TRUFUEL put to the TEST and IT FAILED! These canned 2 cycle fuels make me tons of money at the shop!
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- Опубликовано: 20 авг 2022
- Today we tested Trufuel and SEF canned fuels. The results will SHOCK YOU!
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My name is Bre. I took two years of small engine repair at the local college. When I left school, I fell into a wonderful job at a local small engine shop where I worked the counter for a couple years. In 2010 my husband and I opened up our own small engine shop in central Arkansas where I am able to work alongside my family and best friends. We see over 2,000 pieces of small engine equipment every year, and answer 1,000's of small engine questions. We specialize in brands such as Briggs and Stratton, Kohler, Echo and Shindaiwa, but work everyday on MANY other brands like Stihl, Husqvarna, Honda, Craftsman, Remington, Red Max, Troy Bilt, Scag, Bad Boy, Hustler, World Lawn, Poulan, Mantis, Etc.. Hopefully, my experience I share, will save you Time, Money and Frustration in the future!
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Although very informative, these videos are for entertainment purposes. Please use all possible safety precautions when repairing and operating your small engine equipment. 
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Bre, Fun fact for you: In Alaska the winter temperatures can get mighty low. Ethanol "freezes" at a higher temperature than gasoline (especially if it has sucked up some water along the way) and since it could be a critical, life threatening OMG thing, a decision was made to not market fuel with any Ethanol in it, statewide. ALL the gas sold in Alaska is Ethanol free.
Well ethanol freezes at -`173 degrees Fahrenheit, so that aint the reason that Ethanol isn't used on Alaska. The freeze point for gasoline is -100 F, so ethanol actually freezes a lower temp than gasoline freezes. Also,, while ethanol supposedly not added to gasoline in Alaska, I have acquaintances who have run ethanol tests on gasoline and have found ethanol in gasoline ... even though it's not supposed to be there.
I wish New York State did the same thing by banning ethanol fuel. Lately when I was running my 2015 Silverado on 87 E10, it was running sluggish and was hearing excessive valve tick. Since running 91 non-ethanol, those problems have gone away.
With its ability to draw water this makes sense. Interesting thanks for posting this
Ethanol laced fuel loves to absorb water. And there is a bunch in the air in Alaska. That is is freezes. I wish that crap was never put in fuel.
I work on a fuel barge that brings, gas diesel and jet into SE Alaska. I can say we bring no ethanol into Alaska. I know it does get delivered to anchorage sometimes as just pure ethanol. Generally it gets mixed at a tank farm .
Switched to canned fuels for all gas operated equipment in the fire department. No more issues caused by ethanol on any equipment that has sat around. Eliminated the issue of stabilizer and mixing in oil on two stroke machines. It works for us.
You are the poster child for "Why canned fuel?" When you need it to run and lives depend on it, need I say more?
We did the same thing for our chain saws and K12 saws.
I have a small generator that I only use for emergencies, ie power outage during hurricanes etc. This generator runs my sump pump. Sorry, not going to be outside in the dark, in a hurricane, knowing my sump is on the verge of overflowwing, screwing with this thing because I cheaped out on the fuel. Few cans of TruFuel in the garage is insurance, and well worth the cost.
Use the canned fuel in all my new equipment. Never had an issue with it.
Almost all quality two stroke mixes have stabilizer. Unless storing equipment ethanol gas will be fine. If storing I would find ethanol free pump gas before can gas it can be really inconsistent I prefer to mix my own.
The biggest problem that I have seen with 2 cycle fuel is that people do not shake up thd mixture they made themselves or the pre-mixed stuff before using it everytime. The oil will seperate from the gas after awhile. You have to shake up the mixture.
Correct. The same applies to auto oil with the additives. I also use non ethanol gasoline when I mix my own fuel and even in my 4 stroke mowers.
I have used TF for years, after watching your video, I switched all my yard equipment to Echo Red Armor. All my equipment run so much better, start easier, my old Stihl BR320 with no primer bulb has always been difficult to start, but now, it starts faster, runs much better! Thank you for the fuel tip!!
Been running trufuel in my trimmer, blower and chainsaw for about 10 years. Never had any issues, all start on 2-3 pulls. Just pulled out the chainsaw last weekend on a rental, hadnt used it in about 2 years, fired right up and ran great. Works great for me.
Me too.... used trufuel 50:1 in my 2010 echo string trimmer and blower exclusively since new... never a problem. Also use the stihl motomix in my 2013 251 chainsaw (which leaks bar oil). I like the Trufuel for convenience even thought its EXPENSIVE when you price it out per gallon...
Same here.
I have used trufuel for many years, since the early 2000’s, and never have had a problem. I also am a small gasoline engine technician, school trained, and been in the field for nearly 50 years. I had many customers come in with gummed up fuel systems, and fuel lines, carb diaphragms, and even engine seals leaking because of ethanol fuel had eaten them up. I started using trufuel on my own equipment first, and was amazed at the results of easy starting, and easy maintenance on my chainsaw, leaf blower, and gas trimmer. I live in the northeast, and that may be some differences, with climate, and gas supply up here. I will still recommend using the product.
A technician and an actual mechanic are two totally different people. A tech will only do what THE BOOK says to do, a mechanic will fix the equipment.
I agree with you Steve! I too have used it for years, my lawn equipment never fail to start and run, plus I'm not having to take them to the shop to be repaired. What really sold me on tru-fuel was my gas pressure washer. I don't use them all the time and that is the problem, so they sit and then they won't start. And because they are pull start and don't want to start after a few pulls, that gets old real quick. They can sit for 6mo. and start right up! I have a little advantage, I can just add the cost of a gallon to my bill. I love the fact that there is little to no maintenance and down time. Thank for the info!
I agree
I too agree with you Steve. I live in Texas and I was taking my lawn equipment to a little shop to get themed serviced for quite a while. I have always used regular automotive fuel. Finally, the service man picked up a can off his shelf and said that would solve my problems without bringing them back to him. He said the local fire department comes by regularly for a case or two for all their emergency equipment like their chop saws. Never fail no matter how long they are stored. That was all I needed to here. When I switched to those exact brands shown, my carburetor problems stopped in all my 2 cycle and 4 cycle lawn equipment. I have not noticed any performance issues for years and no more shop visits. Also, I stored a lawn more for over 2 years and it started on the first pull. I was pleasantly surprised.
Same here. I've been a small engine mechanic since the early 90s and recommend canned fuel of the customers choice. We happen to sell Stihl Moto-Mix because the shop I work for is a Stihl dealer . We recommend using ethanol free fuel trreated with fuel stabizer to our customers who don't want to buy canned fuel. I'm here in rural central N.Y. and that every region in thr US has it own set of fuel issues.
