Thanks for the heads up regarding the sale prices. I treated myself to a GH-18. Specifications say that it's a single phase motor, however mine arrived with a three phase motor and a VFD mounted in a box behind the column, so very easy to modify for variable speed as well as the gear selections.
Ive got a similar mill. Super happy with it. Its a decent table size and plenty big for most jobs. Im glad I didnt go smaller but also glad I didnt go bigger. The Wm18B is a really nice size.
Hi Joe, Thanks for the shout . I've been pushing mine hard for around 3 years now , I was checking the tram every few weeks at the beginning. then months / had a few crashes and it has never moved. I have done some ridiculously large parts and extremely small on it. never let me down yet . I have done loads of mods on mine and I am still seeing others to do . Enjoy the journey , Cheers Ade.
Hi Ade glad to hear from you and good to hear your machine is still going strong. Fingers crossed I have the same luck and can tell someone else in 3 years time the good story’s about my machine. Maybe one day soon we could do a joint Warco owners machining project here on RUclips 😁
Well done it looks like you've got yourself a good machine there, I have a Super Major which Ive had for 16 years and Ive just rebuilt the gearbox after one of the shafts broke in two so I would be interested to see what happened to your old mill. When tramming or checking the nod make sure the head is clamped to the column if it isn't the the head will lean forwards giving false readings I use a brake disc for checking mine it is worth buying a new brake disc just for this and reduces any errors that might occur when lifting the clock stylus onto blocks or parallels. One of the big failings of all of these Chinese mills is the rigidity of the base castings so don't bolt it down tightly to the top of your bench and if necessary shim under any corner that has a gap before bolting it down, finger tight is enough. Id also suggest you invest in a set of finger collets these reduce the overhang from the spindle greatly improving rigidity and increasing working height. Keep up the good work and enjoy your new machine.
Unless I missed it, you didn't check that the table was good in X & Y axes, other than that a fair review of a reasonably priced machine. If you're going to go chasing perfect tram and nod Stefan Gotteswinter has a very good video where he uses softened copper wire as a crushable spacer to hold up the back in the correct position and then injects turcite to cement it into that position. Best of luck with the newest toy in the shed.
No you didn’t miss it I didn’t do that on Camera. That is a great method for setting the head nod if I want to chase those 000s I’ll probably consider that method.
I have that mill 🙂 I made a smaller drive pulley to increase the speed a little, it now does 3300rpm. It is a superb machine. I’ve fitted a dro and eBay powered x axis.
To measure the runout of the spindle it is best to take several measurements. Turn the collet 90°, use a cutter / collet with a different diameter. Sometimes you have a lot of spindle runout, but it is compensated by the runout of the collet/cutter. By turning this 90° the real runout will become visible, better or worse.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts on this mill. I’ve just ordered the very same machine with the fitted dro. Should be here on Monday, can’t wait to put it to work. Happy machining, and keep up the great videos.
Glad this video helped and great to hear you have added a new machine to your shop. Would like to know your thought’s on how the install goes if you have to take it apart.
Nice mill. I recently bought a Warco VMC, it's a bit agricultural but I'm quite happy with it. I was amazed when I measured the spindle runout, 0.001mm 😯
Your Quite welcome. I cannot say how good it will be in the long run but from my initial impressions and comments below seems a good home hobbyist machine.
hmmm I think warco could put some screw connectors in that would make taking it apart to move it easier without affecting the price too much, because like you many people would have difficulty getting it into a workshop thanks for sharing your thoughts and set up.
Hey Joe. Thanks for this review. That Warco mill you have gone for is on my list as my round column mill is starting to brass me off. The dove tailed column must be so good and did I spy a tilting head on that? so that must be helpful. I have been sorely tempted in getting one myself. and you mentioned having to break it down and the wiring sounds daunting, I have to get it into bite size chunks as like you I dont have the lifting capability and it has to go through the house. do some more vids of this if you get a chance. Cheers and keep making swarf!
