This is a great little gadget. In large part to RUclips mentors like you I found my way into a tool and die maker program at technical college. As part of my course work I have to put in a certain amount of machine time every week. Part of that time is to work on the projects provided by the teachers but the rest of it we have to come up with ourselves and I've spent the last month working on all these awesome shop aids you've shown off and they are the handiest things to have. Thanks a bunch for not only inspiring me but also teaching me a lot that my actual teachers haven't.
Neat solution! I have to admit that i didnt see a problem picking up the edge without the gadged until you explained that this will work on any angle. If the workpiece is at 90- deg. you can do it the normal method picking the edge on both sides and divide. Thanks for the explenation! If I ever get a mill this will for sure come in handy. Cheers, Norman
With a little trig you can do it for any known set of right triangles. You just drop down a known amount from the top of the part and use the base of the opposing triangles to figure out the % of the total amount to deduct for each side.
Very interesting. I enjoy the clarity with which you explain what you are doing and the reasoning behind it. Thanks for taking time to share your knowledge.
The nice thing about that is that you will get your true center of the corner regardless of what angle you clamp the part in the vise at. I might have to make one of those. simple and clever.
Thanks for posting. I was looking for something to model in Fusion360. I'm trying to learn it. I did a imperial version a bit bigger. Looks like a handy tool for the toolbox. As always your workmanship was excellent.
Thanks for the video! I am a very inexperienced chip maker, not even allowed to use the term machinist yet :) What I don't understand is why anyone would click "thumbs down" after watching this? Excellent production, outstanding machine shop, and top notch work practices. I just don't get it? jealousy maybe....anyway, have a good day, and I am off to watch another one.... G.
That will work for a 90 Degree edge only. All other angles will either need a special one of these tools or different tactics and some trig calculations. Of course optical can as you said Stefan, get you close. Also the shallower the angle with a tool like this the more likely an error can creep in because it becomes more difficult to feel the tool seat securely over the apex. Just a couple of long after thoughts, Cheers from John, Australia.
For workpiece angles other than 90 deg. An accurate "x" shaped cradle could be used which has a stiff pivot in the centre. This could be fitted onto the peak and a pin laid in the cradle, then the centre of the pin could be found. This will work on any workpiece angle but the peak must be set with the angles equal either side. I'm sure with a bit of trig it could be used with the peak leaning to one side.
Great little gadget Stefan, sehr gute arbeit. If I may make a suggestion: Instead of keeping the device in place with your finger it might be possible to incorporate a small neodymium magnet in the design. Or just place it somewhere on the workpiece. I would recon that the residual magnetism between the workpiece and the gadget would keep it in place for the touchoff.
Great idea, not sure if I need one but will make one all the same. If you don't have a disc mic, as most people wont, if you sit the blank in a square, while it is being machined, you could use a depth mic between the cut surfaces and the square;s arms. At least that is how I shall do it, even though I do have a disc mic.
Stefan Gotteswinter Or, put a gauge block in the cut out and measure the OD with a mic. I did it this way so I could mix up Imp and Metric measurements when finishing a metric "pacman" on an Imp surface grinder (used a metric block and imp mic). I find normal mics are less prone to operator stupidity than depth mics. :>( OK, I know I could have set up a Metric DTI on the grinder but it was too much bother.
This is exactly how I did it. The gauge blocks were a little tricky to manage. I wrung the stack together so they overhung the center point. They were hard to hold in place, and even harder to get video with my hands in the way. ruclips.net/video/lWVfD8Q4cv4/видео.html
If you have a large part that has a chamfer too large for this tool, then you can use a vee block with a ground rod clamped in the opposite vee. Again it will be 1/2 the edge finder diameter + 1/2 of whatever size the ground rod diameter is. Stefans tool and the vee block will only work if the the corner that you wish to find is at 90 degrees. If you are unsure of the accuracy of the vee block, it will pay you to check that the vee's are in the center of the block. Do not panic if they are not, make a note of the out of center error and take this into account when edge finding. This will still be more accurate than doing it by eye, especially if the edge has a chamfer. Hope this helps.
