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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- A look at the $70 Juntek 2000W power supply with wireless display.
Also the 3000W model, but does it have a problem?
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Those higher voltages are starting to become common with stuff like drones and ebikes.
Ah, ok, interesting, thanks.
Still not high enough for LED luminaires.
@Dave Micolichek Obviously not, this would be for testing said motor controllers and the like.
Exactly and since ebikes are popular, batteries for ebikes become cheap so we can use them for projects. We built a remote operated vehicle that runs on a 48v ebike battery at work.
@@Lordniksidor And battery packs are relatively easy to build with 18650 batteries and BMS
So, are you telling me i need a power supply to power the power supply ?
AND you need a Dam to power the power station that powers the power supply that powers the power supply. Don't worry, there will be enough left for your light bulb and hot plate. Your power meter may saw a slot through your house, though. ;-)
If you really need a basic power supply you could jury rig a enclosed circuit board that plugs into the wall goes into a full wave rectifier and a couple filter caps. Probably those caps need to be rated 220v and I guess everything would be going through the rectifier. So you need a beefy rectifier. Max 1500 w from the wall ?
@@averysbragbook And how do you isolate the mains supply from the end circuit?
@@mervynjack4108 Good point. Make a 1:1 transformer might be the solution
I found the title misleading. It's not a power "supply" really. It's a smart DC to DC voltage and current regulator. You still have to spend the big bucks on getting your mains rectified, isolated and dropped down. I suppose you could hook it up to batteries or solar cells, but it's still not the 'supply'.
Me too. I was thinking it was such good value until i realised it was a regulator without a switch mode mains supply. Price is just ok
Rectifying mains voltage is super cheap.
if you dont need 60v, just get a 50v server power supply. for 100€ you get 3kw 60a easy
I get free mains transformers from work. No worries there.
Besides, the manual says "DC power supply", fair enough.
@@kwhp1507 and will blow up the converter and make the output live
Test, RUclips seems to erasing my own comments on this video.
I see this comment and a few reply's to others on my end. Thanks for the video. always enjoy the content.!
Nope, I see this loud and clear.
Test 1, 2
No, can't see that! 😂😂
RUclips knows what’s best for us
They didn't mess up the "V" and "U". I.E U=42V in the same way that you'd write I=42A
Jeah, he didnt notice its "I=xA" too, just like with U = xV. Shoudl it be Amps=3Amps? :D
I was under the impression the anglo sphere does not use U to designate voltage variables, but V? (which woul dbe confusing because the unit is also V, but hey, that's what it seemed to me so far)
You are right, it does seem like he messed that up, however, next to where he pointed it says CV CC, so that should be CU CC.
I am a radio enthusiast who monitors VHF and shortwave bands. I have very mixed feelings on some these cheap, sometimes questionable build quality switch-mode transformers used in increasing numbers in modern electronics which are unfortunately known for strong excessive RFI (radio frequency interference) My LED computer monitor which likely uses a cheap 19 volt switch mode power adapter emits widespread interference throughout the entire shortwave band likely becoming a major issue if your a Ham radio operator or receive only listener. I do have a new somewhat pricy TekPower 30 amp swiching power supply I use with my CB radio and other low or high amp 12 volt gadgets. This supply specifically designed 2 way radio use also emits some RFI but does have a nifty noise offset to tune out any self made noises it generates, but cheap poorly designed power supplies are a growing issue to radio enthusiasts.
There isn't a great deal you can do about all the junk that the neighbours have plugged in, but if you're doing anything with audio, including radio, the better bet is have a decent linear supply.
Linear supplies are generally larger, heavier, far less efficient, more expensive to buy and more expensive to post. You're not paying this price for nothing though - All these characteristics are the price you pay for very low noise output.
I have pulled the supplies out of my monitors and replaced them with a linear regulator setting the reference for a series pass transistor stage on a sheet of 1/4inch thick aluminium. It runs screaming hot, but it adds nothing to the noise floor from audio up to 440Mhz (my playground).
