When critiquing these things, always remember if the climber walks away with a few bruises and a good story then the protection worked. Maybe only just and there are always things that could have been better, but it did work. Good effort on the crux.
Hi @peteanenome Thanks for this terrific comment. I 100% agree with you. I’ve just uploaded some more videos, so make sure that you have subscribed and clicked the notify and like buttons so that you don’t miss any. Please keep up the excellent commenting. Enjoy your explorations.
Great footage, thanks for sharing. Glad the climber was ok. Just goes to show the importance of solid rope work and backing up gear before the hard moves begin.
Hi @WillL0, I was also very glad that he was ok! It was a shocking fall to witness on site, especially as I was viewing in close up on screen. It was a great relief to hear his voice in my ear so quickly after the fall. That sling position is without doubt a life-saver, and I understand that this particular sling has now been retired. Thanks for your valued comment. Enjoy your explorations.
Hi @nickc4716, Thanks for your valued comment I agree with you and having seen this climb a few times now, I find that everyone does it slightly differently. Again, that is the joy of this sport. Please keep watching the videos and keep commenting. It good to get the input of experienced climbers. Enjoy your explorations.
Yes the comments are more than justified with trusting the cam & it should have been backed up but just wanted to say good effort & I’m glad he’s okay. I hope their confidence wasn’t knocked by this effort.
Hi Elliot, thanks for your comment. I’m happy to report that the climber is in good health and keen to carry out the climb again. Enjoy your explorations.
Main lesson - cams are not 100% reliable, and to place so much faith in a single runner is poor practice, especially when there only appears to be one backup. I'm not one to over-protect routes, but going for moves at your limit with only two, widely-spaced runners is just asking for trouble. 10/10 for effort though!
From some a photo taken just before the fall you can see that the cam is twisted up and out of alignment by the caught rope. A hex or nut in the same situation would likely have been pulled up and clean out before the fall.
@@isaaccormack4384I would appreciate your thoughts, I don’t think it was that bad as the sling just below looked bomber, the rope seems to have got caught up on gear on the right side of the harness. Relived he was ok .🙂
Hi all, I have delayed replying to this comment because I was enjoying your conversation. In the main I agree with all of your comments and I have given my opinions on other comments which I hope you have also read. As with all climbing, gear is placed to protect all participants. It’s not uncommon for some of that gear to fail due to many different reasons. This is a dangerous sport and that’s one of the reasons we do it. So, protect yourself and your co-climbers and enjoy your sport. Then afterwards we can all have a fun time critiquing others effort, which is also part of the sport. Enjoy your explorations.
Hi @quietfire286, thanks for the comment. It’s always good to get feedback. I have another 50+ climbs waiting to be edited, so make sure your subscribed so that you don’t miss any of them. Enjoy your explorations.
Climbers comment at the end that they'd done the hard move. No, the hard bit is getting vertical again. The roof is actually the easy bit. The cam looked like it had walked back in the crack and wasn't camming properly on the left lobes (hard to see on this vid tbh). Either way, relying on one piece isn't best practice (even though that's exactly what I did first time up Sloth back in 1998 or whenever)
Hi @menakles, Thanks for your valued comment and was hoping to get a complete climb through on this occasion to support what you are saying. I agree with you and having seen this climb a few times now, I find that everyone does it slightly differently. Again, that is the joy of this sport. Please keep watching the videos and keep commenting. It good to get the input of experienced climbers. Enjoy your explorations.
Hi @hairymotter5455, thanks for your comment. I have just posted this reply to another commentor and I feel it is relevant to your comment too. I know that quite a lot of conversation was had regarding this climb and I know that the use of a various protection methods was discussed. From personal experience, I have found that regardless of the plans and ideas, what we do in the heat of the moment is often completely different to what we intended. Depending on the stress levels and effort involved, we will all make different decisions. Some good, some not so good. As long as we are able to tell the tale afterwards and share our experiences and join in the discussions, that’s what really matters. Please keep commenting, subscribe and join in the conversation. Enjoy your explorations
What was the belayer doing? He shouldn't have fell that far. It looks like they were stood away from the wall and got pulled in when he fell. Also the orange rope would have been better for clipping everything below the roof and the white for above.
Hi Lee, yes it was a long drop! Thanks for your valued input. I think we can all agree that hindsight is a great thing and perhaps we would all have done the climb differently. Other climbers opinions are valuable when considering our own approach to a climb. I’ve just gone back to the original footage and I’m estimating that he was about 3 metres above the sling when he fell. There was around another 1.5 metres of rope between above the cam which had wrapped over his leg and got trapped in his gear. The belayer had also given some slack to try and help the climber release over the top as he moved above the cam. Add to that the stretch in the rope from slack to tension, this adds up to a drop of around 6-7 meters below the sling. With the level of shock loading, I would expect the belayer to move slightly. With that level of drop, I suggest that if I was the climber, I would be applauding the belayer. Thanks again for your valued input.
When critiquing these things, always remember if the climber walks away with a few bruises and a good story then the protection worked. Maybe only just and there are always things that could have been better, but it did work. Good effort on the crux.
