Subaru EJ-Series Clutch Fork Shaft Removal Steps
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- Опубликовано: 12 янв 2019
- This video is a tutorial on HOW TO REMOVE THE CLUTCH FORK SHAFT AND LOWER ENGINE MOUNT NUTS on any Subaru vehicle. I also walk-through my selection of the BEST TOOLS to use for this task!
This video is part of a "Build Series" (see "Playlists" tab for all videos) for my 1998 Rally Blue Pearl RSTi Coupe (Impreza 2.5RS swapped with a EJ205 turbo engine), which is 1 of only 720 sold in the USDM for 1998. This RSTi Build has come a long way and includes a full archive of videos documenting how to: (1) Pull a EJ-series turbo engine, (2) Replace the head gaskets, (3) Add key upgrades to increase long-term reliability, and (4) Restore the interior to OEM specifications.
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“You’re going to go down on the driver side” is a strong opener on a first date!!!
lol, nice! 😂🔥
Battery tie down rods work great to remove the clutch fork shaft, If you use the threaded end.
Yes! Thanks for mentioning that option - totally forgot to mention that one!!! Cheers! 🤙🤙
Good to know.gracias
Just broke the shift fork on my 2005 Forester, got home in 3rd. Subscribing because I can tell Imma be here once in a while. Video production feels inviting too
Is this the same procedure for removing the fork, does the fork just pull out through the top after removing the shaft?
Thanks so much Luke, straighforward on how to remove the fork shaft on a manual shift.
👊
That was a really helpful video was stuck on the clutch fork did not know it had a pin ,lol thanks bro for the tips👍
You know it! 😁
My friend, the attention to detail in this video is awesome. Amazing camera shots and proper angles, and very clear descriptions. Stumbled on this vid by chance but will definitely be checking out more of your stuff. Great work.
Thanks man! 😁
Found this video a day late and a dollar short!!! My son has a 2004 forester XT 5 speed, the heads were leaking so we decided to pull the engine. Bear in mind that we did the same thing to his 2002 outback with great success. By now i bet you know the story! i have never heard of a pull type clutch! We removed the bell housing bolts and started to separate the assembly. After four hours of trying, along with a stroke, heart attack and a brain bleed i was reduced to laying in the fetal position wondering why the system would not separate. We quit for the day and came back fresh in the morning. I unbolted the pressure plated (diaphragm) from the flywheel and the motor jumped right out. Found the clutch disc wore to the rivits, the pressure plate and flywheel surfaces heat scored and wavy along with a noisy pilot bearing. He has Purchased the ACT Prolite flywheel and a competition clutch stage 2 clutch kit , replaced the turbo cartridge because of excessive endplay and a Grimm speed down pipe. However it is now going to be -30 degrees so we will have to wait on the rebuild. All that said, what is your suggestion for reinstalling the clutch assembly and new throw out bearing? I know the tob gets installed in the transmission side and the clutch on the engine side, what bothers me is the snap ring type connection that allows the tob to disengage the clutch. Any suggestions or tips on what to avoid or do so it clicks back in and functions properly? Subscribed to your channel and Brett's in Australia.
Thanks for sharing the story and checking out the channel buddy! Glad to hear you guys figured it out - even if the hard way.
To reinstall the clutch pack and tob assembly, use that plastic clutch alignment too but when installing get it perfectly centered by actually measuring from the plastic tool surface to some radial point like the clutch fingers, to get it perfectly centered - this will help ensure that trans input shaft will go in nice an easy.
For the tob assembly, yes it installs on the trans side. Just clean everything, inspect the clutch fork for proper alignment and function. Then carefully install those little snap rings on tob to the fork tabs. Take you time and it should work out. Good luck buddy! Keep us posted on the progress if you can. Cheers! 👊
@@SubaruONLY Finally had enough time to finish my sons forester!! installed grimm speed up and down pipe, cobb tuner, ACT stage 2 clutch, light weight flywheel and mono lock system. unbelievable results in power!! great channel for the best Subaru information! thanks
Awesome! Stoked to hear!!! Thanks for watching and that car sounds legit!!!
Just got back from yanking and prying at the transmission. Hardly any information about this. I hope I didn't damage anything considering I used brute force. I feel so dumb now but I'm going to try again tomorrow and cross my fingers that this was the issue.
Learned a lot from your videos! Thanks for sharing!
🙏
@@SubaruONLY so I'm having this clutch noise issue everytime when I press the clutch paddle. I lubricated this shaft and the noise was gone but came back after I press the paddle for like 10 times. I pulled the shaft out, cleaned it and put new grease on, and the same thing happened again... Was it because I use the wrong type of grease? ( I used Valvoline multi-purpose lithium grease)
ruclips.net/video/aA7Pul5iY2U/видео.html
Great videos as always sir
Thanks brother!!!
