As always, thanks so much for all your questions this week! If you have any burning tech questions or would just like to hear Doddy talk on a subject of your interest, shoot us an email on hellotech@gmbn.com
Hello I was wondering if you could make it series where are you explained The differences of items made by one company and the competition (eg Rock shocks Pike and the other models)
GMBN Tech doddy I've just got some really cheap roxshox pike u turn for my retro commuter (I'm lucky enough to have a off road commute) gt idrive xcr 1999 and I want to give them a service any tips also how do you set the sag on them?
What do you think about Cane Creek Angleset with the 1.5 degree option?And could you do a video on different types of linkages and their pros and cons.
Hi Doddy I was wondering whether you could explain the difference between the rockshox rear shocks like monarch vs monarch plus vs super deluxe etc. Also could you explain the pros and cons of a piggyback?
GMBN Tech you said that the E 13 cassette has a smaller range then the Sram eagle ( 11:13 ) however, technically speaking, sram eagle has 500% range while e thirteen has 511%
I think you got the tech level spot on. Mountain bike components are pretty complex things at times and need to be explained properly. I love this channel, great work.
He was legendary for responding to e-mail questions. He politely answered questions (even stupid ones) that he had probably answered dozens of times before and almost immediately (and I heard he got a hundred or more a day). Even now when I have an obscure tech question and have to "google" for answers I think this would have been easier and faster to just ask Sheldon.
My bike and riding falls somewhere in the middle ground between GCN/MTB type of stuff so I often don't have much (or any) of personal experiences to compare with what you're talking about on those channels, but this kind of detailed and serious approach to answering questions deserves a huge round of applause. Keep up the good work! If I have any suggestion, In the gear ratios question I think it would be good to mention easiest way to see how any given gear setup would work on a given bike is to divide number of the teeth at the crank by the number of the cogs, the result is number of rotations of the wheel per one rotation of the pedals. It's obviously leaves out a lot of factors you go into, but it is enough when somebody is wondering about how something would work on his/her bike. Cheers!
Wow! I'm a roadie, and stumbled across this by accident. I just geeked out on all the numbers (I'm a Maths grad). And have just subscribed to this channel, even though I don't ride mtb (yet)! Nice to hear Doddy going into so much depth, rather than dumbing it down or avoiding the detail like some would.
Super glad to see this. I'm planning an upgrade from a square taper BB and old 3x8 XT drivechain to a SRAM NX Eagle DUB. Understanding the differences in BB and an insight into compatibility is really helpful. Cheers and much love from Trowbridge. (About 7 miles from you guys).
I love the GMBN videos where there is objectivity and less brand sponsorship involved. I get it that we have bills to pay sometimes though. Cheers from Germany!
ASK GMBN Tech has got to be the best bike segment on RUclips i'm always learning something new sometimes things I wouldn't have thought to ask. Heck-yes Doddy number 1!
I always learn something new here like that head angle measurement method. I always use my phone's camera before with an app that measures the angle of anything you have on picture but never knew steerer tube will give the most accurate results. Thanks Doddy!
your knowledge and ability to explain it is amazing Doddy ! I love those small hints on details that others don`t mention. This makes the difference - even in presentation. Thanks Doddy...
I accidentally ran a resin and metallic combo in my front brake after a hurried pad change at the local trails car park once. Was amazingly good. Then I tried full metallic to only have horrible squealing from the front and what felt like pulsing. Would switch from running resin in the front back to a combo in a heart beat if I knew it wasn't doing any harm. Will always run metallic rears though. I just like the power of them.
Doddy, the reason for easiest changing the back gears is that chain is under no load ever. (mech is down), but at front is always at "load", upper side...
love ye doddy ye helping a lot of people everyday your a working class hero who would have thought that little spud was to remain sooo dedicated to his sport that he would make the effort to learn all about it and share that knowledge with the world GOOD EGG!!! doddy well impressed cheers.
Just a heads up on upgrading to Eagle 50T. My LBS are still waiting for a mech hangar that will replace the existing shimano direct fit one on my Rocky Mtn Altitude. It’s longer in length to handle to jump to the 50T. Check with your bike manufacturer / LBS that they can get hold of one before dropping the cash.
Regarding dropper post on a hardtail. I fitted one on mine a year and a half ago. It’s made the biggest difference to my riding style and skills! I’d never go out with out one on my bike ever again. Best investment ever.
Dropper post is the *new* white sliced bread. Screw what anyone says, sure you can bog your seat through your legs and get behind it and being able to drop it 4-6" and just get it out of the way is a complete mtb game changer. They generally weigh a pound so you can compensate other places if you're worried about that or you can just ride your bike and it will change the way you ride and be exponentially more comfortable when you don't want the seat in the way. Yes they're not inexpensive but after riding one of my 3 bikes with one, I put them on all of them in the following couple weeks. Its that much of a difference. It's great tech for sure.
