How to Mark out and notch steel beams - Structural steel work fabrication. 9”angle grinder
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- Опубликовано: 6 фев 2025
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I worked in structural steel fab shop for a while, this takes me back, I notched many an I beam with a torch. 👍🏻
17 years in the game ive never seen 1 single person use a grinder till this video...only reason i watched it
@@THE-POLYMATH grinder is a lot easier and can be a lot quicker (imo) but 9/10 you use a torch. especially repetitive stuff
@@rotam8680 I used a grinder in my first year of my apprenticeship, but then moved to a far more professional outfit for my second year; they were shocked that I did not gas cut the notches. It's far quicker, and less noisy, and less cumbersome.
Saludos! acabo de ver todos sus vídeos y son muy bueno los métodos que usa usted. Espero aprender mucho de sus conocimientos y esperando sus próximos vídeos para seguir apoyando su canal. Éxitos . Saludos desde La República Dominicana en el Caribe
Muchas gracias por ver el canal Jesús.
Su apoyo es muy apreciado.
Halo I send my support. It's really good to see your vlog
Thank you. And thank you for watching 👍
No radius? We have to build it back up with weld if it's too much of a corner like that. I think code is half inch radius but as long as it's rounded sufficiently it passes. Love your videos on structural nonetheless.
Hi Jesse.
Thanks for your comments.
All made to structural engineers drawings.
I understand why you’d radius.
It even looks better, but we’re simply not asked to do so.
All the best.
You should have a radius on the corner of the web notch to reduce stress
Thanks for watching. We would adhere to the structural engineers specification with regard to notch detail. They can have a radius as you rightly say for structural reasons. But equally can also be fabricated without. 👍
3/8-1/2 inch radius (9.5-12.7mm) as per AISC
I've been an ironworker for 10 years and have never not seen a radius. Unless it's not structural I guess
@@ronmerson6986 This, I was looking for it at the end of the video as he showed his fit up and was disappointed that it seemed lacking.
Gents you work to how you’ve been taught. So do I.
I work to drawings from structural engineers that show no radius. They do the calculations. Not me.
Nearly 30 years for the record.
Radius is fine and I understand that’s what you work to, where you’re from.
Never had a notched beam fail. You carry on doing what you’re doing. I’ll do the same. All the best.
A Swanson speed square (Or similar make) is a better tool for this job. Just round off the flat corner so it fits in the radius of the beams and it works a treat.
Thanks for watching, and thanks for your advice 👍
Speed squares are magnificent for all sorts of layout and worth having in any weldors bucket.
I’ve always been taught to never square cut your copes on the insides. Round them out or they will split.
Fair point Scott. And no doubt structurally correct.
Some specify it. A lot more don’t that I’ve dealt with. We work to those calculations. I’ve never seen or heard of a non radius notch failing. Not to say it’s never happened. And certainly not on any I’ve personally fabricated. Thanks for your comments.
@@TheMetalFabGuy I changed out 8-10 in the ceiling at Ford where they was straight notched an busted. Shut em down for 3 days for us to fix it
@@TheMetalFabGuy wish I could send pics on here!
Send to; Themetalfabguy on Instagram Scott.
Size/weight of beam suitable for its purpose in your opinion.
Or 100% the square notch. ?
Thanks for sharing knowledge, I just subscribed, greetings.
Thank you for watching 👍
What is that saw you used to cut?
Do you have a video that shows beam to column connection at the web of the column? Thank you. Nice videos🙏👍
Not yet.but maybe in the future
Thanks for watching 👍
How wrong can you be? In coping, you MUST HAVE a 1/2 inch radius in the web corners to the flange to prevent a crack to develop from vibration and thermal expansion, and contraction.
Where you are Frank maybe.
There’s a big world out there.
Fabricated to structural engineer’s specifications. If it had a radius on the drawing then it would have one on the beam.
Never seen a beam crack from a square notch / cope in nearly 30 years.
@@TheMetalFabGuy Apparently, you have never fabricated under a code or opened an AISC Code book. Do yourself a favor and do some reading. I worked in a steel manufacturing plant as a Class A Fitter but worked my way up to Chief Inspector with a Certified Welding Inspector (CWI) endorsement and certified in Canada under the Canadian welding Bureau (CWB).
@@TheMetalFabGuy A question for you. Are you actually welding these parts together or just giving them the pieces to weld on site? Are you sure they aren't adding the radius after it leaves your hands?
is notching the same as coping?
Pretty much in my book. Depends where you’re from and the terminologies also.
Never seen anyone do it with a grinder before and im 17 years in ... burn it in 45 seconds 🤷♂️
I have a possible fab job coming up. Your opinion please? How does one find the protocols for welding Hardox 450 Wearplate with MIG wire, and what would be the amperage range if the hardox is 1/4" thick?
I have no personal experience of welding hardox wearplate.
This may be of help. www.mig-welding.co.uk/hardox.htm
@@TheMetalFabGuy That’s a great start thank you very much. All the best to you.
What would be the method for attaching the beams?
Hi Bob. Thanks for watching.
After notching there would be 3 common options. And depending on the method, this may need to incorporated into the measurements of the initial notch.
Straight welded connection.
End plate with holes welded to the notched beam.
Angle cleats bolted to the notched beam again with provision of holes for both beam connections.
My dick juice
Always used a torch to cut beams easy when you know how.
For marking channel we always used profile of another piece as a template fits perfect for welding then no gaps to fill.
It’s a lot easier to start cutting at the bottom of the flange, this makes it easier to see your line
Thanks for watching and your opinion Lewis. 👍
Off camera this guy had hes head an back in bad dangerous positions trying to see hes line ...scoring a lead line should always travel away from body .. calling it just "easier" is very kind ... its a complete novice way to do it.. and very very risky
Pluss who uses a grinder to notch ffs.. he must be knackered using that 9 grinder all day in a fab shop ... how much he spending on discs ... im in london.. we burn it, give it a quick clean.put a radius in the corners then plate it ...3 /4 min job
A bit over cut
Yeah I usually just use a torch
Good idea Kane 👍
Buy a torch and a combination square trust me. Or not and do it the hard way.
Thanks for watching.
Look forward to your video using a combination square and torch. 👍
That is a dangerous way to use a 9" grinder. Key word being grinder. You have achieved the cope. Do that for eight hours. Cutting torch would be the better choice of tools. Use the grinder to dress the cut if necessary for attachment of connection.
Hi Barry. Thanks for watching.
That is a 9” grinder with a 9” purpose made cutting (key word) disc. Not a grinding disc. They make these now.
They also make the grinders in 4.5” versions if the 9’s are too much for you.
Fully agree on the cutting torch and an 8 hour shift. That would be down to the individuals preference, and what they have at their disposal.
There are multiple ways of achieving the same outcome. This is one way.
Every tool is dangerous if it isn’t used in the correct manner, and by a competent operator.
They need a UK RUclips to separate this guy from how we do it in the US... No MIG wire on structural steel. FCAW, 7018 or you're fired. Show me a UK structural code that says e70-6 is good for structural and I'll buy you beer all night.