I have some pretty extensive experience with this stuff, mass producing dnd minis and whatnot. A few things that might be useful and maximize your time and money. Don’t be afraid to do some highlighting and shading before or after you apply this stuff and let it dry. A quick dry brush or whatever over some raised details before application gives you 3 steps of highlight instead of 2 and doesn’t take long. I like to zenithal my minis even when I’m using this stuff. Transfer the stuff to a mason jar. The lids in the default container are notorious for not staying air tight and will dry your can out after a while. Next, you can mix it with mineral spirits. This pretty much triples how much shade you have and cuts down in its thickness, letting detail shine through. I cut mine 2:1, spirits to quickshade. I used a kitchen scale to weigh out the spirits to keep it precise. Mineral spirits don’t eat your paint, and thinning the stuff honestly helps it flow and not cover too much detail. You can always give areas you want more heavily shaded another go after the first coat dries. Lastly, brush it on. Dunking it down in there is quick but it’s a pain in the ass, wastes shade and causes a huge mess. Just use a shitty brush and a paper towel or clean brush to remove excess wash, and clean your brush with the white mineral spirits once youre done applying the stuff. Give it at least 24 hours to dry. You’ll notice a huge difference in how the color settles into the detail at this point as opposed to when you first put it on. And yes this stuff dries very glossy. Hit it with your favorite matte coat and it goes right away. I use Vallejo but any kind will do. It’s easier to paint over if you matte is first too, in case you want to add more detail after though shade with this stuff.
I cannot get this crap to work for me at all what-so-ever. I got the 250ml can to dip and the first mini I dipped was ruined. Too thick. I added thinner to it and still, ruined mini after ruined mini. I then added more thinner and brushed it on...... ruined. This stuff does NOT work as advertised. Adding thinner only made this crap work worse. It doesnt flick off after the dip and it doesnt settle into crack over a 30 second period (it dries up too fast) then it wont soak up in to the dry brush from the pooled areas. This stuff sucks!!!!!! Never again.
@@supersteve76 dang man I’m sorry to hear that. It’s pretty expensive to have such a bad experience. When I first used it I had issues like that but I quickly started only brushing it on and getting a good feel for how it settles. I actually used some last night in some plague bearers I’m working on and it went on like a dream. I thinned it 3 to 1 with mineral spirits so it was very thin. More of a filter/panel line all in one. I used it as my unifying wash at the very end. The mineral spirits do make it dry slightly faster but I haven’t had any problems with it settling where it needs to be. Usually it doesn’t look the way it’s going to when it’s finished until about 12 hours in.
@@Kid_illithid I added a shit load of thinner and tested it on a couple of my Zombicide zombies and I use the brush on method, it didnt work at all. This stuff just got work after adding the thinner. It wont stay thin and wet for a long period of time, it just turns thick and sticky almost right away.
A few observations: First off, I'm one of those "old school" painters that originally scoffed at the idea that this type of product would be worth using. Boy, was I wrong! Okay: 1. You'll be better served to brush this on rather than dipping, for several reasons - more control, less waste of the dip, less mess. 2. You'll get your best results if you either pre-highlight your miniatures before dipping, or go ahead and highlight after the dip dries. 3. Yes, you MUST matt varnish afterwards, unless you are doing something you want to have super glossy. Trust me, you can get SUPER results using this product, and they'll be nicely protected as well. Great video!
Having used the product, I can understand the scoffing, it's not as good as doing it all slowly and carefully, but its exactly the same as getting McDonalds instead of making your own burgers, time and effort :-D I've just started using it on Wulfsburg: 1. You're right, dipping it has not been great, however brushing it would take longer... I wonder how much longer? And at that point aren't you just better off using a wash? 2. The wolves got a colour primer, and then dipped, not got to highlighting, but I think doing it at this step will hopefully work out best. 3. Glad I wasn't imagining it, they were the shiniest minis I've ever seen :-D I don't use gloss :-D Thanks for your feedback! Really great to hear we've had similar experience, and I'll take on board your brush over dip method, I bet like most things, there's a time and a place for each - chests seem fine with dip, wolves seem less fine (so far).
