I agree they are spigots where the head was flattened and domed. Getting them apart is fairly easy with a countersinking approach. I was wondering if anybody has tried drilling a small hole through the spigot and using some molten pop metal. Clip the tray and body together pour the molten metal down the hole and fill to level with the tray. Then, quickly use a concave tool to form the head before it sets.
Hey, just found Your channel, am I late?!, You've given Me an idea about painting, but then I've remembered, I've gotta replace the grill on My Austin j30/412, thanks though, informative.
You're correct about the fact that there were no rivets as such but just a post that was crushed down to form what looks like a rivet head however you can buy replacement rivets that just need a hole in the post and then glue them in. They look pretty much like the original.
On a lot of heavy machinery there are ID tags that have tap in rivers with a knurled shaft or post! I am going to obtain some of those and drill out Corgi posts and then tap knurled rivet doen into the drilled hole! It should end up looking pretty dang close to original! Just wanted to share my idea!
The originals where made by pressing down on the post with a tool that turned at fairly high speeds causing the round head that is shaped like a rivet. Your idea sounds good and should work.
@@WillyDahm Thanks for the encouragement. I got some Rivets from Alan at Diecast Recoveries that have a retro Corgi looking rivet head but they are very soft and will have to be glued in. The ones I aforementioned are mild Steel. Now I just gotta find where to get them but hey! That's half the fun sometimes. Thanks again. JP.
@@WillyDahm Willy! I just ordered some Stainless Steel "Drive Rivets" The dimensions should work for drilling out post and tapping in rivet. They are knurled so we will see. Just wanted to let you know they are out there. JP.
If you have dip stripped your vehicle, and don't remove the base, do you run the risk of the metal carroding from the inside as you can't recoat it? I am just starting on this and would be happy to leave the bases alone if that's possible.
@@WillyDahm well taken fella (in spanish we call it "buena onda"), that was the idea (absolutely not to offend or being rude); and don't worrie, you're not alone, the only Ferrari I can afford (and like) is the F50 cabriolet... and about "Gone in 60 seconds", I have the *"Eleanor"* ... but 1:18 only 😂😉 P.S.: the Ferrari is a Bburago, also 1:18 😊
I think they were called spiggots.Remember looking at a Dinky blueprint and the name spigot was mentioned.The casting metal protruded 4mm or so beyond the base plate and an upsetting tool spun it round to flatten it out.I think it was similar to spinning a nail head.Good video though some good advice.
I've restored a few old corgi and Matchbox Super Kings cars at first I was planing on fixing the base plates back on with milliput but I don't think that's strong enough. Whats the best glue to use for fixing base plates?
I use on the Corgi and Dinky's a J-B Weld in the tubes. I mix them 50% to 50% and just dab on the end of the pillar so it's not seen and press. It wipes off if needed. About 12 hrs drying time.
Hi Jim, It is the same for Spot On cars. Any that have screws on the bottom plate are refurbished. Some have a rivet on one side as the other side is a slide in tab. The rivet is the same as Dinky or Corgi toys. They pressed the post with a machine to form the rivet. I have very few Spot On cars but wish I had more. Willy
How do you replace tires for Corgi? Not early Corgi which had tube-like rubber tires, but the rubber tires from mid- to late sixties which had threads on them and Corgi written on side? Does anyone make replacement tires?
Diecast Recoveries. Alan has the "tyres" tires you want. Website takes a little patience but he has them, I just got a parts order including tires. Good Luck.
I seem to remember in engineering college being shown a similar film as a demo of orbital riveting. The rivet head isn't formed by hammering but by a tool spinning eccentrically forming the head from the alloy post. This wouldn't damage the body like hammering would.
I believe you're correct. From some of the early footage of the riveting process by Corgi I have seen a revolving tool. Hammering would have not worked. Many think the rivet is like a compression rivet pressed into a drill hole so when they drill the head off they are surprised to find no hole but a stem. This is because the rivet is a stem and is pressed with a orbital tool as you suggested.
Rehearsal Pete above is correct that it is a tool spinning eccentrically forming the head from the alloy post. The problem of drilling off the entire rivet head to repair a car is that the post is very hard to drill afterwards. Many damage the post trying to drill it or drill a hole and glue a rivet or pop rivet head in which looks awful. This method ruins the look of the car. If the car has no glass one should try and restore the car without removing the rivets. If the glass is broken drill the rivets until the plate pops off leaving a slight head. This looks better and the plate clips back on and looks better.