Thank you for these videos. I purchased a weed eater off facebook that a guy was selling, hard starts supposedly. The guy said he just had it rebuilt but it was giving him issues, I remember seeing the canned fuel in his garage as well. At the time this was my first foray into mixed fuels so I picked up two cans. Pulled the carb, cleaned it, put it back together and tossed some Trufuel. Started once, ran for about 5 mins. Turned it off...wouldnt start again. Pulled carb, cleaned it again, same thing...would start the first time after 15 or so pulls but would never restart after that. I put it away and didn't look at it again. Then I ran across your videos about the canned junk. So I mixed my own fuel up using 87 and a can of oil. It started on the second pull. Ran it for 5 mins, let it cool down, went to start it again...fired right up. Let it sit for a few days, went back to start it...fired right up after the 1st pull. No more canned fuel for me.
Been a Trufuel user for a while and it's been great for my small engines to go from season to season without issue. However, my string trimmer hasn't run great for the past few years. Based on this video I switched to Echo red Red Armor - WOW what a difference in performance. The change was remarkable - Great tip Chickanic
been working on 2 cycle engines for over 40 years and ever since TRUFUEL came out its has been the fuel of choice. It's an excellent blend. However, any engine that has been tuned to ethanol fuel will need to be adjusted to this fuel and that is why rpm issues exist until done. As for winter, always use a fuel stabilizer if it to be stored with fuel in the tank.
Thanks for pointing this out! I was yelling at the screen... Retune, retune, retune! Even changing brands of the same type gas may require a retune to max performance... Also no mention of having the test machines all fully warmed up, didn't look that way, maybe they were, reguardless... Extremely junk test, invalid results. You have lost credibility with me and many others I expect.
dont think this gal understands this! plus she sells stihl which makes her a dumb ass in my book! worst equiptment sold! its garbage except fot the br400
@@jbhh79 she didn't lose and credibility with me ,, it's always nice to see how other people test stuff ,,those 2 pieces of equipment were relatively low RPM for a 2 stroke most trimmers are 9000+ rpm and most modern chainsaws 12000+ RPM no load speed ,,i had to retune all of my saws and trimmers when i switched to the canned fuel
I have good results out of either brands that was tested she used. I have had know problems. I use it for storage mostly because it's very pricey for full time use. I use gasoline and the sthil ultra premix oil at the 50:1 at full time use. I don't store any of my equipment with gasoline no more with any brand of fuel stabilizers no more. The trufuel has been fine.
you are correct -a small adjustment is all thats needed. she is way off base here
I don't know about this one. I have been working on engines of all kinds for almost 60 years. You have more experience with more 2 cycle working engines and I respect your opinion and your videos are very good. Not sure about your view on this subject. I have a Husky 262XP chiansaw, had it about 25 years and I live in the mountains of Utah up at 8000 feet. It a strong saw and has cut tons and tons of wood over the years. BUT, after sitting it was always a beast to get it running after storage over the winter. I tried draining it, putting in fresh fuel before storage but, not matter what I did start up was difficult after the winter. I went out of the way to get non-ethanol fuel, 20 miles away, no difference. I gave Trufuel a try and for the past 5 years it always starts right up even in winter cold. Has it lost a few RPM, I really don't notice but even if it has the saw now always start every time so I give TruFuel a thumbs up. .
Everyone who talks about Trufuel in cold environments thinks its great. I think the real issue with it is after the temperature reaches 120F something decays in the fuel and ruins it
Great job! 😄
You go above & beyond for your customers.
Thank you very much for the info, you just confirmed my suspicion about this fuel. I’ve used it in a craftsman chainsaw about 30 years old and started having trouble with it immediately. Thank you!
I have been using TruFuel both mix and 4cycle for about 5 years now but only before putting away for winter. Never had a problem in the spring with startup. Now that I am living down south, we have non-ethanol available so I don't have to do that anymore. After moving south and having put the TruFuel in before winterization in 2020, started my 12yo pressure washer after almost 2 years and only took 2 pulls. Ethanol is definitely the enemy of any engine that has to sit idle for an extended period. JMO. Thanks for another video.
I used to use Trufuel with no issues at all, for years. I switched to ethanol free pump gas with Amsoil Saber mixed 80:1 in everything and it all runs SO well with no smoke.
I’ve been using that 50:1 because it’s convenient. I don’t have to mix. Also I’m a homeowner and don’t use my trimmer for business. It’s great that you do this.
I've been using Tru Fuel for about 10 years. Hardly any problems. It's a miracle for engines that have been neglected.
how is it a miracle?
Miracle by marketing
@@kevinragsdale6256 ethanol tends to damage carburetor diaphrams.
Too expensive
I always store my two 4 cycles lawnmowers with a full tank of E10 gas over the winter and have never had issues.
I stored one chainsaw full of truefuel 50:1 mix and I had to clean carb this spring.
I stored other chainsaw empty for 15 years hanging in non insulated building and it fired right up with no issues.
I've mixed my own 2 stroke fuel for 45 years. I've always used 100 percent gas. I switched over to true fuel last summer, things seem to be running fine.
I have no experience with it due to the fact that I could not get past the price of it. It would be worthwhile for a lot of homeowners to use to prevent issues with gasoline only fuel usage and ethanol fuel issues in seldom used equipment. These users would end up saving money and aggravation.
I love watching you and learning about the difference between the ⛽ for the small engines
All your videos are so accessible. Really appreciate that!
Bought my new Echo engine with attachments ( line trimer, blower, and edger ) over 5 years ago. Nothing but Trufuel since day 1. Original plug, starts easy every time. works perfectly .
I'd rather jet for true than gum the carb I'm with you bub
Can you truly say perfectly? Unless you do a side by side comparison and test like she did, you really can't. Maybe yours is or maybe slightly off and you wouldn't know any different as it's all you've used since day 1.
I live in Canada so all my 2 and 4 stroke engines get treated to Trufuel for about 6 months of off season storage. I’ve never in all the years I’ve used it had engine running problems. I highly recommend it.
Just use Shell Ultra Premium (ethanol free) , add stabilizer and you'll be good to go. Forget the canned gas, it's just a scam. The key is not to have any ethanol in the fuel which separates over time and stratifies.
@@RSole9999 ethanol free fuel is banned in Canada unfortunately.
@@scottfraiser6768 ethanol free fuel is not banned. Almost all premium at most gas stations is non ethanol.
Just purchased new echo string trimmer and leaf blower. I’ve since only been using TruFuel in both and after watching this video realized both were running exactly like these units with the same fuel. I’ll definitely start mixing my own.
