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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
- Dave checks out a Fluke/Philips PM2812 System DC Power supply he scored from ebay for 30 bucks.
Does it work?
Will the bunker hardware tin collection come through?
Or will it just be couch feet?
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"winner, winner... chicken dinner". I am so glad you said that. I completely forgot I had some chicken defrosting on the kitchen sink. By the time I got to the end of your video, I began to detect delicious smells coming from the kitchen.
Front binding posts were an option for these power supplies (I have 2 single channel units and one dual channel unit with this feature). It is a metal section that attaches to the underside of the main unit using 7/8" stand offs with screws that pass through the feet. The lower section consists of 5 posts (Chassis GND, V-, S-, S+, V+) and a sense switch (local or remote). It is electrically connected to the main unit via 4 wires that run inside the lower section and attaches to the terminal block on the rear of the main unit using common spade terminals. In order for the binding post section to function without throwing a FAIL error, there is a jumper on the power output board that needs to be in the OFF position to disable the onboard capacitor between the V+ and V- output terminals; this is necessary because there is a capacitor already incorporated in the binding post section. Below is a link for the user manual.
assets.fluke.com/manuals/pm2800xxumeng0300.pdf
We need an "MORE COUCH FEET!" T-Shirt.
william foster Yes.
+John Smith yes!!!!! it shall be done
I does look like those capacitors are in fact in series. The jumper when set to the 110V closes the circuit between one leg of the AC side of the rectifier bridge and the center connection of the series connected capacitors. This acts like a voltage doubler circuit. The 220V terminal with no trace is essentially a park position for the jumper. When it is open, the circuit does not act as a voltage doubler and is thus ready to accept 220V.
The exact same configuration has been used for decades in typical computer switching power supplies. That is what the voltage selector switch does on those computer power supplies.
MTTT3000 Oh, doh, I'll go recheck that. I just saw no trace and thought that was that!
MTTT3000 I was just going to say the same thing and your message popped up. ;)
EEVblog Seems like you have to swap the mains input spade lugs as well as the jumper.
EEVblog Yep, confirmed, now working on 240V. Had to change both input wiring and that jumper. It actually shows this in the system wiring diagram. Had to lower the fuses too of course.
EEVblog Was screaming at my screen as well :D Typical construction to do it like that. www.repairfaq.org/sam/smpsvs.gif
You could make an acrylic case so you can see inside while it's running. Acrylic sheets are pretty easy to glue and drill. If you still have your intern he should have access to a laser cutter at university :-)
For anyone wondering, the reason that the voltage goes up when the AC is rectified is because AC voltages are usually given in RMS (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Root_mean_square), so to get the true peak value of a sine wave, you need to multiply it by the square root of 2
Dear Dave. Thanks for inspiring me. My recent ebay score (down to you) a "faulty" kenwood 5.1 receiver was just easily fixed by replacing the batteries in the remote. Happy days. Thanks again, John
Dave regarding the wooden case I would recommend you first pull out your Spectrum Analyzer and check what is radiating from the innards first.Switching Power Supplies were of variable quality in that era and known for being noisy. And wooden case will give you nothing in the way of shielding. Do you really want a Hash Generator in your lab ?
4:37 "... ah ha, I should have thought of this before I started recording..." - na that would take all the fun out of your videos! ;-)
ElmerFuddGun Well, that is my thing isn't it...
EEVblog Yep, and it's great! Don't change!
I'm sure Dave has nightmares of couch feet chasing him
The 110V/220V jumper may be like the 110V/220V switch on older AT/ATX power supplies, which simply connects the centre-tap of the input capacitors to neutral when on the 110V setting. Edit: I see MTTT3000 beat me to it.
Darn. I was hoping for more of a repair video. Even after taking 2 years of technical school, I learn more from you videos than I did there. You rock Dave!
laughed my ass off @ finding the spacers and screws :)
Lexan cover and some tri-colour leds illuminating the inside that change colour dependant on the voltage being output
That last 10mins was absolutely gold! Had me in fits :D
SNL : "More Cow Bell!"
EEVBlog : "More Couch Feet!"
