These Mazda 3's are so intelligently engineered for easy service I did the engine and cabin air filter and didn't even dirty my hands and it took about a couple minutes each
It's always a good idea to replace the cabin filter regularly, especially if you have pollen allergies. It's easy to replace and I have a video about it: ruclips.net/video/CGPJjMVvA04/видео.html
I can't say thank you enough for the video I am happy to say that I was able to change the spark plugs in my 2017 Mazda 3 by myself pretty awesome, because I was actually stranded. I am proud to say that I am a gal and it was a success!
If you aren't using a spark plug socket just loosen the plug with the regular deep socket til its unthreaded and then take the coil pack and slide it down onto the plug and you can pull the plug out easily
Amazon is a good source for spark plugs at a reasonable price. In my 2014 Mazda3, the standard OEM plugs were fine for 50K+ miles (80K kms). You will get a bit longer life with platinum and iridium plugs... maybe as much as 100K miles. Replace a coil pack only if it goes bad. Coil packs can easily last the life of the car... they really don't wear out like a spark plug does. The standard gap for spark plugs in a Mazda3 is: 0.75-1.10 mm (0.030-0.043 in). You'll probably find that new ones will come with the correct gap.
Looks easy enough. I was about to schedule service and spark plug replacement was recommended. I asked how much and they wanted $240 to do this! Wha-WHAT! Thanks for the tutorial. Going to have at it this weekend.
seriously the best video i have ever watched, very informative, straight to the point and best of all No unnecessary waste of time explaining irrelevant information. Subed and liked
I have found over many years that plugs are correctly gapped right out of the box. I have a couple of gap measuring tools, but most Molly Sixpacks don't have one of them around the house. I wanted to show how to do the job without a specialized tool that very likely would not be needed anyway.
I'm not remotely mechanically inclined. Before this all I ever replaced on my own was the battery, but this video got me through my first spark plug replacement easily. Thank you!
Nice video, straight and to-the point, and ridiculously easy to do on this car. I have 100k miles on two Mazdas on the spark plugs. This is the first time I did it myself - out of curiosity how worn were your Mazda spark plugs when you replaced them? My 2016 Mazda6 has 221k miles and still looks and drives brand new.
When I made this video, I had about 30K miles on my 2014 Mazda3. The plugs really did not need replacement -- I just pulled out the OEM plug and re-installed it for the purposes of the video. I now have around 45K miles on the car, and it continues to run beautifully. I did have one problem with the car, which was a bad brake light switch. I made a video about that and it apparently hit a nerve -- a lot of people have had bad brake light switches in Mazda3s and related models. Otherwise, the car has been excellent... I really like it.
Thank you so much! I want to be more hands on with taking care of my Mazda and this video definitely helped. Will be buying spark plugs today and changing them myself. Thank you Mr. Kovacs.
I changed the spark plugs on my chevy Malibu before due to how easy these were. Glad to know these are literally the same process and easy to do them. Saved me $389 the mazda dealership was quoting me for it.
Same here. My 2018 needs a change and mazda quoted me around the same price. No thanks. This video makes it look super easy. Last time I changed sparkplugs was on my old Mazda 323, but I remember it being super easy. Glad to see Mazda has kept it simple for this task, so going to buy tools today to get this done!
Well worth it to do this yourself. The Spark Plugs you can get OEM ones for $21.79 each and spend about 30 minutes, if that, to replace or spend $384.02 + Tax at the Car Dealer. Some things just do yourself. I have a 2018 Mazda 3 and the Air & Cabin Filters are stupid easy to do. 30 seconds for the Air Filter and 60 seconds for the Cabin Filter. Cost me $40 + Tax. The car dealer about $159.99 + Tax for about 2 minutes work.
No, coil packs and spark plugs should be treated differently. Spark plugs wear out over time -- they are exposed to high temperatures in the cylinders of the car, and the heat and constant sparking cause the metal in the spark gap to erode. The coil packs are purely electronic, so they don't wear out the same way. A coil pack may fail eventually, but they generally have a much longer life than spark plugs. I would only replace a coil pack if it failed. Otherwise, I'd just reuse them.
Just got a 2014 mazda 3 and omg it appears it is so plug and play and so easy to work on, ive even worked on some 90s cars where sparl plug holes were partially blocked by an alternator which had its bolts partially blocked by the radiator...
Good luck with your 2014 Mazda3. I still have mine, and it has been an excellent car -- really reliable, economical and fun to drive. I don't know why everyone doesn't drive one of these. Thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment!
@@BobKovacs Yeah, I just called my Mazda dealer for my inspection. I also have 75K('16 Maz3). They want $330 to change plugs! He said plugs are 1/2 of the price, so $40 apiece? What about changing the trans fluid? Maz said its sealed, cant change it. An expert said to change it every 60K, and there are vids on how to change MY CAR's fluid!
@@turtleman5111 Ha ha! Spark plugs for the 2014 Mazda3 are $25 to $35 for a set of 4, depending on what you get. So maybe $7 each. Dealers really love to separate people from their money.
If you turn the socket backwards when you put the new plug in until you feel it jump and then tighten you will never cross thread , works for any threaded object .
I still recommend threading spark plugs into cylinder heads by hand using your technique or otherwise. It just takes making a mistake once and you could be facing a multi-thousand dollar repair job. Cheap insurance to do it by hand.
If you're in the US, Walmart probably has the best price for spark plugs. You will need to know which engine you have (either 2.0 or 2.5 liters), and you will need 4 spark plugs. If your Walmart doesn't have them, any auto parts store will. As will Amazon. Good luck!
The torque setting for the spark plugs is 8-10 ft-lbs. Keep in mind that someone tackling this task for the first time is unlikely to have a torque wrench, and probably doesn't want to bother with dielectric grease. Are both the correct service manual way to do it? Yes. Have I ever used a torque wrench and dielectric grease on the hundreds of spark plugs I've replaced? No.
