Yes, iron oxide is technically not iron, but iron oxide can still be detectable in the water as iron based on quite a few experiments that have been done and depending on the method of testing. Either way, I would still check pump impellers or inspect for exposed metals in the tank that may have started corroding.
Yeah. I had a really good, well respected LFS setup my tank over a year ago. I don't know why, but they used two metal hose clamps to help keep the return pump hose secured. One day I just happened to zero in on it and the lower one was rusted bad enough to where the rust was leaking into the pump chamber. Simple fix was to switch it out with a couple of heavy duty cable ties. Not sure what, if any issues it may have ever caused to the tank itself or not. Not sure if I am more surprised they chose to use metal, or that I took soo long to realize it was a bad idea.
Hey Matthew, quick tip I learned on catching the clowns. On the AI Primes set the lights to deep red and they can't see you or the net. Works like a charm. Great video as usual.
@@MyFirstFishTank its testing the exact same elements. It will give you a chart but also an action plan. You don't need to be running the triton method. Most likely different machines but I believe it's a 24 hour turnaround time. You may be able to just drive there. I'm not familiar with southern California's geography.
I had high Tin and aluminum until I found rusting clamps and I heard there were some problems with biobricks releasing both into the water. I struggled with anemones, LPS and SPS. I removed the marine pure bricks, changed the clamps, massive water changes and added PURIT from Brightwell and problems solved. ICP results are spot on now and the tank is thriving. Heavy metals are a problem for inverts and corals.
I would try and figure out where that iron and tin is coming from, it's not something you dose and it shouldn't get through your rodi.... Magnets? Maybe a rouge scraper blade or something. Worth looking into
Manual removal daily or every other day, and going to just dose some microbacter 7 to outcompete it. Trying to stay away from the Chemiclean this time around.
Just a little tip (since i saw you using tap water to clean stuff) I like to flush everything with RO water before I put it into the tank. I'm super paranoid about any unwanted chems from the tap getting released into the tank.
Yeah, that's a good idea. You are not alone! Several people have told me the same thing. I think it comes down a bit to laziness on my part! Maybe one of these days I'll actually set up a RO bucket and do a final rinse. I mean, it could only help right? Thanks for the advice!
hey, I don’t know if you know this I had the same problems that you do, finally fix them or just doing small water changes more frequently and not messing with the chemical they eventually Balance themselves over a couple months.
I would recommend an algae scrubber or refugium rather than bio pellets. Speaking from experience, carbon dosing and bio pellets is like crack for your reef. Once it goes on the drugs, it’s dependent on it and also easy to bottom out nutrients. Worldwide corals doesn’t even worry about nitrates until they go over 30ppm. 😊
Oh that's super interesting. I didn't realize that their tanks had such high nitrate. So I guess I really just shouldn't be concerned then. I only considered adding a biopellet reactor to the 40 gallon tank because it has no means for nitrate reduction, but obviously I didn't need to add it! And I do already have a stocked macroalgae refugium, but it just can't seem to catch up!
If it is maintaining at 20ppm with some regular water changes, I wouldn’t sweat it, honestly. My tank was sitting at 32ppm Nitrate for a while and slowly came down to sit at 8ppm after my refugium took off. What type of Macroalgae are you using and what light are you using with it, and length of photoperiod?
How did the rainbow bubble tip anemone recover again what did you change? My anemones were doing fine until I put them in my new tank they look the exact same as yours did
The zinc isn't very high afik it's on par with copper in terms of toxicity so about 30ug Is when it really needs to be sorted out but closer to 0 is obviously ideal. Also I read somewhere that silicon is a cause for cyanobacteria so it can be a cause for that. I read that sponges like silicone though so a sponge will take it out if it's still a problem when you sort the rodi filter Edit : I had the same test kit as your ammonia test and I always had ammonia readings but when I went to my lfs they said there was none in the tank and recommended I not use that brand test kit anymore. They gave me a salifert test kit instead
Okay, that's good to know about the zinc, super helpful into. I'm hoping that the DI resin change has sorted out the silicon issue. And you are right, I always get some level of ammonia with that test kit! I have so many others I think it's time for a comparison!
Use some bio spira by instant ocean to get rid of the Amonia and Nitrite so your fish are safe. I honestly have never seen a water change do much unless it is a 100% water change.
Well I figured, since I did a 90% water changer, I'd remove 90% of the nitrites and nitrates right? And I actually added Fritz Turbo Start the next day, and that seems to be helping a lot! Thanks for the comment!
