Hey Rob, I now own this knife and I have to say that it hasn't left my pocket. It's my first thumb stud/ riding on phosphor-bronze washers knife and now I finally get your advocacy for this deployment system. There's something about that 'hydraulic' feel...it kind of feels like the knife adds a heft of quality to its super light weight as you're deploying it. The knife is a bear to sharpen, no doubt, but having finally got a mirror polished edge (Wicked Edge - with hours spent with the 800, then 1000 grit, then coarse and fine ceramics, then strops down to 0.5 micron) - I find the best, maintenance, strop/ touch up is done on the rim of a drinking glass, or the edge of a car window. After three months of heavy use - it still cuts phonebook paper - à la an ApostleP edge.
Hey Rob! thanks for your expert opinion on this knife. I was gonna buy it but thanks to you, I realized S90V is not the steel I'm looking for in an EDC. Take care, Irène.
I’ve got one and mines got the Jimmy choil upgrade, plus got the jimping Bob bearing kit fitted , now the blade opens faster than a whores legs, I’ve had it 2 years and have cut over 3000 sheets of very thin magazine papers with it , great knife.
Another great video from the King of Sharp :) I needed some Rob footage. I hit the refresh button too many times a day looking to see if my favorite people have gave me more to ponder and learn from. Thanks brother Rob for all your hard work my friend. God bless
I just exchanged mine from an online seller due to a mis-aligned pocket clip (it should be centered at the high point of the handle contour) and the new one has a blade that is over 1/8" shorter than my 940. Good work Benchmade.
Enjoyed the video been useing some shapening tips from you and a few others and getting some nice results.Keep this videos comeing as i really like watching and all have a very blessed day Randy.
I really wish they used titanium stand-offs. That aluminum shade of anodizing on this class of knife just holds me back. Also agree that CTS 204P or even M390 would have been more of a upgrade.
I've heard that a lot of guys prefer the 940 series because they are easy to keister. Not sure if it's better to go tip-up or tip-down. I'll leave that to the experts :)
Just discovered your channel, subscribed and love it. I just bought the 940 and want to use my wicked edge to put my own edge on it. What degree are you sharpening it at, and do you also put a micro bevel on your blades. I appreciate your guidance.
Thank you 940 Guy ;) Glad to see your results so I dont spend a week of frustration trying to get a mirror polish. I do love mine but it makes me want to get a 940 even more.
I think you could start a new series called knife steel 101, based off of this video. I really haven't seen anyone else do a series like this, and I believe you'd be one of the perfect fits for this kind of series, given you being a sharpener/user of these wonderful things we love to collect. Just a thought, great video.
That's very flattering, William, and I will do that one of these days. But I have to tell you, it's a daunting subject. There are a few guys in the RUclips community, and knife community in general, who have vastly more knowledge in this area than I do. If you haven't checked him out, you should check out Cliff Stamp on RUclips.
Hi Rob, thanks for the video-you're spot on about Benchmade grinds, they do leave a lot to be desired (and i love my BM's), especially where the upsweep/ricasso/cutting edge area meet.yes, not all steels will take a good mirror finish, i think for a decent edge/mirror finish, D2 wants some beating. keep up the good work buddy..........
Hey Rob, Good video! I know it been half a decade but do you remember the angle that you sharpened the S90V steel at? Or is there a better angle that you have found for edc?
Received mine today, sadly its going back. Idk who messed up but my s90v blade knife came with a D2 blade on it. Great looking knife though, just wish it was what I ordered.
It is a beast. After working on these three, I have much more respect for young John Davis (jdavis882 / Davis Blade Works). He made his first knives, small neckers, out of this stuff. Talk about diving into the thick of it!
im not a steel snob by any means. having owned pretty much every kind out there i still like 154 and s30. if this knife had either id still pay the price
went today to get some hoppe's gun oil after watching your video on lubs. the shop had a 940-1 first production #274 or 750 for 211.00 whats a guy going to do ? this one seems perfect centering and the heel of the blade. My stone wash seem a little darker than the one on the video but might just bee the lighting . guess i getting to be one sick puppy
I unscrewed one side of so I could slip a carabiner over the back spacer to attach a lanyard. Worked like a treat. Problem : I used Loctite to hold them suckers in tight and a smear of it dropped onto the blade. How can I remove the smudges of Locktite? I've tried soap and water to no avail. Got any remedies? Please. Nail Polish remover or a VERY grinding paste?
Ya s90v can be very hard to sharpen. I just try to keep it at the same angle as what it came at. I would not profile s90v. You have to push to hard and it's very hard to get those deep scratched out from the lower grit stones. I went through my stones in my s110v Manix I think 3 or 4 times just to get a really nice mirror polished edge. I have the shapton stones for my epa. And there wonderful. Was wondering how you were likeing the chosera stones. And what do you use to polish the washers? Your finest grit stone? I'm getting my 940 1 some time this week. Very excited. Thanks Rob God bless.
