It's recommended that the sump plug washer and sump filter washer are changed. These are a one time use and ensure the best seal. I agree with other comments about priming the filter with oil, this means that when you start the bike after the service it has oil immediately and doesn't run dry initially. Don't over tighten the oil filter, and make sure (as stated in the video) you smear oil over the rubber gasket - this is a must. If not the rubber seal will stick to the crank case and you will not get it off any time this decade. For this model (748 SPS if not mistaken) sump plug washer: 220.3.208.3A and sump filter washer: 220.3.205.5A. Torque setting I believe is 42nm for a standard Ducati filter.
Great vid Rubber Duc. Thanks for posting. I hate to bust your chops, but it's always a good idea, especially with a Ducati, to prime/fill the oil filter before installation. Desmodromic valve trains tend to not do too well with oil starvation, even if it's during that brief time before the filter fills with oil and sends sends it to the top end.
The K&N filters are already lubed and you should fill the oil filter with oil before putting it on. The K&N filter also has a hole in the nut so if you want you can wire lock it 👏🏻👏🏻 💪🏻💪🏻 😎
Good video but why not include the spec's for torque and oil quantity? It hadn't occurred to me that I don't need motorcycle specific oil for this one, I'll consider it for my next change.
When I change oil filters , I usually fill nor the top if it's in a vertical position,,then it primes quicker when restarting the engine cheers shane uk
Common mistake (lazy in my opinion) is made @7:32. With any oil filter that attaches upside down, fill the filter with fresh oil first, allowing a few minutes for it to soak into the media in the filter. You will be amazed how much it takes and it also allows an accurate reading when filling to the correct level. The problem with not doing this is that the oil will take longer to lubricate the motor when started and that ladies & gentlemen is where most damage is done, just like any cold start. Happy riding & stay upright.
I know this comment is 3 years old but I wanted to comment for people that read this. The common mistake actually is what you are saying. When you fill a housing straight from the bottle that oil is unfiltered (unless you filter it prior to doing this) and that means if there is any debris from the manufacturing process in the oil or you contaminate it in some way (like dropping a piece of the foil that most oil companies seal their bottles with, etc.) then it will go straight into the moving engine parts and that is a bad thing. I know many people get away with it but it is not worth the risk IMO. Besides unless the oil change takes a week to do then the engine already has a coating of oil on it anyway, thanks for the comment though.
@@RubberDuc That is not at all what this comment was about. It is a good practice to fill the oil filter first to reduce the amount of time it takes the motor to make oil pressure when first starting it after replacing the filter. Most engine wear occurs at cold starts and if the oil pump has to fill the filter before lubricating the cams and rockers then it means a second of running without that lubrication. There is no need to filter new oil first.
Is it normal for the Ducati to not turn on if it wasn't full? Because my Ducati doesn't turn, the starter seems to work and all, new battery, the oil light indicator was on and I checked to see, and apparently, the oil is at almost none at all, and the bike doesn't turn on, the oil light just flickers when I turn the key and the bike just doesn't budge, tomorrow I will change the oil but I'm just asking if it's normal for the bike to not start with oil at the minimalist. I'm just worried because I bought the bike last friday.
+Hector Munoz Hi Hector, I'm not totally sure but I don't think so. I guess it is possible I know there are oil kill switches like that on other things (generators come to mind), but not sure if the Ducati has one on it or not, I've never read anything about them , etc.. I would just change the oil and get it filled to spec and see where you are at. Good luck with it and let me know how it goes.
+Hector Munoz It actually sounds more like a kill switch gone bad now that I think about it, here is a similar situation on a forum you can read about: www.ducati.ms/forums/57-supersport/50659-flickering-oil-light.html
Rubber Duc Thanks allot for the reply. But I think I may have found the problem, so I filled her up with Mobile 1 oil and it still didn't turn on. Then we looked at the battery, we plugged it in with my brothers Corvette and boom it turns on easy, tried many times. We tried turning it on again without it being plugged, but it didn't budge like before. I took the battery to our closest motorsports dealer, turns out, even though it was new the battery that came with it was shot, yea it's just a bad battery, low charge, messed up internals. So I bought a new one and it'll be shipped in a few days, hope it'll work. I'm guessing I'll have to store the Duc well over the winter or the battery can need up messing up again idk, I'm new to riding. Anyway thanks!
Never do this without using the maintenance stand, and a warm engine. All oil is drained and filling is more accurate. Motul oil is the only decent oil for these very sensitive engines. Torque settings are also important, steel plugs into an alloy moulding can be a recipe for disaster.
Motul is not the only decent oil, four 20 year old Ducatis each with over 50,000 miles and 2 150,000+ BMW's in my stable using Rotella T6 begs to disagree with you. Motul is fine and I would never suggest you not use it if you are happy. I do agree however that a maintenance stand should have been used, he also didn't start the motor and check the level with the bike standing upright.
It's recommended that the sump plug washer and sump filter washer are changed. These are a one time use and ensure the best seal. I agree with other comments about priming the filter with oil, this means that when you start the bike after the service it has oil immediately and doesn't run dry initially. Don't over tighten the oil filter, and make sure (as stated in the video) you smear oil over the rubber gasket - this is a must. If not the rubber seal will stick to the crank case and you will not get it off any time this decade.
For this model (748 SPS if not mistaken) sump plug washer: 220.3.208.3A and sump filter washer: 220.3.205.5A. Torque setting I believe is 42nm for a standard Ducati filter.
