EGON has just released the all-in one relay and compact DC distribution board. Game-changing simplicity. Wiring examples and instructions: www.egon.com.au/relay-hub-instal/ An extremely cost and space efficient way to add switching relays and add additional power distribution circuits to any DC installation. All the time-consuming relay wiring is done for you. Uses common automotive relays. Plug & Play. BUY/ORDER: perthpro.com.au MORE INFO and QUESTIONS: www.egon.com.au
If your budget cannot afford 600$ for a connector plate but understand automotive electrical you just can buy a relay/fuse box from car scrapyard for 20$. I’m not criticizing this good product but just offer alternative to low budget projects.
EGON products simplify installations and make them more reliable and easier to diagnose installation faults. And because of this, are far cheaper than traditional installations because of the huge savings in labour time and expertise. For the DIY person doing it him or herself on the cheap, Egon products are not for you. We make no excuses for this.
You are getting into too much detail. If you want to sell it, you need to be able to summarise what it does and the benefits that it gives in a 20 second pitch.
I like the idea, however there are in my eyes some drawbacks: - there's no high power relay port for switching a twin compressor for example. So if I need that, I need a separate relay & wiring anyhow - five relays might not be enough - rated only 80A total, is that correct? - print layout could have been made smaller - control switch lines are not fused, so I have to add inline fuse holders or a fuse box anyhow Deal breaker is the price: 650 GBP or 760 EUR. A skilled electrician would do a conventional cabling/setup in two hours plus material at a fraction of that.
Ok- I. Get it-- Great product, I love it and I’m a fan of your work, guys. I have a question though. Isn’t one of the main reasons for using a relay… 1) Not having high current running through your switches- Hence low current switching side. Now 2) Ensuring the least voltage drop on the work (high current side) by having the relay as close as practicable to the accessory. Ie; lets say we put your relay board in the back… great for fridge, oven, etc… in the back. BUT if youre then wanting driving lights, winch, or say compressor- up front…. You are now required to run heavy, high current cables back to the front of the vehicle- for each circuit. Does that make sense? I’m struggling to appreciate why I wouldn’t place my relays in close proximity to my accessories- to minimise all this large heavy current cabling, etc. Does that make sense?
Let's say your relay is next to your device. You still have to run the same gauge wire to the relay from the battery. So, you see, the cable run is a function of the distance between device and battery and not device relay. This product may allow you to have shorter heavy gauge runs as you can place it in a central location. Hope that help clarify what they are trying to achieve. I'm not a fan of it for other reasons, but it does work to simplify an installation and remove failure points.
Yes- so if the winch and battery are at the front of the car….Power run is battery to relay to winch… shortest possible run of wire- that’s my point…. It’s more efficient to have separate relays, in this instance/example. In my first post above…. Assuming the Egon relay hub is in the back… that works for say fridge and oven. But for eg; winch- The power cable would need to run from battery to Egon relay hub then back to winch- and separately back forward for driving lights, etc. The answer is of course to use separate relay hubs front and rear… but now we’re talking $$$$- for what gain?
I have my doubts about screw terminal usage. Vibration in such a vehicles can loosen even spring loaded terminal enough over the time that it can overheat. Why not use automotive connectors and I don’t mean these DIY style spades or horrible molex type connectors. Proper ip rated waterproof stuff. You still need to crimp anyway. For corrosion protection you need this box also to be somewhat waterproof. Unless you conformally coat pcb and use some really thick gold plating on contacts you have issues soon. Exception is if you use it exclusively in dry hot climate. Overall idea is great but solution is too diy and not automotive but as a lot of installations are very very diy I guess it’s ok.
These are not screw terminals.They look like it, but they are clamp terminals with torque settings. You do not need to crimp. The terminals do the crimping. They are unlike anything you have ever seen. The relay connectors are automotive types because they wanted to make it accessible to the most people, but they are an extremely high quality. Once in, the relays are tough to remove the connections are so tight. The components are unique. Designed by a German mechatronics engineer who worked for VW and Mercedes.
@@4xoverlandI understand that they are clamp terminals and being made by Weidmüller are no doubt the very high-end ones as they are in use in all kinds of industrial settings. My point is that all these types of systems are usually meant to work in relatively non vibration environments so there is a risk for them to come loose, hence most modern automotive systems don't use these types of connectors anymore. I am not stating that they are not adequate or suitable for this particular intended role at all. Just wondering if proper automotive connectors wouldn't be more suitable for this type of the system. Again, there is no intended criticism for this particular design just trying to pass my humble opinion. On the crimping side you of course can leave out ferrules, but this is again not good practice if you take industrial and automotive practices and Weidmüller own instructions lists all test and conformation data only with suitable ferrules and not as bare cables. On relay side I have no doubt that this solution works absolutely fine.
