Это видео недоступно.
Сожалеем об этом.
1-Day Project: Arduino and nRF24L01+ Data Transceiver
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 7 авг 2014
- Using Maniacbug's RF24 Arduino library to get 2x nRF24L01+ transceivers talking to eachother
nRF24L01 2.4GHz Radio/Wireless Transceivers How-To
arduino-info.wi...
github.com/man...
Thanks a million! You excellently show and demonstrate the wirings (and soldering) that the others just write about or hint at - this was truly helpful!!!
Hi Julian, nice video. I liked the way that you presented it. Easy, with real material from internet and explaining how you did it step by step. Great!
Thiago Camargo Thanks very much.
Do you think you could do a video on making 2 of these communicate using some sort of messaging system and an LCD desplay? that would be awsome. thanks
Just started into hobby electronics. You're my second video on Arduino programming, and I'm already a huge, huge fan. Thanks for this.
Tons of questions, but I'll keep watching videos and reading. Want to hack together a wireless Bitcoin price display, but I'm still working through lighting up LEDs one light a time.
Baby steps. Thanks so much, again.
I got few of this nRF24L01+ modules recently and this is awesome video to watch out before implementation.
Works! Thanks. I can verify that mine did not work very well at all until I added 10uF caps.
I purchased a couple of these figuring I would be able to get help from the web. Your video is just what I was looking for. I have to admit, it only could have been better if the wife or kids or dog came through the front door and ran over your test setup! Good job!
Fabulous video. I have enjoyed many of your videos. You make them so easy to follow and I even think I understand when you've finished. But, I am denser than stone, and go back to view them again and again. Sometimes I would pay a nickel to hear you giggle, but no matter, keep up the excellent work.
Thank You,
dancingBear
I've recently been doing a project using these nrf modules. I was using the green ones that are 10 pin. They just have extra Vcc and GND pins that seem redundant. When I tested them I got about the same range through walls as you said roughly 15-20 at a guess. I then tested them outside with direct line of sight and got 41 metres before I ran out of space. For anyone else going to use these, you can download the nrf library from within the Arduino IDE. It just makes things a bit simpler as you don't have to go and find the library online and rename it etc. They are decent little modules when they work.
lol this video is almost a carbon copy of what I was doing yesterday, same website, same code, same everything except I didn't solder a cap in. So easy and cheap!
Thank you Julian, I also had a Eutika moment thanks to your cool and presise presentation. Now to disect the code and see how it works.
Julian Ilett I believe you can enhance the reception of the transceivers by soldering a wire to the exposed copper tracks (which I believe to be the on-board antenna) to a metal coil or WiFi antenna it increases the range of about 4-5x depending on the metal used for the antenna. It does reach a range of up to 2000 feet when it's on line of sight.
Check out my blog post about transmitting strings with the nRF24L01 transceivers. With the bare library, you can only transmit integers and numeric data, so I made an in depth guide on converting strings to binary, transmitting, and reassembling on the Rx end here: www.walltech.cc/transmitting-strings-with-the-nrf24l01/
Walltech OSHW I will take a look at your guide
great test, so glad it's working. Used these 24's a while ago and they are very cool. Now with the arduino even better, thx
Julian, another interesting and informative vid.
Good info on libs, code and module functionality.
The higher the freq, the more arial orientation comes into play with blocking and reflections introducing beaucoup effects.
Best signal strength for this 'meadering' type antenna is with antenna's Z axis pointing at non-blocked sig source with no reflections to mix out-of-phase sig w sourse sig.
If sourse is blocked, search for a reflected sourse like your fridg's door....
Laying the Tx module on the kitchen floor focuses most, but not all, of its Tx energy at the ceiling.
Regards and keep up your good work. Its always of value!
Regards/73
Russ in NH/KA1RUW
Nice video, nice audio, clear and thorough guidelines! Magnificent tutorial, champ! Thank you very much:D
I tried many other examples, but this is the one that worked! Thanks!
You have a great series of videos. I love that you show off and try out the very cheap boards available on amazon and eBay. Those of us wondering if they are worth a punt can gain lots from these.