I do like the Chosera stones, especially on the mid-range steels like S35VN, although they seem a bit soft for this stuff. I ended up with the standard aluminum oxide stones, which glazed and loaded up more than the Chosera stones, but seemed not to wear as much. For washers, I use 1000 grit sandpaper on glass. They don't need a robust abrasive as much as they need ultra-flatness, and unless I've just flattened the stones, they aren't flat enough for this job. Then I finish with a few strokes on the strop. Enjoy that -1 Josh!
Apostle p. How long are you talking about that s90 loses it’s fine edge? Are you talking a few rounds of cardboard or the first few cuts? I’ve been carrying a manix 2 in s90v and I’m having a hard time figuring out exactly what it wants as far as edge finish.
hello. thank you for your videos. i have a 940-1 that seems loose and even has some play in the blade in all positions. if i tighten the torx bolt, then the play goes away, but the bolt loosens again after a few openings/closings. i think i had heard you (or someone else?) mention a drop of locktite (or something similar) in the bolt-hole would this be okay? i don't want to ruin the 940-1 thank you
mike You heard correctly Mike. Use the blue variety of Loctite. Clean the male screw and female cup threads with alcohol, brake cleaner or acetone, nothing oil based. Then just apply one drop to the male thread, insert the screw, adjust pivot and let the knife sit overnight for the Loctite to set up. It will hold the pivot adjustment positively but still be able to be broken loose without damaging the screw head or the tool.
What grit stones did you go through on your Edge Pro? Did you have to clean your stones alot during the sharpening? I have the same 940-1 and EP.. Have you ever sharpened M4 and M390?
Jonathan Kelly I use 120, 220, 400, 600 and 1000 grit stones, and 2000 grit polishing tapes on super steels. On steels which are easier to sharpen and take a better polish, I omit the 600 grit step to save time. Here's a key to EP stones I've never put in a video: you have to remove the "skin" from the stones when they're new if you want them to cut and not load up. Just do a normal leveling process, but just enough to remove most of the ink stamp, and you're ready to go. If your sharpenng process gets too fast, uses too much pressure, or doesn't use enough water (with a bit of dish soap), you'll tend to load up the stones and they won't cut. If you're getting it right, you shouldn't have to do anything to clean the stones between levelings. Hope that helps.
Beautiful blade! I love my 940, I noticed on that one it doesn't have the same pocket clip the standard model does. Is it factory for that blade or was it changed out? I love the deep carry that has and hate the painted one that comes standard.
Kind of unrelated, but how big of a learning curve do you think there is when it comes to knife sharpening, especially when it comes to the Edge Pro Apex?
Dayle G Their overall consistency in blade grinds and sharpening has improved. I still wish they had used a different steel in the flagship 940, but it is what it is. I don’t own one, if that helps...
Wail sir, I am 15 and the 940-1 is going to be my first high end knife I purchase, I've saved up for over 2 months, do you think I am making the wright choice?
Cameron Richardson if you really want a 940 id say buy the standard one if you learn to love upgrade if not just sell or stick to that one no point of going all out on a 940-1(that i have and love btw) if you dont know if you are going to love the 940 overall as a knife
Aucksim What a great question! For TAKING a razor sharp edge, 1095 is certainly near the top, and it's easy to bring back to razor sharpness. But for holding a razor sharp edge, I'd probably choose another steel capable of superior sharpness but has better edge retention -- something like D2 or 154CM. ZDP189 takes a very keen edge and holds it for a very long time, but it's harder to get to that level of sharpness than those two.
andrew l. I appreciate the question, but trust me when I say that most factory edges are a long way from truly sharp. Most are what I would call vaguely sharp.
Hi there P , I got the 940 but samehow I can’t seams to have that knife smooth without having tremendous blade play, any advise that you be able to help me with?
If you're handy, you can disassemble the knife and sand & polish the washers. There might just be a burr affecting that. Also, if you have a coated blade, that might be the problem, and it's generally a bit hard to cure if that's the case.
reason i ask is because I have a buker bushcraft and the handle is poorly finish I would love to have somewhere like ray meats handle configuration, if that is the right word! also it has a secondary bevel on it witch I prefer not to have! Anyhow I seen your videos and i think your work is done to perfection there for I was wondering if you do that kind of work? PS:thank you for responding so quickly.
Can someone explain to a novice why the serrated version is frowned upon by knife afictionados? It seems like the serrated portion would come in handy. Am I wrong? Thanks!
+David Shaw Serrations do more ripping than actual slicing, so for fine work they're pretty much useless. Personally, if you're doing jobs on brush or other similar outdoorswork or maybe cutting particularly tough beef, they're somewhat useful, but for other, normal day-to-day tasks, they're really a waste of time . They're also a pain to maintain and keep sharp.