Because it will save you and them a lot of labour time, it is far more reliable than normal relay installations and has self diagnostics, which you garage cannot offer you.
I’m a fan of your videos and Heiner’s videos too. But these products make no sense to me. They seem to over-complicate rather than simplify, and designed to be on display rather than being easily concealed. But wish you every success.
They make complete sense to anyone doing DC installations and need little explanation. Its designed to be on display because it has fuses. One has to access it to run the wires, it has self diagnostic LEDs. Like any fuse box or item with serviceable components, it has to be easily accessible.
I have an overland rig that has been to 42 countries, with aux battery and engine bay mounted fusing and wiring. This is the usual stuff, like driving lights, compressor, interior lighting, fridge, inverter etc. I think I’ve replaced one fuse in 14 years, maybe two.. I never even think about it. Maybe I’ve been lucky. If electrical had been a nightmare, maybe I’d see the value.
Mosfet's are no doubt a better solution, but in all fairness other than some additional current draw, reliability of modern mechanical relays isn't really going to be an issue. If you're hell bent on solid state, Hella do a SSR in a normal auto relay package that could be retrofitted. Where SSR's come into there own are PWM applications, like varying the speed of a water pump or the brightness of an LED light.
Pay the money and have a quality auto elec use the existing spare relay and fuse locations in the oem boxes. Good, clean and no need to find somewhere to mount non IP rated things.
So it’s not IP ratted, how do you mount it under a bonnet for spot lights. Or do you need to run longer cables into the cab which will create more current drop.
Automotive relays are usually sealed. As long as it's not salt water, it should be fine. This relay board costs 520 so I would definitely recommend make your own. 5 circuits is not difficult or timely as proclaimed.
You think this is just 5 relay circuits? It's not. But you make a good point. Make a cheap one without a board for about 50% of the retail price. How to do it: Figure out the wiring. Its 5 relays plus a power board with self diagnostics on all circuits. Figure that out. Find the connectors. There are lots like them on Amazon, but these are unlike anything found on the Internet anywhere. Clue: they are not made in China. Find a bracket that encloses and protects the entire unit. It can be done. If you have the time. A lot of time. And that is the point of it. Saves time by making complex things simple, minimises voltage drop (no hand-built system will come close to this) and its extremely efficient and robust.
@4xoverland it's mainly the cost that I have issue. I think your attitude is what can we charge people who don't understand electronic, not how can we make it as cheap as possible(at a good quality) and add our margin. Are you trying to improve the 4x4 space or make money? I personally don't find electronics complicated, so a led that lights when a fuse blows doesn't mean much, and I know the cost is low to design and implement that. If it had 5 high power and 15 low power with manual switching and Bluetooth switching, shunts for current readouts, power usage records, and history, maybe it's worth more. You still need to wire it in and have switching panels, etc, so there is more cost as well.
Cost isn’t an issue. If you want quality products they cost money. You can get switches cheap from Wish if you won’t want to spend money. I am interested in practical applications. I don’t own a troop carrier or a Ute with a flat on the back. So simplify my wiring is great. But where can it fit it. Currently all my electronics are in the inner gaurd as it’s the only space I have. I am re-building my car in the end of the year and this would be great but I cannot see an open circuit board working. I also don’t want a switch pro.
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EGON has just released the all-in one relay and compact DC distribution board. Game-changing simplicity.
Wiring examples and instructions: www.egon.com.au/relay-hub-instal/
An extremely cost and space efficient way to add switching relays and add additional power distribution circuits to any DC installation.
All the time-consuming relay wiring is done for you. Uses common automotive relays. Plug & Play.
BUY/ORDER: perthpro.com.au
MORE INFO and QUESTIONS: www.egon.com.au
If your budget cannot afford 600$ for a connector plate but understand automotive electrical you just can buy a relay/fuse box from car scrapyard for 20$. I’m not criticizing this good product but just offer alternative to low budget projects.
EGON products simplify installations and make them more reliable and easier to diagnose installation faults. And because of this, are far cheaper than traditional installations because of the huge savings in labour time and expertise. For the DIY person doing it him or herself on the cheap, Egon products are not for you. We make no excuses for this.
You are getting into too much detail. If you want to sell it, you need to be able to summarise what it does and the benefits that it gives in a 20 second pitch.
