As a 45 yr professional drywall taping specialist all purpose for taping because of the glue and hardening for structure.Ultra light weight cannot be beat for bed coating and skim coating.Super smooth and easy to sand.And no mesh tape, cracks !
I use durabond 90 on everything for 1st coat!! If you don't like to sand don't use it unless you are good!! I have been using it for over 40 years and it is what makes my jobs so good!!
I used durabond 90, applied thick, to replace a section of broken lath & plaster. It's a good substitute for plaster if you can't find structolite or real plaster, whatever real plaster is. I finished it with all purpose. Turned out great!
Damn so many choices. I'm just going to stick to 5 minute to prefill 45 for taping with fiberfuse and 45 for topping. That's it. Just need two types of bags in my car. I feel like plus three shrinks way too much and all purpose takes too long to dry. I want to get my tapeing and topping done in one day. Now granted it's usually just a bathroom or a kitchen so anything larger than you would probably want to use buckets. What I would like to see from you is how you apply each mud for each stage of the drywall mudding process.
This is super helpful. I love hearing the differences with all of them. I am a DIY but have made some mistakes and had the hard ones (AP) on the taping and it was a bear to sand. LOL. I still need to work on technique of course. Thanks.
In depth explanations of the materials, uses and personal experiences of performance/ the way the products respond. Lot of great information, keep these format videos on some of the other stuff in the trade
This is EXTREMELY helpful and has answered and solved the failing issues that I have experienced with the use of varying compounds. I've used AP with mesh and it turned out exactly as you explained. Shrinkage covering screws...as you explained. Painting over hot mud...as you explained. It all makes complete sense to me now and this particular post is the missing piece to my puzzle. I know for a fact that my next finish is going to be AMAZING because of this🙆♂...thank you Short One (of walls that are dried) 🙏
Thanks. Didn't do research on mud when I did my wife's craft room. Did her whole room in AP. Sanded forever. It came out good, lots of sanding. Doing kitchen now. Gonna do AP for tape and plus 3 for other layers. 🥃🥃
I like to use 20 minute mud for patching i use a drill with a beater and mix it in my mud pan then scrape the sides down with a 6 inch knife and mix again takes 95 percent of the lumps out
Great video. Good information however most of the muds you coverd are usually only available in large urban areas. I live in a very rural area so we only get AP or topping at our local Ace Hardware. I had to talk them in to carrying hot mud. 20 minute or 90 minute is as far as they'd go lol. Love your work. Keep at it.
Pretty much agree with everything you said. All purpose for tape and plus 3 for all other finishing stages. only difference for me is I use all purpose for a base coat the adhere corner beed then top with plus 3. hot mud for blowouts and general drywall patching
It’s interesting how different things are other places. We only use yellow and red boxes. Fastex blue boxes for the spray rig. I’ve never even seen the green box
I don't know if they sell it where you are, but here in Canada, machine mud, sheet rock 20, and sheet rock 45 are the go-to bags and boxes. We are painters, but we board, mud, tape, and finish with machine mud and sheetrock all the time.
Wonderful explanation thank you so much. My dad loved drywall and did it to all the houses that he built it was his favorite part like he was frosting on cake. He used to use just the general use covering just the top with a little bit of palm, olive and water. When he used it for texture, he would add water and a cheap acrylic enamel to hold a texture. What are your thoughts on this?
before there was "hot muds" we combined all purpose with water and moulding plaster which depending on the ratios dries exceptionally fast and can be recoated quickly and another bonus is it doesnt shrink at all . this method is far more economical than any hot muds .
