Thank you for this video! I'm changing rockers, lifters, and springs in my lt1 and I was told I was gonna have a problem picking the proper pushrod length and you just made me more confident. I'll be ordering both the tool and the adjustable rod soon. Thanks again!
I have binged probably 100 of your videos over the last month since I discovered your channel and didn't realize you were an instructor until now. Thought you were just randomly gifted with an amazing ability to explain things. Your students are lucky.
dude dont give those basher any attention as far as im concern you are one of the most imformative tech video ive seen keep doing what ur doing and thnx a lot
You can also use lash caps to correct geometry as well, and lash caps also come in different thicknesses to help some situations. It usually will be one or the other, either the push-rod or lengthening the valve stem. Keep in mind that the lash cap will add weight to the entire valve spring assembly which might not be desirable on a high RPM high performance engine. As a builder one has to consider ALL of the cause and effects of an approach to issues with proper assembly. Some 'builders' make gravitas assumptions that 'parts is parts' and never bother to check EVERY interaction on how to fit the pieces of the puzzle to add up to the sum. A reliable and powerful well running engine. Excellent video and sound advice. Thanks once again.
No mas kitty scratches ok....... thanks bro..lol. Very very informative. I have a 79 corvette... motor is from 79 but don't know if it's original to the body of the car. 350 nat. Asper. Mech fuel pump. Blew out #2 LIFTER THREE TIMES... so now I brought a comp cam thumper cam and I'm a fast learner and this is my first restoration job so I got my guts crossed and doing a lot of research so hats off to you and thanks for the lesson teacher. Until next time.
Dude this help me out so much i did what you said and thanks for telling me about the Push Rod Length Checker because turns out my push rods were a little to short so i got new ones and my SBC is running better then ever. Thank you so much
@@brucebell7623 @myvintageiron7512 can this tool be used on ford 302 engines? I see they have 2 versions, for 3/8 and 7/16 studs.. but they both say Chevy. I would imagine it would be able to be used on ford’s unless there is a small detail I dont know about?
The only other consideration is that rocker fulcrum to both-each tip angle varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. Some with 1.6 ratio actually measure 1.8 coming off the seat. That means that the first ,200 of lifter lift the valve is open several thousandths MORE. Open sooner means more area under the curve, more power. Dyno tests have shown 12-20 hp more by changing from one brand 1.6 to another brand 1.6 in back to back tests. Dont forget this tool is set for MOST rockers, not all. David Vizard explains this.
The adjustable push rod with the jam nut is the length checker, the plastic rocker arm is for checking the geometry, with just the geometry tool you can verify you have the right or wrong pushrods, but you will need the length checker to verify the pushrod length needed
I have a question... So this is verifing the length, however this is w/o any lift or mid-lift... Shouldn't the push rod be verified at mid-lift? just a question.. thanks~! RW
So if I changed cams, springs and rockers on a hydrolic vortec 350, I'm finding this tool doesnt work when testing my engine at 1/2 lift with 90 degree method. Also noticed it changes my lift in a negative way although my sweep pattern is on the exhaust side. To get correct lift and 90 deg I had to increase rod length by 200 thousand. That us accounting for preload factored in. Products changed: Compcams Xm270hr marine cam Compcams behive springs Comp 7 degree retainers and keepers Assault racing 1.5 full roller rockers. I'm going to test out a different set of 1.5's, I'm a little freaked out by the big change and exhaust sweep. Thoughts?
I am reading Summit reviews and about 20% of the reviews state that this is not the way to go. I am more comfortable with the 90 degree method. I love saving time but shortcuts do not make any sense to me especially given the reviews on Summit.
Is there a way to tell what kind of rocker arm i need? I just bought an lt1 engine that has been cammed and seems to have aftermarket valves but they installed the incorrect rocker arms.
I have recently built a SBC with Edelbrock heads with roller rockers , I don't have this tool yet . Can I pull the valve cover , pull the rocker and look at the impact spot is on the valve ?
aircooled VW's checked with the rocker arm installed with the adjustable pushrod and the arrm on the valve side flat like in the video. I wonder if they make one of thoes tools for Vw's.
Does it matter if you use a solid or hydraulic lifter when using this tool? I have a solid lifter, but the seat height is way different than the hydraulic lifters that are being used in the engine. Using the solid lifter, the stock length pushrod is perfect. Using the completely dry hydraulic lifter, the pushrod is .100 too long. That makes more sense to me since the block and heads were surfaced.
Would this tool work on a small block mopar, Magnum 360 that I'm using Comp stud mounted 1.6 stainless roller rockers? I have already used the comp adjustable pushrod part number 7702-1 set at 6.8" with .050" preload on the hydraulic lifter as per Comp's tech page, and have a very centered sweep on the tappet end of the valve stem. Does that mean my geometry is correct?
