So glad you're back looking at this project. I've made such similar things. Not wearable as such but it small boxes. My plan is to buy an old dive computer one day and retro fit it into that..
Great format. Thank you for deconstructing the completed project and laying the parts out. Very clear and easy to follow. Well done Julian, I look forward to your next video and hearing of your personal struggle with these devices.
Great video. Just wondering what is the problem with Your Arduino UNO, can You upload bootloader to it and restore it to new? or is just getting corrupted over time(like windows) but on deeper level than bootloader? I'm newbie at this, so just keen to get some insight at things. Thanks
I managed to instantly brick one of my 1306 blueish I2C OLEDs by hooking it up with reversed polarity :(. Those displays looked virtually the same, so always keep an eye on the connector labels!
would you be so kind as to share your code for this project? It is very similar to something I am looking to do and would love to look at your code and modify it for what I am in need of.
Hey Julian! Do you plan on making a custom PCB for this project? Once a form-fitting PCB assembly and 3D printed enclosure is done, then it will look really nice.
Hey Julian, can u please help me with code here. I wish to display the continuous data from a pulse sensor to an OLED just like you displayed here for the analog pins. I am having trouble updating the data on its own.
15:40 I had one of those, and on that display D0 was SCL and D1 was MOSI. Looks like the driver chips can be used both in SPI and I²C mode, so in the latter case they would be D0 = SCL, D1 = SDA. Adafruit sells similar ones with solder jumpers to select between modes, but my display didn't have any, and I guess yours doesn't either. Of course the very thin leads are exposed, so maybe you could change the mode with a /very/ steady hand...
I guess you've found out about this now, but if not, the flickering on the oled display is because of the difference between its refresh rate and the shutter speed on your camera. When you closed the blinds, the camera compensated for the light by changing the exposure, i.e. changing the shutter speed.
You might be able to get the 'wearable' part down in size a bit,by using an ESP8266 module to replace the Arduino and NRF module(s),combining them in one package.
+Marvyn Harris I think the radio modules use a frequency hopping technique. You do have to specify a 'pipe' address though. Have a look at the TMRh20 fork of the RF24 library, that has loads of new features.
At 8:08 you plugged VCC into A1, wouldn't this cause a large amount of current to flow into A1? Since A1 is floating it will be at a lower voltage than VCC so lots of current would flow with very little resistance? I'm new to electronics so obviously I've missed something here
i always looked forward to the wearable project videos. do you think you will continue the electric bike videos soon? i would be interested as to how long the bike would last on a full charge using lithium batteries rather than lead acid.
Julian Ilett should come to australia then! lowest it gets is around 10 degrees and that is on a bad winters day. summer on the other hand, eh. last summer it got up into the 40's.
+Julian Ilett When setting off for the farm at 5am in November, I'd be warmed up nicely after 100 yards of pedalling. I was a fair bit younger I admit, and there's not many hills and the motorists aren't trying to kill you in Holland, so you are safe for those first 100 yards when you're still frozen.
Could you please make a video explaining how to use a 3.7 battery with an Arduino? People seem to assume it's easy to do, but I'm finding all sorts of conflicting advice and I'm more confused then ever. As far as I know, you need at least 7v to get an Arduino, it's screen, and sensors, to work.
Hi Julian, a real noob question - how do you regulate the lipo to 3.3V? I have the same issue on the esp chips, and could use a 3.3v zener diode? I can't run a lm1117 3.3v regulator directly, as the input voltage is too little, thus upscaling to 5v first, but that seem like a waste! But what do you use that works efficiently??
FaNTaSTic ViDeO. By chance you hit upon subjects that I have been quite interested in but didn't know what was possible.. VERY INFORMATIVE :) BTW. You could also rename this video "How to make the proper educational RUclips video"... if you don't mind me saying. I SUBSCRIBED by the 2nd video. I look forward to playing catch-up and have my fingers crossed for future infotainment projects. Thank YOU (So. Cail. USA)
Try rebooting your device and the same thing will happen. When I reboot my iPad I often get a battery percentage within 2-3% of the start. Since it is a lipo its % of charge is not linear. He also said that is recalls off of historical data meaning rebooting will cause it to recalibrate.
+ImJtagModz i2c for cheaper on aliexpress: (i bought 5 of them, work well) www.aliexpress.com/item/1Pcs-blue-128X64-OLED-LCD-LED-Display-Module-0-96-I2C-IIC-SPI-Serial-new-original/32523790205.html
+ImJtagModz That aliexpress one is the 0.96" version, so smaller than the one Julian linked to. Hence it costs less. Just a word of warning in case you missed the size difference.
