Change your Mazda3 Rear Shock Absorber and Broken Mount
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- Опубликовано: 18 апр 2017
- Mark shows you how to change the rear shock absorber and mount that often rusts out and fail on the rear of Mazda3's and Ford Escapes. This is a very common problem on these vehicles as they get older and can be very expensive unless you do it yourself
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Hi there carquestions, I can't thank you enough for this video.
I own a 2012 Mazda 3 sitting at around 285k, just discovered yesterday getting on the highway that my shock mount was shattered, the shock was banging around in there, completely loose, making a hell of a racket.
As soon as I discovered the source of the noise, I looked it up and found your video, I'm glad I found it. Your video is clear, comprehensive, and straight to the point.
I am by no means a car guy, watching your video, I decided I can absolutely do this myself. It's really just one more small step from swapping a tire.
I didn't have the exact right tools for the job, I only have a regular jack and jack stand, I had some trouble getting a long enough ratchet under the car to crack the shock bolt at the wheel, I had to risk damaging one of my shorter ratchets by hammering on the handle to crack the bolt, but luckily it did end up working. I torqued it as best as I could under there, turning a single click at a time with my torque wrench, I think it's good and snug for now, but I will have to borrow a family member's ramp to get my car higher and properly torque and add locktite again.
I had some difficulty getting the nut off the end of the shock to remove the broken mount, I did not buy a set of vise grips, it would have been the easiest way as you had done it, but I managed to get by with two adjustable wrenches, one on the flats of the shaft and one on the nut.
I am very proud of myself, I feel great having done my first real repair on my car, I have previously only gone as far as swapping tires every season, so this is really exciting for me, I feel significantly more capable with how well this went.
Thank you again, your work is immensely appreciated.
Love that - Well done Dan! - keep on fixin - Cheers from Canada!
Very lucky I found this video. This situation happened to me today! Called the local dealership and other garages but unable to make an appointment since it's winter tire installation season! Searched online, and this was the first result. Went through the other comments here - found out that the part is on NAPA's website. Ordered it, will pick it up and hope to have it installed this evening (Probably should have ordered two and do preventative maintenance on the other side)!
I'm sure you've saved me a pile of money, as well as a ton of frustration! Thanks so much!
I heard a knock last night on my way to work and I've been stressing all through my shift as to what it could be, how much it would cost me, etc. I'm so relieved that it isn't only a cheap fix, but quick and easy as well! This is a great video, it's really well put together by somebody who knows what they're talking about! Thanks for sharing your expertise it's taken a huge weight off of me today!
Mine just broke tonight. Gonna fix it tomorrow. Fortunately mine isn't nearly as rusty as the one in this video.
I had the same issue on my 08 Mazda 5. With the car on jack stands high enough I was able to get at the top shock mount without removing the lower shock mount nut. There was enough clearance to vice grip the tip of the shock rod and use a 13mm wrench to remove the nut while the lower bolt was still on. Just sharing the tip in case someone finds it useful.
thanks - good info!
Yeah the mazda 5 is 13 mm. I had th drill out the bolts from the top cut one of em snapped
@@capacitiveguitarresistance This has just happened to me but can I hell get through the top it has a coin size thick plate over the part where the bolt needs to go through and its took over three steel drill bits and blunted them down to nothing I just don't understand it
@@spence-online-solutions1405 I actually moved mine over and had to come in at an angle and force the bolt through because of that plate. I dont know what that is made of but it is crazy strong.
I found this helpful. Thank you my dude
Hi, I am writing you again two years after, changed yesterday another rear shock mount on our Mazda 3 2010, right-hand side this time. As in a Mazda service manual found on the Net, here are some torquing figure : 22-28 N.m for the upper shock mount bolts [12mm hex head X 8mm diam X 1,25 thread] ; 79-105 N.m for the lower shock bolt [17mm hex head]. Thanks again Mark for your well done informative video!
Thanks Jean - more info for everyone - cheerrs and keep fixin!
This just snapped on me today, and this video was not only the first result but the exact answer I needed! Thank you!
Anytime Kamil - check the other side btw
Thanks so much for this walkthrough. It is very straightforward and informative. I was able
to fix this after spending 40$ on two mounts and 5$ on fasteners. Saved me probably hundreds on mechanic fees. Great video!
Anytime Ben
Thank you for the video. I live in Minnesota and mine just snapped today at 106k miles. $17 later and it should be good as new.