A lot of people (like me) think they're ugly. Generally they are less useful despite the initial impression of utility and just make the knife less valuable as a long term user tool
It's a personal opinion thing and what you use your knife for . Some folks plain just don't like them. Me, I won't EDC a knife that isn't partially serrated. There's been too many times in my life where the serration was absolutely crucial. But again, it comes down to what you use your knife for. If you like serrated or feel it would be useful, don't let internet opinions sway you from getting one
GhostTech1 - agreed. And every Benchmade that I own is of the partially serrated version. I tend to cut lots of zip-ties & twine at work so the serrations work well for that task. I also own several Fully-serrated Spydercos, which come in handy for stripping wire in addition to the other tasks......
Hey ApostleP, I'm viewing this for the first time and not hearing you speak at all in the video. I'm really interested in what stones and grits you're using to sharpen the S90V steel on the 940-1. I have an Edge Pro Apex... Any tips?
I always thought s90 was better in every way but you say it’s worse then s30 and the other day I finally found me a knife that has s90v and I got it which is this one in the video I hope I didn’t make a bad discussion.
You fielded a question on what grits you use on your EdgePro to achieve your edges. Are you using diamond stones to cut the carbides, or something else?
I ask because the diamond stones have the hardness necessary to cut into the carbides. Seems like that would take care of the edge issue you raised -- not being able to maintain the razor sharpness would bug me, too.
I should qualify the "edge quality" issue of S90V compared to other steels, I suppose. While it doesn't take the keen edge of 1095, D2, ZDP, or even S30V, especially using silicon and oxide stones, it still gets very sharp. Also, I actually prefer NOT getting into the carbides at the apex of the edge, because I think it results in a more wear-resistant working edge. When you use diamond sharpening media, you're left with extremely thin, brittle carbide points at the edge, which makes the edge go away much more quickly than leaving them sort of naturally chunky. The strength in performance of S90V isn't ultimate sharpness, but longevity of working sharpness... if that makes any sense. I just don't generally prefer that characteristic. Frankly, I'd rather use AUS8 and keep it razor sharp with 2-minute touch ups. But to each his own.
Huh! I hadn't thought of it that way. I appreciate you taking the time to detail as much. On a different subject, I may have a few knives to send your way! Take care.
Great job Rob! Especially with that pesky plunge grinds, I just can't stand these, even in my cheap kitchen knives, that it is just bad manufacturing! And I think I do like the old green ones better. That being said, I would be hard pressed to justify the price for any of them, my Holy Grail knife would be one of Murray Carter's neckers- hand made from start to finish, as they all are.
So if I wanted a knife to beat on--even using it to deburr aluminum workpieces that I deal with as a machinist--and I get it sharpened maybe once a year, would this be ideal?
I hear S90V can occasionally be chippy, though I don't know which stresses are the cause. Aluminum's certainly not a hard metal but it's probably still hard enough to chip a blade that's primarily for EDC.
I don’t really agree about the polishing at all. I will say it does take a little more care at certain stages of the process than some other steels, but the result is a very high polish finish, based on my experience with the CF Proper.
Are there knock off versions roaming around of the 940-1? I know there are for the regular 940. Reason is on the Internet some guy is always selling a 940 Dashone and then when he sells it a few weeks later he’ll post another. Just seems kind of fishy to me but I was interested in buying one but I don’t want to get ripped off
Lasurge1982 I would stick with trusted sellers for something like that. They usually sell in my Thursday night sales between $210 and $225 in near mint to new condition. I have them often.
Is normal for that knife to arrive DULL!?? I just received it today and it literally does not even shave my arm hairs, wont cut through paper or anything, it's crazy.
It will be disappointing when you get it back as well, unless someone takes special care in the "LifeSharp" department at Benchmade, which I lovingly refer to as "LifeDull." Sharpening is not Benchmade's strong suit, but who am I to complain. I make a pretty good living sharpening brand new Benchmades ;)
+TheApostleP I personally have sent my knives to be sharpened through Benchmades Life Sharp program, and I never had any issues where the blade came dull. In fact, this is the first time hearing a complaint over the returned blades from Life Sharp process. Don't get me wrong... I am not trying to debunk your past experience with their service. I just found it interesting is all.
Boy am I glad I purchased the 940 original, pretty upset the pocket clip is black and not silver like it used to be in the older days but anyhow I unscrewed it, but hearing you talk about s30v being better to work on is a relief.
@@TheApostleP Thanks for the heads up, yeah I would have but being in Australia would make it more difficult, I just sanded the black clip down with a few sandpapers, not the easiest job very stubborn black paint but looks really nice now with subtle black lettering, can actually see "BENCHMADE" now on the clip.
