Thanks for doing this video. My shock mount just went on my Mazda 3. Do the the work is nothing and the parts are cheap I spent more time trying to get old bolts that were rusted off, even with penetrating spray. Thanks for making it so easy. I’m replace the other side absorber just in case. Thanks for giving me the confidence to work on my part of my car I have never done.
@@1AAuto no they didn't, they still forgot to show how to tighten the nut by hand on the top of the shock to the mount. They used hand tools except for the hardest part! Getting the shock nut tight is nearly impossible if it's new shocks the nut doesn't screw on by hand when the mounts off let alone with the bump stop and mount
@@jehurja6676 he used an impact to zip that 13mm nut on... if doing manually, you'll need a box end wrench on the nut & a smaller socket at the end of the rod. Hold the rod while you crank on the 13mm nut. It's also weird that the shop manual doesn't have a torque spec for that center nut
Great tutorial. I did this repair myself today, but there was no way I myself was getting the 15 year-old rusted-on bottom bolt off, so I just worked on it with the shock still in the wheel well. Trying to get the top nut off this was was a bit of task, but patience won the day.
My right rear side just went again at 156K miles. I had a professional replace its first failure at about 105K, 4 1/2 years ago. I just ordered Dorman steel shock mounts. What would you think of my removing the shock and mount completely and driving locally as needed? Until I get the mount in tomorrow/next day? It's already detached it seems to me. Would you leave the lame assembly in there, no matter what and wait to do everything at once when part is in? Don't drive around without a right rear shock?
he had impact tools. do MANUALLY remove the 13mm center nut from the shock absorber, you need a box end wrench on that... THEN, put a vice grip pliers on that rod to keep from spinning while you crank on that 13mm nut counter clock wise
At 3:13 you removed the rubber but never replaced it. After my car was in the shop to replace this shock absorber the rubber is also missing and from there a clunking noise appears when driving over bumps. Could this missing rubber be the problem?
I broke one of the upper mounting bolts. How can I replace or fix it? Seems like it's welded in there from the top or something. Thanks for the video, super helpful!!
So I had replaced this mount a little under a month ago. A few days ago I had noticed the same noise from the rear, passenger side from when the last mount broke. I looked and the new shock mount that I installed, only a few hundred Km’s on it is cracking in the same place as the one I just replaced. I’m confused. I don’t get why it’s cracking in the same place. Could it be the strut is failing? How do I check?
probably defect from the manufacturer... i just noticed autozone carries a lifetime warranty on these oem style cheapo aluminum mounts. Dorman has created a STEEL mount with similar lifetime warranty on theirs at roughly $30 more than the OEM aluminum ones
cut/ drill the top bolts out since it's welded to the body. then get replacement bolts/washers to replace them. GL, just stumbled on this video if you didn't do it already
I am having problems with removing the bolt from the shock mount itself. The whole thing keeps on spinning when i try to take off the bottem bolt with a wrench and a vise grip to hold the rod in place. But it wont hold in place.
+Boris Dikko This procedure might be different for your application. We do not currently have a how-to video for this particular year, make and model. Thank you for asking! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
1A Auto: Repair Tips & Secrets Only Mechanics Know hey, just found out , the shock mount is exactly the same, I ll check if the procedure is the same though. Thank you!
thanks for the torque specs on the top 12mm nuts and the bottom 17mm bolt... but what about the 13mm center nut? i don't have an impact driver to zip it tight?!? and awsome points on the lug nuts, ps: if you got the bigger 17mm aluminum alloy rims, the spec is 90 ft.lbs. is your part painted aluminum or is it actual steel like the dorman part?
I am goin nuts!!! I have replaced rear shocks, swaybar links, swaybar bushings, pass side upper control arm and lower both with new bushings. Driver side upper control arm and lower both new bushings and still i have loud clunking in rear. What the hell is it 😔😔
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One of the best car repair videos I have watched. Easy to see, clear steps, sizes, torque. My compliments!
+Jim Engelhart Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Thanks for doing this video. My shock mount just went on my Mazda 3. Do the the work is nothing and the parts are cheap I spent more time trying to get old bolts that were rusted off, even with penetrating spray. Thanks for making it so easy. I’m replace the other side absorber just in case. Thanks for giving me the confidence to work on my part of my car I have never done.
Yess! Finally a video that shows everything. Thank you
+Tempest C Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
@@1AAuto no they didn't, they still forgot to show how to tighten the nut by hand on the top of the shock to the mount. They used hand tools except for the hardest part! Getting the shock nut tight is nearly impossible if it's new shocks the nut doesn't screw on by hand when the mounts off let alone with the bump stop and mount
this was my 2nd one... the first result was from a canadian shop & was identical in the process
@@jehurja6676 he used an impact to zip that 13mm nut on... if doing manually, you'll need a box end wrench on the nut & a smaller socket at the end of the rod. Hold the rod while you crank on the 13mm nut. It's also weird that the shop manual doesn't have a torque spec for that center nut
thanks for doing these videos i'm literally doing the shock mounts on my mazda next week
your video helped a lot thanks
Thanks for this detailed demonstration!
Thank you for mentioning the nut sizes. I watched a ton of them till this.
Can you get the car high enough with just a jack and jack stands to do this? Or does one need a lift?
I did it with only a jack stand and it was perfect !