Hi and thanks for these videos absolute legend u are. I’m up to the final stages of removing I’ve left one bolt in but I’m not sure If the gearbox cross member needs to be removed and where exactly is the best spot to support the box in order to get the correct angle. Thank u
Thanks!!! Cheers!!! 🍻
Do you know if a push clutch 5MT requires further action after bell housing bolts/nuts? (From an NA motor).
Thank you, very helpful and you did a killer job with this video. I will have this engine out in just another 20 minutes thanks to this video i appreciate it.
Sweet! 😁😁😁
2006 sti clutch replacement done with Ecedy stage1 kit resurface flywheel.issue1, issue 2 po448 and po448 pcm swap, issue3 boost problem decided to have a Subaru only repair shop do job. 1500 to 2000 dollars.
Thank you mr dude 👌
Thanks the the videos nice work
Hey Luke, I’ve got a ‘97 manual transmission with ej251 engine. Which clutch fork and throw out bearing do I need to use? My original fork and TOB barely reach the pressure plate. Will the wrx fork work? I don’t see a hole in the top of fork for clutch cable on the ‘06 fork. Any advice would be appreciated
What if for say my 97 legacy doesn’t have that plug there? Nor does my replacement engine and trans combo? Can I just pull the engine without removing clutch fork or shaft?
Yoooooo, thanks!
All these apply for an sti ? This video was really helpful thanks !
Yes same for an Sti
Hey is there a clutch fork shaft on a 2013 wrx? Or anything similar that needs to come out besides the bell housing bolts ? Thank you
I know this is an old video...if I need to replace the clutch fork when you remove the shaft can you pull it out the top and replace it that way?
Don’t forget about the washers that go along with the nut on the engine mount studs.
Good call for sure! Don’t forget those! Thanks man!
Is the spring on the clutch fork on all ejs?
I have a 2010 wrx and there is no cover plug behind the starter. Im confused... What next? Will i still be able to separate my motor without removing the shaft? Thanks. Great videos, very helpful and detailed!
Not all engines have them. Sounds like yours just didn’t come with it!!! Should be fine!!!
If it’s an automatic it won’t, this only applies to manual transmission and certain years, not all of them had this.
What is the tread size of the 6mm bolt ?
Hey there. I’m attempting to pull my transmission off of my engine. I removed the access plug to find that someone has been there before and snapped a bolt in the clutch fork shaft. I had to end up pulling the engine and transmission together, but now I don’t know what to do as they won’t split.
Hmmm. This is a tricky one. Gonna have to pull that bolt out one way or another. With the engine out, should be easier to get a drill bit in there and tap in a reverse thread extractor. Gotta get that bolt out to pull that shaft. Good luck!!! Let me know how it goes - cheers! 👍
Hey will you make videos installing it back saying the torque specs for all the specs or where can I get those specs at?
Yes. Will do for sure. Also, I recommend downloading the Factory Service Manual for your model - lots of places on web to download for free. Highly recommended.
whats up with the wrx compression is it burned exhaust valves broken ring lands or rings or migrating guides? is it because of the turbo extra load
It’s got blown head gaskets. Ring lands all look good. Valve guides also good. Heads in the machine shop now getting cleaned and resurfaced.
So glad I found this cause I was having issues trying to figure out what was stopping from frim pulling my engine i i believe that was it
Nice 👍
Same
Sweet!
I've done everything to get this out and no matter what I do it won't come out, any suggestions?
Is there a way to remove the clutch fork without having to remove the transfer or engine? Like does it come out of the opening up top?
Nope, the hole at the top is too small
a 10mm was too big for my cover bolt i have an 06 sti trans are you sure its the same brotha
I have a sub 2008 outback, can't get it into gear when engine is running. I changed the slave cylinder and brake hydraulic cyinder. Now it goes into gear, but rattles at the clutch fork. Any ideas??
Either your throw out bearing is toast, pilot bearing is completely disintegrated or you have a serious issue with your clutch and pressure plate. It sounds to me like your clutch isn’t disengaging at all if it won’t go into gear after pressing the clutch. You need to pull it apart and find out.
So if I needed to take out the transmission over al for whatever reason I’d have to remove this fork shaft ?
Yes, if you have it, you have to remove it to pull the trans out (by its self) or pull the engine (by its self).
So you do need more than just a 14mm spanner to remove a wrx engine? :)
Hahah. Not much more! 10mm, 12mm and 17mm for few spots, but that’s about it!
You didnt show removing the fork or reinstalling?
How do you do a push type clutch fork . Ej251.
The push-style clutch fork is actually much simpler in that it just lifts up off the input shaft - in other words, there’s no steel pin to remove first, just lift it up and off the lip and the engine can be removed freely.
Any idea why our bugeye makes a sound when pressing in the clutch after acceleration in 1th gear. It sounds like someone smashing with a hammer once somewhere around the clutch when you press it in. The faster you press it in, the harder it sounds. Only hearing it after 1th gear. Happened after changing the wrx 5 speed to a sti 6 speed and new oem clutch.