Isn’t ZDP-189 a Japanese steel? Kind of precludes it from a “made in USA” knife if so. I agree on S90V, would have way rather seen S35VN and would have paid the same price for it.
ApostleP - You're clearly a good Christian man with an encyclopedic knowledge of blade steels and their make-up. You are also much sought after as an expert in sharpening and mild modification of all manner of blades. May I ask - where did you get all this expertise and experience from? Thanks for all your educational and entertaining posts - God be with you. :)
I dont really buy into the whole super steel. ive been chasing these exotic steels only to be very underwhelmed. they all lose that paper cutting hair popping edge by the end of the work day.
uhh.. wrong. i have many different super steels, and even on a knife wiithout one, my vg-10 endura, still pops hairs after many days of work. so... lol?
Matt Laban Right you are Matt. You can send that baby in to Benchmade as often as you want, and they'll make it just as dull as it was when it was new. We call it their "Lifedull" program 😉
I'm tired OH hearing how hard it is to sharpen this knife how it takes long time but not a one review tells how long it actually takes to sharpen this knife.. is it 1hr 2hrs 30 min .. wtf is it mean it takes long time tell me how much time it takes I to sharpen this tool from start to finish don't tell me it's hard and takes long time.. for people that don't know much about steel it sounds intimidating ... tell me how much it's gonna cost me to get the edge back and how long it takes u to sharpen it..don't beat around the bush like every one else does gives me feel u not honest business man..
![Megan Thee Stallion - Roc Steady (feat. Flo Milli) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HozPPyqW0dY/mqdefault.jpg)
Sweet. Thanks for doing this follow-up video and the previous one with your observations on this new edition of the 940-1.
Hey Rob,
I now own this knife and I have to say that it hasn't left my pocket. It's my first thumb stud/ riding on phosphor-bronze washers knife and now I finally get your advocacy for this deployment system. There's something about that 'hydraulic' feel...it kind of feels like the knife adds a heft of quality to its super light weight as you're deploying it.
The knife is a bear to sharpen, no doubt, but having finally got a mirror polished edge (Wicked Edge - with hours spent with the 800, then 1000 grit, then coarse and fine ceramics, then strops down to 0.5 micron) - I find the best, maintenance, strop/ touch up is done on the rim of a drinking glass, or the edge of a car window. After three months of heavy use - it still cuts phonebook paper - à la an ApostleP edge.
Hey Rob! thanks for your expert opinion on this knife. I was gonna buy it but thanks to you, I realized S90V is not the steel I'm looking for in an EDC.
Take care, Irène.
I’ve got one and mines got the Jimmy choil upgrade, plus got the jimping Bob bearing kit fitted , now the blade opens faster than a whores legs, I’ve had it 2 years and have cut over 3000 sheets of very thin magazine papers with it , great knife.
Another great video from the King of Sharp :) I needed some Rob footage. I hit the refresh button too many times a day looking to see if my favorite people have gave me more to ponder and learn from. Thanks brother Rob for all your hard work my friend. God bless
I'm not sure I deserve that title, Ricky, but thanks all the same :). God bless you as well, brother!
Even when you critique a knife it sounds like a complement : )
Bravo!
Flaws notwithstanding, I still want one :)
i learn so much from this channel, thank you Obi-Wan
You do good work my friend. Such a handsome knife. Enjoyed this 2-part video.
You say the razor edge goes away quickly, but why would it go away quicker than say s30v and how much quicker?
tapping with plastic mallent on frozen deer leg bones would give the most realistic test. love your eff0rts nin house &woods
I just exchanged mine from an online seller due to a mis-aligned pocket clip (it should be centered at the high point of the handle contour) and the new one has a blade that is over 1/8" shorter than my 940.
Good work Benchmade.
your comments on sharpening are really helpful. dennis strickland
Enjoyed the video been useing some shapening tips from you and a few others and getting some nice results.Keep this videos comeing as i really like watching and all have a very blessed day Randy.
Glad to be of service, Randy. You do the same, brother!
It's good looking but I'll stay with my 940 Green scales and S30V. Love that knife.
You did a great job putting an edge on that.
I really wish they used titanium stand-offs. That aluminum shade of anodizing on this class of knife just holds me back. Also agree that CTS 204P or even M390 would have been more of a upgrade.
I've heard that a lot of guys prefer the 940 series because they are easy to keister.
Not sure if it's better to go tip-up or tip-down. I'll leave that to the experts :)
Tip up
GUNSnDOZES that's what I figured but I wasn't sure about retention . Thanks
CuttnStuff Haaa!
If you can handle an Adamas 375 the 940 should give no problems....
or maybe go for an ASSisted one....
I think the Adamas should be for the more.. um -how you say - "experienced" ?
