How I Paint Things - The Dip
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2017
- Don't worry, Roger Rabbit fans, it's not that kind of dip!
Today I'm covering a method that lets you churn out infantry figures at a remarkable pace: The Dip. Using the brush on method - sometimes called the splash method - I'll show you the three most important stages of getting your miniatures painted using whatever dip you choose to use, including preparation and materials you'll need to make sure everything goes smoothly. 
Игры
Thanks for this. I've been looking for a decent tutorial on how to use the dip wash for months, and yours is the first that really walks through the process. I've got several colors of Vallejo game wash that works the same way, and it's going to make my life so much easier.
Thanks for this as somebody who has been painting figure's since the 60s it's great to see old school techniques as today's generation seem to have only knowledge of water based paints
Dipping is amazing! My 3000 Point Japanese army, for Bolt Action, is entirely dipped. The stuff's a god send
Very nice final appearance. You have a very pleasant speaking voice, unlike many RUclipsrs.
There is something magical in the “put da mini in da pot” method…
I've been painting & modeling military miniatures for almost 30 years & I WISH I would've been able to see this when I started painting 15mm Napoleonic/battle honours& minifigs! Could've saved 2 or 3 years on my learning curve!Hahahahaha. Thanks for posting
It's pretty handy stuff! Definitely the best solution to masses of infantry that you want to look pretty good on the battlefield. By coincidence I've just started putting my hand to 28mm Napoleonics, so I'll be sure and give this a shot on them to give you some idea how they might turn out!
Adam Fox actually, its not so good on figures under 28mm in my experience, having tried various methods. It is pretty good on perry plastics 28mm but i have tried 20mm and 25mm, mot so good....i would say that you have not at all wasted your time! I hope this helps
Sonic Sledgehammer Studio I've started a few boxes of Perry Frenchy cuirassiers & some of the lead Perry's guard Grenadier a cheval- they match in scale perfectly! But I had to green stuff plumes for my guard cavalry good luck in your new Napoleonic stuff- have literally tons of research material for that period- should you have any questions. Great channel!
Matthew Dobbs - I didn't even think of that! You're probably right; I'd hate to lose any details (unless in was lots of line infantry in overcoats?.) But lately working a sci fy itch and going Horus heresy and marines probably won't benefit from this particular method. Thanks for the input!
I remember the wood varnish method was actually presented in a WD ages ago (on some Orks) :D
The Army painter dips, are a great version, of something historical painters have been doing for ages.
I have always wondered how Army Painter Quick Shade worked on a model and now that I have seen it is very convincing. I still like my Citadel and Vallejo washes but this is a good alternative. Thanks for the information.
It requires a little more preparation, I think, but Strong Tone is fairly close to Agrax Earthshade. Where it comes to plastic models I'll almost always plump for the Citadel washes, but with metal I tend to err on the side of caution and quite like the additional protection that lacquer of dip adds!
This video was awesome thanks for posting it
Looks good 👍
Great and very helpful video, thanks a lot!
Very helpful thanks.
I still brush on varnish even today. Too scared to use varnish spray cans due to fear of frosting, and not much space for airbrush.
I wasn't expecting oil washes to be so gloopy right out of the pot. Then again, I guess I had no idea what to expect lol
Great tips...I had back luck with this in the past. Shaking & stirring the living shit out of it, and using a touch of thinner made all the difference!
The shake and stir is the biggest part of getting it ready to use, I find. I've also had some success by sitting it on top of the radiator during the winter months and letting it warm up a little before using it - probably not so comfortable during the height of summer, though!
love this video and given me some ideas thanks. Could you also dry brush at the end over the varnish rather than paint on the highlights?
The varnish gives a slightly smoother surface than the paint would naturally have, so drybrushing might not work quite as well as normal. You could try drybrushing a lighter colour beforehand and doing the dip and varnish over the top of that.
Hey man love the video, I've ordered my first ever set of miniatures to paint (Warhammer Space Marines) and I'm looking forward to using this method. I'm also curious about what type of varnish you used?