I appreciate the answer. Although if I get the Vortec heads I will have to get a intake for a Vortec set of heads, right? Im not looking to go the Vortec route, I wanted to get a set I could bolt on and go, and dont mind spending $1200 on the heads, so the price isnt a big deal. I have also checked the Edelbrock E street with the 180-185 runners. Im just wanting a reliable brand and would appreciate if you had any you could recommend?
The RHS Vortec's have duel blot patterns on the intake flange you can use your intake, trust me you will love those heads they will kick the snot out of 200+ cc runners on a 350 the bigger runners don't have enough air velocity below 5000 rpm's on a 350 they are more for 383's and 400's I've already been through all of this I tested all these heads on the dyno give em a shot you won't be disappointed
You will need a tool that looks like an actual push rod but it has adjustment to make it long or shorter. So in actuality you would need this proform tool and a push rod lenght checker. The way you would buy one is to find out how long your stock push rod is the go to Summit Racing or Jegs and search for a push rod lenght checker that will be adjustable to the longer side of the stock push rod. When you get it you will put the proform tool the way he did in the video then grab your pushrod lenght checker and adjusted to where it touches the proform tool. Then you will take that push rod checker and measure the length with a caliper or even a measuring tape. Now you got the correct push rod lenght and you can order it, good luck.
@@MrElPoderozo1 ok great Ty very much I have a 88 roller block 350 I have new alum heads with double valve springs And my 3 year old 1.6 roller rockers hit the inside of the rocker and shattered wearing out the retainer on top after 1500 km break in Now I just put my factory gm ones back in But I fed have stock pushrods I actually just broke one in half I replaced it with a new stock one for now When do you need hardened pushrods Spring pressure or rpm At what point dog they break
@@benkalinowski5834 Is very hard for me to give you accurate information without knowing everything I need to know but sense you put new aluminum heads I am going to assume that it also has a new camshaft. The lift on the cam has to match the springs etc... if you broke a push rod in half it could be that is too long or you might have adjusted too much. Like I said is very hard for me to tell without being involved in it. Good luck tho sorry.
@@MrElPoderozo1 I have a Chevy performance lt1 hot cam It's not crazy It's for my fuel injected 88 GTA trans am I thought if it breaks another pushrod then I'm gonna do what you said
What set of aftermarket heads do you recommend I use on my 72 Chevelle with a 350, already has a dual plane Summit Intake and other goodies..488 lift cam, Edelbrock 600, will be using Harland Roller Rockers already ordered 1.6 size. IM in a standstill with AFR 195cc SBC Eliminators 1040.. will these work ok? Quote:These cylinder heads are a L98 based geometry. Not compatible with self-aligning rocker arms. Exhaust port is raised 0.100 in. over stock. :;;Do I need anything special for these to work?? Thanks! Don Don if you know Id appreciate it too!
195cc runners are to big for a 350 with that cam buy some RHS vortec's with 180 to 185 cc runners and a 64 cc chamber it will run much better also your carb is too small you need 800 to 850 cfm carb
So I recently had to get my cylinder heads milled to true them up after a head gasket blow out. I just got this tool and measured out my new pushrod length. I noticed you did not measure out preload. I’m dealing with a 95 ford 302 and the rockers call for zero lash and then a half turn while on the base circle of the cam. Using this tool, should you add those preload measurement of the 1/2 turn or no? I’m just assuming that half turn really doesn’t matter with that small of an increment measurement unless you are going absolute dead on balls precision cut pushrods.
95 have NON adjustable rockers. This does not apply to those. You need to adjust your stands for .030" preload... Unless it's just a daily driver then nobody cares really.
Thanks for your info sir. Do we have to check each and every push rod? Is is best practice to buy the cam, lifters and rockers as a compete set? Thank you!! I see from comments below you don't answer questions. So can anyone please weigh in on this?
Great vids man. I'm building a 350 2 bolt main, cast crank, and factory style flattop pistons.This is going in a 72 Monte Carlo with th350 factory stall and 273 gears. I'm looking for 330-350hp and lots of low end torque to launch that 4200 lb car. I had the block zero decked and intended on installing vortec heads but I'm worried about my compression being too high (10.41:1) for a daily driver (pump gas) with the 64cc heads. I have a set of 882's that came with the car. They are 76cc and that puts me in the 9.15:1 compression range. I know I could cam up the vortec 350 to scrub off some compression but that will kill my low end performance (I think). Question: Do you think it would be better in my application to port the 883's and go with the lower compression? In one of your vids I think you said the 441's were pretty good but I doubt I will find any. The camel humps are out for me since I need the accessory holes. I even looked at some of the cheap ebay aluminum heads but they are a gamble. Any recommendations are appreciated.
