I enjoyed this video very much. It reminded me of climbing back in the 1970s before chalk became popular, which meant finding the best handholds, or indeed any hand hold, was half the fun. Excellent.
Very kind of you, thank you. Tell you what, I still remember every single move on this and exactly how I felt. I took ages to compose myself but the memories will hopefully be with me forever.
@@andyslack9592 so so true! This is one of those routes that will burn into the brain both physically but especially mentally. And it isn't hard! Bloody scary on onsight though.
Well done on a fab lead, you clearly enjoyed that! I had dreams of climbing it myself when I was a bit younger. That was till I saw it in the flesh and at the same time climbed on grit for the first time. My aspirations were very quickly forgotten 😅 That was despite being a competent hard VS climber on our somewhat different rock in Glencoe and Skye.
Think it needs a clear head and steady hands. It is easier than it looks but very exposed! This was my onsight attempt as well so took me ages to get my head into the right gear! 🤣 Very glad for those resting ledges👍😂
I remember my first time on this. It was a headf*ck. Not technically hard, but psychologically very challenging. Still gives me sweaty palms thinking about it. Great video btw.
Same here mate. It is very easy climbing but when you see it on the approach it makes me feel so insignificant even though it is relatively small (when you do it all) 🤣👍
@@michaltheb Just missing the bit when you climbed up to set the high level sling... the vid doesn't do justice on the overhang though... I've got one of those Hex's, you can recognise the sound from 100 paces - never be too safe! Stay well!
Agree! Once you get to the crux there is no easy way to back off but once you get the right holds, you are pretty much done with it. Good luck giving it your first ascent.
@@michaltheb You were well prepped with you gear under the roof and then backed off to compose yourself, that's how my mate did it. Surprisingly easy route and the trickiest part is the off width after the pull over the roof. Right now I'll be happy to get some sport leads done if this lockdown ever ends.
Nicely put together looked very competent difficulties encountered sorted well controlled and workmanlike. Didn't turn into a thug at the top, would,ve been easy to thrash about and loose composure, credit do mate. Cheers
@R C you see? told ya! You can lead this one next time and as soon as I will find out what is all about the "dual rope" and how to use it, I will lead Valkyrie. easy 😉 (after yesterday I definitely will think about any source of water as my heavy breathing (more like panting) is drying me to a point that I can barely speak 😂😂). but being completely serious, I definitely need few more around that grade before challenging the Sloth and Valkyrie
Good job, just little bit of feedback it's best practice really to clip a runner at the top, then build yourself a belay and attach to that before shouting safe. This way any issues at the top don't lead to you decking out! Top work on the lead though well done.
I enjoyed this video very much. It reminded me of climbing back in the 1970s before chalk became popular, which meant finding the best handholds, or indeed any hand hold, was half the fun. Excellent.
Very kind of you, thank you. Tell you what, I still remember every single move on this and exactly how I felt. I took ages to compose myself but the memories will hopefully be with me forever.
SAFE! your not, I've seen people come flying out of there with a piece of broken rock
Thanks pal! I was pretty sure I was safe matey but I appreciate the sentiment in your comment.
Great video man, glad to see someone who has the same struggles and range of emotions going through a climb as me!
Won't ever deny that, it was very emotional however I was in the right place right time! Thanks for the compliments, it is appreciated! 👍💥
I also did it in the 80s , a memorable route, put a sling around the block, disengage brain & go for it!
@@andyslack9592 so so true! This is one of those routes that will burn into the brain both physically but especially mentally. And it isn't hard! Bloody scary on onsight though.
OMG. I was waiting for you to place some gear on the last section and then SAFE ! 😯
What a funky climb. Looks fun in a struggle sort of way
Thought you were off to do some 'freebase' when you set off....
Well done on a fab lead, you clearly enjoyed that! I had dreams of climbing it myself when I was a bit younger. That was till I saw it in the flesh and at the same time climbed on grit for the first time. My aspirations were very quickly forgotten 😅 That was despite being a competent hard VS climber on our somewhat different rock in Glencoe and Skye.
Think it needs a clear head and steady hands. It is easier than it looks but very exposed! This was my onsight attempt as well so took me ages to get my head into the right gear! 🤣 Very glad for those resting ledges👍😂
I am really impressed. thx for that video!
Looks like such a hard a route than the grades states. Will definitely be given this a try. Well done.
Loved it and luckily there is plenty of opportunities to rest and get your head into gear. Hope you get up there and do it! All the best
I did it in the 80s with one sling for protection around the block below the roof! 😮 Probably because I was too weak to hang around placing gear 😅
I remember my first time on this. It was a headf*ck. Not technically hard, but psychologically very challenging. Still gives me sweaty palms thinking about it. Great video btw.
Same here mate. It is very easy climbing but when you see it on the approach it makes me feel so insignificant even though it is relatively small (when you do it all) 🤣👍
Great vid chap. Still on my tick list along with Valkyrie.
Was on mine for a while too. It is one of those you build up to and then you think back how easy but emotional the climbing was! Memories for life.
@@michaltheb Just missing the bit when you climbed up to set the high level sling... the vid doesn't do justice on the overhang though... I've got one of those Hex's, you can recognise the sound from 100 paces - never be too safe! Stay well!
Severo pegue, tremendo run-out !
Awesome, made me sweat from the comfort of my couch, well done 👍
Aye. Coming up on 70 year since first ascent by Don.
get more gear in!! You can lace that up
Very well done sir
@@tomwells2852 thank you. Was a long time ago and I am not sure I'd ever want to repeat that! 😁
Nice lead well done ":) I've only done it as a second and that was still intimidating
Agree! Once you get to the crux there is no easy way to back off but once you get the right holds, you are pretty much done with it. Good luck giving it your first ascent.
@@michaltheb You were well prepped with you gear under the roof and then backed off to compose yourself, that's how my mate did it. Surprisingly easy route and the trickiest part is the off width after the pull over the roof. Right now I'll be happy to get some sport leads done if this lockdown ever ends.
Nicely put together looked very competent difficulties encountered sorted well controlled and workmanlike. Didn't turn into a thug at the top, would,ve been easy to thrash about and loose composure, credit do mate. Cheers
Tried before Xmas but bottled it half way up the roof. Will be back with a better head game :-)
soon R. soon! 😊
There is one move that is quite scary but all on jugs and you will look back and go "what was I thinking", it is all fine
@R C you see? told ya! You can lead this one next time and as soon as I will find out what is all about the "dual rope" and how to use it, I will lead Valkyrie. easy 😉 (after yesterday I definitely will think about any source of water as my heavy breathing (more like panting) is drying me to a point that I can barely speak 😂😂). but being completely serious, I definitely need few more around that grade before challenging the Sloth and Valkyrie
Have you gone back to this?
Tried it in 1980 and failed. Well done
Good job, just little bit of feedback it's best practice really to clip a runner at the top, then build yourself a belay and attach to that before shouting safe. This way any issues at the top don't lead to you decking out! Top work on the lead though well done.
Thanks man, appreciate that.