It IS possible to get SMPS that are very very low noise, and when I'm rich and famous, I'll go to the effort of stress testing a few. Until then, I dump money, in the form of heat, into reliable and low noise linear tech.
@David Daivdson
I am genuinely surprised that the national regulators tolerate it.
The place it is most noticeable is HF (3 - 30MHz). Yes, for amateurs it is really really annoying, but they're not the only group of people affected by this. The military of any developed nation still uses HF for long range communications that can operate "off grid". No repeaters, no satellites, no phone lines.
I can't believe that in an age where police are empowered to kick down doors over mean tweets, they allow critical infrastructure to be jammed by joke electronics.
@@digitalradiohacker I suspect that the benefit of higher power supply efficiency outweighs the higher noise floor for ham operators. Very few people use ham radios anymore anyway, at least here in the UK.
Yep, I moved to the countryside for the same reason.
This has been a problem for a long time now, but the only thing that you can do about it is drive out to a mountain top that is at least 3 miles from any civilization, then set up your HF radio gear and then drive your car a 1/4 mile away from your radio antenna or remove the battery cable so that the ECU computer shuts down all the way. Unless you have an old vehicle, pre computer era or at least OBD 1 not 2 let's face it there's more switched mode power supply's out there than you can ever imagine, all new appliances, refrigerators, washers and dryers, stoves, and then there is lights it got really bad at night because of CFL lamps (compact fluorescent lamps). But fortunately those are going away slowly, and bring replaced by LED's which still produce some noise, but not nearly as much as the CFL lamps do. The CFL lamps are bad because of the high voltage required to ionize the gas in the lamp. But TV'S and computers are horrible offenders as they have both a switching power supply, and extremely fast processors. But in addition to those there's little things like chargers for Electric razors, and Electric toothbrushes, and then medical devices such as CPAP machines, there are 2 of those in my house, and they both have those inline power brick power supply's like a laptop computer, and they're all generating noise some a little some a lot. Strangely enough one of the worst offenders I have ever come across is one of those little switcher buck converters that plugs into the cigarette lighter or auxiliary power jack in your car, and it was a really nice one triple output 4.6 amp unit. I didn't realize it was the problem at first but I was sometimes having trouble receiving my favorite Christan radio station, and not AM but FM, and a local station at that. And it seemed to be random, it would be there and then suddenly disappear. Well one day I had gone somewhere a short distance from home, I was not in my truck but a few minutes, and when I went to get out, for some reason I unplugged my phone before turning off the truck radio and most of the interference instantly disappeared so I pulled that buck conver out of the auxiliary power jack, and all the interference instantly disappeared, and I had a full quieting signal. So yes some of those things are noisy all the way up into at least the VHF band's and maybe even further. One of these days I will have a look at it with a spectrum analyzer, and just see where all it is visibly trashing the spectrum.
As a cheap load you can take some coated magnet wire and dunk it in a bucket of water. I’ve done this with kW loads
Thanks
That works much better with AC sources since it won't corrode the wire so much.
@@userPrehistoricman coated wires dont give a shit about water, ac or dc 😜
U're right. But where is he going to get
Higher voltages are useful for high end bldc motors and servos, they typically have flatter torque curves at higher voltages. 96v would come in handy as a cheap supply for anodizing titanium as well. I'll watch the rest of the video before I decide to I need to pick one of these up!
Is the Thermocouple in a TO220 package at the end of the heatsink, flapping in the breeze, measuring the output air temperature?
Nope, that's an IRF something meaning that it's more likely to be a MOSFET. However, they might be measuring temperature using that one. A bit overkill and unnecessary but who knows, Chinese wisdom maybe?
It is a but unfortunate that these (and other similar) "power supplies" really are just DC-DC converters.
To have a lab power supply, it would be favorable when they had a 230V AC input and isolation.
I know I can order a separate fixed switchmode supply for 60V or similar but that kind of defeats the purpose of having a cheap lab power supply.
Hopefully one time they bring out boxes with AC input (and of course with the required safety).