Loving GMBN Tech..and Doddy does a great job of presenting, and explaining things. Also, I have a hardtail, and could not live with out a dropper seatpost.
8:03 So far only I have tried was Jagwire Pro & Shimano XTR In Shimano SP41 housing, but XTR wore out the coating after few rides creating a very rough surface, I installed Jagwire problem solved, but I see some other people don't have this issue, but it cable routing makes a difference on wear too. But I have not tried Cilovation yet.
Loving this new Tech channel! I'm newer to working on my bike and have recently upgraded my old square tapered crank BB to a HollowTech II crank and BB. So I loved learning about the different bottom brackets. Now I have officially caught the bug and love taking my bike apart and upgrading it. I also recently upgraded from a cheap coil spring fork to my first air fork, which was a bit of a ordeal trying to get my crown race off, but finally managed to get it off. Loving the air fork and new cranks! Just curious if there is a "sister" version of this for headsets? My current bike has a caged bearing setup and am just curious if there is an easy upgrade option to cartridge style bearings or if I am going to always have to use caged bearings. Maybe a idea for a future show, of course assuming there is content. One last thing, maybe you could recommend some good "reading material" for the "beginner wrencher" to help build a good foundation for good bike repair. There seems to be lots of books out there on the topic, but I don't want to waste my money buying a book which might have outdated information/standards or only cover 75% of the information needed to work on a modern bike. Thanks Doddy.
My bike (Giant Talon 3) came with a cheap Suntour XCM which isn't even rated for anything more than "leisure cross country", my local trails are anything but what I would consider "leisure". I didn't throw on anything special because with a straight steerer tube my options were really limited, but the air fork was definitely an upgrade FOR ME, due to the fact that I can easily set sag and unlike my cheaper fork I have a little bit of control over rebound. Not to mention that was probably the weakest component on my bike in terms of durability aside from the cranks. It had alot of play in the stanchions.
Thanks for answering my question! Hope you'd answer this question too: my bike is an aggressive enduro hardtail with a 160 mm fork. At the back though it has a 135x10 quick release system. Now this system is not recommended for downhill as it is flexy, but if i get a good quality skewer like say, an xtr skewer that has a great clamping force will the bike handle hard downhill or will I risk breaking smtg like the axle.
The reason Front shifting is harder than Rear shifting is that the Front derailleur shifts the top (the tight side) of the chain. The bottom of the chain is always loose, so it's much easier.
Cool shout out to Sheldon Brown. I learned a ton of stuff from him on his site while he was still around. Amazing man. I think he would love to see how far bikes have come in the last few years.
I made my self a display set-up for my bike in my man cave which include putting the bike in a repair stand clamp (very lightly clamped with a fiber cloth in the clamp) on the top tube. Winter here in Canada last about a minimum of 5 month. Do you think leaving the bike on the stand clamp on the top tube for a extended period of time can put unnecessary stress on the frame and damage it? It a aluminum full suspension trail bike!
Doddy, first of all, great video (as always). However, when it comes to the comparison of the E13 and Eagle cassette, I think you missed a pretty important point: a sprocket with 9 teeth will have considerably higher friction than a 10 tooth one (which in turn already suffers from significantly higher friction compared to a 11t one). Therefore, even though the E13 technically has a larger range (511%) than the Eagle, I'm pretty sure that efficiency adjusted, the Eagle would come out on top. I think this is an important aspect to note when it comes to such small sprocket sizes.
Andrew Dodd Well I mean we all do mistakes don't we? ;) Oh and thanks for the explanation ond the BB's cleard up alot of things and I would really like to get a video on different crank systems. Like hollowtech, hollowtech 2 etc.
Sumo's'Enduro right on, seems like eagle may be nice for xc, I really like the e-13 for enduro. The jumps are reasonable, and the drivetrain is more compact.
austin ritz why would the e13 option be better for enduro? Its a few grams lighter than eagle and since xc weightweenies will see the 50g diffrence it would make sense. Also the gear ratios are actually similar to old school 2x10 or 2x11 with a 34t chainring
Calvin Pessl I like the slightly more compact drivetrain- you can run a smaller chainring in the front for the same ratio. Gives better clearance. Also, I like the 11 vs 12 speeds because I can get through the gears faster and the ratios are adequate. I always preferred 2x for xc because of the closer ratios. That's why I like the eagle for a 1x xc setup, the ratios are slightly closer so it's easier to get my cadence where I want it.
