People, you need to give the critiques a rest. This person went out of their way to try to help others and provide a relatively good video with excellent camera work and lots of details and if a minor point here or there is a little bit off, well, who cares. The idea is to create interest in repairing old tools. I say 'kudos' to the person posting the video for their efforts.
Thank you very much for sharing this with us. Very nice modification. I like the use of the terminal blocks. I wish I had thought of that instead of bullet connectors.
All that is not necessary. I pulled the sad NiCads and replaced them with four NiMh 4/5 SubC Sub C 1.2V 1800mAh Rechargeable Batteries with Tabs from Amazon. Probably 200% power and holds a charge for a LONG time. Took an hour and $19 because I had to order 6 and only used 4. It's been working great for 8 months of almost daily use.
Looks nice, but you overlooked a serious problem. You can't safety charge 18650 batteries with a Nicd charger. And, each 18650 should be charged separately, not together like that. When 18650 batteries explode, it's not fun. Sadly, to do this upgrade the right way is not easy. The difficulty is the charging circuit.
Just got one of these for nothing and it so naff but because it has ' trick features ' on its brilliant at same time. Pimping it out with Li - ion would make it better though , probably give it away . Am a Makita guy all the way pretty much.................
What would happen if I just took out the Ni-Cd cells and soldered two 18650's to it? And not changing anything else? Would the old charging system charge the 18650 cells?
I did that before stumbling onto this great video! You have to be careful not to run the 18650 down too low, or you'll kill them! Voltmeter is definitely a smart way to keep an eye on the voltage of your batteries.
You kept saying that you have the batteries in parallel, when in reality looks to be in series. You connected the positive and negative on top of the battery bank making understand that the batteries are in series to get your 7- 8 VDC.
you checked the cells that they have the same amp-hours? were they top balanced? a fuse on the battery and a diode on the charge circuit would be good. that timyay plug and female barrel jack can be easily shorted out
Thanks for commenting!! It said it had a 6V Ni-cd battery, and typically the voltage is close to 7-7.2 when charged. Looking at the motor, it is clearly a 12V motor. They just run it at lower volts like they do with most of the screwdrivers I have opened. Because I paid 2.99 for it, and I had the LGHB2 batteries 1500mah with 30amp draw(batteries don't break a sweat), I figured it couldn't hurt to upgrade this with those. I paid 1$ a battery when Jehu had them back a few month. I plan on using a 7.2V charger on this, or ,y Imax b6 when charging. As long as you keep track of the voltage with the meter on the btm, and don't run them lower than 6V, the battery will be fine. The DC jack they used is Isolated from the rest of the circuits and run to the batteries only(unless you hold the trigger while charging). This is why you cut the wires going to the original charge circuit and add longer wire. I made sure to also use shrink Tube and hotglue on the wiring. This Video is kinda old, and I've been using this tool non-stop for the past 2 months. I even paid 5$ on ebay and got a quick release B & D drill and screw tip set. This machine does not break a sweat when screwing in wood screws. Had a fallen fence a few weeks ago, and used this to reinforce all the slates.
nice! actually you did a good job on it, there is a diode already on the switch board isnt there? I said to check the voltages and capacity that way they will both stay the same from full charge to full discharge. you dont need to check the capacity since they were new cells not recycled. but still need to make sure they were both charged the same when you connect them.
Thank you! Durp!!Sorry, In the middle of testing Batteries and have Capacity on the brain. I charged them before building the packs individually to storage voltage, Then I charged them as soon as i was done with them with the Imax B6(DC jack to Xt60). 2S packs are pretty easily managed without a balance board. But I just got some pretty neat balance boards made for smaller 2s-8s packs. May add one later.
Quick question, why did you rewired the charging port straight to the batteries? Is the original charging circuit not better for providing protection, or is because it gives problems when switching to litiom batteries?
From what I remember, the charging port was for Ni-cd batteries and wouldn't offer the correct charging voltage. So i figured it couldn't hurt to bypass and use a 7.2V DC charger if I had one. I have also used it as the main charging with an adapter to my Imax B6. So Far this hack turn this bad boy it to a monster of a portable. Way more power than ever before.
Unfortunately, when I built that particular welder I wasn’t posting videos, but I did add the still on another video . I believe this is my welder number 2 of like 14-16👍
2:30 of the video shows me adding LGHB2. These are 1500mah and they're rated at 30amps. At the time, these were some of the best batteries to use on projects like this. But now 2 years later, you can find 3000mah at up to 50 amps 18650's. Its probably overkill for this built as I probably could have used any 18650s. But I am pleased with this build and this is still one of the main tools I use the most.