Good Morning Bob just watched your video and I was just quoted an outrageous price to replace my spark plugs at a dealership and from a mechanic shop too. I have a 2016 Mazda 3 sedan and I want to do this myself so would you recommend OEM spark plugs and you think a first time diy guy could confidently do this job? You made it look very simple but I don’t want to strip any threads and ruin my engine. Thoughts?
Yes, this really is a pretty simple job. If you have sockets that fit (especially the deep socket for the spark plug), then it takes just 15 minutes or so to do the work. OEM plugs are fine, although I prefer platinum or iridium plugs for longer life. Even the cheapest plug should last 40K miles (65K km).
I saw this in an online manual: Standard: 0.75-1.10 mm (0.030-0.043 in) New spark plug (reference): 0.75-0.85 mm (0.030-0.033 in) You're probably safe around .9mm (.036 in.)
No, there is no need to disconnect the battery to replace the spark plugs. You can get the spark plug out without disconnecting the coil pack. Even if you had to disconnect a coil pack, disconnecting the battery is not necessary.
Another great video. Thanks again. I taped the socket to the extension as well so it doesn't get stuck if for some reason it binds to the sparkplug. But the well isn't too deep so it shouldn't be a huge issue.
Looks like Amazon has a pack of 4 plugs for $12 or so. Depending on what you want to get, they could be more or less. Here is one listing: smile.amazon.com/dp/B009J5C0DM/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=113f74689efd48a7a066d9c9f8002096&hsa_cr_id=3005171040801&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=6334153f-7368-46f0-8142-0b601cf15444&pd_rd_w=JbLQl&pd_rd_wg=xcvAf&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_1_img
It's my experience that new plugs for modern cars are gapped correctly. I don't do a lot of plugs, but every time I've done them in the last 20 years, they were gapped correctly. That said, if you want to check the gap, it should be 1.05-1.40 mm.
You are welcome. I did not check the gap and just put them in the way I got them. However, I saw this in an online manual: Standard: 0.75-1.10 mm (0.030-0.043 in) New spark plug (reference): 0.75-0.85 mm (0.030-0.033 in) You're probably safe around .9mm (.036 in.)
Thank you Bob, your prompt response is greatly appreciated. I have recently replaced my spark plugs and used 0.044 in. I used this one for my mazda 3 2015, and it seems to be working fine so far: www.ngk.com/ngk-94124-ilkar7l11-laser-iridium-spark-plug#
I wouldn't be surprised if that was the gap of the plugs I used, which are working fine. The car gets excellent gas mileage... a very nice thing today. That performance is an indication that the spark gap is optimal.
Spark plugs almost certainly have a torque spec, but I have changed hundreds of spark plugs and never used a torque wrench. I just snug them down, being careful not to overtighten. I use a shorter ratchet, so I really have to force it to apply too much torque.
I did not check the gap and just put them in the way I got them. I find that the gap is always correct right out of the box. However, I saw this in an online manual: Standard: 0.75-1.10 mm (0.030-0.043 in) New spark plug (reference): 0.75-0.85 mm (0.030-0.033 in) You're probably safe around .9mm (.036 in.)
The factory plugs in my US car went 100,000km before replacement. And the car was still running fine at that point. I don't know what the manual says, but I'm good with 100,000km (or 60,000 miles).
As a 40 automotive tech, it astonishes me how many so called home mechanics post videos with bad advice. First, you always use the right tools for the right job. You even point out the fact that you don't have a spark plug socket. First, why make your job harder for not buying the right socket? Secondly, no anti-sieze lubricant on the steel threads of the plug? You even mention the fact that your engine like most cars nowadays has an aluminum head and you're using a steel threads. Wow! Third, no die electric grease installed on the tip of the plug that mates with the plug boot. Why post things that will get others in trouble?
You are entitled to your opinions and observations. The people most likely to watch this video probably do not have a spark plug socket this size, and I hate to waste their time/money when there is a simple workaround. At least I point out what it is and why it is useful, in case someone already has it or wants to get it. As for the anti-seize lubricant and and dielectric grease... in 40+ years of doing my own service on lots of different cars with aluminum heads, I have never needed either item. Is it the textbook way? Probably... I'll agree with you on that. Does Molly Sixpack, who is changing her plugs for the first time ever, need to take the time and run to the store to get them? I don't think so. Should a pro use them? Sure, a pro should use them. Thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment.
Is your "Check Engine" light on? If you are getting misfires, you should get the light. If you can have someone check for fault codes, that may give you a good clue to what is happening.
@@BobKovacs I do have a way to check my fault codes and it’s giving me a misfire three and four after I changed the spark plugs. Yes the check engine light is now on because of this..
Ahh... if the plugs look good and have the right gap, I'd suspect the coil packs, which are the things that mount on top of the spark plugs. Move the coil packs from cylinders 1 & 2 to spark plugs 3 & 4. Then put the coil packs that were on spark plugs 3 & 4 over to spark plugs 1 & 2. Does the fault code now show misfires on 1 & 2? Then the coil packs are definitely bad. If the fault remains on 3 & 4, then the problem is something else.
@@BobKovacs The car only has 54,000 miles and there was no prom before I changed the spark plugs . I’ve done this several times before thanks for the advice...
No, there is no need to disconnect the battery, especially since you never have to disconnect the coil pack. Just pull the coil pack off the spark plug, but leave its connector on.
