There was a lot of stuff that I wouldn’t of done in this video that I would advise people not to do. Don’t hammer your caliper off. Take a screw driver and pry against the pad and rotor pushing the caliper in. Second don’t try and press the ball joint in on the stud. They make better kits then the one he had that you can rent. Ask for the 4x4 kit or master ball joint kit.Third when tightening your upper control arm and ball joint back make sure and jack the lower control arm up with the knuckle to factory ride height. If you notice the upper control arm is on bushings and only gives so much. Tightening with it lowered will cause premature wear on the bushings. And one last thing as far as the upper ball joint goes if you have the factory rivets still in yes it’s easier to change the whole control arm but if yours has been replaced they should have bolts and will be a lot easier and cheaper.Plus you won’t have to go get an alignment because once you pull the whole upper arm and have moved the cam washers around it will need to be aligned. Sorry for the long post just wanted to save some people some possible headaches I could see happening from this video.
Are you done?? This cat did all this in a drive way probably a public drive way without power tools and all technique. So can it or make a better video Todd
That's why I payedthe pros to do it for me I was going to try AND do it my self I said fuck it spend the money I really don't have but fuck it save up a little bit and let the pros do it. I'm happy I live in Los Angeles and u just never know when u might hit a big ass pot hole on the streets and even on the freeway and lose control and kill ur self are anybody else.Dont want neither so I had to pay the pros to do it.i need to open up me a suppension shop.They make plenty money here in L.A.With all these BAD ASS STREETS AND ROADS.ITS BEEN LIKE THIS FOR EVER.ITS A Money game BETWEEN THE CITY AND THE SUPPENSION SHOPS FOR Decades AND WE THE PEOPLES Have PAYED THE PRICE.THEY GOT POT HOLES IN SOME PARTS OF CITIES That.U Could Put Literal YOUR LEG IN IT AND IT WOULD COME UP TO YOUR Knee All THEY DO IS PATCH IT UP Until Another 20 cars bust their suspension then they PATCH it up again.LosAngeles have the baddest roads and streets and freeways in America.for a big city.But I love L.A.Bad Streets And All But it's fucked up driving here.
@@veegaveera138 how do you know you dont need an alignment? Do you have an alignment rack so you can tell if your camber is correct. You dont have to have one but after about six months and your tires are wore out on one side you probably will wish you did.
Great video, thanks for solidifying order of operations for a big project I'm doing, especially with the lower CA tension. Not to sound like a pedant but something to do if your ball joint press doesn't have a cup for the lower stud side of the ball joint - put the OLD castle nut back on the new balljoint, upside down, until it's just shy of showing the threads on the other side of the nut. Use that flat surface to press your joint in - it will avoid mushrooming of the post and damage to the new nut. Just swap it out with the new one once you're pressed in and torque.
Planning to do this on my '97 this spring/summer. Hopefully you felt a difference in the handling? Thanks for taking time to show us your method and experience.
I have a 99 2wheel drive Tahoe same body style I got to do the upper control arm and ball joints you made it look simple I thought it was more difficult than what it really is
Well just as a heads up to some people. NEVER AND I MEAN EVER! hit your brake caliper with a hammer. Use prybar or a flat head screwdriver and slowly pry up to check resistance. If it has resistance then put the pry bar between the caliper and outer pad. To pull the caliper to you. This pushes in the piston of the caliper as it normally would to protect it from ppl from damaging it. And then u push in the caliper as it would normally do by its self. Alot easier that hitting it. And it also protects your parts
That's a lot of work I see why the suspension shop charge me 325.00 to do my right side and I bought thetop and lower ball joints and control arm bushings and I don't blame them.even if I had the tools that's just to much.so I paid for the pros to do it the left side was alright but I had them do that side to fuck it get it done right. I'm happy cost a pretty penny but I didn't want to be on Los Angeles freeways and lose control and die people out here drive like really bats out of hell and the roads and many of the streets are TRULY fucked up.but I give u credit u saved some money.that was a lot of work.hats off to u my man woo.