I used the quickshades on my Massive Darkness mobs (everything but agents / monsters / heroes) and found that dipping was just too heavy. Instead I brushed on to one figure at a time. Straight after applying I would wipe off the brush and then went back over those parts of the model where the brightest highlights would occur to remove as much of the shade as possible. The quickshade does darken things quite a lot so it can help to paint things a bit brighter than normal before putting it on. A spray with matt varnish then brings the whole thing to life.
Brushing on may take a bit longer, but not overly so and I think you'll be happier with the results. I find it's definitely the way to go if you have large armies to complete and want to do so in your lifetime! I've also found it works quite well to revive older painted minis. I had a gaming friend of mine ask me to "resurrect" some dreadful 20+ year-old Assyrian minis, and by using the AP strong tone and a few highlights they looked like a new army!
Army Painter sells a specific "Anti-shine" varnish spray especially used for covering models dipped in this quick shade gloop :D ... use it, It's awesome! ... I did use this once, long ago, did a great job on my mantic zombies, but they stuck to everything, the shade was like honey, sticking everything to everything else ... awful experience, which led me to never using it again .. but it does do a good job :D
I am experiencing a very similar issue with my wolves at the moment :-D they feel like glue to touch :-D I’ll have a look at the anti shine spray. Thanks for the heads up!
I appreciate the effort you put into sharing this content. I purchased Quick Shade Dark Tone a while ago, but I have not gotten a chance to use it. I am painting models to play games and I want them to last, look reasonably okay on the table, etc. I would watch other 'how-to' type videos. Thanks.
Thanks for the kind comment! I’m the same, it’s more about making my games look awesome when playing than amazing on a shelf :-D fast is best for me :-)
I use Minwax Polyshades all the time. Reasons: 1) no local gaming/hobby store anymore to get Quickshade, 2) almost a dozen different colors/shades, 3) 1/4 to 1/3 the price (depends on whether local hardware store or Home Depot has color I wanted). True, figures turn out shinier than Malcolm Reynold’s dreams but that is a polyurethane Armor you just put on them. After a game of Zombicide: Black Plague, I quite literally toss the figures into their spot in the glorified tackle box I use to store them. Have done this for over a year now & none of the figures have needed so much as a touch up. Only issue at all was Ostokar’s floating hands broke off but that was because someone sat on him.
Very nice! Yeah never listen to elitists. There's nothing wrong with wanting to be the best painter possible without products like this. But some of us are just trying to build an army and make it look good enough.
Great comment :-) and yeah over the years I’ve just leaned more and more into painting as well as I can as fast as I can! I’m painting to play!!! Happy painting :-)
A couple extra tips for this stuff. I have found that stirring the can well works better than a good shake due to all the bubbles than can sometimes transfer onto your model when dipping. Most of the time they disappear but they can look ugly if you miss one and it dries. I have also found that Minwax polyshade wood stain is basically the exact same product for 1/4 the price and I use that exclusively now. Just select the color that matches the effect you are going for. And because this is basically wood stain you do have to spray a matt finish over the final product as it is quite glossy when you are done.
Definitely thought the same about the shaking/stirring choice. I saw all the bubbles - although they caused me 0 issues, I did think that they *could*. Oh. I’ve got to try that wood stain! I did find this product to be on the expensive side (especially because I don’t think I’ll use it that often. Thanks for the great tips!
Hi there. Quickshade definitely has its place. I used it on a warhammer choas army all rank n file models. A clean basic paint job. A little dry brush. Paint on the QS. Remove excess and when behind the better painted unit command looked awesome. It will not win you golden demon but used correctly its great for mass model painting for the likes of massive darkness zombicide etc where a 2 to 3ft from tabletop is viewed. Easy way to cut through tons of the same pose minis in these games to leave more time for the larger and character models.
