I had a 99 4runner, 4banger. 287k miles on it, manual 4wd. It was great. Even when it broke down on the road, it always drove itself away. I welded up the frame for three years straight, stopped registering it, used it to pull people out of the snow banks up here. Then one year I was lying underneath the truck, cutting away rusty frame getting ready to weld some more, and I just stopped, laying on my back, staring up into the void of the framerail. I laid there for an hour before I finally moved, fishing my phone out of my pocket. From the cold concrete I called the scrapyard to come pick it up that afternoon, and then I texted my wife. I laid still under the truck until the rollback came, my last intimate moments with that truck that took such good care of me. It was time. The rollback came, and the little 4runner started right up and drove herself up the ramp. I still miss her.
At one point at our lives, we had that one car or truck that was special to us. I have yet to get mine but, I'm sure I'll have stories of my own when I do.
I only found your channel the other day and even as a non mechanical person I admire your skills and patience. No way I would remain as calm trying to fit my hands into those small places and awkward angles of the dangles. Thank you
As a non-mechanical person I own a 1977 Chevy truck, which requires me mainly to fit my hands into very big spaces and usually pinch, tweak or tighten something with my fingers or at worst a screw driver. Sometimes I cut a hose with a knife. Old people understood the KISS principle (Keep It Simple, Stupid.) They did not, sadly, teach it to modern car engineers. Edit: because I can't afford to run a 6mpg vehicle every day I also own a more modern car. But I take that to the shop even for a stupid oil change because I cannot get it jacked up to save my life. Or fit my fingers into its anything.
@@wigit2216 here in The Netherlands its to expensive to drive a old Chevy.. I would like one, they are affordable and simple to maintain or make it drivable..
So the frame rot is common? loved my 01 tundra but the frame was rotted so bad the rear end was only held together by leaf spring bolt. But the thing ran excellent for 289k miles.
Here's an idea that was given to me years ago. When you are taking out screws, bolts, and nuts in places where you can't get your fingers, put a magnet on the screwdriver or the socket. If the magnet is strong enough, it should hold the screw, nut, or bolt until you get it out.
I wish instead of crushing cars like this that they would send them to the rust belt states to be rebuilt. People up here in Ontario would pay a price premium for that body shell.
It's true. I'm in Arizona and my next-door neighbor sold his '96 Bronco to a buyer in Toronto at a premium price AND paid to have it shipped. The engine had nearly 300K miles and had recently developed a head-gasket leak, the interior was really rough, the paint was fading, but the body and frame were near perfect.
@@BrianW211Yeah, here they are dripping rust. I have a 2003 Dodge Durango with 230K+ miles that is in excellent mechanical shape but the body is just about shot. I might get another winter out of it.
Yup. The tin worm kills cars up North. Down South cars seem to end up victims of Florida Man. Right now I've got a 1989 Ford probe that needs brake lines and a filler neck...everything else works....the interior is actually clean. Can't be repaired, underside is nothing but crust. I'm surprised it didn't break in half.
@@BrianW211 The older Bronco's had 2 very desirable things, a body style many loved and 4WD which is huge in snowy areas. This Toyota will need it's tranny rebuilt and engine work to fix the massive oil leaks. At 281,000 miles might as well just rebuild the engine as well, for that kind of $$ you could catch a flight to FL or AZ and buy something that's older but able to be driven back home without needing to arrange for those extensive repairs.
I enjoy all your videos! I can't believe you stay positive and don't get to upset! If that was me I would be cussing like a drunken sailor! You my friend deserve every penny you make! You are a great Technician!
Just for clarification, Ray and not a mechanic. He is a technician. Back in the good old days, if you had a roll of duct tape, a screwdriver, and an empty beer can, you could get going again. Based on lots of experience.
@@davidbeanz3906 You are correct! I did change that in my original comment. I did not mean any thing bad. I am sure he went to school and got all his degrees! I am very impressed how good of a Technician he is! I would definitely want Ray to work on any of my vehicles If I lived in his area!
One thing that a lot of techs miss: On older cars with distributors, you never saw coil failures. That is because with a worn or fouled plug, the coil discharges on the next plug in the firing order. With distributorless ignition, if the plugs are excessively worn or fouled, the coil steps up the voltage until it overheats and fails. Whenever I replace coils, I also replace the plugs. It prevents a comeback.
Axtually, it's because in new coil-on-plug if the spark doesn't jump, the coil iron stays near saturation and the next pulse pushes it over into deep saturation, where it draws like 5 times the current and soon burns up. The old shared coils got a chance to de-flux on the next firing so they didn't burn up so much.
Distributor Ign coils died too. Don't kid yourself. I did lots of FM impulse mags. They had a strap inside them for a bleed when your wires cap/ rotor wires or plugs died so the spark could jump. The tricky part is to diagnose a mag coil for short to ground.
I have been watching your videos since the start of 2022. As a shade-tree mechanic in the late 80's then moving on to a 2 stroke technician in the 90's I am fascinated by watching you work. This video had me missing all the doo-dee-doos and clicks which are more often found in your later videos. I noted that you did not use power tools on this repair, and suspect that either you didn't have them yet or chose not to use. them. As there was that one loose bolt you went to town on with just a humble hand ratchet. That being said while I will not be working on cars in my future watching a professional who knows how to do a job is soothing to watch and listen. I note that you seem to have taken on the role of mentor for your viewers, that is cool. Teaching by example is the best method. While I won't be diagnosing no or hard start issues in any new vehicles I can say that thru your vids you have given me a great flow chart of where to start. Further by listening to your diagnostics you will inevitably be helping my local shop's technician with my ability to give them as much information as I am able to based upon how you would liked to have the "customer states" portion of the work order be less terse and more descriptive. So Doo-de-doo to you and keep up your intriguing videos.
I think that in that type of case analysis, the first thing is to connect the diagnostic tester. So you have a way or first idea where to begin. If not done at first, I think we can check everything and every directions. Otherwise, it is a channel that deserve more sub's, informative, real (no preparation). Thanks for all your work!
@@howy5799 air first thing i would check, make sure its getting air, then check fuel pressure, then test the coil(s), if all that were ok, pop the cover and check the valves. and too be honest i think the valve cover its leaking on that one, there's oil on the front and the back, i bet they never done a tranny service and the tranny running dry
@@levisvarela3735 the chances of an air leak or air being the problem in anyway is a lot less than ignition system or fuel system failure in my opinion, this is completely dependent on the symptoms of course but yeah in a general misfire kinda issue it would be ignition or fuel i would chase first in my opinion
Dude, you got me binge watching! I really appreciate your abilities. Your narration and choice of words are very entertaining. Great camera angles. Like that you do not perform too much off camera like a produced tv show.. Right on.. Keep em coming
Ray, as usual, awesome video, thank you. I like the explanations of what you think is wrong, how you are taking it apart, why you are checking whatever it is, and even the explanations of the smoke machine. Very informative. I wish I had someone like you in Tokyo who was just a knowledgable about Mexican built VW bugs. Thanks again and Happy New Year to you (I'm watching this during New Year's holidays.