Don't buy inexpensive chinesium rockers Most won't last 2,000 miles with a medium cam. The biggest problems are that the center fulcrum bearing allows wobbles side to side at the tip, AND/OR the tip roller goes to hell really quickly. It's money down the toilet if you do.
I like this video and have done this with my GEN I 355 SBC with Edelbrock cam & flat tappets, their E-Street Aluminium 64 CC heads with guideplates, and Scorpion 1.5 full roller rockers. I got the pushrod length to 7.750 Comp Cams hardened pushrods (0.050 shorter than stock, but compression chamber is smaller too, etc...). I have had others tell me to toss this "pushrod length checker tool" and go other routes. "Why not use what is simplest and works?" I say.
On my 350 with that tool, a stock 7.800 pushrod, lifter on base circle I have almost .150 gap between the bottom of tool and top of valve top, could it be that far off or is something wrong? Pushrods way to long.
Thanks a lot, good stuff, good teaching ! Now, couple questions: trying to find stage 2 camshaft into my 2004 Mustang/ 3.8 litre V 6. Comp Cam does not even make it??, where can I find one, even used one?? Also, can I change 1.6 rocker arms, stock I believe in my Mustang into 1.7 ratio?? Is there enough "play" in pistons to do that? Thanks again, youtheman =)
DONT EVEN BOTHER WITH THAT 3.8 INSTALL A V8.FOR ANOTHER DONT EVER INSTALL A USED CAM.YOU DONT KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT IT AND FOR ANOTHER,WEAR PATTERNS ON THE CAM ITSELF!
I have searched for this same type of rocker arm geometry checker for a SBF with 3/8 studs and can only find them for Chevy. Do you know of that same tool for Ford or does the same tool work for Ford?
question: How does a Technician check for proper length when the cam lobe for each cylinder is at "0" degree bottom dead center? or Do i check this distance with the valve fully closed and the cam lobe at BDC for each cylinder? please respond
Yes, the pushrods end is at an angle, so the shorter actual tip radius is compensated for. Don't forget to sweep the valve tip with an adjustable length pushrod. See my other post. Please.
Not a fan of this tool. It doesn't account for valve lift. There is a big difference between a .550 flat tappet and a .750 solid rolller cam. The only way to do it right is the use the rocker your going to run, set it at 90* to the valve stem to establish the proer geometry, then take out 1/2 the total valve lift to determine pushrod length. This tool doesn't know what your valve lift is so should only be used on hydraulic cams.
I agree that above .550 lift this does not work but up to that lift it works like magic I was skeptical at first a so I checked the Geometry with the 90 degree method and this tool gets it perfect, I tried it with a .620 lift solid cam and it DOES NOT !! work you are right about that good call
How accurate is this? I have a dart pro 200 with 1.55 valve retainers, added comp cam magnum moly rocker, clears ,so they say 1.55 spring... I stared with 7.2 pushrod,, too short, so I went 7.4.. swiped is good across the valve.. tried this tool. It shows me I need 7.6 rods!!! Is this accurate?
Nice tool . Is that right that you can use this tool to find your correct push rod lenght . Instand of useing your rocker arm and turning the motor over with the calk on the valve stem to check to see if it line up in the middle of the valve stem..
I found a better easy way to check push rod legnth. Put your pushrod in, tighten rocker to zero lash. Count the turns on the nut from being off to zero lash, mine was 5. Take your pushrod out, put your rocker back on, count your turns to your zero lash. Now count the turns to get your rocker where it runs centered on the valve. 3/8 studs are .042 per turn of the nut, 7/16 studs are .050 per turn. I needed .250 shorter. Worked out perfect. No need for an adjustable pushrod, just eyes and math. The .021 of half turn past zero lash on a hydraulic cam wont make a difference on your measurement. My sharpie mark on the valve stem is dead center. Heads milled .015, block decked .010, felpro gasket, .580 lift cam, hydraulic lifters. 12.5 to 1 comp. You can also mark a business card at zero lash with the wrong pushrod, measure on the pushrod end of the rocker, take it out, run the rocker where it while ride the valve centered, mark the business card again. Subtract. Convert to hundreths of an inch.
Myvintageiron7512 if you could help me find a part number for the heads( Ive been looking on JEGS) I would fully appreciate it. I looked at the heads and there are about 7 different kinds and none say Vortec style.
Hey vintage im having a prob on my 385, far as maintaining a 1k idle, it is a 515 or 525 lift but 1 machine shop screwed me around with press in studs and didnt cut bosses, later took to my original place and he helped a little by putting some honeycomb springs and she ran better, i feel i need to go aluminum heads, especially for a better flow than the stock heads
I never rebuilt and engine before so I'm in uncharted territory. I'm working on my 97 3500 7.4 Vortec. I'm pretty sure you all know that it cant be adjusted like regular rockers. Will this tool work with the Vortec?