I use my dps5015 (50V at 15A) Power by my old arc welder transformer and a smaller transformer to drop the primary voltage to the main transformer. But the transformer from the welder has no built in magnetic shunt, so baisicly a normal transformer just a huge ~1500W one.
Yeah, it'd be great to use the ready supply of AC at these power levels. You're not going to find an old laptop/pc power supply putting out 2kW. Maybe rip the transformer out of a microwave, but then you're getting sketchy as. For a "lab" power supply I'd rather something that's reliable, linear and self-contained. But I rarely need >100W
@@MrSnoots you probably dont want to do this. those transformers are designed to be "lossy" and you have to hack in somehow a new secondary. finding a transformer which does 2KW can be a tricky task. but im still not fully convinced that it can handle the 2 kW anyway. maybe more 2 chinese kW
@Robert Slackware bur rewind the secondarys or you will get a "very shocking" experience. But still they are only in the 500W range.
@@lukahierl9857 Shocking indeed! More like a shocking and skin-burning experience.
The active chips look more "lasered" than "milled". You can see the individual circles by the laser
Why would they even do that?
1. To put off competitive Chinese that want to steal the design.
2. So you can’t fix it.
Yes, that is laser engraving. There are many reasons to obscure the components. The devices are not designed to be serviced, so there is not a huge impact for consumers.
The erase of the part numbers on the chip, the markings look interesting, could it be done with a pulsed laser beam? Looks like little dots with some tiny overlapping.
Thought so
Ah! This must be it! I was puzzling over how the hell they could make a quick and easily-automatable scrubbing method that would end up looking like that.
They probably use a galvo steered beam from something like a fiber laser. Set up a fixture to register the board, program the size and location of the chips and fire away.Beats getting out a dremel.
It is lasered off. Seems to be a small pulsed qswitched (most likely about 10-100ns) high rep rate laser.
Pew pew pew
the wireless modules are standard NRF24L01 2.4ghz modules
They look fake with that black blob.
chinesium is strong in this one
top quality, only the best.
Best element on Isaac Newton table, stuper strong, many reliable
Lol 😂 😂
Dave, please, test these two devices for max load. I understand that won't be easy, but possible. At least you can connect a number of your PSUs outputs in series to achieve higher voltage to supply DUT, then load it with some ballast resistor (nichrome wire wound). Thanks.
43:45 So it blows the hot air towards the caps? Nice!
0-50 amps.... Anyone after a welder😂
But not with high frequency start!
You should have increased the Hameg output voltage by a bit as you will have less than the 20V at the Juntek input because of the cable voltage drop.
Dave becomes lazy, he had all the equipment to test dropout voltage. Two minute test. I liked his videos for their entertainment _and_ educational value. That last point gradually diminishes. Then what, unboxing videos? Yes, I'm a little grumpy now. :)
Mikeselectricstuff did a “dummy load in a bucket” video some time ago. I really want to see if these things can handle what they claim or if they explode/catch fire!
They work good! Heathkit now MFJ has been making 50ohm transmitter load for years. These units are set in oil.
halogen globes work well for plain ol DC
Makes you wonder when a 105V input supply has a 100V rated capacitor across it/s input. I know they survive modest overload but that's not good practice surely?
IRFP4110PBF MOSFETs used in these DC/DCs are also 100V rated. ;)
They are not rated for how long they need to operate at 100V. I guess three seconds is long enough? 😂
Considering the cooling, I'd say those are peak numbers, also, a set od high performance RC batteries shouldnt have a problem with few kWs
19:30 Still not as bad as a Hakko soldering iron with digital interface. Two buttons.
Hey, they could have done everything with one button but were super generous and decided to give double the necessary buttons.
That is the one thing I do not like about my Hakko; it has to be some of the worst UX design I've come across recently.
You can tell it is Chinese whenever there is a"technical parameters", seems like nobody can get this translate to the more common technical specifications
I like the Ibput voltage, personally
You can tell it's Chinese if you end up buying it after watching RUclips.
I prefer the "Operationg Instructions." That's another common translation error I see in a lot of products.