The problem with a good 'clip back on' is you'd be lucky to get 1 in 5 to do that and also on many models some pressure is required to close the components in the last 1mm or so, without a fresh rivet only the glue itself is holding the car together and you have to hold or clamp it while it dries. Some use self tappers or tap a thread which works well but if you use a good rivet AND a strong glue of choice you solve all the 'look' and pressure problems with a correct method of re-engineering the base plate fixings simply that also suits a diecast model.
no they're not, I doubt if the makers ever thought the models would be restored 50 years later! I had one or two post drills go badly wrong, but a metal sleeve around the post can fix it, maybe better to stick to the rivet/epoxy resin way :-)
I started to restore my old batmobile and I don't know how to replace the rivets and there is no youtubers to show how they do it ! Is that a secret ? I think I will use screws
Bruno! Diecast Recoveries has cast rivets that are in diff sizes that can be installed after drilling with correct drill size. The heads are cast to look like original post head . I have just got some and am going to try. Also purchased some Drive Rivets that are knurled shank and can be tapped in and should secure chassis to body. Waiting for them to get here by mail so have not tried them yet. Anyway hope I was of some help. J.,
Glue base plate with JB weld standard. or 2 part Aradite.5min drying time They make jb weld quick dry 5 min but found other project dont always hold. You can dremel cut off rivet posts and place base back on and use fine drill and make small hole 1mm about 4mm deep. Then use a small self 1.5mm tapping screw.about 5mm long. Match drill size and hole though to suit small self tapping screw. Thinking if one could find a very small rivet as sold for repairs to dinky and corgi if long enough could be glued into the hole drilled once passed through base plate. In process of refurbing Aston Martin 261 so will see. Also have to reseat new suspension unit to base plate and re rivet. No instructions online so far.
Thank you Willy! Greetings from Italy
Just started restoring dinky and corgi great info i do that just drill out once repainted pop back on fantastic thank you
Wow Thank you for this informative and creative informational video
So nice of you
I agree they are spigots where the head was flattened and domed. Getting them apart is fairly easy with a countersinking approach.
I was wondering if anybody has tried drilling a small hole through the spigot and using some molten pop metal. Clip the tray and body together pour the molten metal down the hole and fill to level with the tray. Then, quickly use a concave tool to form the head before it sets.
Hey, just found Your channel, am I late?!, You've given Me an idea about painting, but then I've remembered, I've gotta replace the grill on My Austin j30/412, thanks though, informative.
You're correct about the fact that there were no rivets as such but just a post that was crushed down to form what looks like a rivet head however you can buy replacement rivets that just need a hole in the post and then glue them in. They look pretty much like the original.
On a lot of heavy machinery there are ID tags that have tap in rivers with a knurled shaft or post! I am going to obtain some of those and drill out Corgi posts and then tap knurled rivet doen into the drilled hole! It should end up looking pretty dang close to original! Just wanted to share my idea!
The originals where made by pressing down on the post with a tool that turned at fairly high speeds causing the round head that is shaped like a rivet. Your idea sounds good and should work.
@@WillyDahm Thanks for the encouragement. I got some Rivets from Alan at Diecast Recoveries that have a retro Corgi looking rivet head but they are very soft and will have to be glued in. The ones I aforementioned are mild Steel. Now I just gotta find where to get them but hey! That's half the fun sometimes. Thanks again. JP.
@@WillyDahm Willy! I just ordered some Stainless Steel "Drive Rivets" The dimensions should work for drilling out post and tapping in rivet. They are knurled so we will see. Just wanted to let you know they are out there. JP.
If you have dip stripped your vehicle, and don't remove the base, do you run the risk of the metal carroding from the inside as you can't recoat it? I am just starting on this and would be happy to leave the bases alone if that's possible.
Warm water and washing up liquid and wash it well. This eliminates the acid. You can dry it with a hair blower.
@@WillyDahm thank you that's helpful.
I am planing about making the whole Dink toy cars by my self .
This fella looks and sounds as the bad guy of *Gone in 60 seconds* 🤔 I wander if the taste for cars is in the family 😊 🚕🚗🚘🚔🚙🚖
I'll take that as a compliment..."thanks" Only into Dinky and Corgi cars as I can't afford the Ferrari.
@@WillyDahm well taken fella (in spanish we call it "buena onda"), that was the idea (absolutely not to offend or being rude); and don't worrie, you're not alone, the only Ferrari I can afford (and like) is the F50 cabriolet... and about "Gone in 60 seconds", I have the *"Eleanor"* ... but 1:18 only 😂😉
P.S.: the Ferrari is a Bburago, also 1:18 😊
Keep safe....Cheers willy
I think they were called spiggots.Remember looking at a Dinky blueprint and the name spigot was mentioned.The casting metal protruded 4mm or so beyond the base plate and an upsetting tool spun it round to flatten it out.I think it was similar to spinning a nail head.Good video though some good advice.
Thanks for the info ...very interesting.
Thats exactly what I have done for years, tapping the posts is a too much trouble, often I dont have to use any glue.
I've restored a few old corgi and Matchbox Super Kings cars at first I was planing on fixing the base plates back on with milliput but I don't think that's strong enough. Whats the best glue to use for fixing base plates?