No, I think that is overkill for spark plugs. There is no current flowing in the spark plugs -- after all, they have a spark gap that only a very high voltage can cross -- so there is no concern that removing a spark plug can affect other components. Further, disconnecting the battery might delete other settings in the car (such as the radio), which can be annoying. Yes, the battery should be disconnected for some maintenance, but not for spark plugs. Not in a 2014 Mazda3, anyway.
pro tip - use a rubber hose and put the tip of the new spark plug in it and use that to guide that spark plug down and turn without stripping. The hose doesnt have enough strength to strip it only snug
I live in uk and i can and i want to tho oil change my self but i don’t have the tools and dont how get rid of oil mechanics charging too much for such a simple thing
Every place I've lived in the US, there has been multiple car repair facilities that accept used oil. It might even be the law in the US. My understanding is that the used oil has value, so mechanics collect it in big tanks and sell it to an oil recycler. At least I think that's what happens.
Yes, you *should* use those things. However, my video is targeted at novices who probably don't have specialized tools. That's why I mention a plug socket, but show how to do it without.
Idiot me didn't realise that ratchets have different sizes... I went and bought a 3/8" ratchet, not knowing that cars usually use 1/2" rachets. I'll have to buy an adapter tomorrow, but would be good if you could mention this somewhere for the supernoobs like me :)
@@BobKovacs Yeah assuming you can find a 3/8" type 14mm deep socket... The one I got was 1/2" and I didn't realise it till I tried to use it then went "ohhhhhhhh..... "
Not sure where you are, but if you are in the US, Harbor Freight will have a 3/8-inch 14mm deep socket, no problem. Better still, Harbor Freight will have a 14mm spark plug socket for 3/8-inch. And not expensive, either. If you're not in the US, most any autoparts store will have the correct socket. It really is pretty common.
My video on replacing a coil pack is now uploaded and will be visible in a couple of hours (at 6PM on Sept. 22 Eastern Time in the US). Here's the link to see it... and some of it will look familiar: ruclips.net/video/5xM5bQzDFI4/видео.html
Very good video, only thing missing was the removal of the wires... Extremely important that you do NOT use the ratchet, do it by hand! My engine blew because the "mechanic" cross threaded and it blew out the engine.
Thanks. It is not necessary to remove the connectors from the coil packs to get at the spark plugs, at least on my car. I can remove the coil pack from the plug with the wire still connected. And I have another video showing replacement of a coil pack, where I remove the connector. You can see that video here: ruclips.net/video/5xM5bQzDFI4/видео.html
What happens if you have oil on your spark plug? I would try a new plug first, and check it in a week or two to see if it has oil. If it has no oil, then you are in good shape and the new plug was a cheap fix. If the new plug has oil, then you have oil getting into the cylinder. That would either be from bad piston rings or from leaking valve seals. The valve seals are the more likely culprit. Good luck!
Good tips... and you're right. I should have mentioned the correct gap. My experience in the last 20 years or so is that new plugs always have the correct gap. Of course, the design of some plugs does not allow for changing the gap. Otherwise, I've been changing plugs in cars for more than 50 years. I have never used antisieze, and I have never had a problem removing a spark plug. Cast iron heads, aluminum heads... not a problem removing plugs in my experience.
@@BobKovacs I have changed plugs for many years as well, and have found that checking the gap is always a plus. For instance, my 99 camaro needed new plugs and wires and not checking I went ahead and put them in. Car ran like crap so I checked the gap. They were way off! Even though they claim they are pre gapped I always check now to make sure. As far as antiseize, I find a little doesn't hurt. Just makes it easier for the next guy. Good video tho otherwise!
@@BobKovacs thanks for your video! Newby here...how do you check the gap (what is ‘the gap’?) and how do you change it ? This might be a silly question but I haven’t found a mechanic that can take care of my car as they say they are seriously understaffed and my car is an ‘06, never had plugs changed and is having hard time starting so I’m desperate for help. Any input I’d be appreciative!
@@rainsofhealing Spark plugs literally make a spark when the engine runs. That spark ignites the gasoline in the cylinder, and the resulting energy is what creates power. A spark plug has a gap across which the spark jumps, and this gap needs to be correct for the best engine operation. There are a variety of spark gap tools -- here is the one I have, which can be bought at any autoparts store in the US for a couple dollars: shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/performance-tool-spark-plug-gap-gauge-w80540/10075900-p?product_channel=local&store=7409&adtype=pla&product_channel=local&store_code=7409&gclid=CjwKCAjwj8eJBhA5EiwAg3z0mxjXjZnFaFVI6qsl-0rgqp5fi1FkGfJW0fJpY8eARv_8zi-q6_JPUxoC_oQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
If you are replacing the spark plugs, you don't need to disconnect the coil pack -- on my car, there was enough slack to pull the coil pack off the plug with the connector still attached.
YOU FORGOT TO MENTION SOMETHING SMALL BUT HUGE AT THE SAME TIME. I AM A BEGINNER AND I LOOSENED THE BOLT WITHOUT REMOVING THE CONNECTOR. YOU DIDN'T SHOW ANYTHING ABOUT REMOVING THE CONNECTOR TO THE COIL PACK. THIS CAUSED MY CAR TO MISFIRE, NOW I HAVE TO CALL THE MECHANIC.
You can pull the coil pack off the spark plug without disconnecting the coil pack. In fact, that is preferable. I have another video about removing the coil pack where I show how to pull that connector apart. However, in my car, there is enough slack in the cables to pull the coil pack off the spark plug without disconnecting the coil pack.
@@BobKovacs I TRIED PULLING THE COIL PACK WITHOUT DISCONNECTING IT BUT I COULDN'T REMOVE THE SPARK PLUGS BECAUSE I DIDN'T HAVE AN EXTENDER. I FIGURED I COULD DO IT ON MY OWN. I'M JUST A BEGINNER, NEVER DONE THIS BEFORE BUT WATCHED A VIDEO. DIDN'T WANT TO PAY A MECHANIC SINCE IT SEEMED SIMPLE. ANYWAY I PUT THE COIL BACK AND TIGHTENED IT. SOMEHOW WHEN I START MY CAR, I GET A FLASHING CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, I HAVE A MISFIRE AND THE ENGINE SHAKES. I LOOSENED THE COIL PACK, PUT IT BACK IN AND RE-TIGHTENED IT BUT THE SAME THING HAPPENS.