Hook up some lead acid batteries in series, that should provide the needed umpf...
Deep cycle batteries would do the job quite well enough...
You can send one of them to me in the states and I'll put it thru its paces. I have 2 higher power capable supplies, one 60V/50A @ 2500W max. and one 20v/115A 2800W max., both running off 240vac single phase. The 2500W is rated for 3KW but only when running off 3-phase power. I have a Transistor Devices electronic load that will do 600V/400A @ 4000W!
You can pick up 48v server supplies off Fleabay relatively inexpensively which would be a great way of powering one of these supplies (regulators).
Damn! That electronic load must be enormous
I have the opposite problem. I own a 20.5 + 20.5 Vac 30 +30 amp iron core transformer and all the filtering capacitors and rectifiers... A linear regulator would be an insane waste of power!
Is that meant to be JunkTek?
Those exact words kept running through my mind, every time I seen it!
Maybe Junket
That's what I thought it said when I first looked at them!
no u
It turnes your tech to junk when IT crashes
3:30 e.g. stepper driver (CNC) are in this range
I've seen scratched out chips on other Chinese electronics, I believe they do it so other companies can't steal their design and make a even cheaper knock off.
It's a theory of course but since they do it on all products regardless of price level I think it does hold some water.
I suspect that on these super low price items the scratcing might be to conceal that the chips are actually name brand chips that failed QC and were meant to be destroyed, but which the Chinese manufacturer sold off cheaply (and illegally or at least gray zone) to make a few extra bucks.
@@reffyfikserting Do they actually do that? I've heard this before but never seen proof or sources that do it.
It's not the question if it can provide the output power. The question is for how long.
@@robertc1161 not only Chinese products. Just something that applies to everything that has to dissipate heat
The problem with all of these switching power modules is that they don't convert from the AC line, but require a high power DC input. Without a converter from the line they are useless as a bench supply.
Yeah, I can't think of any path to an isolated DC supply of that magnitude that doesn't at least double the cost. Even something like a few car batteries or used server power supplies in series add up. Still probably a screaming deal, but you have to keep in mind the price of a usable assembly here, not just the core component.
At 39:30 Dave plugged the RS485 terminal unevenly, I can't wait to see the brick fail when power applied
Yep, i saw that too
90 Vdc was also used for the old "farm" tube radio receivers from the 1940"s that used a 90 Vdc power supplies.
For testing higher loads, you could use a string of SLA batteries in series for the DC input supply, plenty of current on tap. Just 4 of them from a typical UPS will give you 48V.
The weirdness you were having seems like it could be from the voltage drop across your input wires. The voltage that ends up at the input is likely less than the minimum input voltage of 20V. How about re-doing some of your tests, but feeding it say 30V or more from your supply?
Dave, pretty please with ice cream, cherries and frosting on top; Give it the beans, FULL POWAAAA!
This would be perfect for a parralel resonance induction heating project for small parts I'm working on. It would be absolutely perfect if it works but as cheap as it is, it's still a good bit of money in the current climate (cough!) and I'd hate to be waiting around for 40 days (the stated max delivery time) only to find out it doesn't work.
-Charlie, a fan on the other side of the of the boarder lock down
At 23:00 one can see about 130-140 W on the R&S power supply, when 100 W are being pulled from the Juntek. That's
A lot of fairly high power audio amps have quite high voltage rails, I think a Sansui 9090 has +/-75VDC rails
That top to bottom Via stitching is probably significantly helping reduce the resistive losses, because the vias are filled with solder and hence can carry current laterally ie across their diameter! So instead of the current just flowing through the top and bottom layer copper, it can also flow inplane across each via, and as the via's are very close together, they will act as a reasonable, "conductor" of some equivalent thickness to the pcb itself (1.6mm) rather than just the thicknesses of the top and bottom traces (~ 0.07mm for 2x 1Oz layers)
The only educational content I get from this video is "electronic loads suck".
why 96V? propably because you can setup 2x48V power supplys in series.. it is cheaper than buy one 96V(or somewhere around that)
Can you put in series buck converters? I wouldn't want to try that.