I dispute the idea that the original square taper threaded BB tended to fall apart and had 'crappy bearings'. Maybe crappy knock-offs did, but I NEVER had such issues with XT or Phil or SKF or TA or Suntour or Campy. In fact, the small diameter steel axle allowed for *larger* bearings that were *more* durable, and while the aluminum crank might re-shape, I put tens of thousands of miles on one, re-installed several times, and the crank continued to be just fine. It was marginally heavier, but was plenty stiff (they are still used by keirin racers), and plenty durable. My only complaint is the old style lockring that used the easy-to-slip BB wrench, but Phil BBs had no such issue. Oh, and no creaking.
I ride a Custom fully rigid 26" with a high bottom bracket. Sort of a Cross Country/ Trials bike. I would never use a Suspension Fork on this particular bike. The dropper post is the best upgrade I could ever make.
Hia Doddy, I have a standard square tapered 68/113 Bottom Bracket. I want to convert to external BB/24mm axel type however a couple of things are stumping me. 1) Does the axel width (i.e. not the diameter width but the width between the pedal and the crank side) become a factor..or, as I appear to have absorbed through some form of osmosis, have they standardised this at 73mm providing spacers to allow people with 68mm to make up the difference? 2) I would prefer not to have to upspec my Shimano FH-M756 VIA-M 9 speed to a whole new '2x11' compatible wheel/freehub and groupset...at the most I would consider going to 10 speed (maybe) as I could fit that to my existing freehub (I think). It's driving me nuts but I can't find anything out there I could use...have you any ideas or should I just be looking at an upgrade? or should I just cheapskate it and stock with a square taper (or something similar)? if so, what's the best option here
Hi Doddy. Great new channel, so good work on that :) Picking up on inner cables, what do you think about cable oilers such as the Middleburn ones. My friend runs them and swears blind by them, cant decide if I should go down the same route? He has externally routed cables, so a bit easy to locate whereas I have internally routed cables so more limited scope for positioning!....
I am opening a bike shop and workshop focusing on MTB in Nairobi, Kenya and I have seen your Park Tool kit! In the Park Tool catalogue there are loads of package kits from super comprehensive to a few bits, which one would you recommend for a new shop to start with?
Hey Doddy thanks for the heads up on the GMBN Tech Facebook page (who knew?) you should also mention that you have a GMBN Tech Instagram too. Thanks I'm loving this new channel.
I have a Diamond back Heist 1.0 2016. I am planning to upgrade my suspension forks but I’m not brave enough to take apart my bike ,therefore what steering tube does it have and what suspension should I get ? Keep up the great work 👍🏻💪🙏
Depends on how much you want to spend on new fork. Get some fork with air spring. Look's like a non tapered frame, so get straight steering tube. If you get tapered fork, you can use some special lower headset cup to use it, but it doesn't work with every frame.
7:53 I currently use Semimetallic TRP pads, they worked great so far, wear pretty slow, but I have used metallic and resin, metallic worked great, but resin was useless.
Great video, I’ve just bought a used carbon trek remedy 9.9 frame with what I now know (thanks to this vid) is a bb95 fitting, It’s a 2013 frame and when I looked on treks archives the original spec was a SRAM xo crankset 10 speed, so I went and bought a SRAM xo crankset without checking and it has a bb30 fitting 175mm 10 speed, please help! what are my options here?
I thought gear inches were the theoretical diameter of a wheel you would need in order to go the same distance each pedal revolution, assuming you had no gears (ie: a penny farthing or a unicycle). this is off by a factor of Pi from how far you go each pedal revolution.
I have a Norco Fluid 7.1with a sram nx 1x11 drive train. It is a 30 tooth front chain ring and 11-42 cassette. This is fine riding in the forest trails around where I live but in May I’m taking part in a charity ride across the South Downs so I have bought a race face 38T narrow wide to give me a bit more at the top end for long fast downhill sections. With this larger chain ring on its pulling the rear derailleur forward using the same chain. Bearing in mind I’m only using this chain ring fora 1off ride am I still best to invest in a longer chain or will it be ok over 60km and not damage the derailleur ?
0:40 happen with both Avilio & Acera cranks in maybe few months combined, absolutely horrible system, also the Shimano UN22 bottom brackets I managed to wear out in few days, it had horrible play and knocking, replacing that constantly would cost a insane amount of money, I only spend money on proper components. I now got Chris King installed on the old xc bike, it has angular contact bearings, it's absolutely necessary for bottom brackets, or it can wear in months.
