Strops Part 6 | Kangaroo Leather Chromium Oxide CBN Venev Gunny Juice | Sharpening Test
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- Опубликовано: 8 июн 2023
- It's Leather Time! This final installment (for now) in my stropping series finishes up testing different materials and abrasives for how they refine (or fail to refine) a knife edge.
Let's strop!
Also check out my tutorials on dual grit sharpening.
What's a dual grit edge, you may ask?
Think: high performance aggressive knife edge!!! This method for versatile razor sharp knives is fast, easy, and leads to edge retention increases of up to 50% in some tasks! Watch my tutorials to quickly learn innovative hand sharpening techniques with whetstone, diamond plate, & honing strop.
The dual grit method is a specific method for sharpening one side of the edge coarse and the other fine - an updated tutorial is below:
• CPM MagnaCut Dual Grit...
And the results have been observed by independent testing:
• You Won't Believe How ...
If you're curious about the science behind the edge mechanics, check out this scienceofsharp.com article in which Dr. Todd Simpson analyzes the effect:
scienceofsharp.com/2021/06/15...
Please consider supporting me on Patreon if this helps you,
www.patreon.com/thehomeslice?...
Whether your passion is bushcraft knives, survival blades, hunting & fishing knives, edc knives, or kitchen knives - this method could revolutionize the way you sharpen your knives and make your edge last longer!!!
#thehomeslicesharpening #dualgritedge #dualgrittest
I think its been an interesting series so far. Whether or not its fully scientific or not. ❤
Thanks mate - I loaded up some more official strops using the data gained so far to provide rough guidance. I got a microscope in now, so I hope to do a *slightly* more scientific test of the new strops with slightly flatter strops. Could be cool to see how it develops.
I'd be interested in the kangaroo strop tutorial.
Cool, I just made another one, and it was fairly simple - we'll have to see how this one works!
Just a fun note! I recently used a greasy diamond paste on wood, but I cooked off the grease with my heat gun - so there was no residue left. Anyhow, I'm excited to watch this video!
I just heard from another viewer that he does the same thing, so I tried leaving my waxy compound strops in direct sunlight for an afternoon to melt them in - we'll see how it works!
@@homeslicesharpening well that's cool! Great idea with the sun - I was initially intending to melt it in, then changed my mind partway through.
@@knickly Nice!
I like kangaroo leather but like you said its had to get and expensive. Thats why i switched to balsa and 3M medical tape (softpore and durapore) as my stropping surface of choice. Theyre cheap, easy to replace (especially the tape) and provide great results.
Yeah I just tried some of the MicroPore with good results! The best part is being able to discard and reapply!
I tried it on a coarse edge stropping with 1 micron and the results were good - lots of retained aggression. I need to go back and try with some 2, 3, or 4 micron diamond on a medium grit edge like you suggested - I bet that would be sweet!
@@homeslicesharpening nice, I'm glad you tried it. I love the ease of use, discard ability and the price of it. And like you said it leaves an aggressive edge even with finer abrasives. Plus with how thin it is, when applied on a hard backing (I'm using my oak and other wood 1x6 blanks) it shouldn't have any give which will reduce edge rounding.
I've gone back and watched your videos that you've posted (for some reason I stopped getting them recommended to me, damn RUclips) and I'm enjoying your testing and seeing some interesting results. Looking forward to seeing what you'll try next.
8 hope you're doing well my friend.
Interesting explanation on testing concepts. A sharpening process which generates the least damage to metal in the apex seems most revenant to cutting edge durability.
- Any thoughts on how ... DMT diamond plates compare to similar grit/mesh Spyderco bench stones?
- Roman Landes ... Metal/HRC deterioration data seems to indicate the need to cut back the apex by 0.006", to remove metal damaged in automated sharpening processes.
- His data seems to indicate metal/HRC deterioration in the apex may actually reach minus 7 HRC at the actual apex.
- A 52 HRC cutting edge on a 59 HRC blades would explain the easily rolled cutting edges on factory sharpened knives.
Greetings Daniel - always great to hear from you.
1) I have no experience with DMT Plates. So far I find that my Spyderco CBN stones are harder to deburr than my EZE Lap diamond plates, but seem to generate longer lasting aggression if you manage to deburr them. The only other Spyderco Bench Stone I have is an UltraFIne Ceramic, which I love and use all the time. I find that you can sometimes get incredible results from it straight off the stone (I hit 96-99 BESS on a couple knives unstropped off the Spyderco UF last week) but it is heavily technique-dependent and I have trouble replicating results across different steels. However, I never get that good of BESS results from my ultra fine diamond plates (EZE-Lap).
2) I think Roman Landes is brilliant, and I'm sure he is correct, I have not factored this into my testing so far, but will have to keep my eyes open.
3) This is interesting, I've heard Michael Christy complain about edge overheat ruining the initial sharpening on many factory knives, again I'll have to keep my eyes open to see if the data I gather reflects this, but I would readily believe that mechanized sharpening damages the HT at the apex - that just makes sense.
The subsurface damage topic really interests me, and I have a few thoughts about it if you're interested:
-grain shape and orientation affect stress distribution below the surface. There's a really interesting recent paper that studied single diamond grit scratching with the grain in different orientations.
-some abrasive manufacturers have IP on aligning diamond grains for monolayer abrasives. Their products may be more consistent in that regard. It may include lapping films.
-VSM Actirox and 3M Cubitron II Pro have aligned ceramic grains; I'd like to try sharpening with them.
-if you saw the latest science of sharp article on S110V, the primary mode of subsurface damage was carbide fracture. This makes sense since they're less ductile (and stiffer) than the matrix. The level of detriment on more ductile steels is unknown to me, and may be minor (though one would think the fatigue would be undesirable).
-it would seem me that adhesive wear would have less subsurface stress than abrasive, but that may be completely incorrect
-shallower scratches will have a smaller plastic zone below the surface
-consistency between grains is probably the first priority
@@knickly Couldn't have said it better myself, thanks for summarizing that. I knew some of it, and I learned some of it. Cheers.
If you are looking for more kangaroo leather I found a place that sells it really cheap in Australia that I've bought from and made a bunch of strops out of. Shipping to NZ isn't that high so wouldn't be too much if you are interested.
Thanks dude - I'd be keen to have you send a link to the seller/site.
@@homeslicesharpening I tried to but link got removed, I don't know how to pm so if you do feel free to msg me.
@@onehundredballs ok, I'll reach out if I need some more - thanks for thinking of me!
@@homeslicesharpening No worries, he currently has a bunch of sizes including 4 pieces of 350x50mm for only $30 shipped in Aus, add a bit to get to NZ.
@@onehundredballs Cool! Is it the guy on eBay? I think that's who I bought from.