@@unperrier5998 i think if they are isolated?
The interface on the remote box is very similar to the RuiDeng (RD Tech) stuff
junktek - WHAT A NAME!
Incredibly promising! :)
Very much like the very tasty very old desert.
Very much like the very tasty very old desert.
My first test for a power supply with maximum rated output voltage above 12V is to take it *straight* out of the box, take my #4 jumper wires with banana plugs or fork terminals (got both), and use those to hook up the output to my car’s battery. If some magic smoke escapes or if it doesn’t power up after that - I put it nicely right back in the box and ship it back. There were a couple HP supplies a while ago that didn’t pass that test, sadly. Can’t remember the model, sorry. This may sound like an arbitrary test but I really had very few problems with the models that were immune to being back driven from a source with a couple hundred amps of short circuit current capacity. It was my Hogwarts sorting hat for power supplies.
Old telecom rectifiers is the first thing that comes to mind to feed these little units. Not a problem finding something that can pump out a few KW!
Not trying to sound negative, but isn't it a bit misleading to call a buck converter a "power supply"? It's sorta like calling your car's transmission the engine.
A "power supply" at a bare minimum is one that lets you program the output voltage. A "Lab power supply" lets you set the voltage and current. This supply does both, so it's *clearly* a "power supply".
Just because it uses a buck topology is entirely inconsequential. In every linear lab power supply on the market is essentially a "buck", because it reduces and regulates the voltage.
@@EEVblog Don't you have to HAVE the voltage first? i have been looking for inexpensive 48 volt DC power supplies with 25 to 90 amp outputs for a few years now and they are pretty hard to find. And---- your title didn't say "Lab" Also, just for the sake of discussion, I'd say that "bare minimum" (YOUR term) should start with the Power not the controls. I don't have to win this exchange. I just wanted to give you my not quite novice opinion as a fairly regular viewer.
@@frenchcreekvalley they're pretty easy to find, get a used blade server PSU.
@@EEVblog - and Dave misses the point completely! This device doesn't take MAINS AC power and convert it to DC - it requires an additional *power supply* to operate!
At 17:45 you show the separate *power supply* that you used to test it with.
By that logic, wouldn't the electrical power plant be your power supply? Everything else is just transmission and conversion.
Appreciated the video retaining the UPs & DOWNs... it is real life after all. Good on you.
👍😎
You can get HP/Compaq ESP120 52V/57A(3kW) server PSU for around $50 off ebay.
You can search for 253232-001 instead.
Hi guys,
I just bought this device: the DPM8608-RF
I was wondering if you other owners have the same problems like me:
When turning on the device, the output is always short-circuited for a few seconds, during the boot-process (when the fan runs for a few seconds).
With the "Fast-speed discharging" function enabled, the output is short-circuited in the idle state (output off) continually.
This does not happen when the "Fast-speed discharging" function is disabled.
Only when the output is switched on (press OK), the output gives power like you would expect and there is no short circuit of course.
In both cases the charger is supplied by an external power supply and is switched on.
Secondly there are extremely high inrush currents on the input and output.It happens when connecting the charger to a power supply in the input side, when the power-switch is in the on-state. Also the device reboots every 2 seconds when the power supply is connected from a powerless state, and the power-switch was already in the on-state.It also happens when connecting a battery to the output.
Please watch my videos, by clicking on the following links:
1. "Fast-speed discharging" function enabled: photos.app.goo.gl/2Rjre5GXnTh81FZY8
You see a 18650 battery connected to the output of the device. I connected a little motor as a reference to visualize the short-circuit. When I turn on the device in de idle-state (no power on output), you see the motor turning, because it is fed by the battery in the closed loop. This is because the output is short-circuited.
2. "Fast-speed discharging" function disabled: photos.app.goo.gl/caLsksMpYfHZzR2r6
When powering on the deice, the motor is running for a few seconds and is fed by the battery in the closed loop. Again, this is because the output is short-circuited.