Perfect video. Easy to follow and understand. Even narrated with sizes of nuts/bolts
Great tutorial. I did this repair myself today, but there was no way I myself was getting the 15 year-old rusted-on bottom bolt off, so I just worked on it with the shock still in the wheel well. Trying to get the top nut off this was was a bit of task, but patience won the day.
I DON'T KNOW WHY ANYBODY WOULD GIVE THIS A THUMBS DOWN 🤔-STRAIGHT TO THE POINT AND EASY
+jorge pizarro Thanks for the feedback!
Cause the first 2 and the last 2 min were an absolute waste of time?
Excellent tutorial💪🏼🤙🏼
Can the rubber be bad in the shock mount and make a rattling sound that way?
My right rear side just went again at 156K miles. I had a professional replace its first failure at about 105K, 4 1/2 years ago.
I just ordered Dorman steel shock mounts.
What would you think of my removing the shock and mount completely and driving locally as needed? Until I get the mount in tomorrow/next day?
It's already detached it seems to me. Would you leave the lame assembly in there, no matter what and wait to do everything at once when part is in? Don't drive around without a right rear shock?
Great video, but I'm not sure how you're getting that top but off the shock when the whole rod spins.
he had impact tools. do MANUALLY remove the 13mm center nut from the shock absorber, you need a box end wrench on that... THEN, put a vice grip pliers on that rod to keep from spinning while you crank on that 13mm nut counter clock wise
Thanks for posting this. Gonna try doing this on my 07 sedan. I've already has 2 of these replaced and I'm sick of paying the dealer $250 every time.
I did this job today, you can do it without lifting the car but you need Impact Wrench for bottom bolt
rest its plug and play
Is there a socket to hold the top of the shock ?
You see the bolts either side of the top mount, is it possible to change them ?
Is this a steel mount or aluminum like oem?
U R THE BEST
Thank you brother.
At 3:13 you removed the rubber but never replaced it. After my car was in the shop to replace this shock absorber the rubber is also missing and from there a clunking noise appears when driving over bumps. Could this missing rubber be the problem?
nope; inspect other suspension points for that noise...
Should i put a threadlocker on the shock’s bolt
nice video , i guess i could reuse the boot cover, my right rear shock mount just broke
Great tutorial , what are the symptoms of a worn mount please ?
Clunking noises. Rattling noises
plus, a quick visual inside the wheel well to actually see it's broken off!
I broke one of the upper mounting bolts. How can I replace or fix it? Seems like it's welded in there from the top or something. Thanks for the video, super helpful!!
unfortunately, you're correct that's it welded on... cut off/ drill out & replace bolt is the remedy
So I had replaced this mount a little under a month ago. A few days ago I had noticed the same noise from the rear, passenger side from when the last mount broke. I looked and the new shock mount that I installed, only a few hundred Km’s on it is cracking in the same place as the one I just replaced. I’m confused. I don’t get why it’s cracking in the same place. Could it be the strut is failing? How do I check?
probably defect from the manufacturer... i just noticed autozone carries a lifetime warranty on these oem style cheapo aluminum mounts. Dorman has created a STEEL mount with similar lifetime warranty on theirs at roughly $30 more than the OEM aluminum ones
Does anyone know if this applies for Mazda 3 2015 hatchback model?
The bolt in the rear mount is messed up and wont come out, can I cut the screw and replace it, do you have a solution for the problem
cut/ drill the top bolts out since it's welded to the body. then get replacement bolts/washers to replace them. GL, just stumbled on this video if you didn't do it already
Awesome job checked yourself on safety and used words like theoretically because ship happens!
Hey, why would you replace it? What kind of noise/symptoms did the car have?
Once mount breaks the shock is free at top to move. Noticeable clunking and banging will be heard at shock hits underside of wheelwell.
@@normcook9335 just happened to my Mazda3 today :(
@@alec32432 Happens to my Mazda 5 every year or two, those mounts sure love to break.
I am having problems with removing the bolt from the shock mount itself. The whole thing keeps on spinning when i try to take off the bottem bolt with a wrench and a vise grip to hold the rod in place. But it wont hold in place.
ever found a fix?
Does car need alignment after replacement?
+Pi Noy Yes we recommend an alignment after any suspension or steering part replacement.
Is it fit for mazda cx5 2015?
i looked it up, yes similar part design
Does it work with 3 gen Mazda 3?
+Boris Dikko This procedure might be different for your application. We do not currently have a how-to video for this particular year, make and model. Thank you for asking! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
1A Auto: Repair Tips & Secrets Only Mechanics Know hey, just found out , the shock mount is exactly the same, I ll check if the procedure is the same though.
Thank you!
Why cant the shock absorber be inputted through the side of the car instead of putting it straight up from the bottom?
different engineer designs based on the model
thanks for the torque specs on the top 12mm nuts and the bottom 17mm bolt... but what about the 13mm center nut? i don't have an impact driver to zip it tight?!? and awsome points on the lug nuts, ps: if you got the bigger 17mm aluminum alloy rims, the spec is 90 ft.lbs. is your part painted aluminum or is it actual steel like the dorman part?
6:37 "*TIGHT*" 😅😅
I am goin nuts!!! I have replaced rear shocks, swaybar links, swaybar bushings, pass side upper control arm and lower both with new bushings. Driver side upper control arm and lower both new bushings and still i have loud clunking in rear. What the hell is it 😔😔
I swear this guy is Chrisfix he sounds like him.
beg to differ, chris is younger... but BOTH are knowledgeable in their respective fields!
vericle