@@theultimatemale6820 I don't know what to tell you. If you can get the malfunction code read, that might tell you exactly what the problem is. Many autoparts stores (in the US, anyway) will read malfunction codes for free. Go back over every step and make sure that the spark plug is screwed in properly, and that the coil pack fits correctly over the spark plug. And make sure the connector to the coil pack is attached. Good luck!
Those are nice and recommended things to do. That said, I have never had a spark plug that was was stuck -- every one I've ever changed (a few hundred) has come out easily. I haven't used boot protectant, either on sparkplug boots or on coil pack boots, and never had a problem with those, either. I can see why they are potentially useful, but I've never needed or used them.
![How to Check and Fill Fluids [COMPLETE GUIDE] - Mazda 3 (2014-2018)](/img/1.gif)
These Mazda 3's are so intelligently engineered for easy service I did the engine and cabin air filter and didn't even dirty my hands and it took about a couple minutes each
I was just driving my 2014 Mazda3 a few minutes ago, and it feels like a new car. And it is 10 model years old! definitely a well-engineered car.
Just be carefull if you wanna sniff the cabin filter was sick for 4 weeks. Dont sniff pollen :D
@@Coladudetje whoa that's crazy
It's always a good idea to replace the cabin filter regularly, especially if you have pollen allergies. It's easy to replace and I have a video about it: ruclips.net/video/CGPJjMVvA04/видео.html
Did you have to disconnect the battery?
I can't say thank you enough for the video I am happy to say that I was able to change the spark plugs in my 2017 Mazda 3 by myself pretty awesome, because I was actually stranded. I am proud to say that I am a gal and it was a success!
You are welcome. It is a great feeling to tackle a project like this and have it be successful. Good for you... and thanks for sharing your story.
Wow, one of the best how-to videos EVER. Thank you. Great quality, good information, excellent camera work.
You're welcome... glad you enjoyed it!
If you aren't using a spark plug socket just loosen the plug with the regular deep socket til its unthreaded and then take the coil pack and slide it down onto the plug and you can pull the plug out easily
Good tip... thanks!
That's a great hack idea!
@@BobKovacs or you could buy a plug socket!! Always great to have an excuse to buy more tools!!! lol
@@spinedoc893 Ha! Yes, more tools, please!!
@spinedoc893 what size spark plug socket ?
Holy cow this is SO easy to do at home. Thanks for saving me a couple hundred bucks!
You're welcome... glad I could help!
Nowadays younger generations learn from RUclipsrs, how to... :)Thanks Bob.
You're welcome!
This video was super helpful. Turned out to be a lot simpler process for a maintenance process than I expected.
Yes, it turns out that spark plugs on this car are really easy. Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment.
Question? : What kind of spark plugs should I use? What is the gap size ? When should the coil pack be replaced? Thanks great video dude.
Amazon is a good source for spark plugs at a reasonable price. In my 2014 Mazda3, the standard OEM plugs were fine for 50K+ miles (80K kms). You will get a bit longer life with platinum and iridium plugs... maybe as much as 100K miles.
Replace a coil pack only if it goes bad. Coil packs can easily last the life of the car... they really don't wear out like a spark plug does.
The standard gap for spark plugs in a Mazda3 is: 0.75-1.10 mm (0.030-0.043 in). You'll probably find that new ones will come with the correct gap.
@@BobKovacs hey thanks a million friend. You are a good man! I will like and subscribe
Looks easy enough. I was about to schedule service and spark plug replacement was recommended. I asked how much and they wanted $240 to do this! Wha-WHAT! Thanks for the tutorial. Going to have at it this weekend.
It's not hard at all, so I expect that you'll have it done in a jiffy. Good luck!
Thank you for your demostration how to change the spark plugs.
Excellent skills.😀
You're welcome.
seriously the best video i have ever watched, very informative, straight to the point and best of all No unnecessary waste of time explaining irrelevant information.
Subed and liked
Thanks... I appreciate the kind words.
Excellent video, Bob. Straight to the point and clear
Thanks!
Thanks Bob! Super direct, quick and simple instruction without the fluff. Awesome.
You're welcome.
Great video Bob! Just wanted to report another smooth spark plug replacement thanks to your video! Saved me a ton of money!
Thanks for the report... and good news on the positive result!
Thx Bob, Just did this on my wife's car. Super helpful. Took 20 minutes.
You're welcome... glad it helped.
Thanks for the HOW-TO. Question though, Why didn't you gap the plug ?
I have found over many years that plugs are correctly gapped right out of the box. I have a couple of gap measuring tools, but most Molly Sixpacks don't have one of them around the house. I wanted to show how to do the job without a specialized tool that very likely would not be needed anyway.
I'm not remotely mechanically inclined. Before this all I ever replaced on my own was the battery, but this video got me through my first spark plug replacement easily. Thank you!
You're welcome... thanks for the nice note!
Thanks again for the awesome service videos. They are priceless.
You're welcome... again. And I thank you for stopping by, checking them out, and leaving a message.
Nice video, straight and to-the point, and ridiculously easy to do on this car. I have 100k miles on two Mazdas on the spark plugs.
This is the first time I did it myself - out of curiosity how worn were your Mazda spark plugs when you replaced them? My 2016 Mazda6 has 221k miles and still looks and drives brand new.
When I made this video, I had about 30K miles on my 2014 Mazda3. The plugs really did not need replacement -- I just pulled out the OEM plug and re-installed it for the purposes of the video. I now have around 45K miles on the car, and it continues to run beautifully. I did have one problem with the car, which was a bad brake light switch. I made a video about that and it apparently hit a nerve -- a lot of people have had bad brake light switches in Mazda3s and related models. Otherwise, the car has been excellent... I really like it.
