** Important ** Ruger has corrected my statement at 7:44 about the torque settings. That screw through the forend band should be torqued to 8-12 inch pounds. The barrel band screw near the muzzle is the one that should be torqued to 24-28 inch pounds.
… I’ve never used a torque wrench on scope rings or bases … I tighten them up “reasonably snug” … never had an issue of scopes or bases coming loose, stripped screws or deformed scope tubes from “armstronging” ring screws … after 50 years of installing dozens of rings and scopes I think I have got “the feel” for it
I have had 3 blued factory forearm band screws break on my 336 30/30 exactly like yours. I ordered a stainless replacement and it has held through several years of use.
Thanks for the great video. I purchased a Marlin 1894 in 44 Mag about a month ago. I haven't shot it yet. Beautiful rifle and I don't know how I missed this when I bought it. The bolt and receiver are not machined/matched properly. When closed, the bolt is flush (not perfectly )with the rear of the receiver however the front of the bolt sits inward from the receiver significantly with a sharp burr on the receiver that will remove skin from my calloused finger. I'm estimating 1-2 thousandths of an inch. I'm in the process of sending it back to Ruger now for evaluation. I'm hoping they replace the rifle as I don't know how they can fix it. The rest of the fit and finish is perfect.
Hello George, You asked what we've found effective to get rid of bore lead and other stuff. I've discovered this and it works exceptionaly well. Use Butche's Bore Shine solvent and take your cleaning brush and wrap some copper mesh around it. Chore Boy pure copper cleaning pads for kitchen scrubbing use is what I use, they're inexpensive. It really works. I really enjoy your videos like everybody else, especially old west guns.
Hi George! Best leading remedy is "no be there". Lead bullets at high velocity, then the higher pressures of those loads. I suggest NOT using copper clad bullets to shoot the lead out; which I think "irons" it in. Bronze wool saturated in the vinegar formulae of WIndex has helped me and not as potentially harmful as ammonia (although ammonia is effective), Since I cast my own bullets, I can control the alloy and I find that 1/2 of Lyman #2 (95/2.5/2.5) is my sweet spot. That will lead too, but less than Lyman #2. Then, the kidker is to powder coat the bullets. It is easy and very effective. Then again, I am not quite hiting the velocities of the 44Mag. If you shoot copper and then lead, the copper seems to encourage the lead to transfer even more, or so I am told as I do not shoot copper condom bullets. It is good that you made Ruger/Marlin aware of the problem,
Beautiful wood and blue on that Ruger. Alot more steel and it looks like the 44 mag hits them hard. Pond sure is shaping up, few more heavy rains. Good to see you back.
Forty or so years ago I purchased a Mac Inch-pound torque wrench. I paid a lot of money for that tool. Didn't think I'd really use it much but I can tell you, honestly, that thing has come in handy more times than I can count. There are many mechanical things out in this world that require sensitive torque settings and this thing REALLY has come in handy!
When I worked for Hewlett-Packard I had access to very accurate torque drivers like the one you have. There's nothing like it. They're just very expensive in today's world. I'm hoping the Fix-It stick device is good enough😉
Lewis lead remover. Kroil. Hopies9. Pure copper scrubber. The electrolysis system. Ultrasonic cleaner. I have used all these methods. I bought a police trade model 10 Smith and Wesson with the two piece barrel that was layered in carbon, copper and lead. Start with hoppes9 and let it soak at least an hour before bronze brush.
Glad things are going well. Teslong has stepped it up with the folder. I have the 450 which helps a lot. Gotta love that nice Marlin. Copper nose bluegill can grow quick & big but blue herons seem to know that too. Take care. 🙏👍
Yep. We've had great luck with copper nose bluegill because they spawn all spring and summer. We have a little attention with the cormorants but that's manageable. Our biggest challenge is going to be protecting those big Florida Bass from the otters. They just love those big lazy Bass.
I do watch your videos George but it's funny that you put this video on today. I just recently bought one of these rifles for my wife and this afternoon we shot it for the first time. When i got it out of the safe i noticed slight wiggle in the forearm but all seemed ok. In shooting the gun on about the 3rd shot i noticed the end of this same screw walking out, it was broken. I've got to get in touch with Marlin now myself. I had also already put the hammer spur on because we plan to scope it. I had got that as tight as i could but didn't use thread locker and it went flying also after the second shot.
George, I hope this message finds you well. It is good to see you again it has been way too long. I miss you hummer, you candor, and your ability to explain the mechanics of guns so average humans can understand. P lease don't stay away so long even a short showing the pond level just so i know you are still out there.
I hate cleaning lead out of a long barrel. Started using Oregon Trail bullets with silver in the bullet have not had an issue. Loved the video you do a great job Thank You.
Glad to see you back! I've been a bit delayed on my channel as well with my day job and all, too, so I can understand being away for a while. But great to see you back! God bless!
Hi from France, I've the Lyman borecam for years now, it's an important tool in order to watch the barrel with precision . About broken screws, it happen but makers send new screws rapidly , in europe too .
Glad you’re back! I used to have a Lewis lead remover for a 44 magnum pistol. I was always afraid it was removing more that lead. I also borrowed an electrolysis set for lead and copper I used in rifles. It worked pretty well. I can’t remember who made it, that was back in the 90s.
Welcome back George! Was getting a little worried about you. Glad your doing well. The pond is looking great! I saw a comment from someone about Hickok 45 made about leading. I seam to remember that. Anyway good to see you again! Y'all we're missed
Best I know is clean it run a brush with solvent , to scratch the lead , leave it for a day or 2 depending on the solvent . Clean it again , you can also use a brush with a patch & rubbing compound smeared all over it . That can be left to " work " before you clean out the slag .
Nice to see you back. A lot of work has gone into rebuilding the pond. Well done. Nice rifle, nice shooting. If I have a firearm that is especially dirty, I clean it once, letting the solvent sit and work for a few minutes. After cleaning I wait, and then reclean with another solvent, let it sit and work, and then clean and repeat as necessary. Different solvents seem to get different chemicals and lead out of the barrel, so let two or three have their shot at it.
One of the best bore cleaners I have found is Butch's Bore Cleaner - it is some really strong stuff but works great, I have used it on several different guns that would not get completely clean with other bore cleaners.