Its the OG for me lol been using green lid for ten years, youre not wrong its hard and makes you a lot neater. I tried blue top once and it seemed like i had touch ups everywhere. Maybe i was doing it wrong, doesnt help i sand with led lights and check from all angles lol
@@James-qc9gh where I'm from we have been getting two different types of mud in the same green sheetrock buckets as if it's coming from two different factories. The lighter the color the better it sands, the grey mud is junk
Great video, very informative. Just for clarity, I use hot mud with Fibafuse all the time with amazing results. It doesn’t need to be used with mesh tape only. Give it a try
I wish we could get boxed mud in Australia. It looks l I’ll e it’s good to work with in all the you tubes I watch. I’ve tried so many times with the powder stuff and every time I end up with three quarters of it thrown out cos it had set up
cracks in the flats and but joints or cracks in sheetrock it self. if it's in the taped joints make sure it's enough mud under the tape to properly bond it to the wall. somthing to consider is when you hang the ceilings use drywall adhesive and make sure to have the guys use the proper amount of screws. it's a small step that helps with nail pops and cracking.
Have you ever tried prefilling with a nail spotter on butt joints? I get that nobody really owns one anymore because they don't work on screws so well. We used to do that. Saves a ton of time, especially on ceilings. I'd have my parter rig up a pole with a knife and back wipe so there wasn't any build up before the tape. Also, we did make it work on ceiling screws, just back wipe in the opposite direction. You can pay me later 😂
What is the best option for building up an outside 45 (135). Framing at my house is very poor. I did what I could to shim, however, still going to have to build up in order to meet in the corners. Any advice would be awesome.
For over 20 years I’ve been using all purpose mud in the plastic buckets for all stages of drywall in my diy stuff. I just thought that rock hard (impossible to sand) joint compound was a law of the universe. Imagining my elation the first time I tried plus3 😂
Which one should I use It's my first time using it I did my Little basement bathroom. So a lot of people won't see. It is just a toilet and a sink in there? So pretty much looking for something to tape with And to cover Up my screws with and whatever Step come next before I can prime and paint. So which, what do you recommend me to go with? I'm just confused on which one to pick I am just a first time person.
You are a great teacher where did you learn all that shit back in the day the old guys did not tel all ha ha we some time wood put floor pack in the mud but doesn't paint well dry fast a d hard 😉
USG literally now has one called, TOTAL. They describe it as “complete all purpose,” which isn’t redundant … that’s just your imagination. I expect them to next introduce “COMPLETE,” followed by, “DONT’T EVEN THINK ABOUT USING ANYTHING ELSE.”
Awesome break down on mud types and uses. I got a home reno DIY going on and it's been years since I've finished any drywall. I'm planning on changing all of my doorways to arched tops with either chamfer or bullnose corner beads. Any tips?
Chamfer is really neat looking! I love it! Make sure whatever you choose that they have it in stock or they can get order it for you. Sometimes they don't have the specialty products like chamfer in stock.
@@DrywallShorty DIY Stores near me only have traditional corner. So I will have to special order it. Are there supply houses for drywall? Could check there.
Jesus Christ I never knew there was such a large selection in drywall mud.... The little times that I have done drywall it's been for personal use can I use all-purpose in the plastic jug, after listen to her explain the mud I think next time I'm better off buying it dry and I mix it
@@DrywallShortySimply suggest DIYers use green lid/taping mud as it will help lessen the chance of tape bubbles due to the extra adhesive, IMO, not to mention a stronger base that's less likely to crack and finally it's just the professional thing to do. I do not see professional finishers using lite AP for taping and I imagine there's a good reason for it. Just trying to help the DIYers out based on my experience. Im not a pro, just a DIYer. If I recall correctly, you use green lid for taping, at least that's what you've recommended using in previous videos?
I don't imagine you disagree with my 1st comment, and you said in the video you don't tape with +3 but it's OK to tape with 'all purpose lite' (isn't +3 an lite AP?) so I'm just curious now why you suggest APL but not +3 (Not being a jerk, seeking to learn from a pro, would like to hear your thoughts/input on this 👍).
