Great work :-) Our Community in the book (of faces), are looking forward to the full series and following you :-) The Book Group -- DLG / HLG COMMUNITY for Newbies, Starters & Kids
Very nice center joint work! Your hinge lines arrangement are very interesting that you take the peel ply (or any hinge material) onto the wing's top surfaces. I haven't tried this yet.
thank you my friend. My thought was to keep the top surface of the wing as smooth as possible for best airflow and lift, the bottom can suffer a bit, but that's slower airflow anyways. I know traditionally it's hinged on the bottom, but I'm trying this out to see how it works out. I think I have enough down travel for effective landing mode, it's around 40 degrees. Thank you for watching! :)
Tip: When making deeper cut through foam to the hingeline material.. (10:50mark) Before you cut with your snap off blade. rub the tip over a sanding block to blunt the very tip a little. Just to knock of the point. Now when you press down and cut slowly you are not scoring into the hing material with this cut.
Wow what a GREAT series my question is 1. do you really need reinforcement of the leading edge? and 2. where do you get your materials from (mylar, carbon fiber/glass) 3. why did you sand off the melted foam when you cut it with the hot wire, wouldn't it be better to leave it on for strength?
Hi! Glad you like the series. #1: the leading edge need that tow not only to make it stronger, but combined with the wing spars, it creates a vague "D box" for overall rigidity. #2: you can get the .75/oz F.G. on Amazon or, Ali express. Same for the CF, Ali express. Mylars I used for the wing were purchased through Eplastics.com . I've used other materials, as long as you apply lots of release wax. #3: that "skin" left by the wire cut needs to be sanded for a consistent finish to promote a consistent epoxy resin bond.
Believe it or not, instead of spray glue you can stick your strip to packing tape to hold its shape. Wet it out on the bench, then stic it to your wing with wider packing tape. The tape is your built in mylar then and after cure, it’ll peel right off. Easy peezy.
@@amonus-air2160 Another problem with the top hinge is that for the hinge to work unrestricted you need a level surface. The bottom side of the wing is level but the top side of the wing curves downwards as it progresses to the wing tip, especially with a 4 part wing panel.
Another great "show and tell", of how this excellent 1M model is coming together. Thanks for this and looking forward to the next one.
Many thanks!
Excellent tip on using the split Mylars when finishing the center section joints. I will try it on my next build.
Great 👍...thanks for watching
Great work :-) Our Community in the book (of faces), are looking forward to the full series and following you :-) The Book Group -- DLG / HLG COMMUNITY for Newbies, Starters & Kids
Awesome, thank you!
Very nice job! I like the hinge line fix and the "peace" at the end of your videos
thanks my friend. I was thinking of a smooth airflow over the top wing surface for better lift. I'll be changing to more traditional hinge next time.
Very nice center joint work! Your hinge lines arrangement are very interesting that you take the peel ply (or any hinge material) onto the wing's top surfaces. I haven't tried this yet.
thank you my friend. My thought was to keep the top surface of the wing as smooth as possible for best airflow and lift, the bottom can suffer a bit, but that's slower airflow anyways. I know traditionally it's hinged on the bottom, but I'm trying this out to see how it works out. I think I have enough down travel for effective landing mode, it's around 40 degrees.
Thank you for watching! :)
@@amonus-air2160 Awesome idea, thank you! Very nice work, I wonder how it can work!
look at it this way, my friend. I'll have the world's best dlg for inverted flight...lol
@@amonus-air2160 I remember that I made my first DLG with flaps on this way. I used packing tape covering and hinges at the wings too. It was good.
great 👍
J'adore votre série de vidéos ça m'a décidé à me lancer
enjoy the journey :)
Tip: When making deeper cut through foam to the hingeline material.. (10:50mark) Before you cut with your snap off blade. rub the tip over a sanding block to blunt the very tip a little. Just to knock of the point. Now when you press down and cut slowly you are not scoring into the hing material with this cut.
Thank you for the excellent advice. I'll remember that for sure! 😎👍
Hi, very nice and instructive videos, really well done!!!
Wow haven’t seen a Yellow Pages in a long time
Lol..
my viewers get only the best in historical artifacts 😎👌
Wow what a GREAT series my question is 1. do you really need reinforcement of the leading edge? and 2. where do you get your materials from (mylar, carbon fiber/glass) 3. why did you sand off the melted foam when you cut it with the hot wire, wouldn't it be better to leave it on for strength?
Hi! Glad you like the series.
#1: the leading edge need that tow not only to make it stronger, but combined with the wing spars, it creates a vague "D box" for overall rigidity.
#2: you can get the .75/oz F.G. on Amazon or, Ali express. Same for the CF, Ali express. Mylars I used for the wing were purchased through Eplastics.com . I've used other materials, as long as you apply lots of release wax.
#3: that "skin" left by the wire cut needs to be sanded for a consistent finish to promote a consistent epoxy resin bond.
Believe it or not, instead of spray glue you can stick your strip to packing tape to hold its shape. Wet it out on the bench, then stic it to your wing with wider packing tape. The tape is your built in mylar then and after cure, it’ll peel right off. Easy peezy.
interesting, thanks for the input! :)
After thinking about it, I don't think I could get the same finish using tape, but thanks!
I haver never seen DLG aileron cut at the below part! IT is on the upper part Always.
that's correct, but I wanted to see if it will improve airflow over the top surface
@@amonus-air2160 Another problem with the top hinge is that for the hinge to work unrestricted you need a level surface. The bottom side of the wing is level but the top side of the wing curves downwards as it progresses to the wing tip, especially with a 4 part wing panel.
made a boo boo....lol
@@afilos yes, I'm regretting my decision on that. Guess it's going to be a lesson never forgotten....lol. Thanks for you input, it helps. :)
@@amonus-air2160 😂I've made a lot of those too.
Gloves.... cancer...
yes