You made me get on of those marlin 1894 44mags or I should say that you made me want one. I also plan on getting me a 336 when I find one. Ruger has done a really nice job on those guns.
That is a beautiful rifle… I had a marlin 44 mag and a 41 mag a 35 marlin and a 45/70 a golden 39A … and a Mountie a Winchester 44 mag with a saddle ring and a whole bunch more… and guess what… I sold them… I think many times what a idiot…. Thanks buddy..
You are welcome! And like you I have sold some mighty fine Firearms over the years. While it when I think about those guns, usually it was the right call at the time.
Birchwood Casey lead removal cloth has given me great results. Also wrapped a bore brush with copper wire from a copper scrub brush for frying pans. Wow, that worked fast. Then finish with the lead remover cloth. I cut the cloth into patches to fit the bore jag. Thanks for all the videos.
That Birchwood Casey lead removal cloth isn't something I wouldn't recommend to be near any blue steel guns as it will remove the blued finish without any effort.
@@TargetSuite You're welcome! I just wouldn't want you, or anyone else for that matter, to find out the hard way that it removes bluing from a firearm. Fortunately, I didn't have to learn that lesson the hard way either thanks to others explaining how these cloths they are great for removing the burn rings on stainless steel revolvers, but to never use them to clean a blued gun because it just takes the bluing right off.
What are the chances that a little bit of lead in a barrel is a good thing? I'm asking because lead has been used as a lubricant under certain circumstances.
If by a little bit you mean a little bit that doesn't affect accuracy then I don't think it's particularly a problem. But I don't think as a lubricant it has a positive impact on accuracy or velocity
Lewis lead remover, brownells sells it. Back when I carried a S&W 686 on patrol, we qualified with the most horrible (cheap) lead bullets. I had to clean it immediately before the night shift as there was always an inspection. They worked flawlessly in a revolver. When we went to Glock 22’s no more problems.
I would definitely use a solvent on the lead. There may be specific solvents for lead, see what muzzle loaders use. Soak the bore and plug both ends for a couple hours.
That was my intent. I will probably accomplish that with the new 1894 357 magnum. I pre-tested that magazine tube and it slides out like it's supposed to.
I'm guessing you may already know that "ranger point precision" makes a finger lever screw for the Marlins that requires no tools to remove or install. It's a bit pricey for a screw but it works very well, stays in place, & makes cleaning much easier. In addition you don't have to worry about buggering up a screw head anymore. They also look pretty nice on the rifle & they offer a few different cosmetic styles to suit individual tastes.
I learned about turpentine treatment while shooting bpcr. Take a closer patch soaked in turpentine and swab the bore copiously. Allow to soak for 5 to 10 minutes. Next take as tight a patch as will go through the barrel and swab it through only once. Do another soak with the turpentine followed with another very tight patch. Keep doing so till all the lead is on your tight patches instead of inside the barrel. No harm to the bore and an all natural chemical in and on your firearm.
George, try powder coating your cast bullets. Leading will stop and you will enjoy an overall cleaner bore. Try smashing a powder-coated cast bullet with a hammer. The coating will remain - the stuff is amazing.
I started powder coating all my cast lead bullets....the results were amazing, no more barrel leading , no powder coat residue. Recovered 38 special 158 grn powder coated bullets shot thru wood target frame into sand filled steel belted radial tire retained 80% of coating. I push powder coated bullets at same speed as copper plated bullets with excellent results. I was thinking about working up a hard alloy and try them in my 357 and see how they perform
RE: shoot the lead out , I try not to do that . Start clean , shoot jacket first & lead last . I don't shoot jacket again till it's clean . I have tried to shoot Berry Bullets now & then to gently push some lead out . Did you notice the accuracy drop off ??
I did not notice any change in accuracy but then again I was just shooting steel targets. And these guns are generally capable of very good accuracy. So even if it falls off I'm still on target.
A video i always remeber from hickok45 is excess leading from casy bullets is typically from two things. Excess velocity, and an undersized bullets for the bore size. Swage a pure lead slug through your bore and measure it. His video was specifically about 44 magnum i believe as well. In some pistols/rifles he had to use .429 sized bullets and others .431 or higher if I remember correctly.
Good to see you again! Pond looks took be coming along great! It's a little concerning to know that to remove the front barrel band on that new 1894 that you had to remove the entire front sight due to the barrel band being so tight. I wonder if they were thinking that the tighter fit of the band would reduce harmonics and possibly improve accuracy??? 😉 I'm curious about their response to the issue. Meanwhile, did you get a look at the new S&W 1854? Looks like a Marlin/Henry inspired design. I hope that you get a sample to review. Again, good to see your smiling face!
I will second the Kroil recommendation. Run a wet patch soaked with Kroil down the bore. Let it soak a few days, ten run tight fitting patches through the bore. Then repeat as needed.
That's a beautiful rifle. However I'm from CT and it makes me sad that my state chased almost all of the historic gun manufacturers out of state! The same goes for NY state! But I am glad that Ruger stepped up and bought Marlin and continued the tradition ! your bore scope and screw driver set are pretty sweet as well. the pond and range are awesome as well, nice job!!!👍👍
I had planned on getting the Marlin 44 mag lever as my first lever gun but at the last minute I switched to the Henry instead. It arrives next week. Hopefully the Henry won't give me grief with breaking screws and super tight parts. I guess I'll see. I've had plenty of annoyances with guns over the years though so I suppose I'm ready for whatever. I've always cleaned every gun right after I shoot it but semi autos aren't generally as involved as lever guns appear to be. I think I'll just focus on cleaning the bore and bolt for now. Nice to learn about that bore scope too. I've had it in my TODO list for a while to get one of those and see if I've actually been getting the bore clean. For rifles I just run a snake with solvent and oil through once. The theory is that since I clean it immediately -- and generally after only 100 rounds of less -- that should be enough. Heh. I have this fear that the bore scope will tell a different story and I'll have to spend days with lots of solvent and brushes to get the deep fouling out. On the other hand maybe I'll never get around to it and that will be a task for whoever winds up with them after I croak. 😂
Thanks for reminding about the Lewis LED remover. I used that back in the seventies when I had a Smith & Wesson model 58 and I shot my own cast bullets for that 41 magnum. I honestly didn't know that the product was still available.