if you have a work piece angle significantly larger or smaller than 90° then you got problems. What I suggest is that you make another one out of two pieces that rotate to fit larger or smaller angles. Done right, the tool's radius wouldn't change due to rotation. What do you think, Stefan? Is that something that could work? Thanks! :)
I think if I was going to use it with one particular edge finder, I'd make it so that I ended up taking off either 10mm or 20mm in total. It simplifies things for my simple mind. Although as far as I can see it will only work with a 90 degree angled workpiece. Anyway, its been added to my homemade workshop tool list.
Great gadget to have in the box! Finding the theoretical intersection of two planes can be tricky, especially when the work is at odd angles. A ball wiggler and a little trig was always my solution, but this tool makes it faster and much simpler. I would, however, when using an edge finder, hit both sides and divide by 2. This helps correct for edge finder error. Thanks Stefan!
Would it be possible to drill two small holes on the flat faces and glue in small Neo. magnets? Counter bored of course? Great idea you have there. Nice.
Very nice gadget -- or is it a centering jig? Unfortunately for me, I don't think that anyone makes a center finder for the Proxxon MF70 I have. The point method works for me, but one must remember it is subject to parallax and sight square with the Y axis. Even at loupe distance.
Stefan, I remember using a similar tool on Jig Bores a long time ago and it was magnetic. Of course that does not address non-ferrous materials nor the satisfaction of making your own tool. keep up the great videos!
Smal and simple gadget for a great result. I will copy. So Stefan, I was thinking: I've read your answer to magnet question but why don't make smalls pockets on the contact surfaces to accomodate micro magnets? I have some disk magnets 3 mm diameters that are really very strong. Obviously the magnet must be plane with the surface.
Cosimo Marotta I am a bit picky on the magnets - Even if they are dropped in pockets they still tend to collect the smallest chip every time you absolutely dont need them ;)
Nice idea and presentation. This is good for parts with 90-degree corner. Could be better if we can conceive to one that can adapt to angles other than 90-degrees.
Stefan, i watched this video with great interest, but was this just a practical "exercise", or you made this jig because you need it to solve a particular difficulty in a project you have? I mean, where's the purpose?
José Dias Pinto I dont need it right now, but I was in the mood for a little project that might be interesting to watch and be a neat solution for a problem that occures from time to time. But when the day comes that I need it I will pad myself on the shoulder ;)
Clever idea, and as always, the execution is exquisite - but I think if you find yourself reaching for this often, someone should have a talk with your designers/engineers about using work holes. Dimensioning to a theoretical sharp point is fine as a reference, but really shouldn't be relied on for anything that matters. And yes, if you just ground a corner dead square and sharp, it's probably pretty close to actually being a sharp point - right up until it gets deburred or used, and then it isn't anymore. Then it's a theoretical sharp point, and someone would need a clever tool like yours to repeat your setup/measurements. Work holes (when you can get away with them) don't have that problem.
This angle hole problem creeps up in mould production work constantly, usually the holes are at an angle of 15-20 degrees. Or a hole. The problem is, how do you dimension the hole location and also find it easily when machining, when it is the only hole? Or when the workpiece has maybe only one 90 degree corner in it? The easy answer is to dimension from known edges, be it theoretical point or not, and have a tool just like this to easily find it on the machine.
traderahasse I think I copied that somewhere too - I am not sure but I think I have seen something like that commercialy availible. Thanks for commenting :)
And a collector for fine particles of swarf ;) I try to keep the use of magnets to a minimum because they are in day-to-day use a bit of a pain in keeping clean.
Wouldnt a needle that would complete an electric circuit and beep find that corner easily? Start from a little above, go left and right, if it doesn’t touch, go down a bit, and repeat? A few iterations later, you will be there. Even a single point in 3d space can be found (loop will have to change to scan xy plan and lower in z) am i missing something? Or may be you are making this for non-conductive materials as well?