Just discovered your channel, subscribed and love it. I just bought the 940 and want to use my wicked edge to put my own edge on it. What degree are you sharpening it at, and do you also put a micro bevel on your blades. I appreciate your guidance.
Thank you 940 Guy ;) Glad to see your results so I dont spend a week of frustration trying to get a mirror polish.
I do love mine but it makes me want to get a 940 even more.
I think you could start a new series called knife steel 101, based off of this video. I really haven't seen anyone else do a series like this, and I believe you'd be one of the perfect fits for this kind of series, given you being a sharpener/user of these wonderful things we love to collect. Just a thought, great video.
That's very flattering, William, and I will do that one of these days. But I have to tell you, it's a daunting subject. There are a few guys in the RUclips community, and knife community in general, who have vastly more knowledge in this area than I do. If you haven't checked him out, you should check out Cliff Stamp on RUclips.
Thank you, I will check his channel out.
Hi Rob, thanks for the video-you're spot on about Benchmade grinds, they do leave a lot to be desired (and i love my BM's), especially where the upsweep/ricasso/cutting edge area meet.yes, not all steels will take a good mirror finish, i think for a decent edge/mirror finish, D2 wants some beating. keep up the good work buddy..........
Hey Rob, Good video! I know it been half a decade but do you remember the angle that you sharpened the S90V steel at? Or is there a better angle that you have found for edc?
I have a 940-1 and would like it to get the ApostleP treatment. How do I get in touch with you?
Me too how do i get your services?
About 1-2 minutes into every video, there's a video pop up. Watch it. :)
Received mine today, sadly its going back. Idk who messed up but my s90v blade knife came with a D2 blade on it.
Great looking knife though, just wish it was what I ordered.
If you do a 20° angle on a guarded sharpening system you think that would be sufficient?
S90v sounds like a beast! I've yet to try it.
It is a beast. After working on these three, I have much more respect for young John Davis (jdavis882 / Davis Blade Works). He made his first knives, small neckers, out of this stuff. Talk about diving into the thick of it!
What is the going price for sharpening S90V. Maybe I should get the normal 940 instead and custom it with carbon fiber scales. Good idea?
I really enjoy your videos. Lots of knowledge from trail and error ( nothing wrong with that)
Ladies and gentleman, at 07:58 we have a textbook example of the pot calling the kettle black... thank you very much!!!
So you caught that then? :)
TheApostleP Hard to miss! ;-)
im not a steel snob by any means. having owned pretty much every kind out there i still like 154 and s30. if this knife had either id still pay the price
update....i paid the price :)
went today to get some hoppe's gun oil after watching your video on lubs. the shop had a 940-1 first production #274 or 750 for 211.00 whats a guy going to do ? this one seems perfect centering and the heel of the blade. My stone wash seem a little darker than the one on the video but might just bee the lighting . guess i getting to be one sick puppy
I unscrewed one side of so I could slip a carabiner over the back spacer to attach a lanyard. Worked like a treat.
Problem : I used Loctite to hold them suckers in tight and a smear of it dropped onto the blade. How can I remove the smudges of Locktite? I've tried soap and water to no avail. Got any remedies? Please. Nail Polish remover or a VERY grinding paste?
Try a small blowtorch to burn it off. Just don't heat the metal too much.
Hi. Between the Benchmade 940-1 with S90V and the new Spyderco Mannix 2 Maxamet steel, which one would you recommend?
Ya s90v can be very hard to sharpen. I just try to keep it at the same angle as what it came at. I would not profile s90v. You have to push to hard and it's very hard to get those deep scratched out from the lower grit stones. I went through my stones in my s110v Manix I think 3 or 4 times just to get a really nice mirror polished edge. I have the shapton stones for my epa. And there wonderful. Was wondering how you were likeing the chosera stones. And what do you use to polish the washers? Your finest grit stone? I'm getting my 940 1 some time this week. Very excited. Thanks Rob God bless.
I do like the Chosera stones, especially on the mid-range steels like S35VN, although they seem a bit soft for this stuff. I ended up with the standard aluminum oxide stones, which glazed and loaded up more than the Chosera stones, but seemed not to wear as much. For washers, I use 1000 grit sandpaper on glass. They don't need a robust abrasive as much as they need ultra-flatness, and unless I've just flattened the stones, they aren't flat enough for this job. Then I finish with a few strokes on the strop. Enjoy that -1 Josh!
Apostle p. How long are you talking about that s90 loses it’s fine edge? Are you talking a few rounds of cardboard or the first few cuts? I’ve been carrying a manix 2 in s90v and I’m having a hard time figuring out exactly what it wants as far as edge finish.