Impressive, particularly with that wifi toggle box included but I reckon an AC to DC converter that could play along at those power-altitudes, would take it to a completely another price ballpark.
The Chinese have a different measuring system. Divide by 10. So 2000W becomes 200W. Then add in a 50% safety margin. So the unit is good for 100W. Well not sure of the word 'good' there.
Lesson here: Dont send your stuff to Dave tests if it docent meet specs. Dave will find out.
did everyone not notice that he plugged the "mystery board" back in incorrectly?
yes, at 39:22
It was like that originally! Take a look a bit earlier :P
16:02 - almost looks like laser pulses were used to erase the chip faces. would make sense as it would be a rapid process to erase an entire board in a few seconds.
Should test the dynamic response of the power supplies, say 2A to 20A at 1KHz.
I'm waiting to see what color that bench mat will change to next. Brown?
32:32 I've tried on multiple occasions and have been unable to find cheap knobs without markers (mainly for use with rotary encoders) on eBay or aliexpress.
Hi Dave!
I thought especially you, would know that I and U are the official symbols used for Current and Potential (Voltage)
Btw, U comes from "Ursache" (yes, German for Cause!)
The units used are of course Ampêres and Volts.
Maybe it's your Language bias, as English uses V for Voltage, but it's really U (for Ursache!) internationally.
The Plastic of the remote looks like Polystyrene (I made in my youth many scals-models). A burn and smell test might give it away.
Good review!
I think Dave reacted to the mix of U/V and A/I on the display
@@nixxonnor that display, specifically, is correct!
The unit "A" (Ampêres) of the dimension "I" (Impuls, AFAIK) or current and the unit "V" (Volts) of the dimension "U" (Ursache, I always learned) for Potential or Tension AKA Voltage!
Last year I had the big luck to get a new, original packed
Cisco Systems PWR-C45-2800ACV Catalyst 4500 2800W AC Power Supply for less than 50 €
(2800W +3,3V/12,1A, -50V/28A, +12V/113,3A)
It is a power monster. It has no on/off switch but there are how to´s in the net.
Hi, there is fw updates for DL3021 series, overshort problems etc... We had problems one test device at DL3021 overshorting. Rigol send whole new unit and it was B revision.
The issue with the fan is that it is non-variable speed, and current-controlled not temperature-controlled.
96V at 10 amps is what my ALC 60x Ar-Ion laser needs. Nice to see this available.
Nvm.... these things should be as far away from a laser as possible...
96v is maybe for high voltage e-bike battery packs ?
60v is maybe for 48v - 55v lithium solar banks (50A for fast charging)
24S max
at 110v AC in the US... max residential power usage is about 1800W ... I think that's why most portable electric heaters max out at 1800W.
Good review. I could not read the SSD on the unit as the background LEDS were same as the active LEDS.
This looks like exactly the kind of thing I was thinking I might have to design from scratch, for charging a 48V battery bank with current limiting depending how much power is available from a Solar inverter, so I can be sure not to take a single Joule from the mains.
Well, it would if it worked.
At first look I read JunkTek. The remote control is for your distance safety when the thing blows up.
over here in the USofA you could probably get away with using a decently large auto-transformer to drop the mains and rectify it to get ~110VDC... only issue would be input/output would be mains referenced and not isolated in any way
You can use a transformer n rectifier set up from a treadmill. They use 130v dc motors. That could easily supply any of these the mains ac/dc power at decent amperage.
For Titanium anodization, the color is set by the voltage, blue is down around 20V, green is around 100V
Server "common slot" power supplies can be wired in series/parallel to create massive DC supplies. Check e Bay for a DPS-800. For around 20 bucks used, it'll put out 1kW with a 240VAC input and 12V at 83A output. They do current sharing so you can parallel them to make high current supplies. Open the power supplies up and by using fiber washers and/or nylon screws you can isolate the supplies so that they can be wired in series.
I've got six and by using the mating "hot plug" connectors (salvaged from some HP server backplanes), I can put them in one config for a 6kW 12V 500A supply (for testing car inverters), or I can put them in series as a 72V 83A supply to power a DeWalt 60V chainsaw. (I have it fused at 30A and wired with 10AWG SOOW wire but it's ice if I need to do alot of cutting.)