Hi guys, I have a question for you about the bottom brackets. I have a on-one fatty trail, and it has a 100mm bottle bracket shell. But I'm struggling with the size of the crankset needed, it has external bb, so the existing x5 crank has a spindle of about 120mm. The problem is that they advertise cranks as suitable for 100mm bb shell, but they don't show the spindle length. I just bought a new crankset, labelled as 100mm bb shell, but too short! Do I need to look for 120mm bb shell cranks? Cheers Paul
#askgmbn do you have any suggestions on any 205mm eye to eye rear shock? If not, is it possible to shorten a 210mm eye to eye by cutting it or something like that? I was just wondering because the Specialized Camber has a 205 eye to eye and couldn't find any shocks.
Hi Doddy quick question for you, some of the bolts on my bike look like they have rust inside them not had the bike for that long wondered if you could help me out. Tried putting some muc off mo94 on but still out there. Ps keep up the good work 👍👍
I just bought a second hand bike to see what kind of mountain biking is for me. My friends recommended to buy a used bike first with the recommended parts. So I got a 2018 Alloy GT Zaskar 29er. On my first ride early this morning, my pedals fell off only 2.3 miles into the ride and found out that I had stripped the crank which is an SRAM 2x10 (sorry I'm new to this and do not know the terminologies) from what I can see in the crank it's a 38/24T Truvativ GPX. Since I'm planning to replace the crank anyway, can I upgrade to the SRAM NX Eagle 1x12 group set without buying anything else? My head is still spinning from a day's worth of searching the net. Any info would greatly be appreciated. Edit: what bottom bracket will the 2018 Zaskar alloy 29er accept?
I have a 32 tooth chainring at the moment and i'm looking to upgrade to a 34 tooth. What do I need to know about bolt circle diameters and what would fit my cranks, I have Shimano M8000 cranks
If by taking out the "quick release mech" you mean the skewer then no. Some hubs do have removable parts to allow them to be converted between QR, 20mm and 15mm axle types however.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
As always, thanks so much for all your questions this week! If you have any burning tech questions or would just like to hear Doddy talk on a subject of your interest, shoot us an email on hellotech@gmbn.com
Hello I was wondering if you could make it series where are you explained The differences of items made by one company and the competition (eg Rock shocks Pike and the other models)
GMBN Tech doddy I've just got some really cheap roxshox pike u turn for my retro commuter (I'm lucky enough to have a off road commute) gt idrive xcr 1999 and I want to give them a service any tips also how do you set the sag on them?
What do you think about Cane Creek Angleset with the 1.5 degree option?And could you do a video on different types of linkages and their pros and cons.
Hi Doddy I was wondering whether you could explain the difference between the rockshox rear shocks like monarch vs monarch plus vs super deluxe etc. Also could you explain the pros and cons of a piggyback?
GMBN Tech you said that the E 13 cassette has a smaller range then the Sram eagle ( 11:13 ) however, technically speaking, sram eagle has 500% range while e thirteen has 511%
I am absolutely loving this channel! I really like how you don't 'dumb' anything down.... very thorough and very concise. Well done!
I think you got the tech level spot on. Mountain bike components are pretty complex things at times and need to be explained properly. I love this channel, great work.
First time watcher. Unreal how good and concise the advice is without filler or drama.
Reminds me of reading mtbpro/mtb world, bitd. Well done sirs
Cheers Jamie! We hope you continue to enjoy the channel :)
Sheldon Brown was a bike tech wizard, he passed away in 2008. I think out of respect it warrants a mention.
i was supposed to write the same.
He was legendary for responding to e-mail questions. He politely answered questions (even stupid ones) that he had probably answered dozens of times before and almost immediately (and I heard he got a hundred or more a day). Even now when I have an obscure tech question and have to "google" for answers I think this would have been easier and faster to just ask Sheldon.
Amount of valuable insights and detailed nformation in this video blows any of GCN Q&A's out of the water. Good job.
My bike and riding falls somewhere in the middle ground between GCN/MTB type of stuff so I often don't have much (or any) of personal experiences to compare with what you're talking about on those channels, but this kind of detailed and serious approach to answering questions deserves a huge round of applause. Keep up the good work!
If I have any suggestion, In the gear ratios question I think it would be good to mention easiest way to see how any given gear setup would work on a given bike is to divide number of the teeth at the crank by the number of the cogs, the result is number of rotations of the wheel per one rotation of the pedals. It's obviously leaves out a lot of factors you go into, but it is enough when somebody is wondering about how something would work on his/her bike. Cheers!
Wow! I'm a roadie, and stumbled across this by accident.
I just geeked out on all the numbers (I'm a Maths grad). And have just subscribed to this channel, even though I don't ride mtb (yet)!
Nice to hear Doddy going into so much depth, rather than dumbing it down or avoiding the detail like some would.