Ray, Fantastic Channel. I worked as a mechanic P.T. while going to college mid '70's then F.T. in late '70's. Nothing worse than having to work on a HOT car, in the summer. I;m in upstate N.Y.
He got over 261,000 miles on that baby. Probably did'nt do enough maintenance on it but who knows? But look at the bright side; it goes down with excellent ingnition coils! Another nice video. Thanks Ray and hope your new shop is going good! Best to you!!!
I like how you have gotten more vocal in your commentary as your channel has aged. I love seeing your old stuff and the things that have stayed the same, but you have definitely improved your videos with your vocal thoughts and chatter as you are working on it. I love hearing your thought process as you work on things.
I gotta hand it to this gentleman, when he takes on a vehicle, he tackles any challenge a vehicle throws at him head on. I also like how he tries his damnedest to figure out what's wrong with the vehicle. He also tries to avoid selling the "parts cannon" to customers, unlike basically every shop in the country.
Let's see. Brake dash light comes on when the trans is trying to shift from 1st to second. What might be common between the trans and brakes? Vacuum to the trans modulator and brake booster. The brakes were mushy so that lends credence. I'm not familiar with that trans but if there is a vacuum modulator governing shift points that was your issue. Cheap fix and no scrapping the car.
Solenoid worked. There was probably just corrosion and gunk on the part of the motor where the brushes make contact. A few passes with super fine grit sand paper will make it good as new. May not be the problem every time, but still a good little trick for a tight budget.
Here's a thought on the coils before installing new ones. I myself would've just swapped the coil wires and try again to see if the code moved to a different cylinder. I'm not criticizing. I just found your videos the other day and can't stop watching them. I like the way you diagnose the problems. I'm not an auto mechanic, but I am a maintenance technician at a dairy plant. So I go through and see many different situations where I have to figure out what something is supposed to do, and what's not working. Ray, love your videos! Keep up the good work.
Those starter motors are the same as the ones used of the Land Rover TD5s. It's usually the solenoid that plays up and the motor remains fine. I've used the £7.00 rebuild kit on lots of them and saved to owners literally hundreds of UK pounds.
land rover.. i shiver.. still crap & ford made them craper.. td5 is the best engine,,in the wrong vehicle.. they are built/designed correct, but just not reliable or strong enough.. 1975 f250 highboy. 351c. 5sp. dana diffs.. hear that,,dana diffs.. zf gearbox, cleveland, 205 transfer. all, last forever..ausie..
It's a 23yr old vehicle with 281,000 miles on it, exactly what kind of "maintenance" was skipped?. It even took Ray, a very good mechanic, awhile to track down those bad coils. Truck's just worn out at this point.
@@creamwobbly But eventually father time wins out, even with the best maintenance. One could, if talented enough and with the proper tools, pull and rebuild the engine. Even for a Toyota you need regular oil changes to get 281,000 out of it, that's a trip to the moon!.
@Barry Ariello those 4-runners were fucking workhorses if you took care of them. My buddy had almost 400k miles before his brother decided to roll it derping around a construction site. A lot of Toyotas from that late-80s through 90s were fuckin bulletproof. My 90 Corolla had almost 300k with no issue until my buddy hit the shifter (there was no N to R lock back then you could go straight down R N D and back up without it locking) while trying to dig something out of the back seat. Wasn’t worth fixing.
It feels funny watching this video while changing the starter on my 2001 Tacoma 3.4 . That was a pain . It did last for 215k miles before it went out .
I think the worst starter ever was on a ~2007 Ford Focus (the sportier model) Your options are disassemble the entire upper half of the engine and everything in that area, the FSM - remove exhaust sections (lol oookay), or do it 100% blind by feel while engaging in contortionist exhibitions.
Good choice on owners decision. My 92 Chevy pickup has the ubiquitous 700R4 and I had mine rebuilt. (I bought it for secondary use on the ranch). It's a 350, which runs excellent, and now drives very nice. I bought it knowing it needed the trans worked on. Where I live in Kentucky, the cost was $900. The labor was $300. I'm happy 😁 I think vehicles are kinda like a house, in respect to keeping things in decent repair. There's always something to do, and don't abuse the thing. I've got 250, 000 + miles on it 👍
A little trick I know when dealing with a going out starter if you are trying to get it to start you want to turn the key all the way off before you try turning it again because when it goes from the lowest electrical draw to full current hitting the starter it has a better chance of starting, retry without turning it all the way off and u have less power jumping into the starter when u turn from ACC because the current is flowing to all your accessories, turning from off gives u a better rush of power literally, obviously fixing it works too 😀
Second of your videos i've watched so far and have to say that you're doing a great job. The camera is one of the trickiest things to deal with, especially on this concept being editing takes lead Great job. Keep it going
BS! He's taking the big piss! The fault tester told him it was a bad coil; Which is also %90 of the problem with these Toyota's...The oil ls most likely just a bad valve cover gasket...(Also, a know issue with these engines.) I knew it was a bad coil without even watching that far( And, no. I'm not a mechanic...) I guess the blame rests on the owner knowing nothing about his truck, or how to not wreck the transmission...Hint for anyone that owns a late model Toyota truck: You will need a starter, a spare ignition coil, and a valve cover gasket when you own either the 4 banger, or 6...Also, some undercoating of bar/chain oil to undercoat the frame/chasis...
Ray, you’re too hard on yourself. You’re a great mechanic, you draw a lot of people due to your personality. You don’t to to justify that you just installed o-rings on fittings because people didn’t see it. People can be jerks. It makes them feel better about themselves. Just be yourself, you’re very confident, don’t fall into the traps. That’s what jerks want. They mess with peoples minds. They’re more jealous about you and your Integriety. Keep up the good work. Let your personality shine. God bless you. Nelson
That's my engine! Mine also leaks, but not this bad. Mine is mainly from the timing chain cover gasket. I looked into replacing it. Hahahahaha! I paid less for the truck than the labor for replacing the timing chain.
@Foreverchanger I'm sloooow. I translate hours into days on labor estimates for DIY, so when I see something that takes a mechanic a day, which can be addressed by simply adding oil every thousand miles or so, I'm going to pass.
