If the Jeep keeps blowing cool air on heat, after you've done these steps you have a air lock in the two heater core hoses. Zip tie them together to make them straight and drive it. Then add more antifreeze. This video and this step works for 3.8 and 3.6.
Remember that the $3-4 flush kit will direct you to splice into the top line. This is reverse flushing, so use the bottom line as indicated. Worked like a charm. I flushed system after this with Preston flush and clean using the bottom line - no difference in doing so.
Thank you for that! I was wondering the same thing and as to why he was splicing into it making it more difficult and time consuming. Appreciate the heads up!
Great video! An easier way to drain the overflow reservoir... 1. Open the Overflow Reservoir cap. 2. Disconnect the overflow hose from the radiator cap. 3. Hook the hose up to a Shop Vac (Wet and Dry Vac) and vacuum all of the coolant out of the bottle. (I just stuck the overflow hose in the Shop Vac hose and used my hand to seal it while it pulled out the coolant. I've used this same method to reverse drain\flush the heater core with great success.)
All of you need to start reading the technical service manuals…for starters flushing the engine does not require cutting anything. You pull the top radiator hose and thermostat, disconnect the bottom radiator hose from the water pump and use a flush gun. You can flush the heater core using the two hoses disconnected from the engine side and, again, not cut anything. The radiator must have vacuum pulled to remove air from the system as well collapsing the upper and lower hoses when refilling. All you diy’ers are causing more problems than you’re fixing. Also, that coolant didn’t look that bad. Alot of coolant is maroon from the factory. My 2018 JK looks exactly like that with 40k miles. I am amazed at how long these things stay on the road given the shade tree mechanics.
Good video, Thanks. The coolant types are confusing anymore. FYI My 2012 Jeep uses HOAT but I think that was the last year. My 2014 Ram uses OAT and your not supposed to mix them so make sure and check your owners manual. I think I'm going to flush both and put Prestone in both which is supposed to be OAT. And remember coolant is toxic and can't be dumped, most larger cities have a Household Hazardous Waste Facility that will take it. Thanks again.
Nice to see that your neighbors don't mind you taking up 1/4 of the street when you have all that driveway to use in front of your house lol Nice video!
Tear down the entire front end to get a wrench on that drain valve where you can get enough torque to turn it past 90. I found it easier to just unbolt the radiator remove the hoses and pull the entire radiator out. If you have a Rubicon the sway bar disconnect motor is blocking where you can get your hand in there.
Tap water will ruin an engine doesn't make a difference how close to the source you are. At least it's not staying in the radiator only using for a flush but I myself wouldn't use it at all.
witchesbru67, you can do that if you use an extra hose to connect to the block because you flush both directions. The flush must be inline with the system.
Thank you for the comment. I only needed the one gallon container of Zerex G-05. Be sure to use the pure concentrate type and not the Ready to Use type.
I figured for my 16 qt sys (5.7) was two qts of full strenght coolant which gives/makes the solution would be close to half and half. Not counting the over-flow tank and heater core and lines capacity (I figure approx another 3-4 qts half&half). Bottom line, approx 2 1/2 gal of full strenght fluid. Kevin, Thks for Ur patients doing the vid, good points to stay in-mind.
I really liked this. Thanks for showing the entire process. But, given you have a cold air intake wouldn't it be best to cover the filter so you don't suck in any of that water into the engine?
Just curious, if you turn the heater on fully while flushing the engine will it also flush the heater core? or do you have to flush the heater core separately like in this video? Thanks.
I'd like to know this as well. I was hoping that if you 1. drain old coolant, 2. fill with distilled water 3. turn on engine and heaters 4. drain distilled water, then repeat 2-4 until drained fluid is clear, then it does it all?
I'm still a bit fuzzy in what Kevin did to the heater hose to do his flush. But good question here. Some vehicles had actual mechanical water-flow gates that require actuations to 'open' to allow water to circulate back to/thru the block. I believe I had such heat control on my '77 PU 460cid. Maybe there are readers here that has such aged vehicles that need a flush. Failure prone air-gates have been married to the auto for years and are getting better.
