mounted at the right locations under aluminum flat stock, into the top of exterior frame that sheds water, and providing a small plastic tray underneath the lower wood shelf, it all works. Is just up to one's imagination and time to perfect the system customized for the window opening. Am in design of our new 5th wheel, told the OEM designer to delete both 13,500 btu roof top ACs, will use the already provided windows that open out and up as the GE 5000 btu window unit locations (we have other egress doors to porches etc and the toy hauler rear), lowers electrical consumption massively to 450W per unit running continuously on Lo Cool (which they will cycle to fan mode), 100W when cycling to fan, 750W on Hi Cool, and will freeze you out of a trailer easily. The 32'L 5th wheel roof now has two less 14" SQ holes in the roof, moved the kitchen vent to the side and the roof is wide open for the install of ten 200W solar panels or six 450W panels mounted on aluminum unistrut. Bottom line is this concept when coupled with a robust battery bank, is superb. Wil take down in minutes and the window (in our case) will flip down and seal - then on the road. The little 5000 btu units are so energy efficient, cost $150 +/-, very durable, and operate superbly in high humidity and high temperatures, ..... is a no-brainer.
@@scampgrounds Very expensive down here ( no less than 550$ dollars for 5000btu ) . The cheapest are portable units but they consume too much watts and create vacuum (single hose evacuation).
@@fbezza Sounds like you are on top of it. Best way to go, if possible, is to plan trip locations when weather isn't too hot or cold. We like to go to the beaches and mountains in the summer and the temps are usually very comfortable and don't require AC (we live in California). But, sometimes, it's great having AC (especially during heat waves).
Nice setup. I am going to do something similar once I take delivery of my 13 ft Scamp. I forgo the roof ac for the same reason to be able to store inside my garage. BTW, any idea of the actual weight of the AC unit? There seem to be big discrepancy on the unit weight from website to website. Thanks
Thank you. It's worked out really well (fast setup at the campsite and cools quickly in high heat environments)-- we just take it along when we know we will need it and have an electrical hookup. The AC weighs 43lbs on my business scale (I weighed it because I saw the same discrepancies online between Amazon and the manufacturer specs.). I have more details on my website: scampgrounds.com/small-travel-trailer-mini-air-conditioner-mount-for-rear-window-temporary/ Congratulations on your upcoming Scamp!
@@scampgrounds Thanks for the quick reply. Did you consider the one with mechanical control? The mechanical one weighs about 35lb according to Frigidaire and home depot website, which is about 8lb lighter. Of course, you lose the remote and eco mode.
@@travelhawk7895 Sure. Yes -- I seriously considered the more basic one without the remote / electronic controls. Because of all the discrepancies in weight online, I didn't really know the weight differences when I ordered -- I figured it probably wouldn't be significant. Having an electronic remote vs. manual control is no big deal -- because the Scamp is small inside. However, the electronic control one is Energy Star Certified -- which could be significant if you ever want to run the AC with batteries. I contacted Jackery (I have a Jackery 500) and the tech told me this AC would run 3.5 hours with their Explorer 1500 (mine is the 500 which he said not to use to run the AC). An electric car with V2L, like the Hyundai Ioniq 5, could potentially power this AC as well. Additionally, I noticed the basic one is about 2 inches deeper -- so that was a factor. Overall, I think either would be fine. I have a helper to help me put the AC in my Scamp when we set up, so the weight is no problem at all. But, I think an older person camping by themselves would benefit from the basic one which is 8 pounds lighter (when you are lifting by yourself, 8 pounds can make a difference). I don't think the weight is a physical issue for a new Scamp when you support the AC with the leg that rests on the bumper (some people even mount without the leg -- but, I wanted to be extra conservative). Looks like the prices (sub $200) are good right now!