Butche's Bore Shine is made for removiing lead, copper etc. I've used that for years. I got it at Sportsmans Warehouse, but probably sold in most gun stores.@@frankbrowning328
@@TargetSuiteas far as lead removal. I have a Lewis Lead Remover kit from Brownells. Mines a .45 Cal Pistol & Revolver kit. It did a fantastic job. Maybe they still have them.
I always enjoy your video's, and the bore scope seems to work well. We had a farm pond north of the border, which I miss, but in the winter when it froze and snow, we always had a problem with wild mink taking the fish under the ice in winter. They went back to the woods in spring.
Thanks for your comment. We are going to have problems with otters for sure. Just a few years ago we thought it was fun to see the occasional otter or otter carcass. But today they have become a real nuisance and are particularly hard on large mature bass. We will be after them as well as the Beavers with a vengeance.
Are you using copper gas checks on your cast bullets? Using gas checks on my lead cast bullets, I have had a lot less lead build-up in barrels. I use Lewis lead removers (brass patches). I get them at Brownell's. They are the best way I have found to remove lead in barrels. Dip them in Kroil. It helps. Good luck, and keep the videos coming.
Thanks for your comment. Yes, these bullets do have gas checks. This is the worst I have ever experienced it may be because I was alternating copper and lead. I'll find out!
Pro Shot makes a lead cleaning cloth. You can cut whatever size you want out of it and run it through the bore like a patch on a jag. Wilson Combat bore polish is your friend too. My hatred for cleaning lead is what keeps me shooting jacketed bullets.
Yay a new video from George and that 'other guy' from Target Suite. I have had good luck with Kroil to remove lead, with a bit of time letting it soak in. However I do not have a bore scope so I am not sure if the barrels I have cleaned with it were totally clean or not.
Another great video George The bore scope tool is really cool. I love the simple design of the Marlins. I have been reading the comments. I am a little bit jealous of your following Haha
I like how you left some snags in the pond for fish cover. As for the lead; I have used Barnes CR-10 Bore Solvent for lead and copper. I don't know about cast lead but it gets the lead outta my .22's.
I had some heavy leading in my Mossberg 500 slug barrel that a phosphor bronze brush wouldn't budge. I soaked a patch with Hoppe's No. 9 and put on a jag and ssssllllooowwwwllllyyyyy pushed the jag through the barrel. Followed up with a dry patch and you could see the lead on the patch. A little more brushing, some soaked patches, dry patches and pristine.
@@TargetSuite will it be a better screw? Did they change harden it more? I just don’t want another frail screw again and waste ammo to find out if it’ll hold.
One suggestion I have for leading concerns how to prevent it. I shoot a few jacketed bullets after shooting some cast bullets. That generally helps prevent major lead fouling. You might try shooting a bunch of jacketed rounds to see if that would force the lead out.
Unfortunately the shooting of jacketed bullets after shooting lead slugs will just burnish that lead into the bire making it harder to remove the lead deposits.
For leading a long soak in Kroil will help loosen things up then the chore boy trick you used. Otherwise I guess reduce the amount of lead by using a different lead alloy and gas checks especially in rifles. No idea if that Fiocchi ammo is meant to be fired out of a rifle, it obviously doesn't hurt but I'm thinking of a few specific for rifle designed bullets from Hornady and they don't have exposed lead. I don't know if that matters. I've heard of and tried following up a revolver range session with a few total jacketed bullets but I honestly have no idea if that really helps or is a placebo; I cannot even remember where I heard that "tip" from. I limit the lead out of my lever guns just based on my experience with revolvers it seems like it'd be horrendous to clean. Thanks for the videos as always.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching! I kind of exasperated the leading problem just for the video, full disclosure😉 but, I didn't anticipate it being quite so hard to get out. Thanks for all your input.
I have used Shooter's Choice Lead Remover in my revolvers and Marlin lever guns. Just follow the instructions on the label to make your lead deposits vanish.
Great video!! It's interesting that the screw snapped. Going to have to keep an eye on it to see if it is a material or engineering deficiency issue. I wonder if it was caused by the heavier loads of the 240s. It's also GREAT that Ruger responded quickly to fix the issue with parts and specs to ensure the gun is reassembled correctly and safely. I like the leather workbench pads, IMHO I believe they are better than the off the shelf rubber blocks that are currently available. The Teslong Fold and Focus is really nice especially the focus part. I'm going to have to get one to augment my other scope. I never thought about wrapping brass wool over the brass cleaning brush. I'm going to have to try that. Bolt guns and AR platforms are relatively easy to take apart and clean, but the lever actions have always been a pain for me to take apart; until a experienced lever action enthusiast showed me how to do it. He explained all the parts and how they work together. The time he spent sharing his knowledge was priceless. The pond is on its way to becoming a great place. Whatever happened to that little utility ammo hauling truck? Keep the videos coming they are a wealth of info!
hello george , to get the lead out , ultra fine steelwool oooo . .used it as a cotton wap on a cleaning rod . wil do the work take care of the crown , in the blackpowder world they use that , and you get also a littler smoother barrel if you can safe use it to get rust from bleuing its safe if used once or so , and copper wool is also a option copper ceaning pads for kitchen use
Yep, that's what I found, probably on RUclips a long time ago, Chore Boy copper scrubbing pads, cheap too. I use in conjunction with those a solvent called Butches Bore Shine
That’s a really nice bore scope you got there George. Some folks will tell you to blast the lead out with full bore jacketed rounds, that doesn’t work, it just irons the lead down in the grooves lol. Lead out with some chore bore strands wrapped around a bronze brush and lots of elbow grease. Took me awhile to get the lead out of a revolver once before I started powder coating my cast bullets. Since I started PCing I haven’t had any more issues. Glad you got some water in the pond 👍🏻 🎣
I would also add, slugging one's bore to see what size it is, and making sure the cast lead bullets used as sized appropriately, and if powerful enough, that a decent copper gas check is used. If that's too much work, at least consider using powdercoated cast bullets to reduce or eliminate leading. The greatest cause is hot gas blow-by, by incorrectly sized bullets and/or pressures too high without gas checks or good powdercoating.