Very good video Joe, thankyou. I think you and Ade have picked very well. Good Prices at Warco, tested and configured. I'll be joining you in the next few months, hope I have the luck you have had. You got a good un!!!!. If you get the time, it would be good to see you fit a 2 axis DRO. Is a 3 axis DRO out of the question ?. As that little LCD thing I would assume would not be ideal for reading.
Thank you, glad you enjoyed the video. Hopefully when you come to buy yours there is still the good saving that there currently is. So I’m going to be using the DRO that I removed from my old mill. For that reason it will be a 2 axis and also as I have done a video on DRO installation I probably won’t be doing one with this mill as this mill is easier to do.
Thank you for your video and effort put into it Joe. Could you elaborate a little about the table you use to mount such a 265 kg machine please? Regards, Ruud
Hi Ruud glad you enjoyed the video. So the table is actually a table I fabricated. It is mainly made from 2” steel box section with a 5mm steel top. When I made it I ensure the weight would be on top of the uprights so no weight was directly held up by the welds.
Yes I imagine the bare machine comes from the same factory in China that distributes to companies like Warco (UK) and Precision Matthew’s (US). Good to know a model number for reference if I ever need parts or fault finding.
Hi Joe, congrats on the new milling machine wishing you many happy projects! Off topic: I noticed an interesting item in the background of the last shot, and I'm curious to know what it is and how it works. I'm referring to the electrical enclosure on the left of the mill fitted with a keyswitch and cables coming out of it. Do you mind elaborating on it?
Thank you, so that electrical enclosure is actually one of my older projects on the channel for a bolt on power feed. Originally I had it hooked up to a stepper motor which powered the Warco mini lathe. I then moved it over to the Warco mill to use as a power feed for the table. All videos are on the channel 👍
I have an earlier version of this that I've converted to CNC - looks like they've updated the control unit - and what's that big box on the back? On mine the control unit was just a small box mounted on an arm on the side of the head.
Great to hear you have done that as that was my end intention with this. The cabinet on the back contains controller for the DC motor some fuses and breaker etc
Hi Joe, I know you've 'graduated' but do you still rate the Warco WM 180 lathe? Is it still decently usable without all the upgrades you did? Also interested to know, why didn't the experience with the previous mill put you off another Warco mill? Do you think it came rusted like that from the factory or was it not looked after?
Hi Stan so In regards to the WM 180. If I never had a lathe and was limited on space then I would get this lathe again. Only thing I really wish it came with is a brushless motor but I think the newer ones now do. The reason I wasn’t put off with Warco was this mill for a Chinese product was fairly old and had several owners so you never know how it was treated. For the price/quality / aftercare I think if you are in the UK they seem a good company to buy off.
@@MachiningwithJoe Thanks Joe for the info. You've got a new subscriber and I just might be pulling the trigger on a WM180 in the near future. Cheers. 👍
Do the gib strip locks on the X axis still catch and bend themselves if you are not careful when taking the Y axis back, its a crap design that allows them to foul another part of the machine as my older model does. Better that the controller is remoteley mounted so reducing vibration that can destroy the pcb's.
@@MachiningwithJoe I have had one for over 15 years, mine has no oil points and the bed is made up rather than being solid. I need to get one of my gib tightener out as it was bent so many times it snapped. Motors are a failure point the old ones had a cowl over the motor that prevented proper ventilation, that went in the bin after the first motor burnt out and the Chinese made boards are crap and hard to repair as they scuff off the makers id from the semiconductors, I have never been able to take the backlash out of the x axis as the adjuster never seems to adjust. But I still have it, and it would be a much better machine with dro,s, oh and get yourself a set of carbon brushes they gobble them, warco used to do a motor brush end replacement, service is good I recognise the voice of the parts guy every time I ring them.
