You just made my life so much easier!!! I'm not handy at all but my 10-year-old wants to learn so I'm getting him supplies to build a workbench for Christmas. I came on RUclips looking to find out how to hang a peg board and I found you! Just ordered cleats and brackets from your store. My son is going so impressed with me! I'm sure he will be watching all of your videos from now on. Thanks for making life so easy for beginners 😁
Thank you for the support. So glad he found a video and thanks for checking out what we do. I think your order should be to you by now or maybe in the next day or so. Anyway, enjoy let me know if you need anything else.
Thank you for this awesome video! I just finished installing a 16 foot French cleat wall along my side of the garage and it turned out terrific thanks to your advice! My favorite tips were trimming off the sharp edges on the table saw, using spacers to install evenly, and brads nails between holes. And now I can’t wait to start building the organizers! Thanks again!
Thank you so much for the shout out. I love the way you use brad nails at each screw point, that is a great idea. It'll definitely help me put some future cleats up easier. And your new/old building looks like a great place for your shipping station.
Chris, you're killing it!! Great video once again and I'm glad your shipping operation is getting so big that you actually need a shipping building!! Keep up the good work and for being an inspiration to all of us!
Nice job. I can see how happy you are now knowing you don’t have to go back to your previous job in the bakery. I’m so glad it’s working out for you and you get to spend more quality time with your family. Dig your channel thanks for sharing
This is the first video I've seen mention the width of the cleat AND the spacing between them. I like the look of 10" you mentioned and I'll be using that when I rework mine. Thanks!
Thanks for the kind words Chris. Great video on making your cleats and installing them. You nailed it with the essentials on how to get them uniform and taking off that sharp edge. Way to go man! I'm excited to see you using the new shipping station.
Love french cleats and really enjoyed this video! Thanks for some great tips too. It's so nice for you to have your office/shipping area separate from the shop now.
You are probably the only one that has a wood wall to attach too. What a pain to find the studs in my garage. I rebuilt my entire house and struggle to find studs in my garage. Gezz.
I have been using French cleats for years. I didn't know that they were called that for ages, we called them split batten fixings. Maybe a regional difference? I am from the UK. I have also used an extruded aluminium version for pictures that was sold using the name Z bar hangers.
Awesome idea to sell cleat packs to go along with all of your great cleat products. I have a feeling there are a lot of folks out there without table saws who will love this new option. I've seen a number of SLC's cleat vids. The guy is a genius at French cleat tool holders and accessories. But I gotta tell you, Chris - you're definitely in his league. Your tool holders have always been innovative, practical, and elegant, including the products you sell.
I find it out that RUclips just now started showing me your videos. Great work, can't wait until another rain day here in Milford to catch up on more of your videos...😁
Great job, both on the new space and the description of making French cleats. I have put a lot of French cleats in my shop area, too, and I ended up with something eerily similar to what you use-the sizing, spacing, process, and other details you describe are what I’ve found work really well, too. I really wish there’d been a video like this back when I put together my space! My one main difference is that I put my cleats over drywall-not ideal but with a little beefier screw I’ve found it’s possible and they work well. But, yeah, go with the wood walls, if at all possible!
Definitely a great sister. Even overdrywall into studs is really all you need. I definitely do a bit overkill but it’s what I think works best because I got a little kids running around
1/2 CLEAT FORMULA USING A PIECE OF 6” WIDE, 3/4 “THICK PLY saw fence is at 6 in subtract 1/2 the width - that'd be 3 in subtract 1/2 the thickness of the ply - that'd be 3/8 in subtract 1/2 the thickness of your blade - that be 1/16. this would leave you with you fence at 2.5 in + a tick added due to plywood being a bit under sized --stated another way-- F = Fence setting required to split piece in half with 45 deg. cut W = width of stock to be cut in half T = thickness of stock B = thickness of blade F = W - (W/2) + (T/2) + (B/2) F = 6 - ((6/2) + (.75/2) + (.125/2)) F = 6 - (3 + .375 + .06250 F = 6 - 3.4375 F = 2.5625" (2-9/16")
I've taken this and am showing a metric example: (The kerf of my blade is 3.2mm ... YMMV as not all saw blades are equal.) F = W - ((W/2) + (T/2) + (B/2)) F = 150mm - ((150mm/2) + (12mm/2) + (3.2mm/2)) F = 150mm - (75mm + 6mm + 1.6mm) F = 150mm - 82.6mm F = 67.4mm www.youtube.com/@bobd. ... your example is missing a few brackets for clarity. F = W - ( (W/2) + (T/2) + (B/2) ) Hopefully this helps some people that come along late to the party like I did and don't work with imperial measurements.