Thanks :)
Excellent. I'm looking forward to a follow-up with one end swapped out for the "high power" + "big" antenna version - that would be closer to the configuration I'm planning - one central unit with the posh transceiver and the super cheap modules on various satellite systems around the house - I'm hoping to get some up to about 40m away from the central unit
Okey Dokey. Maybe I'll try that right now!
With your observations regarding power supply rails; - brings back great memories of Years gone By!;- my specialist boards FULL of TTL LOGIC!!! and my need to install More and More caps as I expanded my HUGE logic designs ...I must have spent several HUNDRED BUCKS just on a DISCO LIGHTING CONTROLLER in the past! = now I just use an MCU... (Arduino etc etc)...
Hi Julian, many thanks for the well-presented clear videos. I do however notice that quite a few of those links are now obsolete.
Built this, as I had a couple of them from Banggood kicking around in my "Curiosity Box" - where I use up the last couple of quid in my PayPal account.
Had a Nano, and some 3.3V Pro Mini's, the latter I buy like candy.
Set it all up, then realised I'd connected 5V to the radio module. S H one T!
It SURVIVED! I put one pot. on the transmitter - Analog0 on the nano, and used the exact same code. Analog1 was floating. Nano mounted on a similar breakout board aas your setup.
Here's weird....the readout dutifully showed Analog0 tracking 0-1023 nicely, but Analog-1 closely tracked it, until I grounded Analog-1.
Reckon the Chinese don't clean the flux off their boards thoroughly - must've been the extreme impedance of the analog pin, Wasn't capacitive, else it'd (A1) have changed over time. Bit of a caveat there, if folks are getting odd readings on their analog readouts.
Hey awesome video, next time think about using a screen recorder (screen-o-matic works well for me) to record visuals on your PC
Julian, you really are a very good teacher.
Great video. I'm going to try it out tonight as see if I can get it to work. Thanks again.
I'm using them to send outside environmental and other data inside. I found the Maniacbug library easier than the RadioHead library. A 1 microfarad capacitor seems to help.
Nice walkthrough. I am using Mini Pro clones, which don't have 3.3v regulators, so before I decided to go buy some regulators, I decided to go dumpster diving in the e-waste, and I took apart quite a few things. I found several 5v regulators but I didn't find much at all in the way of 3.3v regulators. Seems everyone is making switching power supplies these days (or filtered big old transformers, in the older days), but not too common to find the 3.3v regulators. Finally I decided it wasn't worth finding these, and bought a pack of 10 of the knock-off base modules for like $4.50 from china ... cheaper than dirt, I shouldn't have wasted my time in the dumpster. Except now I need to wait for shipping. =\
Amazing ... I have the exact same setup with an UNO and a Nano with shield like that and I'm trying to look for a tutorial ... Then I accidentally clicked on your video ... Lol ... You've just gained a subscriber ... :D
that bulky board with a micro on it, is configured as a i2c device.
i've a couple as yet unused, but a pdf i found details a simplistic rx / tx setup with them.
the 8 pin interface adaptor is rather handy, the names seq for the 6 pins is memorized.
stephen
link to pdf?
+DancePartyAttack
icstation sells it, mine came via aliexpress
link to page and doc pack
www.icstation.com/icstation-nrf24l01-wireless-shield-interface-p-2835.html
Thank you for this video - it should prove most helpful. More importantly, I dig your "Harry Potter closet". Not sure if that is the name of it, but here in America I think those are rare... we don't have them in our houses
If you look carefully at the video, you'll see a tiny three-pin surface mount chip on the Uno clone, labelled 662K. That's a voltage regulator whose purpose is to drop 5V to 3.3V at up to 200mA . I suspect that may be the actual source of 3.3V - there wouldn't be much point in having it on the board if the CH340G was capable of making 3.3V available.