That column looks hella skinny... The rest of the machine looks nice, but that Z pillar is a disgusting manifestation of corporate greed and FEA... The machine like this is as strong as it`s weakest component, and if that component is one of the main axes, even moreso the one that carries the head and is affected by all and any work done by the head, well, we have a problem on our hands... I`m hardly pressed to see how that pillar is any more rigid than the round column of my Emco FB2, which is from what i can see - a smaller mill than this... That single component could and should have had twice the material that it actually has in it to make a really fucking good milling machine, and that could be seen as The best benchtop machine, but this, nah, just decent... Also, what the hell man, spindle bearings should not even register on that clock... 0.01mm is not fine for a spindle of any sort of a precision machine... 1 micron is crude if we are talking precision, but for a hobby shop, 1 micron spindle runout(actual spindle, not a tool in the holder in the spindle) is very good, 2 microns is adequate, but anything more than that and you might as well be using a drill with an endmilil chucked with a jacobs chuck... 0.01mm runout is literally detrimental to cutters, and quite a lot if we are talking smaller cutters(like the ones a hobby shop likely uses) small endmills, drills, reamers, what have you, none of them like runout... Shit, my roller-blades with abec9 bearings have a lesser runout than that... Speaking of, here you go with a shameless plug - if you need some fucking remarkable bearings for small spindles(custom toolpost grinder or similar) you can get Bones Swiss bearings for skates, you will know which ones to buy, they don`t come cheap, but they are Swiss made and Swiss grade... You can get Bones Swiss Reds and others that come from China, but if you want savagely good small bearings - the Swiss made Bones Swiss bearings are the way to go... At least for high grade custom projects that don`t warrant custom ang. cont. bearings...
@@65cj55 nah, i`ve got the Schaublin 22 mill, if i need ultra-rigidity I can just rely on her majesty, i doubt that there is a single machinist that i would be jealous of in regards to the machine array that they have - i love machines, and as long as the operator treats them with devoted care, i have nothing but appreciation for them being the one that owns whatever beautiful machinery they do and take care of... As a sort of a millwright, i know that i can not take care of every single machine in the world, so i never begrudge loving operators for having machines that I don`t... Best regards! Steuss
@@camillosteuss What's ''a sort of a millwright''.....either you are a millright or not..your original comment sounded like jealousy, very bitter, even swear words...weird.
@@65cj55 ``sort of a`` means that i`m a mechatronics tech with savage passion and maniacal interest in machines and machine repair/mods, it also means that i currently don`t have a functional shop, more of a machine storage room which offers minimal machining or restoration capacity due to lack of space... Now, very bitter, sure, that i don`t reject, but i never hold envy towards any good operator, i only have contempt for machine abusers, but other than that, i generally speak my mind, curses included - whether i speak ill or well of something or someone...
Yeah I don’t think it’s proper scraping to get a perfectly contacting surface. After all the angle sections are the bit that contact. I’m hoping it is some effort to allow oil retention.
Stop putting your hand all over in front of screen and trying to talk with your hands. Your ruining your content. Other wise I like the content and the way you explain things. That's done very well
Trust me I would love a Bridgeport but I am faced with installation problems due to size and location of my workshop. Also space the great thing about these bench top mills for a small shop like mine you keep all the storage space below.
@@MachiningwithJoe That’s understandable, but then you should say so. In the video it sounds like you’re gaslighting yourself into buying this Warco machine. Anyways, good luck with repairing the old milling machine 👍
I have my 12 x 36 lathe in a 10x10 shed with a concrete floor Cant fit a full size knee mill, floor cant rake the weight ither. they make taiwan ones at busy bee but they are $7000 These small machines look like they will do keyways & flats no problem Only issue for me is cross travel. Bigest iv seen is 8" but again its $6000 The small one for $2000 gets 7" cross Thats like 6" bolt patters max Someone needs to make a small one with that will cross 12" to match with my 12" swing lathe so i can do 11.5" bolt patterns
@@65cj55yep, that's absolutely correct. Nobody ever bought a Tom Senior mill or a Centec 2b mill or any of the Taiwanese RF type mill/drills that was usable. All of the people that bought these bought just lumps of scrap and all the good work they did on them was faked. Stupid, absolutist comment is stupid.