He is probably asking about engines that the rockers run on a shaft. Its not a vague question when you are a mechanic. Non mechanics come up with basic terms describing what they have seen. So us mechanics have to read further into what they are trying to describe sometimes.
I don't trust this tool. it said I need pushrods 7.0. with adjustable push rod it was 7.1 and some change. stock block , stock 041 heads with Howards retro roller hydraulic cam/lifters. Howards said 7.144 is what they recommend as a starting point for my setup and 7.0 was out of the question! I think this tool is for measuring at 50% lift ... maybe.
I said it before and I'll say it again, that tool is worthless. If you change valve lift on any engine the rocker hight must change accordingly. I'm going to have to make a video explaining this. There is so much confusion about this.
HMMM that is an interesting viewpoint can you please explain the following company's and tell me what they build? Ford Motor Company General Motors BMW AKA as Bavarian Motor Works Motor's magazine Chrysler Motor Corp Mitsubishi Motor's I could keep going but you get the point. If you look up the term motor in the dictionary it lists the definition as an internal Combustion Engine, I'm not sure where this nonsense about a Motor only being electric came from but it's just not true
yes that's true this tool is only useful with mild cams with bigger cams you need to do it the harder way go to half lift and make sure the center line of the rocker is 90 degrees to the valve tip one of these days I'll do a video on that
Even after your explanation of it's use and function, "push rod length checker" sounds like a very good name.
Thank you for this video! I'm changing rockers, lifters, and springs in my lt1 and I was told I was gonna have a problem picking the proper pushrod length and you just made me more confident. I'll be ordering both the tool and the adjustable rod soon. Thanks again!
I have binged probably 100 of your videos over the last month since I discovered your channel and didn't realize you were an instructor until now. Thought you were just randomly gifted with an amazing ability to explain things. Your students are lucky.
dude dont give those basher any attention as far as im concern you are one of the most imformative tech video ive seen keep doing what ur doing and thnx a lot
You can also use lash caps to correct geometry as well, and lash caps also come in different thicknesses to help some situations. It usually will be one or the other, either the push-rod or lengthening the valve stem. Keep in mind that the lash cap will add weight to the entire valve spring assembly which might not be desirable on a high RPM high performance engine. As a builder one has to consider ALL of the cause and effects of an approach to issues with proper assembly. Some 'builders' make gravitas assumptions that 'parts is parts' and never bother to check EVERY interaction on how to fit the pieces of the puzzle to add up to the sum. A reliable and powerful well running engine. Excellent video and sound advice. Thanks once again.
awesome tool suggestion! just bought one and we'll see how it works...seems much easier thanks!
So much information on this channel I almost want to buy your course
Excellent tutorial. THANK YOU FOR SHARING YOUR KNOWLEDGE.
I agree they should've called it a rocker/push rod length gauge.
No mas kitty scratches ok....... thanks bro..lol.
Very very informative.
I have a 79 corvette... motor is from 79 but don't know if it's original to the body of the car. 350 nat. Asper. Mech fuel pump.
Blew out #2 LIFTER THREE TIMES... so now I brought a comp cam thumper cam and I'm a fast learner and this is my first restoration job so I got my guts crossed and doing a lot of research so hats off to you and thanks for the lesson teacher. Until next time.
Dude this help me out so much i did what you said and thanks for telling me about the Push Rod Length Checker because turns out my push rods were a little to short so i got new ones and my SBC is running better then ever. Thank you so much
Your welcome
@@Myvintageiron7512 Sir, can this be used on a Ford engine, 302 heads?
@@brucebell7623 @myvintageiron7512 can this tool be used on ford 302 engines? I see they have 2 versions, for 3/8 and 7/16 studs.. but they both say Chevy. I would imagine it would be able to be used on ford’s unless there is a small detail I dont know about?
@@Myvintageiron7512 can this be used ford 302 engines?
Thanks for doing the basics...very informative..
The only other consideration is that rocker fulcrum to both-each tip angle varies from manufacturer to manufacturer.
Some with 1.6 ratio actually measure 1.8 coming off the seat. That means that the first ,200 of lifter lift the valve is open several thousandths MORE.
Open sooner means more area under the curve, more power.
Dyno tests have shown 12-20 hp more by changing from one brand 1.6 to another brand 1.6 in back to back tests.
Dont forget this tool is set for MOST rockers, not all.
David Vizard explains this.
The adjustable push rod with the jam nut is the length checker, the plastic rocker arm is for checking the geometry, with just the geometry tool you can verify you have the right or wrong pushrods, but you will need the length checker to verify the pushrod length needed
yep your right I use both
is there a plus and minus tolerance on the push rod length as to being perfect. ?
@@dextermccoy1016 +/- .050? correct me on that
Rocker Arm Geometry should be set to center of valve stem / lash cap @ 50% of the total lift.