OK So I tried this on the weekend for the first time and my first 45 deg. cut was sooooo far off ... I've just thought about it a bit and I think that what is unclear about this fence setting calculation is ... well at least for me ... if we are looking at the end of the board, are we setting the fence relative to the top of the cut, or the bottom of the cut? What I mean is ... my blade on my table saw tips over to the right looking like this ... [ / ] so is the "F" in the calculations at the top of the slash or the bottom?
Awesome video and very inspiring. This 62 grandmother is going to give it a go to build a cleat wall for 10” plant boxes. I’m confused as to what “subtract 1/2 the thickness of your blade - that be 1/16” are all blades the same? This would leave you with you fence at 2.5 in + a tick; what’s a tick? Thank you.
I'm guessing that you've moved on from this, and hopefully you got your answers ... but no not all saw blades are the same ... and a tick in this instance I'm guessing is "just a little bit". I hope that your planter boxes worked out.
Hope your well Chris. Awesome video as always and when I hear the word French Cleat I always see your face. I too have the Evolution range and a happy user, from the Rage 5 table saw - R210SMS+ 210mm Sliding Mitre Saw and the Evolution R185CCSX+ 185mm Track Circular Saw. Looking forward to the new video of your Shed and the build. stay safe buddy.
It looks like I have a similar building as yours. Do you have a video how you approached hanging your plywood to your metal studs? I looked…didn’t see anything. Thanks
If you don’t own a laser level (as you mentioned; and not everyone does of course)…You could use a chalk line. Just make sure to use the right type of chalk “permanence level” (your most comfortable with. Preferably just a level 1 (or 2) so if you make a mistake you can remark.
Awesome video Chris!!! Have you tried the dual bevel cleats at all? Like you talked about the ones Pete made? Do you think you would offer the dual beveled cleats?
Yes I have a few of those in my Shop as well and I like them too. Those are fantastic if you’re going to space them close together with even spacing across-the-board. That’s ideal for that system
A great video, very instructive. Thank you. I have a question. What made you decide to cut strips 5 1/2” wide. Why not the 6” you used in the formula you provided. Or any other wide for that matter?
No, I would not do that just because you might need to move them around every once in a while. I’m actually in the process of changing things around where I’m glad I didn’t because I’m having to take them off and put them in different spots.
Hi Chris, great video thank you. When I asked about cleats they were about 2 1/2 and 45s on both sides, did that change. That's what I was doing when I got a "kickback" so now I'm not sure if I was doing it the right way? Thank you
Yeah that would be fine I just made these a little bit bigger that way they can be just a little bit stronger but really the difference is pretty negligible
Hi Chris, Great video and information. You mentioned that you used a Harbor Freight 3 piece counter sink bore. I went to the Harbor Freight website and entered that description and could not get their website to respond at all. Could you please reply with the link and consider adding it to the other links you have for your products used. Thanks, Myles
I'm going to take a wild guess and say the business is definitely doing great with the new shipping area coming into force. The next steps brother is taking on staffing to make the whole process go smoothly so you can just spend your time in the workshop creating new an innovative designs. Great to see you doing so well brother and I hope you're family is all OK, any news on your wife's condition or is she still going through the mill?. As always brother 💯% 👍 🇬🇧.
Ok, another question. You said you would go anymore than 11” between the screws. My walls are drywall, so I would have to put screws in every 16”. Now my plans are only to hang tools, so crushing the drywall hanging a desk is not an issue.
Man I got nothing to hide. I do the 11 inch mark because it’s just what I found comfortable withholding up to 500 pounds. That’s hardly rational with the system it’s usually overkill as you see I get up on this furniture I make hanging on Cleat walls. But absolutely 2 1/2 inch screws into the studs is well within reason
@@AGlimpseInside Chris, sorry, wasn't trying to imply you were up to something, just that your 11" number wasn't formulaic (like your halving a board with a 45° cut), it was [more informally derived]. And of course the main point was to re-assure Scott that just attaching to the studs would work fine for him.
There’s a minimum cost to this. So we wrapped up actually spraying two sheds. So if I was gonna get one shed it would’ve been 1800 but because we did too it was 1300 each
Hi Chris. Did I miss the bench build? Is it suspended solely on the cleats? Is one side also on the cleat wall? It seems to heavy to not be supported on at least one side. Anyway, nice Jobe. Good content as usual. I'm gonna go check the links now. I appreciate all you do. Thanx, Greg
ruclips.net/video/JP0Yq2qQ61Q/видео.html Here’s a video of the wall mounted workstation. It’s supported just on the one wall. You can see the infrastructure in this video and how I was able to make it all work
@@AGlimpseInside Thank you. A good build. I don't have CNC but the design is pretty straight forward so I'm gonna try it 'old school's. I could see these brackets for temporary outfeed/indeed and other applications
hey Chris, great video. Thank you. You may have said this in the video, but if so I missed it ... what thickness of birch ply are you using for the panels themselves?