I have a small 2 stroke generator that I could not get to start at all. I had been using true fuel after watching this video I changed over to a different oil/fuel mix and the generator would start on the third pull. You saved me money ( not having to take it to a repair shop). Thankyou
When I bought my Echo PAS string trimmer about 6 years ago, the dealer tested and tuned it and told me to always use Trufuel, which I've always done. I have a small farm and put tons of hours on it a year, at about 1-1/2 tanks per session. It's always run flawlessly. My only complaint is the expense. No issues with idle or top speed RPM but maybe because it was tuned for Trufuel from day 1. I really appreciate your channel and do all my own maintenance / repair, so it's a big help. Currently resurrecting a 10 HP Tecumseh on a chipper-shredder.
How can you say you haven’t had low rpm problem when you’ve only run trufuel. You wouldn’t know you’d given up 300rpm.
@@fastinradfordable He said it was tuned for that fuel. Even if it is Idling a little slow, after 6 yrs, is it really a problem? I personally don't give a flying crap about idle rpm, as long as it stays running, as it's only there for a few seconds. I used to cringe at the start of every season wondering which carb would have to have a kit put in or the fuel lines or primer/purge bulb replaced. Not a single issue since I went to canned fuel. As for my stuff, Maruyama, I have great throttle response and power. No plug or muffler deposits like I used to see either. But I can't speak for other brands of equipment. For what it's worth, I was VERY skeptical of canned fuel for years before I jumped. One trip to the repair shop pays for a lot of canned fuel. Down time is a killer too. Knowing it will always start is even more valuable to me. I look at it like insurance. It's worth it.
For the life of me I don't understand why all you people fall for that expensive canned gas nonsense, just get a 5 gallon gas jug for all your lawn and garden equipment, put ethanol neutralizer in it and use it for all your lawn and garden equipment, when you need 2 stroke fuel just draw the gas from your 5 gallon jug.
@@dukecraig2402 Because those products are snake oil. They don't do what they advertise. See Taryl Fixes All fuel treatment long term tests. They just don't work. He pulls the float bowls off and inspects them. The only engines that had no issues or crap in the float bowls was with the canned fuel. The rest of the fancy additives didn't perform any better than plain pump gas. Some were worse.
As for the extra cost, it pays back most of that in reduced repairs, down time, and extra equipment that must be purchased when the others are down. For those who burn a LOT of 2 stroke fuel, I recommend running whatever you like but at storage time, run them dry then run them on canned fuel before storage to flush the pump gas out of the fuel system. But consider a landscaping business. A machine goes down. Now you have to get another $$$. So there is several hundred dollars. At least 100 to get yours fixed. And time to go buy and drop off and pick up. That adds up to a lot of money you wouldn't have had to spend if you used the canned fuel. Some outfits buy it in quantity and get a better rate than at the box stores. For them, and me, it's money well spent. It's essentially insurance. That's just my opinion. Your mileage may vary. Go with what works for you.
@@mikemorgan5015
I started using ethanol neutralizer and all my ethanol related problems disappeared, no more rotted bulbs and fuel line and I could let 2 stroke mix in both a jug and equipment sit over the winter again and things would fire right back up the next spring, matter of fact a month ago I got a 2 year old jug of chain saw fuel out and we ran the entire thing through my buddy's new saw he just bought.
So some guy can say whatever he wants in some video but my experience tells me different.
Back when I did landscaping and worked on these small engines I found you have to tune the equipment to the fuel you use for the best performance, regardless of if you mix your own or buy canned fuels, even getting fuel to mix from different gas station can change the way they run. Personally I bought ethanol free gas from the gas station and mixed synthetic 2 stroke oil and ran it in all my equipment, during the off season I would actually run tru fuel though my equipment to store it
you have to tune the equipment to the fuel you use..
ok how would you like to do this?? any of the newer carbs are factory set and can not be touched.
@@hartsfire5706 You can if you know how.
@@hartsfire5706 not true. If you look they have a tampering shield on the
Adjustments . Usually you can remove these and gain access to them . Note some company's will void there warranty for removing these .
Bingo !!
@@Portuguese-linguica this may have been true 10 years ago or even 5, but you need to look at the new junk. fixed jetting there is not changing them.
I've used Trufuel for storage purposes in my Craftsman lawn tractor and have had no issues.
Love your videos. I purchased two Husqvarna 128LD trimmers; one dedicated for edger and the other for trimmer. At time of purchase; approximately 8 years ago; the factory warranty was doubled if I used Husqvarna Premix Fuel. A no brainer for me. I have used this fuel the entire time; in addition to using it in my Sthil Blower; with never an issue. all my equipment is used residentially and kept inside shed. After sitting through the winter; I live in Georgia; everything will start generally with two to three pulls and then work flawlessly throughout the mowing Season. BTW; I purchased a John Deere D130 in 2012 and have never had an issue. I do service more than recommended. Thank you for all the good work you do.
I run trufuel 40:1 in many of my chainsaws with no problem. Agree with the comments on adjusting the carb to the fuel. Many of my saws the carbs adjust themselves (husqvarna autotune). The real message to the homeowner or casual user of 2-stroke equipment should be to not mix low octane ethanol fuel at the pump with junk oil. You will suffer worse then low rpm. Buy any of the premix fuels-trufuel is fine, husqy or stihl premix are great. Adjust that carb accordingly.
Ethanol fuel does not do well in small engines. My Stihl chainsaw calls for 91 octane.
I've been using the synthetic stuff for about 30 years. The stuff that you mix the one little bottle or tube to one gallon of gas. My 2 cycle equipment has run for many years without problems. And they're all different ratios from 16:1 to 50:1. I wouldn't use those premixed fuels just for the price alone, but now I have a better reason. Thanks again.
I've worked on engines of all types for over 40 years now and you are correct, there is something going on with the fuels. I run 40:1 in all 2 strokes without oil injection. I've saw a lot of cold seizures with folks running 50:1, not necessarily due to the mix, but due to not letting it warm up properly and pinning it cold. People could save a lot of money and headaches if they would just let things warm up properly before running wide open.
As a 60 year old man of upper mi heratage I concur
I'm also curious if people are buying old cans of premix that have gone thru most of there shelf life in a warehouse or on a store shelf they pick it up thinking it's got 5 years when it really has been expired for 5 months
Im 14 yrs old and live in los Angeles and never held a chainsaw and i say your wrong
Yep,--- save so much headache by just letting it warm up
I have been running VP fuel and have no issues. I run Amsoil Saber 100:1 and it has been working great since Feb 2018. I like the hack for the oil in the fuel tank. I just replaced the diaphragm on my echo cs-355. I bet that I wouldn’t have had too do that. Thanks for the great videos.
Thanks for showing these results. I had always looked at these Home Depot shelved pre-mixes as being made for homeowners who only utilize their equipment once a week. I never realized that pros would actually pay $32/gallon for the convenience of pre-mix.
They don't do it for the convenience. They do it for reliability, reduced maintenance and reduced downtime. Fuel is cheap, even at that price, compared to man hours. Be careful those "gallons" are often only 100oz in a "looks like a gallon" can.