The Army Painter Anti-Shine works pretty well with this, or Citadel's Munitorum Varnish is good, too. If you're looking for a brush-on variant, either Vallejo's Premium Matt or AK Interactive's Ultra Matt do the job!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Thanks for the advice it really helps! I'll definitely have a look into those
Thank you, i am still learning with this stuff, with mixed results.
If there's anything I found that helped me, it's to stir rather than shake the container. It makes sure you can get any of the worst gunk collected at the bottom up and worked into the shade. :)
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Agreed. I just done some boardgame models and it went south when I shook the contrainer... Ohhhhhh deeeeear
Is this a technique you still recommend three years later?
I've started an Imperial Guard army using all Anvil Industry bits for my infantry so the protection this gives resin models is tempting me to give it a go.
It's one I'm still using, so for sure! I'd thoroughly suggest having a go using it on some 'spares' so you've got a chance to get your eye in with the dip before putting it on miniatures you really want to look nice. It works perfectly well, but it can take a little practice to get the best out of it. Just make sure you're stirring the dickens out of it before applying it, and a nice warm room temperature is where you'll get your best results.
Tried this for the first time with a metal frozen mini. Mine looks a lot lighter than yours but it's the same tone. No sure why. It's only been 24 hours... so not yet that 48 hours that you recommend but I like it better than Agrax earth shade. I just wish it was darker and I should have focused more on getting it in the recesses.
No need expensive army painter quickshade. Use oil paint mix with white spirit.
IF only we could do this with agrax eartshade XD
Wow!!!
Hey Sonic,
I noticed here that you said to thin your varnish. Is that only because you used the dip first, or is that something I should always be doing? (I use brush on Vallejo Satin varnish so far)
I tend to thin it out just a little since it applies in a similar way to paint, and if it goes on too thick you can end up with some visible brush strokes. It's very unlikely, mind you! But for a couple of drops of water, you never have to worry about it.
Great video. I was wondering if you could advice with white wings and gold contrast? Cheers!
I'm not sure I totally understand the question. You mean white wings and gold contrast as two separate things, right?
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Im sorry. Those 2 were supposed to be two differend issues. Basicly I bought box of Sanguinary Guards if that helps abit
White wings I'm planning on covering at some point. For gold contrast, personally I'd stick to using a Retributor Armour base and just painting the gold traditionally, though I've seen people getting some neat results by priming with Leadbelcher and using the Nazdreg Yellow over that.
do you have any ratling snipers that in your army? I have a unit and considering the fabulous quality of your previous painting tutorials I recon you could do a good job on making em look good if you do, if you don't doesn't matter really. thanks :)
I have got a unit of Ratlings, as it happens - by coincidence, they're painted and then dipped in much the same way as this fella here was! All the same techniques, starting from a brown basecoat and adding a few colours here and there. They aren't spectacular, honestly, but they do the job on the table. :D
thanks
Hi Sonic sorry to bother you i was just wondering if you can remember what colours were the basecoats on these models as im just starting a Steel Legion army, just dicovered ur channel and think ur content is awesome cheers!
If I'm remembering correctly this guy started from Zandri Dust, but I'd probably put Zamesi Desert over the top of it to give it a more yellow tone if I were to start from scratch this time around!
Cheers will give it a go :)
Any advice for dipping figures in white uniforms, Austrian Napoleonic figures to be precise
Good! can I paint on top off the dip layer BEFORE adding the varnish? It whould make sence to me trying to protect also any details painted.
You can, as a matter of fact! It takes a little bit of practice since the layer is quite shiny, so applying paint can be a little bit difficult at first - you'll need to use just a fraction less water in your paint than you usually would. Also, since the paint will dry matt over a shiny 'undercoat' it can be a little dizzying at times! It absolutely works, though, so give it a shot.
Do you have the same result using a light gray color?
If you are applying this stuff with a brush, and varnishing it afterwards, what is the advantage of the quickshade dip over a more conventional wash & then a varnish?
It settles on the miniature quite a bit differently to a typical acrylic wash; you've got a lot more control over where it sits and settles. Also, if you're painting it over metal miniatures, the combination of dip and varnish makes them all but indestructible. Those suckers won't chip!
