Really passionate about the research, honest and trying to get the standards up for all manufacturers. Everyone is always so negative, even if this rope does not intrest you, it's a good thing for all of us climbers as a future safety improvement. Big thumbs up from me guy! great work
We've been climbing on this rope exclusively for the last year or so and love it. The only significant downside we've noticed is that it tends to curl and twist more than other ropes. But in my book, the added cut resistance is worth it. Such a cool rope! -Andreas
Actually, if I remember correctly, you aren't even allowed to do that on a Grigri 2 or Grigri+ (it starts from 9.0mm there), but on a new Grigri (aka Grigri 3) the diameter went down to 8.5, so in theory you should be fine - but agreed, it would probably be perfect if it was slightly above 9mm.
According to the german alpine association the grigri 2 has a holding power of 240 kgs with a 8.9 mm rope. This means that it locks the rope completely and this matches my experience.
I'm really curious about this myself! I can imagine that the aramid would dramatically increase abrasion resistance, in theory. But the proof is in the pudding when it comes to real-world use and how the aramid and polyamide (nylon) fibers interact. Time will tell :)
Jeezus... people are going to climb on an 8.9mm single rope? That takes some real faith. Why not put this same tech into a 10mm rope and produce something that is absolutely bomber?
When you are using a 80 oe 100 m rope it makes a huge difference if you are using a 8.9 or 10mm rope. I climbed a lot on a 8.9 and 8.7 mm rope belayed with an grigri without an issue. The modern ropes are really durable, maybe you should try it.
Tommy Caldwell told us he climbs on the 8.9 swift (non aramid version) for almost everything other than big walls. Like Phil mentions in the video, with all the incredible technology in dynamic ropes these days, cut resistance is THE limiting factor in rope safety, which is why Edelrid spent the last 5 years trying to figure out how to measure cut resistance, and then make ropes that actually are more cut resistant... and therefor safer. There is very little evidence to suggest a 10mm rope is safer than an 8.9mm rope IF that 8.9mm has the same cut resistance. Assuming that it's necessary to have a 10mm rope or larger for it to be "bomber" might be more of a mindset we hold than a statistical reality. If we can't point to accidents in which 10mm ropes were cut, than adding addition cut resistance to make a 10mm "bomber" is like making a rope that can be certified to 30 or more falls in a UIAA test. At that point, there is essentially no evidence to say it is better, even if it is more. It feels safer, but the margin of safety might be so large to begin with that any additional margin is effectively inconsequential. Caveat: I don't have any specific scientific evidence to back up these statements, they are simply my opinion that I've formed after limited research and speaking with many rope manufacturers. -Andreas
@@WeighMyRack Yeah, I'm not Tommy Caldwell. Nor are 99% of climbers on the planet at his level. Don't tell me we're doing that crap now with climbing gear. I don't much give a shit what shoes Tommy or Chris or Adam wear or which cams they use or which rope.
Really passionate about the research, honest and trying to get the standards up for all manufacturers. Everyone is always so negative, even if this rope does not intrest you, it's a good thing for all of us climbers as a future safety improvement. Big thumbs up from me guy! great work
Can we PLEASE have this rope in a bicolor pattern next?
My thoughts exactly. The new Tommy Caldwell bicolor is amazing! I would love to have the Swift Protect available in a similar design.
-Andreas
Take my money!
We've been climbing on this rope exclusively for the last year or so and love it. The only significant downside we've noticed is that it tends to curl and twist more than other ropes. But in my book, the added cut resistance is worth it. Such a cool rope!
-Andreas
Thanks!
Does anyone else not want to run a 8.9 through a grigri? I would buy this right now in 9.2 .
Actually, if I remember correctly, you aren't even allowed to do that on a Grigri 2 or Grigri+ (it starts from 9.0mm there), but on a new Grigri (aka Grigri 3) the diameter went down to 8.5, so in theory you should be fine - but agreed, it would probably be perfect if it was slightly above 9mm.
@@fireman2375 The GriGri 2 is from 8.9mm to 11mm (9.4-10.3 is ideal though)
It is really not a problem.
According to the german alpine association the grigri 2 has a holding power of 240 kgs with a 8.9 mm rope. This means that it locks the rope completely and this matches my experience.
Imagine they started small for investment cost and will slowly expand the technology into bigger diameter.
Do you know if they will produce this rope in different colors? I'm thinking to get 2*40m for my climb
What about the abrasion resistance? It's the main issue with the ropes.
Is cutting resistance not abrasion resistance...?
@@HandFedMole Not exactly. It may be linked, but not directly.
I'm really curious about this myself! I can imagine that the aramid would dramatically increase abrasion resistance, in theory. But the proof is in the pudding when it comes to real-world use and how the aramid and polyamide (nylon) fibers interact. Time will tell :)
Jeezus... people are going to climb on an 8.9mm single rope? That takes some real faith. Why not put this same tech into a 10mm rope and produce something that is absolutely bomber?
When you are using a 80 oe 100 m rope it makes a huge difference if you are using a 8.9 or 10mm rope. I climbed a lot on a 8.9 and 8.7 mm rope belayed with an grigri without an issue. The modern ropes are really durable, maybe you should try it.
2 reasons: people want skinny ropes because they are lighter, 10 mm rope with this tech would probably be too stiff.
@@mikafull Even with a 60 m rope it makes about 0,5 kg difference in weight between a 8,9 and a 10 mm rope. 0,5 kg is much in the alpine environment.
Tommy Caldwell told us he climbs on the 8.9 swift (non aramid version) for almost everything other than big walls. Like Phil mentions in the video, with all the incredible technology in dynamic ropes these days, cut resistance is THE limiting factor in rope safety, which is why Edelrid spent the last 5 years trying to figure out how to measure cut resistance, and then make ropes that actually are more cut resistant... and therefor safer. There is very little evidence to suggest a 10mm rope is safer than an 8.9mm rope IF that 8.9mm has the same cut resistance. Assuming that it's necessary to have a 10mm rope or larger for it to be "bomber" might be more of a mindset we hold than a statistical reality. If we can't point to accidents in which 10mm ropes were cut, than adding addition cut resistance to make a 10mm "bomber" is like making a rope that can be certified to 30 or more falls in a UIAA test. At that point, there is essentially no evidence to say it is better, even if it is more. It feels safer, but the margin of safety might be so large to begin with that any additional margin is effectively inconsequential. Caveat: I don't have any specific scientific evidence to back up these statements, they are simply my opinion that I've formed after limited research and speaking with many rope manufacturers.
-Andreas
@@WeighMyRack Yeah, I'm not Tommy Caldwell. Nor are 99% of climbers on the planet at his level. Don't tell me we're doing that crap now with climbing gear. I don't much give a shit what shoes Tommy or Chris or Adam wear or which cams they use or which rope.