Oh yeah, they are NOT quiet but what do you expect for a server power supply?
I use 2 or these server supplies in series for a 25 Vdc 83 A source for my various buck/boost converters for bulk charging and testing. Bought mine for $15 each delivered, then did the magic with the pins to make them isolated. Nice 2000 watt supply 😃
Don't support manufacturers that erase chip markings
Please change the name. You can see JunkTek a mile away.
No.
I'm kind-of assuming that these things would never reach their rated 2000+W values and they are relying on the user not having a big-enough powersupply to power these things beyond their 250-ish W true limit
I usually divide any power claims on Chinese stuff by 2. If you get something that does what it says, then great. If not, it's very rare to be less than 50%.
I know that you sometimes need high voltage for laser diode banks or even normal big LEDs
96V 20A is good for most E-bike controllers and the new craze of e-unicycles if you need to slowly power on a controller for repair.
Anodizing titanium is a good use of precise higher DC voltages.
110v is a common voltage used in substations and switchgear automation in most countries
I have seen those black blob RF boards. In fact i have a bunch. The ones i have are nRF24L01 wire protocol compatible and similar RF protocol but not compatible due to differences in padding. So almost like they were aiming for compatibility and just missed narrowly.
Thanks for the video, Dave.
When I repair something or try out a new design I want one thing of my PSU: reliability!
A brand you do not trust or a dodgy current limit is the first step to blow up your hard work.
Thanks, but no thanks. This is the wrong place to safe money:)
sorry, but, it's *save. one can BE safe or have A safe, or one can save (on) something or save someone's life. (languages are weird, they are mostly not logical!)
The use for 96V cheap PSU, in my mind's eye, is obviously intended for the solowheel/e-scooter/powerbike/drone DIY market.
Yeah good DC/DC converters are getting cheap. But the expensive part will always be the AC/DC conversion (and doing it properly)
Well there's a lot of affordable 3000W server PSUs you can find online (48V 62A) at about US$70 to mess around a bit haha
Hello. The wireless module is a nrf24l01. I had a couple of them from ebay.
For a high power load, take some enamelled transformer wire or similar and dump a good length of it into a container of water - use the body of the water to soak up the energy. It's crude but you'll be able to ramp the power right up.
I like the way you analyze this equipment. You get what you pay for.
If you need to control a lot of current it's a good value. Non-isolated design isn't critical since the power supply that is running it should take care of the mains isolation.
I often use voltages between 60 and 120V to anodize titanium ;)
Interesting, I thought that was low voltage high current stuff?
@@EEVblog I guess it's like that for aluminium. With titanium you get colours with the oxide layer on it's own and the higher voltages colours are more resistant to fingerprints and skin oils, so thats what I use. Just google "titanium colour chart" if you are interested.
I would think you could use the higher voltages for working with strings of LEDs which can run in the 90v range.
RC electric ducted fan jet models can have up to 89 V nominal battery voltage (24S). 12S (44,4 V nominal) is very common. My big jets are 4 to 5,5 kW power at full throttle. I've wanted a cheap PSU for testing for a while.
Those wireless modules look like an NRF24. I have used them in some Arduino projects. You can buy them from LCSC (they even have the black blob) for 60 cents each.
lcsc.com/product-detail/Wireless-Modules_NRF24L01-2-4Gwireless-module_C90751.html
price become less impressive once you start searching for a 3kW powersupply with the full operating voltage to use these.
there are a bunch of server powersupplies for cheap if you can find or figure out the pinout, but they usually run at 12v or 42..48v for PoE applications, meaning you need multiple in series.
i got a 48v psu from some decomissioned 3g cell tower, its 1500W and tiny, but noisy as heck. powering a ruideng dps5020 for rough applications. my scope goes crazy when i turn it on.
a direct 110-240VAC input and galvanic isolation would be ideal for such power levels.
huge transformer rectifier and filter isnt good enough for the full capability, theres definately a bigger than 14v drop on full oomp, must definately be a switchmode psu
You could use an ATX PC power supply, they can pull dozens of amps on +12V rails.