Digit the dancing queen. :) I worked for Mercedes 30 years ago as a line tech. Sometimes I miss it, most times I dont. I think what I miss most is the camaraderie, but I suspect it has changed a lot with modern sensitivities. After 10 years I went back to school and changed careers.
Ray, I totally enjoy your videos. I am so amazed at how people treat a very expensive piece of machinery like trash. I grew up in the auto business. My dad was a Firestone tire distributor. There was a small parts store and a small shop where tires were mounted etc. However I was taught how to take care of an automobile. I currently own a 2013 Mustang Convertible (purchased pre-owned) a 2015 Subaru Outback. and a 2021 Subaru Ascent. I do maintenance on my vehicles that probably very few do. I change the engine oil every 3 months, regardless of mileage (usually 200 miles or less. I have had the transmission fluid changed on both the Outback and Mustang (both very low mileage), the transfer case fluid and the differential fluid changed in the Outback, and recently the differential fluid in the Mustang. Cooling system services have been done, brake systems are flushed every 2 years. Currently I am in the process of having all the cooling system hose changed. My idea is to avoid break downs.
On the Subarus, full synthetic oil is highly recommended (I have a 2017 Outback and a 2020 Legacy), so it really shouldn't be necessary to replace engine oil every 3 months (even dealer recommends every 6). If that is how you like doing, then excellent, but if you ever want to save a few dollars and some raw materials, I think you'd be fine.
@@paulsmith9198 I am not interested in saving a little money. I am more interested in having non-contaminated oil in the engine. I drive such little mileage that moisture can build up, so I do extra maintenance to avoid problems. If I was not retired, and there was no pandemic, might change the oil less frequently as the oil would be circulated through the engine better. You never mentioned the other services I have performed. I grew up in the auto business and maintenance was drummed into me, and when I learned to fly, maintenance of the airplane was drummed into me. It is too bad that automobiles do not have Hobbs meters.
Right now as we speak Hondas and Toyotas were great cars in the 80s in the 90s when they were really putting the American car out of business nowadays they got just as much plastic they're just as junky is all the cars all the cars now or basically made the same they're not made in Japan anymore than made-in-the-usa okay so there's really no difference also Kia's are very good cars I own one that no problem with it I deliberately didn't buy a Toyota because I'm sick of hearing about them they don't last forever back then or now any car except a Chrysler will run a long time if you take care of it
Damn, I would pay top dollar for that 4runner. Put it on long travel stilts, thick 35s and a roof camper, maybe even cummins swap it. Dream car right there.
@@mandc20022 Same! I parted ways with mine for $600. It was a great car, ran amazing, had maintenance records for even lightbulbs, and never wrecked. I loved that lil car. My little neice nicknamed it Tiny Car too XD
Those starters are mostly bulletproof Have seen very few that actually were windings or armature or busing problems, what you had wad bad contacts in the solenoid. We replaced the contacts and the contact plate. We used to buy them in bulk like 50 of each contact and 50 plates at a time. Being a commissioned tech i always liked to get paid for rebuilding the solenoid then just replacing the starter. Saved the customer money because they didn't have to buy a starter and made more labor $$ as that's what I was paid from. I bet out of a couple hundred repairs of these types of starters I only saw 2-3 that were actually bad in the starter motor and not the solenoid.
Ive rebuilt a starter in my old 98....took 30 min and cost 3 bucks? they sell those little contact kits...better than a junk rebuild that wont last 4 months...
Based on all that sludge on the front it looks like crank seal was never changed when they had the timing belt(s) replaced. Haven't finished video yet but just a guess from what it looked like
I am so jealous! The first Gen tacomas the starter is under the intake! Such fun! Nicely done. Those coolers are cake to replace as well. No sweat there. Seen fjs roll through total leaking geysers and there still trucking down the road!
It's typically just the valve cover gasket leaking on these...The tranny was the dumb owner leaving it in 4wd at 70mph...Mechanics hate these trucks( obvious), because they are so reliable! Rofl: "Everyone has worked on this truck..." Nearly spit out my drink at that one!
There still is a fuel problem. The fuel pressure quickly bleeds down when it stalls or key off. Either a bad fuel pressure regulator, check valve on the fuel pump side or leaking fuel injector(s).
you may be right, but it's an old car with the transmission seized, so spending more money on a problem that causes no problems yet..... I don't think so
With basic maintenance. There are certain vehicles that will go forever with the proper maintenance...most Toyotas, Ford Panther platform, Honda engines will go forever but the bodies will eventually peel apart, brick Volvos, a few more.
28:05 I have no clue if it's a problem but the second ignition coil you replaced had a 2 & 3 on it and you replaced it with one that had 1 & 4 written on it. I can only assume the other ignition pack had a 1 & 4 and you replaced it with one with a 2 & 3.
you forgot the clamp on the hose you squirted the fluid into on the intake manifold. you can see it when you close the hood. easy miss. just thought I would mention that. you do awesome work and your videos get me into my overalls to go to work!lol
In case you ever wondered what "shop supplies" are when you see it on the bill: blowing through multiple cans of brake clean certainly qualifies... It seems oddly satisfying just blazing away with the brake clean...
Considering trying to get out of parts and into the garage as a tech. I havnt done it so far because I wasnt confident in my skills but these videos are making me realize im more skilled than the average joe
Take your average joe and think about how smart he is, then consider that at least half the people you meet are dumber than that. A lot of people are more qualified than they think, its just easier to shuffle average joes around because they don't question things near as often.
This reminds me of my 97 Grand Cherokee TSi (my 2nd) I got it at 144k miles and by the time it was at 280-300k, I'd already put a $300 junkyard transmission in, drove all over the southeast blah blah blah, I ended up driving that one to 360k miles and the harmonic balancer came apart doing 70 and tore up the front end, radiator, fan, alternator cracked and water pump shaft gave way. That was in December of 2012. After 8 years with the 2nd Jeep, I too had to watch it go up on the rollback 😢. I went from a Jeep to a 13 Nissan Sentra only in an emergency, I needed wheels right then and it worked out that I only had to put $500 down, but I loathed that little car, CVT transmission and all. It was gone by 2015. I did find another JGC in 2018, a 2003. Much bigger interior and they wonderful 6cyl 😉 I'm always checking marketplace for a good one.
33:36 - 33:41 Diagnostic marks on the road :D The shift at 35:31 on Palmer was brutal but I think its the sound echoing off 75 motorway . What a heap of a car. I think he made the right choice although the oil is going to be more expensive than the petrol / gas soon.