Are the new army painter quick washes the same as the quick wash varnish cans? Or are they ink or a normal wash now? Can you use the same method with these new washes as with the cans?
The washes in the little dropper bottles are acrylic, so water-based. You can treat them like any other acrylic paint. You can use them in the same way, though they'll pool and collect on a miniature slightly differently, but everything else about them works the same.
Is it okay for plastics? I’ve used quick shade before but I’m reluctant to use it now as I’ve wrecked many a paint job which whilst not brilliant have been okay for me!
Yup! It'll work for anything. The benefit to brushing it on rather than dipping the miniature is that you'll get much more control over how much you're applying - aim for a similar look to a Citadel shade like Agrax Earthshade as you're applying it and you can't go far wrong.
I think the problem is that the tone just doesn't complement certain colours- 'warm' hues are fine (such as the coat on that figure), but 'cold' colours don't look right. The legs, helmet and weapon really need a black or dark grey shade to be honest.
You're not wrong, to be honest, which is the reason I picked this colour scheme in particular. Probably something I should have brought up! There are three different tones from Army Painter, and I've had some real success using their Dark Tone on deep greens and browns, as well. The problem then becomes cleaning up any skin tones with something brighter - I could have mentioned that it's easy enough to paint and wash over the top of this again, too. A black wash over the varnish would probably take quite well on the weapons.
glossy Space Marines look baller imo
Great video! I bought some Quick Shade last summer and was appalled at how the model looked. After seeing your video, I'll be giving it another shot. I do have a question, After the dip has set would you paint large armor panels afterwards and if so, before or after the matte varnish? Thanks!
The important things to consider, I've found, are that you want to mix the hell out of it before you apply it, and try to do so somewhere in a pleasant temperature range so that the dip will settle and flow around the model naturally. 'Room temperature' is a pretty broad margin, but around 15-20 Celcius is just right.
I've seen some good results with people painting highlights before the varnish, but personally I find it a little difficult since the paint tends not to adhere to larger surfaces. If I were going to repaint larger panels, I'd do that after the wash, myself.
I really like these figurines, can you tell me which game they come from, please?
Anvil industries.
How I dip: Pour enough out of the container into a temporary holder, leaving just enough to submerge the fig, shake the shit out of it in the larger container holding the dip you set aside- no waste. When done, pour the shaker container dip back into the original can you were dipping in.
Doesn't that end up drenching the base in the dip as well? Seems as though that'd end up a potentially messier enterprise than just brushing it on.
At least currently on the Army Painter website, only two of these are currently available, Soft Tone and Dark Tone, I wonder if they felt the other STRONG TONE....which is still in one of the pictures was redundant or simply out of stock while I'm looking?
Might just be out of stock. I can still order it through my local stores and the like. It's easily one of the best bits of kit they produce - I'd hope they wouldn't stop making it!
Could you possibly make a video on how to know what type of plastic the models are made from in relation to types of glue to use? Styrene for instance, I am looking at my glue from SMS (Scale Model Supplies) fantastic company btw, and their glue says on the bottle for use on Styrene...how do I tell if the model is made from styrene plastic?
Honestly, no idea! Some boxes will have the specific make of plastic where others will just say 'hard plastic' and such. Resin and such will still need super glue rather than polystyrene cement.
Try testing the glue on bits of sprue.
I thought you just hold the model by the base upside down and put him into the can head first... then let it drip off it upside down then wait to dry standing up? Then spray can a matte varnish to save time?
Majority that dip let it run down to the basing after shaking off the excess. There is also the dip and brush method. Dip half or less of the mini then use the brush to pull it down. Doesnt waste the quickshade as shaking it off does. Then this video uses the third method of just brushing it on.
Hi Buddy i hope youre still around. I bought this product to hopefully use on my 28mm Napoleonics.
I am pretty new to highlighting with washes etc; i think i may have got my wires crossed when i purchased this product.
As yet i have not seen one Tutorial that used this Dip (or brushed) on an Historical Mini. I have seen this product used exclusively on Fantasy figures.