Green is great to tape with - one thing I always caution is that it sets very hard. If you're really messy it can cause issues later. You need to make sure you clean up after and don't have drops of mud all over. Depending on the job, the season and how much heat is supplied will change what were taping with. During the winter we have longer working times when taping so we will use AP, it also tends to dry faster so we know everything will be set the next day. During the summer we switch the lightweight taping. It has more working time so we can tape out 4 rooms of angles and then fall back and pick the 3 ways without worrying about it being partially dry. Lightweight taping is really nice to tape with, it has a ton of glue and a strong bond, hence why it's specifically made for taping with. We do not do any coat work with Lightweight taping, it shrinks too much and isn't made for coat work. After taping we switch to Plus 3 for the top and skim work. It coats very nicely, sands easily and has great slip. For texture we then switch to using Beadex all purpose (red box) or if doing a spray texture Fastex.
Shes just causing more confusion for the DIY people and spewing sales BS. You can do a whole house with 90 hotmud and all purpose. No need for the confusion. Both of which you can find at any big box store.
Meh, she gave a very useful overview of different types and purposes. They didn't denigrate competitors nor suggest these are the only options. I will happily accept this kind of sponsored content; a trade of reasonable brand exposure for useful information.
I was just wondering cuz there's so many different kinds now I'm old-school just dura Bond 90 and brown bags and white, but there's so many different kinds.. Thanks
As a 45 yr professional drywall taping specialist all purpose for taping because of the glue and hardening for structure.Ultra light weight cannot be beat for bed coating and skim coating.Super smooth and easy to sand.And no mesh tape, cracks !
Mesh tape doesn’t crack if you use hot mud to bond it because its much stickier and sturdier
I use durabond 90 on everything for 1st coat!! If you don't like to sand don't use it unless you are good!! I have been using it for over 40 years and it is what makes my jobs so good!!
Absolutely agree 100%
Yeah steve, I even use it in my corn flakes! 😆 😯 😂
I used durabond 90, applied thick, to replace a section of broken lath & plaster. It's a good substitute for plaster if you can't find structolite or real plaster, whatever real plaster is. I finished it with all purpose. Turned out great!
Yes 100% durabond 90 for setting tape and filling bead. Only way to go in my opinion.
Damn so many choices. I'm just going to stick to 5 minute to prefill 45 for taping with fiberfuse and 45 for topping. That's it. Just need two types of bags in my car. I feel like plus three shrinks way too much and all purpose takes too long to dry. I want to get my tapeing and topping done in one day.
Now granted it's usually just a bathroom or a kitchen so anything larger than you would probably want to use buckets.
What I would like to see from you is how you apply each mud for each stage of the drywall mudding process.
Thank you for the detailed video! I am a DYIer and just left the big box store and needed an expert to give me a clue on what to purchase!!!
You are so welcome! Glad it helped!
This is super helpful. I love hearing the differences with all of them. I am a DIY but have made some mistakes and had the hard ones (AP) on the taping and it was a bear to sand. LOL. I still need to work on technique of course. Thanks.
In depth explanations of the materials, uses and personal experiences of performance/ the way the products respond. Lot of great information, keep these format videos on some of the other stuff in the trade
Thank you!
This is EXTREMELY helpful and has answered and solved the failing issues that I have experienced with the use of varying compounds. I've used AP with mesh and it turned out exactly as you explained. Shrinkage covering screws...as you explained. Painting over hot mud...as you explained. It all makes complete sense to me now and this particular post is the missing piece to my puzzle. I know for a fact that my next finish is going to be AMAZING because of this🙆♂...thank you Short One (of walls that are dried) 🙏
As someone who nerds out on every subject I get into I really really appreciate this video thank you ❤
Thanks. Didn't do research on mud when I did my wife's craft room. Did her whole room in AP. Sanded forever. It came out good, lots of sanding. Doing kitchen now. Gonna do AP for tape and plus 3 for other layers. 🥃🥃
I like to use 20 minute mud for patching i use a drill with a beater and mix it in my mud pan then scrape the sides down with a 6 inch knife and mix again takes 95 percent of the lumps out
Great video. Good information however most of the muds you coverd are usually only available in large urban areas. I live in a very rural area so we only get AP or topping at our local Ace Hardware. I had to talk them in to carrying hot mud. 20 minute or 90 minute is as far as they'd go lol. Love your work. Keep at it.