Hi @peteanenome
Thanks for this terrific comment. I 100% agree with you.
I’ve just uploaded some more videos, so make sure that you have subscribed and clicked the notify and like buttons so that you don’t miss any.
Please keep up the excellent commenting.
Enjoy your explorations.
Great footage, thanks for sharing. Glad the climber was ok.
Just goes to show the importance of solid rope work and backing up gear before the hard moves begin.
Hi @WillL0,
I was also very glad that he was ok! It was a shocking fall to witness on site, especially as I was viewing in close up on screen. It was a great relief to hear his voice in my ear so quickly after the fall.
That sling position is without doubt a life-saver, and I understand that this particular sling has now been retired.
Thanks for your valued comment. Enjoy your explorations.
With the red rope on the sling, think I’d have put the white rope on the cam.
Hi @nickc4716,
Thanks for your valued comment I agree with you and having seen this climb a few times now, I find that everyone does it slightly differently. Again, that is the joy of this sport.
Please keep watching the videos and keep commenting. It good to get the input of experienced climbers.
Enjoy your explorations.
Yes the comments are more than justified with trusting the cam & it should have been backed up but just wanted to say good effort & I’m glad he’s okay.
I hope their confidence wasn’t knocked by this effort.
Hi Elliot, thanks for your comment. I’m happy to report that the climber is in good health and keen to carry out the climb again. Enjoy your explorations.
Main lesson - cams are not 100% reliable, and to place so much faith in a single runner is poor practice, especially when there only appears to be one backup. I'm not one to over-protect routes, but going for moves at your limit with only two, widely-spaced runners is just asking for trouble. 10/10 for effort though!
From some a photo taken just before the fall you can see that the cam is twisted up and out of alignment by the caught rope. A hex or nut in the same situation would likely have been pulled up and clean out before the fall.
Having so much faith in a single runner is common for HVS. I think this goes at E1 if you only sling the block ;)
@@isaaccormack4384I would appreciate your thoughts, I don’t think it was that bad as the sling just below looked bomber, the rope seems to have got caught up on gear on the right side of the harness. Relived he was ok .🙂
Hi all,
I have delayed replying to this comment because I was enjoying your conversation.
In the main I agree with all of your comments and I have given my opinions on other comments which I hope you have also read.
As with all climbing, gear is placed to protect all participants. It’s not uncommon for some of that gear to fail due to many different reasons. This is a dangerous sport and that’s one of the reasons we do it. So, protect yourself and your co-climbers and enjoy your sport. Then afterwards we can all have a fun time critiquing others effort, which is also part of the sport.
Enjoy your explorations.
great footage
Hi @quietfire286, thanks for the comment. It’s always good to get feedback. I have another 50+ climbs waiting to be edited, so make sure your subscribed so that you don’t miss any of them. Enjoy your explorations.
Climbers comment at the end that they'd done the hard move. No, the hard bit is getting vertical again. The roof is actually the easy bit.
The cam looked like it had walked back in the crack and wasn't camming properly on the left lobes (hard to see on this vid tbh). Either way, relying on one piece isn't best practice (even though that's exactly what I did first time up Sloth back in 1998 or whenever)
Hi @menakles,
Thanks for your valued comment and was hoping to get a complete climb through on this occasion to support what you are saying. I agree with you and having seen this climb a few times now, I find that everyone does it slightly differently. Again, that is the joy of this sport.
Please keep watching the videos and keep commenting. It good to get the input of experienced climbers.
Enjoy your explorations.
Good attempt and unlucky. Maybe back that cam up with your biggest cowbell, it can virtually be thrown in place above the cam
Hi @hairymotter5455, thanks for your comment. I have just posted this reply to another commentor and I feel it is relevant to your comment too. I know that quite a lot of conversation was had regarding this climb and I know that the use of a various protection methods was discussed.
From personal experience, I have found that regardless of the plans and ideas, what we do in the heat of the moment is often completely different to what we intended. Depending on the stress levels and effort involved, we will all make different decisions. Some good, some not so good. As long as we are able to tell the tale afterwards and share our experiences and join in the discussions, that’s what really matters.
Please keep commenting, subscribe and join in the conversation.
Enjoy your explorations
What was the belayer doing? He shouldn't have fell that far. It looks like they were stood away from the wall and got pulled in when he fell. Also the orange rope would have been better for clipping everything below the roof and the white for above.
Hi Lee, yes it was a long drop! Thanks for your valued input. I think we can all agree that hindsight is a great thing and perhaps we would all have done the climb differently. Other climbers opinions are valuable when considering our own approach to a climb.
I’ve just gone back to the original footage and I’m estimating that he was about 3 metres above the sling when he fell. There was around another 1.5 metres of rope between above the cam which had wrapped over his leg and got trapped in his gear. The belayer had also given some slack to try and help the climber release over the top as he moved above the cam. Add to that the stretch in the rope from slack to tension, this adds up to a drop of around 6-7 meters below the sling. With the level of shock loading, I would expect the belayer to move slightly.
With that level of drop, I suggest that if I was the climber, I would be applauding the belayer.
Thanks again for your valued input.