Couldn’t agree with this more Robbie. Thanks for adding your experience in the comments. I’m currently trying this out on a horde of zombie wolves! Definitely can’t see anyway I could get through all my hordes if I don’t find some quicker ways of doing them - like QS!
Ahhhhhh in life we need 2 things : Love & Quickshade. Quickshade is really good to achive quickly regular mini, like zombies in zombicide. The others, this awesome game... I can not wait to see the token in this tasty oil and see what happens. As for the zombie wolf, I find the idea necessarily great. =)
Completely agree. I think quickshade is perfect for a lot of cmon games. All these hordes that we never even look at! I’m just trying it out on the wolvez now. So far I’m 50-50. I’m enjoying that I’ve spent 14 minutes so far and have finished base coat and shading 21 wolves :-D I’m disappointed they don’t look good yet. Hopefully after highlighting they look good enough
It's great for the mobs in massive darkness. Although I prefer to brush it on and soak up the extra with another brush. Zenithal prime before quick shade works great.
Thanks as always! Yeah shame it's a little pricey, I doubt I'll use it *that* much but I'm super glad I have it now, hopefully I'm putting Patreon support to good use :-D
Product application/reviews are always helpful, even if it's a new take on an established product. Personally, I watch different channels to see a variety of techniques and styles. I can then cherry-pick what works best for me. Thanks for putting yourself out there.
Can you describe how much ventilation you had or think you need using this stuff? It's too cold outside to use it outdoors right now, so I'm wondering if I could use it indoors?
You know what? I didn't even consider it! My face was about 1-2 foot away from the tin, and it was open for about 5 minutes. Nothing on the tin mentions ventalation, and I didn't notice any smell or effect myself - I'm sure it stinks if I got close enough :-D I was in a large room in my house though, but if you're concerned do it near an open window and I think you'd be completely fine :-)
Great video, would move to see same thing with a character instead of object. Concur with comments about matt varnish, which I use after a gloss varnish for real protection. Keep up the great work
What is the quickshade doing that is different from simply putting down washes? Obviously something more than simply getting into recesses and shading. I'm intrigued but never seen models in person that used it.
Two things, comes in a tin you can literally dip a mini in OR use a brush to slap it all over, but secondly it dries very hard - like varnish! So your miniature is protected afterwards.
Yeah it would, but it’s all in one, and sometimes you want the shine. I’m not saying this is the right choice all the time, I was just telling you how it differed from washes :-)
I used quickshade on my wolves. Personally, I’d rather use regular wash and dry brushing. These guys have a lot of holes and crevices where you don’t want the QS to pool and removing it is a pain. Their furry texture allow for very quick and very simple highlighting with a dry brush. That’s what I thought.
Quickshade is a tool. No shade is going to give you pro level painting effects. It's a step in a long line of steps to get good results. Quickshade Darktone is pretty cool stuff. It's great for hordes of models like Zombicide etc.
How to use Army Painter Quickshade: If you're unfortunate enough to have wasted your money on this stuff then simply just throw it in the trash can. Right were it belongs!!!! This garbage ruined 5 of my mini's!! No amount of thinner added to it made it work. Just a thick, miniature ruining disaster.
![[QUICKSHADE Strong tone] - BOTTLE OR CAN ?](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/My_ftjrE28Y/mqdefault.jpg)
What do you guys reckon? Time and a place for this stuff? What should I try next? How about those wolves?
I'm painting tons of orks so this stuff is essential to get them all done before I lose my mind.
I have some pretty extensive experience with this stuff, mass producing dnd minis and whatnot. A few things that might be useful and maximize your time and money.
Don’t be afraid to do some highlighting and shading before or after you apply this stuff and let it dry. A quick dry brush or whatever over some raised details before application gives you 3 steps of highlight instead of 2 and doesn’t take long. I like to zenithal my minis even when I’m using this stuff.
Transfer the stuff to a mason jar. The lids in the default container are notorious for not staying air tight and will dry your can out after a while.