This for people who won't buy an adjustable length pushrod and do it correctly.
This is a "good enough ?" situation... for backyard doers.
Check at mid lift, max lift or at zero lift? I think that would be critical when using that tool . Don't you think?
I have a question... So this is verifing the length, however this is w/o any lift or mid-lift... Shouldn't the push rod be verified at mid-lift? just a question.. thanks~! RW
@Brandon Dennis so the engine needs too be hand turned until the push rod drops to it lowest point before using the push rod checker tool?
So if I changed cams, springs and rockers on a hydrolic vortec 350, I'm finding this tool doesnt work when testing my engine at 1/2 lift with 90 degree method. Also noticed it changes my lift in a negative way although my sweep pattern is on the exhaust side. To get correct lift and 90 deg I had to increase rod length by 200 thousand. That us accounting for preload factored in. Products changed:
Compcams Xm270hr marine cam
Compcams behive springs
Comp 7 degree retainers and keepers
Assault racing 1.5 full roller rockers.
I'm going to test out a different set of 1.5's, I'm a little freaked out by the big change and exhaust sweep. Thoughts?
I am reading Summit reviews and about 20% of the reviews state that this is not the way to go. I am more comfortable with the 90 degree method. I love saving time but shortcuts do not make any sense to me especially given the reviews on Summit.
Does it matter where the piston is within it's travel range? What I mean is will the geometry be the same at TDC and BDC and anywhere in-between?
You’ll want to make sure the cam is in on the base circle. (Off the lifting lobe completely)
Wouldnt preload on hydraulic lifters change the final geometry? This checks with no preload so ~.060 taller than with preload right?
nykuryu, yes. with the lifter full of oil and zero lash,
add .020 to the overall pushrod length.
You'd think the tool would have a seat for the pushrod
Doesn’t compensate for different cam lifts! May get in the ballpark, but not spot on!
can you do a video on breakin procedure.
If the pushrod is too short or too long...how do you measure the distance between the pushrod and the rocker arm checker tool thingy?
Where should the position of the cam lobe be when setting up the checker
Good question
Is there a way to tell what kind of rocker arm i need? I just bought an lt1 engine that has been cammed and seems to have aftermarket valves but they installed the incorrect rocker arms.
Is it checked with the lifter on the base of the cam lobe?
Does that plastic pushrod measuring tool work on small ford blocks?
I have the same question
I have recently built a SBC with Edelbrock heads with roller rockers , I don't have this tool yet . Can I pull the valve cover , pull the rocker and look at the impact spot is on the valve ?
hmmm....question: Wouldn't you want to check the valve stem length first for proper roller rocker position then check the pushrod length ?
The valve stem heights are all the same the push rod length is what determines proper rocker position
you can get either one
aircooled VW's checked with the rocker arm installed with the adjustable pushrod and the arrm on the valve side flat like in the video. I wonder if they make one of thoes tools for Vw's.
Wouldn't blue dye on the stems be an easier way 2 check the length?
Yes, but do you have 6 different length push rods to try??
Buy an adjustable pushrod and just do the job right the first time.
Does it matter if you use a solid or hydraulic lifter when using this tool? I have a solid lifter, but the seat height is way different than the hydraulic lifters that are being used in the engine. Using the solid lifter, the stock length pushrod is perfect. Using the completely dry hydraulic lifter, the pushrod is .100 too long. That makes more sense to me since the block and heads were surfaced.
WITH HYD LIFTERE THE PLUNGER WILL BE ABOUT THE MIDDEL OF THE TRAVEL WHEN PUMPED UP STOCK LENGTH IS FINE
Myvintageiron7512 That was my assessment as well. Ordered a set last night, thanks.
Would this tool work on a small block mopar, Magnum 360 that I'm using Comp stud mounted 1.6 stainless roller rockers? I have already used the comp adjustable pushrod part number 7702-1 set at 6.8" with .050" preload on the hydraulic lifter as per Comp's tech page, and have a very centered sweep on the tappet end of the valve stem. Does that mean my geometry is correct?
This tool will give a ball park setting for most engines keep in mind to get exact rocker geometry
there is a much longer process
YOU KNOW.... MOST OF YOU GUYS CAN ANSWER YOUR OWN QUESTIONS IF YOU JUST READ THE OTHER GUYS COMMENTS
I appreciate the answer. Although if I get the Vortec heads I will have to get a intake for a Vortec set of heads, right? Im not looking to go the Vortec route, I wanted to get a set I could bolt on and go, and dont mind spending $1200 on the heads, so the price isnt a big deal. I have also checked the Edelbrock E street with the 180-185 runners. Im just wanting a reliable brand and would appreciate if you had any you could recommend?