In your directions for calculating where to set the saw fence when cutting the 45 degree, it says "½ Cleat"; I assume that means "cutting the 6" wide strip in half," not ½ inch cleat, right? Because you are using ¾" plywood, not ½" plywood - just checking. Also can I use ½" plywood on the wall instead of ¾" (then attache the ¾" plywood strips to it)?
Chris, I have a question about the Birch plywood. Why do you and all the other woodworkers on RUclips use it for everything (cabinets, etc, I understand) ? My Home Depot Chargers $90 a 3/4" sheet for it and $40 a 3/4" sheet for RTD (regular unsanded?).
It comes down to stability and lack of voids inside the layers. I personally need the aesthetic of the multiple layers. As they just look better. The veneer on both sides is also much thicker where you won’t blow through it when sanding.
No, it doesn’t have to be cut exactly in half. I only do that so everything matches up. Especially because I sell the cleats. Furthermore, yes you can use that mirror adhesive and you should be in good shape.
Great video! I've been adding cleats to my shop slowly. My walls are OSB rather than baltic birch like yours. The great thing that baltic birch provides is strength and attaching the cleats directly into studs isn't necessary. Would you trust cleats drilled into OSB without drilling into the studs behind?
Yes I would. I would make sure that the screws were appropriately sized maybe a quarter of an inch longer than both materials combined and a tip about OSB and strength is screw in the screws at a slight left and right angle 10 or 15° alternating every other screw this will give you a little bit better hold
Great work (both the woodwork and the video). Do you use the same width for the cleats on the tool side as you have on the wall side? Or do you vary according to weight? Thanks.
For me a french cleat system is best on a wall by itself. I made one over my workbench and it takes up too much space over my workbench. It's a good system but you'll have to find how it will work best for you.
I agree with this. You can overload it and creates a bit of visual noise. I was actually going to do a video on this topic because you can get carried away for sure.
Hey Chris, did you have a video on your shipping stations cleat build? I need to build a desktop against my walls, in a corner configuration as well. I was thinking I needed some form of gusset below to provide strength? I'm thinking of building the cleat wall onto my drywalled room, studs are metal and for now I have access to the backside of those walls if needed. My desktop/counter will be about 20" deep, so my biggest concern is that triangular gusset question. Thanks Chris.
TIP: Put 1 rubber band on & around on both ends of your level(s); especially for longer levels and working by yourself. It prevents the level from slipping/moving around.
Getting ready to cut a bunch of plywood cleats to go with some gifts I got from your site and for some stuff in my space too. With the cost of nice plywood, I am trying to get as much as possible out of each sheet... So please forgive the extra questions: Using 4'x8' sheets of plywood and an 1/8" kerf blade... that still takes a bit off things... so are you shorting each piece just a bit so you can get all eight almost 6" pieces or are you doing a true 6" for most then just losing the last one (eight cuts with 1/8" blade loses 1") and using that 5" piece as scrap for something else?
I ripped down 5 1/2 inch wide strips that are cut from half of that 4 x 8. So essentially I have a bunch of 5“ x 4‘ strips then I rip those and have to make two cleats. Then to cut the Klica angle my blade over 45 of course. And then sit in my fence to roughly 2 1/4 inches. Give or take an eighth depending on your set up
How long are the screws you use to mount the cleats to the wall? I am considering a French cleat system on a concrete block wall. I will mount a 3/4" piece of plywood directly to the wall. If my cleat is 3/4" with a 1/4" counter sink, and my wall is 3/4" that means I have to use a 1-1/4" screw which seems kind of short.
Not a bad gig... $24 for essentially 1 strip of an 8 ft sheet. Home Depot in Florida has a 4x8 sheet at about $80. You can get 18 strips from a sheet. $24 x 18 = $432 - $80 = Net Profit of $352. Not sure how much to ship, but I'm sure it's not much with the volume you deal with. We'll say $5/ package. That's another $90. That brings the net profit to $262. Figure at the most 1 hour labor... probably a half hour more like it. $524 an hour. I ain't mad at ya. Congratulations on your success!
I can appreciate the math. This stuff is not from Home Depot. Baltic cost up for of 150 per sheet around the country. And the price is rising. It also takes a bit more than a half hour. Your numbers are off. I can only wish that my profit margins could be that attractive
@@AGlimpseInside fair enough. I stand corrected. Still giving you a hearty congratulations on your success. The only thing I can see that exceeds that success is your humbleness. Just a couple reasons I subscribe to your channel. That... and your kids. 🥰
Thank you bro I appreciate the kind words. Hope you don’t mind me making the correction. I think you know why. Again thank you for your support and the kind words and check it out what we’re doing here on this channel
Well, great job on the cleats. Couple of dings 5 1/2 is not standard so people buying it from you now always locked into this configuration. Second evolution saw is terrible, some European company decided to market and sell saw with 10 inch blade and 1 inch arbor. Good luck finding blades you need with more teeth or different configuration. Standard arbor size for 10 inch is 5/8.
