Just added a set of plans if you want to build one or two of these side tables! Option for getting all your lumber at the home center if that is what you want! www.diytyler.com/shop/farmhouse-side-tables/ Thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
I think I paid more attention to how organized and clean his shop is myself !!!!.. I definitely admire the man !!!.. But I'm almost 50 yrs old and if im not this organized by now... Ill never be !!!... Also admire how he knows the model # and all the info on each tool !!!.. Lord idk what's wrong with me !!!.. Lol... All jokes aside.. Nice job young man !!!.. 💪💥
Tyler, these tables are gorgeous! I love the style and I love how you were able to find some decent quality construction grade lumber to keep the cost down (makes it approachable for more people). Great content. Always happy to watch your videos.
Hey man, just want to say I love the content. Heard you mention you’re from around the Richmond area. I live out in Sterling Heights. Love to see Michigan guys like you and Jay doing all of this. I’m new into all this and I’ll offer a free coffee or two to pick your brain sometime. Thanks for the great videos.
Great video to watch. I first watched the S DeLand because to be honest, i have his tools not yours lol so i can make some changes that liked from yours and adapt to his with my average tools :)
If you had asked me 12 minutes ago what I thought about furniture that had a white base with a darker wood grain for the top, I would have said it was ugly. But man, those look great! I'm gonna have to try something with ash....
Dear Tyler CA glue works fore woodrepare a simpel wood glue in a injection spray would make a full repare. But stil a very nice build. looking foreward fore youre next build. :-)
You mentioned you got the 8/4 ash slabs locally in Richmond, Michigan. Is this a sawmill open to the public? Trying to find a better source for 1X stock than big box stores.
I would always try and keep your finish water based, would recommend general finishes high performance polyurethane or Varathane ultimate poly. If you want a cheaper sprayer, homeright makes an HVLP turbine that will lay down a decent finish. Thanks for watching!!
It is a hobby turned side business. I am out of the house at my "real" job all day this is an after the kids are in bed and weekend thing. You can make time!!
Nice tables, Tyler !! Dang !! It's been a while since you have "put down" any DIY Tyler Orange...I'm about to go into full blown withdrawal !!! lol -- just kidding !! :) Thanks for the video !
Love watching your channel and just noticed your using plywood as a riving knife on your table saw does it work fine and do you have a video of the making of it
I do have a video making this one. It's a splitter vs a riving knife, if I tilt the blade I need to put a different insert in. It works well for what it is! Thanks for watching John.
Great video! Here's a challenge for you though... what would you do for the top if you didn't have a good source for ash (or anything else good). Let's say you had to build this all from stuff at Home Depot. They sell oak and maple, but I don't think it's more than an inch thick. You could do pine, but that's not very durable. Thoughts?
With those sourcing limitations, I'd consider gluing up a 3/4" hardwood panel and then laminating it on top of a piece of 3/4" plywood, which would also help with any twisting or expansion. For the edge treatment, you could cut 1 1/2" strips from the hardwood stock and do a simple breadboard or edge strip effect (doing the side grain sides first, then the end grain sides) to hide the 'hardwood glued to plywood' edges. You could even dress this up a bit with visible dowel ends or splines of a contrasting wood color. A more complicated approach that would preserve the illusion of a solid top panel made from 1 1/2" boards, would involve attaching the side pieces with miter joints instead of the edge-strip look, so that the top is joined to the 1 1/2" tall side pieces around all 4 edges with near-invisible horizontal miter joints, which are also joined to each other at their ends with near-invisible vertical miters in each corner. You can cut and glue up the top hardwood panel to be a few inches wider and longer than the plywood panel and harvest these side pieces from its edges for grain matching. Since no solid board panel has side grain all the way around, you may want to make 'end grain sides' to attach to the 2 ends. Cut 2 strips that are 3/4" from each end, stack and glue them together so that the end grain shows, to simulate 1 1/2" board ends (you may need to slide or flip these strips before gluing them to each other to achieve a realistic-looking end grain pattern; or if you're going to stain the top, since stain absorbs differently into end grain anyway, you could even harvest the end grain pieces from a 1 1/2" board of a different species of wood). Then miter the tops and ends of these end grain pieces, and install them. Remember when cutting your final-dimension top from this oversized panel, because its edges will be mitered, that it needs to be 3/4" wider and longer than the plywood panel on its top surface, so that its bottom surface that's glued to the plywood is the same size. Also plan to make the oversized hardwood panel large enough so that you can harvest the side pieces, and cut a similar miter on their tops and ends. So you end up with a hardwood shell covering the top and sides of a plywood panel, that gives the appearance of 1 1/2" thick boards glued up into a panel. A bit more difficult than just doing breadboard sides, but IMO worth it. Good luck!