That's why ilike 154 cm, when it gets dull I can get it sharp in 15 mins. I don't polish just go up to med grit then strop.
hello. thank you for your videos. i have a 940-1 that seems loose and even has some play in the blade in all positions. if i tighten the torx bolt, then the play goes away, but the bolt loosens again after a few openings/closings. i think i had heard you (or someone else?) mention a drop of locktite (or something similar) in the bolt-hole
would this be okay? i don't want to ruin the 940-1
thank you
mike You heard correctly Mike. Use the blue variety of Loctite. Clean the male screw and female cup threads with alcohol, brake cleaner or acetone, nothing oil based. Then just apply one drop to the male thread, insert the screw, adjust pivot and let the knife sit overnight for the Loctite to set up. It will hold the pivot adjustment positively but still be able to be broken loose without damaging the screw head or the tool.
What grit stones did you go through on your Edge Pro? Did you have to clean your stones alot during the sharpening? I have the same 940-1 and EP.. Have you ever sharpened M4 and M390?
Jonathan Kelly I use 120, 220, 400, 600 and 1000 grit stones, and 2000 grit polishing tapes on super steels. On steels which are easier to sharpen and take a better polish, I omit the 600 grit step to save time. Here's a key to EP stones I've never put in a video: you have to remove the "skin" from the stones when they're new if you want them to cut and not load up. Just do a normal leveling process, but just enough to remove most of the ink stamp, and you're ready to go. If your sharpenng process gets too fast, uses too much pressure, or doesn't use enough water (with a bit of dish soap), you'll tend to load up the stones and they won't cut. If you're getting it right, you shouldn't have to do anything to clean the stones between levelings. Hope that helps.
Beautiful blade! I love my 940, I noticed on that one it doesn't have the same pocket clip the standard model does. Is it factory for that blade or was it changed out? I love the deep carry that has and hate the painted one that comes standard.
That one was changed by the owner, but it is a factory BM clip. All you have to do is call and they'll send you one.
Beautiful knife.......👍
I may be getting a brand new bench me 940-1 Osborne for $217
what method do you use to sharpen your knifes thanks
What would you suggest for a benchmade knife that holds a razor edge the longest?
Kind of unrelated, but how big of a learning curve do you think there is when it comes to knife sharpening, especially when it comes to the Edge Pro Apex?
TheApostleP do you have any experience with sharping cpm-m4 like on the benchmade contego 810?
Where is the information on how to send you a knife to sharpen? I'm having a hard time sharpening s90v with a ken onion.
Larkhon Nohkral it’s all in the description of my “Rates and Services” video. It’s linked in the description of most of my more recent vids.
Hey Rob has your opinion changed on this knife since your review? Has benchmade addressed any of the issues you brought to light?
Dayle G Their overall consistency in blade grinds and sharpening has improved. I still wish they had used a different steel in the flagship 940, but it is what it is. I don’t own one, if that helps...
@@TheApostleP Thanks I think I'll stick with the 940-1501 based on your reviews. Your opinions are highly valuable
Wail sir, I am 15 and the 940-1 is going to be my first high end knife I purchase, I've saved up for over 2 months, do you think I am making the wright choice?
Cameron Richardson if you really want a 940 id say buy the standard one if you learn to love upgrade if not just sell or stick to that one no point of going all out on a 940-1(that i have and love btw) if you dont know if you are going to love the 940 overall as a knife
That knife appears to be rocking a deep carry pocket clip, which I don't think comes stock. What pocket clip is that?
+Steven Stein call benchmade tell them you want a deep pocket clip for the Osborne. they'll send it for free.
Could you technically take a 940 blade and put it on a 940-1?
Yep
What's the difference with the newer M390 deal?
What would be your favorite steel for maintaining razor sharpness? High Carbon 1095?
Aucksim What a great question! For TAKING a razor sharp edge, 1095 is certainly near the top, and it's easy to bring back to razor sharpness. But for holding a razor sharp edge, I'd probably choose another steel capable of superior sharpness but has better edge retention -- something like D2 or 154CM. ZDP189 takes a very keen edge and holds it for a very long time, but it's harder to get to that level of sharpness than those two.
TheApostleP Thank you for the detailed response. I love "living life on the edge" haha. God bless you, sir!
You too, buddy!
What about cpm v110s, m390 or m690? Do you like any of those steel?
S110V is quite similar to S90V -- not really a fan. But M390 and M690 are both excellent performers and great to work with in my experience.
So what steel would you recommend that will hold a razor sharp edge for a long time? If there is one.
135th Darksword m390
I love how you end your videos :)
i could be wrong but they're already razor sharp, how much better can you make it?
andrew l. I appreciate the question, but trust me when I say that most factory edges are a long way from truly sharp. Most are what I would call vaguely sharp.
Hi there P , I got the 940 but samehow I can’t seams to have that knife smooth without having tremendous blade play, any advise that you be able to help me with?