The capacitor that u have soldered is for high power nrf24(the one with the antenna) this small one doesnot need to soldered with a capacitor the voltage is quite stable in it's case . I am using it with arduino uno for my project without any capacitor on and it works like a charm :D
Some need a capacitor, especially with an arduino mega or nano. i have some nano and uno and i only get problems with my nanos without the capacitors
This is a great video! Thanks. I noticed on the info page for the nRF24L01+ that it can talk to "up to 6 devices at once." Do you know what happens beyond 6? Would there be any interference issues? I'm wondering because I'd like to build 50-100 modules and have people using the radios to send message, and I'm wondering what kinds of problems I might run into. I'd be grateful for any insight you have!
Very nice demonstration! You made it very easy to follow along! Thank you very much! Subscribed!
Julian, Love your videos, thanks for the efforts and continual stream of new ideas and information. Off topic question, but are your cables hand-made or did you purchase those pre-made from somewhere else? Please, do tell.
Fantastic video, thanks for taking the time to do this, it's going to be a great help. Have you looked into connecting these with the Raspberry PI at all?
Fascinating side note, who knew the CH340 carried the 3v3 vreg duties. 200mA or less I would imagine. Is this a standard method for that second voltage. Do some knock offs have dedicated SMD like an AMS1117 3.3 offering a little more robustness therein. It is a very nice version of the Uno with the double gated I/O headers. Not an easy find these days to be certain. As per usual a very enlightening Illet production. Best regards
What's the part number for those capacitors you used, and where would could I go to buy some online?
Very Nicely Done Dude. Keep up the great work. Nick.
Love your tutorials. Thanks,
Regards from Colombia
Hi Julian. where did you get your Arduino board. i like the idea of having male pins as well as female pins for connections.
What happens if you solder a piece of wire to the PCB antenna? Are antennas that simple or size/length/shape need to be fine-tuned for any improvement at all to be observed?
No, you cant just solder a wire to a pcb antenna. Antennas are tuned, and they need to be designed very carefully. A lot of math goes into designing an antenna. By soldering a wire or even touching an antenna you are effectively changing its inductance and capacitance thus changing the resonant frequency. :)
Hi julian,i have saw some of your videos, they are fantastic! And i have a question about nRF24L01, is necessary to have 2 nRF24L01 to send data between they or can i use only 1 nRF24L01 and a normal radio controller?Is to make a quadcopter with arduino, and can you help me to use mpu-6050 as gyroscope for it?
Helped me. Thanks for your time that you put in for this video.
Julian, are you using the module with the larger antenna as one of the two units in this example or two of the same smaller NRF24 units? Thanks!
Great video Julian. I have a question. How did you configure CONFIG register of both NRF24L01 ?. Can you post the values ?
Hi Julian, I have just tried to find the Sketch you used but it is no longer on the page. Could you post a copy pleae.
web.archive.org/web/20140214091914/arduino-info.wikispaces.com/Nrf24L01-2.4GHz-HowTo
Hi Julian Ilett , I did the exact same thing you showed in the video, but I am always getting "No Radio Availiable". One thing I noticed was that the LED 13 (SCK) is not glowing at all. I tried swapping the transmitter even then, same thing. Please help.
PS: Can it be a power issue?
Good result.... I used exactly the same online resources.
Have you tried the Interrupt driven examples yet? Handy when you want confirmation that a message has been received.... I want to use these to send notification of one-shot events (cat-flap open, pir triggered, bomb dropped, etc) so, as a test, I left a pair of these chatting to each other overnight, one message every 300ms with a small oled displaying message counts. The result was that about one transmission in six didn't make the trip, probably a result of my shocking code as distance didn't really affect the result. Easily fixed though by checking for failures and resending.
Great little modules despite their annoyingly breadboard unfriendly footprint. I splayed the pins out on a couple and soldered them to some IC sockets to use them directly on breadboard. Cheap and cheerful fix. :o)
Have you tried putting a paperclip over the built in antennas to see if you can extend the range?
+ Julian Ilett
Another good video man keep it up. rc model review has some great videos on antennas, I played about with my rc plane and a cheap as all hell set up and found his video on antennas really good. If you get yourself some circular polarised antennas you should not get that drop out. Something about radios is exciting when I first seen a Cybiko Xtreme a few weeks ago it seemed so much funner than a mobile phone.