I appreciate your comment. These bullets from cast performance our coded and have gas checks. I suspect the velocity is just too high. But, I will double check the fit in the bore. I may need to go back to Montana bullet Works bullets that are oversized.
@@TargetSuite Slug the bore see what it's running. From what I've read, if your groove is .429, a cast lead bullet would run .431. Hardcast probably .430 due to less obturation upon firing. Gas check and lube works plenty well, but probably not as well as good powdercoat to prevent leading. If this is Microgroove, then slightly different rules apply about oversizing cast lead, usually less oversize is necessary because of shallow groove.
Heard of people firing 3-4 copper jacketed bullets behind shooting lead and it seems to clean quite of a bit of it out. I don’t shoot lead so not entirely sure of the limitations of this. I got a Microgroove Browning B92 recently that I had no idea the history of, so I just ran the bronze brush back and forth with solvent til the resistance drastically decreased.
Ain’t getting older a hoot George? I’ve gotten dirty, been in for work and broken in a couple spots myself, lol. But I figure that any day still sucking atmosphere, not staring at the bottom of the grass roots, is a gift from God! Good to hear from you again brother! Stay well! Edit: Do you use gas checks on those cast bullets?
I have a Ruger Marlin .357 with a 1.5x Burris scope on it. Shooting Federal 158 gr soft points, my 50 yard groups hover around the inch for 3 rounds. 100 yards she goes from 1 & 3/8ths to 2 inches. Those 158s chrono from my carbine at 1760 fps. The fit and finish of mine are better than any of the JMs I've owned or handled. I know... Blasphemy! But its true nonetheless. The only objections I have are the plasic rear sight element and front sight base. Both are easily and unnoticeably replaceable. Also, the elimination of mounting holes for a receiver sight. Not all of us want Skinners. But these are minor. Kicks and giggles. Not a lot of kick. WHOLE BUNCH of giggles!
Birchwood Casey makes a lead remover cloth that I’ve cut to size and used with a jag to great success on removing lead in the barrel from cast bullets.
Yep, I've used that cloth on my 1873 revolver cylinder, did good. My barrels I use Butches Bore Sine solvent for lead removal with Chore Boy copper mesh on a cleaning brush, That cleans em up nicely.
You might try some Lead Out. Also, another person suggested using powder coated bullets which is an excellent solution. You can get more speed without leading.
@@TargetSuite thanks, I was always curious about how well gas checked bullets and poly coated bullets stopped leading. I have a Winchester 94 .44 mag that needs de-leading as well.
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** Important ** Ruger has corrected my statement at 7:44 about the torque settings. That screw through the forend band should be torqued to 8-12 inch pounds. The barrel band screw near the muzzle is the one that should be torqued to 24-28 inch pounds.
… I’ve never used a torque wrench on scope rings or bases … I tighten them up “reasonably snug” … never had an issue of scopes or bases coming loose, stripped screws or deformed scope tubes from “armstronging” ring screws … after 50 years of installing dozens of rings and scopes I think I have got “the feel” for it
I have had 3 blued factory forearm band screws break on my 336 30/30 exactly like yours. I ordered a stainless replacement and it has held through several years of use.
I just purchased the same gun, shot around 30 rounds and my screw had some the same thing.
Will 300 grain cast cycle at all?
Thanks for the great video. I purchased a Marlin 1894 in 44 Mag about a month ago. I haven't shot it yet. Beautiful rifle and I don't know how I missed this when I bought it.
The bolt and receiver are not machined/matched properly. When closed, the bolt is flush (not perfectly )with the rear of the receiver however the front of the bolt sits inward from the receiver significantly with a sharp burr on the receiver that will remove skin from my calloused finger. I'm estimating 1-2 thousandths of an inch. I'm in the process of sending it back to Ruger now for evaluation. I'm hoping they replace the rifle as I don't know how they can fix it.
The rest of the fit and finish is perfect.
I was just thinking to myself today, "I haven't seen Target Suite for some time and hoping he's okay," and here you are.
Yes I am still here and older than ever😃
Ditto, always professional and informative. My gun taste run parallel and in the same age bracket so go figure.
Hello George,
You asked what we've found effective to get rid of bore lead and other stuff. I've discovered this and it works exceptionaly well. Use Butche's Bore Shine solvent and take your cleaning brush and wrap some copper mesh around it. Chore Boy pure copper cleaning pads for kitchen scrubbing use is what I use, they're inexpensive. It really works. I really enjoy your videos like everybody else, especially old west guns.
Thanks for sharing your expertise!
One caveat here, be sure to get the copper Chore Boy. They make a copper colored nylon product now that looks the same, but isn’t.
Good seeing you back in action George.
Thanks!
Hi George! Best leading remedy is "no be there". Lead bullets at high velocity, then the higher pressures of those loads. I suggest NOT using copper clad bullets to shoot the lead out; which I think "irons" it in. Bronze wool saturated in the vinegar formulae of WIndex has helped me and not as potentially harmful as ammonia (although ammonia is effective), Since I cast my own bullets, I can control the alloy and I find that 1/2 of Lyman #2 (95/2.5/2.5) is my sweet spot. That will lead too, but less than Lyman #2. Then, the kidker is to powder coat the bullets. It is easy and very effective. Then again, I am not quite hiting the velocities of the 44Mag. If you shoot copper and then lead, the copper seems to encourage the lead to transfer even more, or so I am told as I do not shoot copper condom bullets. It is good that you made Ruger/Marlin aware of the problem,
Thanks! I appreciate your input!
BS
Beautiful wood and blue on that Ruger. Alot more steel and it looks like the 44 mag hits them hard. Pond sure is shaping up, few more heavy rains. Good to see you back.
Thanks Mark!
There does seem to be some authority behind those .44 Magnum cartridges! They do "SMACK" those steel targets.
Forty or so years ago I purchased a Mac Inch-pound torque wrench. I paid a lot of money for that tool. Didn't think I'd really use it much but I can tell you, honestly, that thing has come in handy more times than I can count. There are many mechanical things out in this world that require sensitive torque settings and this thing REALLY has come in handy!