I use on the Corgi and Dinky's a J-B Weld in the tubes. I mix them 50% to 50% and just dab on the end of the pillar so it's not seen and press. It wipes off if needed. About 12 hrs drying time.
Interesting solution, will remember that when I'm doing a restoration.
I'm glad this video helped your restoration methods.
Could you do a video on dinky axle clips how to make if you do it that way
Do you mean the spring loaded pieces that hold the axles in place?
I was told a pop rivet would work to fix an action figures leg in the knee joint area. How could I do that?
You would have to send a picture of the action figure Knee joint for me to comment. If you want to email: collinsdahm@telus.net and I'll take a look.
Hi Willy thanks for that very interesting..do you think it would be the same for spot on cars. Jim
Hi Jim, It is the same for Spot On cars. Any that have screws on the bottom plate are refurbished. Some have a rivet on one side as the other side is a slide in tab. The rivet is the same as Dinky or Corgi toys. They pressed the post with a machine to form the rivet. I have very few Spot On cars but wish I had more. Willy
I prefer to drill and tap, it gives me the option to change the colour and add modifications
How do you replace tires for Corgi? Not early Corgi which had tube-like rubber tires, but the rubber tires from mid- to late sixties which had threads on them and Corgi written on side? Does anyone make replacement tires?
If you go to Ebay there is plenty of sellers of all Corgi and Dinky tyres. I use dreamgirl1967 sometimes.
try tony on ebay he is the best for tyres most kind from 8mm up wards dreamgirl is for metals such has bumpers etc
Diecast Recoveries. Alan has the "tyres" tires you want. Website takes a little patience but he has them, I just got a parts order including tires. Good Luck.
I seem to remember in engineering college being shown a similar film as a demo of orbital riveting. The rivet head isn't formed by hammering but by a tool spinning eccentrically forming the head from the alloy post. This wouldn't damage the body like hammering would.
I believe you're correct. From some of the early footage of the riveting process by Corgi I have seen a revolving tool. Hammering would have not worked. Many think the rivet is like a compression rivet pressed into a drill hole so when they drill the head off they are surprised to find no hole but a stem. This is because the rivet is a stem and is pressed with a orbital tool as you suggested.
Rehearsal Pete above is correct that it is a tool spinning eccentrically forming the head from the alloy post.
The problem of drilling off the entire rivet head to repair a car is that the post is very hard to drill afterwards. Many damage the post trying to drill it or drill a hole and glue a rivet or pop rivet head in which looks awful. This method ruins the look of the car. If the car has no glass one should try and restore the car without removing the rivets. If the glass is broken drill the rivets until the plate pops off leaving a slight head. This looks better and the plate clips back on and looks better.
The problem with a good 'clip back on' is you'd be lucky to get 1 in 5 to do that and also on many models some pressure is required to close the components in the last 1mm or so, without a fresh rivet only the glue itself is holding the car together and you have to hold or clamp it while it dries. Some use self tappers or tap a thread which works well but if you use a good rivet AND a strong glue of choice you solve all the 'look' and pressure problems with a correct method of re-engineering the base plate fixings simply that also suits a diecast model.
thanks, mystery solved! you can use black panhead screws they use for modern diecasts, if you can find them.. :-)
+SLOWPAW STEVE T Yes ..but the posts are not easy to drill and put a thread in.
no they're not, I doubt if the makers ever thought the models would be restored 50 years later! I had one or two post drills go badly wrong, but a metal sleeve around the post can fix it, maybe better to stick to the rivet/epoxy resin way :-)
+SLOWPAW STEVE T I agree
I started to restore my old batmobile and I don't know how to replace the rivets and there is no youtubers to show how they do it ! Is that a secret ? I think I will use screws
I don't use screws as one needs watch making equipment to get it right. Thats just me though!
Bruno! Diecast Recoveries has cast rivets that are in diff sizes that can be installed after drilling with correct drill size. The heads are cast to look like original post head
. I have just got some and am going to try. Also purchased some Drive Rivets that are knurled shank and can be tapped in and should secure chassis to body. Waiting for them to get here by mail so have not tried them yet. Anyway hope I was of some help. J.,
Thanks for the help
I also glue the baseplates
What glue do you use?
Glue base plate with JB weld standard. or 2 part Aradite.5min drying time They make jb weld quick dry 5 min but found other project dont always hold. You can dremel cut off rivet posts and place base back on and use fine drill and make small hole 1mm about 4mm deep. Then use a small self 1.5mm tapping screw.about 5mm long. Match drill size and hole though to suit small self tapping screw. Thinking if one could find a very small rivet as sold for repairs to dinky and corgi if long enough could be glued into the hole drilled once passed through base plate. In process of refurbing Aston Martin 261 so will see. Also have to reseat new suspension unit to base plate and re rivet. No instructions online so far.
J&B Weld
Can you check out some of my videos of my Dinky toys collection?
Sure I can