Wow. That is some mileage. Mine is same year but only half of yours. And in kilometres!
Thank you so much! I want to be more hands on with taking care of my Mazda and this video definitely helped. Will be buying spark plugs today and changing them myself. Thank you Mr. Kovacs.
You're welcome.
I changed the spark plugs on my chevy Malibu before due to how easy these were. Glad to know these are literally the same process and easy to do them. Saved me $389 the mazda dealership was quoting me for it.
Thanks for sharing your story.
Same here. My 2018 needs a change and mazda quoted me around the same price. No thanks. This video makes it look super easy. Last time I changed sparkplugs was on my old Mazda 323, but I remember it being super easy. Glad to see Mazda has kept it simple for this task, so going to buy tools today to get this done!
@@huntingwhale Good luck!
You saved me a lot of time and a lot of money. Thank you so much. First time so I was nervous, but it worked out. I saved more than $200
It's amazing how easy it is. You're welcome... and I appreciate the comment.
Thank you Bob! This video saved me over 200$ in labour!
You're welcome!
My daughters car will be getting new plugs this spring performed by Dad and thanks to Bob
Awww... thanks for the nice comment!
Bob you're an MVP thank you sir.
You're welcome.
I come back to this video every time I need to replace my plugs
This is something simple that everyone should try doing and a great way to start knowing your car
Thank you for this tutorial
You're welcome.
I was planning on taking my car to the dealership to get this done for about $200, but this looks very easy to do on my own.
Yes, this is a pretty easy mechanical task on a Mazda3. Good luck with yours!
Well worth it to do this yourself. The Spark Plugs you can get OEM ones for $21.79 each and spend about 30 minutes, if that, to replace or spend $384.02 + Tax at the Car Dealer. Some things just do yourself. I have a 2018 Mazda 3 and the Air & Cabin Filters are stupid easy to do. 30 seconds for the Air Filter and 60 seconds for the Cabin Filter. Cost me $40 + Tax. The car dealer about $159.99 + Tax for about 2 minutes work.
is it recommended to change coil packs with spark plugs? just hit 50k on my 2018 3
No, coil packs and spark plugs should be treated differently. Spark plugs wear out over time -- they are exposed to high temperatures in the cylinders of the car, and the heat and constant sparking cause the metal in the spark gap to erode. The coil packs are purely electronic, so they don't wear out the same way. A coil pack may fail eventually, but they generally have a much longer life than spark plugs. I would only replace a coil pack if it failed. Otherwise, I'd just reuse them.
@@BobKovacs gotcha! appreciate the response!
If one coil pack fails might as well change all of them
Hey men i like you video really helpfull and easy to understand
Thanks!
Great video. Tks for time and trouble.Informative and educational. Rick/77,Seattle
You're welcome.
You are my hero thank you! Short quick informative and easy!
I appreciate the comment!
Just got a 2014 mazda 3 and omg it appears it is so plug and play and so easy to work on, ive even worked on some 90s cars where sparl plug holes were partially blocked by an alternator which had its bolts partially blocked by the radiator...
Good luck with your 2014 Mazda3. I still have mine, and it has been an excellent car -- really reliable, economical and fun to drive. I don't know why everyone doesn't drive one of these.
Thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment!
@@BobKovacs Yeah, I just called my Mazda dealer for my inspection. I also have 75K('16 Maz3). They want $330 to change plugs! He said plugs are 1/2 of the price, so $40 apiece? What about changing the trans fluid? Maz said its sealed, cant change it. An expert said to change it every 60K, and there are vids on how to change MY CAR's fluid!
@@turtleman5111 Ha ha! Spark plugs for the 2014 Mazda3 are $25 to $35 for a set of 4, depending on what you get. So maybe $7 each. Dealers really love to separate people from their money.
Thank you for detailed explanation. You are so helpful
You are welcome.
If you turn the socket backwards when you put the new plug in until you feel it jump and then tighten you will never cross thread , works for any threaded object .
I still recommend threading spark plugs into cylinder heads by hand using your technique or otherwise. It just takes making a mistake once and you could be facing a multi-thousand dollar repair job. Cheap insurance to do it by hand.
Thank you for saving me nearly $140. Cheers!
You're welcome.
Thanks for the video! Where would you recommend to buy sparkplugs? I know nothing about cars so a little unsure:)
If you're in the US, Walmart probably has the best price for spark plugs. You will need to know which engine you have (either 2.0 or 2.5 liters), and you will need 4 spark plugs. If your Walmart doesn't have them, any auto parts store will. As will Amazon.
Good luck!
Thank you so much for this easy to follow video
You're welcome.
Can I please get a detailed list of the tools you used ? I’m going to change my own plus .
I list the tools on-screen near the very beginning. It helps if you have a 14mm spark plug socket.
Torque setting and no dielectric grease use?
The torque setting for the spark plugs is 8-10 ft-lbs. Keep in mind that someone tackling this task for the first time is unlikely to have a torque wrench, and probably doesn't want to bother with dielectric grease. Are both the correct service manual way to do it? Yes. Have I ever used a torque wrench and dielectric grease on the hundreds of spark plugs I've replaced? No.
I meant to use socket by hand until its in the thread .
An old guy told me this when I was an apprentice engineer and its never failed me .
you are cool Bob... thanks for the detailed vid
You're welcome.
Good Morning Bob just watched your video and I was just quoted an outrageous price to replace my spark plugs at a dealership and from a mechanic shop too. I have a 2016 Mazda 3 sedan and I want to do this myself so would you recommend OEM spark plugs and you think a first time diy guy could confidently do this job? You made it look very simple but I don’t want to strip any threads and ruin my engine. Thoughts?