A challenge, nice one Nate! You could laminate some pieces of oak together to get the thickness that you want. Really I would do what you said and go with pine and just glue it together like I did this ash. Not as durable but will definitely hold up for quite some time, and then for that price you can replace it multiple times!
You mean a smaller HVLP sprayer? Airless is a whole different ball game, usually used for big latex jobs with no thinking. Fornl HVLP, a Homeright unit that has the turbine included in the tunnel get you a darn good finish. For airless, a graco all in one is a good unit. Can get cordless or corded versions. Hope that helps!!
hey Mickey, I think I will get to the plans today will put them on my website and email them out. We'll pin a comment on this video saying that they're available as well. Thanks for watching!
Yeah my bad! I know I set up the camera to take that shot but must not have hit the record button. Oops! Those were one long piece going diagonal, and then two smaller pieces on either side fastend in place with wood glue and CA glue. Thanks for watching guys!
@andrew three separate pieces. One long piece going all the way across, and then two small pieces on either side. Fastened in place with wood glue and CA glue.
Gregory, Yeah cutting to size was a pain in the neck, little shavings off at the mitre saw back and forth. Like you said not structural at all just for looks. Thanks for watching!
Hey. Thanks so much for sharing... A couple questions... since you’re painting the base, couldn’t you just use 3/4” mdf or cabinet grade plywood? Lately, ALL of the 1x8s, 1x10s, etc at the big box stores are so cupped, they’re almost impossible to use for anything other than really rustic looking builds. Also, what type of 1/4” sheet goods are you using? Thanks again
Tyler, great build. Like you, I'm a big user of SW Kem Aqua Plus -- i've used it for kitchen and laundry cabinets and a few furniture pieces as well. I have a Graco HVLP setup similar to your Fuji. One issue I always have with using Kem Aqua is all the initial grain raising that occurs after the first coat of primer goes down (I realize since it's water-based that raising is going to happen, but I feel like i have to do an awful lot of sanding to smooth out the surface to an acceptable level before the next coat. I mention this because I am always reluctant to assemble the whole piece and then spray it because it can be such a pain to sand in tight areas like interior corners or like the farmhouse X's on your tables. Do you have this problem too or have you gotten around it somehow? Please let me know! thanks
Carl, I agree...serious grain raising with the first coat of surfacer. I have not found a way around it just sand away, usually with 220. I would like to try a tinted lacquer from general finishes at some point, it's just pretty handy to walk into SW. Although, not all SW can mix the colors I have used before. SW has a new lacquer called Hydroplus, I have not used it but might be worth a try? Thanks for watching Carl!
@@DIYTyler Thanks for the quick reply. Sounds like our experiences are similar. I haven't tried Hydroplus, although if it's water-based I expect it would still cause grain raising. SW also has a line of solvent-based tinted lacquers that I haven't tried but I might go that direction -- they wouldn't raise the grain obviously, but also they dry and cure with an even harder and more durable finish (according to the guys at SW I spoke with).