Agreed. I have no idea what this product is supposed to do.
hahhaa - depends who your selling it to
I like the idea, however there are in my eyes some drawbacks:
- there's no high power relay port for switching a twin compressor for example. So if I need that, I need a separate relay & wiring anyhow
- five relays might not be enough
- rated only 80A total, is that correct?
- print layout could have been made smaller
- control switch lines are not fused, so I have to add inline fuse holders or a fuse box anyhow
Deal breaker is the price: 650 GBP or 760 EUR. A skilled electrician would do a conventional cabling/setup in two hours plus material at a fraction of that.
I like this setup, but if it's R17, 000 in South African money? Eina😢
Ok- I. Get it-- Great product, I love it and I’m a fan of your work, guys. I have a question though. Isn’t one of the main reasons for using a relay… 1) Not having high current running through your switches- Hence low current switching side. Now 2) Ensuring the least voltage drop on the work (high current side) by having the relay as close as practicable to the accessory. Ie; lets say we put your relay board in the back… great for fridge, oven, etc… in the back. BUT if youre then wanting driving lights, winch, or say compressor- up front…. You are now required to run heavy, high current cables back to the front of the vehicle- for each circuit. Does that make sense? I’m struggling to appreciate why I wouldn’t place my relays in close proximity to my accessories- to minimise all this large heavy current cabling, etc. Does that make sense?
Let's say your relay is next to your device. You still have to run the same gauge wire to the relay from the battery. So, you see, the cable run is a function of the distance between device and battery and not device relay.
This product may allow you to have shorter heavy gauge runs as you can place it in a central location.
Hope that help clarify what they are trying to achieve. I'm not a fan of it for other reasons, but it does work to simplify an installation and remove failure points.
Yes- so if the winch and battery are at the front of the car….Power run is battery to relay to winch… shortest possible run of wire- that’s my point…. It’s more efficient to have separate relays, in this instance/example. In my first post above…. Assuming the Egon relay hub is in the back… that works for say fridge and oven. But for eg; winch- The power cable would need to run from battery to Egon relay hub then back to winch- and separately back forward for driving lights, etc. The answer is of course to use separate relay hubs front and rear… but now we’re talking $$$$- for what gain?
Relays in vehicles and fuses are in a box all together when you buy your truck away from lights etc so what’s your problem ya neg
Needs them flashing lights bloody looks like the flux capastor 😂
Where do you recommend mounting the relay-hub? Under the bonnet or inside the cab somewhere?
I have my doubts about screw terminal usage. Vibration in such a vehicles can loosen even spring loaded terminal enough over the time that it can overheat. Why not use automotive connectors and I don’t mean these DIY style spades or horrible molex type connectors. Proper ip rated waterproof stuff. You still need to crimp anyway. For corrosion protection you need this box also to be somewhat waterproof. Unless you conformally coat pcb and use some really thick gold plating on contacts you have issues soon. Exception is if you use it exclusively in dry hot climate. Overall idea is great but solution is too diy and not automotive but as a lot of installations are very very diy I guess it’s ok.
These are not screw terminals.They look like it, but they are clamp terminals with torque settings. You do not need to crimp. The terminals do the crimping. They are unlike anything you have ever seen. The relay connectors are automotive types because they wanted to make it accessible to the most people, but they are an extremely high quality. Once in, the relays are tough to remove the connections are so tight. The components are unique. Designed by a German mechatronics engineer who worked for VW and Mercedes.
@@4xoverlandI understand that they are clamp terminals and being made by Weidmüller are no doubt the very high-end ones as they are in use in all kinds of industrial settings. My point is that all these types of systems are usually meant to work in relatively non vibration environments so there is a risk for them to come loose, hence most modern automotive systems don't use these types of connectors anymore. I am not stating that they are not adequate or suitable for this particular intended role at all. Just wondering if proper automotive connectors wouldn't be more suitable for this type of the system. Again, there is no intended criticism for this particular design just trying to pass my humble opinion. On the crimping side you of course can leave out ferrules, but this is again not good practice if you take industrial and automotive practices and Weidmüller own instructions lists all test and conformation data only with suitable ferrules and not as bare cables. On relay side I have no doubt that this solution works absolutely fine.
Ive had an egon hub for 2 years , and have thrown my car through so much vibration. Never once as a connection come loose. 😊
Egon It is an old German boy's name, and I was wondering why you use the name.
I don’t understand what this product does… I’m sure it’s great, but why would I ask my garage to use this over what they would otherwise do?