It’s amazing that every video that they use the Ball joint tool never shows the whole process of using the tool properly for the whole thing they either use it or taking it out and don’t show the rest or in your case show fast forward what you see is the video thumbs
Sigh. Gees I wish I’d have found this video sooner. I’ve spent all day fighting with the lower ball joint on the same truck. I got it used. I’ve done the rag joint. Got the tie rods done. Upper ball joint done. But the lower is bleh. I did NOT know I needed the 4x4 adapter set 😑😢 On mine tho I had to use a cut off wheel to cut the rivets in my upper ball joint. Off. Yours came out. I put my ball joint press on exactly how you did. But it just didn’t wanna come out. I was using an air gun on it too.
There’s an adapter in the kit to go over the lip on the ball joint to press it guys do not press it by the thread or the castle nut when installing a ball joint
Yes you should if you replaced the whole upper control arm. I’d you noticed there was two washers that where shaped funny. Those are cams that are for your alignment. Even if you marked um it’s recommended to get an alignment. Especially if you didn’t mark um
Did the wheel hub assembly just pull strait out from where the 6 bolt flange is? I missed how you removed that .(fast motion) Thank you for your great work of sharing your know-how!
Hello . i have a question . what is the name of the part of drop bracket graving the upper control arm ? lift kit places want to sell me complete kit & not just that part.
How can you tell if you have a forged lower control arm so you buy the correct lower ball joint? I have a 97 K1500 regular cab 5.7 and my lower control arm looks like yours.
If I understand you correctly, your talking about the bottom ball joint going in. Skip to around the 15 min mark, you have to use the c clamp to push on that bolt, I left the nut on it to give the clamp somewhere to press on.
@@mrnydam I think I'll need some bigger jack stands so I can lift the truck up higher, then flip the press around. That way I'm pressing it in rather then trying to pull
@@mrnydam I can't get them pressed in so I am trying to remove the lower control arm so I can take it to a press. The bolt holding the control arm in place hits the front differential so I will need to cut the bolt. 1995 isn't chevys best year!
Never ever ever press or pound on the the new ball joint stud you wrecked that ball joint on the inside..... that piece that you put over and said to pound it in but couldn't cause not enough room should have been used with the press.... what you did makes that a very unsafe vehicle.
so im doing same job, upper a arms with new lower ball joints. The lowers came out alright but upon reinstalling them i actually broke the ring/collars with only hand tools. broke 2 ball joints in 5 minutes? cheap parts, or?
Хобби
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There was a lot of stuff that I wouldn’t of done in this video that I would advise people not to do. Don’t hammer your caliper off. Take a screw driver and pry against the pad and rotor pushing the caliper in. Second don’t try and press the ball joint in on the stud. They make better kits then the one he had that you can rent. Ask for the 4x4 kit or master ball joint kit.Third when tightening your upper control arm and ball joint back make sure and jack the lower control arm up with the knuckle to factory ride height. If you notice the upper control arm is on bushings and only gives so much. Tightening with it lowered will cause premature wear on the bushings. And one last thing as far as the upper ball joint goes if you have the factory rivets still in yes it’s easier to change the whole control arm but if yours has been replaced they should have bolts and will be a lot easier and cheaper.Plus you won’t have to go get an alignment because once you pull the whole upper arm and have moved the cam washers around it will need to be aligned. Sorry for the long post just wanted to save some people some possible headaches I could see happening from this video.