Came to the comments to see if I was the only one who noticed that. When you get in a hurry and worry about other things than your job, you forget shit. Just like he did.
Where did you see the numbers on the new coils in my experience the numbers only come on oem equipment if aftermarket puts numbers than they would have to have separate part numbers .. not impossible but stupid from a business standpoint
Japanese cars and trucks use to be the best. Back in the mid 80s I went from Glendale CA to NYC on a 1969 1.6 cc Datsun station wagon, customized like a sleeper. It took me 3 days with a friend stopping on every state lane to take s picture. My engine never overhead or had any issues. Those days and engines were just some of the best. Kind regards from BC.
Sounds like the previous owner that had my Civic before I fixed her up and all she actually needed at first was a radiator. Anyone could’ve looked at the radiator and known that.
I early diagnosed solenoid and a good battery, which was done (and needed). 14:00 in and problem not found until after. Back in the late '70s on, for fell on '58 to latish ''70s cars, we had a glass fuel pump where we could see the fuel colour and level. If asked by Rainman, I will post a funny tale of me (without their experience) vs a Professor and a Licenced Aircraft Maintenance Engineer. It's about "basic" diagnostics.
You didn't put the hose clamp back on. Saw it after you put tools away and closed hood. Oops. Maybe you got it at end. Just subbed and binge watching. So far great channel. I've been doing home auto repair for 35 yrs now.
Ah Ray I thought you would have seen the harness bracket you missed when bolting the starter back in. I waited to the end to see if you had gone back to mount it. Lower bolt. I suppose the harness was blocking your view of it. Still good work.
I had a 99 4runner, 4banger. 287k miles on it, manual 4wd. It was great. Even when it broke down on the road, it always drove itself away. I welded up the frame for three years straight, stopped registering it, used it to pull people out of the snow banks up here. Then one year I was lying underneath the truck, cutting away rusty frame getting ready to weld some more, and I just stopped, laying on my back, staring up into the void of the framerail. I laid there for an hour before I finally moved, fishing my phone out of my pocket. From the cold concrete I called the scrapyard to come pick it up that afternoon, and then I texted my wife. I laid still under the truck until the rollback came, my last intimate moments with that truck that took such good care of me. It was time. The rollback came, and the little 4runner started right up and drove herself up the ramp.
I still miss her.
Write a love book
That's so sad... And somewhat wholesome in a bittersweet way. Thanks for sharing mate!
You both took care of each other. I'm sure the 4Runner appreciated all the effort you put into keeping her in shape.
At one point at our lives, we had that one car or truck that was special to us. I have yet to get mine but, I'm sure I'll have stories of my own when I do.
yo I have a 96 with the same stuff on it expect its not rusty at all and Im replacing the head on it 351,000 miles
I only found your channel the other day and even as a non mechanical person I admire your skills and patience. No way I would remain as calm trying to fit my hands into those small places and awkward angles of the dangles. Thank you
As a non-mechanical person I own a 1977 Chevy truck, which requires me mainly to fit my hands into very big spaces and usually pinch, tweak or tighten something with my fingers or at worst a screw driver. Sometimes I cut a hose with a knife. Old people understood the KISS principle (Keep It Simple, Stupid.) They did not, sadly, teach it to modern car engineers. Edit: because I can't afford to run a 6mpg vehicle every day I also own a more modern car. But I take that to the shop even for a stupid oil change because I cannot get it jacked up to save my life. Or fit my fingers into its anything.
@@DaveC2729 no ones wants to buy a simple car anymore, and modern regulations and standards make in nearly impossible anyways.
@@wigit2216 here in The Netherlands its to expensive to drive a old Chevy.. I would like one, they are affordable and simple to maintain or make it drivable..
When I worked for Toyota the oil leak on that 4 runner is exactly what they needed so the frame didn’t rot out lol
Preach it, German Jesus
Yeah I wish mine had an oil leak in the tailgate.
Built in rust protection...
Automatic chassis oiler
So the frame rot is common? loved my 01 tundra but the frame was rotted so bad the rear end was only held together by leaf spring bolt. But the thing ran excellent for 289k miles.
Here's an idea that was given to me years ago. When you are taking out screws, bolts, and nuts in places where you can't get your fingers, put a magnet on the screwdriver or the socket. If the magnet is strong enough, it should hold the screw, nut, or bolt until you get it out.
I wish instead of crushing cars like this that they would send them to the rust belt states to be rebuilt. People up here in Ontario would pay a price premium for that body shell.
It's true. I'm in Arizona and my next-door neighbor sold his '96 Bronco to a buyer in Toronto at a premium price AND paid to have it shipped. The engine had nearly 300K miles and had recently developed a head-gasket leak, the interior was really rough, the paint was fading, but the body and frame were near perfect.
@@BrianW211Yeah, here they are dripping rust. I have a 2003 Dodge Durango with 230K+ miles that is in excellent mechanical shape but the body is just about shot. I might get another winter out of it.
Yup. The tin worm kills cars up North. Down South cars seem to end up victims of Florida Man. Right now I've got a 1989 Ford probe that needs brake lines and a filler neck...everything else works....the interior is actually clean. Can't be repaired, underside is nothing but crust. I'm surprised it didn't break in half.
Right
@@BrianW211 The older Bronco's had 2 very desirable things, a body style many loved and 4WD which is huge in snowy areas. This Toyota will need it's tranny rebuilt and engine work to fix the massive oil leaks. At 281,000 miles might as well just rebuild the engine as well, for that kind of $$ you could catch a flight to FL or AZ and buy something that's older but able to be driven back home without needing to arrange for those extensive repairs.
I enjoy all your videos! I can't believe you stay positive and don't get to upset! If that was me I would be cussing like a drunken sailor! You my friend deserve every penny you make! You are a great Technician!
HEY HEY!! Careful, some of us drunken sailors might be watching 🥴
@@NobodyOwesYouAnythin Sorry I am a factory worker and believe me I know all them big words Too! I meant no disrespect! Thank you for service!
Now that the coils are replaced and the starter works ... the transmission might be dead, probably making the owner discard.
Just for clarification, Ray and not a mechanic. He is a technician. Back in the good old days, if you had a roll of duct tape, a screwdriver, and an empty beer can, you could get going again. Based on lots of experience.
@@davidbeanz3906 You are correct! I did change that in my original comment. I did not mean any thing bad. I am sure he went to school and got all his degrees! I am very impressed how good of a Technician he is! I would definitely want Ray to work on any of my vehicles If I lived in his area!