I noticed a lot of the orange tools' logos were covered up. Was there an issue with a previous sponsor? I'm curious since I've been standardizing my shop on their cordless and some of their air tools.
I think you should make your videos longer and explain more processes. My opinion of coarse, I see way to many content makers for woodworking skip way too much. Then explaining real fast over the short one. Maybe you should make the long video and make a shortened one for a quick view. Basically that is what I would call this video. I would allow your subscribers, and maybe future subscriber be able to see a longer video that explains it all.
Michael, thanks for the feedback. Being on the producing end of things and seeing statistics, longer form videos simply don't work on my channel. I have had aspirations of making longer form videos and hosting them somewhere else with access via a membership but it seems like my channel has been disconnected from the fan base recently and don't think that anyone would subscribe to a membership. Not sure if that is a me problem or a RUclips problem. Still trying to figure it out but for now this is the type of video that seems to be worth the effort to produce. Thanks for watching all the same.
@@DIYTyler I guess so. I got so confused. Love the way the side tables came out. How did you attach the x braces at the base? It didn't make it into the video or I missed it.
@@DIYTyler I caught the pop up but it was barely a split second. If we where supposed to be able to read it, I think it should be there at least long enough for it to read.
Funny, I totally missed that! I know I had the camera setup to shoot they part but I must not have hit the record button. Oops! Have a similar table coming out in a fee weeks, will make sure I get it in that one. It was just wood and CA glue.
Yup....you missed the milisecond popup! My mistake but I was already hours of work beyond that before I realized. You guys were supposed to rewind multiple times to catch the pop up!
I don't understand why you would put in the time money and effort to build a table that looks like it's from Ikea at ikea quality. With that shop you could build an actual shaker table, in the same or less time that also looks like real furniture.
@@DIYTyler I know it comes off as kind of a shot, but I really don't understand why you would make a one off table like that. If you were mass producing them it would make sense. I just keep seeing guys that clearly have the shop and ability to produce heirloom quality furniture doing work that is fine instead of great.
Just added a set of plans if you want to build one or two of these side tables! Option for getting all your lumber at the home center if that is what you want!
www.diytyler.com/shop/farmhouse-side-tables/
Thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
thank you 😙 you are the best
So glad I found you! Have a blessed day.
I realize it is quite randomly asking but do anyone know of a good place to stream new tv shows online?
What router tools did you use including the accessories and bit
I really enjoyed watching you build the table and especially like watching the kiddos help.
Thanks Doug!
They look great.
Great video
Very nice Tyler and again the kids are in the picture.
Thanks Dave! We are trying to make a point to include them more, they are a hit.
Great job on the table. And the thought and planning that you put into your shop layout is amazing!!
I think I paid more attention to how organized and clean his shop is myself !!!!.. I definitely admire the man !!!.. But I'm almost 50 yrs old and if im not this organized by now... Ill never be !!!... Also admire how he knows the model # and all the info on each tool !!!.. Lord idk what's wrong with me !!!.. Lol... All jokes aside.. Nice job young man !!!.. 💪💥
Enjoy the videos, I always learn multiple things..thanks
Man buddy that came out nice ! Greetings from Arizona 🌵 🌞
Thanks 👍
Great project. You’re right about the top. Looks smooth as glass
Beautiful finish, am a big fan of that combination! Thanks for watching Gary!
Tyler, these tables are gorgeous! I love the style and I love how you were able to find some decent quality construction grade lumber to keep the cost down (makes it approachable for more people). Great content. Always happy to watch your videos.
Nice Work!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thank you!
I have the Kreg draw slide jigs and just learned how to use them. Awesome sauce thank you sir.
The kreg slides are pretty handy, I like them.
Ann Arbor, Michigan here....nice tables!
Nice....good day yesterday!! Thanks for watching!🧡
Tyler G yes it was finally....holding my breath for OSU
Nice job Tyler.
Thanks Rob!
Very nice.
Nice tables! They look great in the living room.