Because it will save you and them a lot of labour time, it is far more reliable than normal relay installations and has self diagnostics, which you garage cannot offer you.
I’m a fan of your videos and Heiner’s videos too. But these products make no sense to me. They seem to over-complicate rather than simplify, and designed to be on display rather than being easily concealed. But wish you every success.
They make complete sense to anyone doing DC installations and need little explanation. Its designed to be on display because it has fuses. One has to access it to run the wires, it has self diagnostic LEDs. Like any fuse box or item with serviceable components, it has to be easily accessible.
I have an overland rig that has been to 42 countries, with aux battery and engine bay mounted fusing and wiring. This is the usual stuff, like driving lights, compressor, interior lighting, fridge, inverter etc. I think I’ve replaced one fuse in 14 years, maybe two.. I never even think about it. Maybe I’ve been lucky. If electrical had been a nightmare, maybe I’d see the value.
Be nice if the connections were plug in.
Relays fail sooner or later. You could also use plug-in miniature relays with retaining clips.
How is this different from an sPOD? sPOD got rid of relays a long time ago. sPOD is MOSFET.
It is not transistor-based.
Mosfet's are no doubt a better solution, but in all fairness other than some additional current draw, reliability of modern mechanical relays isn't really going to be an issue. If you're hell bent on solid state, Hella do a SSR in a normal auto relay package that could be retrofitted. Where SSR's come into there own are PWM applications, like varying the speed of a water pump or the brightness of an LED light.
I’ll stick to the Tony Power Hub 👍👍. It’s still a nice idea Andrew 👍👍
Pay the money and have a quality auto elec use the existing spare relay and fuse locations in the oem boxes. Good, clean and no need to find somewhere to mount non IP rated things.
has Heiner cut his hair?
Simples😂...looks to be a great product
You should make it wf. Switch it on and of on your phone.
Check out the Aihasd Bluetooth Relay Modules
Will it work with my 70mm and 90mm multiple core DC vehicle cabling?
Yes. www.egon.com.au/relay-hub-instal/
I don't see anywhere where 70 or 90mm cable could terminate (as in winch wiring) unless I am missing something?
F...... brilliant.
Do you have an European distributor?
Yes. www.beartoughltd.com/
thanks@@4xoverland
Nice
Awesome
It would want to be a small flow air compressor to comply with the 25A limit! The ARB twin is about 65A and the TJM twin around 80A! :)
Did you ever get this patented?
Pointless. Defending a patent is so expensive, only multi-national companies can afford to do it.
@@4xoverland It very rarely gets that far. Normally it stops at the cease and desist letter.
So it’s not IP ratted, how do you mount it under a bonnet for spot lights. Or do you need to run longer cables into the cab which will create more current drop.
Automotive relays are usually sealed. As long as it's not salt water, it should be fine. This relay board costs 520 so I would definitely recommend make your own. 5 circuits is not difficult or timely as proclaimed.
voltage drop the result of current and resistance
You think this is just 5 relay circuits? It's not. But you make a good point. Make a cheap one without a board for about 50% of the retail price. How to do it: Figure out the wiring. Its 5 relays plus a power board with self diagnostics on all circuits. Figure that out. Find the connectors. There are lots like them on Amazon, but these are unlike anything found on the Internet anywhere. Clue: they are not made in China. Find a bracket that encloses and protects the entire unit. It can be done. If you have the time. A lot of time. And that is the point of it. Saves time by making complex things simple, minimises voltage drop (no hand-built system will come close to this) and its extremely efficient and robust.
@4xoverland it's mainly the cost that I have issue. I think your attitude is what can we charge people who don't understand electronic, not how can we make it as cheap as possible(at a good quality) and add our margin. Are you trying to improve the 4x4 space or make money?
I personally don't find electronics complicated, so a led that lights when a fuse blows doesn't mean much, and I know the cost is low to design and implement that. If it had 5 high power and 15 low power with manual switching and Bluetooth switching, shunts for current readouts, power usage records, and history, maybe it's worth more.
You still need to wire it in and have switching panels, etc, so there is more cost as well.
Cost isn’t an issue. If you want quality products they cost money. You can get switches cheap from Wish if you won’t want to spend money.
I am interested in practical applications. I don’t own a troop carrier or a Ute with a flat on the back.
So simplify my wiring is great. But where can it fit it. Currently all my electronics are in the inner gaurd as it’s the only space I have. I am re-building my car in the end of the year and this would be great but I cannot see an open circuit board working. I also don’t want a switch pro.