One thing that a lot of techs miss: On older cars with distributors, you never saw coil failures. That is because with a worn or fouled plug, the coil discharges on the next plug in the firing order. With distributorless ignition, if the plugs are excessively worn or fouled, the coil steps up the voltage until it overheats and fails. Whenever I replace coils, I also replace the plugs. It prevents a comeback.
Good to know. My '96 Tacoma has nearly the same engine, but it was the last year for a real distributor.
Axtually, it's because in new coil-on-plug if the spark doesn't jump, the coil iron stays near saturation and the next pulse pushes it over into deep saturation, where it draws like 5 times the current and soon burns up. The old shared coils got a chance to de-flux on the next firing so they didn't burn up so much.
Distributor Ign coils died too. Don't kid yourself. I did lots of FM impulse mags. They had a strap inside them for a bleed when your wires cap/ rotor wires or plugs died so the spark could jump. The tricky part is to diagnose a mag coil for short to ground.
@@maxwebster7572 Say what you will, but in 30 years I have replaced one conventional coil and I can’t even begin to count the DIS coils.
@@brucecoleman7412 Maybe you get better cars?
I love watching smarter mechanics than me! Outstanding diagnostic skills, brutha!
There's so much oil under that engine, Chevron started drilling the hood.
There's so much oil the US has invaded!
And I thought that mine oil leak was bad (around 1qt evry 3-4k km)
When you open the hood it plays the theme song from The Beverly Hillbillies. lol
These comments are gold.... like black gold.
@@riseabove3082 black gold Texas tea
I have been watching your videos since the start of 2022. As a shade-tree mechanic in the late 80's then moving on to a 2 stroke technician in the 90's I am fascinated by watching you work. This video had me missing all the doo-dee-doos and clicks which are more often found in your later videos. I noted that you did not use power tools on this repair, and suspect that either you didn't have them yet or chose not to use. them. As there was that one loose bolt you went to town on with just a humble hand ratchet. That being said while I will not be working on cars in my future watching a professional who knows how to do a job is soothing to watch and listen. I note that you seem to have taken on the role of mentor for your viewers, that is cool. Teaching by example is the best method. While I won't be diagnosing no or hard start issues in any new vehicles I can say that thru your vids you have given me a great flow chart of where to start. Further by listening to your diagnostics you will inevitably be helping my local shop's technician with my ability to give them as much information as I am able to based upon how you would liked to have the "customer states" portion of the work order be less terse and more descriptive. So Doo-de-doo to you and keep up your intriguing videos.
“This thing has been worked on by everyone in town”
Sounds like a girl I used to know.
That Toyota has been through the trenches. Brake cleaner executed nice and shiny.
I think that in that type of case analysis, the first thing is to connect the diagnostic tester. So you have a way or first idea where to begin. If not done at first, I think we can check everything and every directions.
Otherwise, it is a channel that deserve more sub's, informative, real (no preparation). Thanks for all your work!
Nah. For that truck a 30 second google search is all that's needed...
@@brentfarvors192 got that right! You'll get right to the issue.
@@chrisburrell8489 ROFLMAO!
It is impressive that you are able to get your camera into a good view of every part of the jobs.
Ikr
I normally wouldn't watch a video this long but the troubleshooting process was interesting. Shame there won't be a part 2 for the trans and oil leak.
I suspect fixing the entire car would too expensive. But yes, Mr Stream, I would enjoy a tranny and oil leak repair.
To be honest my first thought was fuel, if this was a misfire this would be the first thing checked 😂
@@howy5799 air first thing i would check, make sure its getting air, then check fuel pressure, then test the coil(s), if all that were ok, pop the cover and check the valves. and too be honest i think the valve cover its leaking on that one, there's oil on the front and the back, i bet they never done a tranny service and the tranny running dry
@@levisvarela3735 the chances of an air leak or air being the problem in anyway is a lot less than ignition system or fuel system failure in my opinion, this is completely dependent on the symptoms of course but yeah in a general misfire kinda issue it would be ignition or fuel i would chase first in my opinion
Dude, you got me binge watching! I really appreciate your abilities. Your narration and choice of words are very entertaining. Great camera angles. Like that you do not perform too much off camera like a produced tv show.. Right on.. Keep em coming
Ray, as usual, awesome video, thank you. I like the explanations of what you think is wrong, how you are taking it apart, why you are checking whatever it is, and even the explanations of the smoke machine. Very informative. I wish I had someone like you in Tokyo who was just a knowledgable about Mexican built VW bugs. Thanks again and Happy New Year to you (I'm watching this during New Year's holidays.
Im convinced his videos are just a mechanic master class in disguise
"It shouldn't be too much trouble". Famous last words.....
Ray, Fantastic Channel. I worked as a mechanic P.T. while going to college mid '70's then F.T. in late '70's. Nothing worse than having to work on a HOT car, in the summer. I;m in upstate N.Y.
bolt by bolt videos are great because you get to see how pros go about the little things. That people think do not matter....but they do.
He got over 261,000 miles on that baby. Probably did'nt do enough maintenance on it but who knows? But look at the bright side; it goes down with excellent ingnition coils! Another nice video. Thanks Ray and hope your new shop is going good! Best to you!!!
4RUNNER transformed into a NORUNNER.
I like how you have gotten more vocal in your commentary as your channel has aged. I love seeing your old stuff and the things that have stayed the same, but you have definitely improved your videos with your vocal thoughts and chatter as you are working on it. I love hearing your thought process as you work on things.
I gotta hand it to this gentleman, when he takes on a vehicle, he tackles any challenge a vehicle throws at him head on. I also like how he tries his damnedest to figure out what's wrong with the vehicle. He also tries to avoid selling the "parts cannon" to customers, unlike basically every shop in the country.
You change out a starter using one hand. You do better work with one hand than most using both hands. Kudos
Let's see. Brake dash light comes on when the trans is trying to shift from 1st to second. What might be common between the trans and brakes? Vacuum to the trans modulator and brake booster. The brakes were mushy so that lends credence. I'm not familiar with that trans but if there is a vacuum modulator governing shift points that was your issue. Cheap fix and no scrapping the car.
Solenoid worked. There was probably just corrosion and gunk on the part of the motor where the brushes make contact. A few passes with super fine grit sand paper will make it good as new. May not be the problem every time, but still a good little trick for a tight budget.
That was really interesting! I enjoyed watching you troubleshoot that!
Here's a thought on the coils before installing new ones. I myself would've just swapped the coil wires and try again to see if the code moved to a different cylinder. I'm not criticizing. I just found your videos the other day and can't stop watching them. I like the way you diagnose the problems. I'm not an auto mechanic, but I am a maintenance technician at a dairy plant. So I go through and see many different situations where I have to figure out what something is supposed to do, and what's not working. Ray, love your videos! Keep up the good work.