And good to see the kids helping!
Thanks Beth!!
Subscription and like, sir.
Fireplace decoration convinced me.
Thanks!!!
Looks great Tyler
Thanks Dave!
Nice looking tables, man! Anyone else concerned about spraying finishes with a fire blazing 10 feet away? 💥🔥🏠
Beauty if water based finishes. Can spray directly into the fire and it would do nothing! Oil based= boom. Thanks for watching!
He said water based....water doesn’t burn
There was some confusion in the oil based/water based stain being used. And my man, Tyler already corrected me. 🙂
Hey man, just want to say I love the content. Heard you mention you’re from around the Richmond area. I live out in Sterling Heights. Love to see Michigan guys like you and Jay doing all of this. I’m new into all this and I’ll offer a free coffee or two to pick your brain sometime. Thanks for the great videos.
Great job, Tyler - came out great! Your finishing is always on point.
Thanks man, really happy with these!!
Great job Tyler, the table came out great!
Thanks for the video.
DC
Thanks Dan! I appreciate you taking the time to watch. 🧡
Nice video
Those side tables look great, awesome job Tyler! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
Thanks Fred!!
Mortise & tenon🌲🌳
Looks good sir! Good job. Going to use something like it for nightstands.
Perfect design for that!🧡 Thanks for watching!
Wow I love your channel just subscriber I have never seen your videos before I started my woodworking channel cheap up the good work 🙂
Thanks for watching Ray and best of luck with your channel! Don't let the comments get your down, easy to say...hard to live by.
Beautiful table. I'd be afraid to spray beside the fire though, lol.
Water based finish!👍🏻 Wouldnt spray oil like that!!
Bravo complimenti
Awesome video, Brother!
Thank you Ray!
Awesome project! I really like the design. Nice spray job as well 👍
Thanks Wes, best finish I have laid down...very proud of that! Thanks for watching!
Great job!!
Thanks!!
Another great project. Beautiful work!
Thanks man!
Great video to watch. I first watched the S DeLand because to be honest, i have his tools not yours lol so i can make some changes that liked from yours and adapt to his with my average tools :)
Great job. I use a biscuit joiner to cut those slots for the z fasteners. Makes it pretty quick and simple.
That's exactly how I would go about cutting those slots if I had a biscuit jointer!
Beautiful job bro 🤘👍I whish i had all the tools 👏
These are great!
Love it
Thanks Craig!
beautiful 👍👏👏👏👏👏
Thanks Geovanni!
Lumber, lumber, Lumberjack !!! 👍👍👍👍. 👏👏👏👏. 😁😁😁😁
What a great video. Subbed easily 👍
Thanks Steven, glad you enjoyed the video!
Great work on the side tables Tyler! they really look nice :) Thank you for sharing the video with us.👌👍😎JP
Thanks JP, we are super happy with the results!
Your very welcome Tyler! :) Have a great Sunday!😎
Going to make this today. And I sub too. 👍
If you had asked me 12 minutes ago what I thought about furniture that had a white base with a darker wood grain for the top, I would have said it was ugly. But man, those look great! I'm gonna have to try something with ash....
That is a very flattering comment Braden! Thanks for watching!
beautyfull tables
Dear Tyler CA glue works fore woodrepare a simpel wood glue in a injection spray would make a full repare. But stil a very nice build. looking foreward fore youre next build. :-)
Absolutely awesome. Thanks for the video! Did you use an oil based stain or water based stain?
Thanks Chris! Water based stain, highly recommend the stuff
You mentioned you got the 8/4 ash slabs locally in Richmond, Michigan. Is this a sawmill open to the public? Trying to find a better source for 1X stock than big box stores.
Great job..Tyler!
Any recommendations for those of us without the monster spray gun set up you have??
