Looking good, live and learn is all we can do! I've made so many mistakes with almost everything I've done with guitars, and retrospect and fixing mistakes, certainly drives it home. Your skill level on the other hand, is light years ahead of anything I can strive for. I'm saying that because I'll be sixty yrs old in one week. My best days are behind me.
Those airways will help to prevent the burn thru, but you can still manage to do it. You may want to try loose flannel buffs instead of the sewn that your using. Another tip if you use the loose wheels is to use multiple to make a thicker wheel depending on how many your buffing arbor can hold.
I am glad to finally see a new video on this build. Bummer about burning through the finish. One thing you might try is mounting the buffer to a wall it will give you better access to the wheels. Also you might look for some wider wheels to spread out the contact area a bit and it might help speed up the polishing doing a little more with each pass.Sense the neck is not installed go ahead and make it easier on yourself and do the repair before installing the neck.
Oh it takes a long time for sure. If I had more time to dedicate to RUclips I would film in advance and post sequentially without breaks, but unfortunately I’m posting content as fast as I can actually do the projects.
Glad you got a buffer Brad but they can be evil tools and once damaged a strat body with a buffer! It grabbed the neck pocket and bounced off the floor lol 🤣 I can laugh now! Enjoy ya weekend brother mine is going to be spent scraping binding in my les paul I've just re finished in ebony sparkle...fix it assembled mate...just cos its harder..
Looking good Brad, couple of hiccups, but not hard to fix. I would fix them both while you are at it, I would do it while the neck is out of the way, but that's me. If you want to make a repair video like to fix on a fully built guitar, that would be cool and entirely up to you. I am not experienced with the buffing wheel either, but I know you can mess up real quick, an example of less is more.
Oh not much. Just cleaned out the rabbit enclosure here at my petting zoo and now I’m unwinding and curious just how deep those dens actually go and what the hell they might be planning down there. Thoughtful of you to ask what’s up. Wish it was something relevant. Oh well. Lol
I'd like to see you do the repair with the neck already in. Remember when I did the twins? They are in my picture there. I burnt through as well. I know how I fixed it and I'm curious to see how you do it. I was using the same style weel you were. I bought a car buffer that I'm going to try on this build I'm working on now. I think it will work better. I can control the speed on it too.
Hey Brad, I'd like to just say thanks for all the detailed tutorials,taking the time to help the people trying to get good results from an otherwise confusing/tricky undertaking as refinishing a guitar. This is off subject to this current video,but I'm getting ready to clear coat a project electric guitar for my grandson,using Rust-Oleum×2 matte, he's decided he'd like some certain themed stickers on it ,will my clear coat be compatible with any kind of waterslides,or vinyls? Thanks for any help.
There can be compatibility issues with decals. Sometimes they wrinkle under clear. I don’t think the rustoleum will cause you too many problems though.
Thank you very much sir, I guess I'll order some extra decales and do some tests before we do the guitar. I used your tutorial on striping with gloss and matte -od green with black stripes, going for a WW2 fighter plane theme,shark mouth and bullet holes. So far it looks pretty good,thanks again.
Hey Brad, I'm thinking of buying one of those Rikon Buffers - do you think it would drive 10 - 12" wheels, with two on each side? The flannel wheels two on a side provide a wider buffing surface, but I'm not sure if that motor will drive them... Please let me know what you think.
I get the sense that it probably wouldn’t do a very effective job of that. I’m planning on doubling up the 8” wheels, but it’s probably going to stall out occasionally with those.
Hey Brad, I’m doing a striped paint job and where I peeled tape there are ridges. Using dupilcolor perfect match lacquer. Will the clear melt some of that or should I do a light sand. Top coat is pearl white so I’m kind of afraid it wilmaffect the finish by sanding. Thanks
Brad, I have a question. I know you're familiar with the guitar oil that you get from Crimson in the short steel bottle. If I was to put that on a guitar is there any way that I could shoot clear over top of the Finish after it soaks in? It's all mahogany Gibson SG Style I love the look it gives the mahogany.
You may be able to clear coat over that, but if you use an oil based clear I think you’ll find it gives you a similar look without the intervening step.