Plugged exhaust gives you the same symptoms. To many mechanics forget there is four strokes not just three.
Loved this one , multiple faults and the difficulties that makes for troubleshooting but to a successful conclusion . Was indeed a very good video.
Those starter motors are the same as the ones used of the Land Rover TD5s. It's usually the solenoid that plays up and the motor remains fine. I've used the £7.00 rebuild kit on lots of them and saved to owners literally hundreds of UK pounds.
land rover.. i shiver.. still crap & ford made them craper.. td5 is the best engine,,in the wrong vehicle.. they are built/designed correct, but just not reliable or strong enough.. 1975 f250 highboy. 351c. 5sp. dana diffs.. hear that,,dana diffs.. zf gearbox, cleveland, 205 transfer. all, last forever..ausie..
Nylon washers in the solenoid wear down.
Oil saturated engines are a living he'll for mechanics. You handle it well. Not too many mechanics work with out their air tools. Good video.
Lol the owner probably tries their hardest to avoid the shudder as much as possible...and Ray just can't get enough of it
Wish I could, but have never been able to work with gloves on. Good work again.
Looking at this I'm just amazed how some people don't even have the ability to do even the most basic auto repairs/maintenance.
This truck suffered from bad maintenance you could tell
It's a 23yr old vehicle with 281,000 miles on it, exactly what kind of "maintenance" was skipped?. It even took Ray, a very good mechanic, awhile to track down those bad coils. Truck's just worn out at this point.
@@ryans413 Really?, how?, it's gone to 281,000 miles, a lot longer than 90% of the vehicles ever made.
@@creamwobbly But eventually father time wins out, even with the best maintenance. One could, if talented enough and with the proper tools, pull and rebuild the engine. Even for a Toyota you need regular oil changes to get 281,000 out of it, that's a trip to the moon!.
@Barry Ariello those 4-runners were fucking workhorses if you took care of them. My buddy had almost 400k miles before his brother decided to roll it derping around a construction site. A lot of Toyotas from that late-80s through 90s were fuckin bulletproof. My 90 Corolla had almost 300k with no issue until my buddy hit the shifter (there was no N to R lock back then you could go straight down R N D and back up without it locking) while trying to dig something out of the back seat. Wasn’t worth fixing.
I shudder to think what was wrong with the ignition. Great video thanks for sharing.
It feels funny watching this video while changing the starter on my 2001 Tacoma 3.4 . That was a pain . It did last for 215k miles before it went out .
I think the worst starter ever was on a ~2007 Ford Focus (the sportier model)
Your options are disassemble the entire upper half of the engine and everything in that area, the FSM - remove exhaust sections (lol oookay), or do it 100% blind by feel while engaging in contortionist exhibitions.
Good choice on owners decision. My 92 Chevy pickup has the ubiquitous 700R4 and I had mine rebuilt. (I bought it for secondary use on the ranch). It's a 350, which runs excellent, and now drives very nice. I bought it knowing it needed the trans worked on. Where I live in Kentucky, the cost was $900. The labor was $300. I'm happy 😁 I think vehicles are kinda like a house, in respect to keeping things in decent repair. There's always something to do, and don't abuse the thing. I've got 250, 000 + miles on it 👍
A little trick I know when dealing with a going out starter if you are trying to get it to start you want to turn the key all the way off before you try turning it again because when it goes from the lowest electrical draw to full current hitting the starter it has a better chance of starting, retry without turning it all the way off and u have less power jumping into the starter when u turn from ACC because the current is flowing to all your accessories, turning from off gives u a better rush of power literally, obviously fixing it works too 😀
Thanks for the tip! I'll pass it along to my wife, her van did this twice in the last couple of weeks. That'll give me time to replace the starter
Enjoy all your videos so far. Really like how you always stay positive even when faced with tough situations. 👍
That’s some good rustproofing under there! Multiple issues happening.
First impression: "Uh oh, I bet it's broken" - awesome statement !
Second of your videos i've watched so far and have to say that you're doing a great job.
The camera is one of the trickiest things to deal with, especially on this concept being editing takes lead
Great job. Keep it going
You sir are very talented, as well as having super powers being able to smell hydrogen as it is odourless I am extremely impressed
He might have meant to say hydrogen sulphide. from sulphuric acid H2SO4
@@jonka1 that's what it is. Just some people have to be smart a**es
He said battery. You can smell hot acid.. and it's flammable
BS! He's taking the big piss! The fault tester told him it was a bad coil; Which is also %90 of the problem with these Toyota's...The oil ls most likely just a bad valve cover gasket...(Also, a know issue with these engines.) I knew it was a bad coil without even watching that far( And, no. I'm not a mechanic...) I guess the blame rests on the owner knowing nothing about his truck, or how to not wreck the transmission...Hint for anyone that owns a late model Toyota truck: You will need a starter, a spare ignition coil, and a valve cover gasket when you own either the 4 banger, or 6...Also, some undercoating of bar/chain oil to undercoat the frame/chasis...
what he is smelling is hydrogen sulphide.
Great video…. Now take the plates off, park it next to the dumpster and call for a recycling pickup 👍🏻
Or just put that 'core' sticker on it.
@@PJBonoVox A good parts guy would have looked in the box before taking back .
@@PJBonoVox I laughed way too hard at this.
Ray, you’re too hard on yourself. You’re a great mechanic, you draw a lot of people due to your personality. You don’t to to justify that you just installed o-rings on fittings because people didn’t see it. People can be jerks. It makes them feel better about themselves.
Just be yourself, you’re very confident, don’t fall into the traps. That’s what jerks want. They mess with peoples minds. They’re more jealous about you and your Integriety. Keep up the good work. Let your personality shine. God bless you. Nelson
That's my engine! Mine also leaks, but not this bad. Mine is mainly from the timing chain cover gasket. I looked into replacing it. Hahahahaha! I paid less for the truck than the labor for replacing the timing chain.
@Foreverchanger I'm sloooow. I translate hours into days on labor estimates for DIY, so when I see something that takes a mechanic a day, which can be addressed by simply adding oil every thousand miles or so, I'm going to pass.
How did you get such a good deal on a Yota?
@@hothmobile100 it was previously owned by a teenager. I've spent more on parts than I spent on the truck....
Digit the dancing queen. :) I worked for Mercedes 30 years ago as a line tech. Sometimes I miss it, most times I dont. I think what I miss most is the camaraderie, but I suspect it has changed a lot with modern sensitivities. After 10 years I went back to school and changed careers.