Sure. Now think about that with a radiused or chamfered corner. What you want to reference is the intersection of the two sides, not wherever the remaining material happens to be highest.
I will second the question by Dejan Sarcevic, he asked "Why not a vee block?" It seems to me that design would be easier than the 3/4 round, and your accuracy would be easier to secure if you finished off by hardening and grinding.
You need way more additional math to find the true corner point when the angle is other than 45 degrees. With the 3/4 round tool you find the rolls radius, punch it in the DRO and you are done.
Any particular reason you went with round instead of square block with a V cut into it? You might have been able to incorporate a magnet on the top flat of the block.
Moen I Its round for obvious reason ;) If you have a workpiece thats not exactly at 45deg it would be useless. Magnets in stuff like that can drive you mad, trying to keep the chips away from mating surfaces.
Once you start using such a magnet tool, you realise you spend too much time cleaning it and trying to pray there is no crap under it when you do your measurement.
the best way to do this, is edge find the adjacent edge, in the video, the edge on the right. measure the thickness of the part, move over that distance and half your .200 edge finder (typical) and Bam Bob's your aunt. no extra tooling needed
You forgot to mention using trig to account for the thickness of the part being at an angle to the horizontal, and also your idea relies on having no chamfer on the right hand edge (or a very accurate, known chamfer)
gentleman, just one question, what if the object is not perfectly square? say the corner you have to work with is 92 degrees, the packman will have a small gap sitting on the edge what if we do a say 120 degree cut and no relief hole on the packman, let it see saw on that top corner, the idea is just like the old trick use on the lathe. chuck a dead center and tailstock another, put a metal ruler in between. do you think it will work as well?
It would be essential to remove any burrs whatsoever on the male corner of the workpiece (ideally the faces would need to be carefully stoned in alternation and then the corner stropped with leather, or the palm of the hand if you have tough "manual labour" skin!)* , and it would be hard to get a sharp internal corner on the button ... *Then as soon as it's no longer required, use a stone to chamfer the corner which will otherwise be dangerously sharp. So I guess whether it "works" depends on the accuracy you require. But I reckon the theoretical basis of your idea is sound.
Thinking more about the "non 90deg case" I would personally finish my centering scope (Ha!) which is currently a drawing and some parts... and use that.
Gene Elliott I thought about this too, and I think it will work for telling you the axis in which the edge lies, but not where the edge is as if the angle is acute The edge would be higher than predicted by the tool and if obtuse it would be lower.
Gene Elliott If it is below 90 degrees, mill off two grooves in both sides of the gap of the tool and use gauge pins on both sides - that'll fill the missing degrees. If it is over 90 degrees, use one gauge pin to fill in exactly at the "theoretical corner."
Gene Elliott Then you would have a problem ;) Seriously: Then you would need another design, maybe something with rollers or gauge pins at the contacting surfaces as Erling Weiseth describes it.
this is a great video and that's definitely a tool I'm going to make but I got to say, kind of losing me at putting my finger near the spinning tool....
Needs way more additional math if the angle is anything but 45 degrees. With Stefans tool you edge find the rolls radius, punmch it in the DRO and you are done.
Once you see things like this, you scratch your head and wonder why you don't have one in your box. Very nice. Thumbs up.
That was a stroke of genius. I will file that away in the old brain for the time I need it. Thanks for the video.
cerberus I would love to say that it was my idea, but I am sure that I saw it once in a manual for a jig borer or somewhere else.. but thank you :)
This is a great little gadget. In large part to RUclips mentors like you I found my way into a tool and die maker program at technical college. As part of my course work I have to put in a certain amount of machine time every week. Part of that time is to work on the projects provided by the teachers but the rest of it we have to come up with ourselves and I've spent the last month working on all these awesome shop aids you've shown off and they are the handiest things to have. Thanks a bunch for not only inspiring me but also teaching me a lot that my actual teachers haven't.
