Great video, Still would like to hear more about why people are not recommending drilled and slotted rotors. I thought that was a must for road course cars.
Dez Ford so I think for an all out race car you are correct. Drilled and slotted rotors should dissipate heat better. If you are on more of a budget I think money is better spent on pads meaning street car pads with race car rotors will result in worse on track performance than a basic rotor and race spec pad.
Watched your video on the MM Full Length Sub Frame connectors. I’m getting mine installed today actually so I’m excited to see the difference! I saw in the video you talked about the steering and steering wheel. Dude get an aftermarket one you won’t regret it! I do autocross in my 97 and got the Ford Racing Sparco wheel (install video on my channel, get the back plate from john smith racing) and it made a huge difference in feel! I feel more in control of the car now. I also just replaced the steering shaft with the MM one that eliminates the rag joint. It got rid of all the play in the steering wheel! There’s absolutely no play and it feels like a new car, i had almost an inch of play before i replaced that. I also replaced the steering rack bushings with poly ones and replaced inner and outer tie rods on both sides. Car feels so much better now! I want to get the MM panhard bar too I watched your video on that. Looks like it was a pretty long install but I heard it makes a big difference. Have you tracked the car since those mods?
I'll add a few thing to your checklist that most people leave out. Check your wheel bearings and hubs. Increased stress of high grip tires really takes it toll on old metal. 200tw tires of today can have more grip that R compounds of days gone by. Also clean and check your wheels for cracks. All wheels have a fatigue life especially after track days.
Andrew Cowden good points. I have a whiteboard in my house to track my progress and i had listed checking bushings, joints, etc. but left it out in the video. I recently found my tailpipe can rub on my tire under hard cornering. It is minor but i wouldn’t have been able to address it if i wasn’t closely looking over the car. Thanks for watching!
@@truckandroll989 I have a printable checklist that I for track day prep. Keeps me from forgetting what I've done in the past. I even keep them in a clip board for a little while to look back at extra items I might have reviewed
hey man what's the benefit of bleeding with a second person, rather than self bleeding? I've read that you can use hose and empty bottle to do it on your own
I have used some of the more economical self bleeders before (i.e. MityVac) which allow you to bleed by yourself. It seemed to work OK on small systems (i.e. hydraulic clutch). However, I've always found the process goes faster and you remove air bubbles/old fluid quicker with a helper. Whenever I have an extra set of hands I prefer to have someone pump the brakes/clutch. With that being said they do make much more expensive automatic bleeding systems which seem to work very well but they cost more.
I replace my brake because they were squeaking and I put new one but they still squeak and I see some line on the rotors that the breaks where not breaking evenly do you thing I need to replace the rotors too
Great video, Still would like to hear more about why people are not recommending drilled and slotted rotors. I thought that was a must for road course cars.
Dez Ford so I think for an all out race car you are correct. Drilled and slotted rotors should dissipate heat better. If you are on more of a budget I think money is better spent on pads meaning street car pads with race car rotors will result in worse on track performance than a basic rotor and race spec pad.
I had the same issue with my brakes. I couldn’t do what they wanted but i did my best and haven’t had an issue since and that was 2 years ago
Watched your video on the MM Full Length Sub Frame connectors. I’m getting mine installed today actually so I’m excited to see the difference!
I saw in the video you talked about the steering and steering wheel. Dude get an aftermarket one you won’t regret it! I do autocross in my 97 and got the Ford Racing Sparco wheel (install video on my channel, get the back plate from john smith racing) and it made a huge difference in feel! I feel more in control of the car now. I also just replaced the steering shaft with the MM one that eliminates the rag joint. It got rid of all the play in the steering wheel! There’s absolutely no play and it feels like a new car, i had almost an inch of play before i replaced that. I also replaced the steering rack bushings with poly ones and replaced inner and outer tie rods on both sides. Car feels so much better now!
I want to get the MM panhard bar too I watched your video on that. Looks like it was a pretty long install but I heard it makes a big difference. Have you tracked the car since those mods?
I'll add a few thing to your checklist that most people leave out. Check your wheel bearings and hubs. Increased stress of high grip tires really takes it toll on old metal. 200tw tires of today can have more grip that R compounds of days gone by. Also clean and check your wheels for cracks. All wheels have a fatigue life especially after track days.
Andrew Cowden good points. I have a whiteboard in my house to track my progress and i had listed checking bushings, joints, etc. but left it out in the video. I recently found my tailpipe can rub on my tire under hard cornering. It is minor but i wouldn’t have been able to address it if i wasn’t closely looking over the car. Thanks for watching!
@@truckandroll989 I have a printable checklist that I for track day prep. Keeps me from forgetting what I've done in the past. I even keep them in a clip board for a little while to look back at extra items I might have reviewed
hey man what's the benefit of bleeding with a second person, rather than self bleeding? I've read that you can use hose and empty bottle to do it on your own
I have used some of the more economical self bleeders before (i.e. MityVac) which allow you to bleed by yourself. It seemed to work OK on small systems (i.e. hydraulic clutch). However, I've always found the process goes faster and you remove air bubbles/old fluid quicker with a helper. Whenever I have an extra set of hands I prefer to have someone pump the brakes/clutch. With that being said they do make much more expensive automatic bleeding systems which seem to work very well but they cost more.
Done that already! Good vid
You should use a calculator online to figure out your tire pressures after putting different from oem tires on
I replace my brake because they were squeaking and I put new one but they still squeak and I see some line on the rotors that the breaks where not breaking evenly do you thing I need to replace the rotors too
You can have a shop turn down your rotors to make them flat again and avoid buying new