Next, you can mix it with mineral spirits. This pretty much triples how much shade you have and cuts down in its thickness, letting detail shine through. I cut mine 2:1, spirits to quickshade. I used a kitchen scale to weigh out the spirits to keep it precise. Mineral spirits don’t eat your paint, and thinning the stuff honestly helps it flow and not cover too much detail. You can always give areas you want more heavily shaded another go after the first coat dries.
Lastly, brush it on. Dunking it down in there is quick but it’s a pain in the ass, wastes shade and causes a huge mess. Just use a shitty brush and a paper towel or clean brush to remove excess wash, and clean your brush with the white mineral spirits once youre done applying the stuff.
Give it at least 24 hours to dry. You’ll notice a huge difference in how the color settles into the detail at this point as opposed to when you first put it on.
And yes this stuff dries very glossy. Hit it with your favorite matte coat and it goes right away. I use Vallejo but any kind will do. It’s easier to paint over if you matte is first too, in case you want to add more detail after though shade with this stuff.
I cannot get this crap to work for me at all what-so-ever. I got the 250ml can to dip and the first mini I dipped was ruined. Too thick. I added thinner to it and still, ruined mini after ruined mini. I then added more thinner and brushed it on...... ruined. This stuff does NOT work as advertised. Adding thinner only made this crap work worse. It doesnt flick off after the dip and it doesnt settle into crack over a 30 second period (it dries up too fast) then it wont soak up in to the dry brush from the pooled areas. This stuff sucks!!!!!! Never again.
@@supersteve76 dang man I’m sorry to hear that. It’s pretty expensive to have such a bad experience.
When I first used it I had issues like that but I quickly started only brushing it on and getting a good feel for how it settles.
I actually used some last night in some plague bearers I’m working on and it went on like a dream. I thinned it 3 to 1 with mineral spirits so it was very thin. More of a filter/panel line all in one. I used it as my unifying wash at the very end.
The mineral spirits do make it dry slightly faster but I haven’t had any problems with it settling where it needs to be.
Usually it doesn’t look the way it’s going to when it’s finished until about 12 hours in.
@@Kid_illithid I added a shit load of thinner and tested it on a couple of my Zombicide zombies and I use the brush on method, it didnt work at all. This stuff just got work after adding the thinner. It wont stay thin and wet for a long period of time, it just turns thick and sticky almost right away.
@@supersteve76 I wonder if you got a bad batch? It might be worth reaching out to the company.
@@sethrinker9944 I returned it
A few observations: First off, I'm one of those "old school" painters that originally scoffed at the idea that this type of product would be worth using. Boy, was I wrong! Okay: 1. You'll be better served to brush this on rather than dipping, for several reasons - more control, less waste of the dip, less mess. 2. You'll get your best results if you either pre-highlight your miniatures before dipping, or go ahead and highlight after the dip dries. 3. Yes, you MUST matt varnish afterwards, unless you are doing something you want to have super glossy. Trust me, you can get SUPER results using this product, and they'll be nicely protected as well. Great video!
Having used the product, I can understand the scoffing, it's not as good as doing it all slowly and carefully, but its exactly the same as getting McDonalds instead of making your own burgers, time and effort :-D
I've just started using it on Wulfsburg:
1. You're right, dipping it has not been great, however brushing it would take longer... I wonder how much longer? And at that point aren't you just better off using a wash?
2. The wolves got a colour primer, and then dipped, not got to highlighting, but I think doing it at this step will hopefully work out best.
3. Glad I wasn't imagining it, they were the shiniest minis I've ever seen :-D I don't use gloss :-D
Thanks for your feedback! Really great to hear we've had similar experience, and I'll take on board your brush over dip method, I bet like most things, there's a time and a place for each - chests seem fine with dip, wolves seem less fine (so far).
I used the quickshades on my Massive Darkness mobs (everything but agents / monsters / heroes) and found that dipping was just too heavy. Instead I brushed on to one figure at a time. Straight after applying I would wipe off the brush and then went back over those parts of the model where the brightest highlights would occur to remove as much of the shade as possible. The quickshade does darken things quite a lot so it can help to paint things a bit brighter than normal before putting it on. A spray with matt varnish then brings the whole thing to life.