Yes but I don’t recommend it can be a bit dicey but you can do this with clamped straight edges and a little bit of skill. It’s all about what you’re comfortable with
Dude the best thing I have ever done is to do a French cleat wall for all the tools. No more drawers etc. 🤘🏼I can find tools now without searching for hours! 😂🤣🤣😂
I am not a huge fan of French cleats, maybe I am missing something. When I grab an item, I knock the cleat off the wall, so I end up screwing the cleat to the wall, mostly defeating the purpose of the cleat
You just made my life so much easier!!! I'm not handy at all but my 10-year-old wants to learn so I'm getting him supplies to build a workbench for Christmas. I came on RUclips looking to find out how to hang a peg board and I found you! Just ordered cleats and brackets from your store. My son is going so impressed with me! I'm sure he will be watching all of your videos from now on. Thanks for making life so easy for beginners 😁
Thank you for the support. So glad he found a video and thanks for checking out what we do. I think your order should be to you by now or maybe in the next day or so. Anyway, enjoy let me know if you need anything else.
Chris is the real deal. He stands behind his work, and makes quality parts for the woodworking community.
Thank you for the support Rick really do appreciate the kind words my friend
Thank you for this awesome video! I just finished installing a 16 foot French cleat wall along my side of the garage and it turned out terrific thanks to your advice! My favorite tips were trimming off the sharp edges on the table saw, using spacers to install evenly, and brads nails between holes. And now I can’t wait to start building the organizers! Thanks again!
Thank you so much for the shout out.
I love the way you use brad nails at each screw point, that is a great idea. It'll definitely help me put some future cleats up easier.
And your new/old building looks like a great place for your shipping station.
You got it brother. You are a fountain of information on the topic your shout out is well deserved.
You are awesome Chris! Thank you so much for the shout out 👍🔥🔥🔥❤️😀
No formula added to the description. Thanks!!!!! Love your channel
Hi Chris from over here in Ireland. Great job Chris , love your work and your inspirational ideas.
Chris, you're killing it!! Great video once again and I'm glad your shipping operation is getting so big that you actually need a shipping building!! Keep up the good work and for being an inspiration to all of us!
Thank you Jered. I really appreciate it buddy!!
Nice job. I can see how happy you are now knowing you don’t have to go back to your previous job in the bakery. I’m so glad it’s working out for you and you get to spend more quality time with your family. Dig your channel thanks for sharing
Yeah it’s a nice feeling. Knowing that I finally get the carve my own path through this maker world!
I just have one thing to say to you sir… GENIUS!!! Pure… unrefined… uncut… GENIUS!!!
This is the first video I've seen mention the width of the cleat AND the spacing between them. I like the look of 10" you mentioned and I'll be using that when I rework mine. Thanks!
Thanks for the kind words Chris. Great video on making your cleats and installing them. You nailed it with the essentials on how to get them uniform and taking off that sharp edge. Way to go man! I'm excited to see you using the new shipping station.
You’re very welcome Steve. Well-deserved and happy to give you a nod. Hope you’re doing well and keep doing your thing
just found your channel and website. LOVE IT!! your products have given me so many new ideas for how to organize. Thank you.
Great looking space!
The new place is looking sweet, Chris! Really nice! 😃
Brilliant idea about offering cleats like that!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Love french cleats and really enjoyed this video! Thanks for some great tips too. It's so nice for you to have your office/shipping area separate from the shop now.
It is very nice thank you so much I appreciate you checking it out take care Lori
Very nice dedicated space. Congrats!
Love your work Chris! Great little new set up. Holy smokes I never realised when installed properly you would hold that much
Hey brother, you are a phenomenal maker and an huge inspiration to all of us!! Thank you for what you do!
Thank you brother means so much
Selling cleats is a really good idea. I hope it goes well for you as well as everything else.
Well done brother. The new space looks great.. keep up the great work! And the great videos!
You are probably the only one that has a wood wall to attach too. What a pain to find the studs in my garage. I rebuilt my entire house and struggle to find studs in my garage. Gezz.
Love it! Thanks, Chris, for answering all the questions in my head about French cleat shop wall setup. Looking forward to putting your wisdom to work.
You’re welcome Tom. Thank you brother
Great idea for the back of the mobile hanger pieces to hang right side up or upside-down depending on the need. It's like two hangers in one.