I had just stumbled across your video lastnight since that I was having a loud noise in the rear of my Mazda 3 that had just started. It sounds like metal balls. I took all the carpet, everything out of the trunk and the noise was still there. This morning I went and looked in the back, passenger suspension. I tugged on the strut, it moved a little. Tugged on it some more and it moved a lot. Thanks for showing me how to change something that is so simple to do but the noise in the rear, inside of the car was terrifying. It’s much appreciated. Thanks!
Anytime Mr Red - - let me know how you make out - Cheers from Canada
@@carquestions I will bud. If everything goes as planned it should be all fixed with new parts, drivers side too by Friday afternoon.
Just an FYI for anyone that this happens to anyone else. If you happen to phone the dealership to see how much it will cost. It will be $170CDN for the whole assembly, They won’t sell you just the Mount by itself.
Absolutely wonderfully done! Thank you! I'll be getting my daughter to do this to her car and what a great confidence builder for her, beyond well done tutorial!
Anytime Terry - your welcome - cheers!
I appreciate your car wisdom. Especially your suggestion to winter coat your car, for cold temperature areas. Like Wisconsin 🥶
Thanks Nate - Cheers from Canada!
Thanks man! This video helped a lot! Especially when unscrewing that last nut from the Shock Absorber.
Anytime.....cheers!
My mount snapped last night (2006 with 150k km) and the new one is already installed. Great video, thank you!
Anytime glad to hear it worked out cheers
Great video! Followed your steps and worked perfectly. Saved me some money too - Thanks!
I had this problem before and ended up paying a mechanic $100 to fix it. After watching your video, I bought the tools I needed plus the part, for the same exact price. Now, after fixing the problem, I am still left with the tools. Thank you very much.
Now you're ahead of the game Roni - cheers!
Thanks for the vid, got it all sorted out in about 2 hours including picking up the part and using only manual sockets wrenches.
Excellent! - Cheers from Canada!
Thank ya very much just had gotten the call from a friend that the shock was bangin around, mount was broken 20 min drive each way, 23 minute repair with tools pre readied at your advice the 10" extension suggestion was the best part or I'd be unable to get the gun in or havin to stack 3" n 4" extensions n crackin a ratchet over to get the angle to be able to clear, cheers!!!
Love to hear that Trefunk - Cheers from Canada!
Excellent video, and love the humor! Thanks very much for the help!
Anytime Mitch
Great vid! This gave me all I need to know to do this job today. Thx!
Glad it helped Rid
Hi there, I asked your advice previously about the shock mount and you were very helpful, so I was hoping you could help me with another problem. My 06 mazda 3 automatic has had the code P0131 on and off for a few months, and me being an idiot didn't address it. So today I took the car out without issues a few hours later my car wont start no turning over or clicking at all and now I'm getting the code p2251. Both seem to be related to the 02 sensor.All the lights in the car are working not dim at all. From my understanding the 02 sensor wouldn't cause the car not to start and it's got a new battery in it so I don't think it has to do with that. Could it be the starter? Would replacing the sensor make it start again? Any help would be appreciated thanks for your time.
Happened to my Tein flex Z rear upper mount. They're the same as oem, thankfully. 1 day shipped replacements. Thank you for the video!!
Glad it helped Nina - Cheers from Canada!
Thank you for the video. Replaced the mount in 30 min!!!
Very good to hear - Cheers from Canada!
Thanks for this video! It's good to find out this is a common problem
Anytime RS - cheers!
Heck of a good video and I will thank you for it. Thank you for the video.
Anytime your welcome
Thanks for the video. One thing I’d add is that when you’re mounting the new mount to the strut, make sure to tighten it down really snug so that the mount doesn’t wobble at all.
Good advice
im going to add the torque specs: 22-28 Nm or 17-20 ft.lb on the 2 top 12mm nuts to the mount, 79-105 Nm or 59-77 ft.lb on the long bottom bolt with the 17mm head. No available torque spec for the middle 13 mm nut on the top of the shock absorber though. To use anti-seize on the threads is up to you, but go on the lower scale of the torque specs! GL to all with this common failure point!