RIP Sheldon. absolute legend of a guy. love the fact his page still has a 90s website feel
As a mtb tech nerd this is channel is great keep it up Doddy
Super glad to see this. I'm planning an upgrade from a square taper BB and old 3x8 XT drivechain to a SRAM NX Eagle DUB. Understanding the differences in BB and an insight into compatibility is really helpful. Cheers and much love from Trowbridge. (About 7 miles from you guys).
I love the GMBN videos where there is objectivity and less brand sponsorship involved. I get it that we have bills to pay sometimes though. Cheers from Germany!
the info provided in this vid is an absolute service to the community. i would happily pay for such in depth answers... :)
ASK GMBN Tech has got to be the best bike segment on RUclips i'm always learning something new sometimes things I wouldn't have thought to ask. Heck-yes Doddy number 1!
Very thorough and concise. Great job, Doddy!
I always learn something new here like that head angle measurement method. I always use my phone's camera before with an app that measures the angle of anything you have on picture but never knew steerer tube will give the most accurate results. Thanks Doddy!
There's a calculator which can calculate head angle and reach. :)
bikegeo.muha.cc/
Doing an amazing job doddy! really impressed by the research you actually do to answer all the questions in detail
This video was so dense with information that other videos will get caught in it's gravity well.
your knowledge and ability to explain it is amazing Doddy ! I love those small hints on details that others don`t mention. This makes the difference - even in presentation. Thanks Doddy...
When i see gmbn tech in my notifications i get really happy 😂
Great to hear Brandon! 🤘
Hahah lol me too! It is like a nice surprise
I accidentally ran a resin and metallic combo in my front brake after a hurried pad change at the local trails car park once. Was amazingly good. Then I tried full metallic to only have horrible squealing from the front and what felt like pulsing. Would switch from running resin in the front back to a combo in a heart beat if I knew it wasn't doing any harm. Will always run metallic rears though. I just like the power of them.
Great work Doddy. I look forward to your video on The Bottom Bracket Minefield -- which will be about 3 hours long I expect.
Hm. I could offer you an overview page in German...
www.innenlager.info/
Doddy, the reason for easiest changing the back gears is that chain is under no load ever. (mech is down), but at front is always at "load", upper side...
Nice shout out to the late and great Sheldon Brown Doddy. Great video and thank you for explaining BB's so well. I'll stick to my 24mm threaded BB.
Great info as always Doddy. What was the outcome on the Recon RL DIY spacers?
Bottoming out my 120s.
Keep up the great content.
love ye doddy ye helping a lot of people everyday your a working class hero who would have thought that little spud was to remain sooo dedicated to his sport that he would make the effort to learn all about it and share that knowledge with the world GOOD EGG!!! doddy well impressed cheers.
Love learning new info and specifics, especially as I gain mtb experience and upgrade parts. Thanks for adding this channel to the lineup!
Just a heads up on upgrading to Eagle 50T. My LBS are still waiting for a mech hangar that will replace the existing shimano direct fit one on my Rocky Mtn Altitude. It’s longer in length to handle to jump to the 50T.
Check with your bike manufacturer / LBS that they can get hold of one before dropping the cash.
Regarding dropper post on a hardtail. I fitted one on mine a year and a half ago. It’s made the biggest difference to my riding style and skills! I’d never go out with out one on my bike ever again. Best investment ever.
Dropper post is the *new* white sliced bread. Screw what anyone says, sure you can bog your seat through your legs and get behind it and being able to drop it 4-6" and just get it out of the way is a complete mtb game changer. They generally weigh a pound so you can compensate other places if you're worried about that or you can just ride your bike and it will change the way you ride and be exponentially more comfortable when you don't want the seat in the way. Yes they're not inexpensive but after riding one of my 3 bikes with one, I put them on all of them in the following couple weeks. Its that much of a difference. It's great tech for sure.
Doddy is amazing - making every detail clear and interesting. Love the channel
Cheers ed!
Just saw the top of the book in the background... the best riding book ever! I gave a copy to a 13 year old just recently.
this is a great channel. Keep it up, Doddy! Cheers
Doddy. Loving this channel. Thanks for the succinct explanations. Keep it up.
I had A loose square tapered on my fixie. hammered it in till it sit flush. squared back the hole and had no issued since.
Great program today Doddy !, and will be a great year watching and referring to your tech, thank you and good luck ! peace
Great explanation on BBs Doddy! I finally understand them a *tiny* bit more
I love this channel so much. Doddy is awesome, he his very neutral and factual which is hard to find from bike guys
Great video and awesome questions! Definitely helpful for an aspiring home mechanic
Wizard-tech Doddy! Really great videos with nice tech insights! Keep them coming!
Loving GMBN Tech..and Doddy does a great job of presenting, and explaining things. Also, I have a hardtail, and could not live with out a dropper seatpost.