That only works if you can find a nice example, when I was looking for another lathe I couldn't find anything worth using. I ended up with a Warco, it's been great for the last 5 years, and more accurate than my old Harrison 11" lathe.
Thanks for the heads up regarding the sale prices.
I treated myself to a GH-18. Specifications say that it's a single phase motor, however mine arrived with a three phase motor and a VFD mounted in a box behind the column, so very easy to modify for variable speed as well as the gear selections.
Ive got a similar mill. Super happy with it. Its a decent table size and plenty big for most jobs. Im glad I didnt go smaller but also glad I didnt go bigger. The Wm18B is a really nice size.
Glad you are happy with your Mill, first impressions on mine sound similar to you it is a good size so looking forward to what I can make on it.
Hi Joe, Thanks for the shout . I've been pushing mine hard for around 3 years now , I was checking the tram every few weeks at the beginning. then months / had a few crashes and it has never moved. I have done some ridiculously large parts and extremely small on it. never let me down yet . I have done loads of mods on mine and I am still seeing others to do . Enjoy the journey , Cheers Ade.
Hi Ade glad to hear from you and good to hear your machine is still going strong. Fingers crossed I have the same luck and can tell someone else in 3 years time the good story’s about my machine. Maybe one day soon we could do a joint Warco owners machining project here on RUclips 😁
Well done it looks like you've got yourself a good machine there, I have a Super Major which Ive had for 16 years and Ive just rebuilt the gearbox after one of the shafts broke in two so I would be interested to see what happened to your old mill.
When tramming or checking the nod make sure the head is clamped to the column if it isn't the the head will lean forwards giving false readings I use a brake disc for checking mine it is worth buying a new brake disc just for this and reduces any errors that might occur when lifting the clock stylus onto blocks or parallels.
One of the big failings of all of these Chinese mills is the rigidity of the base castings so don't bolt it down tightly to the top of your bench and if necessary shim under any corner that has a gap before bolting it down, finger tight is enough.
Id also suggest you invest in a set of finger collets these reduce the overhang from the spindle greatly improving rigidity and increasing working height.
Keep up the good work and enjoy your new machine.
Unless I missed it, you didn't check that the table was good in X & Y axes, other than that a fair review of a reasonably priced machine.
If you're going to go chasing perfect tram and nod Stefan Gotteswinter has a very good video where he uses softened copper wire as a crushable spacer to hold up the back in the correct position and then injects turcite to cement it into that position.
Best of luck with the newest toy in the shed.
No you didn’t miss it I didn’t do that on Camera. That is a great method for setting the head nod if I want to chase those 000s I’ll probably consider that method.
@@MachiningwithJoe 👍
I have that mill 🙂 I made a smaller drive pulley to increase the speed a little, it now does 3300rpm. It is a superb machine. I’ve fitted a dro and eBay powered x axis.
That’s a great idea. Just out of curiosity what sort of depths of cut can you get in steel and aluminium?
To measure the runout of the spindle it is best to take several measurements. Turn the collet 90°, use a cutter / collet with a different diameter. Sometimes you have a lot of spindle runout, but it is compensated by the runout of the collet/cutter. By turning this 90° the real runout will become visible, better or worse.
Great but of advise I actually decided to measure the runout again directly in the spindle and turns out I’ve only got 5 microns of run out.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts on this mill. I’ve just ordered the very same machine with the fitted dro. Should be here on Monday, can’t wait to put it to work. Happy machining, and keep up the great videos.
Glad this video helped and great to hear you have added a new machine to your shop. Would like to know your thought’s on how the install goes if you have to take it apart.
Good choice Joe. I picked up the 16b earlier this year and have been really pleased with it.
Thanks Dano glad to hear you have been pleased with yours. As a very similar machine I hope mine is just as good.