When I worked for Hewlett-Packard I had access to very accurate torque drivers like the one you have. There's nothing like it. They're just very expensive in today's world. I'm hoping the Fix-It stick device is good enough😉
Lewis lead remover. Kroil. Hopies9. Pure copper scrubber. The electrolysis system. Ultrasonic cleaner. I have used all these methods. I bought a police trade model 10 Smith and Wesson with the two piece barrel that was layered in carbon, copper and lead. Start with hoppes9 and let it soak at least an hour before bronze brush.
Next if you still have lead use the Lewis lead remover. A patch or 2 of jb bore compound should be the end of it.
Perfect!
Hoppe's is good shit.
Glad things are going well. Teslong has stepped it up with the folder. I have the 450 which helps a lot. Gotta love that nice Marlin. Copper nose bluegill can grow quick & big but blue herons seem to know that too. Take care. 🙏👍
Yep. We've had great luck with copper nose bluegill because they spawn all spring and summer. We have a little attention with the cormorants but that's manageable. Our biggest challenge is going to be protecting those big Florida Bass from the otters. They just love those big lazy Bass.
I do watch your videos George but it's funny that you put this video on today. I just recently bought one of these rifles for my wife and this afternoon we shot it for the first time. When i got it out of the safe i noticed slight wiggle in the forearm but all seemed ok. In shooting the gun on about the 3rd shot i noticed the end of this same screw walking out, it was broken. I've got to get in touch with Marlin now myself. I had also already put the hammer spur on because we plan to scope it. I had got that as tight as i could but didn't use thread locker and it went flying also after the second shot.
If you will reach out to me on my targetsuite@gmail.com email I'll make sure the right folks hear about your broken screw.
Good to see you back. I missed you content
Yay! A Target Suite video!
Yes! He lives!
George, I hope this message finds you well. It is good to see you again it has been way too long. I miss you hummer, you candor, and your ability to explain the mechanics of guns so average humans can understand. P lease don't stay away so long even a short showing the pond level just so i know you are still out there.
Thanks. I really appreciate your comment!
Like many others was starting to wonder “wheres George”. Good to see you back doing down to earth quality videos.
Thanks!
I hate cleaning lead out of a long barrel. Started using Oregon Trail bullets with silver in the bullet have not had an issue. Loved the video you do a great job Thank You.
Glad to see you back! I've been a bit delayed on my channel as well with my day job and all, too, so I can understand being away for a while. But great to see you back! God bless!
GREAT TO SEE YOU SIR WAS WONDERING WHAT WAS UP GREAT RIFLE AND THAT BORE SCOPE IS SUPER
Welcome back, George..............................................
Thanks! It's good to be back.
Great Seeing Ya Back. God Bless
Hi from France, I've the Lyman borecam for years now, it's an important tool in order to watch the barrel with precision . About broken screws, it happen but makers send new screws rapidly , in europe too .
WOW! so glad to see you back!
Thanks. It's good to be back!
Glad you’re back! I used to have a Lewis lead remover for a 44 magnum pistol. I was always afraid it was removing more that lead. I also borrowed an electrolysis set for lead and copper I used in rifles. It worked pretty well. I can’t remember who made it, that was back in the 90s.
Thanks for your comment. I too used a lewis-led remover back in the seventies on my Smith & Wesson 41 magnum. It was a very effective.
Welcome back George! Was getting a little worried about you. Glad your doing well. The pond is looking great! I saw a comment from someone about Hickok 45 made about leading. I seam to remember that. Anyway good to see you again! Y'all we're missed
Thanks Terry! I told Janet it feels good to post a video again.
Great to see you back George. I missed your videos and enjoy them. Make many more.
Lord willing I'm in for the long haul!
@@TargetSuite I’ll be 75 in July and every day is a blessing. I keep as active as possible and work on my health.
Great video, George! This grown man is smiling!
Haha! Smile on ! ! !
Glad to see you again. It has been a while😀
Too long! Thanks for watching!
Good to see you, too, George!
Best I know is clean it run a brush with solvent , to scratch the lead , leave it for a day or 2 depending on the solvent . Clean it again , you can also use a brush with a patch & rubbing compound smeared all over it . That can be left to " work " before you clean out the slag .
"Let it set." I agree, give the solvents time to do their magic. I often go back with a different solvent as each seems to work slightly differently.
Nice to see you back. A lot of work has gone into rebuilding the pond. Well done. Nice rifle, nice shooting.
If I have a firearm that is especially dirty, I clean it once, letting the solvent sit and work for a few minutes. After cleaning I wait, and then reclean with another solvent, let it sit and work, and then clean and repeat as necessary. Different solvents seem to get different chemicals and lead out of the barrel, so let two or three have their shot at it.
Thanks for the comment. I always appreciate your insight!
Been missing your videos
Thanks!
Good luck with the pond !
It’s good to have you and your new videos back again. Happy New Year!
Thanks!
It's good to see you back, George.
Thanks!
Nice to see you back..Love your Video's..Alberta Canada 🇨🇦
Thanks! Being a "native" of Saskatchewan, I love to hear from my brothers and sisters up north!
One of the best bore cleaners I have found is Butch's Bore Cleaner - it is some really strong stuff but works great, I have used it on several different guns that would not get completely clean with other bore cleaners.
You made me get on of those marlin 1894 44mags or I should say that you made me want one. I also plan on getting me a 336 when I find one. Ruger has done a really nice job on those guns.
They really have done a great job. Nothing's ever perfect but overall their new lever guns have great quality and superb function.
Glad to see you and the other guy again 🤣
Thank you!
That is a beautiful rifle… I had a marlin 44 mag and a 41 mag a 35 marlin and a 45/70 a golden 39A … and a Mountie a Winchester 44 mag with a saddle ring and a whole bunch more… and guess what… I sold them… I think many times what a idiot…. Thanks buddy..
You are welcome! And like you I have sold some mighty fine Firearms over the years. While it when I think about those guns, usually it was the right call at the time.
Birchwood Casey lead removal cloth has given me great results. Also wrapped a bore brush with copper wire from a copper scrub brush for frying pans. Wow, that worked fast. Then finish with the lead remover cloth. I cut the cloth into patches to fit the bore jag. Thanks for all the videos.
Thanks for watching, and thank you for your tip. It looks like a good one!
That Birchwood Casey lead removal cloth isn't something I wouldn't recommend to be near any blue steel guns as it will remove the blued finish without any effort.
Thanks for the heads up!