I have one of these - the backlight burns out on the display - it's an EL backlight that you can easily fix.
hello , my PM2813 has no backlight anymore , could you help me to fix it please ? ( hi from paris )
I'd be happy to buy from eBay and donate stuff like this because these are my favorite of all your videos (and mailbag of course). I like the discovery process and mystery solving I guess. Really great stuff thank you.
Sexy power supply indeed!!! MS and LS mean Most significant bit and Least Significant bit :) I'm guessing it's binary for the set up of the board. Thanks for sharing!!! Cheers!
Dave, good idea about the problem of hoarding items just for the sake of future use.
The mess is always not a good alternative to going out and buying them when you need them. Just for the sake of time wasted is time lost and can't get back and that is not worrying about the mess and dust accumulating around junk that is not going to be needed or used anytime in the near future.
There is another reason to "outsource" the SMD stuff on seperate boards. If the board with the power components uses 210µm thick copper the minimum trace clearance you need is beyond 0.21mm. Too much for even simple 1.27mm SMD pad spacing. So you need to put these on a seperate board with standard (35µm) copper thickness.
BTW the display frame has these little vertical gaps on the bottom. They line up with the characters in the display, I like that for some reason :)
I enjoy these types of videos.
It's like CSI forensics trying to figure out what the prior owner did.
Yeah, you're not going to close that back up permanently, but it might be convenient to add a series of jacks that connect to the important bits of the insides; those you might find yourself saying "I wonder what's going on inside there."
If I was going to build a case for it (wood sounds good, I love electronics in wood), I'd probably just make it slightly higher and put front binding above (or below) the original front panel.
Have the same exact unit but 220 V EU variant. The caps in the power supply are the same 200 WV.
Dear Dave, I love what you do on the EEVblog and I am a huge fan of yours! I first found you about a year ago or so and I am always checking your posts here. I am bidding on an Agilent 6653A and it started out at 9.99 usd and has a shipping price of a whopping 55.63 usd on it. I did my max bids and hope I win as my cheapo bench power supply so called a Lab ready grade psu is complete garbage and I paid for it brand new a cost of 48.98 again USD and it is the chap ass course and fine knob type. I really do making and all kinds of this type work as an advanced hobbyist and thought why not go for the bidding since it is in the price I was wanting to spend anyway. Here is the thing on why it is so cheap. It is sold as is for parts or repair because seller has no good enough way of testing it and they told me in the ad it does power up and does things when buttons are pressed but not tested with loads or other types of tests. I am wanting this type of psu as I hate turning knobs and would rather punch number keys and have it do the adjustment that way. Also Sir, What is you're Shipping info? I have some things I hope to send you and I would like to know if we can be mail buddys or pin pals? Anyhow I gotta get back to cleaning up and hope this message gets to you.
You'r friend and huge fan in electronics
-Jake L.
I'd put a plexiglass sheet ("perspex" in UK/AU parlance?) on the top, just because I love seeing the internal workings of things. It'd be no longer a "black magic box" but a "Wow, look at all the precision engineering that went into this! ... As I use it!" box.
I just love the look of this supply.
The last time I won a "untested" bargain on ebay it was so fried on the inside I could smell it when I opened the box.
Whatever you do to the case, I think it needs some new feet. Couch feet.
A couple of those wall mount small parts storage bins would make that parts collection more practical. Sans the couch feet of course.
that board IS for 240V.. the capacitors are in series - as in many (all ?) ATX supplies.
Robert Jung I've never had to change the voltage on an ATX supply in my life.
EEVblog Trap for young players! xD
I'd stick with some non-flammable cover, just in case something gets too hot or catches on fire. Nice score!
When we go to the bunker (28:45), next to all those tins, over on the left-hand edge of the frame, is that an Apple Lisa sitting there? Fantastic passive thermal design in that machine for fan-free cooling!
Could maybe use some 6mm Marine Grade AA ply for your case. You can get some pretty nice sheets even from Bunnings or the like. Bit of wipe on poly and you've got a winner.
Honestly dave... even if it works or is beyond economical repair the videos are still entertaining in the sence of getting to the finnish line where you come to the conclution of "no it's not worth it" or "damn it works!" since there is usaly a lesson to be learned in any case so keep doing these kind of videos!