Nice mill. I recently bought a Warco VMC, it's a bit agricultural but I'm quite happy with it. I was amazed when I measured the spindle runout, 0.001mm 😯
Glad you are happy with it. I think I’m going to go back and measure the run out on my spindle again as I would love to see that minimal run out
Nice machine Joe. Enjoy.
Thanks Andrew and good to hear from you in the comments
Thank you sir for this video. This is exactly the milling machine I’m looking for. This warco seems to be the one for me.
Your Quite welcome. I cannot say how good it will be in the long run but from my initial impressions and comments below seems a good home hobbyist machine.
@@MachiningwithJoe Thanks I get that. I have seen a few of them around and everyone seems to be happy with these milling machines.
Your presentations are always good.
Thank you
hmmm I think warco could put some screw connectors in that would make taking it apart to move it easier without affecting the price too much, because like you many people would have difficulty getting it into a workshop
thanks for sharing your thoughts and set up.
Yeah that would be ideal perfect for situations like this. To be honest I might do that in a later video for incase I ever have to move it.
Hey Joe. Thanks for this review. That Warco mill you have gone for is on my list as my round column mill is starting to brass me off.
The dove tailed column must be so good and did I spy a tilting head on that? so that must be helpful.
I have been sorely tempted in getting one myself. and you mentioned having to break it down and the wiring sounds daunting, I have to get it into bite size chunks as like you I dont have the lifting capability and it has to go through the house.
do some more vids of this if you get a chance.
Cheers and keep making swarf!
Very good video Joe, thankyou. I think you and Ade have picked very well. Good Prices at Warco, tested and configured.
I'll be joining you in the next few months, hope I have the luck you have had. You got a good un!!!!.
If you get the time, it would be good to see you fit a 2 axis DRO. Is a 3 axis DRO out of the question ?. As that little LCD thing I would assume
would not be ideal for reading.
Thank you, glad you enjoyed the video. Hopefully when you come to buy yours there is still the good saving that there currently is. So I’m going to be using the DRO that I removed from my old mill. For that reason it will be a 2 axis and also as I have done a video on DRO installation I probably won’t be doing one with this mill as this mill is easier to do.
Stefan Gotteswinter did a Video on tramming a chinese Mill with Epoxy Glue.
I tried the method.
Works really fine
Yeah someone else in the comments mentioned him too. I will be sure to check it out as I start to chase those Zeros.
Thank you for your video and effort put into it Joe. Could you elaborate a little about the table you use to mount such a 265 kg machine please?
Regards, Ruud
Hi Ruud glad you enjoyed the video. So the table is actually a table I fabricated. It is mainly made from 2” steel box section with a 5mm steel top. When I made it I ensure the weight would be on top of the uprights so no weight was directly held up by the welds.
@@MachiningwithJoe Thank you, very useful!
Good review of the machine. Hope you get a lot of use out of it.
Thanks Gerald hope you enjoyed.
it looks like Warco is like Precision Matthews here. That looks like a PM 727.
Yes I imagine the bare machine comes from the same factory in China that distributes to companies like Warco (UK) and Precision Matthew’s (US). Good to know a model number for reference if I ever need parts or fault finding.
My bridgeport also has a 1.5kw/2hp motor.
I think you'll be pleasantly surprised how much you can cut.
I hope so Barry. 🤞🏻
Looks good Joe!
Thanks dude.
Hi Joe, congrats on the new milling machine wishing you many happy projects!
Off topic: I noticed an interesting item in the background of the last shot, and I'm curious to know what it is and how it works. I'm referring to the electrical enclosure on the left of the mill fitted with a keyswitch and cables coming out of it. Do you mind elaborating on it?