Ive seen a few people on forums get 3-5 miles out of a 5.8 GHz 250mW transmitter with directional antennas and the like. Just watch yourself anything below 5.8 is limited to stupidly small transmitter power because of the mobile networks.
Id enjoy more videos on this sort of stuff
cheers
+Julian llett - could I connect this chip or the high power model to a network shield on my UNO and some of the low power chips to sattelite projects around the house and controll them via LAN or WAN? would be a much cheaper alternative to purchasing small WIFI capable microcontrollers for the sattelite projects.
This is great! Thanks for all the awesome vids! I work in pro audio with wireless microphones. Spectrum analyzers are incredibly expensive. Do you know if there is a way to build a Spectrum Analyzer with Arduinos? Thanks again!
Hello , I wonder if this Arduino module 2.4G NRF24L01 + Wireless Transceiver Module + SMA Antenna Microcontroll will need internet connection? I intend to use in an area where you do not have Internet Connection , already congratulate you for the excellent video. Best Regards
Nice video. Interesting take on orientation.
Well done Julian. Is there a follow up where you build on this?
Hey Julian Ilett - Maybe you could try adding on more wire to the end of the antenna just to see the results? Its a test I want to try on mine when I get some time. Off the top of my head I think the 1/4 wave antenna on the board should be about 31mm- maybe try adding wire to take it up to half, 3/4 and full wave :) Might be a cool test if you still have them set up. Would love to see the effect on range.
Cheers! Eric
yes, i too wonder if the cheaper on board ones can be extended with some wire, would im sure be a money saver, if someone is sure of the exact length of course (not saying you arn't Eric :}
jusb1066 Just double checked. Full wave is indeed 12.5cm. Should be good to go at 31mm 1/4 wavelength intervals. Darn I wish I had mine set up as I've been itching to see how far they could truly go reliably. Hope Julian tries it out :) Cheers
Eric William Julian Ilett
The NRF24L01+ is an amazing little chip, we got over 300 ft inside, and didn't seem to have a power issue, but what we have is a slightly different version of the one pictured. The drop off seemed to be around 320 - 330 ft for us. We were in a rather large area, that was mostly open, but had metal rack units every few feet. so a bit better then the norm for these. which is around 200 feet the day could have just been right for it too....or the fact that nothing was really in the way
www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uploads/820169487X569826X26.pdf
Eric William hey Eric, fwiw I pulled apart a cheap 2.4ghz RC transmitter and found an antenna of 8.7cm long: www.iforce2d.net/2.4ghzAntenna.jpg There is something solid and metallic inside the lumpy part, and the total length of the black section is exactly 62mm. Not sure what the extra 2.5cm silver part is for at the end? This is supposed to be good for 80m but I've never tried anywhere near that far because the quadcopter it came with is so small I can't see which way it's facing after about 20m!
Julian Ilett , could you please make a project , if possible, on how to use the stc15f204lea breakout boards as an SPI to UART converter for the NRF24L01+ to directly connect the RX and TX wires(of stc15f204lea) to one arduino. You can also reply me the way to do so, i.e; starting from flashing the stc15f204lea with the hex file generated from a code using the appropriate software. Thanks in an Advance.
Great Video as always! got a new subscriber :) .. Keep up the good work...
ok i got them to work, i'm just getting intermittent data, like 1 out of 2 lines loses signal and shows "no radio available"
can u make a video on how to control dc motors with joysticks via arduino and NRF24LO1
Have a look at dronebot workshop.
Julian, I'm a follower and also a Green Horn Newbie. the Capacitor I have looks( like a black tube with 2 wires out the bottom) a bit different and has a plus and minus side should I do the obvious plus to 3.3 v and Minus to ground or am i using the wrong capacitor. for some reason i'm afraid of wreaking this module.
your clear and fun videos inspire me to keep teaching myself electronics.
thanks
great tut thats more like 4 meters not 7 :) and could you do a tut on voltage sensing (external power up to 5 volts with common ground)?
Hi, I didn't understood if the High Power module have to be used WITH the nRF24L01, or if it simply is a more powerful (long range) version of the same thing. I'm intrested in using theese modules in a quadcopter-like project, so i need high reliability...