I don't think so. I've had it outside for three years now and it works just fine. But maybe there is some sort of chemical thing that is bad? I've never thought about it to be hones.
@@MyFirstFishTank from Google from sunlight :) "perfect environment to grow bacteria, viruses and algae. The water inside the unit is quiescent or not moving, " also "fittings are not uv resistant."
Yes! Congrats! Well, shoot me an email with some more details about your goals for the tank, and in the meantime watch this video and the 40 gallon build list will be a great starting point. myfirstfishtank.com/week-8-saltwateraquarium-build-guides/
I know, I can't believe you caught that! I've had that bag for at least two years, long before I started working with Marine Depot! I usually turn the label around or peel it off. For example, I took the sticker off the biopellets and put it on the back since it was also BRS! But I figured the DI resin shot was far enough away and fast enough! But you caught it!
I thought about it, but since the temperatures are exactly the same, and I just did big water changes on each tank, I figured it would probably be less stressful to just move quickly. Would you have acclimated?
Pellet to frozen food (LRS) was a game-changer for me as well. I still feed the pellets once every 2 weeks or so as a treat. It looks like you are doing your nitrate test kit wrong. You need to level off the little spoon with something flat otherwise you will add too much. I bet your nitrates are fine. And this is just my opinion, but adding biopellets is a mistake. It takes time for things to change. Nothing good happens fast in a reef tank and if you keep up with good habits the nitrates will go down. I wouldn't freak and make changes like that even at 25ppm (which is probably not correct anyway).
Totally get it. Could be high, but I've been testing the NO3 for about 3 months now and it's always high, so probably up there. But, I just learned that WWC doesn't even fret until their nitrates get above 30, so mine are well below that, so definitely no need to panic! I'll be curious to see what happens with the biopellet reactor. I've always shied away from using one, but if there was one tank I would add it to it's the 40 gallon breeder. And that's just because, besides the macroalgae refugium and some ceramic media, there is no sandbed or live rock to help these beneficial bacteria to live. But follow along, we'll know within a few months if it was a bad choice are not! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment and share your thoughts!
Yes first comment !!. Bro why becuase of you a have bough a pair of black storm clownfish . Only thing that sucks I can’t find a nano tank to buy around my area and the worst part is I look at water box and innovative marine website and both out of stock and need a back order. Any help ? I tried looking on CL and OFFERUP no luck
Sweet! Good choice! Well, there are port issues and delays right now, so nobody is getting any tanks. Although I've found some JBJ's in stock at marine depot, so you could check them out.
I'm so glad you said that, because I was wondering if these were like micro-plastics... and evidently they are! I'll be more careful next time and make sure to clean it out over some sort of cloth and then just throw the cloth away. Appreciated!
I am new but found out, no point to check Nitrates if you have high Nitrites as the test kit shows wrong info for Nitrates until you are at 0 Nitiies. Just check Ammonia and Nitrites only during the cycle.
hight magnesium is often couse by solt you use to mix your water, some reef salts have level up macroelements and you dont have many organism that use the magnesium in your clown tank, i Found that my nems doing better in lower magnesium betwen 1220-1360, if its comes to algae in my opinion nothink beats Vibrant,
Yeah, I've heard good things about Vibrant, but it just costs so much more than Razor, and I've had razor work great for me. I've never heard that about nems liking lower magnesium. I'm going to have to do some research. Thanks for commenting!
In my experience Vibrant works great on one thing, then brings out another type of algae. I have been battling Dinos. I saw an old article that suggested raising the tank temp to at least 80°F will slowly kill it off. I did go gradually up from 75-76 and it is def. working. (Throwing in 2 dozen Astrea's hasn't hurt either. Just a suggestion. Just watch that your PH doesn't take a sudden nosedive. I think I'm done going the chemical route. More trouble than it's worth in the end. Plus nothings worse than trying to get your skimmer just right again after being shut off for 3 days!!!
All you had to do add the micro bacteria 7 add 10 ml a day and in a few days your be at 0.10 nitrate. No pellet food just frozen for your be fine. Better fixing the issue. Than creating more problems. Keep up your RO /DI media so silicate not introduced which cause algae
Not a bad idea. I should probably just have a bucket with RODI water always ready. I've just always rinsed with tap water. Do you think i could be adding something bad into the systems?