If you're handy, you can disassemble the knife and sand & polish the washers. There might just be a burr affecting that. Also, if you have a coated blade, that might be the problem, and it's generally a bit hard to cure if that's the case.
thank you brother, I think i got a bit of both, another question, do you only work with knives or anything with a cutting edge ?
Pretty much only knives at this point. I've sharpened a couple of small hatchets, but it's kind of cost-prohibitive given the shipping.
reason i ask is because I have a buker bushcraft and the handle is poorly finish I would love to have somewhere like ray meats handle configuration, if that is the right word! also it has a secondary bevel on it witch I prefer not to have! Anyhow I seen your videos and i think your work is done to perfection there for I was wondering if you do that kind of work? PS:thank you for responding so quickly.
No problem, Matos. I think that job might be a bit beyond my skill set, however...
Can someone explain to a novice why the serrated version is frowned upon by knife afictionados? It seems like the serrated portion would come in handy. Am I wrong? Thanks!
+David Shaw Serrations do more ripping than actual slicing, so for fine work they're pretty much useless. Personally, if you're doing jobs on brush or other similar outdoorswork or maybe cutting particularly tough beef, they're somewhat useful, but for other, normal day-to-day tasks, they're really a waste of time . They're also a pain to maintain and keep sharp.
A lot of people (like me) think they're ugly. Generally they are less useful despite the initial impression of utility and just make the knife less valuable as a long term user tool
It's a personal opinion thing and what you use your knife for . Some folks plain just don't like them.
Me, I won't EDC a knife that isn't partially serrated. There's been too many times in my life where the serration was absolutely crucial.
But again, it comes down to what you use your knife for. If you like serrated or feel it would be useful, don't let internet opinions sway you from getting one
GhostTech1 - agreed. And every Benchmade that I own is of the partially serrated version. I tend to cut lots of zip-ties & twine at work so the serrations work well for that task. I also own several Fully-serrated Spydercos, which come in handy for stripping wire in addition to the other tasks......
Hey ApostleP, I'm viewing this for the first time and not hearing you speak at all in the video.
I'm really interested in what stones and grits you're using to sharpen the S90V steel on the 940-1. I have an Edge Pro Apex... Any tips?
I'm having the same problem...
David Larsen Try again in a few hours. It should be fixed. Gotta love RUclips!
Thanks!
I always thought s90 was better in every way but you say it’s worse then s30 and the other day I finally found me a knife that has s90v and I got it which is this one in the video I hope I didn’t make a bad discussion.
You fielded a question on what grits you use on your EdgePro to achieve your edges. Are you using diamond stones to cut the carbides, or something else?
samuraiprose No diamonds here, but my 120 stone is silicon carbide. I'm not a lover of diamond stones, even with large carbide steels.
I ask because the diamond stones have the hardness necessary to cut into the carbides. Seems like that would take care of the edge issue you raised -- not being able to maintain the razor sharpness would bug me, too.
I should qualify the "edge quality" issue of S90V compared to other steels, I suppose. While it doesn't take the keen edge of 1095, D2, ZDP, or even S30V, especially using silicon and oxide stones, it still gets very sharp. Also, I actually prefer NOT getting into the carbides at the apex of the edge, because I think it results in a more wear-resistant working edge. When you use diamond sharpening media, you're left with extremely thin, brittle carbide points at the edge, which makes the edge go away much more quickly than leaving them sort of naturally chunky. The strength in performance of S90V isn't ultimate sharpness, but longevity of working sharpness... if that makes any sense. I just don't generally prefer that characteristic. Frankly, I'd rather use AUS8 and keep it razor sharp with 2-minute touch ups. But to each his own.
Huh! I hadn't thought of it that way. I appreciate you taking the time to detail as much. On a different subject, I may have a few knives to send your way! Take care.
Where do you get one of those pocket clips?
macdad315 Benchmade will send you any clip they make for free generally.
Great job Rob! Especially with that pesky plunge grinds, I just can't stand these, even in my cheap kitchen knives, that it is just bad manufacturing!
And I think I do like the old green ones better. That being said, I would be hard pressed to justify the price for any of them, my Holy Grail knife would be one of Murray Carter's neckers- hand made from start to finish, as they all are.
That's a worthy grail knife indeed... and you can be sure you wouldn't have to sharpen in right out of the box too!
If they ever make this knife in m390 I'm on it.
They make it out of 20cv basically the same thing
I would much rather have your Green scale version of this blade
Me too 😉
So if I wanted a knife to beat on--even using it to deburr aluminum workpieces that I deal with as a machinist--and I get it sharpened maybe once a year, would this be ideal?
I hear S90V can occasionally be chippy, though I don't know which stresses are the cause. Aluminum's certainly not a hard metal but it's probably still hard enough to chip a blade that's primarily for EDC.
I don’t really agree about the polishing at all. I will say it does take a little more care at certain stages of the process than some other steels, but the result is a very high polish finish, based on my experience with the CF Proper.