I have been using French cleats for years. I didn't know that they were called that for ages, we called them split batten fixings. Maybe a regional difference? I am from the UK.
I have also used an extruded aluminium version for pictures that was sold using the name Z bar hangers.
Very cool transformation sir! 👍
I really like your woodwork in French cleats. You make really great projects.
Awesome idea to sell cleat packs to go along with all of your great cleat products. I have a feeling there are a lot of folks out there without table saws who will love this new option.
I've seen a number of SLC's cleat vids. The guy is a genius at French cleat tool holders and accessories. But I gotta tell you, Chris - you're definitely in his league. Your tool holders have always been innovative, practical, and elegant, including the products you sell.
Thank you will I appreciate the kind words more than you know
FANTASTIC video. I really don't want to spend extra money on plywood so can just the slats to each stud ?
I find it out that RUclips just now started showing me your videos. Great work, can't wait until another rain day here in Milford to catch up on more of your videos...😁
My basement is full of them and several of your tool and shelf holders...with more to come!!!
Great job, both on the new space and the description of making French cleats. I have put a lot of French cleats in my shop area, too, and I ended up with something eerily similar to what you use-the sizing, spacing, process, and other details you describe are what I’ve found work really well, too. I really wish there’d been a video like this back when I put together my space! My one main difference is that I put my cleats over drywall-not ideal but with a little beefier screw I’ve found it’s possible and they work well. But, yeah, go with the wood walls, if at all possible!
Definitely a great sister. Even overdrywall into studs is really all you need. I definitely do a bit overkill but it’s what I think works best because I got a little kids running around
1/2 CLEAT FORMULA
USING A PIECE OF 6” WIDE, 3/4 “THICK PLY
saw fence is at 6 in
subtract 1/2 the width - that'd be 3 in
subtract 1/2 the thickness of the ply - that'd be 3/8 in
subtract 1/2 the thickness of your blade - that be 1/16.
this would leave you with you fence at 2.5 in + a tick
added due to plywood being a bit under sized
--stated another way--
F = Fence setting required to split piece in half with 45 deg. cut
W = width of stock to be cut in half
T = thickness of stock
B = thickness of blade
F = W - (W/2) + (T/2) + (B/2)
F = 6 - ((6/2) + (.75/2) + (.125/2))
F = 6 - (3 + .375 + .06250
F = 6 - 3.4375
F = 2.5625" (2-9/16")
This is so cool man thanks for doing this
Helpful maths - thanks
I've taken this and am showing a metric example: (The kerf of my blade is 3.2mm ... YMMV as not all saw blades are equal.)
F = W - ((W/2) + (T/2) + (B/2))
F = 150mm - ((150mm/2) + (12mm/2) + (3.2mm/2))
F = 150mm - (75mm + 6mm + 1.6mm)
F = 150mm - 82.6mm
F = 67.4mm
www.youtube.com/@bobd. ... your example is missing a few brackets for clarity. F = W - ( (W/2) + (T/2) + (B/2) )
Hopefully this helps some people that come along late to the party like I did and don't work with imperial measurements.
OK So I tried this on the weekend for the first time and my first 45 deg. cut was sooooo far off ... I've just thought about it a bit and I think that what is unclear about this fence setting calculation is ... well at least for me ... if we are looking at the end of the board, are we setting the fence relative to the top of the cut, or the bottom of the cut? What I mean is ... my blade on my table saw tips over to the right looking like this ... [ / ] so is the "F" in the calculations at the top of the slash or the bottom?
Awesome video and very inspiring. This 62 grandmother is going to give it a go to build a cleat wall for 10” plant boxes. I’m confused as to what “subtract 1/2 the thickness of your blade - that be 1/16” are all blades the same?
This would leave you with you fence at 2.5 in + a tick; what’s a tick? Thank you.
I'm guessing that you've moved on from this, and hopefully you got your answers ... but no not all saw blades are the same ... and a tick in this instance I'm guessing is "just a little bit". I hope that your planter boxes worked out.
I thought I had a goofy brother but man you the Goof is dude I've ever watched
Hope your well Chris. Awesome video as always and when I hear the word French Cleat I always see your face. I too have the Evolution range and a happy user, from the Rage 5 table saw - R210SMS+ 210mm Sliding Mitre Saw and the Evolution R185CCSX+ 185mm Track Circular Saw. Looking forward to the new video of your Shed and the build. stay safe buddy.
Hey buddy good to hear from you. Hope all is going over across the pond well for you. Good to hear from you I mean it. been wondering how you been
@@AGlimpseInside A little busy with work at the moment but still here Chris playing catch up.
Man what a great Shipping Shed!
Gave you a like but let me ask: is there a video for that counter and how to affix the cleat to the back to make it go on the French cleat system?