@@MyFirstFishTank it starts to accumulate after a while , tds metals and medication people dump and flush out in there toilets get into our tap water , the basic filters water treatment do doesn't get %100 of the stuff out
That style of bio pellet reactor is awful. You are better off modding a TLF Phosban or getting one like a reef octo. Basically, you want to push the water down the tube and up through the pellets. There is a mod on R2R for the style of canister you have as well. Bio pellets will lower po4 faster than no3, keep an eye on them.
But wait, it's basically the same thing. Except the water flows down the outside to the bottom and then up. I don't understand how this is so bad for biopellets. Explain please.
@@MyFirstFishTank i guess this will also be the reason why you had problems with the Anemones. Low iodine and high lights is a bad combination and will cause exactly these issues. So i also believe that your iodine dosing is the reason why some of your Anemones are getting better. You should correct the value fast.
Yeah, I'm on that for sure! Daily iodine dosing right now, using a test kit, and stopped running carbon. I'm hoping it keeps getting better! I'm telling you, I've learned so much from having a RUclips channel from people like you!
The metals are not good you can run poly filter to get rid of the, icp always come back with low iodine for everyone lol check the reef to reef forum icp iodine 😂
@@MyFirstFishTank i its old skool WWC use it and alot reefers run it i have it as my final mech filter to my return pump i change it out about once a week depending on how it looks.
Your freaking crazy adding your clowns in the new system so early , its called patience, if you haven't learned that in "all the years" you've been in the hobby then you shouldn't be in it at all , its called building a strong foundation before adding anything at all , you won't see the problem now but futher along the line and history of the tank you will start seeing the problems, I've watched alot of your videos thoe you make some good points ,you still have alot to learn and stop being so dependent on all these fancy gadgets, your basically just putting training wheels on your tanks instead of addressing the real issues
@@MyFirstFishTank im not sure but I will re watch it on my lunch break, i wasn't trying to sound like a dick in the past by the way lol idk I just take it way to serious sometimes, sorry , but beautiful fish by the way
@@MyFirstFishTank i think the results speak for themselves ! very nice from your partr to experiment like this nad have the courage to show it. still ....
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
The clownfish around the 3:50 mark is so cool! I was just sitting there watching him.
Your fish room is seriously inspiring me. I have white walls too. I wanna make my space look like yours
Thanks! I painted the walls a light grey which really helps when taking videos and pictures!
If Iron or Tin are high, check for exposed magnets, metals, or rust. Especially if you aren’t dosing it.
Excellent, that is just the advice I needed. I'll check!
Rust shouldn't be the cause, rust is iron oxide, not iron.
hmm...
Yes, iron oxide is technically not iron, but iron oxide can still be detectable in the water as iron based on quite a few experiments that have been done and depending on the method of testing. Either way, I would still check pump impellers or inspect for exposed metals in the tank that may have started corroding.
Yeah. I had a really good, well respected LFS setup my tank over a year ago. I don't know why, but they used two metal hose clamps to help keep the return pump hose secured. One day I just happened to zero in on it and the lower one was rusted bad enough to where the rust was leaking into the pump chamber.
Simple fix was to switch it out with a couple of heavy duty cable ties. Not sure what, if any issues it may have ever caused to the tank itself or not. Not sure if I am more surprised they chose to use metal, or that I took soo long to realize it was a bad idea.
Hey Matthew, quick tip I learned on catching the clowns. On the AI Primes set the lights to deep red and they can't see you or the net. Works like a charm. Great video as usual.
I have never heard that before! That is genius!!!!
awesome tip dude thank you !
You can do an icp test through unique corals in San Diego. They have a triton machine. Less turnaround time.
So, is there anything different about a Triton machine? Do they test for the same things?
@@MyFirstFishTank its testing the exact same elements. It will give you a chart but also an action plan. You don't need to be running the triton method. Most likely different machines but I believe it's a 24 hour turnaround time. You may be able to just drive there. I'm not familiar with southern California's geography.
Testing looks like mine lately. Did the same regiment. Let’s see how it goes!
I had high Tin and aluminum until I found rusting clamps and I heard there were some problems with biobricks releasing both into the water.
I struggled with anemones, LPS and SPS.
I removed the marine pure bricks, changed the clamps, massive water changes and added PURIT from Brightwell and problems solved. ICP results are spot on now and the tank is thriving.
Heavy metals are a problem for inverts and corals.
Interesting. I don't have any metal clamps, but you are the second person to mention biobricks as being a problem! Why would that be? So interesting!
