Thanks! I have never done floors before either, thanks to my buddy Dan they are done. After everything I've seen my opinion is if the floors are not completely gone and you have some solid metal to attach to, it isn't that hard to do. Good luck with yours. ~Pat
Thanks for the info on the results of using the porta power, mine are close, and i have a friend that has one, i think i will try to make them shut better.
I was amazed at how well it worked. Do some research on which way to tweak the cab. I have no idea, but my buddy Dan would close the door to see where it was rubbing and knew what needed to be moved. We moved it horizontally and diagonally. I guess his 30 years of experience makes things look easy. ~Pat
I have to do the same procedure to my '63 but I'm having trouble figuring out where to jack up the front of the cab. There is these pillars where also the cab mounts get welded to, but I'm worried that they might not take the weight. How did you guys do it?
Thanks for watching the video. If you go to the 9:05 minute mark in the video you can see a 2x4 that the firewall seam is resting on. Then the board is resting on the trans bell housing. We jacked up the cab about 5-7 inches, put the board in place then lowered the cab onto the 2x4. Hope that helps. ~Pat
Hello Ty, yes we welded the floors in with a mig welder. It does take some practice so you don't burn holes where you're welding. If you live near a Eastwood store they do offer beginner classes, or see if you can find a class or someone to teach you. It's not that hard but you should practice on something first. Best of luck, Pat
Hello Nick, thanks for watching and the comment. I went with a column from Demotor Performance. Here's the link, demotoring.com/products/hot-rod-chrome-tilt-manual-style-steering-column-28-gm-no-key I like the Ididit columns but this is 1/3 the price and my original budget was $3500-$5000 for this build.
Im at that same stage on my 63, whats the measurement between the cab and the mount on the chassis? Trying to figure how much I have to left the cab. Nice work BTW👍
Thanks DIY. I'm not sure what you're asking, but I'll try to explain what we did. We lifted the front of the cab about 3 inches. Then cut out the floors and body mounts out. We then clamped the new body mount to the cab and welded that in at the side of the cab. After that the floors were put in place and welded to the cab mounts and the remaining floor. I order new body mount rubber biscuits and we drop the cab down back in the stock location. In the end the cab sits at the stock position relative to the frame. I hope this helps explained the process. Feel free to email me or post any other questions. Thanks for watching...~Pat
Overhead welding is so much fun...not. It’s always a good feeling during a restoration when you get to the point that you’re not sweeping your truck up off the floor at the end of the day.
Good work there! I'm tackling mine in the morning. I'm dreading it because I've never done it before. Little by little.
Thanks! I have never done floors before either, thanks to my buddy Dan they are done. After everything I've seen my opinion is if the floors are not completely gone and you have some solid metal to attach to, it isn't that hard to do. Good luck with yours. ~Pat
There’s something oddly satisfying hearing the welder do its thing. Also, love how those doors sound too. She’s coming along. -Chris
Hey Chris, I wish the doors on our daily drivers closed as nice as the F100 does.
Good job...
Thanks
Thanks for the info on the results of using the porta power, mine are close, and i have a friend that has one, i think i will try to make them shut better.
I was amazed at how well it worked. Do some research on which way to tweak the cab. I have no idea, but my buddy Dan would close the door to see where it was rubbing and knew what needed to be moved. We moved it horizontally and diagonally. I guess his 30 years of experience makes things look easy. ~Pat
I have to do the same procedure to my '63 but I'm having trouble figuring out where to jack up the front of the cab. There is these pillars where also the cab mounts get welded to, but I'm worried that they might not take the weight. How did you guys do it?
Thanks for watching the video. If you go to the 9:05 minute mark in the video you can see a 2x4 that the firewall seam is resting on. Then the board is resting on the trans bell housing. We jacked up the cab about 5-7 inches, put the board in place then lowered the cab onto the 2x4. Hope that helps. ~Pat
@@pmr413 Thanks so much for your reply! I will try the same.
Just starting the same project. Did you lap weld the floor? Never welded before. Appreciate any pointers.
Hello Ty, yes we welded the floors in with a mig welder. It does take some practice so you don't burn holes where you're welding. If you live near a Eastwood store they do offer beginner classes, or see if you can find a class or someone to teach you. It's not that hard but you should practice on something first. Best of luck, Pat
Looks great! What steering column did you go with?
Hello Nick, thanks for watching and the comment. I went with a column from Demotor Performance. Here's the link, demotoring.com/products/hot-rod-chrome-tilt-manual-style-steering-column-28-gm-no-key I like the Ididit columns but this is 1/3 the price and my original budget was $3500-$5000 for this build.
Im at that same stage on my 63, whats the measurement between the cab and the mount on the chassis? Trying to figure how much I have to left the cab. Nice work BTW👍
Thanks DIY. I'm not sure what you're asking, but I'll try to explain what we did. We lifted the front of the cab about 3 inches. Then cut out the floors and body mounts out. We then clamped the new body mount to the cab and welded that in at the side of the cab. After that the floors were put in place and welded to the cab mounts and the remaining floor. I order new body mount rubber biscuits and we drop the cab down back in the stock location. In the end the cab sits at the stock position relative to the frame. I hope this helps explained the process. Feel free to email me or post any other questions. Thanks for watching...~Pat
What kind of automatic shifter is that like the video I'm working on a 61 ford unibody with same rust spots
Thanks for watching! It's a Lokar cable shifter with their piston shift knob.
What brand of welder are you using?
Hi Ray, I'm not sure of the brand as it belongs to my buddy. Thanks for the compliment and thanks for watching. Pat
where did you get those body mount rubber bisquits? they look heavier duty than the C1TZ-5400-S.
Hey CB, I ordered them from Carolina Classics. Same P/N that you listed. Thanks for watching! ~Pat
are you going to use the original fuel tank behind the seat?
Hi Iain, I'm going to put a '64-'69 Mustang tank between the frame rails at the rear of the bed. Thanks for watching. ~Pat
Overhead welding is so much fun...not. It’s always a good feeling during a restoration when you get to the point that you’re not sweeping your truck up off the floor at the end of the day.
Ain't that the truth Tom. I was so happy to be done sweeping up rust. ~Pat
Here is what I did on my 76 F100 floor pans. ruclips.net/video/8Ecu4B7U_mM/видео.html