Very informative will be watching this video again just to soak it all up well done 👍 Doddy . You Yangs Australia 👀
8:03 So far only I have tried was Jagwire Pro & Shimano XTR In Shimano SP41 housing, but XTR wore out the coating after few rides creating a very rough surface, I installed Jagwire problem solved, but I see some other people don't have this issue, but it cable routing makes a difference on wear too. But I have not tried Cilovation yet.
Great info and clarity on BB's...thank u..
Great content Dodster, really enjoying the channel!
Extremely valuable information esp. about the e thirteen cassette. Do you happen to know if it will work with _any_ 11 speed derailleur?
Loving this new Tech channel! I'm newer to working on my bike and have recently upgraded my old square tapered crank BB to a HollowTech II crank and BB. So I loved learning about the different bottom brackets. Now I have officially caught the bug and love taking my bike apart and upgrading it. I also recently upgraded from a cheap coil spring fork to my first air fork, which was a bit of a ordeal trying to get my crown race off, but finally managed to get it off. Loving the air fork and new cranks!
Just curious if there is a "sister" version of this for headsets? My current bike has a caged bearing setup and am just curious if there is an easy upgrade option to cartridge style bearings or if I am going to always have to use caged bearings. Maybe a idea for a future show, of course assuming there is content.
One last thing, maybe you could recommend some good "reading material" for the "beginner wrencher" to help build a good foundation for good bike repair. There seems to be lots of books out there on the topic, but I don't want to waste my money buying a book which might have outdated information/standards or only cover 75% of the information needed to work on a modern bike.
Thanks Doddy.
you mean downgraded to an air fork, coil forks are the best thing that i ever spend my money on my giant reign
My bike (Giant Talon 3) came with a cheap Suntour XCM which isn't even rated for anything more than "leisure cross country", my local trails are anything but what I would consider "leisure". I didn't throw on anything special because with a straight steerer tube my options were really limited, but the air fork was definitely an upgrade FOR ME, due to the fact that I can easily set sag and unlike my cheaper fork I have a little bit of control over rebound. Not to mention that was probably the weakest component on my bike in terms of durability aside from the cranks. It had alot of play in the stanchions.
Thanks for answering my question! Hope you'd answer this question too: my bike is an aggressive enduro hardtail with a 160 mm fork. At the back though it has a 135x10 quick release system. Now this system is not recommended for downhill as it is flexy, but if i get a good quality skewer like say, an xtr skewer that has a great clamping force will the bike handle hard downhill or will I risk breaking smtg like the axle.
The reason Front shifting is harder than Rear shifting is that the Front derailleur shifts the top (the tight side) of the chain. The bottom of the chain is always loose, so it's much easier.
Cool shout out to Sheldon Brown.
I learned a ton of stuff from him on his site while he was still around. Amazing man.
I think he would love to see how far bikes have come in the last few years.
I made my self a display set-up for my bike in my man cave which include putting the bike in a repair stand clamp (very lightly clamped with a fiber cloth in the clamp) on the top tube. Winter here in Canada last about a minimum of 5 month. Do you think leaving the bike on the stand clamp on the top tube for a extended period of time can put unnecessary stress on the frame and damage it? It a aluminum full suspension trail bike!
I don’t ride mountain bikes however I love gmbn tech , keep up the great videos thank you 👍🏻
Doddy, first of all, great video (as always). However, when it comes to the comparison of the E13 and Eagle cassette, I think you missed a pretty important point: a sprocket with 9 teeth will have considerably higher friction than a 10 tooth one (which in turn already suffers from significantly higher friction compared to a 11t one). Therefore, even though the E13 technically has a larger range (511%) than the Eagle, I'm pretty sure that efficiency adjusted, the Eagle would come out on top. I think this is an important aspect to note when it comes to such small sprocket sizes.
What is the difference between a bb30 and pf30 ?
Actually you have a bigger gear range on the E-13. On the Eagle you have a 500% gear ration on the E-13 you actually have 511%
Andrew Dodd yeah! Ejj thanks fpr answering though :)
Andrew Dodd Well I mean we all do mistakes don't we? ;) Oh and thanks for the explanation ond the BB's cleard up alot of things and I would really like to get a video on different crank systems. Like hollowtech, hollowtech 2 etc.
Sumo's'Enduro right on, seems like eagle may be nice for xc, I really like the e-13 for enduro. The jumps are reasonable, and the drivetrain is more compact.
austin ritz why would the e13 option be better for enduro? Its a few grams lighter than eagle and since xc weightweenies will see the 50g diffrence it would make sense. Also the gear ratios are actually similar to old school 2x10 or 2x11 with a 34t chainring
Calvin Pessl I like the slightly more compact drivetrain- you can run a smaller chainring in the front for the same ratio. Gives better clearance. Also, I like the 11 vs 12 speeds because I can get through the gears faster and the ratios are adequate.