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
It looks like I have a similar building as yours. Do you have a video how you approached hanging your plywood to your metal studs? I looked…didn’t see anything. Thanks
If you don’t own a laser level (as you mentioned; and not everyone does of course)…You could use a chalk line. Just make sure to use the right type of chalk “permanence level” (your most comfortable with. Preferably just a level 1 (or 2) so if you make a mistake you can remark.
Do you have a video showing how you built that floating tabletop? I would love to how that’s built to prevent it from sloping.
Awesome video Chris!!! Have you tried the dual bevel cleats at all? Like you talked about the ones Pete made? Do you think you would offer the dual beveled cleats?
Yes I have a few of those in my Shop as well and I like them too. Those are fantastic if you’re going to space them close together with even spacing across-the-board. That’s ideal for that system
Do you think you would sell the dual bevel cleats also?
Great videos mate, thanks all the way from Easington in the North East of England
Thank you so much, brother. I really appreciate it.
Thanks for the details
Hi can’t find the formula for the cleats?
Great video and links - anyone used OSB 3 particle for the cleats, hobbyist so birch plywood not within budget.
Love the Brad nail trick brother! I make my cleats all with double bevels. Saved me a ton of cuts.
A great video, very instructive. Thank you. I have a question. What made you decide to cut strips 5 1/2” wide. Why not the 6” you used in the formula you provided. Or any other wide for that matter?
Well, I figured it out near the end of the video. 5 1/2” when cut in half, with 1/8” cut off, leaves you with a 3” cleat. Got it.
Can you please link the harbor freight counter sink you showed? Ty
Great video! Would you consider glueing the cleats to the wall? Thanks
No, I would not do that just because you might need to move them around every once in a while. I’m actually in the process of changing things around where I’m glad I didn’t because I’m having to take them off and put them in different spots.
Hi Chris, great video thank you. When I asked about cleats they were about 2 1/2 and 45s on both sides, did that change. That's what I was doing when I got a "kickback" so now I'm not sure if I was doing it the right way? Thank you
Yeah that would be fine I just made these a little bit bigger that way they can be just a little bit stronger but really the difference is pretty negligible
That body-weight test really gives confidence that it's sturdy!
I ordered your French cleats and drill holders. I’m setting up a tool & fasteners area. Table saw not 👀 to buy one yet. Navy Girl in Williamsburg VA.
I saw that thank you very much actually packing them up this morning. Thank you again for the support it means a lot to us!
Hi Chris, Great video and information. You mentioned that you used a Harbor Freight 3 piece counter sink bore. I went to the Harbor Freight website and entered that description and could not get their website to respond at all. Could you please reply with the link and consider adding it to the other links you have for your products used. Thanks, Myles
www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/drill-driver-bits/woodboring-bits/countersink.html
I'm going to take a wild guess and say the business is definitely doing great with the new shipping area coming into force. The next steps brother is taking on staffing to make the whole process go smoothly so you can just spend your time in the workshop creating new an innovative designs. Great to see you doing so well brother and I hope you're family is all OK, any news on your wife's condition or is she still going through the mill?. As always brother 💯% 👍 🇬🇧.
Great job.
Ok, another question. You said you would go anymore than 11” between the screws. My walls are drywall, so I would have to put screws in every 16”. Now my plans are only to hang tools, so crushing the drywall hanging a desk is not an issue.
Notice he didn't show the engineering on that 11" statement? Use 2.5" deck screws into your studs and you'll be just fine.
Man I got nothing to hide. I do the 11 inch mark because it’s just what I found comfortable withholding up to 500 pounds. That’s hardly rational with the system it’s usually overkill as you see I get up on this furniture I make hanging on Cleat walls. But absolutely 2 1/2 inch screws into the studs is well within reason
@@AGlimpseInside Chris, sorry, wasn't trying to imply you were up to something, just that your 11" number wasn't formulaic (like your halving a board with a 45° cut), it was [more informally derived]. And of course the main point was to re-assure Scott that just attaching to the studs would work fine for him.
Do you have stock in Baltic Birch. It’s everywhere. Big box on the west coast of Fla is $90 sheet.
how much did it cost to insulate with spray foam? been thinking about doing that for some time but wanted to get a ballpark idea on cost.
There’s a minimum cost to this. So we wrapped up actually spraying two sheds. So if I was gonna get one shed it would’ve been 1800 but because we did too it was 1300 each
Hi Chris. Did I miss the bench build? Is it suspended solely on the cleats? Is one side also on the cleat wall? It seems to heavy to not be supported on at least one side. Anyway, nice Jobe. Good content as usual. I'm gonna go check the links now. I appreciate all you do. Thanx, Greg
ruclips.net/video/JP0Yq2qQ61Q/видео.html
Here’s a video of the wall mounted workstation. It’s supported just on the one wall. You can see the infrastructure in this video and how I was able to make it all work
@@AGlimpseInside Thank you. A good build. I don't have CNC but the design is pretty straight forward so I'm gonna try it 'old school's. I could see these brackets for temporary outfeed/indeed and other applications
hey Chris, great video. Thank you. You may have said this in the video, but if so I missed it ... what thickness of birch ply are you using for the panels themselves?