The guitar is looking great Brad. What a pity about the burn through but you did great considering this was not your normal way of buffing. It shows character to not hide making mistakes and to turn this into a learning moment for us too. There are hundreds of content showing me how to do the perfect finish but little showing us how to deal when its not so perfect. I look forward to the follow up repair. Would love to see it neck on as if it were an existing guitar repair but I feel you're making it too hard on yourself so I'd be ok with it off.
I can't say that I speak for everyone, but I watch your videos because I want to know how to do things during the building process, rather than working on something that's already fully assembled. Thus, I'd say fix it before assembly.
Hello! Is it ok to use an NGR penetrating wood stain on an acoustic guitar? I have bought one online but I'm worried it could muffle my guitar or something. The plan is to stain both fretboard and body and then apply clear lacquer top coat on the body
First, may I assume that you would repair the flaw the same way whether repaired now or after the guitar is assembled? (Excluding prep work being more demanding on the assembled guitar). So to answer your question, if the repair is identical, just do it now and take the guitar to completion. Too many projects at once affects quality and disrupts a person's thought processes...at least it does mine, he he.
You almost had it perfect! Just fix it right now without the neck on. Great video. thanks
Thank you
That's really coming out nice.
Thank you
Brad go ahead & finish as it is. looking good expecting great sound from your build.
best of luck on final stretch take it easy.
Dave
Looking good, live and learn is all we can do!
I've made so many mistakes with almost everything I've done with guitars, and retrospect and fixing mistakes, certainly drives it home.
Your skill level on the other hand, is light years ahead of anything I can strive for. I'm saying that because I'll be sixty yrs old in one week.
My best days are behind me.
There’s always time to improve my friend
Keep looking to the heavens,your best day is yet to come,Godbless.btw my middle name should've been ooooops,lol.
Good work Brad. I'm so proud of you. 🤗🇨🇦
Haha thanks Brian. I’m really making a mess out here.
Those airways will help to prevent the burn thru, but you can still manage to do it. You may want to try loose flannel buffs instead of the sewn that your using. Another tip if you use the loose wheels is to use multiple to make a thicker wheel depending on how many your buffing arbor can hold.
Awesome; thank you.
Nice job Brad. You buff with the best of them.
Until I burn through my damn lacquer haha
It's looking great.
Hope someday you do a custom paintjob on an acoustic, like the SG with the planets.
I’ve done one. That video series was quite a while ago though. Back when I was in the old building.
I am glad to finally see a new video on this build. Bummer about burning through the finish. One thing you might try is mounting the buffer to a wall it will give you better access to the wheels. Also you might look for some wider wheels to spread out the contact area a bit and it might help speed up the polishing doing a little more with each pass.Sense the neck is not installed go ahead and make it easier on yourself and do the repair before installing the neck.
Thanks Robert, the delay was to let the lacquer harden. That always takes quite a while haha.
@@BradAngove Yeah Understood. Just seems like to those of us that live vicariously through others it takes longer than it does. LOL
Oh it takes a long time for sure. If I had more time to dedicate to RUclips I would film in advance and post sequentially without breaks, but unfortunately I’m posting content as fast as I can actually do the projects.
Looking beautiful brad. Wish I could send you my kit and you do it lol.
Thanks Kent
Repair first, I say.
Either way I'm sure will be beneficial though.
Was wondering if I missed a video on this build. Looks really cool.
I just had to give the lacquer time to dry.
Glad you got a buffer Brad but they can be evil tools and once damaged a strat body with a buffer! It grabbed the neck pocket and bounced off the floor lol 🤣 I can laugh now! Enjoy ya weekend brother mine is going to be spent scraping binding in my les paul I've just re finished in ebony sparkle...fix it assembled mate...just cos its harder..
Cheers Stu
Good video man
Thanks Blake
Looking good Brad, couple of hiccups, but not hard to fix. I would fix them both while you are at it, I would do it while the neck is out of the way, but that's me. If you want to make a repair video like to fix on a fully built guitar, that would be cool and entirely up to you. I am not experienced with the buffing wheel either, but I know you can mess up real quick, an example of less is more.