@@scampgrounds thanks for your thoughtful and detailed response. I enjoyed watching your videos and reading the content on your website. Keep documenting your travel and your work on scamp. They are invaluable to other scampers. 👍
Can you stand up in that camper and if so is your garage door a standard height, I am looking for a tiny camper I can stand up in and will fit into my garage
Yes I can easily stand up inside my 2020 Scamp 13' -- the interior height is 6'3". Our garage height was 7' tall and we raised it to 8' tall so our Scamp will fit inside. Some people report they are able to fit their Scamp under a 7' height garage opening by lowering tire pressure or taking tires off, but I didn't want to do that and couldn't verify that would work for our garage. The angel entry (e.g. slope of driveway into garage) may also have an effect on clearance. For much more detailed information, see my article: scampgrounds.com/why-how-we-fit-our-scamp-in-the-garage/
Oh neat I will see the article and I like campers that fit into a garage@@scampgrounds I have been building teardrop campers because they fit into a garage but now I like to have a stand up camper that fits. Subscribed thank you
I've only used it in really hot weather in California (no rain) so I can't say for sure. But, I think if insulation is used around the edges so it is well sealed, rain leakage shouldn't be significant. The nice thing is that it can be quickly dissembled and the window shut if there was a serious storm.
I didn't, but that's a good idea if one is doing trips to hot places with rain. We seldom encounter that kind of condition on the West Coast. If it's raining, it's usually cool and we don't have the AC in the Window. It only takes a few minutes to remove, so if there is unexpected rain the AC can be quickly stored in the car.
I ordered our Scamp from the factory (2020 Scamp 13') and was given the option of adding many 110v outlets (they have many locations that are available). I think I went for all the outlet options -- one on the floor under the rear window, and rear ones on both wall sides facing the kitchen dinette. These outlets only work though when the Scamp is hooked up to an electric outlet at the campsite (or if there is a generator). So, when we run this AC we always have to stay at a place with electric hookups (since we don't travel with a generator).
Put a 400Ah Li battery on your camper with a portable suitcase style (put your own piano hinges on some 200W panels for up to an 800W solar capacity with the RV tilt brackets you can buy or make). Couple that with a Champion 2500W dual fuel portable generator (use LP and forget gas) and you are off grid. Depending on your roof space available, a couple 450W panels and you are set. For my truck camper set up, I coupled with this set up with a Renogy 3000W PSW inverter and 40A Li battery charger as just another source of charging. Will set you free. If you are going to the next level, (YOU) can install an ATS (which will sense shore, generator, solar and take care of getting power to your outlets and appliances, ... but not necessary to get going for your off grid solution. Flip on the inverter when you need the 120V and flip it off when you don't. Hopefully this gives you some ideas ! @@scampgrounds
No -- I just made the one in the video for my Scamp 13' and have been using it successfully for a while. But, if you go to my website above or follow the video you should easily be able to make one for your trailer (or hire a handyman to do it). It's fairly simple and not very expensive to make.
That's the best window ac box I ever saw fabricated.
Thanks!😊
I think this a better idea than the rooftop AC, even if you have the room. These little ones are more efficient.
It's also nice not having the extra drag on the roof and weight on trips when AC isn't needed.
This is a great idea. I'm getting ideas for an enclosed trailer build and will have to use the idea. Thanks
Thank you! Good luck on your build.
Super helpful, and you are a gifted carpenter.
Thank you!
What a creative idea! Love it, good job! 👍
Thank you!
That's really well done. I made a mount for window ac in my boler trailer a few years ago. Mine is really simple though. I just cut some plywood the same size as the window screen that pops out. I cut a square in the plywood to fit the ac into. The plywood then just slides into the slot for the screen and the ac slides in the hole. Not as good as yours but it works.i only have to remove the lower jalhousie window pane which is just 4 screws. The top pane stays on and redirects any rain.
Thanks for checking out my video and kind words! As long as it works, that's all that really matters!
Thank you for the detailed information.
I like it ! , I made one for my CTC Thank you.
Congratulations! Thank you!
I've watched this several times and think it's very well thought out. However, I'm thinking that it will be quite difficult to have a conversation at the table when the AC is running.
Thank you for watching my video! That's a good concern when running an AC in a small space. The one we use in our 2020 Scamp 13' (shown in this video) is an energy efficient 5,000 BTU Frigidaire FFRE053WAE. The dBA rating on this unit is between 52dBA (low) - 55 dBA (high). Google says "sounds between 31 - 60 dB are considered quiet. 55 dB is similar to the sound of a quiet home, a residential street, or a normal conversation." However, any noise in a small space is noticeable (including this AC which you can hear in the video), so one needs to weigh the choice of either being uncomfortably hot or hearing the noise of the AC. The ideal situation would be camping in good weather and not having to run a heater or AC.