Yes, but only on 12V.
@@anlumo1 24V if you series 2 12V rails.
@@pxidr They usually have a common ground, so that doesn't work.
Hi Dave. Time to buy a box of a hundred H7 car bulbs and 9 car batteries and plug'em in serial and parallel, like in the old times the electrical power car locomotive didn't have switching power drive.
Dave I needed a power supply to use directly solar power and they provide 78v 14a max so able to use 96 volt input is ideal
Well, 96V which is 2x48V - a very common voltage for power supplies nowadays.
I have too many power supplies. I've been picking them up whenever they were free or cheap for the past 60 years, and I worked in the electronics industry in Boulder, CO, where there are start-ups on every corner, with related dumpsters. And I've done work for government labs that are forever blowing up PS's. I sometimes think I'm the only person in town who can repair power supplies. I have old linear HP rack-mnt supplies, old Heathkit bench supplies, benchtop Agilent lab switchers, Lambda's, Acopian's, a 0 to 64 Volt, 0 to 10 amp programmable lab supply, 40 or 50 open-frame industrial supplies brand new in the box, NOS with old LM723 regulators and 2N3055 pass transistors, drawers of tiny, high efficiency SMT switchers, DC to DC converters, step-up converters, step-down converters, on and on. I think it's some sort of geek disease. I try to give them away, and I've given away dozens of wall-warts and brick module supplies and old linear supplies to maker-spaces and ham clubs, but friends find still more in dumpsters and FREE boxes at ham swaps and bring them by and drop them off. They seem to appear faster than I can dump them off on people. Sigh.
I do not understand why/how caps on the output can dump anything when the supply shuts down. That big cap will already be at output potential and will only be able to hold up the rail for a small time (and wreck-up its step response). There would need to be something that is storing energy at a higher potential that gets released after the regulation circuit shuts off. Perhaps the input cap gets suddenly connected to the output due to improper FET failsafe? I have seen it before where a micro controller brownout caused all the I/Os to change to default tri-state and that caused connected circuit to misbehave... badly.
tl;dr High-current medium-voltage supplies are not uncommon in analogue audio electronics.
Regarding 60-96V range, 90V used to be a standard for B+ dry cell batteries in portable choob radios. Don't know about its utility in modern electronics, but if you need to design for or work on old portable radios, the 96V jobbie could be the cockford ollie.
EDIT: I remember running across some high-power PA and musical instrument amplifiers that run on over 60VDC. If the transformer has burned out (obviously a common failure mode if electrolytic reservoirs dry out) a high-current 60V bench supply can be useful to test before sinking the money and time into buying new iron or re-winding the transformer.
The 96 volts may come handy in tv's backlights strips, of course no need for the full 20 amps in that application
Or driving high voltage motor stuff
@Dave Micolichek 90V DC motors are not uncommon.
That’s what I was thinking! My last TV died and I had no easy way to check if the backlight was working because it was like 75 volts or something. However, this is the only time I can think of where a 60-96V supply would have been handy for me
Dave Micolichek, it definitely depends on the model and maybe even the country. The last TV I took apart had a 57.8V rail for the LEDs
@Dave Micolichek But this one you can use for more than just a tv backlight
No offense but I am not giving China anymore my money if I can help it. I have used HP power supplies I have bought locally. Still great video Dave!
Agreed. Plenty of opportunities to buy from Japan, S. Korea, Taiwan, and even Vietnam. No excuse.
@Tone. I have some older American made HP supplies, along with a Power Design TP325 made in Palo Alto CA. But my favorite due to convenience is my HP E3610A which was made in Korea.
Also, I do understand these aren't buck converters like the one shown in the video. But I think that if possible, it is often worthwhile to buy retired commercial test gear over China made stuff.
What’s your deal with China?
@@SolidStateWorkshop If you have to ask that question then you're really out of touch.