Thanks man
Oh not much. Just cleaned out the rabbit enclosure here at my petting zoo and now I’m unwinding and curious just how deep those dens actually go and what the hell they might be planning down there. Thoughtful of you to ask what’s up. Wish it was something relevant. Oh well. Lol
I'd like to see you do the repair with the neck already in. Remember when I did the twins? They are in my picture there. I burnt through as well. I know how I fixed it and I'm curious to see how you do it. I was using the same style weel you were. I bought a car buffer that I'm going to try on this build I'm working on now. I think it will work better. I can control the speed on it too.
Cheers my friend!!
Hey Brad, I'd like to just say thanks for all the detailed tutorials,taking the time to help the people trying to get good results from an otherwise confusing/tricky undertaking as refinishing a guitar. This is off subject to this current video,but I'm getting ready to clear coat a project electric guitar for my grandson,using Rust-Oleum×2 matte, he's decided he'd like some certain themed stickers on it ,will my clear coat be compatible with any kind of waterslides,or vinyls? Thanks for any help.
There can be compatibility issues with decals. Sometimes they wrinkle under clear. I don’t think the rustoleum will cause you too many problems though.
Thank you very much sir, I guess I'll order some extra decales and do some tests before we do the guitar. I used your tutorial on striping with gloss and matte -od green with black stripes, going for a WW2 fighter plane theme,shark mouth and bullet holes. So far it looks pretty good,thanks again.
Hey Brad, I'm thinking of buying one of those Rikon Buffers - do you think it would drive 10 - 12" wheels, with two on each side?
The flannel wheels two on a side provide a wider buffing surface, but I'm not sure if that motor will drive them...
Please let me know what you think.
I get the sense that it probably wouldn’t do a very effective job of that. I’m planning on doubling up the 8” wheels, but it’s probably going to stall out occasionally with those.
First use GW16 and then P175.
Hey Brad, I’m doing a striped paint job and where I peeled tape there are ridges. Using dupilcolor perfect match lacquer. Will the clear melt some of that or should I do a light sand. Top coat is pearl white so I’m kind of afraid it wilmaffect the finish by sanding. Thanks
If it’s pearl you may just need to bury those ridges. Do a few clear coats, let them harden, sand to nearly flat, and then repeat to finish it off.
@@BradAngove awesome thanks man!
Brad, I have a question. I know you're familiar with the guitar oil that you get from Crimson in the short steel bottle. If I was to put that on a guitar is there any way that I could shoot clear over top of the Finish after it soaks in? It's all mahogany Gibson SG Style I love the look it gives the mahogany.
You may be able to clear coat over that, but if you use an oil based clear I think you’ll find it gives you a similar look without the intervening step.
@@BradAngove when you say intervening step are you talkin about using the oil? Thanks a lot for your advice as usual I really appreciate you buddy
Yes, I meant the oil haha.
@@BradAngove I just wanted to ask a stupid question so you didn't forget I was turning 60 on Monday LMAO cheers brother
Hahaha well happy early birthday
The guitar is looking great Brad. What a pity about the burn through but you did great considering this was not your normal way of buffing. It shows character to not hide making mistakes and to turn this into a learning moment for us too. There are hundreds of content showing me how to do the perfect finish but little showing us how to deal when its not so perfect. I look forward to the follow up repair. Would love to see it neck on as if it were an existing guitar repair but I feel you're making it too hard on yourself so I'd be ok with it off.
Thanks Mark. I appreciate your comment.
I can't say that I speak for everyone, but I watch your videos because I want to know how to do things during the building process, rather than working on something that's already fully assembled. Thus, I'd say fix it before assembly.
Thanks, that perspective is helpful.
What kind of buffer are you using?
Rikon low speed buffer.
Hello! Is it ok to use an NGR penetrating wood stain on an acoustic guitar? I have bought one online but I'm worried it could muffle my guitar or something. The plan is to stain both fretboard and body and then apply clear lacquer top coat on the body
Yes, that dye doesn’t have any “body” to it. It shouldn’t change anything sound-wise.
@@BradAngove thanks a lot. Might start next week
First, may I assume that you would repair the flaw the same way whether repaired now or after the guitar is assembled? (Excluding prep work being more demanding on the assembled guitar). So to answer your question, if the repair is identical, just do it now and take the guitar to completion. Too many projects at once affects quality and disrupts a person's thought processes...at least it does mine, he he.
Your assumption is correct, the repair method would be essentially the same.
Hmmmmmmm.