Perfect. Simple and it works. You never fail to amaze me Stefan.
BasementShopGuy Thank you :)
Neat solution! I have to admit that i didnt see a problem picking up the edge without the gadged until you explained that this will work on any angle. If the workpiece is at 90- deg. you can do it the normal method picking the edge on both sides and divide.
Thanks for the explenation! If I ever get a mill this will for sure come in handy.
Cheers,
Norman
With a little trig you can do it for any known set of right triangles. You just drop down a known amount from the top of the part and use the base of the opposing triangles to figure out the % of the total amount to deduct for each side.
Very interesting. I enjoy the clarity with which you explain what you are doing and the reasoning behind it. Thanks for taking time to share your knowledge.
The nice thing about that is that you will get your true center of the corner regardless of what angle you clamp the part in the vise at. I might have to make one of those. simple and clever.
subbed, because you add so much detail in all the videos ive watched so far
Once again, outstanding video Sir. I plan to make some for my guys at work. Super simple. Thanks!!
Bless your cotton socks!! Stefan, You have just saved my bacon with this idea. Nicely done.
Nicely done, Stefan! I am enjoying all of your videos as you always bring great tools and projects to share with us. Keep up the good work!
A really useful shop made tool I like your videos and will continue to watch ,thank you
I love the shop made gadgets that you come up with. Very Clever!! I will be adding one to my tool box. Thanks !!
I've seen your video in the past so I ended up making one for my self
.500 inch diameter and it works very well . Thx very much for sharing.
Bravo...... Hats off to you dear stefan. You are an amazing inspiration. 👏👏
I litterally learn from you every day
Thanks for posting. I was looking for something to model in Fusion360. I'm trying to learn it. I did a imperial version a bit bigger. Looks like a handy tool for the toolbox.
As always your workmanship was excellent.
This is something a was looking for some time and i found the solution here accidentally. Thank you!
Nice new little tool, I think i need one. Thanks for sharing. Randy
I like it!
Very smart idea that's quite obvious if you think about it!
Excellent Stefan, very cool....! Thanks.
Nice simple solution, great idea!
Hi, thank you for sharing your video and professional idea. Such a cool tool, I'll have a go at making one in the near future.
Great tip Stefan I will be making one of those very soon thanks.
Dave
David Cashin It makes a nice one to two hour project :)
Thanks for the video! I am a very inexperienced chip maker, not even allowed to use the term machinist yet :) What I don't understand is why anyone would click "thumbs down" after watching this? Excellent production, outstanding machine shop, and top notch work practices. I just don't get it? jealousy maybe....anyway, have a good day, and I am off to watch another one....
G.
Great tool.
This solves a problem for me.
Thanks
John
Nice video as always, thanks for sharing.
Excellent tool.
Made & used one today !! Thanx Stefan !!
You are a genius for sure. Where do you come up with all these neat ideas?
And in addition it is a peasure to watch your presentations. Thank you!
I spend much time on sketching :)
Great Stefan,
Have to repeat what the previous person said. I will file it away also, but now I know the trick.
Thank you
Simple but very effective, I like it.
That will work for a 90 Degree edge only. All other angles will either need a special one of these tools or different tactics and some trig calculations. Of course optical can as you said Stefan, get you close. Also the shallower the angle with a tool like this the more likely an error can creep in because it becomes more difficult to feel the tool seat securely over the apex.
Just a couple of long after thoughts, Cheers from John, Australia.
For workpiece angles other than 90 deg. An accurate "x" shaped cradle could be used which has a stiff pivot in the centre. This could be fitted onto the peak and a pin laid in the cradle, then the centre of the pin could be found. This will work on any workpiece angle but the peak must be set with the angles equal either side. I'm sure with a bit of trig it could be used with the peak leaning to one side.
Great little gadget Stefan, sehr gute arbeit. If I may make a suggestion: Instead of keeping the device in place with your finger it might be possible to incorporate a small neodymium magnet in the design. Or just place it somewhere on the workpiece. I would recon that the residual magnetism between the workpiece and the gadget would keep it in place for the touchoff.