The RHS Vortec's have duel blot patterns on the intake flange you can use your intake, trust me you will love those heads they will kick the snot out of 200+ cc runners on a 350 the bigger runners don't have enough air velocity below 5000 rpm's on a 350 they are more for 383's and 400's I've already been through all of this I tested all these heads on the dyno give em a shot you won't be disappointed
I have the same tool
And I need it to find my pushrod length
Do you just use fealer gauges under it to measure how much off it is ?
You will need a tool that looks like an actual push rod but it has adjustment to make it long or shorter. So in actuality you would need this proform tool and a push rod lenght checker.
The way you would buy one is to find out how long your stock push rod is the go to Summit Racing or Jegs and search for a push rod lenght checker that will be adjustable to the longer side of the stock push rod.
When you get it you will put the proform tool the way he did in the video then grab your pushrod lenght checker and adjusted to where it touches the proform tool. Then you will take that push rod checker and measure the length with a caliper or even a measuring tape. Now you got the correct push rod lenght and you can order it, good luck.
@@MrElPoderozo1 ok great
Ty very much
I have a 88 roller block 350
I have new alum heads with double valve springs
And my 3 year old 1.6 roller rockers hit the inside of the rocker and shattered wearing out the retainer on top after 1500 km break in
Now I just put my factory gm ones back in
But I fed have stock pushrods
I actually just broke one in half
I replaced it with a new stock one for now
When do you need hardened pushrods
Spring pressure or rpm
At what point dog they break
@@benkalinowski5834 Is very hard for me to give you accurate information without knowing everything I need to know but sense you put new aluminum heads I am going to assume that it also has a new camshaft. The lift on the cam has to match the springs etc... if you broke a push rod in half it could be that is too long or you might have adjusted too much. Like I said is very hard for me to tell without being involved in it. Good luck tho sorry.
@@MrElPoderozo1 I have a Chevy performance lt1 hot cam
It's not crazy
It's for my fuel injected 88 GTA trans am
I thought if it breaks another pushrod then I'm gonna do what you said
What set of aftermarket heads do you recommend I use on my 72 Chevelle with a 350, already has a dual plane Summit Intake and other goodies..488 lift cam, Edelbrock 600, will be using Harland Roller Rockers already ordered 1.6 size. IM in a standstill with AFR 195cc SBC Eliminators 1040.. will these work ok? Quote:These cylinder heads are a L98 based geometry. Not compatible with self-aligning rocker arms. Exhaust port is raised 0.100 in. over stock. :;;Do I need anything special for these to work?? Thanks! Don Don if you know Id appreciate it too!
195cc runners are to big for a 350 with that cam buy some RHS vortec's with 180 to 185 cc runners and a 64 cc chamber it will run much better also your carb is too small you need 800 to 850 cfm carb
Is it fair to say that when deciding on the parts needed to build a performance engine, you should start with the heads and work back to the block?
is there a different tool for different rocker ratios? or does the geometry stay the same for all ratios?
It can change
So I recently had to get my cylinder heads milled to true them up after a head gasket blow out. I just got this tool and measured out my new pushrod length. I noticed you did not measure out preload. I’m dealing with a 95 ford 302 and the rockers call for zero lash and then a half turn while on the base circle of the cam. Using this tool, should you add those preload measurement of the 1/2 turn or no? I’m just assuming that half turn really doesn’t matter with that small of an increment measurement unless you are going absolute dead on balls precision cut pushrods.
95 have NON adjustable rockers.
This does not apply to those.
You need to adjust your stands for .030" preload... Unless it's just a daily driver then nobody cares really.
Yep thats exaxtly what the tool does
Myvintageiron7512
Thanks for your info sir. Do we have to check each and every push rod? Is is best practice to buy the cam, lifters and rockers as a compete set? Thank you!! I see from comments below you don't answer questions. So can anyone please weigh in on this?
Are you doing this on cyl 1 at TDC ?
Great vids man. I'm building a 350 2 bolt main, cast crank, and factory style flattop pistons.This is going in a 72 Monte Carlo with th350 factory stall and 273
gears. I'm looking for 330-350hp and lots of low end torque to launch that 4200 lb car. I had the block zero decked and intended on installing vortec heads but I'm worried about my compression being too high (10.41:1) for a daily driver (pump gas) with the 64cc heads. I have a set of 882's that came with the car. They are 76cc and that puts me in the 9.15:1 compression range. I know I could cam up the vortec 350 to scrub off some compression but that will kill my low end performance (I think). Question: Do you think it would be better in my application to port the 883's and go with the lower compression? In one of your vids I think you said the 441's were pretty good but I doubt I will find any. The camel humps are out for me since I need the accessory holes. I even looked at some of the cheap ebay aluminum heads but they are a gamble. Any recommendations are appreciated.
4200 lbs lead sled
Needs a big block
Very cool I was thinking of roller rockers cuzz I have vortec heads on a 010 block and .500 lift.