Thanks Mark for your really helpful video! A bit of our story followed by an IMPORTANT NOTICE ON THE REPLACEMENT PART! Last weekend, on a colourful fall journey in Quebec province, from Montreal through Mont-Laurier, Maniwaki, Wakefield, we had that bad experience on our Mazda 3 2010, while in Gatineau, still ±200 km to go to get back home! We thought at first it was something loose in the trunk, like maybe the car's jack… Nope... Then, those banging noises from the left rear side of the car began, starting rapidly to be more frequent also louder. The bracket cracked both side, leaving the shock pretty free to knock up around at the top of the car's chassis, damaging a bit one of the two threaded studs! IMPORTANT NOTICE: I cannot tell if that particular part is available at Mazda dealership elsewhere in Canada or USA, BUT at the nearest one from home, they DO NOT carry that part, selling ONLY the complete shock (142 $ + tx); the guy there at the parts told me I could only get that mount on the used market… loll! I found it easily afterward at UAP / NAPA, of course brand new! For the price, you are right on at 36 $ tx included (31 $ + tx)! Also Mark, thumb’s up for giving at each step of the repair the needed socket size (featuring 6 points, I agree!); also for the tip to unscrew the one at the top of the shock with a vise grip and a 13mm wrench. For the two nuts (12mm head) securing the mount, I did spray some loose nut on those, also because as stated before, one stud has some damaged threads, I used before to undo those a hex die M8 X 1.25 with a 1” socket to have those redone as new. Merci beaucoup, Mark !
Glad t help - well done!!!
Same for me today, hit a bump, shock and mount sheared right off the two mounting points and was free floating. 129k, mounts already replaced twice, undercoat every year.
Finally a canadian car repair youtube channel, subscribe. Excellent video
Thanks KGP - cheers
thanks mark for another grate video .
Anytime Joe!
08 Mazda 5 as well. ... Michigan pothole got it... Thanks for the vid
Anytime Paul - glad to help - Cheers from Canada!
Can you make a video on bumpsteer kits. When to use them?
Awesome tutorialz..👊
prices went down a bit since more and more of these aluminum alloy parts are out there. $23 each at my local autozone with a LIFETIME WARRANTY KYB Strut Mount SM5619. Also, they also made STEEL mounts with the same LIFETIME WARRANTY! $53 Dorman Strut Mount 924-412HP... since this video shows how simple it is to change, i'll opt for the OEM crappy aluminum ones, LoL. PS: Mazda or any later model vehicles= metrics, so if you have a 21 mm deep socket for the Lug Nuts, use that instead.
Suggest you spray some diesel fuel on that rust around your shock mount upper wheel well, the rockers on these cars are as super thin as a pop can metal and won't last very many winters in North America (I noticed the rocker on your Mazda was crunched in, maybe from going over snow/ice banks lol. Diesel fuel will stop the rust, smells nasty tho but cheaper than commercial solutions.
Also suggest anyone doing this job to clean & lube those threads as those upper mount bolts break easily. Planned obsolescence exactly.
I'm thinking it may be good to place a thin gasket in between the mount and the body, (aluminum touching tin or steel creates an electrical current and that's why both corrode in that area, as well as the fluctuations in temperature between the two metals.)
Keep up the great vids.
Good advice - thanks Q
good tip, may as well save even more $ by getting the off-road diesel (with the dye in it) less road tax
Thank you for this! My rear passenger mount broke just this morning on my way into work.
no problem - hope things work out
Haha me too, mine snapped off on me today! Thank you for this video, its gonna save me so much money!!
very helpful, followed it for my Volvo c30
Cheers from Canada - Glad it helped Sam
My 2010 Mazda 3 just had this happen. Broke away from the bolts. Thought it was something in my trunk bumping around at first.
You going to fix it yourself? - give it a try
@@carquestions Had Firestone do it before seeing this. Going to do the other myself, as I looked up the exact parts they used and they ended up charging me double for a new shock & quadruple for the mount.
@@colonizespace Ouch. I called napa. 20 bucks for each upper mount. ill charge him a case of beer soo in canada hes all said and done for 65 bucks
how did you make out ?
Fuvk dude same. I was getting mad
I got a 2005 mazda 3 and hit a pothole a few months ago and it broke the mount. Thing makes a racket and local places were quoting me crazy prices that I just can't afford with work being reduced due to covid. I was thinking of trying to fix it myself but I don't have all these tools at my disposal. I'm going to see if I can find a local car enthusiast that would do this for me if I bring all the parts now that I know it shouldn't cost as much as I've been quoted. Thanks for the video
Don't forget to check the springs, they like to break at the bottom. If you plan on keeping the car get the steel replacement mounts I posted below made by Dorman.