Thank you, so that electrical enclosure is actually one of my older projects on the channel for a bolt on power feed. Originally I had it hooked up to a stepper motor which powered the Warco mini lathe. I then moved it over to the Warco mill to use as a power feed for the table. All videos are on the channel 👍
I have an earlier version of this that I've converted to CNC - looks like they've updated the control unit - and what's that big box on the back? On mine the control unit was just a small box mounted on an arm on the side of the head.
Great to hear you have done that as that was my end intention with this. The cabinet on the back contains controller for the DC motor some fuses and breaker etc
Nice machine !
Thanks 👍
Hi Joe,
I know you've 'graduated' but do you still rate the Warco WM 180 lathe? Is it still decently usable without all the upgrades you did?
Also interested to know, why didn't the experience with the previous mill put you off another Warco mill? Do you think it came rusted like that from the factory or was it not looked after?
Hi Stan so In regards to the WM 180. If I never had a lathe and was limited on space then I would get this lathe again. Only thing I really wish it came with is a brushless motor but I think the newer ones now do. The reason I wasn’t put off with Warco was this mill for a Chinese product was fairly old and had several owners so you never know how it was treated. For the price/quality / aftercare I think if you are in the UK they seem a good company to buy off.
@@MachiningwithJoe Thanks Joe for the info. You've got a new subscriber and I just might be pulling the trigger on a WM180 in the near future. Cheers. 👍
You’re more than welcome Stan and glad to have you as a subscriber hopefully hear from you on some future video comments.
Get some RB Spindle Collets so you don't have to use the ER Collets and adapter, a lot less stick out and better performance.
Great idea think once my bank has got over the shock of this purchase I’ll have to keep an eye out for some good quality ones.
@@MachiningwithJoe I got mine from Alibaba, i had to buy a set, but they were afforable and have been good.
Bubba says “you tram that Head boya.” 😂😂😂
Haha maybe I’ll go back and chase those zeros.
Do the gib strip locks on the X axis still catch and bend themselves if you are not careful when taking the Y axis back, its a crap design that allows them to foul another part of the machine as my older model does. Better that the controller is remoteley mounted so reducing vibration that can destroy the pcb's.
After reading your comment I have gone and checked and yes you are completely right. Looks like I’ll be making some replacements at some point 👍
@@MachiningwithJoe I have had one for over 15 years, mine has no oil points and the bed is made up rather than being solid. I need to get one of my gib tightener out as it was bent so many times it snapped. Motors are a failure point the old ones had a cowl over the motor that prevented proper ventilation, that went in the bin after the first motor burnt out and the Chinese made boards are crap and hard to repair as they scuff off the makers id from the semiconductors, I have never been able to take the backlash out of the x axis as the adjuster never seems to adjust. But I still have it, and it would be a much better machine with dro,s, oh and get yourself a set of carbon brushes they gobble them, warco used to do a motor brush end replacement, service is good I recognise the voice of the parts guy every time I ring them.
@@philsteele7151 I think the WM18B uses a brushless motor for better slow speed torque.
That column looks hella skinny... The rest of the machine looks nice, but that Z pillar is a disgusting manifestation of corporate greed and FEA... The machine like this is as strong as it`s weakest component, and if that component is one of the main axes, even moreso the one that carries the head and is affected by all and any work done by the head, well, we have a problem on our hands... I`m hardly pressed to see how that pillar is any more rigid than the round column of my Emco FB2, which is from what i can see - a smaller mill than this... That single component could and should have had twice the material that it actually has in it to make a really fucking good milling machine, and that could be seen as The best benchtop machine, but this, nah, just decent...