@@TargetSuite You're welcome! I just wouldn't want you, or anyone else for that matter, to find out the hard way that it removes bluing from a firearm. Fortunately, I didn't have to learn that lesson the hard way either thanks to others explaining how these cloths they are great for removing the burn rings on stainless steel revolvers, but to never use them to clean a blued gun because it just takes the bluing right off.
What are the chances that a little bit of lead in a barrel is a good thing? I'm asking because lead has been used as a lubricant under certain circumstances.
If by a little bit you mean a little bit that doesn't affect accuracy then I don't think it's particularly a problem. But I don't think as a lubricant it has a positive impact on accuracy or velocity
Lewis lead remover, brownells sells it. Back when I carried a S&W 686 on patrol, we qualified with the most horrible (cheap) lead bullets. I had to clean it immediately before the night shift as there was always an inspection. They worked flawlessly in a revolver. When we went to Glock 22’s no more problems.
Thanks! You're the second to recommend that ancient solution! I didn't know they were still around.
I would definitely use a solvent on the lead. There may be specific solvents for lead, see what muzzle loaders use. Soak the bore and plug both ends for a couple hours.
Welcome back. Went looking for you yesterday thinking maybe I had missed something. Glad you are back, and looking forward to more.
I'd be interested in seeing you completely disassemble and reassemble that rifle.
That was my intent. I will probably accomplish that with the new 1894 357 magnum. I pre-tested that magazine tube and it slides out like it's supposed to.
I'm guessing you may already know that "ranger point precision" makes a finger lever screw for the Marlins that requires no tools to remove or install. It's a bit pricey for a screw but it works very well, stays in place, & makes cleaning much easier. In addition you don't have to worry about buggering up a screw head anymore. They also look pretty nice on the rifle & they offer a few different cosmetic styles to suit individual tastes.
Yes sir. And those are handy little screws
I have put them on all of my Marlin centerfire rifles.
I learned about turpentine treatment while shooting bpcr.
Take a closer patch soaked in turpentine and swab the bore copiously. Allow to soak for 5 to 10 minutes. Next take as tight a patch as will go through the barrel and swab it through only once. Do another soak with the turpentine followed with another very tight patch. Keep doing so till all the lead is on your tight patches instead of inside the barrel. No harm to the bore and an all natural chemical in and on your firearm.
Great! Thanks for the suggestion!
George, try powder coating your cast bullets. Leading will stop and you will enjoy an overall cleaner bore. Try smashing a powder-coated cast bullet with a hammer. The coating will remain - the stuff is amazing.
Thanks. These cast performance bullets are coated with some kind of clear polymer. But I don't know if it is the same as powder coated.
I started powder coating all my cast lead bullets....the results were amazing, no more barrel leading , no powder coat residue. Recovered 38 special 158 grn powder coated bullets shot thru wood target frame into sand filled steel belted radial tire retained 80% of coating. I push powder coated bullets at same speed as copper plated bullets with excellent results. I was thinking about working up a hard alloy and try them in my 357 and see how they perform
RE: shoot the lead out , I try not to do that . Start clean , shoot jacket first & lead last . I don't shoot jacket again till it's clean . I have tried to shoot Berry Bullets now & then to gently push some lead out . Did you notice the accuracy drop off ??
I did not notice any change in accuracy but then again I was just shooting steel targets. And these guns are generally capable of very good accuracy. So even if it falls off I'm still on target.
I use a Lewis Lead Remover for my 44 firearms.
A video i always remeber from hickok45 is excess leading from casy bullets is typically from two things. Excess velocity, and an undersized bullets for the bore size. Swage a pure lead slug through your bore and measure it. His video was specifically about 44 magnum i believe as well. In some pistols/rifles he had to use .429 sized bullets and others .431 or higher if I remember correctly.
Good to see you again! Pond looks took be coming along great!
It's a little concerning to know that to remove the front barrel band on that new 1894 that you had to remove the entire front sight due to the barrel band being so tight. I wonder if they were thinking that the tighter fit of the band would reduce harmonics and possibly improve accuracy???
😉 I'm curious about their response to the issue.
Meanwhile, did you get a look at the new S&W 1854? Looks like a Marlin/Henry inspired design. I hope that you get a sample to review. Again, good to see your smiling face!
Thanks, Wayne. It's good to be making vids again. And yes I have an 1854 on order from S&W
I will second the Kroil recommendation. Run a wet patch soaked with Kroil down the bore. Let it soak a few days, ten run tight fitting patches through the bore. Then repeat as needed.
Nice to see you still making videos brother. Keep up the good work.
Thank you, Jeremy! Looks like you had a great time in the Philippines!
That's a beautiful rifle. However I'm from CT and it makes me sad that my state chased almost all of the historic gun manufacturers out of state! The same goes for NY state! But I am glad that Ruger stepped up and bought Marlin and continued the tradition ! your bore scope and screw driver set are pretty sweet as well. the pond and range are awesome as well, nice job!!!👍👍
I had planned on getting the Marlin 44 mag lever as my first lever gun but at the last minute I switched to the Henry instead. It arrives next week. Hopefully the Henry won't give me grief with breaking screws and super tight parts. I guess I'll see. I've had plenty of annoyances with guns over the years though so I suppose I'm ready for whatever.
I've always cleaned every gun right after I shoot it but semi autos aren't generally as involved as lever guns appear to be. I think I'll just focus on cleaning the bore and bolt for now. Nice to learn about that bore scope too. I've had it in my TODO list for a while to get one of those and see if I've actually been getting the bore clean. For rifles I just run a snake with solvent and oil through once. The theory is that since I clean it immediately -- and generally after only 100 rounds of less -- that should be enough. Heh. I have this fear that the bore scope will tell a different story and I'll have to spend days with lots of solvent and brushes to get the deep fouling out. On the other hand maybe I'll never get around to it and that will be a task for whoever winds up with them after I croak. 😂
Oh, and I only shoot FMJs... so hopefully less lead is left behind. 🤞
Brownels has the Lewis lead remover system for less than twenty and it will reliably remove lead fouling. It's been around for decades and works well
Thanks for reminding about the Lewis LED remover. I used that back in the seventies when I had a Smith & Wesson model 58 and I shot my own cast bullets for that 41 magnum. I honestly didn't know that the product was still available.