I've used Wipe on Poly to great success :)
I would always try and keep your finish water based, would recommend general finishes high performance polyurethane or Varathane ultimate poly. If you want a cheaper sprayer, homeright makes an HVLP turbine that will lay down a decent finish. Thanks for watching!!
muy buen trabajo, saludos
The sanding sealer I can get is shellac alchol based. I would think it would be dangerous around an open flame.
Yeah don't spray that with a fire around or a regular fan. This is water based sanding sealer....good stuff. Thanks for watching!
Loving how those turned out man. Definitely picking up the plans to support what you got going on!
Appreciate that Jon! People like you are what keep the channel going and we appreciate you!
Great job! Do you do woodworking for job or hobby ? I wish I had your time and equipment!
It is a hobby turned side business. I am out of the house at my "real" job all day this is an after the kids are in bed and weekend thing.
You can make time!!
Representing Michigan! I like it! I am not too far from Richmond, would love to know your local lumber source.
Nice tables, Tyler !!
Dang !! It's been a while since you have "put down" any DIY Tyler Orange...I'm about to go into full blown withdrawal !!! lol -- just kidding !! :)
Thanks for the video !
Oh I got some coming for you Dave! Hang tight!!
:)
Love watching your channel and just noticed your using plywood as a riving knife on your table saw does it work fine and do you have a video of the making of it
I do have a video making this one. It's a splitter vs a riving knife, if I tilt the blade I need to put a different insert in. It works well for what it is! Thanks for watching John.
Awesome work!!!! When will the plan be available?
I will probably get around to them today. Will upload them on the website and add a pinned comment to this video. Thanks for watching!
What size and thickness plywood did you use for the faux style drawer?
Where did you get your edge guide for the Ridgid trim router?
Great video! Here's a challenge for you though... what would you do for the top if you didn't have a good source for ash (or anything else good). Let's say you had to build this all from stuff at Home Depot. They sell oak and maple, but I don't think it's more than an inch thick. You could do pine, but that's not very durable. Thoughts?
With those sourcing limitations, I'd consider gluing up a 3/4" hardwood panel and then laminating it on top of a piece of 3/4" plywood, which would also help with any twisting or expansion. For the edge treatment, you could cut 1 1/2" strips from the hardwood stock and do a simple breadboard or edge strip effect (doing the side grain sides first, then the end grain sides) to hide the 'hardwood glued to plywood' edges. You could even dress this up a bit with visible dowel ends or splines of a contrasting wood color.
A more complicated approach that would preserve the illusion of a solid top panel made from 1 1/2" boards, would involve attaching the side pieces with miter joints instead of the edge-strip look, so that the top is joined to the 1 1/2" tall side pieces around all 4 edges with near-invisible horizontal miter joints, which are also joined to each other at their ends with near-invisible vertical miters in each corner. You can cut and glue up the top hardwood panel to be a few inches wider and longer than the plywood panel and harvest these side pieces from its edges for grain matching.
Since no solid board panel has side grain all the way around, you may want to make 'end grain sides' to attach to the 2 ends. Cut 2 strips that are 3/4" from each end, stack and glue them together so that the end grain shows, to simulate 1 1/2" board ends (you may need to slide or flip these strips before gluing them to each other to achieve a realistic-looking end grain pattern; or if you're going to stain the top, since stain absorbs differently into end grain anyway, you could even harvest the end grain pieces from a 1 1/2" board of a different species of wood). Then miter the tops and ends of these end grain pieces, and install them.
Remember when cutting your final-dimension top from this oversized panel, because its edges will be mitered, that it needs to be 3/4" wider and longer than the plywood panel on its top surface, so that its bottom surface that's glued to the plywood is the same size. Also plan to make the oversized hardwood panel large enough so that you can harvest the side pieces, and cut a similar miter on their tops and ends.
So you end up with a hardwood shell covering the top and sides of a plywood panel, that gives the appearance of 1 1/2" thick boards glued up into a panel. A bit more difficult than just doing breadboard sides, but IMO worth it.
Good luck!