Don't buy inexpensive chinesium rockers
Most won't last 2,000 miles with a medium cam.
The biggest problems are that the center fulcrum bearing allows wobbles side to side at the tip, AND/OR the tip roller goes to hell really quickly.
It's money down the toilet if you do.
So im getting my cam swaped out would i need the new cam in before i can measure
THINK ABOUT WHAT YOU JUST ASKED??
sleathers1551 yeah diddnt think wen i posted
I like this video and have done this with my GEN I 355 SBC with Edelbrock cam & flat tappets, their E-Street Aluminium 64 CC heads with guideplates, and Scorpion 1.5 full roller rockers. I got the pushrod length to 7.750 Comp Cams hardened pushrods (0.050 shorter than stock, but compression chamber is smaller too, etc...). I have had others tell me to toss this "pushrod length checker tool" and go other routes. "Why not use what is simplest and works?" I say.
i may be a roller but i'll always be a rocker...
I have a 351w with trick flow twisted wedge heads with roller rockers and the pushrod keeps rubbing on the pushrod guides. Any advice? Thanks
On my 350 with that tool, a stock 7.800 pushrod, lifter on base circle I have almost .150 gap between the bottom of tool and top of valve top, could it be that far off or is something wrong? Pushrods way to long.
Thanks a lot, good stuff, good teaching ! Now, couple questions: trying to find stage 2 camshaft into my 2004 Mustang/ 3.8 litre V 6. Comp Cam does not even make it??, where can I find one, even used one?? Also, can I change 1.6 rocker arms, stock I believe in my Mustang into 1.7 ratio?? Is there enough "play" in pistons to do that? Thanks again, youtheman =)
DONT EVEN BOTHER WITH THAT 3.8 INSTALL A V8.FOR ANOTHER DONT EVER INSTALL A USED CAM.YOU DONT KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT IT AND FOR ANOTHER,WEAR PATTERNS ON THE CAM ITSELF!
Do they make this tool for fords? Looked high and low with no luck...
As a Mopar guy to a Ford guy. Keep in mind that the Chevy guys need all the help they can get.
I have searched for this same type of rocker arm geometry checker for a SBF with 3/8 studs and can only find them for Chevy. Do you know of that same tool for Ford or does the same tool work for Ford?
Douglas Knutsen See my post at the top, you dont need any tool, just a sharpie mark on your valve stem.
Understood. Just trying to cheat a little with the soft springs and an adjustable push rod
question: How does a Technician check for proper length when the cam lobe for each cylinder is at "0" degree bottom dead center? or Do i check this distance with the valve fully closed and the cam lobe at BDC for each cylinder? please respond
Can that tool be used on a Ford head, one with adjustable rocker arms?
flint lock no they are engine specific because of different valve angles, etc
thanks for the vid - is that checker used at zero lash/base circle (no lift)?
Do you check it the same way if the lifters are new thanks
Both intake and exhaust valves are closed when you check the length using this pushrod gauge?
Yes
Great info, nice vids you got there , one question, this this tool work with 1.5 and 1.6 ratio's ?
Cheers from Australia
Great information what your videos will the the push rod checker tool will it be ok to use on either 1.5 and 1.6 ratio rocker arms ?
Yes, the pushrods end is at an angle, so the shorter actual tip radius is compensated for.
Don't forget to sweep the valve tip with an adjustable length pushrod.
See my other post. Please.
@@hotrodray6802 thanks .
Not a fan of this tool. It doesn't account for valve lift. There is a big difference between a .550 flat tappet and a .750 solid rolller cam. The only way to do it right is the use the rocker your going to run, set it at 90* to the valve stem to establish the proer geometry, then take out 1/2 the total valve lift to determine pushrod length. This tool doesn't know what your valve lift is so should only be used on hydraulic cams.
I agree that above .550 lift this does not work but up to that lift it works like magic I was skeptical at first a so I checked the Geometry with the 90 degree method and this tool gets it perfect, I tried it with a .620 lift solid cam and it DOES NOT !! work you are right about that good call
blazeracer1 Not so, my rockers wont run at 90° mid lift. You have to get your wear mark centered on the valve, not 90 degrees.
you the to be on the base circle of the cam when you check this right?
Just like to add when checking length, is the lifter in the bore on base circle?
The tool states early sbc blocks, but will this also work on vortec heads?
How accurate is this? I have a dart pro 200 with 1.55 valve retainers, added comp cam magnum moly rocker, clears ,so they say 1.55 spring... I stared with 7.2 pushrod,, too short, so I went 7.4.. swiped is good across the valve.. tried this tool. It shows me I need 7.6 rods!!! Is this accurate?
Nice tool . Is that right that you can use this tool to find your correct push rod lenght . Instand of useing your rocker arm and turning the motor over with the calk on the valve stem to check to see if it line up in the middle of the valve stem..