Do you have any suggestions please? Appreciate your time
Warmest Regards
Stew :-)
I think you might have found the video where I dropped this on some Napoleonic French blokes now. :D It works pretty well, I think, especially if you're aiming for something that'll help you turn out troops for the rank and file at a fantastic rate. Personally I like it most of all for the varnish effect it gives; if you're working with a lot of metal miniatures, making the paint job indestructible is a bloody good side effect!
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio No i needed the Quickshade wash. I ruined 4 figures.
I was following one of your Contemporaries; where he used a wash after (all base Coats were done). washed; then dry brushed then Washed again.
I take it we should only use the Dip when we have completely finished the figure?
Appreciate your time thankyou
Washing twice seems a bit excessive, I'd say. With either the Quickshade wash or the dip, it's almost a final step - you're painting in simple block colours and then shading the whole miniature with the Quickshade. Once it's dry you can matt varnish and highlight how you like, but drybrushing and then shading again? Probably a bit overkill as far as shading goes, I'd think.
I have used that dark tone tin before and it come out awesome but when I used the spay can Antishine it destroy my models it started peeling and send all cloudy and white
Any suggestion and what I might have done wrong ??
The problem is that it can be a bunch of things that're screwy with spray varnishes, unfortunately, so pinning any one of them down isn't fun! There's a few things you can try, though.
First things first, I'd suggest a different spray varnish. Army Painter's cans have never given me the greatest consistency when spraying; either much too much in one go or pathetic spritzes that don't do a thing. In particular with the Quickshade I've heard of people having success with Testors Dullcote, where I've used Citadel's Munitorum Varnish without issue.
Second is to make sure you're preparing the can as best you can before you spray. Give it a good couple of minutes shake before you spray it, and if you can bring it up to room temperature by sitting it near a gentle heat source or tucked under your arm, all the better. People will also talk about humidity being a factor, but Munitorum Varnish seems to gobble that up without problem. If you can get a clear, dry day to spray, try that.
Most importantly, though, is the surface of the models themselves. Once you've given them the Quickshade, leave them for as long as you can before you give them the spray. One of the causes of misting can be slight imperfections in a surface - the varnish gets into all the tiny cracks and divots and makes the light go crazy around the model, resulting in that mist. The good news is that you can usually repair this to some degree. Just get a little brush-on gloss varnish, water it down and try putting it over a part of the model that's misted. If it goes clear and transparent, gloss the whole thing again. I leave my dipped models for 48hrs at a minimum before spraying, and the longer you can leave them somewhere warm and dry - a hot water cupboard is ideal - the better.
Lastly, you can always just use a brush-on varnish. I've used a lot of Vallejo's Matt Varnish on my dipped miniatures and it does the job well. It's not a perfect matt, but it's a good sight less glossy than the dip turns out! Hopefully something here helps. Definitely try a little repair with some fresh varnish from a pot and see if that helps with those that've misted up.
Sonic Sledgehammer Studio thanks man really grateful for the advice
Also do you have any videos of Ultramarines scouts being painted ???
I don't yet... but by some strange coincidence I'm assembling some Scouts now!
Sonic Sledgehammer Studio if can will you post a video of you doing them ??
It seems you're in luck! :D Just gone live today, and I remembered to find this comment thread to tag you with it.
ruclips.net/video/k3ltUpjudYE/видео.html
Flicking makes a huge mess too. My wife was not pleased with the varnish speckled craft room.
You did the flick right there in the room and your wife allowed you to live? Wow...She must really love you!! ;-)
@@alb639 Luckily the craft room was an odd little room off from the garage. Repainted in a color she wanted.
Brill
Could there be problems if i put the highlights before the varnish?
It's much easier to paint over the surface of the matt varnish instead of the glossy surface you'll get from the dry dip. There's nothing wrong with painting straight on the dip, per se, but it'll take a little more practice and your brush might not behave as you're used to.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Even after 48h from the dip?
@@turroluca Yeah, it's still a gloss finish. Something extremely smooth is ordinarily more challenging to paint over than a matt finish; you can highlight over the matt varnish without having to varnish it a second time.
im a quick shade user as it dont stain the colours and darken it like the citadel stuff thumbs up from me mate ....