@@bobsoft Thanks, we replaced the shocks 2 years ago but the mounts were still holding on back then. I'll probably get two as the other one is looking worse for wear and will probably break like the first one
If they are the rears then buy the tools and change yourself and do as suggested in the video - you can do it!
Thank you so much. Fixing the hubbies tonight!
Good luck and keep fixin! - somebody has to be the super hero in the family
We can't get that bolt off on the bottom of the strut any suggestions? We've tried the impact and a wrench and blaster to loosen it up.
get out your camping / plumbing gear - small propane bottle with torch on end should do it - make sure to face the nut head or bolt then turn counterclockwise
We got that sucker out today!!!!! Thank you! Everything went swell after that camber bolt came loose.
I have 2006 Mazda 3 and I have changed the strut mounts 4 times (2 times each side) past the 100k mark on the odometer. I am at 200k now. Once you start using aftermarket parts, they break faster. Why this mount, which is subject to a stress all the time, is made out of such crappy alloy is beyond me. The last time, the mount was literally eaten by the salt and was crumbling. I am not exaggerating.
On a related topic, keep up the good job of demystifying car maintenance. I just watched the Marketplace show about the dealerships. I am not going to the dealerships anymore for maintenance, but when I did these guys always tried to flush something and change the spark plugs. The funny part is that the Mazda manual says to inspect plugs at 120k and only change if they look worn (carbon buildup, discolouration, cracks, etc). I eventually changed them myself for 1/4 of the cost the dealerships wanted and the original plugs were in perfect condition. I felt a bit stupid for doing this unnecessary maintenance.
Don't be - you did the right thing - if you had left them in longer they can seize in the head like ford trucks and then it is big money for a new head - you saved yourself more than you know
Hi ,the same problem i had in focus mk2, great wideo ,thanks ,regards
Good to hear Mark - thanks for the info mate - Cheers!
@carquestions broke on the upper 12 mm mounting bolts when changing things out. Appears to be fixed somehow to the top? Like welded or soemthing. Any suggestions on how to fix it?
Drill/grind off old bolt and replace with a simple bolt and washer - Cheers from Canada!
Is there access to the bolts at the top on either side ( of the mount ) through the boot/trunk ? I can't see how it would connect back up otherwise.
bolts are studs welded in place I think - but yes you can access them from inside the trunk
Simple and to the point. Im of to Napa to fix my buddies mounts
might as well do both sides eh.
Good luck to you GH - Cheers from Canada!
Good video. I was wondering if you should replace both rear mounts if one is broken.
Jesse - that's exactly what I did - you know the other is going to rust and crack so change them both while the tools are out and the car is up
i would like to thank you , excellent explication on how to do it, do you have the same kind of video for the front car.
Anytime Yves - and I don't have one for the front - it is totally different - cheers!
Happened on my CX-5 and had a helluva time finding the replacement mount. Problems weren't over ,tough...the lower shock bolt was designed by the same guy, apparently..NFG
I agree with that - thanks- Cheers from Canada!
Great video explaining just about everything I need to know to try and replace my now broken bracket. Where did you buy the mount bracket? Thanks
In Canada at Parts Source - PeP Boys or Autozone in the US should have it as well
Amazon has this at a great price.
Thanks for the info Aaron!
Tip: make sure that centre top nut is tightly snugged down when you re-assemble.
Very good advice Chris - thanks from Canada!
sorry about your pain. Is it best to just replace the strut too (my rear driver's side gave way (upper shock mount) on a 2004 Mazda 3 ? Since I have it all torn apart, what's your best guess on that, just leave the strut alone and just fix the mount?
Yes HB - leave the shock if it is not damaged just reuse it - Cheers from Canada!
Does anyone know what the part number is on the bottom 17 mm bolt? Mine has unfortunately stripped on one side.
Might be outdated - so just ask parts guy/girl
I just had this happen on a Mazda 3 with only 50,000 miles. Both sides of the mount cracked off when I went over a very mild pothole. Mazda should recall this, complete bs and a potential safety issue. They will be hearing from me.
The car is 8 years old but sits most of the time due to me driving other vehicles. There's no way it should have failed already. I took a look at the other side and it's getting thin on one area as well.
I agree 100%
This happened to me 3 nights ago! I’ve got about 120,000 though.
carquestions Thanks for this video, You took out the bottom bolt first, isn't it dangerous because all the weight of car on that bolt, so how is it possible to remove it safely without hurting your hand?