Hi Stephan
New subscriber - enjoy all your videos. Really enjoy your 'How I made this". Thanks for sharing.
Bick1027 DE Thanks for subscribing! :)
Ingenious! I would have loved to show this to my old mentor.
Great idea, not sure if I need one but will make one all the same.
If you don't have a disc mic, as most people wont, if you sit the blank in a square, while it is being machined, you could use a depth mic between the cut surfaces and the square;s arms. At least that is how I shall do it, even though I do have a disc mic.
Chris Stephens Good Idea, That didnt come to my mind, thank you for that!
Stefan Gotteswinter Or, put a gauge block in the cut out and measure the OD with a mic. I did it this way so I could mix up Imp and Metric measurements when finishing a metric "pacman" on an Imp surface grinder (used a metric block and imp mic). I find normal mics are less prone to operator stupidity than depth mics. :>( OK, I know I could have set up a Metric DTI on the grinder but it was too much bother.
This is exactly how I did it. The gauge blocks were a little tricky to manage. I wrung the stack together so they overhung the center point. They were hard to hold in place, and even harder to get video with my hands in the way. ruclips.net/video/lWVfD8Q4cv4/видео.html
This is pretty cool.
Ooh sweet, a new video. Just in time for dinnertime viewing.
Great tool, thanks for sharing !
Very good video. Well done.
Hi Stefan, great tip, even works for any angle or just about any chamfer. Noticed, first you say Weiss since.... lol
Pierre
pierre beaudry Weis! I said Weis! Or maybe Waise? I dont see it that eager ;)
I was sure you'd slip and say weiss, I tried, wish me better luck next time... lol
Great video! Now I have another project to make.
If you have a large part that has a chamfer too large for this tool, then you can use a vee block with a ground rod clamped in the opposite vee. Again it will be 1/2 the edge finder diameter + 1/2 of whatever size the ground rod diameter is. Stefans tool and the vee block will only work if the the corner that you wish to find is at 90 degrees. If you are unsure of the accuracy of the vee block, it will pay you to check that the vee's are in the center of the block. Do not panic if they are not, make a note of the out of center error and take this into account when edge finding. This will still be more accurate than doing it by eye, especially if the edge has a chamfer. Hope this helps.
The vee block will only work (without additional math) if the workpiece is at 45 degrees. Any other angle will introduce an offset.
if you have a work piece angle significantly larger or smaller than 90° then you got problems.
What I suggest is that you make another one out of two pieces that rotate to fit larger or smaller angles.
Done right, the tool's radius wouldn't change due to rotation.
What do you think, Stefan?
Is that something that could work?
Thanks! :)
I think if I was going to use it with one particular edge finder, I'd make it so that I ended up taking off either 10mm or 20mm in total. It simplifies things for my simple mind. Although as far as I can see it will only work with a 90 degree angled workpiece. Anyway, its been added to my homemade workshop tool list.
Great gadget to have in the box! Finding the theoretical intersection of two planes can be tricky, especially when the work is at odd angles. A ball wiggler and a little trig was always my solution, but this tool makes it faster and much simpler. I would, however, when using an edge finder, hit both sides and divide by 2. This helps correct for edge finder error. Thanks Stefan!
Would it be possible to drill two small holes on the flat faces and glue in small Neo. magnets? Counter bored of course? Great idea you have there. Nice.
Very interesting tool. Thanks for sharing...
Hi Stefan, das ging ja fix mit dem Video :-)
Wieder mal schön dokumentiert
Burkhardt Schramm Danke :)
Very nice work!
"Facepalm!"Now why didn't I think of that. Think of it as an inside out toolmakers chair
Stefan, schönes Video! Gut erklärt, auch für "Nichtmetaller" :-) Freu mich auf weitere Videos
For extra credit, make a 3D ball version for measuring corners after using a compound sine plate.