Brilliant. Cheaper AC. Ability to replace in the future with relative ease. Better match of BTU to camper's rather small cooling needs than the behemoth offered as an option. Lower air drag footprint too boot. Thank you very much. Now to order a Scamp without AC.
Thank you! Glad you liked my video. The nice thing too is we only take the AC on just select summer trips when needed.
Thank you. I had been working a similar idea out in my head when I came across your video. With a few modifications your plans should work out perfectly on my MINI DROP trailer. Love all the details on your web site.
I'm glad my project helped. Thank you!
This is giving me so many good ideas. Thank you! I have a shuttle bus RV conversion project and was wanting to put a window AC unit in the side emergency exit window. I think I can adapt something very similar to this to fit my needs.
Glad my project video helped! Having a temporary AC solution like this makes travelling with our Scamp 13' much more flexible in the summer.
Don't rule out using a mini split if you want a permanent solution. They are definitely more expensive, but in my opinion are easier to modify to install as you only need to drill a small hole in your camper to run the coolant line through. Mr Cool brand has prefilled lines so you don't need a professional to charge the system. Once you screw the lines in, and open the valve, the system is charged. There are lots of videos of people installing them in RVs. You are also not restricted to using a 5k BTU or 6k BTU window unit. You can get a mini split in 12k BTU that will outperform most 15k BTU roof mounted a/c's. Also the mini splits are so efficient on power (they usually use 1/3 of the power of roof mounted a/cs) that many people have installed 2,000 watts worth of solar panels (four 500 watts panels on the roof) and like four deep cycle batteries, and powered the mini split 100% off solar power. Then you can boondock camp and still have a/c without a generator.
Looks great. Thanks for posting!
Thank you!
Nice Video - I'm amazed what people do to these small TT's... just go far it !😊
Thank you! 😊
Brilliant way of thinking!
Thank you!
Excellent job...Thank you for this video.
Thank you for watching!
Great video. Going to start on mine soon. Just one question, I saw you trace the opening of the inside sandwich portion. Should that be the size of the air conditioning unit (plus the width of the bottom platform) that will be installed?
Thank you. The cutout hole of the sandwich should be the height and width of both the AC unit and the bottom platform it sits on (and a small amount of extra room for some margin of error) since both occupy space in the pass through hole. I traced so both sandwich cut outs are the same size with the same size opening to allow the AC back to pass through both sandwich pieces while sitting on the platform. Does that make sense?
thanks for your help I made one for my RV🤩
Your welcome! Nice job!
Thank, you for you're video.
My pleasure.
Good job.
Thank you!
Nice video but it would have been really nice to see how cool you could get it inside there with it 100 degrees outside. Most RVs have a 13,500 btu a/c on top at minimum. Now I understand yours is a lot smaller, but I would bet this is a 5k btu window unit, and in 100+ degree weather it would have been interesting to see if you could get it to at least 72 degrees in there during the hottest part of the day. Wish you had shown the temp later on the remote while it's still 100 out.
Thank you! Great point! I should have done that. I can tell you that it got cold inside within about 15 minutes and I adjusted the temperature so blankets weren't necessary. The Scamp 13' is small inside, so this solution works really well.
Ya know, there’s always a “Debbie Doubter”, instead of talking about a potential problem, why don’t you instead offer a solution?, wow, what a concept 👍🏻
Great Video Thank You!!!
Thank you!
Looks excellent for dry weather. I can see how you will not be able to use it during rains. Where does it drain to? I'd hate to lose the space indoors storing all the stuff so my choice would probably lean toward a permanent installation. In such an installation cold would be an issue, but a box shape of well glued and taped insulation panels might do the trick. Just a theory. Anybody have any experience in such?