Ray, I totally enjoy your videos. I am so amazed at how people treat a very expensive piece of machinery like trash. I grew up in the auto business. My dad was a Firestone tire distributor. There was a small parts store and a small shop where tires were mounted etc. However I was taught how to take care of an automobile. I currently own a 2013 Mustang Convertible (purchased pre-owned) a 2015 Subaru Outback. and a 2021 Subaru Ascent. I do maintenance on my vehicles that probably very few do. I change the engine oil every 3 months, regardless of mileage (usually 200 miles or less. I have had the transmission fluid changed on both the Outback and Mustang (both very low mileage), the transfer case fluid and the differential fluid changed in the Outback, and recently the differential fluid in the Mustang. Cooling system services have been done, brake systems are flushed every 2 years. Currently I am in the process of having all the cooling system hose changed. My idea is to avoid break downs.
On the Subarus, full synthetic oil is highly recommended (I have a 2017 Outback and a 2020 Legacy), so it really shouldn't be necessary to replace engine oil every 3 months (even dealer recommends every 6). If that is how you like doing, then excellent, but if you ever want to save a few dollars and some raw materials, I think you'd be fine.
@@paulsmith9198 I am not interested in saving a little money. I am more interested in having non-contaminated oil in the engine. I drive such little mileage that moisture can build up, so I do extra maintenance to avoid problems. If I was not retired, and there was no pandemic, might change the oil less frequently as the oil would be circulated through the engine better. You never mentioned the other services I have performed. I grew up in the auto business and maintenance was drummed into me, and when I learned to fly, maintenance of the airplane was drummed into me. It is too bad that automobiles do not have Hobbs meters.
The Outback doesn't have a transfer case. It has a center diff. instead at the end transmission.
@@paulgraumann2774 got that right!
Great work.. that shift from 1st to 2nd was painful to hear 😣
This was a great video. I thoroughly enjoyed watching. I keep coming back for more especially for Honda's and Toyota's. lol Have a great day!
Right now as we speak Hondas and Toyotas were great cars in the 80s in the 90s when they were really putting the American car out of business nowadays they got just as much plastic they're just as junky is all the cars all the cars now or basically made the same they're not made in Japan anymore than made-in-the-usa okay so there's really no difference also Kia's are very good cars I own one that no problem with it I deliberately didn't buy a Toyota because I'm sick of hearing about them they don't last forever back then or now any car except a Chrysler will run a long time if you take care of it
Thank you Sir. I watch as much as I can.
Damn, I would pay top dollar for that 4runner. Put it on long travel stilts, thick 35s and a roof camper, maybe even cummins swap it. Dream car right there.
ifs, no fkn good.. if your swapping the engine, why buy it.. theres better options. like,tacoma. sas, job done..
I'm jealous of your wobble extensions! I hate using my universal swivel; you can't get the socket on the nut/bolt
My avalon had the clicky starter. I just replaced it, and it ran fine. Never had any more issues with it, other than the 500,000 miles...
I had a 98 Avalon that I loved with 350k miles still runs like a sewing machine today (I wish I never had sold it)
@@mandc20022 Same! I parted ways with mine for $600. It was a great car, ran amazing, had maintenance records for even lightbulbs, and never wrecked. I loved that lil car.
My little neice nicknamed it Tiny Car too XD
Some of the vehicles you get into reminds me of my son's room when he was a teenager.
I do see a plug wire incorrectly installed on the second coil
Yes
He almost put the first coil wire on incorrectly and then switched.
missed it .. respect .
Same ngl it got to me so much like mannnn that coil plug aint on correctly
What amazes me is the number of people that drive cars with so many problems. Personally hate any tiny bit wrong. Here in UK anyway.
"Its got turd wheels" thanks, that made my day!
Those starters are mostly bulletproof Have seen very few that actually were windings or armature or busing problems, what you had wad bad contacts in the solenoid. We replaced the contacts and the contact plate. We used to buy them in bulk like 50 of each contact and 50 plates at a time. Being a commissioned tech i always liked to get paid for rebuilding the solenoid then just replacing the starter. Saved the customer money because they didn't have to buy a starter and made more labor $$ as that's what I was paid from. I bet out of a couple hundred repairs of these types of starters I only saw 2-3 that were actually bad in the starter motor and not the solenoid.
Ive rebuilt a starter in my old 98....took 30 min and cost 3 bucks? they sell those little contact kits...better than a junk rebuild that wont last 4 months...
Based on all that sludge on the front it looks like crank seal was never changed when they had the timing belt(s) replaced. Haven't finished video yet but just a guess from what it looked like
WOW, that old Ford Model A in the parking lot when you went to do the coils. I bet that was cool to see rolling into the shop
Love the non-fused power wire coming off the battery! 🔥🔥🔥
Fused main power leads are a fairly new thing. None of my vehicles had fuses at the battery till my 05 Nissan.
Pretty sure it was a ground to body
What are you talking about? The small wire is extra ground and the big wire goes to starter and they ain't supposed to be fused.
your troubleshooting was on point. thanks for the lesson
Don't forget that hose clamp for the power booster hose brother;)
There was bracket on the lower starter bolt too (5:48), after installing "diagnostic starter" that one was not put back as it was before (10:46).
he like your cpmment but did not say yes i fix it when i cut the video
Thanks for mentioning not to forget to disconnect the battery. Knuckleheads will try every single time
as we say in scotland, its fekin fecked mate, like fekin totally feked. turn it into something useful like beer cans.... great vid
I believe the correct expression is "This fecking fecker is fecked to fecking feckery".
I am so jealous! The first Gen tacomas the starter is under the intake! Such fun! Nicely done. Those coolers are cake to replace as well. No sweat there. Seen fjs roll through total leaking geysers and there still trucking down the road!
It's typically just the valve cover gasket leaking on these...The tranny was the dumb owner leaving it in 4wd at 70mph...Mechanics hate these trucks( obvious), because they are so reliable! Rofl: "Everyone has worked on this truck..." Nearly spit out my drink at that one!
There still is a fuel problem. The fuel pressure quickly bleeds down when it stalls or key off. Either a bad fuel pressure regulator, check valve on the fuel pump side or leaking fuel injector(s).
you may be right, but it's an old car with the transmission seized, so spending more money on a problem that causes no problems yet..... I don't think so
Love it.....fitting is a little crusty................ WHOLE CAR IS CRUSTY
RIP 4Runner, I almost cried at that ending. Still a better story than twilight.