Yes, this really is a pretty simple job. If you have sockets that fit (especially the deep socket for the spark plug), then it takes just 15 minutes or so to do the work. OEM plugs are fine, although I prefer platinum or iridium plugs for longer life. Even the cheapest plug should last 40K miles (65K km).
@@BobKovacs question / do these iridium’s come gapped already? Thinking of doing this to my 2017 Mazda myself
@@dylanburdick7228 Yes, in my experience, all brand name plugs are gapped correctly right out of the box. It was a simple swap.
Nice, thank you sir! I will replace my daughter's spark plugs now
You're welcome.
What’s the recommended gap for the spark plug? Thanks.
I saw this in an online manual:
Standard: 0.75-1.10 mm (0.030-0.043 in)
New spark plug (reference): 0.75-0.85 mm (0.030-0.033 in)
You're probably safe around .9mm (.036 in.)
Great video!! Thanks Bob!!!
You're welcome.
Should you disconnect the battery before doing this?
No, there is no need to disconnect the battery to replace the spark plugs. You can get the spark plug out without disconnecting the coil pack. Even if you had to disconnect a coil pack, disconnecting the battery is not necessary.
Spend the 13 $ and get a spark plug wrench with a magnet inside to hold the spark plug ,makes things much eaiser
Another great video. Thanks again. I taped the socket to the extension as well so it doesn't get stuck if for some reason it binds to the sparkplug. But the well isn't too deep so it shouldn't be a huge issue.
You're welcome... thanks for the comment!
how much are spark plugs for 2018 mazda 3 2.0 these days?!
Looks like Amazon has a pack of 4 plugs for $12 or so. Depending on what you want to get, they could be more or less. Here is one listing: smile.amazon.com/dp/B009J5C0DM/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=113f74689efd48a7a066d9c9f8002096&hsa_cr_id=3005171040801&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=6334153f-7368-46f0-8142-0b601cf15444&pd_rd_w=JbLQl&pd_rd_wg=xcvAf&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_1_img
What about gapping though? I was told that is need to be done. Unless the spark plug already comes pregapped?
It's my experience that new plugs for modern cars are gapped correctly. I don't do a lot of plugs, but every time I've done them in the last 20 years, they were gapped correctly. That said, if you want to check the gap, it should be 1.05-1.40 mm.
@@BobKovacs gracias!!!
Bob, thank you for the video, very helpful! Do you know what the default gap for the sparkplugs used in your video?
You are welcome. I did not check the gap and just put them in the way I got them. However, I saw this in an online manual:
Standard: 0.75-1.10 mm (0.030-0.043 in)
New spark plug (reference): 0.75-0.85 mm (0.030-0.033 in)
You're probably safe around .9mm (.036 in.)
Thank you Bob, your prompt response is greatly appreciated. I have recently replaced my spark plugs and used 0.044 in. I used this one for my mazda 3 2015, and it seems to be working fine so far:
www.ngk.com/ngk-94124-ilkar7l11-laser-iridium-spark-plug#
I wouldn't be surprised if that was the gap of the plugs I used, which are working fine. The car gets excellent gas mileage... a very nice thing today. That performance is an indication that the spark gap is optimal.
Is it required to replace the coil packs ? Mazda 3 2016 100k kilometers
You should replace a coil pack only if it is bad. As long as it is working properly, I would keep it.
I am having trouble with my 14mm deep socket. It bottoms out too early and can't undo the spark plug. Any idea?
It sounds like you need a deeper socket. Without seeing the situation, that's all I can think of. How tall is the socket you have?
What's the torque on the spark plugs? Great video, keep up the great work!
8-10 ft-lbs. I Googled it.
@@BobKovacs Thanks for the quick response!
cool, thanks Bob. i’m gonna do this today.
You're welcome.
dont you need a torque wrench for the plugs?
Spark plugs almost certainly have a torque spec, but I have changed hundreds of spark plugs and never used a torque wrench. I just snug them down, being careful not to overtighten. I use a shorter ratchet, so I really have to force it to apply too much torque.
What should the gap be on the spark plugs?
I did not check the gap and just put them in the way I got them. I find that the gap is always correct right out of the box. However, I saw this in an online manual:
Standard: 0.75-1.10 mm (0.030-0.043 in)
New spark plug (reference): 0.75-0.85 mm (0.030-0.033 in)
You're probably safe around .9mm (.036 in.)
@@BobKovacs Thanks. I've got over 182,000 miles on the original spark plugs so I'm thinking it's about time to change them.
@@tmwei396 Ha! I think so, yes.
Could you tell us what brand and model of spark plugs ? Thank you
I actually re-installed the original spark plug, which was in good condition. I say that it is new in the video, but it was the same plug I removed.
Wonderful video! Thank you! I don't suppose anyone knows the proper torque value for the spark plug?
I think the correct torque is 10-15 ft-lbs.
@@BobKovacs thank you!
Thank you, great video
You're welcome.
Good Vid. What sparkplug life in km do you recommend before changing?
The factory plugs in my US car went 100,000km before replacement. And the car was still running fine at that point. I don't know what the manual says, but I'm good with 100,000km (or 60,000 miles).
Thanks!! I'm gunna do mine soon
You're welcome.
You make it so easy thanks
You’re welcome 😊
Pre subscribing before watching the video because of the comments alone
It's not a long watch, so I hope you got something out of it by now. Thanks for subscribing!
@@BobKovacs Yes, very straight forward and helpful. thank you
What is the spark plug gap for a 2014 Mazda 3?
The gap for a 2014 Mazda3 should be 1.05-1.40 mm.
Wow! Muchas Gracias! 👍
De nada.