No
I found a better easy way to check push rod legnth. Put your pushrod in, tighten rocker to zero lash. Count the turns on the nut from being off to zero lash, mine was 5. Take your pushrod out, put your rocker back on, count your turns to your zero lash. Now count the turns to get your rocker where it runs centered on the valve. 3/8 studs are .042 per turn of the nut, 7/16 studs are .050 per turn. I needed .250 shorter. Worked out perfect. No need for an adjustable pushrod, just eyes and math. The .021 of half turn past zero lash on a hydraulic cam wont make a difference on your measurement. My sharpie mark on the valve stem is dead center. Heads milled .015, block decked .010, felpro gasket, .580 lift cam, hydraulic lifters. 12.5 to 1 comp. You can also mark a business card at zero lash with the wrong pushrod, measure on the pushrod end of the rocker, take it out, run the rocker where it while ride the valve centered, mark the business card again. Subtract. Convert to hundreths of an inch.
Don Rutter lol ya that's a way easier way to do it. Lol
Myvintageiron7512 if you could help me find a part number for the heads( Ive been looking on JEGS) I would fully appreciate it. I looked at the heads and there are about 7 different kinds and none say Vortec style.
www.speedwaymotors.com/RHS-VORTEC-CYLINDER-HEADS,6613.html
My intake lift is .19 larger than the exhaust lift do i need two different push rod lengths. .584/.565
Hey vintage im having a prob on my 385, far as maintaining a 1k idle, it is a 515 or 525 lift but 1 machine shop screwed me around with press in studs and didnt cut bosses, later took to my original place and he helped a little by putting some honeycomb springs and she ran better, i feel i need to go aluminum heads, especially for a better flow than the stock heads
Ben Dover
I never rebuilt and engine before so I'm in uncharted territory. I'm working on my 97 3500 7.4 Vortec. I'm pretty sure you all know that it cant be adjusted like regular rockers. Will this tool work with the Vortec?
Thanks
what about lifter pre load did you add for that
.030 is preferred.
Be sure and center the valve tip sweep.
RHS 12052-02 - RHS Pro Action Aluminum SB-Chevy Cylinder Heads are these it?
?
is the engine on top dead center or where
Can I safely use standard rockers with 500 to 600 lift or do I need to get rollers
I wouls go roller with anything above .600
thanks mr.torres
Don't answer that one I figured it out,, I was thinking about it too much I guess.
How do you check a head that don't have studs
Vague question. What do you even mean?
He is probably asking about engines that the rockers run on a shaft. Its not a vague question when you are a mechanic. Non mechanics come up with basic terms describing what they have seen. So us mechanics have to read further into what they are trying to describe sometimes.
I WOULD SAY HE IS TALKING ABOUT THE BOLT DOWN ROCKERS LIKE A SBF HAVE
Will this Tool work on LS Engines too?!
no
What position does the cam have to be in to get the proper geometry off this tool
All positions👌
Will this tool work for a gen 3 viper
no
or is the valve closed
I don't trust this tool. it said I need pushrods 7.0. with adjustable push rod it was 7.1 and some change. stock block , stock 041 heads with Howards retro roller hydraulic cam/lifters. Howards said 7.144 is what they recommend as a starting point for my setup and 7.0 was out of the question! I think this tool is for measuring at 50% lift ... maybe.
this only works with a mild cam with a bigger cam I agree I would not use this tool
I said it before and I'll say it again, that tool is worthless. If you change valve lift on any engine the rocker hight must change accordingly. I'm going to have to make a video explaining this. There is so much confusion about this.
"Valve camber alignment check Tool"
Or call it a:Is it too dang sideways tool??😜
i have no compresion is thats why my push rod need to be check
Hey did you measure the piston to valve clearance after getting proper geometry?? I am almost done with my motor 408 Nitrous motor check my channel
Kinda like Sanitation Engineer verbage. 😆😆😆
Rocket arm and pushrod geometry tool...
Rocket arm😂
Motor is electric. Engine are fuel
HMMM that is an interesting viewpoint
can you please explain the following company's and tell me what they build?
Ford Motor Company
General Motors
BMW AKA as Bavarian Motor Works
Motor's magazine
Chrysler Motor Corp
Mitsubishi Motor's
I could keep going but you get the point.
If you look up the term motor in the dictionary it lists the definition as an internal Combustion Engine, I'm not sure where this nonsense about a Motor only being electric came from but it's just not true
We are working on motor vehicles after all.............
What a bad video. No information. No set up. I wouldnt let him touch my motor.
I'll:
Doesn’t compensate for different cam lifts! May get in the ballpark, but not spot on!
yes that's true this tool is only useful with mild cams with bigger cams you need to do it the harder way go to half lift and make sure the center line of the rocker is 90 degrees to the valve tip one of these days I'll do a video on that