Thank you! And bummer about the available options, maybe you can talk them into carrying some plus 3!
so much valuable info, this is a mini masterclass in drywall. every second is value.
U put out great videos, Lydia. You're very thorough & explain in detail. I find you very interesting & u are very good at your trade! 👍
Pretty much agree with everything you said. All purpose for tape and plus 3 for all other finishing stages. only difference for me is I use all purpose for a base coat the adhere corner beed then top with plus 3. hot mud for blowouts and general drywall patching
When she says for tape, are you talking about to apply the tape use the one or over the tape?
@@shotbyrometo apply the tape
Excellent explanation on the different types of mud! Kudos!! 🎉. Just earned a subscriber. Good quality content right here. Thank you Shorty! ❤
Thanks for the subscription! Happy to help!
I only ever see all purpose and lightweight in stores. Blue and green.
It’s interesting how different things are other places. We only use yellow and red boxes. Fastex blue boxes for the spray rig. I’ve never even seen the green box
Really that's all you need, all purpose for base coats and light to finish
Good 4 u nerd
I don't know if they sell it where you are, but here in Canada, machine mud, sheet rock 20, and sheet rock 45 are the go-to bags and boxes.
We are painters, but we board, mud, tape, and finish with machine mud and sheetrock all the time.
I’m remodeling a bathroom/laundry room. This was a huge help.
She said you don’t need any of her tips for small jobs. Get yourself some all purpose lite and you can do any job start to finish with it
You are absolutely amazing! Thank you for the great video. Helps a DIYer like me a ton!
Thank you!! So glad it helps!
You are truly the BEST…
Wonderful explanation thank you so much. My dad loved drywall and did it to all the houses that he built it was his favorite part like he was frosting on cake. He used to use just the general use covering just the top with a little bit of palm, olive and water. When he used it for texture, he would add water and a cheap acrylic enamel to hold a texture. What are your thoughts on this?
before there was "hot muds" we combined all purpose with water and moulding plaster which depending on the ratios dries exceptionally fast and can be recoated quickly and another bonus is it doesnt shrink at all . this method is far more economical than any hot muds .
Its the OG for me lol been using green lid for ten years, youre not wrong its hard and makes you a lot neater. I tried blue top once and it seemed like i had touch ups everywhere. Maybe i was doing it wrong, doesnt help i sand with led lights and check from all angles lol
Blue shrinks a lot more than green.
@@James-qc9gh where I'm from we have been getting two different types of mud in the same green sheetrock buckets as if it's coming from two different factories. The lighter the color the better it sands, the grey mud is junk
I like mixing the og green all purpose and the plus 3 blue to shoot orange peel and knockdown.
I had some 3 year old plus 3 in a bucket that I watered down and used. Bad mistake!
I had no idea it had a shelf life.
You rock! This is the best video on drywall products.
So all purpose for screws, filling joints and applying tape then plus 3 for the rest of the top coats?
Always appreciate your teaching and sharing your knowledge. Thank you.
In NOLA we have All Purpose and Plus 3. Every once in awhile, Ultra Lightweight, but it's rare to find.
Great video, very informative. Just for clarity, I use hot mud with Fibafuse all the time with amazing results. It doesn’t need to be used with mesh tape only. Give it a try
I wish we could get boxed mud in Australia. It looks l I’ll e it’s good to work with in all the you tubes I watch.
I’ve tried so many times with the powder stuff and every time I end up with three quarters of it thrown out cos it had set up
I believe the only ones of these muds! Where I live Is The green AP Plus 3 and the light green ultra lightweight! And of course easy sand hot muds!
You make great videos. If I had to coat an entire wall that was damaged by a wall paper removal guy, what product would you recommend?
Nice video. Great explanation.
I flip. When repairing ceiling we get cracks over and over & over. What mud is best. Florida humidity. What are we doing wrong
cracks in the flats and but joints or cracks in sheetrock it self. if it's in the taped joints make sure it's enough mud under the tape to properly bond it to the wall. somthing to consider is when you hang the ceilings use drywall adhesive and make sure to have the guys use the proper amount of screws. it's a small step that helps with nail pops and cracking.