@scampgrounds - great work. Your video shows people how a little imagination and some common tools can solve a HUGE problem of energy demand, efficiency, for the small cost of a few minutes after reaching the camp site. Experience with this concept - yes. This concept works SUPERBLY for the motivated. There are many variations of the custom frame system depending on one's imagination. How one makes the portable window frame can take several forms. I am incorporating some of what I see here into my next custom fit AC. These can be made to be as weather resistant as one's imagination and persistence with incorporating weather sealing at top and sides on the outside flat piece as one wants to. My last one of these also finished it all out, four coats of good quality polyurethane and it was indestructible. Made one of these in concept for my truck camper with a false tail gate that could be installed in less than 2 minutes and not a single drop of water could get in with a water hose on high pressure on the system. Between weather sealing strips between wood frame and RV skin, using rubber "flaps" mounted at the right locations under aluminum flat stock, into the top of exterior frame that sheds water, and providing a small plastic tray underneath the lower wood shelf, it all works. Is just up to one's imagination and time to perfect the system customized for the window opening. Am in design of our new 5th wheel, told the OEM designer to delete both 13,500 btu roof top ACs, will use the already provided windows that open out and up as the GE 5000 btu window unit locations (we have other egress doors to porches etc and the toy hauler rear), lowers electrical consumption massively to 450W per unit running continuously on Lo Cool (which they will cycle to fan mode), 100W when cycling to fan, 750W on Hi Cool, and will freeze you out of a trailer easily. The 32'L 5th wheel roof now has two less 14" SQ holes in the roof, moved the kitchen vent to the side and the roof is wide open for the install of ten 200W solar panels or six 450W panels mounted on aluminum unistrut. Bottom line is this concept when coupled with a robust battery bank, is superb. Wil take down in minutes and the window (in our case) will flip down and seal - then on the road. The little 5000 btu units are so energy efficient, cost $150 +/-, very durable, and operate superbly in high humidity and high temperatures, ..... is a no-brainer.
I'm interested in how you made it waterproof. Could you show a video of what you did please?
Would you consider listing the the wood pice sizes? In The video it’s hard to see for the HD guy cutting.
Please click on my website link above and all the material dimensions are listed in the article.
Outstanding video and result! I'm going to make one.
Is there a functional reason you curved the sandwich plates or was it for aesthetics?
Thank you. The curves are for both looks as well as safety (sharp edged wood can scratch or cut the skin).
We don't have these aircons here in Europe. But thanks for the idea ! 😅
Thanks for checking out my video. Perhaps a mini split system?
@@scampgrounds
Very expensive down here ( no less than 550$ dollars for 5000btu ) . The cheapest are portable units but they consume too much watts and create vacuum (single hose evacuation).
@@scampgrounds
I tried a weak mini-split ( 3000 btu ) but it doesn't fit my german-style motorhome windows.
@@scampgrounds
Moral of the story is you have got to enjoy all the great things you have there overseas 😅
@@fbezza Sounds like you are on top of it. Best way to go, if possible, is to plan trip locations when weather isn't too hot or cold. We like to go to the beaches and mountains in the summer and the temps are usually very comfortable and don't require AC (we live in California). But, sometimes, it's great having AC (especially during heat waves).
Hands down.
Nice setup. I am going to do something similar once I take delivery of my 13 ft Scamp. I forgo the roof ac for the same reason to be able to store inside my garage. BTW, any idea of the actual weight of the AC unit? There seem to be big discrepancy on the unit weight from website to website. Thanks
Thank you. It's worked out really well (fast setup at the campsite and cools quickly in high heat environments)-- we just take it along when we know we will need it and have an electrical hookup. The AC weighs 43lbs on my business scale (I weighed it because I saw the same discrepancies online between Amazon and the manufacturer specs.). I have more details on my website: scampgrounds.com/small-travel-trailer-mini-air-conditioner-mount-for-rear-window-temporary/ Congratulations on your upcoming Scamp!
@@scampgrounds Thanks for the quick reply. Did you consider the one with mechanical control? The mechanical one weighs about 35lb according to Frigidaire and home depot website, which is about 8lb lighter. Of course, you lose the remote and eco mode.
@@travelhawk7895 Sure. Yes -- I seriously considered the more basic one without the remote / electronic controls. Because of all the discrepancies in weight online, I didn't really know the weight differences when I ordered -- I figured it probably wouldn't be significant. Having an electronic remote vs. manual control is no big deal -- because the Scamp is small inside. However, the electronic control one is Energy Star Certified -- which could be significant if you ever want to run the AC with batteries. I contacted Jackery (I have a Jackery 500) and the tech told me this AC would run 3.5 hours with their Explorer 1500 (mine is the 500 which he said not to use to run the AC). An electric car with V2L, like the Hyundai Ioniq 5, could potentially power this AC as well. Additionally, I noticed the basic one is about 2 inches deeper -- so that was a factor. Overall, I think either would be fine. I have a helper to help me put the AC in my Scamp when we set up, so the weight is no problem at all. But, I think an older person camping by themselves would benefit from the basic one which is 8 pounds lighter (when you are lifting by yourself, 8 pounds can make a difference). I don't think the weight is a physical issue for a new Scamp when you support the AC with the leg that rests on the bumper (some people even mount without the leg -- but, I wanted to be extra conservative). Looks like the prices (sub $200) are good right now!