Thank you !, question how long does your battery last? , do you know how much current does the screen draw?? also do you think if i connect it to a multiplexer it would still work. I have to connect 3 other components that use SDA and SCL pins
Julian, ever heard of Espruino? Its a javascript interpreter, which is a very easy to understand language, by itself awesome. But what makes it cooler is that it can be flashed onto one of those cheap £10 chinese smart writstbans with OLED's, take a look at this forum.espruino.com/conversations/280747/
+Ducky This is probably no the best first look at Espruino as that is quite advanced but i reccomend you take a look at espruino.com its much more efficient than arduinos
So glad you're back looking at this project. I've made such similar things. Not wearable as such but it small boxes.
My plan is to buy an old dive computer one day and retro fit it into that..
New subscriber and this stuff is actually brilliant. Please keep producing clear and interesting videos like this.
Really enjoyed this Julian, looking forward to further development of both the MPPT controller and the electric bike interfacing.
I was searching for so long for a video like this...
I was wondering what had happened to this project, I'm interested to see where you might take it!
good stuff, as always. :)
Great format. Thank you for deconstructing the completed project and laying the parts out. Very clear and easy to follow.
Well done Julian, I look forward to your next video and hearing of your personal struggle with these devices.
lots of potential here, thanks for sharing ...Peter
It's been a lovely sunny in willtshire.
Great video. Just wondering what is the problem with Your Arduino UNO, can You upload bootloader to it and restore it to new? or is just getting corrupted over time(like windows) but on deeper level than bootloader? I'm newbie at this, so just keen to get some insight at things. Thanks
I managed to instantly brick one of my 1306 blueish I2C OLEDs by hooking it up with reversed polarity :(. Those displays looked virtually the same, so always keep an eye on the connector labels!
would you be so kind as to share your code for this project? It is very similar to something I am looking to do and would love to look at your code and modify it for what I am in need of.
Hey Julian! Do you plan on making a custom PCB for this project? Once a form-fitting PCB assembly and 3D printed enclosure is done, then it will look really nice.
Hey Julian, can u please help me with code here. I wish to display the continuous data from a pulse sensor to an OLED just like you displayed here for the analog pins. I am having trouble updating the data on its own.
How did u get the batteries voltage?
15:40 I had one of those, and on that display D0 was SCL and D1 was MOSI. Looks like the driver chips can be used both in SPI and I²C mode, so in the latter case they would be D0 = SCL, D1 = SDA. Adafruit sells similar ones with solder jumpers to select between modes, but my display didn't have any, and I guess yours doesn't either. Of course the very thin leads are exposed, so maybe you could change the mode with a /very/ steady hand...
Is there a possibility to use multiple wearable that sends data to just one base arduino? Thanks for the insights..
I guess you've found out about this now, but if not, the flickering on the oled display is because of the difference between its refresh rate and the shutter speed on your camera.
When you closed the blinds, the camera compensated for the light by changing the exposure, i.e. changing the shutter speed.
Could you show us how to use an lcd display from a dso138 on an arduino?
Nice!
this is cool. is there a place where i can get your code so i can learn how you did everything?
How much longer would it last if the data wasn't transmitted as often (say, 1-5 seconds)?
You might be able to get the 'wearable' part down in size a bit,by using an ESP8266 module to replace the Arduino and NRF module(s),combining them in one package.
Do the transceivers have channels? Is it possible to have multiple transmitters sending data to one receiver?
+Marvyn Harris I think the radio modules use a frequency hopping technique. You do have to specify a 'pipe' address though. Have a look at the TMRh20 fork of the RF24 library, that has loads of new features.
At 8:08 you plugged VCC into A1, wouldn't this cause a large amount of current to flow into A1? Since A1 is floating it will be at a lower voltage than VCC so lots of current would flow with very little resistance?
I'm new to electronics so obviously I've missed something here
i always looked forward to the wearable project videos. do you think you will continue the electric bike videos soon? i would be interested as to how long the bike would last on a full charge using lithium batteries rather than lead acid.
+BoomBrush UK is still too cold (or maybe it's just me). As soon as it warms up I'll be back outside looking at all the summer projects.
Julian Ilett should come to australia then! lowest it gets is around 10 degrees and that is on a bad winters day. summer on the other hand, eh. last summer it got up into the 40's.
+Julian Ilett When setting off for the farm at 5am in November, I'd be warmed up nicely after 100 yards of pedalling. I was a fair bit younger I admit, and there's not many hills and the motorists aren't trying to kill you in Holland, so you are safe for those first 100 yards when you're still frozen.
I wonder if you would make it with esp8266 or a variant?
Could you please make a video explaining how to use a 3.7 battery with an Arduino?