I always preferred 2x for xc because of the closer ratios. That's why I like the eagle for a 1x xc setup, the ratios are slightly closer so it's easier to get my cadence where I want it.
Great vid guys! I really love your channel. You're so helpful
I dispute the idea that the original square taper threaded BB tended to fall apart and had 'crappy bearings'. Maybe crappy knock-offs did, but I NEVER had such issues with XT or Phil or SKF or TA or Suntour or Campy. In fact, the small diameter steel axle allowed for *larger* bearings that were *more* durable, and while the aluminum crank might re-shape, I put tens of thousands of miles on one, re-installed several times, and the crank continued to be just fine. It was marginally heavier, but was plenty stiff (they are still used by keirin racers), and plenty durable. My only complaint is the old style lockring that used the easy-to-slip BB wrench, but Phil BBs had no such issue. Oh, and no creaking.
Great video, am loving this new tech channel. Re: the E-1 cassette: wondering how most chains and derailleurs cope with a cog that has only 9 teeth?
Great work, thanks !
I ride a Custom fully rigid 26" with a high bottom bracket. Sort of a Cross Country/ Trials bike. I would never use a Suspension Fork on this particular bike. The dropper post is the best upgrade I could ever make.
Dropper post on a hardtail, best upgrade I ever did.
What are you talking about?
Thanks Doddy. Informative 👍🏻👍🏻
All I want this winter is snow and a dropper post
Thanks a lot.
Great info Doddy, love the channel!
Great episode Doddy! I'm enjoying gmbn tech
Just what I need! Thanks guys!
Hi I have a 2016 Norco range c7.4 so it's a carbon bike and I'm wondering how often I should do Bering work. I usually ride park
Great job on the new channel Doddy!
Can you do a comparison between the range of Shimano and SRAM brakes?
Brake brake-downs are on the list 😉
Always helpful this channel! You rock! 👍🏼
Hia Doddy, I have a standard square tapered 68/113 Bottom Bracket.
I want to convert to external BB/24mm axel type however a couple of things are stumping me.
1) Does the axel width (i.e. not the diameter width but the width between the pedal and the crank side) become a factor..or, as I appear to have absorbed through some form of osmosis, have they standardised this at 73mm providing spacers to allow people with 68mm to make up the difference?
2) I would prefer not to have to upspec my Shimano FH-M756 VIA-M 9 speed to a whole new '2x11' compatible wheel/freehub and groupset...at the most I would consider going to 10 speed (maybe) as I could fit that to my existing freehub (I think).
It's driving me nuts but I can't find anything out there I could use...have you any ideas or should I just be looking at an upgrade?
or should I just cheapskate it and stock with a square taper (or something similar)? if so, what's the best option here
I'm a simple man. I see GMBN Tech video - I press like.
Hi Doddy. Great new channel, so good work on that :) Picking up on inner cables, what do you think about cable oilers such as the Middleburn ones. My friend runs them and swears blind by them, cant decide if I should go down the same route? He has externally routed cables, so a bit easy to locate whereas I have internally routed cables so more limited scope for positioning!....
Awesome, love the new channel.
This is a great channel!!!
I am opening a bike shop and workshop focusing on MTB in Nairobi, Kenya and I have seen your Park Tool kit! In the Park Tool catalogue there are loads of package kits from super comprehensive to a few bits, which one would you recommend for a new shop to start with?
If I want easier climbing gears is it more effective to use a smaller chainring or a bigger cassette?
Smaller front chainring (same range of gears) or bigger casette, if you want bigger range of gears. Depends on you, your budget and current setup.
Can you make a video about how to set up coilshocks on a downhill bike??
Am I correct that shimano saint cranks have a 24 mm spindle/axle? I found a bb that should hopefully fit saint cranks with a commencal dh 4.2
I want to do myself to convert from one piece cottered crankshaft to BB tapered crankshaft on my mountain bike
What full face helmet do you recommend for enduro/ all mountain riding ?
Do you have any idea why a pivot might not screw back in?
Hey Doddy thanks for the heads up on the GMBN Tech Facebook page (who knew?) you should also mention that you have a GMBN Tech Instagram too. Thanks I'm loving this new channel.
A big thank you for this very interesting video !! I learned a lot :-)
I have a Diamond back Heist 1.0 2016. I am planning to upgrade my suspension forks but I’m not brave enough to take apart my bike ,therefore what steering tube does it have and what suspension should I get ? Keep up the great work 👍🏻💪🙏
Depends on how much you want to spend on new fork. Get some fork with air spring. Look's like a non tapered frame, so get straight steering tube. If you get tapered fork, you can use some special lower headset cup to use it, but it doesn't work with every frame.
puka cheers🙏 I’ll keep that in mind 👍🏻🏆
@ask what's up with those 'one legged forks' why would you use them, what is the pros and cons of them?