I got it for next to nothing and I already had most of the parts. I also love when I can make any of my tools useful after its end of life. Cost was pretty cheap after it was done and over, got the batteries for 1$ each from Jehu last year in a group by and the voltmeter and Momentary button I used cost around 2$-3$. After it was all said and done, this was way more powerful than the Ni-cd it had in it and one of my most used tools. Lithium Ions, seem to make most Ni-Cd tools, work allot longer and stronger. Pretty happy with this upgrade. Thanks for commenting!!!
You are correct. But the cells are Brand new and only in 2s configuration. anything 1s to 2s using brand new cells wouldn't need a BMS. The most that would happen, is the cell would 0V on me if I didn't watch the voltage. Charging, I never go above 7.4V. Now if I used crap cells or used cells, I probably would have used a BMS. To this day and 2 years later, I still use this almost every day on my projects.
@@fvfgx with 7.4V, I just use what ever I have out and easy to get to. PSU, Imax, Reaktor, Buck converter. Just what ever I have easy to get to at the time it needs charged.
This was a 2s configuration and I figured as long as I keep an eye on it with the voltmeter and use an imax it would be fine. It’s still running great today and one of my most used tools. The nicd I took out also had no bms
Worst thing I have ever, EVER, bought.!! Please, B&D , simplify the way to replace your batteries. If not I will go to another brand.. There R some nice ones at the store other than yours that will give you an easier way to change batteries. I threw this one in the trash....for real.
People, you need to give the critiques a rest.
This person went out of their way to try to help others and provide a relatively good video with excellent camera work and lots of details and if a minor point here or there is a little bit off, well, who cares.
The idea is to create interest in repairing old tools.
I say 'kudos' to the person posting the video for their efforts.
Thank you very much for sharing this with us. Very nice modification. I like the use of the terminal blocks. I wish I had thought of that instead of bullet connectors.
Very clever with the DYI VOLTMETER, thank you!
Thanks. This is one of my favorite tools to this date! Still going strong 👍👍👍
It does seem to be a lot of trouble but its better than adding to electronic /plastic waste.
All that is not necessary. I pulled the sad NiCads and replaced them with four NiMh 4/5 SubC Sub C 1.2V 1800mAh Rechargeable Batteries with Tabs from Amazon. Probably 200% power and holds a charge for a LONG time. Took an hour and $19 because I had to order 6 and only used 4. It's been working great for 8 months of almost daily use.
Did you make any other changes to the system?
Looks nice, but you overlooked a serious problem. You can't safety charge 18650 batteries with a Nicd charger. And, each 18650 should be charged separately, not together like that. When 18650 batteries explode, it's not fun.
Sadly, to do this upgrade the right way is not easy. The difficulty is the charging circuit.
Just got one of these for nothing and it so naff but because it has ' trick features ' on its brilliant at same time. Pimping it out with Li - ion would make it better though , probably give it away . Am a Makita guy all the way pretty much.................
What would happen if I just took out the Ni-Cd cells and soldered two 18650's to it? And not changing anything else? Would the old charging system charge the 18650 cells?
I did that before stumbling onto this great video! You have to be careful not to run the 18650 down too low, or you'll kill them! Voltmeter is definitely a smart way to keep an eye on the voltage of your batteries.
You kept saying that you have the batteries in parallel, when in reality looks to be in series. You connected the positive and negative on top of the battery bank making understand that the batteries are in series to get your 7- 8 VDC.
You are 100% correct! Not really sure why I said Parallel? Thanks for pointing that out and thanks for the comment!!!
you checked the cells that they have the same amp-hours? were they top balanced? a fuse on the battery and a diode on the charge circuit would be good. that timyay plug and female barrel jack can be easily shorted out
i did a similar thing with two cellphone batteries in parallel but they have protection boards built in, it is a small low power screwdriver
Thanks for commenting!! It said it had a 6V Ni-cd battery, and typically the voltage is close to 7-7.2 when charged. Looking at the motor, it is clearly a 12V motor. They just run it at lower volts like they do with most of the screwdrivers I have opened. Because I paid 2.99 for it, and I had the LGHB2 batteries 1500mah with 30amp draw(batteries don't break a sweat), I figured it couldn't hurt to upgrade this with those. I paid 1$ a battery when Jehu had them back a few month. I plan on using a 7.2V charger on this, or ,y Imax b6 when charging. As long as you keep track of the voltage with the meter on the btm, and don't run them lower than 6V, the battery will be fine. The DC jack they used is Isolated from the rest of the circuits and run to the batteries only(unless you hold the trigger while charging). This is why you cut the wires going to the original charge circuit and add longer wire. I made sure to also use shrink Tube and hotglue on the wiring. This Video is kinda old, and I've been using this tool non-stop for the past 2 months. I even paid 5$ on ebay and got a quick release B & D drill and screw tip set. This machine does not break a sweat when screwing in wood screws. Had a fallen fence a few weeks ago, and used this to reinforce all the slates.