3/4 of an inch through and through. Thanks for the kind words.
In your directions for calculating where to set the saw fence when cutting the 45 degree, it says "½ Cleat"; I assume that means "cutting the 6" wide strip in half," not ½ inch cleat, right? Because you are using ¾" plywood, not ½" plywood - just checking. Also can I use ½" plywood on the wall instead of ¾" (then attache the ¾" plywood strips to it)?
Yes, it’s cutting them in half. To give you two identical strips.
How thick is the plywood you put on the wall?
Very nice matey.
Chris, I have a question about the Birch plywood. Why do you and all the other woodworkers on RUclips use it for everything (cabinets, etc, I understand) ? My Home Depot Chargers $90 a 3/4" sheet for it and $40 a 3/4" sheet for RTD (regular unsanded?).
It comes down to stability and lack of voids inside the layers. I personally need the aesthetic of the multiple layers. As they just look better. The veneer on both sides is also much thicker where you won’t blow through it when sanding.
Ohhh, less voids and thicker outside veneers. Definitely great reasons to go for it instead of just because it looks nicer! Thanks!
Hey Chris does the French cleat have to be cut exactly in the middle? And can I use miror glue to glue to back of heavy frameless miror
No, it doesn’t have to be cut exactly in half. I only do that so everything matches up. Especially because I sell the cleats. Furthermore, yes you can use that mirror adhesive and you should be in good shape.
Can you tell me the name of the song you used in the intro of this video? I've been trying to find out what it is for ages and it's driving me crazy!
Absolutely. The song is called parasail
Thank you SO much! The craziness ends now!
Aaah not that one lol the one with the whistling
By the way, subscribed!
Expanding again. You better start planning the layout for the 50,000 sq. ft. building in the future.🤑
Great video! I've been adding cleats to my shop slowly. My walls are OSB rather than baltic birch like yours. The great thing that baltic birch provides is strength and attaching the cleats directly into studs isn't necessary. Would you trust cleats drilled into OSB without drilling into the studs behind?
Yes I would. I would make sure that the screws were appropriately sized maybe a quarter of an inch longer than both materials combined and a tip about OSB and strength is screw in the screws at a slight left and right angle 10 or 15° alternating every other screw this will give you a little bit better hold
Hello Chris. Love your French cleat videos. One detail I never seem to catch is the thickness of your cleats. Can you provide? Thanks.
Material is 3/4 of an inch thick and is 3 inches tall is the highest point
@@AGlimpseInside You're a good man, Chris. Thanks for all of your insights and tips.
Chris can a slat wall be used for french clets?
“A Glimpse Inside” AKA…”The French Cleat Channel”😂👍🏼
Great work (both the woodwork and the video). Do you use the same width for the cleats on the tool side as you have on the wall side? Or do you vary according to weight? Thanks.
A little bi smaller is what I do. Seams to work well
For me a french cleat system is best on a wall by itself. I made one over my workbench and it takes up too much space over my workbench. It's a good system but you'll have to find how it will work best for you.
I agree with this. You can overload it and creates a bit of visual noise. I was actually going to do a video on this topic because you can get carried away for sure.
Nice
What size screws do you use?
Hey Chris, did you have a video on your shipping stations cleat build? I need to build a desktop against my walls, in a corner configuration as well. I was thinking I needed some form of gusset below to provide strength? I'm thinking of building the cleat wall onto my drywalled room, studs are metal and for now I have access to the backside of those walls if needed. My desktop/counter will be about 20" deep, so my biggest concern is that triangular gusset question. Thanks Chris.
Yeah I think it’s about 30 videos ago
Thanks for the kind words James I appreciate it
First one I've seen put two screws. Wish I had the money to buy all that plywood to do my shop.
TIP: Put 1 rubber band on & around on both ends of your level(s); especially for longer levels and working by yourself. It prevents the level from slipping/moving around.
Gotta make room but I’m gonna get some to hang my kayak!
Oh that would be awesome.
Getting ready to cut a bunch of plywood cleats to go with some gifts I got from your site and for some stuff in my space too. With the cost of nice plywood, I am trying to get as much as possible out of each sheet...