I mentioned putting the car up on jack stands or hoist first - when you do this there is very little pressure on the bolt you mention - don't do it without jacking it up and supporting it
Thank you! Just wondering if it would be any different to replace the mount for a Mazda 5?
I think it is Amber - just have a look - does it look the same? if it does the answer is yes - Cheers from Canada!
@@carquestions Great! It does look exactly the same. Thank you so much, greetings from AB!
well explained, thanks
Anytime - Cheers from Canada!
Yeah, mine cracked and is rattling and there's a burning smell near it, too. Didn't know this kind of thing was common in Mazdas.
I had another question: would you recommend changing the shocks as well with the mounts? I'd rather not to save money, but if its best then I may do it. My Mazda 3 is from 2005, if the age would be a factor in whether or not to replace them (don't know if they've ever been replaced; I've owned the car for like a year and a half). Does the rattling of the shock as a result of the mount break degrade the shock in any way? It's been going on for like a 2 or 3 weeks.
When you take it apart look for oil on the shock - if it is leaking change it otherwise keep it - shock itself is quick and easy to change anyway
Mine isn't cracked but I'm 99% sure the shock mounts are creaking.
New shocks and all new bushes and it creaks so much over bumps from what sounds to be right at the top of the shocks (hatchback).
Any experience with this?
Yes - carefully soak the suspected area with a light oil and test - keep doing this in different areas until you find it
Would applying some grease over the mount after you change it help to prevent the corrosion from happening again?
Yes - anything to stop it from rusting is a good idea
Walmart has paint spray that turns waterproof rubber.
Do you have a link to the part? need to replace mine as well
Sorry no - just Google it and find local store or Amazon.
is there a better *version* of the part? Mine keeps breaking
They make a steel version.
If and when those mounts broke, will it give a noise during driving or when you park the car n sliding the carseat back (and thus move the car a bit while sliding) ? ... My Mazda 3 has a clonking noise when I push my seat back. Sound comes from the rear...
it's possible Nathalie
As someone who had a snapped mount earlier today, believe me, you hear it loud and clear, almost like having a big rock stuck in your wheel well.
Thank you!
Anytime VQ - cheers!
First my 2010 Mazda 5 few years ago, and now my Mazda 3 yesterday, with only 50+k km. It's the shock that detached from the mount.
A really bad design - you'd think they would have tested it better
My front and rear shocks went out at around 120k miles. I Replaced them today, but the stock mounts were still just fine. Still, if I would have done my research I would have bought new ones.
not all vehicles will develop this problem - so if not cracked or damaged you did the right thing
I know it's a long time I hope you're still out here somewhere… Why did you paint the mounts the brand-new ones to help keep corrosion down a bit or completely. I just had my shocks replaced in my mounts were reused but I think I should go out and paint them what do you think
That's a good tip Jeff - I just spray mine with Krown - anything to prevent rust
@@carquestions hehe, aluminum doesnt rust :P but same principle to protect against corrosion :P
@@ricebike But it does corrode and deteriorate - thanks for the correction - Cheers!
Thank you for your video, I was able to get the piece at NAPA for 45 $ CAD and change it right away, took me 2 hours, your video was very helpful :) (Mazda 5 2010, NAPA piece: DCP 924412)
Excellent results Mr Gibson - Cheers !
sorry to say it like this but its not rustier lol I tried doing my front bumper and headlights a few months ago almost every bolt and screw snapped maybe 3 of them survived thats why im worrying that the bolts will snap on these when I goto do it damn pothole snapped my whole thing last night lmao might aswell do both of them though while im at it if this is a common problem you know of any places that sell stronger ones?
Sorry no I don't - you could paint them though
July 19, 2021 - I just had this part shear. Your vid is SOO easy to understand. I don't have safe way to raise my 2012 Mazda 3 and remove rear wheel. I have a friend who has a full service garage. Maybe I can ask him to do these steps. My MAZDA3- 2012 only has 36K miles on it. It's not necessary to replace the shock absorber? What do you recommend? Greetings from New York!
If the shocks haven't been damaged then you can reuse no problem - Cheers from Canada!
Was driving west off Kitchener towards New Hamburg at night and there was a stupid speed bump and I hit it and it snapped the DS rear left shock absorber. The last piece that you showed that's broken. Man these 2008 Mazda 3s are rust buckets. Had I known earlier I'd have totally avoided it. You live in Ontario? Whereabouts?
Sorry about that S but its typical - I Live in the country near Cambridge - Cheers from Canada!