Intresting video, by the way! Thanks!
+TheItalianGamer They are the same but with amplifier and sma antena
Hi +Julian
I'm looking to build a wireless kind of headset using the Arduino. I was wondering if this set will converting the analog signal from let say my iPod to a digital data that will be then received by the receiver?
Julian, thank you for your posts, Man. They are nicely paced, and have helped me get started on this new hobby.
Question: Can I bind one of these NRF24L01 modules to my old toy remote control? ......How?. I have connected it to the arduino, loaded a program I found in the NRF24 library that is supposed to "Listen", with no results. When I start the Remote control, However, it beeps like it did pair up, although it behaves like it didn't, and the program stays like in a loop trying to find the signal. Can you help?
We will need the details for the toy remote you are using to help. Depending on the frequency, chip type, compatibility etc it would theoretically be possible although it might be more work then necessary.. If your toy remote is relatively simple (ie not many outputs/channels) you may be better off pairing two of these RF24s' and building your transmitter and receiver around these chips. Is your toy remote 2.4ghz ? If so it is theoretically possible. Sorry I can't be more help :( but leave me some details and we can maybe help you out. Cheers
Thank you, Anthony Odin. I appreciate you attending to my question, sir. Although it might not seem like it, but sometimes asking the right questions is a lot of help :-)
I bought a Zipp Nano Copter (from propelrc), that ended up damaged. I tried to buy the receiver board, however, did not get very good response from propel, which now I see some other people hvae had the same bad experience. It is the remote control from this Zipp Nano-copter the one I want to re-use, and it reads, 2.4 GHZ 4 channels. Take a look: flightclub.propelrc.com/products/zipp-nano-copter/pages/helicopters/helicopters
You are just perfect Julian. I bought 3 NRF24L01 and I am desperate to communicate but I am using Visual Studio. and I do have FTDI cables. I am wondering where the pins are connected on arduino is possible to let me know please so I can make a comparison.Thank you in advance
Brilliant vid thanks for putting it up , can these transceivers use 125khz sir ?
solder about 17 cm copper wire to the antenna. and connect the same length to ground.
Bam! there's a halfwave dipole antenna!
Hocam selamlar. Kullandığınız kondansatör kaç uf?
Ben 10 uf kullandım ama sonuç alamadım. Kütüphane ve Kodlama da sorunum yok. Derleme tamamlandı diyor. Fakat iki modül birbiriyle veri alışverişi yapmıyor.
Thank for all videos. All are helpful.
Would it be practical to hook up an aligator clip to extend the antenna or would that mess with harmonics and the kind of stuff?
Another awesome video.
I have been a subscriber of yours for a while now and have learned so much from you.
I am curious if you would be open to doing another video on the nRF24, Specifically Example Remote_led by maniacbug. I am new and am having trouble understanding some of the code in this example.
thanks for the video would love to ask you some questions on the overall performance and how it can be ingratiated into rc use???
juwan prescod Watch iforce2d for the answer to that
OK thank you
Hi Julian, thanks for the guide. Very informative! I'm wondering, would you do another tutorial where three transceivers are used; one receiver and two transmitter? Would love to see one tutorial about this as it would be helpful for my project that I am currently doing.
Cheers!
Kyle
YKSui Not sure about that. It may work if the same pipe address is used. I'll be trying the multiceiver setup in due course (single transmitter, multiple receivers).
Okay cool. Looking forward to it!
Hi Julian, Great video and thank you for making this can I ask a question please. The question is can these RF24 connect to the local wifi network? If so where would I find the code for this to work. Only new to this stuff but a communication Technician by trade. I am trying to get the wifi to control a pro mini to control a relay to turn on and off a light.
Your best bet would be a ESP8266 its similar price but is a wifi chip, the NRF24L01 is RF so it wont interface with wifi with out a lot of work
Thank you for the helpful video. When I try to upload these two example sketches to my arduinos, I get the following error on the Rx sketch. I'm pretty new to using Arduino in general. Did you get this error too? /Would you know whats causing this?
for the following line in the code:
done = radio.read( joystick, sizeof(joystick) );
it says, "void value not ignored as it ought to be"
have you tested how far you can go away with de module with the antenna as a transmitter and a normal nrf module as a receiver?