I watch em all from start to finnish since it is the "ducks guts" for me atleast and i'm sure there are more ppl like me that thinks this is entertaining.
I got dual channel Philips PM2812 for free as a faulty unit with error message. Just resoldered the screw terminal (sense line) and it's fully functioning! Although I still should limit or swap the Canon branded fans that sounds like a jet engine..
Petex90 Score! Yes, they are pretty damn loud.
Make it lexan/acrylic, then you can see the internals. Also pretty good strength, easy to bend/work with, etc
They are very good. I managed to pick up a couple for £10 each at a ham radio rally. Wish i had kept them.
Banana connectors - YES
Wooden cover - NO
You should use metal sheet, to act as shielding also.
Im sure that you will get some noise on oscilloscopes w/o grounded metal cover.
I would have loved to meet the guy who collected and cataloged all that.
use a non flammable cover, maybe something from an old video or cd player
plexi is easy to use, you can go to a shop (Castorama/Obi/Praktiker etc.) and they will cut for you 3 rectangles, then you will need to glue them together, voila
jerzyk007 I'd need 4 to make a box.
The signal path blog will love this video .... i think :)
cool, that is the perfect opportunity to fire up the cnc machine. I would love see some cnc videos.
Look on the back at the unit where the power goes in look next to it and there's a compartment you take a screwdriver pry the door off of a there should be a little thing you pull out of it and you can switch it around and push it in for 230 volts and it's right next to where the power goes in and the power switch its in between those two
Some kind of cool clear acrylic case would look good on it.
+1 for the EEVBlog Bunker. Bloody couch feet... ;)
Yes to the wood case.
EEVblog Dave, Australia should be on 230V now, not 240V as you mentioned at 6:30. Likewise, all of Europe is on 230V now, including the UK which used to be at 240V like Australia.
This power supply was obviously designed before European countries agreed to a common line voltage of 230V. As for the US, they're on 120V these days.
genkiadrian IIRC, we just adopted the standard, which is 230 V +10%/−6%. This also means we didn't actually have to change anything. Can confirm my line is currently ~245V
***** 245V is way too high and I would highly discourage Dave to connect any old equipment designed for 220V to a 240V line under these circumstances. In Germany, the standard dictates 230V/50Hz and this is what you pretty much get spot on when you measure it.
ya I was thinking if you have a small screw machine or 3D printer you could have made new parts in the same time and not have the storage problems. I have a toy lathe that might be repurposed to a screw machine.
impressive parts bunker :D
Well I would have thought the board with an X written in sharpie would have been bad. Looks to me like the seller had no idea how to operate this, and they just assumed it was bad. Anyway I think it might be a good idea to think about a recap job. We are talking about 20+ year old caps ( who knows when they were manufactured ) and that might be attributing to some of the strange behavior of the second channel and the slow to ramp to 60V. I don't think $30 is bad at all for a programmable power supply.
Sense lines on output conector link s+ s- twist sence lines and connect as close to the load as posible
You can probably mill a top for the case on that new x-carve.
I'd try expanded steel mesh. Plenty of fresh air and a Faraday cage. Winner winner...
make a wooden case for it, with a glass window and some lights in there! Would look sweet!
Very nice indeed probably better than a brand new Chinese one
oh bad luck, you bought a working model but you wanted a broken one, such a pain :P
ACRYLIC COVER! (of course with a reinforce in the middle to hold any weight of other equipments) and maybe some leds
sacd25 I can get blue light up spinning fans and everything! :->
EEVblog Or the rainbow LED ones :P
EEVblog go all out and use cold cathode tubes :D
a transparent case with color changing LEDs would be cool
Moral of the story? You can either sort your stuff to the Nth degree now, or dig through them to find what you need later, either way you'll have to spend the time! XD
maybe transparent acrillyc plastic?
Varnished wood for the case would look nice.
Hey Dave!!!
Now I don't know much about this Fluke programmable powersupply - but wouldn't logic dictate that it did indeed have a top, because the three fans at the rear of the case are blowing OUT the back? Without a top panel, ther'd be no cooling for the components whatsoever!