A challenge, nice one Nate! You could laminate some pieces of oak together to get the thickness that you want.
Really I would do what you said and go with pine and just glue it together like I did this ash. Not as durable but will definitely hold up for quite some time, and then for that price you can replace it multiple times!
Man, looks so good! Nice job. I love your Fuji sprayer set up but don't have the room for that. Is there airless sprayer you would recommend?
You mean a smaller HVLP sprayer? Airless is a whole different ball game, usually used for big latex jobs with no thinking.
Fornl HVLP, a Homeright unit that has the turbine included in the tunnel get you a darn good finish.
For airless, a graco all in one is a good unit. Can get cordless or corded versions.
Hope that helps!!
What type of paint do you recommend to paint using a spray gun? So that the surface is smooth to the touch.
Hey Tyler, will you be making plans available for these? Nice, straight forward project!
hey Mickey, I think I will get to the plans today will put them on my website and email them out. We'll pin a comment on this video saying that they're available as well. Thanks for watching!
@Tyler G Can you please provide a link to the gun and cup you are using?
Love, love, love!!
Thanks Mitzi, glad you like the video!
The X cross detail is missing. How did you attach it to the frame ?
I'm needing to make something similar and was wondering as well. Are they separate pieces? Half-lap joint?
Probably glue. Its not really structural, the table works without it. Cutting to the right size is the issue.
Yeah my bad! I know I set up the camera to take that shot but must not have hit the record button. Oops!
Those were one long piece going diagonal, and then two smaller pieces on either side fastend in place with wood glue and CA glue. Thanks for watching guys!
@andrew three separate pieces. One long piece going all the way across, and then two small pieces on either side. Fastened in place with wood glue and CA glue.
Gregory, Yeah cutting to size was a pain in the neck, little shavings off at the mitre saw back and forth. Like you said not structural at all just for looks. Thanks for watching!
Hey. Thanks so much for sharing...
A couple questions... since you’re painting the base, couldn’t you just use 3/4” mdf or cabinet grade plywood?
Lately, ALL of the 1x8s, 1x10s, etc at the big box stores are so cupped, they’re almost impossible to use for anything other than really rustic looking builds.
Also, what type of 1/4” sheet goods are you using?
Thanks again
Tyler, great build. Like you, I'm a big user of SW Kem Aqua Plus -- i've used it for kitchen and laundry cabinets and a few furniture pieces as well. I have a Graco HVLP setup similar to your Fuji. One issue I always have with using Kem Aqua is all the initial grain raising that occurs after the first coat of primer goes down (I realize since it's water-based that raising is going to happen, but I feel like i have to do an awful lot of sanding to smooth out the surface to an acceptable level before the next coat. I mention this because I am always reluctant to assemble the whole piece and then spray it because it can be such a pain to sand in tight areas like interior corners or like the farmhouse X's on your tables. Do you have this problem too or have you gotten around it somehow? Please let me know! thanks
Carl, I agree...serious grain raising with the first coat of surfacer. I have not found a way around it just sand away, usually with 220. I would like to try a tinted lacquer from general finishes at some point, it's just pretty handy to walk into SW. Although, not all SW can mix the colors I have used before.
SW has a new lacquer called Hydroplus, I have not used it but might be worth a try?
Thanks for watching Carl!
@@DIYTyler Thanks for the quick reply. Sounds like our experiences are similar. I haven't tried Hydroplus, although if it's water-based I expect it would still cause grain raising. SW also has a line of solvent-based tinted lacquers that I haven't tried but I might go that direction -- they wouldn't raise the grain obviously, but also they dry and cure with an even harder and more durable finish (according to the guys at SW I spoke with).
lindo trabajo. pero no se ve como le pone las maderas q forman una X en los laterales!
What makes a table stable?
What did you use to spray the base?
Sherwin Williams Kem Aqua Plus. Thanks for watching Cameron!