@@MyFirstFishTank I believe it’s the way they are processed.
Very interested in the upcoming macro algae project. I have struggled with keeping them for a long time. Right on!
You and me both!
This guy is the best he help me a lot on my first fish tank
You are too kind!
@@MyFirstFishTank nah man i like the work i think u don’t remember me I’m the kid that setup the 40 gallon breeder and ask alit of questions
Try the nyos nitrate test kit. It's more accurate
That's my favorite test kit. I just ran out and have all of these others lying around so I'd figure I'd use them up!
I would try and figure out where that iron and tin is coming from, it's not something you dose and it shouldn't get through your rodi.... Magnets? Maybe a rouge scraper blade or something. Worth looking into
Yeah definitely. I'll do some more investigating for sure! Thanks for the comment!
Great videos. Love the ‘warts and all’ honest approach Any plan for how you will tackle the cyano?
Manual removal daily or every other day, and going to just dose some microbacter 7 to outcompete it. Trying to stay away from the Chemiclean this time around.
Just a little tip (since i saw you using tap water to clean stuff) I like to flush everything with RO water before I put it into the tank. I'm super paranoid about any unwanted chems from the tap getting released into the tank.
Yeah, that's a good idea. You are not alone! Several people have told me the same thing. I think it comes down a bit to laziness on my part! Maybe one of these days I'll actually set up a RO bucket and do a final rinse. I mean, it could only help right? Thanks for the advice!
hey, I don’t know if you know this I had the same problems that you do, finally fix them or just doing small water changes more frequently and not messing with the chemical they eventually Balance themselves over a couple months.
I would recommend an algae scrubber or refugium rather than bio pellets. Speaking from experience, carbon dosing and bio pellets is like crack for your reef. Once it goes on the drugs, it’s dependent on it and also easy to bottom out nutrients. Worldwide corals doesn’t even worry about nitrates until they go over 30ppm. 😊
As well, Marc from melev, his tank has been above 40ppm for nitrates as long as I can remember but his tank is doing great
Oh that's super interesting. I didn't realize that their tanks had such high nitrate. So I guess I really just shouldn't be concerned then. I only considered adding a biopellet reactor to the 40 gallon tank because it has no means for nitrate reduction, but obviously I didn't need to add it! And I do already have a stocked macroalgae refugium, but it just can't seem to catch up!
If it is maintaining at 20ppm with some regular water changes, I wouldn’t sweat it, honestly. My tank was sitting at 32ppm Nitrate for a while and slowly came down to sit at 8ppm after my refugium took off. What type of Macroalgae are you using and what light are you using with it, and length of photoperiod?
using the kessil tuna sun, 12 hours a day (at night), and growing that red dragons breath macro, I forget the name!
I've seen thriving sps tanks on RUclips with 20ppm nitrates, while others would panick if their sps tank goes over 8.
Great video 👍👍
Thank you 👍
How did the rainbow bubble tip anemone recover again what did you change? My anemones were doing fine until I put them in my new tank they look the exact same as yours did
The zinc isn't very high afik it's on par with copper in terms of toxicity so about 30ug Is when it really needs to be sorted out but closer to 0 is obviously ideal. Also I read somewhere that silicon is a cause for cyanobacteria so it can be a cause for that. I read that sponges like silicone though so a sponge will take it out if it's still a problem when you sort the rodi filter
Edit : I had the same test kit as your ammonia test and I always had ammonia readings but when I went to my lfs they said there was none in the tank and recommended I not use that brand test kit anymore. They gave me a salifert test kit instead
Okay, that's good to know about the zinc, super helpful into. I'm hoping that the DI resin change has sorted out the silicon issue. And you are right, I always get some level of ammonia with that test kit! I have so many others I think it's time for a comparison!
Use some bio spira by instant ocean to get rid of the Amonia and Nitrite so your fish are safe. I honestly have never seen a water change do much unless it is a 100% water change.
Well I figured, since I did a 90% water changer, I'd remove 90% of the nitrites and nitrates right? And I actually added Fritz Turbo Start the next day, and that seems to be helping a lot! Thanks for the comment!
Add Micro bacteria 7 to help keep your water safe and help it cycle. Feed very little the first week. In a few days your see it cycled
Thanks for the tip!
Smashed this!
:-)
Those clowns are beautiful
I know, I'm falling in love with them!
I have a question, is the RODI filters outside a bad thing as to sun and such?