Brushing on may take a bit longer, but not overly so and I think you'll be happier with the results. I find it's definitely the way to go if you have large armies to complete and want to do so in your lifetime! I've also found it works quite well to revive older painted minis. I had a gaming friend of mine ask me to "resurrect" some dreadful 20+ year-old Assyrian minis, and by using the AP strong tone and a few highlights they looked like a new army!
Army Painter sells a specific "Anti-shine" varnish spray especially used for covering models dipped in this quick shade gloop :D ... use it, It's awesome! ... I did use this once, long ago, did a great job on my mantic zombies, but they stuck to everything, the shade was like honey, sticking everything to everything else ... awful experience, which led me to never using it again .. but it does do a good job :D
I am experiencing a very similar issue with my wolves at the moment :-D they feel like glue to touch :-D I’ll have a look at the anti shine spray. Thanks for the heads up!
I appreciate the effort you put into sharing this content. I purchased Quick Shade Dark Tone a while ago, but I have not gotten a chance to use it. I am painting models to play games and I want them to last, look reasonably okay on the table, etc. I would watch other 'how-to' type videos. Thanks.
Thanks for the kind comment! I’m the same, it’s more about making my games look awesome when playing than amazing on a shelf :-D fast is best for me :-)
I use Minwax Polyshades all the time. Reasons: 1) no local gaming/hobby store anymore to get Quickshade, 2) almost a dozen different colors/shades, 3) 1/4 to 1/3 the price (depends on whether local hardware store or Home Depot has color I wanted).
True, figures turn out shinier than Malcolm Reynold’s dreams but that is a polyurethane Armor you just put on them. After a game of Zombicide: Black Plague, I quite literally toss the figures into their spot in the glorified tackle box I use to store them. Have done this for over a year now & none of the figures have needed so much as a touch up. Only issue at all was Ostokar’s floating hands broke off but that was because someone sat on him.
Very nice! Yeah never listen to elitists. There's nothing wrong with wanting to be the best painter possible without products like this. But some of us are just trying to build an army and make it look good enough.
Great comment :-) and yeah over the years I’ve just leaned more and more into painting as well as I can as fast as I can! I’m painting to play!!! Happy painting :-)
A couple extra tips for this stuff. I have found that stirring the can well works better than a good shake due to all the bubbles than can sometimes transfer onto your model when dipping. Most of the time they disappear but they can look ugly if you miss one and it dries. I have also found that Minwax polyshade wood stain is basically the exact same product for 1/4 the price and I use that exclusively now. Just select the color that matches the effect you are going for. And because this is basically wood stain you do have to spray a matt finish over the final product as it is quite glossy when you are done.
Definitely thought the same about the shaking/stirring choice. I saw all the bubbles - although they caused me 0 issues, I did think that they *could*. Oh. I’ve got to try that wood stain! I did find this product to be on the expensive side (especially because I don’t think I’ll use it that often. Thanks for the great tips!
Shake before open. Solid advice :D
:-D :-D pro-tips, every week!
Hi there. Quickshade definitely has its place. I used it on a warhammer choas army all rank n file models. A clean basic paint job. A little dry brush. Paint on the QS. Remove excess and when behind the better painted unit command looked awesome. It will not win you golden demon but used correctly its great for mass model painting for the likes of massive darkness zombicide etc where a 2 to 3ft from tabletop is viewed. Easy way to cut through tons of the same pose minis in these games to leave more time for the larger and character models.
Couldn’t agree with this more Robbie. Thanks for adding your experience in the comments. I’m currently trying this out on a horde of zombie wolves! Definitely can’t see anyway I could get through all my hordes if I don’t find some quicker ways of doing them - like QS!
Is this the acrylic version or polyurethane ?
Very useful tips
Ahhhhhh in life we need 2 things : Love & Quickshade.
Quickshade is really good to achive quickly regular mini, like zombies in zombicide.
The others, this awesome game...
