This is the best video of what the difference is between the 260 vs 360. This answered alot of my questions about what is the difference between the two. This is just excellent info. I hope woodmizer has given you some rewards/compensation.
Thanks for watching! No I haven’t received anything from Woodmizer for this video, I just like their products and want to help out other people where I can.
Nice detailed description of the moulders. I've never seen such compact design. I work at Ethan Allen and operate a two much bigger 5 head molders and a 8 head cnc moulder that wouldn't fit in most home shops. Very interesting to see they make them soo small.
I think another major difference is the 360 only has a 3 phase option. I beleive the 260 you can choose between single and 3 phase. I ended up purchasing a 260 about 1.5 ago because I don’t have 3 phase power and that was going to add a bunch of money to the equation for me. Thanks for making the video. I look forward to seeing more videos of you using it!
Thanks for the comparison. Maybe it wouldn't be convenient, since you sometimes might do surface moulding, but having top and bottom spiral cutters would be nice. Didn't Logosol make a moulder at one time that had a tilting side head, or was that someone else?
Yes the spiral heads are nice if you are just surfacing and don’t plan on doing any moulding. Yes it was the ph365. It was a 360 with a bolt on 5th cutterhead. It was basically a tilting shaper head. It seemed to be a very niche machine.
Thank you so much.... I guess i have been doing 3/4 inch tongue and groove panelling 40 years the ~old fashion way~ Planer... Shaper-power feeder- change cutter-flip and cut again... slow process... I didnt even know these existed till someone said to me ~WHy dont you get a ...Moulder....? So now Im checking these all out...sure helps to get a real low down from someone who has the experience and use of them.... I can see the hassle of changing out those plate heights on the mp260.. Now If your only running 3/4 inch T & G for the most part...Its not a big deal. One question... I do matching butt ends on the T & G using a mitered coping sled on the shaper. Im guessing there's no way you can do butt ends with these moulders? How long have these been around?? I like that little tip you use to set that smack dab at 3/4 inch quick!
No you can’t do ends on a moulder, you’d need an endmatcher. They’re very $$$ and only do one job. I square cut ends with a radial arm saw I leave dead set at 90 degrees.
Hey man. Good video it explained some things for me for sure. Just got an MP 360 as a compliment to my sawmill operation. Haven’t set it up or used it yet. Just wondering why the top knives are bigger and require more chip extraction than the bottom knives. Is more material always removed from the top and if so why? Thanks
It depends on your setup, not always but a lot of the times yes the top head takes a heavier cut=more chips. Also if you think about how the bottom head works, the chips are trapped between the board/table/cutterhead and really can’t go anywhere but into the dust collection=more efficient. The top head is much more open requiring more airflow to try to catch the chips.
Bottom head-make sure the knives are set dead even with the outfeed side of the bed. First side head-outfeed side fence needs to be even with cutterhead(also watch the pressure roll after the moveable head isn’t pushing the workpiece. Second side head-never had much trouble with this one but also side fences should be aligned correctly. Top head-lift your outfeed table slightly past level to help support the work more. In general make sure you’re putting straight wood into the machine. Hope this helps!
Nice video! I would like to make rhomboidal larch 8cm x 2.8cm planks, do you think it is possible that I directly straighten 4m long 9cmx3.2cm planks? Will straighten long board (13 feet or 4m)? I'll use like cladding of a wooden facade.
I’d definitely recommend straightening it before running through the moulder. If you watch some of my other videos you’ll see I rip my blanks straight first. I believe the dimensions you gave would be a good blank size.
Im wondering what size is the spindle? Can the spindles be changed like a shaper AND can you use your own cutter heads Or does this MP260/360 use a exclusive cutter head only available from woodmizer? [My goal is to cut tongue and groove wall panelling. i have a incredible assortment of cutter heads ..would be nice if they could be used]
@@hillcustomlumber Can one use their own cutters... The bore of the cutters are 3/4 inch 1inch and 1.25 inch... Could you use any of these cutters with those bore on the MP360? I am wondering the thickness of the spindle on the MP360 and if you can use your own cutters or need a dedicated cutter from woodmizer?
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This is the best video of what the difference is between the 260 vs 360. This answered alot of my questions about what is the difference between the two. This is just excellent info. I hope woodmizer has given you some rewards/compensation.
Thanks for watching! No I haven’t received anything from Woodmizer for this video, I just like their products and want to help out other people where I can.
Nice detailed description of the moulders. I've never seen such compact design. I work at Ethan Allen and operate a two much bigger 5 head molders and a 8 head cnc moulder that wouldn't fit in most home shops. Very interesting to see they make them soo small.