Very nice gadget -- or is it a centering jig? Unfortunately for me, I don't think that anyone makes a center finder for the Proxxon MF70 I have. The point method works for me, but one must remember it is subject to parallax and sight square with the Y axis. Even at loupe distance.
Stefan, I remember using a similar tool on Jig Bores a long time ago and it was magnetic. Of course that does not address non-ferrous materials nor the satisfaction of making your own tool. keep up the great videos!
Heather Butler I am a bit picky on magnetic tools - They tend to collect the one 5/100mm piece of swarf that ruins your day :D
Awesome, will make one for my tool box.
Smal and simple gadget for a great result. I will copy. So Stefan, I was thinking: I've read your answer to magnet question but why don't make smalls pockets on the contact surfaces to accomodate micro magnets? I have some disk magnets 3 mm diameters that are really very strong. Obviously the magnet must be plane with the surface.
Cosimo Marotta I am a bit picky on the magnets - Even if they are dropped in pockets they still tend to collect the smallest chip every time you absolutely dont need them ;)
Nice idea and presentation. This is good for parts with 90-degree corner. Could be better if we can conceive to one that can adapt to angles other than 90-degrees.
You could magnetize it, but I don't like my tools magnetic. Great info.
Stefan, i watched this video with great interest, but was this just a practical "exercise", or you made this jig because you need it to solve a particular difficulty in a project you have?
I mean, where's the purpose?
José Dias Pinto I dont need it right now, but I was in the mood for a little project that might be interesting to watch and be a neat solution for a problem that occures from time to time.
But when the day comes that I need it I will pad myself on the shoulder ;)
Wonder if you could make it handsfree by embedding some magnets in tiny pockets, or if its just too small to get enough force in there?
Seems like there's another edge finder from the Moore books in the background!
I’m about to precision Grind** one of these now
Awesome!
BTW - what if you drilled the out of dimension side for a rod to use as a handle?
That would be a good idea - Never tought of it :D
Clever idea, and as always, the execution is exquisite - but I think if you find yourself reaching for this often, someone should have a talk with your designers/engineers about using work holes. Dimensioning to a theoretical sharp point is fine as a reference, but really shouldn't be relied on for anything that matters. And yes, if you just ground a corner dead square and sharp, it's probably pretty close to actually being a sharp point - right up until it gets deburred or used, and then it isn't anymore. Then it's a theoretical sharp point, and someone would need a clever tool like yours to repeat your setup/measurements. Work holes (when you can get away with them) don't have that problem.
This angle hole problem creeps up in mould production work constantly, usually the holes are at an angle of 15-20 degrees. Or a hole. The problem is, how do you dimension the hole location and also find it easily when machining, when it is the only hole? Or when the workpiece has maybe only one 90 degree corner in it? The easy answer is to dimension from known edges, be it theoretical point or not, and have a tool just like this to easily find it on the machine.
Nice tool!
I'm copying that :)
BTW Thanks for the entertainment with all vids.
/Hasse
traderahasse I think I copied that somewhere too - I am not sure but I think I have seen something like that commercialy availible.
Thanks for commenting :)
Epoxy or super glue a small magnet below flush in one of the faces. It will negate the need to manually hold it in place on magnetic workpieces. :)
And a collector for fine particles of swarf ;)
I try to keep the use of magnets to a minimum because they are in day-to-day use a bit of a pain in keeping clean.
Wouldnt a needle that would complete an electric circuit and beep find that corner easily? Start from a little above, go left and right, if it doesn’t touch, go down a bit, and repeat? A few iterations later, you will be there. Even a single point in 3d space can be found (loop will have to change to scan xy plan and lower in z) am i missing something? Or may be you are making this for non-conductive materials as well?
Sure. Now think about that with a radiused or chamfered corner. What you want to reference is the intersection of the two sides, not wherever the remaining material happens to be highest.
i just found this clip so my question is on the late side but have you thought of a neo magnet to help holding it instead of the finger method?
Great gadget that bud
I will second the question by Dejan Sarcevic, he asked "Why not a vee block?"