Also, what the hell man, spindle bearings should not even register on that clock... 0.01mm is not fine for a spindle of any sort of a precision machine... 1 micron is crude if we are talking precision, but for a hobby shop, 1 micron spindle runout(actual spindle, not a tool in the holder in the spindle) is very good, 2 microns is adequate, but anything more than that and you might as well be using a drill with an endmilil chucked with a jacobs chuck... 0.01mm runout is literally detrimental to cutters, and quite a lot if we are talking smaller cutters(like the ones a hobby shop likely uses) small endmills, drills, reamers, what have you, none of them like runout... Shit, my roller-blades with abec9 bearings have a lesser runout than that... Speaking of, here you go with a shameless plug - if you need some fucking remarkable bearings for small spindles(custom toolpost grinder or similar) you can get Bones Swiss bearings for skates, you will know which ones to buy, they don`t come cheap, but they are Swiss made and Swiss grade... You can get Bones Swiss Reds and others that come from China, but if you want savagely good small bearings - the Swiss made Bones Swiss bearings are the way to go... At least for high grade custom projects that don`t warrant custom ang. cont. bearings...
You sound jealous..
@@65cj55 nah, i`ve got the Schaublin 22 mill, if i need ultra-rigidity I can just rely on her majesty, i doubt that there is a single machinist that i would be jealous of in regards to the machine array that they have - i love machines, and as long as the operator treats them with devoted care, i have nothing but appreciation for them being the one that owns whatever beautiful machinery they do and take care of...
As a sort of a millwright, i know that i can not take care of every single machine in the world, so i never begrudge loving operators for having machines that I don`t...
Best regards!
Steuss
@@camillosteuss What's ''a sort of a millwright''.....either you are a millright or not..your original comment sounded like jealousy, very bitter, even swear words...weird.
@@65cj55 ``sort of a`` means that i`m a mechatronics tech with savage passion and maniacal interest in machines and machine repair/mods, it also means that i currently don`t have a functional shop, more of a machine storage room which offers minimal machining or restoration capacity due to lack of space...
Now, very bitter, sure, that i don`t reject, but i never hold envy towards any good operator, i only have contempt for machine abusers, but other than that, i generally speak my mind, curses included - whether i speak ill or well of something or someone...
@@camillosteuss So you're not a Millwright, not even ''sort of''...
Is it just me, or does anyone else think that the scraping/flaking marks you can see are purely cosmetic and a bit of a con trick?
I've thought the same.
Yeah I don’t think it’s proper scraping to get a perfectly contacting surface. After all the angle sections are the bit that contact. I’m hoping it is some effort to allow oil retention.
It's purely for oil retention.
Stop putting your hand all over in front of screen and trying to talk with your hands.
Your ruining your content.
Other wise I like the content and the way you explain things.
That's done very well
“I really like the brand Warco” is not a valid reason to choose it over a Bridgeport 😂
My guy, you will never regret getting a big boy mill
Trust me I would love a Bridgeport but I am faced with installation problems due to size and location of my workshop. Also space the great thing about these bench top mills for a small shop like mine you keep all the storage space below.
@@MachiningwithJoe That’s understandable, but then you should say so. In the video it sounds like you’re gaslighting yourself into buying this Warco machine.
Anyways, good luck with repairing the old milling machine 👍
Buy old.. not China
Would love to but due to location/ Space/ installation issues I need a smaller machine that I can take apart and carry in manageable pieces
Old is always worn out and over priced.
I have my 12 x 36 lathe in a 10x10 shed with a concrete floor
Cant fit a full size knee mill, floor cant rake the weight ither.
they make taiwan ones at busy bee but they are $7000
These small machines look like they will do keyways & flats no problem
Only issue for me is cross travel.
Bigest iv seen is 8" but again its $6000
The small one for $2000 gets 7" cross
Thats like 6" bolt patters max
Someone needs to make a small one with that will cross 12" to match with my 12" swing lathe so i can do 11.5" bolt patterns
@@65cj55yep, that's absolutely correct. Nobody ever bought a Tom Senior mill or a Centec 2b mill or any of the Taiwanese RF type mill/drills that was usable. All of the people that bought these bought just lumps of scrap and all the good work they did on them was faked.
Stupid, absolutist comment is stupid.
That only works if you can find a nice example, when I was looking for another lathe I couldn't find anything worth using. I ended up with a Warco, it's been great for the last 5 years, and more accurate than my old Harrison 11" lathe.