As a 40 automotive tech, it astonishes me how many so called home mechanics post videos with bad advice. First, you always use the right tools for the right job. You even point out the fact that you don't have a spark plug socket. First, why make your job harder for not buying the right socket? Secondly, no anti-sieze lubricant on the steel threads of the plug? You even mention the fact that your engine like most cars nowadays has an aluminum head and you're using a steel threads. Wow! Third, no die electric grease installed on the tip of the plug that mates with the plug boot. Why post things that will get others in trouble?
You are entitled to your opinions and observations. The people most likely to watch this video probably do not have a spark plug socket this size, and I hate to waste their time/money when there is a simple workaround. At least I point out what it is and why it is useful, in case someone already has it or wants to get it. As for the anti-seize lubricant and and dielectric grease... in 40+ years of doing my own service on lots of different cars with aluminum heads, I have never needed either item. Is it the textbook way? Probably... I'll agree with you on that. Does Molly Sixpack, who is changing her plugs for the first time ever, need to take the time and run to the store to get them? I don't think so. Should a pro use them? Sure, a pro should use them.
Thanks for stopping by and leaving a comment.
Just wondering if anyone knows the torque spec for the spark plugs?
This has come up and been answered the comments below. The answer is: 8-10 ft-lbs.
@@BobKovacs thank you!
Changed mine out. And 3 and 4 are
Miss firing?
I’m thinking defective spark plugs??
Is your "Check Engine" light on? If you are getting misfires, you should get the light. If you can have someone check for fault codes, that may give you a good clue to what is happening.
@@BobKovacs I do have a way to check my fault codes and it’s giving me a misfire three and four after I changed the spark plugs.
Yes the check engine light is now on because of this..
Ahh... if the plugs look good and have the right gap, I'd suspect the coil packs, which are the things that mount on top of the spark plugs. Move the coil packs from cylinders 1 & 2 to spark plugs 3 & 4. Then put the coil packs that were on spark plugs 3 & 4 over to spark plugs 1 & 2. Does the fault code now show misfires on 1 & 2? Then the coil packs are definitely bad. If the fault remains on 3 & 4, then the problem is something else.
@@BobKovacs The car only has 54,000 miles and there was no prom before I changed the spark plugs . I’ve done this several times before thanks for the advice...
Good luck!
No need to disconnect the battery?
No, there is no need to disconnect the battery, especially since you never have to disconnect the coil pack. Just pull the coil pack off the spark plug, but leave its connector on.
You should remove the negative cable from the battery before replacing the spark plugs or anything electrical
No, I think that is overkill for spark plugs. There is no current flowing in the spark plugs -- after all, they have a spark gap that only a very high voltage can cross -- so there is no concern that removing a spark plug can affect other components. Further, disconnecting the battery might delete other settings in the car (such as the radio), which can be annoying. Yes, the battery should be disconnected for some maintenance, but not for spark plugs. Not in a 2014 Mazda3, anyway.
Well that was easy… thanks bob!
You're welcome!
Thanks dad!
pro tip - use a rubber hose and put the tip of the new spark plug in it and use that to guide that spark plug down and turn without stripping. The hose doesnt have enough strength to strip it only snug
Thanks for the tip!
I live in uk and i can and i want to tho oil change my self but i don’t have the tools and dont how get rid of oil mechanics charging too much for such a simple thing
Every place I've lived in the US, there has been multiple car repair facilities that accept used oil. It might even be the law in the US. My understanding is that the used oil has value, so mechanics collect it in big tanks and sell it to an oil recycler. At least I think that's what happens.
Nice video!!!
Thanks!
Thanks you much appreciated 🙏.
You're welcome... glad it helped.
I like to use a 6-10 inch piece of hose to start the spark plugs to avoid cross threading.
Thanks for the tip!
should i take out the battery first
No, you do not need to remove or disconnect the battery, assuming all you will be doing is replacing spark plugs.
Shoulda': deep socket w/magnet, or a plug socket, NOT needle nose pliers.
Take the wires off....?
Yes, you *should* use those things. However, my video is targeted at novices who probably don't have specialized tools. That's why I mention a plug socket, but show how to do it without.
Thanks for the info
You bet!
Idiot me didn't realise that ratchets have different sizes... I went and bought a 3/8" ratchet, not knowing that cars usually use 1/2" rachets. I'll have to buy an adapter tomorrow, but would be good if you could mention this somewhere for the supernoobs like me :)
A 3/8 ratchet will work fine for spark plugs. All you need is the correct socket and extension. I use a 3/8 ratchet in this video.
@@BobKovacs Yeah assuming you can find a 3/8" type 14mm deep socket... The one I got was 1/2" and I didn't realise it till I tried to use it then went "ohhhhhhhh..... "
Not sure where you are, but if you are in the US, Harbor Freight will have a 3/8-inch 14mm deep socket, no problem. Better still, Harbor Freight will have a 14mm spark plug socket for 3/8-inch. And not expensive, either. If you're not in the US, most any autoparts store will have the correct socket. It really is pretty common.
@@BobKovacs Thanks; it's common here too, all I'm saying is noobs like me don't know there's even such a thing as different ratchet sizes :D
i.e. just saw the 14mm deep socket and bought it without thinking to check the ratchet size
I will definitely try this, Mazda garage is charging me around 60$ a spark plugs + time, that's well over 400$ with their 110$ H wages
Good luck... it really is not that hard to do, and satisfying when you save that kind of money.
Can you show me how to replace a coil pack please.
I will have a video posted tomorrow that shows how to replace a coil pack. If you can hold on until then...
@@BobKovacs Thanks Bob, regards from Ireland.
My video on replacing a coil pack is now uploaded and will be visible in a couple of hours (at 6PM on Sept. 22 Eastern Time in the US). Here's the link to see it... and some of it will look familiar: ruclips.net/video/5xM5bQzDFI4/видео.html
Nice job.
Thanks!
You're welcome.
Thank you
You're welcome!
Very good video, only thing missing was the removal of the wires...
Extremely important that you do NOT use the ratchet, do it by hand!