Are you done?? This cat did all this in a drive way probably a public drive way without power tools and all technique. So can it or make a better video Todd
That's why I payedthe pros to do it for me I was going to try AND do it my self I said fuck it spend the money I really don't have but fuck it save up a little bit and let the pros do it. I'm happy I live in Los Angeles and u just never know when u might hit a big ass pot hole on the streets and even on the freeway and lose control and kill ur self are anybody else.Dont want neither so I had to pay the pros to do it.i need to open up me a suppension shop.They make plenty money here in L.A.With all these BAD ASS STREETS AND ROADS.ITS BEEN LIKE THIS FOR EVER.ITS A Money game BETWEEN THE CITY AND THE SUPPENSION SHOPS FOR Decades AND WE THE PEOPLES Have PAYED THE PRICE.THEY GOT POT HOLES IN SOME PARTS OF CITIES That.U Could Put Literal YOUR LEG IN IT AND IT WOULD COME UP TO YOUR Knee All THEY DO IS PATCH IT UP Until Another 20 cars bust their suspension then they PATCH it up again.LosAngeles have the baddest roads and streets and freeways in America.for a big city.But I love L.A.Bad Streets And All But it's fucked up driving here.
I changed both upper control arms and didnt need an alignment. Also didn't remove caliper and they both installed beautifully in less than 2 hrs.
@@veegaveera138 how do you know you dont need an alignment? Do you have an alignment rack so you can tell if your camber is correct. You dont have to have one but after about six months and your tires are wore out on one side you probably will wish you did.
Great video, thanks for solidifying order of operations for a big project I'm doing, especially with the lower CA tension. Not to sound like a pedant but something to do if your ball joint press doesn't have a cup for the lower stud side of the ball joint - put the OLD castle nut back on the new balljoint, upside down, until it's just shy of showing the threads on the other side of the nut. Use that flat surface to press your joint in - it will avoid mushrooming of the post and damage to the new nut. Just swap it out with the new one once you're pressed in and torque.
Planning to do this on my '97 this spring/summer. Hopefully you felt a difference in the handling? Thanks for taking time to show us your method and experience.
I have a 99 2wheel drive Tahoe same body style I got to do the upper control arm and ball joints you made it look simple I thought it was more difficult than what it really is
Wow thanks for fast forwarding through the actual important stuff
Go to the "settings" gear on the video and reduce the playback speed to 0.25. It's not perfect, but it's better than full speed
Well just as a heads up to some people. NEVER AND I MEAN EVER! hit your brake caliper with a hammer. Use prybar or a flat head screwdriver and slowly pry up to check resistance. If it has resistance then put the pry bar between the caliper and outer pad. To pull the caliper to you. This pushes in the piston of the caliper as it normally would to protect it from ppl from damaging it. And then u push in the caliper as it would normally do by its self. Alot easier that hitting it. And it also protects your parts
Great video. Real good explanations of what your doing. Made me a lot more confident going into this project.
That's a lot of work I see why the suspension shop charge me 325.00 to do my right side and I bought thetop and lower ball joints and control arm bushings and I don't blame them.even if I had the tools that's just to much.so I paid for the pros to do it the left side was alright but I had them do that side to fuck it get it done right. I'm happy cost a pretty penny but I didn't want to be on Los Angeles freeways and lose control and die people out here drive like really bats out of hell and the roads and many of the streets are TRULY fucked up.but I give u credit u saved some money.that was a lot of work.hats off to u my man woo.
It’s amazing that every video that they use the Ball joint tool never shows the whole process of using the tool properly for the whole thing they either use it or taking it out and don’t show the rest or in your case show fast forward what you see is the video thumbs
There a sleeve that goes over the lower ball joint so not to press it in with the tread part???
Great video man. Much appreciated!
In the very beginning of the video what was the last socket size you said is needed thank you
Great video man. Thanks for all the tips.
Just for everyone's information the axle nut is a 36 mm
When you were going over the needed tools in the beginning you said I needed a 7/8ths millimeter socket, is that some sort of specialty tool?
Lol, my bad I said 7/8 millimeter, I ment just a regular 7/8th Sae socket, sorry for that confusion
Sigh.
Gees I wish I’d have found this video sooner.
I’ve spent all day fighting with the lower ball joint on the same truck. I got it used. I’ve done the rag joint. Got the tie rods done. Upper ball joint done. But the lower is bleh. I did NOT know I needed the 4x4 adapter set 😑😢
On mine tho I had to use a cut off wheel to cut the rivets in my upper ball joint.