+1 on the Lewis Lead Remover! Works like a champ on a couple of revolvers I have that lead up some.
@@TargetSuite Glad I could help. Yes, Brownells has them and it looks like they may have them under their own name as Brownells Lewis Lead Remover
Butche's Bore Shine is made for removiing lead, copper etc. I've used that for years. I got it at Sportsmans Warehouse, but probably sold in most gun stores.@@frankbrowning328
Glad to see you back George!
Thanks! It sure feel good to post again.
@@TargetSuiteas far as lead removal. I have a Lewis Lead Remover kit from Brownells. Mines a .45 Cal Pistol & Revolver kit. It did a fantastic job. Maybe they still have them.
I always enjoy your video's, and the bore scope seems to work well. We had a farm pond north of the border, which I miss, but in the winter when it froze and snow, we always had a problem with wild mink taking the fish under the ice in winter. They went back to the woods in spring.
Thanks for your comment. We are going to have problems with otters for sure. Just a few years ago we thought it was fun to see the occasional otter or otter carcass. But today they have become a real nuisance and are particularly hard on large mature bass. We will be after them as well as the Beavers with a vengeance.
Are you using copper gas checks on your cast bullets?
Using gas checks on my lead cast bullets, I have had a lot less lead build-up in barrels.
I use Lewis lead removers (brass patches). I get them at Brownell's. They are the best way I have found to remove lead in barrels. Dip them in Kroil. It helps.
Good luck, and keep the videos coming.
Thanks for your comment. Yes, these bullets do have gas checks. This is the worst I have ever experienced it may be because I was alternating copper and lead. I'll find out!
@TargetSuite Are your cast bullets pure lead? If so, you might try adding some wheel weights to get a harder result.
These are hard cast bullets from Cast Performance. Highly "alloyed"
Pro Shot makes a lead cleaning cloth. You can cut whatever size you want out of it and run it through the bore like a patch on a jag. Wilson Combat bore polish is your friend too. My hatred for cleaning lead is what keeps me shooting jacketed bullets.
Great seeing yea again! Thanks and take care
Thanks for watching!
So glad to see you back!! Thanks for the video and updates.
You are welcome. It's good to see you commenting!
I have a bunch of spare barrel band screws for this exact issue. They just seem to eventually snap under recoil
Yay a new video from George and that 'other guy' from Target Suite. I have had good luck with Kroil to remove lead, with a bit of time letting it soak in. However I do not have a bore scope so I am not sure if the barrels I have cleaned with it were totally clean or not.
Glad to see you back on the range George. Hope all is well.
We're doing great. Thanks, Keith!
Another great video George The bore scope tool is really cool. I love the simple design of the Marlins. I have been reading the comments. I am a little bit jealous of your following Haha
Don't worry, Chris. I believe your following is going to grow leaps and bounds. Good luck!
Thanks I am really looking forward to the Target suite shot show video. @@TargetSuite
Paper patch the castings, roll in valve compound, and fire full tilt loads.
I like how you left some snags in the pond for fish cover. As for the lead; I have used Barnes CR-10 Bore Solvent for lead and copper. I don't know about cast lead but it gets the lead outta my .22's.
Great suggestion. Thanks!
Nice to hear from you, I was just thinking about your Pond before you you brought it it nice timing 👍!
😎🤙
👍
Good to see u back! I was getting concerned. Great video as always
Thanks! I appreciate that!
👍😊 I see you are well. The bore scope yep I want one. I’ve been using J-B bore cleaning compound but I haven’t scoped it, looks better to me.
Welcome back, welcome back, welcome back
Thanks. I think I said it in another comment, it really felt good posting again!
I had some heavy leading in my Mossberg 500 slug barrel that a phosphor bronze brush wouldn't budge. I soaked a patch with Hoppe's No. 9 and put on a jag and ssssllllooowwwwllllyyyyy pushed the jag through the barrel. Followed up with a dry patch and you could see the lead on the patch. A little more brushing, some soaked patches, dry patches and pristine.
Excellent!
I sure enjoy your videos!
Thanks! I appreciate that!
Go to one size bigger brush to clean the lead and a lot of scrubbing.
I have regularly been checking your channel, to make sure that RUclips hadn’t unsubscribed me.
Thanks for your patience and persistence!
My new ruger marlin 1894 44 has just done the same exact thing after about 30 rounds.
I'm sorry you had the same problem. But Ruger is aware of the issue, and a fix is as simple as a phone call to customer service.
@@TargetSuite will it be a better screw? Did they change harden it more? I just don’t want another frail screw again and waste ammo to find out if it’ll hold.
Sorry for the late reply. My new screw has worked perfectly and I think it's because it's a little softer and not as brittle.
I have had good luck with using a proper fitting brass jag with a tight patch and no9. Working it back and forth vigorously to get lead out.
Try Lewis lead removing cloth wrapped on a bronze bore brush for the lead in the barrel
One suggestion I have for leading concerns how to prevent it. I shoot a few jacketed bullets after shooting some cast bullets. That generally helps prevent major lead fouling. You might try shooting a bunch of jacketed rounds to see if that would force the lead out.
Unfortunately the shooting of jacketed bullets after shooting lead slugs will just burnish that lead into the bire making it harder to remove the lead deposits.
For leading a long soak in Kroil will help loosen things up then the chore boy trick you used. Otherwise I guess reduce the amount of lead by using a different lead alloy and gas checks especially in rifles. No idea if that Fiocchi ammo is meant to be fired out of a rifle, it obviously doesn't hurt but I'm thinking of a few specific for rifle designed bullets from Hornady and they don't have exposed lead. I don't know if that matters. I've heard of and tried following up a revolver range session with a few total jacketed bullets but I honestly have no idea if that really helps or is a placebo; I cannot even remember where I heard that "tip" from. I limit the lead out of my lever guns just based on my experience with revolvers it seems like it'd be horrendous to clean. Thanks for the videos as always.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching! I kind of exasperated the leading problem just for the video, full disclosure😉 but, I didn't anticipate it being quite so hard to get out. Thanks for all your input.
Great video as usual
I have used Shooter's Choice Lead Remover in my revolvers and Marlin lever guns. Just follow the instructions on the label to make your lead deposits vanish.