Are there knock off versions roaming around of the 940-1? I know there are for the regular 940. Reason is on the Internet some guy is always selling a 940 Dashone and then when he sells it a few weeks later he’ll post another. Just seems kind of fishy to me but I was interested in buying one but I don’t want to get ripped off
Lasurge1982 I would stick with trusted sellers for something like that. They usually sell in my Thursday night sales between $210 and $225 in near mint to new condition. I have them often.
Nice review. You recommend it?
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If you watched the review, he obviously doesn't recommend it, duh!!
I think he said he'd use it and enjoy it. Despite a couple of minor problems he observed. I bought one and I love it. Will get the -2 next.
Image BLOGGER yes the -2 is awesome get one you won't regret. Don't buy this one. Merry Christmas
Ajacks80 Got any tips on removing light smudges of Loctite from the blade? I should have had the blade extended when re-screwing the side back on. lol
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Try rubbing alcohol or a little gasoline. If that doesn't work try a little metal polish.
Finer blade crystals makes a finer knife
Is normal for that knife to arrive DULL!?? I just received it today and it literally does not even shave my arm hairs, wont cut through paper or anything, it's crazy.
+Carlos Guerrero Sadly... Yes, quite normal.
+TheApostleP Really? I literally just set up an RMA to exchange it like 15 minutes ago
It will be disappointing when you get it back as well, unless someone takes special care in the "LifeSharp" department at Benchmade, which I lovingly refer to as "LifeDull." Sharpening is not Benchmade's strong suit, but who am I to complain. I make a pretty good living sharpening brand new Benchmades ;)
+TheApostleP whats your process? What do you charge? Turnaround?
+TheApostleP
I personally have sent my knives to be sharpened through Benchmades Life Sharp program, and I never had any issues where the blade came dull. In fact, this is the first time hearing a complaint over the returned blades from Life Sharp process. Don't get me wrong... I am not trying to debunk your past experience with their service. I just found it interesting is all.
M4? M390? carp xhp? CPM110V?
Boy am I glad I purchased the 940 original, pretty upset the pocket clip is black and not silver like it used to be in the older days but anyhow I unscrewed it, but hearing you talk about s30v being better to work on is a relief.
TheEnvelope Benchmade will send you any clip you want. Just give them a call.
@@TheApostleP Thanks for the heads up, yeah I would have but being in Australia would make it more difficult, I just sanded the black clip down with a few sandpapers, not the easiest job very stubborn black paint but looks really nice now with subtle black lettering, can actually see "BENCHMADE" now on the clip.
can you sharpen my 940-1?
What's the difference between the s30v and s90v?
GUNSnSTUFF 60v
lmfao
60V and about 5% more vanadium carbides
Isn’t ZDP-189 a Japanese steel? Kind of precludes it from a “made in USA” knife if so.
I agree on S90V, would have way rather seen S35VN and would have paid the same price for it.
Thumbs up!
Thanks, my friend!
ApostleP - You're clearly a good Christian man with an encyclopedic knowledge of blade steels and their make-up. You are also much sought after as an expert in sharpening and mild modification of all manner of blades. May I ask - where did you get all this expertise and experience from? Thanks for all your educational and entertaining posts - God be with you. :)
Thanks, Paul. I appreciate the support, brother :)
I dont really buy into the whole super steel. ive been chasing these exotic steels only to be very underwhelmed. they all lose that paper cutting hair popping edge by the end of the work day.
WaterWhipin
Which steel?
uhh.. wrong. i have many different super steels, and even on a knife wiithout one, my vg-10 endura, still pops hairs after many days of work. so... lol?
Have you tried M4 or HAP 40?
@@Fluoride556 you don't cut as much daily as me or the op
although benchmade will sharpen my knife for free so it isn't a big deal if its a pain to sharpen.
Matt Laban Right you are Matt. You can send that baby in to Benchmade as often as you want, and they'll make it just as dull as it was when it was new. We call it their "Lifedull" program 😉
TheApostleP Are there any manufacturers that in your opinion come with a good factory edge?
Matt Laban No, because how else would he stay in buiseness
Matt Laban
Spyderco's come with a great edge!
I'm tired OH hearing how hard it is to sharpen this knife how it takes long time but not a one review tells how long it actually takes to sharpen this knife.. is it 1hr 2hrs 30 min .. wtf is it mean it takes long time tell me how much time it takes I to sharpen this tool from start to finish don't tell me it's hard and takes long time.. for people that don't know much about steel it sounds intimidating ... tell me how much it's gonna cost me to get the edge back and how long it takes u to sharpen it..don't beat around the bush like every one else does gives me feel u not honest business man..
What is the going price for sharpening S90V. Maybe I should get the normal 940 instead and custom it with carbon fiber scales. Good idea?