I can not wait to see the token in this tasty oil and see what happens. As for the zombie wolf, I find the idea necessarily great. =)
Completely agree. I think quickshade is perfect for a lot of cmon games. All these hordes that we never even look at! I’m just trying it out on the wolvez now. So far I’m 50-50. I’m enjoying that I’ve spent 14 minutes so far and have finished base coat and shading 21 wolves :-D I’m disappointed they don’t look good yet. Hopefully after highlighting they look good enough
It's great for the mobs in massive darkness. Although I prefer to brush it on and soak up the extra with another brush. Zenithal prime before quick shade works great.
I think for better models than these chests, the brush method might be better, but I don't think anything can beat the speed of this dipping :-D
Awesome job mate i will be buying some soon thank you for the video
Thanks as always! Yeah shame it's a little pricey, I doubt I'll use it *that* much but I'm super glad I have it now, hopefully I'm putting Patreon support to good use :-D
Product application/reviews are always helpful, even if it's a new take on an established product. Personally, I watch different channels to see a variety of techniques and styles. I can then cherry-pick what works best for me. Thanks for putting yourself out there.
Glad you find it useful :-)
Can you describe how much ventilation you had or think you need using this stuff? It's too cold outside to use it outdoors right now, so I'm wondering if I could use it indoors?
You know what? I didn't even consider it! My face was about 1-2 foot away from the tin, and it was open for about 5 minutes. Nothing on the tin mentions ventalation, and I didn't notice any smell or effect myself - I'm sure it stinks if I got close enough :-D I was in a large room in my house though, but if you're concerned do it near an open window and I think you'd be completely fine :-)
Great video, would move to see same thing with a character instead of object. Concur with comments about matt varnish, which I use after a gloss varnish for real protection. Keep up the great work
Awesome, I'll give some wolves a try soon - using the dip method. But might try some people maybe with the brush method sometime after.
Looks great! A matte medium finish or anti-shine whatever will bring these back to a Matt and make them look even better. Thanks for the cool video!
Thanks for the tip William!!
What is the quickshade doing that is different from simply putting down washes? Obviously something more than simply getting into recesses and shading. I'm intrigued but never seen models in person that used it.
Two things, comes in a tin you can literally dip a mini in OR use a brush to slap it all over, but secondly it dries very hard - like varnish! So your miniature is protected afterwards.
Wouldn’t matte varnish spray over a normal model give the same protection? You end up doing anyway that to remove the gloss of QS.
Yeah it would, but it’s all in one, and sometimes you want the shine. I’m not saying this is the right choice all the time, I was just telling you how it differed from washes :-)
Can I thin the quicksade with wd40??
I have no idea :-O try it with a sample?
I used quickshade on my wolves. Personally, I’d rather use regular wash and dry brushing. These guys have a lot of holes and crevices where you don’t want the QS to pool and removing it is a pain. Their furry texture allow for very quick and very simple highlighting with a dry brush. That’s what I thought.
Great vid! Thx. What colour are you drybrushing with?
The same colour as the base to begin with, then adding a little white to each colour to lighten up a brighter highlight
Watch It Paint It thx!
Quickshade is a tool. No shade is going to give you pro level painting effects. It's a step in a long line of steps to get good results. Quickshade Darktone is pretty cool stuff. It's great for hordes of models like Zombicide etc.
I feel like a similiar product in colors like blue, red and purple would work quite well for quickly doing transparent ghost/spirits.
This shader ruins models , it makes them all brown and muddy. Please avoid
I enjoy these types of videos.
I'm glad! I've added a few tip/generic videos now, hope to add more and more.
thnx for this awesome video!
Glad you liked it!
Is shade the same as a wash?
How to use Army Painter Quickshade: If you're unfortunate enough to have wasted your money on this stuff then simply just throw it in the trash can. Right were it belongs!!!! This garbage ruined 5 of my mini's!! No amount of thinner added to it made it work. Just a thick, miniature ruining disaster.
wulfsburg gets my vote
Consider it done!