This is actually really cool. I never saw anyone remove a board in this manner. It’s almost always done with a steamer. I really like this idea. Old tools are truly incredibly useful and more durable - they don’t break after a year, lol. Slow and steady wins the race!
Direct heat on nitro cellulose inlays? I would not take the chance they are going to light on fire...Ive done hundreds of removals without destroying FBs . I leave the frets on and they transfer the heat from a small travel iron the the fretboard. 15 minutes tops and completely intact.
I built a crude but effective wooden box that I plug a heat gun into one end, foil and blanket the side the neck inserts into. Surprisingly, my inlays didn't suffer damage. On one neck I had some binding ooze that left tear drops going oddly but fortunately vertical in protrusion, but my heat gun and some pressing with a thin paint scraper easily reformed them. Next go about it, aluminum foil on the headstock and I marked the heat gun dial to reference and slowly increase heat below it while also using a thermometer gun and really long, metal, digital meat thermometer inside the box. I have seen the clothing iron used many times over many years, *but I still lack the skill to refret an entire board as well as you fellas, so it's acceptable for a novice on that particular process.* For future I have a "train track" tool partially built so the aluminum horizontal pieces under the "track" apply heat directly to the fingerboard. *I can refret well enough, but lack the experience and confidence to do an entire board on a guitar of true value.* I'll get there though!
I finally just built a box to bake necks with some treated fence planks, *but it was a trial and error process and I had a one neck's binding melt and this resulted in some tear dropped spots.* Fortunately, I tested my heat gun and just pressing on the deformations and it easily returned to shape. A little more heat and a paint scraper will get it >95%, and then some mild sanding and polishing will have it repaired. *I have a looooot of necks to repair but lower heat and aluminum foil around the headstock will produce what we're all looking for.* I have heard many luthiers oppose neck baking to straighten necks, but too many other guys that have done it for decades that swear by it. *Ultimately, the 2 necks I did came out perfectly level and I didn't have to pull the fingerboards.* I used zip ties and cuttings of dove tailed foam rubber floor matting on the underside of the neck so the glue would reseat, the steel bar would have significant pressure, and allow everything to harden up to a dream like result. One neck evacuated a little glue out the sides, not all, which was exactly what I expected since the factory worker in China slathered on way too much glue! I know you guys that are pros have much better tactics, however, I have about 40 guitars of my own and won't have my lab/workshop in order for at least another month until I can build a much better tool I designed. *Like a railroad track with aluminum bars directly on the fingerboard to get correct heat transfer. I don't want to refret unless I have no other options.* I think I can get away with putting it in the "hot box" that way so I don't have to build a tool with an electric heater built into it.
nice work !!
This is actually really cool. I never saw anyone remove a board in this manner. It’s almost always done with a steamer. I really like this idea. Old tools are truly incredibly useful and more durable - they don’t break after a year, lol. Slow and steady wins the race!
Direct heat on nitro cellulose inlays? I would not take the chance they are going to light on fire...Ive done hundreds of removals without destroying FBs . I leave the frets on and they transfer the heat from a small travel iron the the fretboard. 15 minutes tops and completely intact.
I built a crude but effective wooden box that I plug a heat gun into one end, foil and blanket the side the neck inserts into. Surprisingly, my inlays didn't suffer damage. On one neck I had some binding ooze that left tear drops going oddly but fortunately vertical in protrusion, but my heat gun and some pressing with a thin paint scraper easily reformed them. Next go about it, aluminum foil on the headstock and I marked the heat gun dial to reference and slowly increase heat below it while also using a thermometer gun and really long, metal, digital meat thermometer inside the box.
I have seen the clothing iron used many times over many years, *but I still lack the skill to refret an entire board as well as you fellas, so it's acceptable for a novice on that particular process.* For future I have a "train track" tool partially built so the aluminum horizontal pieces under the "track" apply heat directly to the fingerboard.
*I can refret well enough, but lack the experience and confidence to do an entire board on a guitar of true value.* I'll get there though!
I'm surprised no one has invented some sort of plug in heated blade with a handle on both ends for doing this...
Yea I have that design in my head. Just a really specific tool.
🙂
That's a pretty handy tool.
Good to see you back at it!
I finally just built a box to bake necks with some treated fence planks, *but it was a trial and error process and I had a one neck's binding melt and this resulted in some tear dropped spots.*
Fortunately, I tested my heat gun and just pressing on the deformations and it easily returned to shape. A little more heat and a paint scraper will get it >95%, and then some mild sanding and polishing will have it repaired. *I have a looooot of necks to repair but lower heat and aluminum foil around the headstock will produce what we're all looking for.*
I have heard many luthiers oppose neck baking to straighten necks, but too many other guys that have done it for decades that swear by it.
*Ultimately, the 2 necks I did came out perfectly level and I didn't have to pull the fingerboards.* I used zip ties and cuttings of dove tailed foam rubber floor matting on the underside of the neck so the glue would reseat, the steel bar would have significant pressure, and allow everything to harden up to a dream like result.
One neck evacuated a little glue out the sides, not all, which was exactly what I expected since the factory worker in China slathered on way too much glue!
I know you guys that are pros have much better tactics, however, I have about 40 guitars of my own and won't have my lab/workshop in order for at least another month until I can build a much better tool I designed. *Like a railroad track with aluminum bars directly on the fingerboard to get correct heat transfer. I don't want to refret unless I have no other options.* I think I can get away with putting it in the "hot box" that way so I don't have to build a tool with an electric heater built into it.
Glad to see you back, brother!
Big D you are just the coolest!
Woo hoo... thank you, brother!
thanks for the video Derek - would that work with a white tite-bond type glue as well? - Cheers from Canada
it will but steam works better and its slower
Use a iron
You got this Man !!
Where are his tools & why can’t he get to them?
Court Order
Idaho... because he's allergic to potatoes.
Oh man, you've got so much patience. Great stuff. Looking forward to seeing more!
haha thanks!
more videos please!!! i love your work ❤
thanks they are in progress