People seem to assume it's easy to do, but I'm finding all sorts of conflicting advice and I'm more confused then ever. As far as I know, you need at least 7v to get an Arduino, it's screen, and sensors, to work.
I see the potential for a homemade wireless cycling computer.
Display connected to Arduino from SPI, not I2C?
Will you do more videos on this pls????
Hi Julian, a real noob question - how do you regulate the lipo to 3.3V? I have the same issue on the esp chips, and could use a 3.3v zener diode? I can't run a lm1117 3.3v regulator directly, as the input voltage is too little, thus upscaling to 5v first, but that seem like a waste! But what do you use that works efficiently??
+Laurence Munro There's a little LDO regulator on the Pro Mini board
FaNTaSTic ViDeO. By chance you hit upon subjects that I have been quite interested in but didn't know what was possible.. VERY INFORMATIVE :) BTW. You could also rename this video "How to make the proper educational RUclips video"... if you don't mind me saying. I SUBSCRIBED by the 2nd video. I look forward to playing catch-up and have my fingers crossed for future infotainment projects. Thank YOU (So. Cail. USA)
How did you monitor the lipo pack on the "wearable" Did you use the ardunio or a lipo board?
+Christopher Lange I used the MAX17043 lipo fuel gauge
Julian love see a schematic & code.... Will you make available ?? Cheers
+Ray Bright "Hello anyone there Julian...." we would love to see the code
where can i get a look at the coding ? i am trying to send data to another display and it not working for me thanks !
Hi Julian, Thanks for the great videos! Do you have a github.com account for your code?
Nice project. What chip did you use for the LiPo "fuel guage"?
+foley2k2 MAX17043
+Mike Causer Interesting, that uses a SPI bus. LC709203FXE-01MH is cheaper and uses I2C.
+foley2k2 MAX17043 also uses I2C
It would be nice if you would take the time to add links to all of the components!
Maybe on your "View Attributions" page, if not here.
+Ted Mieske I'll look into that
Could you post a link where you bought the digital receiver?
+Event Handler Links expire quickly. Search eBay for nRF24L01+
+Julian Ilett hi, can you publish a BOM of all the components? Thanks :)
Won't the nrf24l01 get damaged when powered by the lipo battery? Since the voltage is higher than 3.3v
+Nikolaj Gylling It's powered by the nano, which has a regulator
+Mike Causer a linear regulator?
please send me your reciver code. I need to send a array of data but cant figuire it out
7:33 notice the LiPo percentage went from 86.06% before the reset and then down to 82.54% after. 3.5% drop! Hmm... not sure about that LiPo monitor.
Try rebooting your device and the same thing will happen. When I reboot my iPad I often get a battery percentage within 2-3% of the start. Since it is a lipo its % of charge is not linear. He also said that is recalls off of historical data meaning rebooting will cause it to recalibrate.
Where did you get your Display from? I like the size and want to make one myself.
+ImJtagModz This one is 1.3" SPI - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331799146191 or if you want I2C, search eBay for 1.3" I2C OLED
+Julian Ilett Perfect. Thank you.
+ImJtagModz i2c for cheaper on aliexpress: (i bought 5 of them, work well) www.aliexpress.com/item/1Pcs-blue-128X64-OLED-LCD-LED-Display-Module-0-96-I2C-IIC-SPI-Serial-new-original/32523790205.html
+Charles Forman Even better. I will definatley be buying some of these.
+ImJtagModz That aliexpress one is the 0.96" version, so smaller than the one Julian linked to. Hence it costs less. Just a word of warning in case you missed the size difference.
Wouldn't it be better to use an ESP8266 as transmitter and your phone as receiver? :)
how did you get to display battery Percentage please help!!
Im using a Tinyscreen OLED +
Using the MAX17043 :)
Thank you !, question how long does your battery last? , do you know how much current does the screen draw?? also do you think if i connect it to a multiplexer it would still work. I have to connect 3 other components that use SDA and SCL pins
I think your fingers on the pro mini reset the board.
Just rewatched this, and I wondered: do you mean portable?
Which lipo fuel gauge chip are you using? Data looks nice.
+Ray Alderman MAX17043
Julian, ever heard of Espruino? Its a javascript interpreter, which is a very easy to understand language, by itself awesome. But what makes it cooler is that it can be flashed onto one of those cheap £10 chinese smart writstbans with OLED's, take a look at this forum.espruino.com/conversations/280747/
+Ducky This is probably no the best first look at Espruino as that is quite advanced but i reccomend you take a look at espruino.com its much more efficient than arduinos
Sourcecode plezse
a pip pip boy
cud do this with 2 Nanos
yep