I run a lot of small engines, and if I get a 5-gallon drum of pre-mixed, ethanol-free gas for $63, you best believe the lack of headache and the consistency pays for itself.
But mainly it's to stick it to the Man.
@@samuelluria4744 HAHA!
Hmmm strange findings. I took my Stihl chainsaw to a Stihl Authorized dealer because it was near impossible to start. He said "It's probably your gas. He drained the tank, dumped in a can 50:1 TruFuel... and it fired right up. His recommendation was I never put gasoline of any octane in it and said... "I know its expensive but if you stick to only using TruFuel you'll never have a problem." That was well over 5 years ago and I've never looked back. Has always worked great for me.
same here I use tru fuel all the time and never once had a issue..
Same here...
I also have only been using canned fuels (tru fuel, vip, and some other brands) for about 20 years and never a single issue.
Husky gas is the best. 100% ethanol free true fuel is up to 3% ethanol I believe.
Great video, I only use Motomix in my Stihl products. I started to use it when it first came out. The Fire Department only used Motomix in their rescue saws and never had any problem. I am sure there are other good ones, but Motomix has never failed me.
Using ethanol fuel I damaged two trimmers. The Tru Fuel has worked perfectly on my two-stroke equipment. I had a lot of trouble getting a consistent mix by doing my own mix. I've been getting zero-E Super for my motorcycle and lawnmowers. They love the stuff. So I may try mixing the zero-E with oil and seeing what happens. But I really like the idea of just having premix and pouring it in.
Have used “Recreational” (non-ethanol) fuel with 89/90 octane for several years and have not had issues - other than quick, dependable starts - and less repair issues. Still use stabilizer for insurance, as most of our equipment sits 6 months or more each year (44 year old Trac Vac sits 10 months out of the year and starts on the first or second tug). Cost has gotten as high as $6.49 gallon, still cheaper than any canned fuel products.
I’ve had the same experience as you with the recreational fuel, works great!
Me too! My station only has 90 and I was cranky it was up to $5.99. Still cheaper by around 75% than the tin can stuff from Home Depot.
Anything that's 2 stroke don't bother with stabilizers, it's already mixed in with the 2 stroke oil because they assume anything 2 stroke is seasonal and will sit for months.
The oil in 2 cycle fuel acts as a deterrent to ethanol I would guess.But my 4 cycle with ethanol has had problems in the past from sitting over winter.I put a gallon of ethanol free in my 4 cycle in the fall .The price is a total rip off but I can't buy non ethanol easily in Massachusetts.
@@peterwill3699
Nope, the oil doesn't act as a deterrent, after they put ethanol in gas I couldn't let 2 stroke mix sit over the winter and it be any good the next spring, couldn't ever get anything to start, dump out the gas, mix up a fresh batch of 2 stroke mix and stuff would fire right up.
After a couple of years of dumping all my lawn and garden fuels out and draining all my fuel tanks every year at the beginning of winter I got sick of it so I decided to try putting ethanol neutralizer in a master can of fuel for all my lawn and garden equipment, I got a 5 gallon jug, put in the prescribed amount of ethanol neutralizer as per the manufacturer, fill the jug with pump gas and use it in all my equipment, whenever I need 2 stroke mix I just draw the gas from that jug.
All my ethanol problems went away, no more melted primer bulbs, fuel lines and diaphragms in carbs and I can leave the fuel I whatever piece of equipment and all my fuel cans over the winter and everything fires right up just like in the pre ethanol days.
Without re-tuning for the fuel change each time it's a moot point. These units were tuned for pump gas, different octane. Had they been tuned for Trufuel, then switched to pump gas you likely would get a similar result.
After going through my homelite blower I couldn’t seem to diagnose the problem. I tried and checked everything including putting new fuel in it (tru fuel) then I ran across your video! I put the thing back together and used vp 2 cycle oil and it started with 2 pulls. Thanks for the great info!
I have always used a high octane, low ethanol gas with a quality 50:1 oil for years. Now, I use Arctic Cat branded oil in my 2 cycle because I buy it by the 4 gallon case for my snowmobile. It’s a quality oil and just has to be measured. I work for a small engine shop and we support a lot of Stihl customers. My 2 cycle technician won’t use any pre bottled fuel in our serviced equipment. We mix our own.
all our stihl dealers only recommend the stihl or stihl certified pre mixed fuel, so much they offer to extend the warranty on new equipment if thats all you use.
@@thetazva No boss. We only double the factory warranty on new equipment sold with a six pack of Stihl premium oil mix.
You can tell when someone uses another cheaper brand. Now all that being said, I use Arctic Cat 50:1 because I buy it by the 4 gal case
@@dmwspoons60 Yup... that's what I was told when I purchased my new Kombi.. I use the stihl oil pretty much exclusively anyway, so it was a no brainer for me... Plus I was running low on oil! LOL!
@@dmwspoons60 Of course. I have several Stihl chainsaws and none ever needed any warranty work after 2 years. Doubling the warranty is of not much value if you have to buy a case of highly-marked-up-in-price oil. Any high quality synthetic 2-stroke oil would be more than good. Marine grade probably better and Amsoil if it was not so expensive.
@@RSole9999 Doubles to 4 not 2. And a six pack of 1oz bottles, not a case
I was told by someone that works on small 2 stroke engines that the carb should be tuned to what fuels your useing different fuels run different
I myself do not know the problem and am leery to adjust any carburetor differently from factory specs. Where is the literature on this? I would like to know.
This is true. If I tune it with pump fuel it won’t run right on tru fuel, if I tune with Tru fuel, it doesn’t like pump gas. In general tru fuel is better. I buy the 4 cycle one and mix it myself with better oil and I use it in my 4cycle engines at the end of the season or exclusively in low use items.
If you have to re-tune for TruFuel, the fuel is no good.
@@campbellpaul Look it up on the internet. You may need a small adjusting tool, but using different fuels will necessitate a carb adjustment. My brand new string trimmer would not run well until I adjusted to run on my fuel mix.
You're a life saver. I can never get my weed eater fueling right. Dumped that crap out, mixed up some oil, runs better than it ever has. Thank you!
I have used the red can (50) for nearly 5 years in both my chainsaw and blower and have not had a single issue. Both still start within 5 pulls max even after sitting all winter.
I use Echo RedArmor pre-mix in the last tank of the season, since pre-mix fuel does not have the level of varnish and deposit causing volatiles that gasoline has it works great as an end-of-season flush and whatever is left behind won't cause issues. Pre-mix fuels do cause a bit of power loss, they aren't quite as power dense but a carb adjustment mostly fixes that. Also, TruFuel makes the fuel for Stihl and other brands so blaming it on TruFuel is a bit shortsighted.