I don't think so. I've had it outside for three years now and it works just fine. But maybe there is some sort of chemical thing that is bad? I've never thought about it to be hones.
@@MyFirstFishTank from Google from sunlight :) "perfect environment to grow bacteria, viruses and algae. The water inside the unit is quiescent or not moving, " also "fittings are not uv resistant."
very interesting indeed.
If you have that many elements out of range, I suggest you switch salts.
You think that is a lot of elements out of range? I thought it looked pretty good overall, but I honestly know nothing about it!
@@MyFirstFishTank in my opinion, more than 2 things out of range is a lot. It looked like you have 4 or 5, unless I'm mistaken. What salt do you use?
I'm actually transitioning from Aquaforst to Fritz blue box
@@MyFirstFishTank maybe you could do a video doing ICP tests on different salt brands. Just a thought but i bet you'd get a bunch of views.
That's a really good idea!
I've read a couple of times on r2r that as long as you have nitrites, your nitrAte test will give false (way too high) readings.
Oh that's super interesting. I haven't read that. Well, that tank has been consistently high nitrates for 3 months, but I haven't tested for nitrites!
Hey! I just bought my first tank jbj65 gal. Any tips on what gear I should stock it with!?! I really need some help!
Yes! Congrats! Well, shoot me an email with some more details about your goals for the tank, and in the meantime watch this video and the 40 gallon build list will be a great starting point. myfirstfishtank.com/week-8-saltwateraquarium-build-guides/
@@MyFirstFishTank what is your email.
it won't let me type it here, but go to my youtube landing page here and click about. ruclips.net/channel/UCACvMH5z5b6RG_l7zjp_akw
How many gallons is that new long fin clown fiah tank
14 gallons
Should get some marine depot DI resin 😅
I know, I can't believe you caught that! I've had that bag for at least two years, long before I started working with Marine Depot! I usually turn the label around or peel it off. For example, I took the sticker off the biopellets and put it on the back since it was also BRS! But I figured the DI resin shot was far enough away and fast enough! But you caught it!
No acclimating the clowns given the water differences?
I thought about it, but since the temperatures are exactly the same, and I just did big water changes on each tank, I figured it would probably be less stressful to just move quickly. Would you have acclimated?
@@MyFirstFishTank still new to the hobby myself. Not knowing the other tank parameters, I would have. Less stress makes sense too
Pellet to frozen food (LRS) was a game-changer for me as well. I still feed the pellets once every 2 weeks or so as a treat. It looks like you are doing your nitrate test kit wrong. You need to level off the little spoon with something flat otherwise you will add too much. I bet your nitrates are fine. And this is just my opinion, but adding biopellets is a mistake. It takes time for things to change. Nothing good happens fast in a reef tank and if you keep up with good habits the nitrates will go down. I wouldn't freak and make changes like that even at 25ppm (which is probably not correct anyway).
Totally get it. Could be high, but I've been testing the NO3 for about 3 months now and it's always high, so probably up there. But, I just learned that WWC doesn't even fret until their nitrates get above 30, so mine are well below that, so definitely no need to panic! I'll be curious to see what happens with the biopellet reactor. I've always shied away from using one, but if there was one tank I would add it to it's the 40 gallon breeder. And that's just because, besides the macroalgae refugium and some ceramic media, there is no sandbed or live rock to help these beneficial bacteria to live. But follow along, we'll know within a few months if it was a bad choice are not! Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment and share your thoughts!
Yes first comment !!. Bro why becuase of you a have bough a pair of black storm clownfish . Only thing that sucks I can’t find a nano tank to buy around my area and the worst part is I look at water box and innovative marine website and both out of stock and need a back order. Any help ? I tried looking on CL and OFFERUP no luck
Sweet! Good choice! Well, there are port issues and delays right now, so nobody is getting any tanks. Although I've found some JBJ's in stock at marine depot, so you could check them out.
@@MyFirstFishTank I’ve heard of jbj but only bad things so I’ve been apprehensive on getting that brand tank have you used it before?
No, but I just bought one today! So I'm excited. Stay tuned to see if I like it!
Just a heads-up the DI resin is really bad to put down the drain it makes it's way into the ocean
I'm so glad you said that, because I was wondering if these were like micro-plastics... and evidently they are! I'll be more careful next time and make sure to clean it out over some sort of cloth and then just throw the cloth away. Appreciated!
I am new but found out, no point to check Nitrates if you have high Nitrites as the test kit shows wrong info for Nitrates until you are at 0 Nitiies. Just check Ammonia and Nitrites only during the cycle.