Its a fluke!, its got to much inside it, its expensive, its hard to use, doesnt do anything something 1/4 the price can do, dave will love it!
Its NOT a Fluke; its a Philips design, relabelled as a Fluke after the buy out. Any Fluke unit where the model number begins with a PM (Philips Measurement) is a Philips Design. All of the "Fluke" test equiment built in Europe is Philips designed. This includes oscilloscopes (including the 9X Scopemeters), frequency counters, power supplies, LCR bridges, some Bench meters (PM25XX family), and Function/Signal Generators.
How many couch feet can a person have?
great find!
Gotta love getting expensive stuff sold as faulty that works perfectly, ebay still occasionally has such bargains... :D
The service book states there is 2 jumpers
USA USA USA ;)
never hurting for couch feet
Those sliding support posts are sex on a stick!
nice good score
"Made in Holland" nice :)
I would love to have a programmable power supply like this
Antinull Sadly dave buys them all, so you will have to get a new one xD
It needs a window on that new case!!
hi, Dave!. at 9:45 you mention that the addresses are addressed by bridging solderpads 1, 2, 3 in a linear fashion. did you consider that the pads may indicate addresses via binary? if so, how did toy know that they weren't? it would be interesting having one computer control 64 channels.
I watched this but was waiting til payday :(
I think a nice perspex cover, don't want to hide all that art that engineers slaved away designing.
***** but you only see the bottom of the boards, you'd be mooned all day long.
He He,That's just nuts.
30$. how much was shipping for such big thing? half a million?
the real illuminati $2.19 apparently
Litruv what the hell how
I've not a clue. In one of daves comments he has 32.19$ including postage.
Litruv *plus* postage
the real illuminati According to the listing, shipping was an extra ~$60 or so. But from my experience, that's pretty cheap shipping for something that size. Normally I see it closer to $175ish.
They're nice and skookum..
Polycarbonate case and some RGB leds
I know 2 years on BUT does any one know the spade jumper to change, that Dave mentions, on the 240v in put side. I can see the spare spade but which wire goes there? Brown or Blue to the empty spade?
Thanks who evere might be able to help.
Cheers, David
Yah it's a doesn't work so why not sell it to you job. I gave up buying things on the internet because I got bored of uncovering all the factory lemons in town. It hurts when I see a good deal, but there you go... I was winning the game until I got a phenomx3 system that had a blown ps/2 controller. You could not get into the BIOS in any way. The guy would not take it back, and it had a hard disk with bad clusters, and graphic card with a cracked inductor on it. I tried to use the DVD burner that had the LabelFlash, but I have some doubts because the CDs look faint. Also I tried to burn a dual layer once that failed. So I was out like $120.
MORE BLOODY COUCH FEET!
19:34 cold joint on shunt resistor left pin?
Why do you even keep the couch feet?
Dave, or somebody else, how do you keep finding these deals? Do you just search for random electronic related searchterms? Do you complete some kind of list, eg first search for scopes, than for sources, ... Or is there some kind of ebay sub catogory with most of these things in it? Cause I really wanna get in on some of this action!
Dam cheap price, you jammy ba..... ha ha :-D
What about using the top case off an old vcr, they often have a vent for cooling, you dont want to box it in and cook the old beast.
Hi, I have a question that power supply recommends to me from these models.Instek PSP-2010,
Fluke-Phillips-PM2811, Instek PR-3060 30V/6A analog,GW Instek GPD-3303S thanks you are the best
Meh, I should move to australia, you seem to be getting so much stuff for next to nothing there... here I would have payed 300 bucks for that thing...
Hi Dave, whats the make and model # of your electronic load in the lab? Have you ever reviewed electronic loads on the eev blog before? Thanks
What are you doing with this?
Joaquin Menchaca Electronic load is a synthetic simulation of a DC energy absorption within deliberately controlled parameters.. as if a real "load" is attached
why cant i find those things
$30 inc. shipping?
Hey Dave,
I just got my first Multi Meter rated a Cat II! Anything you recommend testing it out on?
High voltage?
I think this unit needs some couch feet :)
Did you put the feedback strap on the 60v outpu?
william fleete Yes.
Haha should see my component collection great RUclips content