Did you install the correct Flywheel and clutch?
It was done by a local shop. The same flywheel was used.
Hmm. This is interesting. The fact that it’s only happening after 1st gear engages makes me think it may be something with the trans. Usually, if it’s something with the clutch and or flywheel, it will happen when engaging any gear. Either way, will have to split the engine from trans and pull one of them out to figure this out. Good luck buddy! 👍👍
Could it be an engine mount or transmission mount?
We have another isue that i thought would not be te same. When we take corners we here one ‘Plop’ sound also. Thought something to do with the suspension, but now my gf tells that it sometimes happens when shifting other gears to. Maybe it’s the same thing making a little different noise in different directions of movement.
The sound in 1ste gear is already half a year, the sound in corners started a few weeks ago. I will keep you updated on what was wrong when we find out ;)
Actually, yes a engine mount or trans mount will make a solid knock sound - AND they do wear out, so that’s totally a possibility. First gear is a lower gear and places more load on driveline comments, so if some wear item is giving way, yes you might only feel it when 1st gear engages. Great thinking man. Keep us posted on the diagnosis and fix! Good luck! 👍🤙
Must you pull out the clutch fork shaft to pull the engine out ? I’m keeping the transmission in.
Yes, in order to separate the engine from trans you have to either unbolt the pressure plate from the engine or remove the clutch fork as it’s holding the throw out bearing in place which is held on by several fingers of the pressure plate. Short answer- yes you want to remove the TOB fork…
anything different compared to a 2016 wax 2.0 turbo that you can think of if you ever taken one out?
Never pulled one. Cheers!
Hello! subie guy 😆
Does a 2010 WRX 5 speed have this?
Not sure, I think so.
Northern California? Man. The person that owned the subaru before me welded one of the damn bolts onto the engine mount and I can't get it off to save my life and I need to change my oil pan. If I drove to you. Could you help? It's killing me not being able to change the oil at all. It only has 230,000 on it. 😪😪
Is it mandatory to remove the clutch fork shaft in order to remove the engine?
Yes, you do actually. It locks into the clutch release hub and that engine won’t come out till that fork shaft is removed. Good luck!!! 🤙
Thanks
Is this step for all years and such?
I am getting ready to remove my engine from my 2007 Impreza 2.5i (EJ253 5-Speed)
@@SubaruONLY All years/engine?
These clutch pivot shafts are not all all Subaru models. You should verify but I believe these are only used on these models and year ranges:
- 2004-2014 STi
- 2002-2005 WRX
Here’s another way to verify - You can also look up the clutch fork for your model, the ones that use this pivot shaft look very different (due to the center hole for the shaft) than ones that don’t use it. Good luck - hope this helps!
If anyone is having trouble with this pin like I did while removing engine/transmission, turn the engine and remove the bolts from the flywheel
How can you remove the flywheel bolts if you can't separate the transmission from the engine without removing that pin? I've tried for two days to get this pin out and no success
Help anyone got any clever ideas how to get the clutch fork shaft cover plug off. We have soaked multiple time with WD40. and hit it with breaker bar. Run an Milwaukee 250 ftlbs impact wrench multi times like for 20 seconds at a time. Will not budge at all. Have no idea where to go now.
1/2” Allen head socket and huge 1/2” breaker bar?
@@SubaruONLY thanks man. We finally got it off. Purchased a 1" x 48" steel gas pipe and had cut a length of 10mm Allen. I first tried with a 10mm ring spanner and bent the spanner. So I put on a ratchet and a 10mm impact socket and after several pulls it broke loose. I have no idea why that was so tight. Some idiot monkey must have swung on it to tighten. Once broke loose I ran it out with my fingers. so the threads were in good shape. Thanks again.
Awesome!! Glad to hear it worked out buddy - sweet!!! 👍
Even though I’ve done this job, I still don’t quite see why it has to come out before you spilt the box.
It’s locks the throw out bearing assembly.
Just don't forget to reinstall that plug or you'll be needing a new transmission and clutch. Just bought one that had the shaft back out, not pretty
Hell yea - you see Taylor Ray’s swapped GC? He totally did this and cracked the trans housing, which required whole new trans. Good call out buddy!!! 👊
@@SubaruONLY yeah apparently it's a common mistake. I had to pry the clutch fork out of my pressure plate to get my motor out lol
Where in nor cal are you located? I’m in Lincoln. I just picked up a 02, and it had 2 transmissions in the trunk lol, car runs and someone swapped a new tranny in, but there’s no clutch fork installed. First subi do you have a insta? Would be a great help if I could ask you a question when I don’t know how to do something
Hey buddy. I’m in the East Bay Area. My insta is SubaruOnlyShow - cheers!
that plug was close going into the starter hole lol
True 👍
Should have watched this before I forced my thrust bearing. 🙄
andyracksthecams did the same thing. Fuckin pryed for hours
Thanks
👊