Another issue is no sand, the cycle will take forever without the sand. Crazy I know :)
Yeah, that's true for sure!
Also very true!
👍
:-)
hight magnesium is often couse by solt you use to mix your water, some reef salts have level up macroelements and you dont have many organism that use the magnesium in your clown tank, i Found that my nems doing better in lower magnesium betwen 1220-1360, if its comes to algae in my opinion nothink beats Vibrant,
Yeah, I've heard good things about Vibrant, but it just costs so much more than Razor, and I've had razor work great for me. I've never heard that about nems liking lower magnesium. I'm going to have to do some research. Thanks for commenting!
In my experience Vibrant works great on one thing, then brings out another type of algae. I have been battling Dinos. I saw an old article that suggested raising the tank temp to at least 80°F will slowly kill it off. I did go gradually up from 75-76 and it is def. working. (Throwing in 2 dozen Astrea's hasn't hurt either.
Just a suggestion. Just watch that your PH doesn't take a sudden nosedive. I think I'm done going the chemical route. More trouble than it's worth in the end.
Plus nothings worse than trying to get your skimmer just right again after being shut off for 3 days!!!
a cup seems excessive.....
Does it? I have no idea! I just followed the recommended dosage on the bag!
All you had to do add the micro bacteria 7 add 10 ml a day and in a few days your be at 0.10 nitrate. No pellet food just frozen for your be fine. Better fixing the issue. Than creating more problems. Keep up your RO /DI media so silicate not introduced which cause algae
True, but there is not much place for the microbacter to colonize in the frag tank. No live rock and a small amount of ceramic media.
I would personally recommend not using tap water to rinse anything especially if you do it consistently.
Excatyl ro water or distilled water always when it includes all fish things lol
Not a bad idea. I should probably just have a bucket with RODI water always ready. I've just always rinsed with tap water. Do you think i could be adding something bad into the systems?
@@MyFirstFishTank it starts to accumulate after a while , tds metals and medication people dump and flush out in there toilets get into our tap water , the basic filters water treatment do doesn't get %100 of the stuff out
That style of bio pellet reactor is awful. You are better off modding a TLF Phosban or getting one like a reef octo. Basically, you want to push the water down the tube and up through the pellets. There is a mod on R2R for the style of canister you have as well. Bio pellets will lower po4 faster than no3, keep an eye on them.
But wait, it's basically the same thing. Except the water flows down the outside to the bottom and then up. I don't understand how this is so bad for biopellets. Explain please.
Iodine is critical.
yeah just learned that!
@@MyFirstFishTank i guess this will also be the reason why you had problems with the Anemones. Low iodine and high lights is a bad combination and will cause exactly these issues.
So i also believe that your iodine dosing is the reason why some of your Anemones are getting better. You should correct the value fast.
Yeah, I'm on that for sure! Daily iodine dosing right now, using a test kit, and stopped running carbon. I'm hoping it keeps getting better! I'm telling you, I've learned so much from having a RUclips channel from people like you!
The metals are not good you can run poly filter to get rid of the, icp always come back with low iodine for everyone lol check the reef to reef forum icp iodine 😂
That's hilarious. You know, I haven't used a poly filter for a while. Not a bad idea to pick one up! Thanks!
@@MyFirstFishTank i its old skool WWC use it and alot reefers run it i have it as my final mech filter to my return pump i change it out about once a week depending on how it looks.
Your freaking crazy adding your clowns in the new system so early , its called patience, if you haven't learned that in "all the years" you've been in the hobby then you shouldn't be in it at all , its called building a strong foundation before adding anything at all , you won't see the problem now but futher along the line and history of the tank you will start seeing the problems, I've watched alot of your videos thoe you make some good points ,you still have alot to learn and stop being so dependent on all these fancy gadgets, your basically just putting training wheels on your tanks instead of addressing the real issues
did you see this video from Feb. 9th? Does it change your opinion? ruclips.net/video/yo88WtIbC_w/видео.html
@@MyFirstFishTank im not sure but I will re watch it on my lunch break, i wasn't trying to sound like a dick in the past by the way lol idk I just take it way to serious sometimes, sorry , but beautiful fish by the way
time to watch some sponsored bad decisions
So not a fan of my choices eh? All of them?
@@MyFirstFishTank i think the results speak for themselves ! very nice from your partr to experiment like this nad have the courage to show it. still ....