nice! actually you did a good job on it, there is a diode already on the switch board isnt there? I said to check the voltages and capacity that way they will both stay the same from full charge to full discharge. you dont need to check the capacity since they were new cells not recycled. but still need to make sure they were both charged the same when you connect them.
Thank you! Durp!!Sorry, In the middle of testing Batteries and have Capacity on the brain. I charged them before building the packs individually to storage voltage, Then I charged them as soon as i was done with them with the Imax B6(DC jack to Xt60). 2S packs are pretty easily managed without a balance board. But I just got some pretty neat balance boards made for smaller 2s-8s packs. May add one later.
Quick question, why did you rewired the charging port straight to the batteries? Is the original charging circuit not better for providing protection, or is because it gives problems when switching to litiom batteries?
From what I remember, the charging port was for Ni-cd batteries and wouldn't offer the correct charging voltage. So i figured it couldn't hurt to bypass and use a 7.2V DC charger if I had one. I have also used it as the main charging with an adapter to my Imax B6. So Far this hack turn this bad boy it to a monster of a portable. Way more power than ever before.
I can’t find my light off? Can you tell me
How
Do you have a video showing how to make your battery welder?
Unfortunately, when I built that particular welder I wasn’t posting videos, but I did add the still on another video . I believe this is my welder number 2 of like 14-16👍
ruclips.net/video/Q2_XdHsw5Uc/видео.html
Could you please tell me the specifications of the new batteries?
2:30 of the video shows me adding LGHB2. These are 1500mah and they're rated at 30amps. At the time, these were some of the best batteries to use on projects like this. But now 2 years later, you can find 3000mah at up to 50 amps 18650's. Its probably overkill for this built as I probably could have used any 18650s. But I am pleased with this build and this is still one of the main tools I use the most.
@@njfulwider5 thanks a lot my friend... Tomorrow I'll go to buy those batteries... Best regards from Costa Rica
half way thru the video I found it was going to be a hell of a lot easy to go buy another one!!!
I got it for next to nothing and I already had most of the parts. I also love when I can make any of my tools useful after its end of life. Cost was pretty cheap after it was done and over, got the batteries for 1$ each from Jehu last year in a group by and the voltmeter and Momentary button I used cost around 2$-3$. After it was all said and done, this was way more powerful than the Ni-cd it had in it and one of my most used tools. Lithium Ions, seem to make most Ni-Cd tools, work allot longer and stronger. Pretty happy with this upgrade. Thanks for commenting!!!
Plus you just revived a good tool instead of adding it to the landfill 👍🏻
How do you put in or change bits
It has a quick change mech. That locks the bit in with a spring lock.
This one was all rusted I have oiled up but the springust have rusted away
do you sell this upgrade
Hay regard you didn't use a 2s BMS ON THAT, you have all the other toys funny you left that out
You are correct. But the cells are Brand new and only in 2s configuration. anything 1s to 2s using brand new cells wouldn't need a BMS. The most that would happen, is the cell would 0V on me if I didn't watch the voltage. Charging, I never go above 7.4V. Now if I used crap cells or used cells, I probably would have used a BMS. To this day and 2 years later, I still use this almost every day on my projects.
@@njfulwider5 oh wow 2 years that's good
Do you use a c6 smart charger
@@fvfgx with 7.4V, I just use what ever I have out and easy to get to. PSU, Imax, Reaktor, Buck converter. Just what ever I have easy to get to at the time it needs charged.
There is no bms.
This was a 2s configuration and I figured as long as I keep an eye on it with the voltmeter and use an imax it would be fine. It’s still running great today and one of my most used tools. The nicd I took out also had no bms
Worst thing I have ever, EVER, bought.!! Please, B&D , simplify the way to replace your batteries. If not I will go to another brand.. There R some nice ones at the store other than yours that will give you an easier way to change batteries. I threw this one in the trash....for real.