My 88 Corolla had a similar issue... igniter coil, one of two... they guessed wrong the first time, nailed it next visit.
But Scotty said Toyota’s run forever!!!
With basic maintenance. There are certain vehicles that will go forever with the proper maintenance...most Toyotas, Ford Panther platform, Honda engines will go forever but the bodies will eventually peel apart, brick Volvos, a few more.
All 300000 miles
@martin edwards The 'rubber bands' are not difficult to replace. It's only expensive if you have to pay someone.
@martin edwards I was referring to the truck odometers said 265000 I believe is what saw . I have a 2003 that has 198000 tacoma .runs like a top
Toyota transmissions usually have issues between 200-300k mi some of them are worse than others and the 90s trannys were always worse than the 2000s
Reeeee you missed the tiny clamp on the intake hose. Great diag Ray, and I'm always entertained watching your videos. 👍👍
28:05
I have no clue if it's a problem but the second ignition coil you replaced had a 2 & 3 on it and you replaced it with one that had 1 & 4 written on it.
I can only assume the other ignition pack had a 1 & 4 and you replaced it with one with a 2 & 3.
lol i noticed that also, but it doesnt matter they are identical either way.
forgot to put back the wire harnesses bracket on the lower bolt of the starter around 11:38 and at 5:44 you see yes it was on the stater bolt
you forgot the clamp on the hose you squirted the fluid into on the intake manifold. you can see it when you close the hood. easy miss. just thought I would mention that. you do awesome work and your videos get me into my overalls to go to work!lol
In case you ever wondered what "shop supplies" are when you see it on the bill: blowing through multiple cans of brake clean certainly qualifies... It seems oddly satisfying just blazing away with the brake clean...
He's not spraying brake cleaner on plastic & rubber, it destroys them
Brake cleaner is really bad for your health.
Considering trying to get out of parts and into the garage as a tech. I havnt done it so far because I wasnt confident in my skills but these videos are making me realize im more skilled than the average joe
Take your average joe and think about how smart he is, then consider that at least half the people you meet are dumber than that. A lot of people are more qualified than they think, its just easier to shuffle average joes around because they don't question things near as often.
If you notice the brake light blinks every time it's just about the shift into 2nd I wonder why it would do that
This reminds me of my 97 Grand Cherokee TSi (my 2nd) I got it at 144k miles and by the time it was at 280-300k, I'd already put a $300 junkyard transmission in, drove all over the southeast blah blah blah, I ended up driving that one to 360k miles and the harmonic balancer came apart doing 70 and tore up the front end, radiator, fan, alternator cracked and water pump shaft gave way. That was in December of 2012. After 8 years with the 2nd Jeep, I too had to watch it go up on the rollback 😢. I went from a Jeep to a 13 Nissan Sentra only in an emergency, I needed wheels right then and it worked out that I only had to put $500 down, but I loathed that little car, CVT transmission and all. It was gone by 2015. I did find another JGC in 2018, a 2003. Much bigger interior and they wonderful 6cyl 😉 I'm always checking marketplace for a good one.
Oh we can all feel that transmission 😥
33:36 - 33:41 Diagnostic marks on the road :D
The shift at 35:31 on Palmer was brutal but I think its the sound echoing off 75 motorway .
What a heap of a car. I think he made the right choice although the oil is going to be more expensive than the petrol / gas soon.
The legend says that he never put the brake booster hose clamp back on place.
Came to the comments to see if I was the only one who noticed that. When you get in a hurry and worry about other things than your job, you forget shit. Just like he did.
there were a few things he did wrong, but yeah i thought about that too
He forgot the clamp on the starter also..:)
@@MrMaxEffort Wouldn't be caught dead letting this bozo touch my Tacoma...
I noticed that, too. When he closes the hood, you can see it’s still slid back on the hose toward the brake booster
Always entertaining and informative.👍🏻😎
Love how the coils are marked 1&4 and 2&3, even on the new ones. Could see it in video. But you swapped them so the next person will be screwed.
Where did you see the numbers on the new coils in my experience the numbers only come on oem equipment if aftermarket puts numbers than they would have to have separate part numbers .. not impossible but stupid from a business standpoint
Lol. Coils are coils. Any of them work in any hole.
I used to work on these trucks a lot . And i recognised the problem immediatly . It the transfercase that the problem in particular the chain.
But did he ever put the clamp back on the hose from the booster to the intake lol (hood closed with it pulled back)
Japanese cars and trucks use to be the best. Back in the mid 80s I went from Glendale CA to NYC on a 1969 1.6 cc Datsun station wagon, customized like a sleeper. It took me 3 days with a friend stopping on every state lane to take s picture. My engine never overhead or had any issues. Those days and engines were just some of the best. Kind regards from BC.
"This is one of those cars that's been worked on so many times that no two fasteners are the same." Did you find any drywall screws?
lol
Hey, drywall screws actually work pretty well. Have seen them holding bumpers on. Was impressed how good of a job they did.
@@brad3741 well of course, they work on plastic just fine, but you shouldn't use them on metal, and I wouldn't be surprised if someone has.
No drywall screws but some self tappers and a few standards into metric threads.
Is that bad?
Sounds like the previous owner that had my Civic before I fixed her up and all she actually needed at first was a radiator. Anyone could’ve looked at the radiator and known that.
I early diagnosed solenoid and a good battery, which was done (and needed). 14:00 in and problem not found until after. Back in the late '70s on, for fell on '58 to latish ''70s cars, we had a glass fuel pump where we could see the fuel colour and level. If asked by Rainman, I will post a funny tale of me (without their experience) vs a Professor and a Licenced Aircraft Maintenance Engineer. It's about "basic" diagnostics.
Also I thought the igniter was a separate module and not the coils.
I know Subaru uses an igniter and coil system but I'm not sure about Toyota. I mostly work on German cars. Cheers from Jackson Mississippi
You didn't put the hose clamp back on. Saw it after you put tools away and closed hood. Oops. Maybe you got it at end. Just subbed and binge watching. So far great channel. I've been doing home auto repair for 35 yrs now.
spent the first twenty minutes just trying to start it.
Great process of eliminating what is not wrong. Nice troubleshooting
Hydrogen is odorless. You smell Sulphuric acid (Hydrogen Sulphide).
Yea tire right
Ah Ray I thought you would have seen the harness bracket you missed when bolting the starter back in. I waited to the end to see if you had gone back to mount it. Lower bolt. I suppose the harness was blocking your view of it. Still good work.
With the "proper" scanner, you would have clearly seen that the problem was the rear muffler bearing.
...or it was the single acting bangle flam that was causing all the heartache.