Off. Yours came out.
I put my ball joint press on exactly how you did. But it just didn’t wanna come out. I was using an air gun on it too.
There’s an adapter in the kit to go over the lip on the ball joint to press it guys do not press it by the thread or the castle nut when installing a ball joint
When should you torque the axle nut. Before or after you drop the tires on the floor ?
I just did mine should I get a alignment after that with doing upper control arm
Yes you should if you replaced the whole upper control arm. I’d you noticed there was two washers that where shaped funny. Those are cams that are for your alignment. Even if you marked um it’s recommended to get an alignment. Especially if you didn’t mark um
Great video bro.. Very well informative
Did the wheel hub assembly just pull strait out from where the 6 bolt flange is?
I missed how you removed that .(fast motion) Thank you for your great work of sharing your know-how!
No worries, thanks for your comment. Yes it does pull straight out but you may have to smack it from the back to get it loose
THE SHOP MANUAL REQUIRES YOU TO USE LOCKTITE 680 ADHESIVE ON THE LOWER BALL JOINT.
I HATE LOCTITE! TIGHTEN IT AND SHIP IT
I wish I could have seen what that strap help up but the whole thing don’t look too hard 👌
I wish you did not fast forward so we can see better and understand the Procedure. Thank You very much
Yea I didnt want to fast forward that much , but it was already 20 min vid, so had to, whole job will take about 1.5-2 hrs
Lucky you have it lifted. Mine is slammed 🤦🏻♂️ Double the work
Where can I find a new lower control arm for my 98 z71 can't seem to find complete arm anywhere
If im only doing the upper balljoint do i have to loosen the axle nut? i do not have a large enough socket for it.
Im confused on what i need to mark on the upper control arm.
I got all the tools in the video and I cant get the press to put the ball joint in straight, any suggestions?
Me too ugh. Any suggestions
Hello . i have a question . what is the name of the part of drop bracket graving the upper control arm ? lift kit places want to sell me complete kit & not just that part.
what size lift kit do you have on your truck, and what size are the rims
I have a 4in lift with 33's on 18's, nothing too obnoxious and still able to tow
Hey sir, I am replacing the exact same parts on my truck. Can you please send me the Amazon links, for the parts you replaced?
I just went down to my local o Reilly's for the parts
@@mrnydam how much did they cost you?
How can you tell if you have a forged lower control arm so you buy the correct lower ball joint? I have a 97 K1500 regular cab 5.7 and my lower control arm looks like yours.
Then it's stamped
I can't get the press on with the bolt on the bottom. It can't pull the ball joint in, not sure what I'll do
If I understand you correctly, your talking about the bottom ball joint going in. Skip to around the 15 min mark, you have to use the c clamp to push on that bolt, I left the nut on it to give the clamp somewhere to press on.
@@mrnydam I think I'll need some bigger jack stands so I can lift the truck up higher, then flip the press around. That way I'm pressing it in rather then trying to pull
@@mrnydam I can't get them pressed in so I am trying to remove the lower control arm so I can take it to a press. The bolt holding the control arm in place hits the front differential so I will need to cut the bolt. 1995 isn't chevys best year!
Do u have a 6 inch rancho lift
And 2500 same?
Do you have a link to the adapter set? Or is this able to be rented at autozone as well?
Sorry I dont have a link but I rented it from there yes
This man zoomed through the most critical part of the video. You can't make this stuff up
That sleeve is meant to help install the boot, not the whole ball joint 🤦🏽♂️
Never ever ever press or pound on the the new ball joint stud you wrecked that ball joint on the inside..... that piece that you put over and said to pound it in but couldn't cause not enough room should have been used with the press.... what you did makes that a very unsafe vehicle.
This was painful
so im doing same job, upper a arms with new lower ball joints. The lowers came out alright but upon reinstalling them i actually broke the ring/collars with only hand tools. broke 2 ball joints in 5 minutes? cheap parts, or?
Yea I'd have to say so, I pounded on mine like no tomorrow and they didnt break