I noticed a lot of the orange tools' logos were covered up. Was there an issue with a previous sponsor? I'm curious since I've been standardizing my shop on their cordless and some of their air tools.
No issue at all, still love the tools and recommend them they just dropped off as a sponsor. Business is business. Thanks for watching Preston!
@@DIYTyler, thanks. I thought it may have been something like that. Great video as always.
класс!!!
What kind of bandsaw you have?
It's a Laguna 14|12. Nice machine, only complained is the door kinda gets in the way when trying to change the blade. Not a big deal though.
@@DIYTyler thank looking to upgrade my bandsaw, how much do you charge for these tables usually?
رررروعه عمل جميل
חבל על הדיבורים יותר טוב העבודה והתרשים אם כל המשתמעה מכך ליצירת העבודה היפה לבסוף . וזה יותר טוב מכמות הדיבורים . בהצלחה ועבודה נעימה
Так кто же сделал мебель?!))) Вы или дети?!)))
What does 8 quarter mean ?
Clayton Beaver In would terms 2 inches when talking wood they go by quarters and not inches
@@bigwillysgarage2301 thanx wasn't to sure I'm new to woodworking
Yup we are odd and go by 1/4 inches for some reason, not sure why, so 8/4 is 2 inches. Thanks for watching.....and paying attention!!
@BigWilly thanks for the assist!!
$2.00
I confused at 8:53. 🤔
Watch again and catch the pop-up, I messed up in the voice over but didn't catch it until a few more hours of work was done. Thanks for watching!
@@DIYTyler 👍
I think you should make your videos longer and explain more processes. My opinion of coarse, I see way to many content makers for woodworking skip way too much. Then explaining real fast over the short one. Maybe you should make the long video and make a shortened one for a quick view. Basically that is what I would call this video. I would allow your subscribers, and maybe future subscriber be able to see a longer video that explains it all.
Michael, thanks for the feedback. Being on the producing end of things and seeing statistics, longer form videos simply don't work on my channel. I have had aspirations of making longer form videos and hosting them somewhere else with access via a membership but it seems like my channel has been disconnected from the fan base recently and don't think that anyone would subscribe to a membership. Not sure if that is a me problem or a RUclips problem.
Still trying to figure it out but for now this is the type of video that seems to be worth the effort to produce. Thanks for watching all the same.
What? Wait a minute. How is waterbased stain better than waterbased stain? I'm more confused now.
You missed the poppup!
@@DIYTyler I guess so. I got so confused. Love the way the side tables came out. How did you attach the x braces at the base? It didn't make it into the video or I missed it.
@@DIYTyler I caught the pop up but it was barely a split second. If we where supposed to be able to read it, I think it should be there at least long enough for it to read.
But the more you guys rewind to try and catch it the better for the video watch time!! It's all how you play the game man!!
Funny, I totally missed that! I know I had the camera setup to shoot they part but I must not have hit the record button. Oops! Have a similar table coming out in a fee weeks, will make sure I get it in that one. It was just wood and CA glue.
Hello, how are you?
Send to Brazil t- shirts and hat?
For sure we do....check out the Merch page! You can be the Internationale DIYTyler representative!
I think you said "water" when you meant to say "oil" at least once.
Yup....you missed the milisecond popup! My mistake but I was already hours of work beyond that before I realized. You guys were supposed to rewind multiple times to catch the pop up!
You must be your wife's favorite man!
Totally.
I don't understand why you would put in the time money and effort to build a table that looks like it's from Ikea at ikea quality. With that shop you could build an actual shaker table, in the same or less time that also looks like real furniture.
Whatever you say.
@@DIYTyler I know it comes off as kind of a shot, but I really don't understand why you would make a one off table like that. If you were mass producing them it would make sense. I just keep seeing guys that clearly have the shop and ability to produce heirloom quality furniture doing work that is fine instead of great.
I hate pocket holes! Learn some basic joinery!
Love it