Great Video, Thank you...... EH!
Anytime RF - cheers from Canada!
Hi there! will it be safe to drive the car with that piece broken? this just happened to me and I need the car for work. I will definitely get it fixed as soon as I'm off work in a couple days.
Thanks for the video and cheers.
Take it easy over bumps - probably been cracked for months - Cheers Fern
Personally, you should just be getting it fixed. Asking the internet to justify you driving your vehicle that “could be” dangerous isn’t right. We don’t know how bad your parts are? What kind of roads you drive on? How you drive? Use your common sense and go from there. We can’t see or hear what you do on your own vehicle.
This just happened to my girlfriends Mazda 3. One side is broken and making noise the other side is broken and not making noise. How much should labor be on that job if you were to have someone do it?
2 hours tops at whatever rate the shop has
sorry about your pain. Is it best to just replace the strut too (my rear driver's side gave way (upper shock mount) on a 2004 Mazda 3 ? Since I have it all torn apart, what's your best guess on that, just leave the strut alone and just fix the mount?
I hear a rattling noise on the rear side, I thought it would be the shocks but it is not broken, what other thing could it be?
It could be that the coil spring is broken within the top boot. Another "common" problem with the Mazda 3, had to change both of mine. Now watching this great video to preemptively change very rusty shock mounts.
thank you
I have a Mazda 3 and my own has a Knocking noise coming from the back and it definitely is not the shocks any idea what it can be
Yep - rear sway bar links
carquestions I will buy 2 tomorrow and hope for the best
LR shock mount broken on my 2016 CX-5 with 70,000 km. $200 cdn to purchase another LR shock as the shock mount can only be purchased with shock from the dealer. Mazda 5 and Mazda 3 have narrow bolt spacing.
Sorry to hear that DHS - aftermarket parts are made for this but lots are out of stock - good luck Cheers from Canada!
What Manufacturers do you recommend if someone is buying a new car? Thanks.
Toyota Lexus Acura Honda, Hyundai if your are looking for dependability
Thanks for the help :) Would Kia fall into the same category as Hyundai? Both are South Korean companies I believe.
Both are South Korean indeed. I think Hyundai would be considered more higher end than Kia, but both are reliable from what I have heard. Check out some reviews online.
+Wise2you Thanks for the info.
dang dude wish you had the install tutorial as well
Tyler - It's just the reverse of removal - Cheers
thanks there bud
Anytime Drew
The shock mount on my 2007 Mazda 3 has come down where the plastic is. Is it bad to drive like that or no?
yes - not safe to drive - repair immediately
hah what a coincidence. The same thing happened to my 07' Mazda 3 around the same time (3 ish months, shortly before covid shutdown)
Exactly the same problem on my Mazda 3 2009 😔
@@jonathanprovencal2763 yea I heard it's a common issue with Mazda.. I bought my car literally in Jan 2019 and I already had to replace my shock mounts like 3 times
@@vwth2themax170 Ooh! It's a real trouble...🤞
Speaking of making plastic shock mounts, who wants to place bets on how long it will take before we can start downloading plans for 3D printing replacement auto parts?
plastic would have lasted longer - no rusting anyway
Hi there, just had a question about the fix. I've got an 06 Mazda 3 2.0L I believe. Went over a massive pothole the other day and sure enough the upper rear mount broke off on both sides still attached to the top of the shock. I've got the car up and I'm trying to get the 2 nuts off of the welded bolts at the top of the wheel well and one is stripped and neither will budge. Coated them generously with wd-40 2 days straight and I can't get them off with a ratchet. I forgot to mention I'm not using an extension on the ratchet either so it's probably not making it any easier.I'd try an impact wrench being desperate but I don't have the funds for it right now. Any suggestions?
Yep - heat the nut with a propane torch
Yeh I tried that too. Showed it to two mechanics they both agreed the bolts looked like they were about to come off anyway so ended up taking them right off and welding new ones on. Thanks for the video though, I'm no means an expert and you do a great job of breaking it down step by step, I'm sure you've saved a lot of people a lot of money.
@@electrojam1 where di you get the replacement bolts ?
ugh please help me. I hear knocking noise in the back rear maybe pass side? it only happens when going over little bumps in the road. my Poor gf bought the vehicle used and I want to help her so she can drive safely. We cannot afford to take to mechanics unless we absolutely have to. Where can I start to diagnose?