@@swordoftruth7862 thanks
Flipping houses is wrong. 😂
I love the hot mud for orange peel. I’ve never had a single issue.
Very helpful video! What mud do you prefer for skim coating previously painted walls?
Ive only ever seen the green and blue lids, dust control, and the easy sands. Never seen silver set.
The Pro Form is the best compound out there. There is no need for buckets off All-purpose & Plus 3. The Pro Form does them all.
Good video. Have you tried the Total? I like it better than the All Purpose. Same weight but better slip and easier to sand.
Hi . I learned something new today. thank you
Awesome! Hope it helps!
May I ask, which one would you use for level five?
Laugh out loud you answered it thank 4:09
Have you ever tried prefilling with a nail spotter on butt joints? I get that nobody really owns one anymore because they don't work on screws so well. We used to do that. Saves a ton of time, especially on ceilings. I'd have my parter rig up a pole with a knife and back wipe so there wasn't any build up before the tape. Also, we did make it work on ceiling screws, just back wipe in the opposite direction. You can pay me later 😂
I have heard of that! I don't use a nail spotter very often, we don't sand our screws very often so I do them by hand and keep them super clean
What is the best option for building up an outside 45 (135). Framing at my house is very poor. I did what I could to shim, however, still going to have to build up in order to meet in the corners. Any advice would be awesome.
For over 20 years I’ve been using all purpose mud in the plastic buckets for all stages of drywall in my diy stuff.
I just thought that rock hard (impossible to sand) joint compound was a law of the universe.
Imagining my elation the first time I tried plus3 😂
I love Bozeman i was born there. I miss Bogart park and the pickle barrel
I have always found all-purpose to sand very easily and the fast setting difficult to sand.
Thanks. I did learn something today!
Here is Canada there's red, light blue, dark blue, yellow and green...The one mostly used here is Mud Pro
Which one should I use It's my first time using it I did my Little basement bathroom. So a lot of people won't see. It is just a toilet and a sink in there? So pretty much looking for something to tape with And to cover Up my screws with and whatever Step come next before I can prime and paint.
So which, what do you recommend me to go with? I'm just confused on which one to pick I am just a first time person.
I live up in canada so I don't know if you're familiar with cgc machine mud? If so, what are your thoughts on it? Thanks for the videos!
Thank you very much for this informative video.
I prefer to sweep up after the sanders, sift the gravel out, add water and whip it back into mud. Saves money, and saves the environment
As all trades they use one type material more than the other label these in percentages which you use the most
Good stuff, sis!! Thank you!!!
So what powder would you use for level five finish ?
"We pre-fill our butts"
lol (Yes, I have the sense of humor of a 10 year old)
You are a great teacher where did you learn all that shit back in the day the old guys did not tel all ha ha we some time wood put floor pack in the mud but doesn't paint well dry fast a d hard 😉
is easy sand 20 good for 2nd final 😮coating on big patches?
I’ve seen some pros mix AP and hot mud together. Why do they do that?
USG literally now has one called, TOTAL. They describe it as “complete all purpose,” which isn’t redundant … that’s just your imagination.
I expect them to next introduce “COMPLETE,” followed by, “DONT’T EVEN THINK ABOUT USING ANYTHING ELSE.”
Thank you ! Super helpful.
Can I or do you add water to any one of these products..?
do you recommend the fastex for knockdown texture as well?
100% agree that its all useless unless you mud for a living on really big jobs that require over 20boxes of mud at least to get the job done
Great info thanks for the info
And I do get a lot of knowledge from Watching your videos so thank you for that
1. Learn how to best use what’s available.
2. Most of these won’t be available where you live.
Just subscribed 👍
thank you!
Thank you
Useful video thanks
3.5 gal regular is 48 lbs. Light is 30. Gonna take that 30.