Thanks, Jim! Depending on what I'm painting I'm a big fan of the Quickshade's tendency to run off the high points really easily. I've even seen some folks who'll do crazy bright highlights before they throw on the dip, which it then shades and blends into the model as well. Plus, of course, the fact it'll take a hammer to the face and not chip! :D
Were did you get those models??????? please answer 😁😁😁😁
These guys are assembled from the Regiments range of infantry from www.anvilindustry.co.uk
Can you buy whole miniatures there? Also are they under trench fighter bits?
quickshade strong tone = agrax earthshade gloss ???
It's quite a different product. Agrax Earthshade and Strong Tone are almost the same colour, but the quickshade dip requires a lot more preparation than the little dropper bottles of acrylic colour!
I like to highlight mine before the dip so they dont look quite so stark... Nice video tho man, good stuff!
I've seen a couple of people doing that, too, and I think you're right - it looks a little better once you get to the finishing touches. Something to change habit-wise on my part!
Wait a second... Is this Jim Brownings alt youtube channel!?
Who?
Is this dip oil based?
I believe so, but don't quote me on that one. I do know that it requires thinners to clean out, though - it won't rinse with just water, so be careful!
yeah definitely not acrylic then lol.
The strong tone seems to keep ruining my minis instead of making them look great like in these videos. Im blown away. Ive tried it on 5 minis so far an they all look like crap now. I want to get this effect so I will keep trying but im ruining minis as I go, valuable minis. They go to my board games so its not like i can just replace them LOL Why does the strong tone keep just turning my whole mini into a brown blob after it dries???Instead of tinting the colors and resting in the creases, it just keeps turning all the colors brown and not resting in the creases, it just spreads away into a brown disaster.
For you its so thin and easy to apply. WHY!?????? And its not really changing the colors of your paints like mine just turns everything brown. Flesh tones are just chocolate afterwards. Im so pissed about this.
There's a couple of things that might be happening here. First off, especially during the winter months, your dip needs to be at a comfortable room temperature. It ought to run similarly to motor oil, not thick and dark like treacle. Make sure you're mixing it up thoroughly before each use; use a stick rather than shaking the can and stir for a good couple of minutes before each time you use it.
Secondly, if you've had the can open for a while, the seal isn't perfect and you'll slowly get it thickening over time. You can add a little turpentine or white spirits and stir that in to thin the mixture again, but do this very sparingly. Add a tablespoon of thinner, mix it thoroughly and see how it flows.
Finally, you may simply find you're using too much. Try finding an old miniature or some off-cuts you don't need any more and experiment with a couple of basecoats and a thinner layer of the dip. When you're applying it, if all the other steps seem alright, try using your brush while it's still damp to wick away some of the extra dip as it collects and pools on flat surfaces. You don't want to drown the model in it, you're using this similarly to a shade or wash.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio Nope. Ive added thinner and its still too thick, its room temp. It keeps ruining my minis. I added even more thinner and tried to brush it on and... RUINED again. It wont flick off after the dip and it wont run and settle into the cracks over a 30 second period (it gets too sticky too fast). I wont work at all like in your video. Yours is thin and stays wet for a period of time while mine is like thick milky chocolate milk that turns into tree sap within a minute. WHY!????
@@supersteve76 I'm not sure what else to tell you. If yours looks completely different than mine coming out of the tin, it might be that it's a bad batch which wasn't properly sealed? I have no idea, but it might be worth ditching that container and swapping to an acrylic shade or the bottled Strong Tone.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I think it was a bad batch. I was pretty upset and venting bro, sorry bout that LOL I returned it today and went to Pegasus Hobbies in Montclair CA and got a small jar of Citadel Agrax Earthshade. What a difference!!! Works right out of the jar.
@@SonicSledgehammerStudio OMG! I just finished using the Citadel Agrax Earthshade on my first mini and it looks great. So easy to use!! What a difference.
what miniature is this?
He's one of the Anvil Industries range of Regiments figures, assembled using their squad builder options.
anvilindustry.co.uk/Regiments/regiments-full-squads
Thanks!
What Model is that?
This is a collection of parts from Anvil Industries 'Regiments' range. You can buy individual pieces, or whole squads made of parts of your choosing.
anvilindustry.co.uk/