Inspect the rear suspension parts closely - you can see cracks like in the video so look for those - then tug on all the metal parts - none should be lose and look and feel exactly as the opposite part on the other side of the car - let me know what you find
ill have to wait until my day off to do that. Should I jack up the side the problem is on? or the whole rear just to make sure the passenger side should be just like the driver side?
You need to check both sides to be thorough
thanks for quick replies, ill let you know how it goes in two days. The mechanic wants 580$ to repair both shock and struts. I think if it is the issue, I can buy the struts from mazda for 100$ each. Should i stick with OEM or aftermarket and what parts do you think I need? struts and just the strut mounts? Ill make sure it is the issue first before I buy them
Hello , I have a mazda 3 2004(i-sedan) with 82000km driven. Recently, after a hard bump on the road my rear left shock mount broke. I would like to get your expert advise on:
1/Shall i just get the rear left mount replaced?
2/Shall i get the complete rear left shock(with mount) replaced?
3/Shall i get both rear(left and right) shocks replaced?
Please let me know the best solution and if i can get the parts online)amazon or ebay? I am in Canada. Thankyou,
Easy choice - Given the age of the car being 14 years old it would be best to replace both sides with complete strut assemblies - as long as you plan on keeping it for a few more years
Thankyou so much for letting me know. Yes, its 14 years old but on the odometer its only 82000km.
1/Just curious to know why instead of changing the broken left mount only, you think its best to not only change the rear left shock with mount, BUT the right one as well(when it is working properly and no issues)? If i go with changing everything, i will be changing the OEM shocks with probably unbranded ones, so is it a good idea?
3/Mazda dealer gave me the price of $125each for complete shock with plate, so $250 plus taxes = $287.5 + around $100 for labour(i guess), comes to arround $400.
However, the mount only can be bought for $30(From Prime choice auto parts on amazon) plus labour $50($90- taxes in). Shocks from Prime Choice auto parts on amazon are $68.47. So, i am confused if replacing the OEM shocks with unbranded ones is a good idea.
Its bit confusing for me, i hope you will clarify this. Thanks,
Thanks.
Anytime BGzlyj - cheers from Canada!
2016 Mazda 3. For what ever reason autozone and advanced say they don’t have anything in there system for a 2016 Mazda3 rear strut mount. I can’t find anything for that year and the proper part the correlates. I bought a part that looks like what you have. 🤞
bad parts guy I guess - Cheers!
@@carquestions would you know if the same part used for 2016 models are the part as what you show?
@@granbul6986 you'd need to go to rockauto and look at pictures or see if the part numbers are the same from different years.
I’m in the same boat. I have been searching for months and can’t find it. Did that part you order fit?
@@georgemarino4463 try searching this - DORMAN SM65669PR
Another great car design...you pay top dollar for a car and they cheapen it in the darndest places. Thanks for the info.
Ya - its not even required - they could have built it into the steel body like lots of other do - planned obsolescence for sure
is the new mount aluminum?
Most very likely - or other light metal like zinc - Cheers!
Dorman Strut Mount 924-412HP is now made from steel by about $30 more than the OEM aluminum one
thanks broheim
Anytime - Cheers!
Hi where can I buy this bracket I am canadiean Thanks
Yep - its available at auto parts store or Rockauto
www.amazon.ca/Dorman-924-412-Upper-Shock-Mount/dp/B0049DYW3A
Lordco..$32 each.. in BC (Vancouver)
😊 Thanks
No problem - Cheers!
Ya this just happened to me and will be replacing it this weekend.
Let me know how it works out for you SI - cheers from Canada!
@@carquestions well the one bolt sheared off when I tried to take the nut off, it was rusted on good. So I learned to apply heat to the nut with a torch and the other came off no problem lol. The strut I ordered had 2 extentions at the bottom so the bolt didn't go through. We had to grind those off. So much fun but got it done
@@SinnisjInsulator You kept at it and got her done - good job
@@carquestions I did. It would have cost a fortune at the shop I'm sure.
@@carquestions hey you helped me out with my car troubles. Now it's my turn to return the favour. I have an attic insulation channel you can checkout to give you tips on how to install loose fill insulation in your home to reduce energy costs. Cheers
All I can say is, be very careful not to over tighten those two mounting screws when you are putting it back together.. The torque setting is 15-21, and I still snapped two of them. I am not a mechanic, but still unlucky with this job. Now to see it I can get compensated at the parts store. Now, what am I doing wrong?