Awesome break down on mud types and uses. I got a home reno DIY going on and it's been years since I've finished any drywall.
I'm planning on changing all of my doorways to arched tops with either chamfer or bullnose corner beads. Any tips?
Chamfer is really neat looking! I love it! Make sure whatever you choose that they have it in stock or they can get order it for you. Sometimes they don't have the specialty products like chamfer in stock.
@@DrywallShorty DIY Stores near me only have traditional corner. So I will have to special order it. Are there supply houses for drywall? Could check there.
I meant to say I'm one of my comments at the end of it I never get sick of a Play
Jesus Christ I never knew there was such a large selection in drywall mud.... The little times that I have done drywall it's been for personal use can I use all-purpose in the plastic jug, after listen to her explain the mud I think next time I'm better off buying it dry and I mix it
U da 💣 gf! How you feel about Durabond?
There is only one brand. Ruco straight out of the bucket.
You never even had regular old fashioned topping...
USG is ok. I prefer CGC
👍👍
🤓👍
Plus 3 sucks, its like marshmallow cream
Please, please, PLEASE do NOT use anything but taping lite or USG green lid to tape, PLEASE!
I would like to know why you think taping lite or USG All purpose are the only good options?
@@DrywallShortySimply suggest DIYers use green lid/taping mud as it will help lessen the chance of tape bubbles due to the extra adhesive, IMO, not to mention a stronger base that's less likely to crack and finally it's just the professional thing to do. I do not see professional finishers using lite AP for taping and I imagine there's a good reason for it. Just trying to help the DIYers out based on my experience. Im not a pro, just a DIYer. If I recall correctly, you use green lid for taping, at least that's what you've recommended using in previous videos?
I don't imagine you disagree with my 1st comment, and you said in the video you don't tape with +3 but it's OK to tape with 'all purpose lite' (isn't +3 an lite AP?) so I'm just curious now why you suggest APL but not +3 (Not being a jerk, seeking to learn from a pro, would like to hear your thoughts/input on this 👍).
Green is great to tape with - one thing I always caution is that it sets very hard. If you're really messy it can cause issues later. You need to make sure you clean up after and don't have drops of mud all over. Depending on the job, the season and how much heat is supplied will change what were taping with. During the winter we have longer working times when taping so we will use AP, it also tends to dry faster so we know everything will be set the next day. During the summer we switch the lightweight taping. It has more working time so we can tape out 4 rooms of angles and then fall back and pick the 3 ways without worrying about it being partially dry. Lightweight taping is really nice to tape with, it has a ton of glue and a strong bond, hence why it's specifically made for taping with. We do not do any coat work with Lightweight taping, it shrinks too much and isn't made for coat work. After taping we switch to Plus 3 for the top and skim work. It coats very nicely, sands easily and has great slip. For texture we then switch to using Beadex all purpose (red box) or if doing a spray texture Fastex.
@@DrywallShorty Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
hataa alwaqt alhaliu latujad ladayna 'adawat mutatawiruh hataa alwaqt alhalii latujad ladayna 'adawat mutatawiruhu.
She is very trayned I think
Shes just causing more confusion for the DIY people and spewing sales BS. You can do a whole house with 90 hotmud and all purpose. No need for the confusion. Both of which you can find at any big box store.
Clearly a sponsored video. Looking elsewhere for honest advice.
Meh, she gave a very useful overview of different types and purposes.
They didn't denigrate competitors nor suggest these are the only options. I will happily accept this kind of sponsored content; a trade of reasonable brand exposure for useful information.
@@UnderBakedOverEngineered good go make your own thread and leave a positive comment and leave me alone
I was just wondering cuz there's so many different kinds now I'm old-school just dura Bond 90 and brown bags and white, but there's so many different kinds.. Thanks
No problem!
can the plus 3 be used to roll on texture with a roller
Sure can , it’s just a little softer so it might not hold the texture pattern as well
How to chose?
thanks for the heads up, just got it changed. Trusted spell check for that one, haha!
Thank you for the great information.