I have had problems with mud dobber wasps for years and finally found a solution. This works well in my enclosed shop but I don't know if it will work outside or in a carport environment. Hang a Corathon medicated Cattle ear tag (available at Tractor supply or most feed stores) on any piece of equipment. Mud dobbers will stay away. In my workshop I have 4 tags zip tied to various pieces of equipment. Mud dobber free for over a year.
At work the lazy guys' mufflers are always jammed full of mud dobber nests lol
I love your videos. I have used SEF brand with some success over the years with s randomly. my preference is ethanol free gas with Red Armor oil. Easy to see the difference instantly. this proves the absolute truth in especially quality of performance.
just found this video, and it explains alot ,I get theses issues from many clients, thanks for the insight and keep it up
Hi Bre, how about a basic video showing the way that you mix your reg fuel with the additive for newbies to 2 stroke equipment so that it's mixed properly. Thanks and love your videos.
Yeah bre, show us what you do!
Often wondered about that stuff. I've used Optimax oil mix in my two cycle engines for years with great results. Just mix it with regular gas.
My grandfather gave me a stihl 311 that just wouldn't run and he using the canned fuel. So after your advice I drained out all the gas and put fresh in and it runs like a top now. Thanks for the information.
Wow that's all I can say. Thanks for the info on this. Looking at buying a new saw and I have mixed my own fuel. This has been a very educational video. Sure like your channel came across it by accident but you sure have given me a lot of good information. Thanks for your time
I’ve been using Tru fuel for at least 5 or 6 years now and haven’t had to change a fuel line since I started using it where before I was changing them out almost every year due to leaks. 2 pull cranks on everything I use it in. Works for me
I had to replace the fuel lines in every 2 stroke powered garden tool I have because the fuel lines rotted out. It’s a good thing Amazon sells cheap kits and carbs too. Since I switched to TruFuel I haven’t had to replace anything.
I been using this Sef and it’s half the price and runs like a bat out of hell in my red max 3060ts
The ethanol in pump gas does not work well in small engines.
Well now this was a interesting video and very informative about canned fuel. I have never used canned fuel, but I always thought if I needed to there would be no differences in brand name, now I know that is not necessarily the way it is. I have always used ethanol-free 91 octane gas for my small gas engines and that combination has always served me well.
Ditto!
I use TrueFuel for all my lawn care equipment that requires it. It is a great product and is truly consistent. My bass boat has a 70 h.p. two stroke outboard motor. I mix my own with that , using only Quicksilver oil. Staying consistent with quality is your best option.
I have several two stroke vintage Mx bikes and I run them on a 50/50 blend of ethanol free 92 and VP110 at 40:1 with Klotz R50 Super ( synthetic with 20% castor ) and we’ve done pretty good
I have been using both Trufuel 40:1 and Truffuel 50:1 for at least 10 years now with no issues. I will continue to use them. My weedwacker and redmax blower have survived for many years because of TruFuel.
I have been using it NO problems.
I never had a problem with these premix until I did. Stihl BR600 would stall under full throttle, I took your advice, dumped the gas that was in it and put in stihl Motomix and it runs fine again. I will probably try regular ethanol gas and stihl brand oil when I run out of the motomix.
I mixed my own fuel for years, and every spring I had to fiddle with and clean the carburetors on all my two stroke engines. I used ethanol free fuel for mixing. About five years ago I switched to canned fuel and now I rarely have any problems. Both my string trimmer and chainsaw started in two pulls this year with canned fuel I put in them last fall.
Thank you for posting this! I thought there was something wrong with my Craftsman Leaf blower. I've been buying Tru Fuel thinking I was doing something good/better. Had idle problems and flooding. I mixed my own Shell premium fuel up with 2 stroke oil and the blower runs and idles much better! Thanks again. Now I'll save my $7.
I use the true fuel in the can because it is just handier and easier to pour. Have a John's red CS45 in the same to run. Good with it. Also craftsman weed eater and leaf blower and I need to get me one of those little tachometer things. Good video. Enjoyed it
Been running trufuel in my equipment for four years now. Lawnmower sat for a year as a service did my lawn while I was traveling for work.
Following season… started on the first pull and never sputtered once. Can’t do that with gas/ethanol. I have tried it much to my dismay.
Best stuff I’ve used.
I’ve had issues with try fuel for five years. There are a lot of times I have to replace the fuel filter. We sell Sunoco ethanol free at 94 octane and VP fuels. No problems with either of these. In the shop we mix orange bottle STIHL with 92 octane pump gas.
Of all the canned fuels out there, somehow, I would trust VP the most. I think I remember seeing it at Home Depot. However, as I noted above, I mix my own. Gas station within 2 miles sells Ethanol free mid-grade, and the little bottles Echo and others sell make it stupid easy to mix your own, as long as you refill the gas can with even gallons of fuel (1 gal. vs. 1.3, that is). The Echo and Stihl 2-stroke oils also include fuel stabilizer. Really makes it simple, as you only have one thing to add.
Good point, many don’t realize regular old Stihl HP 2-cycle has fuel stabilizer in it.
I’ve learned so much from you! Thank you for all your knowledge.
I only run non ethanol fuel and always mix my oil myself, We use chainsaws the most, my oldest saw is from 1974 (homelite) at 48 years old it still runs great. I did replace the fuel lines about 20 years ago. Our 1952 MG-TD and our 1982 Jeep CJ5 also gets non ethanol fuel. I have 4 gas generators that also get non ethanol fuel. If it has a carb it gets non ethanol fuel. Thanks for you video
I started using a lawn service about 6 years ago and had problems starting up my Stihl lawn equipment/chainsaw/polesaw after about a year of sitting. Starting using Trufuel and equipment started fine when I cranked them every 6-8 months. Now mowing my own yard again due to poor lawn service and everything starts with first 3-5 pulls except the Honda engine on my mower that starts with the first pull. Maybe I'll go back to mixing my own fuel again and use the true fuel cans to mix one gallon vs buying 1-2 gallon plastic gas cans with those crappy fill valves. Thanks for the video. Wish you'd use hearing protection. You'll appreciate good hearing decades from now.
Ethanol Destroys parts. She runs a repair shop. Using true fuel is much better than trying to source nonethanol gas then mix it. most people don't even use a gallon a year. I just think she has another motivation for this video lol
@@smit7120 I don't think that's the motivation here. I use 100 percent gas have for years. I go thur about 25 gallons of gas a season between my mower and edger ,trimmers and blower cant afford using can fuel. The can fuel people are the ones scamming people.