Hey Julian, thanks a lot for such an excellent explanation which tutorials fail to provide. Can you please tell what's the significance of the 'size of' function inside the 'radio.write' ? I want to send values of only one potentiometer wirelessly, so when I wrote something like 'radio.write(pot)' {I had taken the variable 'pot' for the values}, it returned an error. Can you help?
the write() func needs to knowtje size of the Data. sizeof() gives that in bytes
hi !!!! i've got my module to work but it works fine at 5cm apart and after that the recieve signal are lost what's wrong with that i have powered my modules from the board and added a 10uf cap in parallel !!!
i can't figure out whats the problem
Monitor your 3.3 volt supply. If you have a scope even better. It does look like your 3.3 volt supply does not have enough current available or too much voltage drop in your wiring.
Hey great video, i have a question, do you know how to activate the nrf24l01 without a library in assembler, i managed to make the spi communication between two p16f877a but not with the nrf24l01
hi nice video.
I'm using nrf24l01 for my project but I need to transmit 6 values from 6 sensor. The problem is that I should add a delay (500) on receiver algorithm ether wish it doesn't work and it says no radio available?
how I could fix it ?
thanks
Great video and information. Thanks
Can you do more such as this with data transmission?
Thanks for great explain :) now I can easily make RC car and stuff.
Hello,
Thanks for nRF24L01 Examples using the RF24 Libraries,
I want to know, if it's possible to send and receive data every 10 ms ? (delay 10)
Thanks I made it and it works perfectly
Hi ! I got a 2.4GHz transmitter (Literally a joystick, bought from Amazon) and I want to use it with my arduino and a nRF24L01 module.. Do you know how to get started ? Thanks a lot!
Hi Julian, thanks for great video. Do I have to solder capacitor if I have socket like at 1:12 ?
Arsalan Iravani Having a capacitor between ground and the vcc on the rf board is the important one if one is already on the module it should be fine. The capacitor between vcc and ground allows some charge, up to the input voltage, to accumulate in the capacitor then if the circuit momentarily draws more current than the supply will allow to flow (because of resistance) then the power will come out of the capacitor instead of the processor or other components not having enough power to operate normally. having one for the Arduino input if your power source can't handle the draw at times helps as well.
is there a way to replace the PCB antenna? I have an broken Wifi router here, with a nice 2.4 GHz Antenna...
Can you connect the nrf24l01 to the icsp pins on the Arduino so that I can get more digital pins?
I'm more interested in those helping hands. Have a product link for those? :P
How can we get this to work on the digispark?
What would happen if I connected the VCC to 5V? I'm trying to create a wireless robot with 2 spared nRF24L01 modules using my Arduino Esplora as the controller. The only problem is that my Arduino Esplora only has 5V output.
Jason Lee You'll probably break it. Absolute maximum rating for thr supply voltage is 3.6V. The signals are 5V tolerant though.
How long does it take for the data to start streaming after powering on the Arduinos?
Reni
I am using 2 different controllers. Pololu A star32U4 and Arduino Uno. I use 1uF and 4.7uF (Uno). They are not talking. The monitor says "no radio available"
How do you test the radio if they are not working? is there an phone App to test communications
Can a i2c level converter be used for the 3.3v with only vcc and gnd pins used?
do you see any indicator lights on the transceiver module when it is in operation?
Not on the module itself, but the D13 LED on the Arduino does flash in sympathy with the transmitted packets.
Are the RF24's signal 5V proof?
I can't seem to find it in the sheets. That it works witth 5V signals without smoke combing out is obvious :)
HELLO JULIAN...THANKS FOR THIS VIDEO
CAN YOU HELP ME..IM TROUBLE IN CHOOSE WHAT TYPE CAPACITOR
Can also detect the received power?
Dear Julian,
How can write time measuring programs? using an external input signal as input?
+Mohammed Ahmed P.S. I can only do this using C programming language