@@scampgrounds thanks for your thoughtful and detailed response. I enjoyed watching your videos and reading the content on your website. Keep documenting your travel and your work on scamp. They are invaluable to other scampers. 👍
@@travelhawk7895 thank you! That means a lot! Happy Scamping!
Can you stand up in that camper and if so is your garage door a standard height, I am looking for a tiny camper I can stand up in and will fit into my garage
Yes I can easily stand up inside my 2020 Scamp 13' -- the interior height is 6'3". Our garage height was 7' tall and we raised it to 8' tall so our Scamp will fit inside. Some people report they are able to fit their Scamp under a 7' height garage opening by lowering tire pressure or taking tires off, but I didn't want to do that and couldn't verify that would work for our garage. The angel entry (e.g. slope of driveway into garage) may also have an effect on clearance. For much more detailed information, see my article: scampgrounds.com/why-how-we-fit-our-scamp-in-the-garage/
Oh neat I will see the article and I like campers that fit into a garage@@scampgrounds I have been building teardrop campers because they fit into a garage but now I like to have a stand up camper that fits. Subscribed thank you
Probably doesn't rain at your location but if it does rain how much water do you think would seep or leak inside?
I've only used it in really hot weather in California (no rain) so I can't say for sure. But, I think if insulation is used around the edges so it is well sealed, rain leakage shouldn't be significant. The nice thing is that it can be quickly dissembled and the window shut if there was a serious storm.
Did you slope it for water run off ?
I didn't, but that's a good idea if one is doing trips to hot places with rain. We seldom encounter that kind of condition on the West Coast. If it's raining, it's usually cool and we don't have the AC in the Window. It only takes a few minutes to remove, so if there is unexpected rain the AC can be quickly stored in the car.
Was that outlet you used to plug in your AC there when you purchased your scamp? Is it there it the newest models?
I ordered our Scamp from the factory (2020 Scamp 13') and was given the option of adding many 110v outlets (they have many locations that are available). I think I went for all the outlet options -- one on the floor under the rear window, and rear ones on both wall sides facing the kitchen dinette. These outlets only work though when the Scamp is hooked up to an electric outlet at the campsite (or if there is a generator). So, when we run this AC we always have to stay at a place with electric hookups (since we don't travel with a generator).
Put a 400Ah Li battery on your camper with a portable suitcase style (put your own piano hinges on some 200W panels for up to an 800W solar capacity with the RV tilt brackets you can buy or make). Couple that with a Champion 2500W dual fuel portable generator (use LP and forget gas) and you are off grid. Depending on your roof space available, a couple 450W panels and you are set. For my truck camper set up, I coupled with this set up with a Renogy 3000W PSW inverter and 40A Li battery charger as just another source of charging. Will set you free. If you are going to the next level, (YOU) can install an ATS (which will sense shore, generator, solar and take care of getting power to your outlets and appliances, ... but not necessary to get going for your off grid solution. Flip on the inverter when you need the 120V and flip it off when you don't. Hopefully this gives you some ideas ! @@scampgrounds
Why can’t the rv industry place minisplits
Good question!
Hey do you make these ??
No -- I just made the one in the video for my Scamp 13' and have been using it successfully for a while. But, if you go to my website above or follow the video you should easily be able to make one for your trailer (or hire a handyman to do it). It's fairly simple and not very expensive to make.
@@scampgrounds thanks 💯
I'm sure it will be all right until it rains. Then you'll have some problems.
Have never tested in the rain as we use it only in the summer on the West Coast.
Use a sealer on the wood and some cocking in case you want to leave it longer i guess
@@Mcanic Yes -- the wood should be sprayed with exterior primer and paint (as was done on this one).
Just use butyl tape to keep it leak free