It seems to me that design would be easier than the 3/4 round, and your accuracy would be easier to secure if you finished off by hardening and grinding.
A V-Block would only work with the workpiece at 45° :)
find the bout end of the vee block and divide the mesurment and you get the center
find the bout end of the vee block and divide the mesurment and you get the center
You need way more additional math to find the true corner point when the angle is other than 45 degrees. With the 3/4 round tool you find the rolls radius, punch it in the DRO and you are done.
very good ....
Any particular reason you went with round instead of square block with a V cut into it? You might have been able to incorporate a magnet on the top flat of the block.
Moen I Its round for obvious reason ;) If you have a workpiece thats not exactly at 45deg it would be useless.
Magnets in stuff like that can drive you mad, trying to keep the chips away from mating surfaces.
an improvement would be to add strong neo magnet in each flat, that way you wont have to hold it!
Once you start using such a magnet tool, you realise you spend too much time cleaning it and trying to pray there is no crap under it when you do your measurement.
the best way to do this, is edge find the adjacent edge, in the video, the edge on the right. measure the thickness of the part, move over that distance and half your .200 edge finder (typical) and Bam Bob's your aunt. no extra tooling needed
You forgot to mention using trig to account for the thickness of the part being at an angle to the horizontal, and also your idea relies on having no chamfer on the right hand edge (or a very accurate, known chamfer)
Ooooo Black Magic! Cool
gentleman, just one question, what if the object is not perfectly square? say the corner you have to work with is 92 degrees, the packman will have a small gap sitting on the edge
what if we do a say 120 degree cut and no relief hole on the packman, let it see saw on that top corner, the idea is just like the old trick use on the lathe. chuck a dead center and tailstock another, put a metal ruler in between. do you think it will work as well?
It would be essential to remove any burrs whatsoever on the male corner of the workpiece (ideally the faces would need to be carefully stoned in alternation and then the corner stropped with leather, or the palm of the hand if you have tough "manual labour" skin!)* , and it would be hard to get a sharp internal corner on the button ...
*Then as soon as it's no longer required, use a stone to chamfer the corner which will otherwise be dangerously sharp.
So I guess whether it "works" depends on the accuracy you require. But I reckon the theoretical basis of your idea is sound.
Thinking more about the "non 90deg case" I would personally finish my centering scope (Ha!) which is currently a drawing and some parts... and use that.
I was about to suggest a magnet until I read your reply to a earlier post
:)
How would this work if your clamped item does not have a 90 deg angle at the intersection?
Gene Elliott I thought about this too, and I think it will work for telling you the axis in which the edge lies, but not where the edge is as if the angle is acute The edge would be higher than predicted by the tool and if obtuse it would be lower.
Gene Elliott If it is below 90 degrees, mill off two grooves in both sides of the gap of the tool and use gauge pins on both sides - that'll fill the missing degrees. If it is over 90 degrees, use one gauge pin to fill in exactly at the "theoretical corner."
Gene Elliott Then you would have a problem ;)
Seriously: Then you would need another design, maybe something with rollers or gauge pins at the contacting surfaces as Erling Weiseth describes it.
How does it stay seated without lifting at all while
you’re using the edge finder?
Oh yeah, I forgot he uses his finger.
this is a great video and that's definitely a tool I'm going to make but I got to say, kind of losing me at putting my finger near the spinning tool....
what happens when its less then 90? Actually anything but 90 I should say.
Magnatize that sucker and you get your pinkies outta there. Just a thought why not make a 45 deg edge finder. lol
why dont use v blok?
Needs way more additional math if the angle is anything but 45 degrees. With Stefans tool you edge find the rolls radius, punmch it in the DRO and you are done.
3:41 anyone see the 7th chevron from Stargate?
Magnetize it.
Stefen, WE call that a thingamaJIG, quite an interesting solution.
Problem solved, but finding it in my toolbox would be like a needle in a haystack.
way too dangerous, not not and not practical