Make sure the base where it fits to is perfectly flat and clean otherwise it will crack when tightened - even the smallest bit of crap will do it - let me know how you make out
You are spot on. That is exactly what happened. I just did not see it until I took the second one off the next day and a small piece of the original one up was up near the thread. Blind as a bat I guess, but thanks so much for your response, I do appreciate it, and will now know to be extra careful. Dave. p.s. the parts store was nice enough to give me another. Cheers.
I replaced mine last year.... exactly one year later i'll have to replace again...
where are u located mark ?
I live outside Brantford Ontario Canada Tarun
i was thinking of visiting you with my car if u would have been anywhere near toronto, i have a question if you could answer , i have a 2008 honda civic , during past winter for 3months i didnt drive it bcoz i was out of country and when i went for oil change my mechanic found that there was no coolant , once before this happened when there was no coolant in car . i have never found any leak below car? so i am wondering why is this happening , 2 days before i got to know about coolant leak and engine break down in honda civics 2004- 08 and i am little concerned .
I just bought 2013 mazda3 sure won't made to last. Sun roof leaks major. Already did other work to it sway bar joints Nightmare
I hear ya Drew - next time a couple bucks more for a Toyota - resale is better too - cheers!
The bolt in the rear mount is messed up and wont come out, can I cut the screw and replace it, do you have a solution for the problem
Ya Ralph - the only solution is to drill it out and replace from the top with another bolt - Cheers from Canada! - let me know how you make out
Same thing happened to me except I snapped both bolts so I gotta drill em out 🤦 an hour job just turned into 8 lol
@@JmanHash99 lol sorry about that, I managed to cut the bolt around the screw with a small steel blade, it takes time so I was doing a little bit each time I did not have to go to work, and used the remainder if the screw that was good, I still have extra length in it, hope you make out okay
@@ralphwhitaker8761 took me from 7am to about 3:30-4 to get it finished , after about 5-6 trips to the hardware store cause the drill bits kept chipping and snapping. I got er done tho. I'm lucky I had today off work. I've done rear shocks before but this is the first time I ran into one where the top bolts were welded/riveted into the car. And also the first time the bolts snapped on me Usually they just bolt in. I'm trading this thing in 🤣 time for a Chevy or Honda. Can't ever find parts for this thing
Hey buddy love ur videos. Got a 04' Mazda 3 question for ya .manual. Greetings from Oakville:)
Engine starts to overheat past op temp at idle after a few mins, cools down when driven. coolant level is good.
Sound like thermostat near back of engine? Only thing is I didn't get po142 code or anything. Thoughts?
Also is the ECT same as thermostat? I saw ur vid on this but was wondering if u could lend a few tips or ur thoughts. Any help thanks in advance . Will keep subscribing . (Altho tapped unsub by accident but I resub don't worry) aha
Is the cooling fan coming on is the first thing I'd check - does the cooling fan come on when AC is turned on? - Because of the low cost I would change the thermostat for sure - Don't overheat your engine - not good for it's health
carquestions hmm yeah fan doesn't turn at all but faces no resistance when I turn with my hand. I'm gonna test it with a circuit thing (my buddy is more so an electrician but likes to work on his wrx impreza. Gonna test Saturday morning probably.
Anyway thanks again!! Gonna look into cooling fan, probably replace thermostat anyway and coolant flush (car has 350,000km haha)
I'll let u know how it goes! Hopin to at least break 400k.
Take care
carquestions u were right! Cooling fan wasnt working . At all. Thank u ! gonna do a coolant flush and change the thermostat too in a few days. Car just hit 350k! Thanks man. Will be tuning into ur vids periodically im sure. Gonna try to push out another 50k haha
Had the same happen to my 2012 Volvo S60.
Can anyone think if any reason at all why they make them out of aluminium rather than steel? Seems like planned obsolescence.
Weight and casting is sometimes cheaper than stamping PMC - Cheers from Canada!
Curious if I couldn't just bail these out of steel so they don't rot out
That or a tough plastic - good idea Mike - Cheer!
Dorman now makes these out of steel for roughly $30 more per unit Dorman Strut Mount 924-412HP (label kinda known, even though we know these are really shock mounts)
@@ricebike Good tip - thanks Earl
don't... I think they made it out of aluminum for a reason... if you make it out of stronger material and the studs holding the thing break, you're then in a world of hurt!
@@carquestionsless plastic the better…
I think my mount is groaning on bumps but it looks fine
Spray it with WD40 to test and confirm - Cheers!