@@jamesburnette4120 then that wasn't for you the can fuel is much more expensive and really should only be used by people using less than a gallon a year. I was just saying the repair side WILL show up because most don't run the gas out at the end of the season and she didn't really drive home the evils of ethanol or touch on it at all. For me that's a much bigger problem
I know this is an old video but wanted to make an observation based on my 2 cycle experience and the EPA adjustment limiters. I had a similar problem with the 50:1 TruFuel but not the 40:1. The difference is the oil percentage and the limited tuning window with the EPA limiters on the carb. I tested the theory on my Stihl BG55. TruFuel 40:1 👍 TruFuel 50:1 👎. Not enough tuning range. I've also had the same problem with high ethanol fuel pump gas. You can't lean the mixture enough for the engine to run properly. Bottom line, the TruFuel isn't the issue. The EPA limiters are the problem. If you really want to test the theory buy the 4Cycle TruFuel and mix 3 batches, 32:1, 40:1, 50:1 and see how all 3 run without changing needle settings. Don't use any more than 32:1 oil ratio. You will be causing a lean condition.
The problem you are having with the EPA limiters is actually the tool you are using to adjust them.
Try an angle grinder.
A 50:1 mix gives more gas than a 40:1 mix. so no need to richen the mixture. Also why would 50:1 car gas and 50:1 snake oil fuel need a carb adjustment? Oh cause its snake oil at $36 a gallon.
@@Mr4827k you are correct. Meant to say you can lean the mixture enough. My point is that the EPA limiter garbage on these pieces of small equipment is the problem. Remove the limiter and you'll have the tuning range needed for the fuel. I don't think it's snake oil but they are bending people over at $26 a gal. You can make it yourself much cheaper. Anything with no ethanol is a must for these. I use race gas. $10 a gallon but I use it in other stuff as well.
My first year strictly running 4 cycle truefuel on my Craftsmen 1450 snowblower...so far so good. I dis notice rpm glitches every now and then. Its alot more expensive than gas per gallon and you get less mpg for each tank. I also noticed its alot harder to pull start.
It's cool how good you are at telling the difference by the sound. You have "perfect pitch" for small engine RPMs.
Heck of a test comparison. Suspected as much and enjoyed the demonstration. Will be saving a lot of money on regular gas now!!
As "I" know (many years 2 cycle tech at small engine shops) you gotta KNOW how to make a different fuel (a better fuel) perform satisfactorily. MANY MANY units are in the shop for carb. related problems, but the adjustment to make canned fuel run is not a problem for me-- IF the carb is adjusted to meter correctly. When the fuel pump diaphragm is stiff, the RANGE you can get away with in adjustments is more critical, as the flow volume is impeded by a stiff pump, and/or crud in the carb. An 'iffy' plug condition may also be troublesome, and make any transition between fuels used suspect. If you're not a carb whiz, then let a whiz show ya how.
Thats good you'll be saving your gas lines to by using 87 and whatever you may want to add into that
@@Laser3303 would have been interesting to see her adjust the carbs on those blowers and see how they run because they both sounded like they were running rich to me without even seeing the tachometer reading ,, i know when i switched to canned fuel 3 years ago I had to re tune all of my chainsaws and trimmers
because the fuel ran different ,,wanna really see one run different try running a high performance chainsaw on 100 octane racing fuel or AVGAS
@@Laser3303 I had to adjust the 2 carb settings on my string trimmer because I use 90 octane non ethanol fuel, and I think it may have been set up for 87 octane pump gas. It is very sensitive to small adjustments.
My 40-year Stihl chainsaw had an oil pump replaced about 5 years ago. I have used it a few times since, and it was hard to start, but it worked fine. I went to do some tree-cutting yesterday and added TruFuel (92 octane), and it would not start. I wanted to get this work done, was frustrated, and brought it to the shop. They could diagnose it for $65; the repair would be more money. Something felt off, and I was so confident it would run. I even brought it out in the lot and gave it one more try as it had a chance to warm up. I had them hold it while I shopped around, thought about it, and did some research. I went home and saw your video also about a 40-year-old saw. I can’t seem to find it now. You changed the fuel and presto. I returned to the shop with a new saw in mind, but I picked up the old saw and a can of Stihl premixed fuel (93 octane). I went home, emptied the old fuel, and put a capful of Sea Foam and the new fuel. Five to 10 pulls got a burp. I removed the choke and 10-15 pulls, and it ran strong! You are spot on! Chickanic, you ROCK!
Thank you for putting this out. Going to check out the one you did as a follow up too. We’ve been using this in our equipment and it sounds and operates EXACTLY like that. We’re changing it as of today!
Exactly my experience with these canned "fuels" so I just use the quart can to mix non-ethanol gas and 20 cc of Red Armor. Runs perfectly and easy to start.
That's a great idea!
@@UpnorthHere - If reusing a can is "great", as far as ideas go.....😐
I have always had great luck using high octane fuel, Stihl 2-cycle oil and Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer.
That's what I use in my cheap old chainsaw; E5 Premium fuel, Sta-Bil fuel stabiliser and synthetic 2-stroke oil.
Yes, same here for all my Stihl stuff. One batch is good for an entire season. No issues. Any leftover gets used up in an old Toro 2 stroke snowblower.
I made the mistake of using 87 octane fuel. Never again. Machines start but run rough till fully warmed up and I can tell the RPMs are down too.
FYI Stihl 2-cycle already has fuel stabilizer in it.
@@shannonwhitaker9630 correct, and that’s what I said when the service guy told me to add fuel stabilizer and he suggested I still add it, so I do and I’ve never had fuel issues with any of my Stihl tools. I consider it cheap insurance.
I've been using canned fuel for awhile.... but now I'm going to go back to mixing my own again.... THANKS FOR THIS POST!!
I have two echos a trimmer and a blower. I would have to say both are 25 years old at minimum. I must admit they have a mind of there own at times starting but the always start. I have used regular 89 oct and stabil all those years and quality two cycle oil never had anything done to them. Good fuel is everything. Nice job
I use VP Small Engine Fuel and seem to have improved performance, better idle and smooth high RPM running. Also the shelf life of the VP product is up to 2 years in the tank. Also, most gas purchased from your local gas station will have between 10 to 15% ethanol content. This means the gas has 3 to 4% less energy content than 100% gas. So engines running canned fuel will run richer than those running fuel with ethanol unless the carburetor is readjusted. I am not a fan of ethanol based gas for small engines, but your comment regarding Red Armor may be a good solution.
Her hand gestures on the True fuel in the 380 would indicate less high end but the tach actually indicated 200rpm increase, 40:1 vs 50:1 would also change gas percentage requiring a retune. ethanol is also known to harden diaphragm which she indicated was a potential problem with the 380 after sitting for a year. The one thing this video taught me is one is better off learning and doing your own tuning.