Great vid Rubber Duc. Thanks for posting. I hate to bust your chops, but it's always a good idea, especially with a Ducati, to prime/fill the oil filter before installation. Desmodromic valve trains tend to not do too well with oil starvation, even if it's during that brief time before the filter fills with oil and sends sends it to the top end.
DAMN! And I was just quoted $130.00 to have this done! I do believe that I'll be getting my OWN hands dirty! Thanks for the great Vid!
Jack Durden if you wear gloves you won’t even get your hands dirty.
Talk about maintenance on these bikes? I have to check vale clearances every 15 hours on a crf 450x
What is the torque stetting for the drain plug and the oil filters?
The K&N filters are already lubed and you should fill the oil filter with oil before putting it on. The K&N filter also has a hole in the nut so if you want you can wire lock it 👏🏻👏🏻 💪🏻💪🏻 😎
Good video but why not include the spec's for torque and oil quantity? It hadn't occurred to me that I don't need motorcycle specific oil for this one, I'll consider it for my next change.
Good one Jason- too the point and detailed.Thanks for the info.
When I change oil filters , I usually fill nor the top if it's in a vertical position,,then it primes quicker when restarting the engine cheers shane uk
Are you using 15w40 I would like to know what weight. Thank you
What size was the Allen wrench for the drain bolt?
10mm allen.
What size hex socket for the filter screen?
14mm for 998s (people still search)
why do almost i meet say that the 748 are not a good bike, does it have issues ?
How many miles a year do you think you put on that 748 and is it your first ??
I clean filter screw ever second oil change does it have to be clean every oil change
where did you got the rimes¨from
Hey Rubber Duc hows everything going for you in terms of the move?
+Rusty bolts Just got home this weekend, all moved in! Will be starting production on the series this week!
Common mistake (lazy in my opinion) is made @7:32. With any oil filter that attaches upside down, fill the filter with fresh oil first, allowing a few minutes for it to soak into the media in the filter. You will be amazed how much it takes and it also allows an accurate reading when filling to the correct level. The problem with not doing this is that the oil will take longer to lubricate the motor when started and that ladies & gentlemen is where most damage is done, just like any cold start. Happy riding & stay upright.
I know this comment is 3 years old but I wanted to comment for people that read this. The common mistake actually is what you are saying. When you fill a housing straight from the bottle that oil is unfiltered (unless you filter it prior to doing this) and that means if there is any debris from the manufacturing process in the oil or you contaminate it in some way (like dropping a piece of the foil that most oil companies seal their bottles with, etc.) then it will go straight into the moving engine parts and that is a bad thing. I know many people get away with it but it is not worth the risk IMO. Besides unless the oil change takes a week to do then the engine already has a coating of oil on it anyway, thanks for the comment though.
@@RubberDuc That is not at all what this comment was about. It is a good practice to fill the oil filter first to reduce the amount of time it takes the motor to make oil pressure when first starting it after replacing the filter. Most engine wear occurs at cold starts and if the oil pump has to fill the filter before lubricating the cams and rockers then it means a second of running without that lubrication. There is no need to filter new oil first.
Is it normal for the Ducati to not turn on if it wasn't full? Because my Ducati doesn't turn, the starter seems to work and all, new battery, the oil light indicator was on and I checked to see, and apparently, the oil is at almost none at all, and the bike doesn't turn on, the oil light just flickers when I turn the key and the bike just doesn't budge, tomorrow I will change the oil but I'm just asking if it's normal for the bike to not start with oil at the minimalist. I'm just worried because I bought the bike last friday.
+Hector Munoz Hi Hector, I'm not totally sure but I don't think so. I guess it is possible I know there are oil kill switches like that on other things (generators come to mind), but not sure if the Ducati has one on it or not, I've never read anything about them , etc.. I would just change the oil and get it filled to spec and see where you are at. Good luck with it and let me know how it goes.
+Hector Munoz It actually sounds more like a kill switch gone bad now that I think about it, here is a similar situation on a forum you can read about: www.ducati.ms/forums/57-supersport/50659-flickering-oil-light.html
Rubber Duc Thanks allot for the reply. But I think I may have found the problem, so I filled her up with Mobile 1 oil and it still didn't turn on. Then we looked at the battery, we plugged it in with my brothers Corvette and boom it turns on easy, tried many times. We tried turning it on again without it being plugged, but it didn't budge like before. I took the battery to our closest motorsports dealer, turns out, even though it was new the battery that came with it was shot, yea it's just a bad battery, low charge, messed up internals. So I bought a new one and it'll be shipped in a few days, hope it'll work. I'm guessing I'll have to store the Duc well over the winter or the battery can need up messing up again idk, I'm new to riding. Anyway thanks!
+Hector Munoz Yep that is what happened in the link I sent you above, glad you got it fixed.
Thanks 🙏
Why do they say don’t break the seal?
This guy should know to put oil in the filter BEFORE puting in on
yellow...They are so beautifull!
@6:06... hahaha
Never do this without using the maintenance stand, and a warm engine. All oil is drained and filling is more accurate. Motul oil is the only decent oil for these very sensitive engines. Torque settings are also important, steel plugs into an alloy moulding can be a recipe for disaster.
Motul is not the only decent oil, four 20 year old Ducatis each with over 50,000 miles and 2 150,000+ BMW's in my stable using Rotella T6 begs to disagree with you. Motul is fine and I would never suggest you not use it if you are happy. I do agree however that a maintenance stand should have been used, he also didn't start the motor and check the level with the bike standing upright.