Yes these are built to fit into smaller sawmill and millwork businesses.
I think another major difference is the 360 only has a 3 phase option. I beleive the 260 you can choose between single and 3 phase. I ended up purchasing a 260 about 1.5 ago because I don’t have 3 phase power and that was going to add a bunch of money to the equation for me. Thanks for making the video. I look forward to seeing more videos of you using it!
Yes good point that I overlooked, thanks!
Nice video! Never looked at these up close before, seem like a nicely setup rig. I use a 725 woodmaster to do all mine, i like the 4 head idea though
Like every machine, once you get past the learning curve and get comfortable with them they are very capable well built machines.
Good video
Thanks
Oh I see. Thanks so much. I may bother you again in the future when it is up and running. Totally new to planing/moulding
No worries! Biggest reason I started this channel is to help people. I’ve learned most of it the hard way!
The hinge ides is great super simple nice work
Sometimes simple is the best solution!
Thanks for the comparison. Maybe it wouldn't be convenient, since you sometimes might do surface moulding, but having top and bottom spiral cutters would be nice. Didn't Logosol make a moulder at one time that had a tilting side head, or was that someone else?
Yes the spiral heads are nice if you are just surfacing and don’t plan on doing any moulding. Yes it was the ph365. It was a 360 with a bolt on 5th cutterhead. It was basically a tilting shaper head. It seemed to be a very niche machine.
Thank you so much.... I guess i have been doing 3/4 inch tongue and groove panelling 40 years the ~old fashion way~ Planer... Shaper-power feeder- change cutter-flip and cut again... slow process... I didnt even know these existed till someone said to me ~WHy dont you get a ...Moulder....? So now Im checking these all out...sure helps to get a real low down from someone who has the experience and use of them.... I can see the hassle of changing out those plate heights on the mp260.. Now If your only running 3/4 inch T & G for the most part...Its not a big deal. One question... I do matching butt ends on the T & G using a mitered coping sled on the shaper. Im guessing there's no way you can do butt ends with these moulders? How long have these been around?? I like that little tip you use to set that smack dab at 3/4 inch quick!
No you can’t do ends on a moulder, you’d need an endmatcher. They’re very $$$ and only do one job. I square cut ends with a radial arm saw I leave dead set at 90 degrees.
Hey man. Good video it explained some things for me for sure. Just got an MP 360 as a compliment to my sawmill operation. Haven’t set it up or used it yet. Just wondering why the top knives are bigger and require more chip extraction than the bottom knives. Is more material always removed from the top and if so why? Thanks
It depends on your setup, not always but a lot of the times yes the top head takes a heavier cut=more chips. Also if you think about how the bottom head works, the chips are trapped between the board/table/cutterhead and really can’t go anywhere but into the dust collection=more efficient. The top head is much more open requiring more airflow to try to catch the chips.
I have the MP 260. This is a new machine for me. How do you minimize or eliminate snipe? I get it on the sides and planed surfaces.
Bottom head-make sure the knives are set dead even with the outfeed side of the bed.
First side head-outfeed side fence needs to be even with cutterhead(also watch the pressure roll after the moveable head isn’t pushing the workpiece.
Second side head-never had much trouble with this one but also side fences should be aligned correctly.
Top head-lift your outfeed table slightly past level to help support the work more.
In general make sure you’re putting straight wood into the machine. Hope this helps!
@@hillcustomlumber Thanks!
Nice video!
I would like to make rhomboidal larch 8cm x 2.8cm planks, do you think it is possible that I directly straighten 4m long 9cmx3.2cm planks? Will straighten long board (13 feet or 4m)? I'll use like cladding of a wooden facade.
I’d definitely recommend straightening it before running through the moulder. If you watch some of my other videos you’ll see I rip my blanks straight first. I believe the dimensions you gave would be a good blank size.
Have you sold the 260 yet? I might be interested..
Yes it was sold months ago.
Im wondering what size is the spindle? Can the spindles be changed like a shaper AND can you use your own cutter heads Or does this MP260/360 use a exclusive cutter head only available from woodmizer? [My goal is to cut tongue and groove wall panelling. i have a incredible assortment of cutter heads ..would be nice if they could be used]
They’re 30MM spindles off the top of my head.
@@hillcustomlumber Can one use their own cutters... The bore of the cutters are 3/4 inch 1inch and 1.25 inch... Could you use any of these cutters with those bore on the MP360? I am wondering the thickness of the spindle on the MP360 and if you can use your own cutters or need a dedicated cutter from woodmizer?