No 20-30% less energy
@@beekeeper8474 Pure Ethanol has about 33% less energy than pure gasoline. If the fuel you buy at the pump is 90% gasoline and 10% ethanol this fuel has about 97% the energy of pure gasoline or a 3% loss of energy. With the new rules in place now you could get fuel with up to 15% ethanol which would provide only about 95% of the energy of pure gasoline or nearly a 5% loss. When vehicle manufacturers build their engine tune software for cars and light trucks (other than E85 capable vehicles) they assume 10% ethanol and a stoichiometric air fuel ratio of 14.1084 (vs 14.7 for 100% gasoline) to account for the energy difference. So vehicle manufacturers are good. Less good are small engines, older models were designed and tuned for pure gasoline and the newer stuff for currently available pump gas. Some equipment will run well on either pure gasoline (including canned fuels) or pump gasoline but some is more finicky and needs to be tuned for the fuel being run. We see that in Bre's testing, in some cases there was significant change in performance in others little or no change. My suggestion is find a fuel you like, tune your engines to that fuel if possible and then stick with that product.
Sef is good stuff and half the price
I've used Red Armor since my first Echo saw, (CS400) 7 years ago. The dealer advised me to use it and I have never wanted to change. It's not unusual for the fuel to set 8 months up to a year and will fire on the first or second pull and start on the next. Burns clean too. For gas I use 89 Shell. Their website claims that their 89 is alcohol free but it does not say so at the pump. I always thought that paying $32 a gallon for fuel was insane. Love your channel, You are so helpful and kind. God Bless
Red armor is great stuff
I use red armor also but use 93 or higher grade gas
@@shangrilaladeda (1 is the best we have around here. I used to use that because there was 1 place that had 91 no ethanol but they closed. I couldn't find anyone else that had ethanol free Premium. I did find that Shell 'Claims', (I haven't tested it), that their 89 has no alcohol and I can get that so I've been running that an it seems to be fine. I should have edited my comment. I did use 89 E10 until I switched to the Shell though and it did do ok.
@@johnme7049 the red armor I believe is suppose to help with ethanol I’m not sure but echo knows that people use regular gas so I’m assuming red armor helps a lot it’s also a red color which is cool 😎
I've always used the 50/1 ratio mix and always had good results.
Thanks for sharing I been using this for years. I definitely changing the fuel.
Very interesting. We're using the cans at the fire department because it's still better than having to fix the saw that got a bad mix from Doofus McGee that thought 70:1 would be fine, but I'll look into some other options. Great vid and hope your hand heals soon.
We were using true fuel for a while, but ended up going to rec fuel for both our 2 and 4 cycle equipment. We had to do something, because while we fire the equipment up regularly, that fuel still just sits there fir so long, and goes bad.
It’s easy to spend other peoples money when it’s not yours. If you had to be responsible with buying gas out of your paycheck I can be sure you’d rather mix a gallon jug yourself for 3 bucks than spend 30bucks on a gallon premix. My fire department does the same thing and it drives me nuts. Treat tax payers money as if it’s your own.
They make 2 cycle oil in packs that are designed to add to a gallon of fuel. Just open and its already per-measured.Then you just have to make sure they always use 1 gallon of fuel or close to it.
I was a trucker for a good part of my life & also was a small engine mechanic for a longer part. Years ago I started using AV gas in my saws with no problems at all. 100 octane will really make a saw stand up! I always mixed it at 40:1. It depends on your sense of humor of pricing.
AV gas or great to put in any gas engine, if you can find it! Maybe have a pilot friend? Affording it, well if you have to ask......
AV gas was easy to find here but one of my mowers started popping and blew the head gasket. I figure it may be the really high lead content.
I mix AV100 with non ethanol gas 50:50 for all my small engines now. They start up easy and run strong even after setting up all winter. I add stabilizer and oil where used.
So, with my Stihl 026 I can expect better response with AV100 amount added to same amount of non ethanol gas? (and I am adding my oil to this mix as well,correct?
@powerthoughtsontools4831 AV gas requires no additives. Don't mix it too lean tho, mix the leanest at 40:1. Just use a good brand of oil. I no longer cut these days & anything here is to be taken with a shovelful of salt but it worked for me.
when i bought my Stihl chain saw the dealer talked me into using true
fuel something i have never used . maybe because there new units they run great but
after watching you im going to mix my own gas again I never had a problem with it
I have the same Frankenstein, and that is exactly how mine runs with trufuel. I will be dumping it and going back to my stihl fuel. Thanks for posting
I’ve used Stabil Storage stabilizer in non-ethanol gas year round for about 30 years in my2 cycle engines as well as mowers, and they almost always start on the first or second pull after a long period of non use ( anywhere from 30-90 days). I’ve never had to take one to the shop because of bad fuel or the carb varnishing up. It’s great stuff and never let me down.
I have used stabil in 87%pump gas with out any problems !
I run sta bil marine 360 in all of my outdoor equipment with 89 Octane or higher and never have problems. ..even after not being used for over 5 months.
That's my method also, non oxy fuel and Stabil during off season.
Just curious if any of you guys who commented on this post have used the Stabil-2 stroke oil that has fuel stabilizers in it. It is a JASO-FD oil. Just wondering if you've used it and if it runs good. Thanks.
@@mikefisc9989 no, I didn’t realize they had 2 stroke oil with Stabil in it. I’ve always used the red color Stabil that you add to the gas can, and have never had any varnished up fuel lines etc.
16:49 octane rating basically is there to tell you how resistant a fuel is to causing knocking or pre ignition. The higher the number the more resilient it is.
Not how it works.
@@marvincombsiii6685 if you don’t mind, could you explain where I was wrong? I would be happy to learn where I made a mistake. :D
@@JeeTinator
In a nutshell.........gasoline as produced at the distillery is too volatile. This volatility is what creates pre-ignition. ie, knock.
Additives to reduce volatility enter gasoline at blending stations. (These are at the distillery usually).
Higher octane numbers are indicative of reduced volatility. Essentially slowing the burn rate. By reducing volatility the point of burn can be controlled for best performance.
Sounds ass backwards but it is the way it is.
@@JeeTinator
So your thoughts were kinda correct but the process is far more complex than can be described here. There is a lot of pertinent information online with properties of gasoline and the additives introduced at the blending stations.
My personal preference is MMT. In non ethanated fuel.
@@marvincombsiii6685You're correct in pointing out that gasoline's octane rating is related to its resistance to knocking or pre-ignition. However, it's worth clarifying that the octane rating doesn't necessarily indicate "reduced volatility" in the way that term is commonly understood. Volatility refers to how easily a liquid turns into vapor, and in that sense, gasoline must be sufficiently volatile to vaporize and mix with air for efficient combustion.
The octane rating is more about the fuel's resistance to auto-ignition under compression, allowing for better control over the timing of combustion. High-octane fuels are more stable and less likely to ignite prematurely, which makes them suitable for high-performance engines that operate at higher compression ratios.
So, in essence, the octane rating helps control the burn to optimize performance, but it isn't about reducing the volatility of the gasoline in the sense of its ability to evaporate.
I have been using Trufuel in my Stihl chainsaw, a TroyBilt trimmer and Stihl leaf blower for years and have never had a problem. When I stopped using regular gasoline my problems with starting and running stopped also. Just my experience.