Thanks. I'll be getting some of that.
Looks like there's several solvents made for lead and copper removal, from peoples comments. I use Butches Bore Shine, it works too.
... I find the rounds with flat faced meplats tend to hang up the action more if you short stroke the lever
Great video!!
It's interesting that the screw snapped. Going to have to keep an eye on it to see if it is a material or engineering deficiency issue. I wonder if it was caused by the heavier loads of the 240s. It's also GREAT that Ruger responded quickly to fix the issue with parts and specs to ensure the gun is reassembled correctly and safely.
I like the leather workbench pads, IMHO I believe they are better than the off the shelf rubber blocks that are currently available.
The Teslong Fold and Focus is really nice especially the focus part. I'm going to have to get one to augment my other scope.
I never thought about wrapping brass wool over the brass cleaning brush. I'm going to have to try that.
Bolt guns and AR platforms are relatively easy to take apart and clean, but the lever actions have always been a pain for me to take apart; until a experienced lever action enthusiast showed me how to do it. He explained all the parts and how they work together. The time he spent sharing his knowledge was priceless.
The pond is on its way to becoming a great place.
Whatever happened to that little utility ammo hauling truck?
Keep the videos coming they are a wealth of info!
The military mule is still in the barn in need of some steering work.
The barrel band screw on my Remington made 336 broke in that same way. The notch in the barrel and mag tube were not machined to line up right.
hello george , to get the lead out , ultra fine steelwool oooo . .used it as a cotton wap on a cleaning rod . wil do the work take care of the crown , in the blackpowder world they use that , and you get also a littler smoother barrel if you can safe use it to get rust from bleuing its safe if used once or so , and copper wool is also a option copper ceaning pads for kitchen use
Great! Thanks!
Yep, that's what I found, probably on RUclips a long time ago, Chore Boy copper scrubbing pads, cheap too. I use in conjunction with those a solvent called Butches Bore Shine
That’s a really nice bore scope you got there George. Some folks will tell you to blast the lead out with full bore jacketed rounds, that doesn’t work, it just irons the lead down in the grooves lol. Lead out with some chore bore strands wrapped around a bronze brush and lots of elbow grease. Took me awhile to get the lead out of a revolver once before I started powder coating my cast bullets. Since I started PCing I haven’t had any more issues. Glad you got some water in the pond 👍🏻 🎣
I would also add, slugging one's bore to see what size it is, and making sure the cast lead bullets used as sized appropriately, and if powerful enough, that a decent copper gas check is used. If that's too much work, at least consider using powdercoated cast bullets to reduce or eliminate leading.
The greatest cause is hot gas blow-by, by incorrectly sized bullets and/or pressures too high without gas checks or good powdercoating.
@georgiaboy4410 Thanks for the tips! And, amen on getting some rain!
I appreciate your comment. These bullets from cast performance our coded and have gas checks. I suspect the velocity is just too high. But, I will double check the fit in the bore. I may need to go back to Montana bullet Works bullets that are oversized.
@@TargetSuite Slug the bore see what it's running. From what I've read, if your groove is .429, a cast lead bullet would run .431. Hardcast probably .430 due to less obturation upon firing. Gas check and lube works plenty well, but probably not as well as good powdercoat to prevent leading. If this is Microgroove, then slightly different rules apply about oversizing cast lead, usually less oversize is necessary because of shallow groove.
The new Marlins don't have microgroove rifling, thankfully!
Heard of people firing 3-4 copper jacketed bullets behind shooting lead and it seems to clean quite of a bit of it out. I don’t shoot lead so not entirely sure of the limitations of this. I got a Microgroove Browning B92 recently that I had no idea the history of, so I just ran the bronze brush back and forth with solvent til the resistance drastically decreased.
Great gun. Congratulations on the doe harvest. Appreciate the demo. Happy hunting.
Thanks!
Bore tech copper removing solvent lookhas worked and everything I have used it on and it does a great job the also have a lead remover as well
Thanks!
I have the teslong bore scope (not like yours) and it works like a charm. Loving it.
👍
What scope do you have on the Marlin 44mag " short video " ?
That's a 50's vintage Weaver K2.5.
@@TargetSuite thank you!
Ain’t getting older a hoot George? I’ve gotten dirty, been in for work and broken in a couple spots myself, lol. But I figure that any day still sucking atmosphere, not staring at the bottom of the grass roots, is a gift from God! Good to hear from you again brother! Stay well!
Edit: Do you use gas checks on those cast bullets?
Yes, those bullets come from Cast Performance with gas checks installed and a clear coat of some sort.
Great to see a new video see you soon
Thanks! You too!
I have a Ruger Marlin .357 with a 1.5x Burris scope on it.
Shooting Federal 158 gr soft points, my 50 yard groups hover around the inch for 3 rounds. 100 yards she goes from 1 & 3/8ths to 2 inches. Those 158s chrono from my carbine at 1760 fps.
The fit and finish of mine are better than any of the JMs I've owned or handled. I know... Blasphemy! But its true nonetheless.
The only objections I have are the plasic rear sight element and front sight base. Both are easily and unnoticeably replaceable. Also, the elimination of mounting holes for a receiver sight. Not all of us want Skinners. But these are minor.
Kicks and giggles. Not a lot of kick. WHOLE BUNCH of giggles!
65,200 +++ Great Job !!!
Thanks!
Birchwood Casey makes a lead remover cloth that I’ve cut to size and used with a jag to great success on removing lead in the barrel from cast bullets.
Thanks!
Yep, I've used that cloth on my 1873 revolver cylinder, did good. My barrels I use Butches Bore Sine solvent for lead removal with Chore Boy copper mesh on a cleaning brush, That cleans em up nicely.
I wouldn't use lead remover cloth on any blued gun as it will take the bluing off without any effort.
You might try some Lead Out. Also, another person suggested using powder coated bullets which is an excellent solution. You can get more speed without leading.
Did your cast bullets have gas checks? Just curious if they left that much lead even with gas checks.
Yes. Those were gas check bullets from cast performance. They were also coated with a clear coat
@@TargetSuite thanks, I was always curious about how well gas checked bullets and poly coated bullets stopped leading. I have a Winchester 94 .44 mag that needs de-leading as well.