My engine blew because the "mechanic" cross threaded and it blew out the engine.
Thanks. It is not necessary to remove the connectors from the coil packs to get at the spark plugs, at least on my car. I can remove the coil pack from the plug with the wire still connected.
And I have another video showing replacement of a coil pack, where I remove the connector. You can see that video here: ruclips.net/video/5xM5bQzDFI4/видео.html
Bob, but a spark plug socket.
What happen if it have oil in it
What happens if you have oil on your spark plug? I would try a new plug first, and check it in a week or two to see if it has oil. If it has no oil, then you are in good shape and the new plug was a cheap fix. If the new plug has oil, then you have oil getting into the cylinder. That would either be from bad piston rings or from leaking valve seals. The valve seals are the more likely culprit.
Good luck!
Should have put a little antiseize on the threads and should have mentioned what gap the plugs should be at.
Good tips... and you're right. I should have mentioned the correct gap. My experience in the last 20 years or so is that new plugs always have the correct gap. Of course, the design of some plugs does not allow for changing the gap.
Otherwise, I've been changing plugs in cars for more than 50 years. I have never used antisieze, and I have never had a problem removing a spark plug. Cast iron heads, aluminum heads... not a problem removing plugs in my experience.
@@BobKovacs I have changed plugs for many years as well, and have found that checking the gap is always a plus. For instance, my 99 camaro needed new plugs and wires and not checking I went ahead and put them in. Car ran like crap so I checked the gap. They were way off! Even though they claim they are pre gapped I always check now to make sure.
As far as antiseize, I find a little doesn't hurt. Just makes it easier for the next guy.
Good video tho otherwise!
The OEM plugs come gapped if you order those.
@@BobKovacs thanks for your video! Newby here...how do you check the gap (what is ‘the gap’?) and how do you change it ? This might be a silly question but I haven’t found a mechanic that can take care of my car as they say they are seriously understaffed and my car is an ‘06, never had plugs changed and is having hard time starting so I’m desperate for help. Any input I’d be appreciative!
@@rainsofhealing Spark plugs literally make a spark when the engine runs. That spark ignites the gasoline in the cylinder, and the resulting energy is what creates power. A spark plug has a gap across which the spark jumps, and this gap needs to be correct for the best engine operation. There are a variety of spark gap tools -- here is the one I have, which can be bought at any autoparts store in the US for a couple dollars: shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/performance-tool-spark-plug-gap-gauge-w80540/10075900-p?product_channel=local&store=7409&adtype=pla&product_channel=local&store_code=7409&gclid=CjwKCAjwj8eJBhA5EiwAg3z0mxjXjZnFaFVI6qsl-0rgqp5fi1FkGfJW0fJpY8eARv_8zi-q6_JPUxoC_oQQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
💡💡 HACK - add a small rubber (cut from bicycle tube etc) in the socket. Itll pull the spark plug out.
Thanks for the tip!
you cna just use the coil pack
You never said what the gap was!!
In my experience over the past 20+ years, new plugs always come correctly gapped. That said, the gap for a 2014 Mazda3 should be 1.05-1.40 mm.
Skipped pullin the cables out of coil packs
If you are replacing the spark plugs, you don't need to disconnect the coil pack -- on my car, there was enough slack to pull the coil pack off the plug with the connector still attached.
YOU FORGOT TO MENTION SOMETHING SMALL BUT HUGE AT THE SAME TIME. I AM A BEGINNER AND I LOOSENED THE BOLT WITHOUT REMOVING THE CONNECTOR. YOU DIDN'T SHOW ANYTHING ABOUT REMOVING THE CONNECTOR TO THE COIL PACK. THIS CAUSED MY CAR TO MISFIRE, NOW I HAVE TO CALL THE MECHANIC.
You can pull the coil pack off the spark plug without disconnecting the coil pack. In fact, that is preferable. I have another video about removing the coil pack where I show how to pull that connector apart. However, in my car, there is enough slack in the cables to pull the coil pack off the spark plug without disconnecting the coil pack.
@@BobKovacs I TRIED PULLING THE COIL PACK WITHOUT DISCONNECTING IT BUT I COULDN'T REMOVE THE SPARK PLUGS BECAUSE I DIDN'T HAVE AN EXTENDER. I FIGURED I COULD DO IT ON MY OWN. I'M JUST A BEGINNER, NEVER DONE THIS BEFORE BUT WATCHED A VIDEO. DIDN'T WANT TO PAY A MECHANIC SINCE IT SEEMED SIMPLE. ANYWAY I PUT THE COIL BACK AND TIGHTENED IT. SOMEHOW WHEN I START MY CAR, I GET A FLASHING CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, I HAVE A MISFIRE AND THE ENGINE SHAKES. I LOOSENED THE COIL PACK, PUT IT BACK IN AND RE-TIGHTENED IT BUT THE SAME THING HAPPENS.
@@theultimatemale6820 I don't know what to tell you. If you can get the malfunction code read, that might tell you exactly what the problem is. Many autoparts stores (in the US, anyway) will read malfunction codes for free. Go back over every step and make sure that the spark plug is screwed in properly, and that the coil pack fits correctly over the spark plug. And make sure the connector to the coil pack is attached. Good luck!
Don’t forget to lubricate the threads of the spark plugs, and put a little boot protectant on the bottom of the coil pack
Those are nice and recommended things to do. That said, I have never had a spark plug that was was stuck -- every one I've ever changed (a few hundred) has come out easily. I haven't used boot protectant, either on sparkplug boots or on coil pack boots, and never had a problem with those, either. I can see why they are potentially useful, but I've never needed or used them.
If you lubricate the thread the torque will change!
Got quoted $390 by my dealership for spark plug replacement yikes! Just bought a set and a 14mm spark plug socket.
Yes, it's not a hard job, so you will save a lot of money. Good luck!