I agree. I use mostly my home brew Stihl Ultra 50:1 pond water. I occasionally put my of saws in storage with Stihl MotoMix but a $40+ a gallon, I do not use much of it.
You should try with Aspen 2-stroke alkylate fuel. I use the 4 stroke version for my mower, and it is the stuff. No need of ajustment, no water in the tank, membrane and fuel line friendly. Sparkplug and oil doesnt take colour.
Aspen is indeed the best of them by a large margin, the stihl so far i would rate second.
@@andreawhalen4142 Yes it is great. In my nearest store they offen sell it for 20 dollars for a 5L can (Denmark). I spend around 3 cans a year on my Honda mower and brush cutter. Sparkplug and oil looks as new after a season.
I've never used any canned fuel and don't intend to. Clearly the units ran worse with Trufuel, but it probably has more alkanes, less aromatics, higher octane and no ethanol, so the tuning would be different from 87 octane pump fuel with ethanol. A better test would be to tune them optimally for each fuel, then test. I use Red Armor 2-cycle oil on multiple recommendations and didn't realize it helped keep ethanol from attracting water. For all my small engines, my gasoline is 91 octane non-ethanol (would use lower octane but can only get non-ethanol premium).
@Being There I did a google search on who offered Non Ethanol gas and Shell says that their 89 octane is ethanol free. That is the minimum recommended octane Echo recommends so I have been using it for a while since I lost my access to 91 alcohol free. (They Closed) Shell oddly does not state on the pump that it is ethanol free but when I asked inside they checked online and confirmed it. Hope this helps.
I've never seen adjustable timing on small engines
It ran worse because alkylated fuel has less oxygen in its molecular structures compared to e10, e5, or even non-ethanol benzene pump gas. This means the engines ran very rich, all they need is to lean out the carb mixture a bit and they run just as good as any other pump gas, minus the rubber problems.
@@janeblogs324 Adjustable timing went out with points and condensers. Tuning 2-cyle engines like those in the video generally consists of adjustment of 3 screws - low speed, high speed, and idle adjust. Many saws restrict tuning with limiter caps and fixed settings.
@@johnme7049 Thanks, I'll check into it.
I started using aviation fuel 6 years ago. I have worked on small equipment for 35 years. I will never go bad to pump gas!
I use VP premixed fuel on occasion. I think the trick is you need to tune it for the fuel. I normally use it in things that I don’t use all the time. I find it doesn’t require me to rip the carburetters apart and clean them every year if I use it. Too busy cleaning everybody else is carburetters to do my own lol
Things like my lawn mower which I use all the time I will use it first thing in the spring and then again in the fall when I put it away. As I say I don’t have to clean carburetters at all or as often if I use it.
I guess it’s easier to drain your tank and put fresh stuff in then it is to clean a carburetter LOL
I sell a ton of caned gas in my shop, mostly to home owners who don't use there equipment that often. It's more convenient and getting the proper mix is not easy for them. We are seeing more landscaping people using it because they are tired of the employees using straight gas or improper mixing and destroying equipment!!
It's easy to mix the 2-cycle oil & gas. I make 1 tank load at a time for my chainsaw (1.5 cups gasoline (
It doesn't take a genius to mix gasoline and 2 cycle oil. I've been using ethanol free gasoline and synthetic 2 cycle oil mixed at 100 to 1 for many decades. I've never had an engine failure or had to change a spark plug.
I use the SEF fuel in a brush cutter and a blower due to limited use. I mix the knock off oil from Lowes and pour it in a metal can and it works great for me in a SRM-225, Its way better than the Stihl oil leaking from the muffler.
Yeah, I bought a couple of cans of Trufuel. Ran like crap with my saw, so I ended up running the gas through my 4 stroke lawn mower. I refilled the trufuel cans with my own 50:1 gas mix. They are handy cans to reuse as they don’t leak or spill fuel from them when you fill up equipment.
I use Aspen 2 and it keeps my carb and engine clean. No problems with sitting over the winter.
I had a model older than this one that I love. My sister has difficulty with tools that are too heavy and she actually loved mine and found it easy to use ruclips.net/user/postUgkx_rBCFuDW1zD6blTGhLkvAkxU657uR_lG . This is a newer model but was even lighter which she really appreciates. She enjoys it and I no longer have to go to her house to trim as she can handle it fine. Haven't used it enough to comment on the battery life but lithium batteries last longer than the old style. Being cordless makes it easy to trim the far edges of the property. The entire yard can be trimmed with one charged battery.
TruFuel is great for storing engines over the winter, or longer. My equipment starts every time. But, I run high test gas once the engines are starting. A repair facility suggested using this combo to keep my equipment out of the shop. This is the way to go...works well! I'm also using Stihl 2-cycle oil as it has a stabilizer for seasonal use. Again, for storage, drain out the gas/oil mixture, then run awhile and store. A sure start next season. BTW the 40:1 mixtures were used in the Weed-Eaters of yesteryear. Most engines today use 50:1.
I had the same problem with Stihl can gas. My Echo blower just didn't have any power. Switched to 93 octane E10 and it runs like a screaming demon. I have no issues with 10% ethanol in any of my engines, two cycle or four cycle, but I do keep all equipment and gas cans in a heated and air conditioned shop. I also use Schaeffer Nutra fuel treatment every time I fill up my 5 gallon cans. I've had equipment set nearly a year, and fire up no problem.
I've wondered about the SEF canned fuel, but I've never used it. Good to know!
EVERY machine I've EVER switched over to TruFuel needed the carb leaned out to make it run properly. More power-dense fuel. Also, choke is more likely to flood if applied too long. This fuel lasts much longer when stored, and NO ethanol formulation lets it use less of it to make the engine put out full power. You must NOT think the fuel is the SAME as pump gas in how it runs--it ISN'T! Higher power formulation, requiring a leaner mixture at the carb. Usually the customers that have a problem with it do not know these things, and all I need to do is lean it out (top and bottom). Even old fuel needs to be adjusted to run; the carb can't do it by itself, YOU have to adjust to make it run right. (See R. Geigler's post below).
Exactly.
Yep, H needs to be leaned out. Same with Aspen or any other branded alkylated fuel. Lack of ethanol and benzene makes it more energy dense, as there's less oxygen already in the molecular structures of the fuel, so the engines will run very rich with the mixture setting of regular gas.
Would have never guessed that some caned fuels actually reduce power! I've always used 91 octane (min) and full synthetic 2 stroke motorcycle oil. I mix at 40:1
since the late 80s in my weedeater, chainsaw and leaf blowers. So far have never had any fuel problem nor fouled a plug. I do not run any ethanol fuel ever.
Difference is if live in Australia good fuel but expensive, if live in America shit fuel but cheaper
@@empiresrikesfat really?..