Great video! I like being able to nerd out! in the workshop I ask myself "What would Doddy do...?"
Probably a question you should only ask yourself in the workshop 😂
7:53 I currently use Semimetallic TRP pads, they worked great so far, wear pretty slow, but I have used metallic and resin, metallic worked great, but resin was useless.
Great video, I’ve just bought a used carbon trek remedy 9.9 frame with what I now know (thanks to this vid) is a bb95 fitting, It’s a 2013 frame and when I looked on treks archives the original spec was a SRAM xo crankset 10 speed, so I went and bought a SRAM xo crankset without checking and it has a bb30 fitting 175mm 10 speed, please help! what are my options here?
I thought gear inches were the theoretical diameter of a wheel you would need in order to go the same distance each pedal revolution, assuming you had no gears (ie: a penny farthing or a unicycle). this is off by a factor of Pi from how far you go each pedal revolution.
I have a Norco Fluid 7.1with a sram nx 1x11 drive train. It is a 30 tooth front chain ring and 11-42 cassette. This is fine riding in the forest trails around where I live but in May I’m taking part in a charity ride across the South Downs so I have bought a race face 38T narrow wide to give me a bit more at the top end for long fast downhill sections. With this larger chain ring on its pulling the rear derailleur forward using the same chain. Bearing in mind I’m only using this chain ring fora 1off ride am I still best to invest in a longer chain or will it be ok over 60km and not damage the derailleur ?
Buy new chain. Better spend 15$ now or 150$ tommorow.
0:40 happen with both Avilio & Acera cranks in maybe few months combined, absolutely horrible system, also the Shimano UN22 bottom brackets I managed to wear out in few days, it had horrible play and knocking, replacing that constantly would cost a insane amount of money, I only spend money on proper components.
I now got Chris King installed on the old xc bike, it has angular contact bearings, it's absolutely necessary for bottom brackets, or it can wear in months.
Hi guys, I have a question for you about the bottom brackets. I have a on-one fatty trail, and it has a 100mm bottle bracket shell. But I'm struggling with the size of the crankset needed, it has external bb, so the existing x5 crank has a spindle of about 120mm. The problem is that they advertise cranks as suitable for 100mm bb shell, but they don't show the spindle length. I just bought a new crankset, labelled as 100mm bb shell, but too short! Do I need to look for 120mm bb shell cranks?
Cheers
Paul
You should make a poll - does anyone still actuality use schrader valves?
A lot of people are riding 26". It would be pointless
could you make a list of all the axel standards?
#askgmbn do you have any suggestions on any 205mm eye to eye rear shock? If not, is it possible to shorten a 210mm eye to eye by cutting it or something like that? I was just wondering because the Specialized Camber has a 205 eye to eye and couldn't find any shocks.
Love the Hammond organ. Take us to church, Doddy!😊
Hi Doddy quick question for you, some of the bolts on my bike look like they have rust inside them not had the bike for that long wondered if you could help me out. Tried putting some muc off mo94 on but still out there. Ps keep up the good work 👍👍
Use steel brush or put them in alcohol. Depends of depth of rust.
I just bought a second hand bike to see what kind of mountain biking is for me. My friends recommended to buy a used bike first with the recommended parts. So I got a 2018 Alloy GT Zaskar 29er. On my first ride early this morning, my pedals fell off only 2.3 miles into the ride and found out that I had stripped the crank which is an SRAM 2x10 (sorry I'm new to this and do not know the terminologies) from what I can see in the crank it's a 38/24T Truvativ GPX. Since I'm planning to replace the crank anyway, can I upgrade to the SRAM NX Eagle 1x12 group set without buying anything else? My head is still spinning from a day's worth of searching the net. Any info would greatly be appreciated.
Edit: what bottom bracket will the 2018 Zaskar alloy 29er accept?
I have a 32 tooth chainring at the moment and i'm looking to upgrade to a 34 tooth. What do I need to know about bolt circle diameters and what would fit my cranks, I have Shimano M8000 cranks
Hi I've tried to search your facebook page but i couldn't find the answer. Did you manage to make up volume spacers for the recon shocks? Thanks
Did you end up finding an answer to this.
@@edwarddruitt7521 Sorry for the delay. No I didn't find anything.
Can a bolt thru axle go through a wheel with Quick-Release if the quick release Mech is removed?
If by taking out the "quick release mech" you mean the skewer then no. Some hubs do have removable parts to allow them to be converted between QR, 20mm and 15mm axle types however.