So please forgive the extra questions:
Using 4'x8' sheets of plywood and an 1/8" kerf blade... that still takes a bit off things... so are you shorting each piece just a bit so you can get all eight almost 6" pieces or are you doing a true 6" for most then just losing the last one (eight cuts with 1/8" blade loses 1") and using that 5" piece as scrap for something else?
I ripped down 5 1/2 inch wide strips that are cut from half of that 4 x 8. So essentially I have a bunch of 5“ x 4‘ strips then I rip those and have to make two cleats. Then to cut the Klica angle my blade over 45 of course. And then sit in my fence to roughly 2 1/4 inches. Give or take an eighth depending on your set up
@@AGlimpseInside cool thanks
Can you just come and do my shop? Looks great!
It’s in the description no I totally forgot
I'm looking to do plywood walls in my shop being built. What thickness of plywood did you use for the walls?
3/4 in. Totally worth it
How long are the screws you use to mount the cleats to the wall? I am considering a French cleat system on a concrete block wall. I will mount a 3/4" piece of plywood directly to the wall. If my cleat is 3/4" with a 1/4" counter sink, and my wall is 3/4" that means I have to use a 1-1/4" screw which seems kind of short.
I’m confused.
Why don’t you screw the cleats directly to the concrete blocks?
"subtract 1/2 the thickness of your blade - that be 1/8 in "
That be 1/16".
Pat thank you so much it’s been fixed. I was in a rush I apologize. I had to make my daughter Ramen lol
@@AGlimpseInside It's all good!
Great system. What brand was your mitre saw?
Evolution is the brand. Famous for being able to cut so many different materials
@@AGlimpseInside , is that the blade or the saw?
Not a bad gig... $24 for essentially 1 strip of an 8 ft sheet. Home Depot in Florida has a 4x8 sheet at about $80. You can get 18 strips from a sheet. $24 x 18 = $432 - $80 = Net Profit of $352. Not sure how much to ship, but I'm sure it's not much with the volume you deal with. We'll say $5/ package. That's another $90. That brings the net profit to $262. Figure at the most 1 hour labor... probably a half hour more like it. $524 an hour. I ain't mad at ya. Congratulations on your success!
I can appreciate the math. This stuff is not from Home Depot. Baltic cost up for of 150 per sheet around the country. And the price is rising. It also takes a bit more than a half hour. Your numbers are off. I can only wish that my profit margins could be that attractive
If you can find good quality Baltic Birch, especially 11+ layers, at HD or any other big box stores you're lucky - and if for
@@AGlimpseInside fair enough. I stand corrected. Still giving you a hearty congratulations on your success. The only thing I can see that exceeds that success is your humbleness. Just a couple reasons I subscribe to your channel. That... and your kids. 🥰
Thank you bro I appreciate the kind words. Hope you don’t mind me making the correction. I think you know why. Again thank you for your support and the kind words and check it out what we’re doing here on this channel
Well, great job on the cleats. Couple of dings 5 1/2 is not standard so people buying it from you now always locked into this configuration. Second evolution saw is terrible, some European company decided to market and sell saw with 10 inch blade and 1 inch arbor. Good luck finding blades you need with more teeth or different configuration. Standard arbor size for 10 inch is 5/8.
Are you worried about the supply of baltic birch plywood given who the supplier is?
I’m looking for other options as we speak. I’m trying domestic and some from India. Looks like an alternative is not gonna be a problem to find
Nicely done, you forgot the glue! Lol!
Thanks however I never put glue on my cleats especially on the wall
Ok were do i order cut cleats and price
@@wer1984bird www.aglimpseinside.org
Our entire catalog is here
Can this be done with a circular saw?
Yes but I don’t recommend it can be a bit dicey but you can do this with clamped straight edges and a little bit of skill. It’s all about what you’re comfortable with
Dude the best thing I have ever done is to do a French cleat wall for all the tools. No more drawers etc. 🤘🏼I can find tools now without searching for hours! 😂🤣🤣😂
Most definitely. I agree
Hey do you sell your french cleat phone holder?
Unfortunately no. Maybe I should design one of the CNC though
That would be awesome! Could also make it so a wireless charger could fit in behind some how. Just an idea! Keep up the great work!
I am not a huge fan of French cleats, maybe I am missing something. When I grab an item, I knock the cleat off the wall, so I end up screwing the cleat to the wall, mostly defeating the purpose of the cleat
Add a “lock” to your cleats. Basically a piece of wood that slides between the bottom of the cleat and the bracket.
Shouldn't this be 1/16?
subtract 1/2 the thickness of your blade - that be 1/8 in
So the parallel cleats arent worth it?
Can not find the formula for the cleats !
It’s in the description now I totally forgot
Chris, 6” not 6’ in the formula. Thanks for doing the math for us!
@@spacekb17 fixed thank you so much man
Your premade cleats link is broken.