It's the Peak Flush and Fill kit. I got mine at Auto Zone. Likely available at many auto parts stores. There is also a Prestone version exactly the same. Just search PKFOAA on Google.
Please watch the whole video. The T is added before flushing the heater core to keep the hoses together, then removed during flushing the core. Later, the T is added to flush the engine.
Be very very careful in making only approx a 90. Several yrs ago on one of my Rams, at a qick-lube, the monkey was NOT aware the 'open flow' turn was NOT 240 degrees. To replace that sucker came only w/a new radiator. Back then the MFG was not molding the fitting w/a 90 degree swing slot. Now, today, I do not think that valve is replacable on/to the rad while on the vehicle.
Great video, but is there any other way to flush the heater core without cutting the heater core hose. Because now when you splice in a connector of some sort to repair the hose hose you just cut, there is the possibility of it leaking. I'm just spit ballin' here but I highly doubt my local chain mechanic is cutting people heater core hoses.
Service centers, such as at your local dealer, use coolant flushing machines that range from $2k to $4k. You can search "Coolant Flush Machine" here to find some video examples. My understanding is they connect to the upper radiator hose and start by flushing the radiator while the engine is on. Once the thermostat opens, the machine can then flush the remaining coolant system.
BTW, you are correct that using the included adapter can introduce a leak down the road and have seen it before. When that happens I change the adapter to an appropriate inner diameter hose extension adapter. It is not difficult to swap between the 2 port extension and back to the 3 port flush adapter when time for another flush.
You can isolate the heater core by unplugging both lines and running water through the hoses. You could also buy an extra tube and splice the T connector to original hose, spare hose to water pump when flushing the pump.
This a great time to remove the stat, clean the corrosion that is eating it away, and check if the stat should be R&R, In many cases the supporting hose and thermostat hold-down piece should be replaced too.
My question is not related to flushing. I work at autozone. We sell cold air intake build kits for kN. Did u actually notice any benefit worth the expense. I know they are costly. Did u install it yourself?
Prior to re-gearing, we only noticed a little difference. The 35's still caused the Jeep to drive like a slug. It did help a bit at full throttle going up hill and sounds awesome. The biggest difference was re-gearing so you should probably start there first.
@@conniebennett6646 I have a total of 3 K&N cold air intakes across three vehicles. I find that you either get slight performance increases or gas mileage increases, depending on how you drive. For me, either I have a lead foot or am pulling (trailering) more weight. If you drive without requiring that extra performance increase (i.e. daily light driving), you'll get 1-2 MPG increase. Don't expect a great deal but based on today's gas costs, likely still worth it in the long term.
Don’t feel bad, my jeep TJ original water pump only lasted 52,000 miles. Put another Mopar OEM water pump in and just changed it this weekend at 98,000 miles. Smh.
Are the hoses set up the same on a 2015 jk? Different motor. Planning on flushing this weekend but its my first time doing this. I feel confident after watching this video, but want to make sure hose setup is the same. Also, if you re fill with 50/50 after flushing system with water, will I not have my 5050 mix in the end? What will I most likely end up with? Also, how many bottles of fluid is required to re fil after a flush? (Of pure coolant) Thanks!
I can't speak for the 2015 but there should always be an input and output to the heater core. Should not matter which as I have never come across any flow controls within the core. Not sure if the hoses are located on the same side but you should find them close to each other going from the engine bay, through the firewall, to the cabin. I do not use 50/50. I flush the system which leaves some water in the system. I poor full concentrate into the radiator. I then top off the radiator with water which is about the same amount as the full concentrate. I then check the boil point with the meter after that. You should be close and can adjust accordingly in the overflow tank. Yes, after flushing you can use 50/50, but it'll take you two large containers, and maybe a little more concentrate as I said there is some water in the system from the flush.
Very little. Mainly gave it a more throaty sound. We finally re-geared to 4.88 and huge difference. Still breaking in but will be interesting if the K&N shows a noticeable difference once we can really press on the gas.
Is there a way you could do this without disconnecting the hoses and just open the radiator drain valve and feed the hose into the overflow tank, start it and let the water pump do the work? Wouldn't this eventually flush the system clean including the water pump, heater core and engine water passages? Asking because I want to do this on a 220k km JK which needs a new radiator. On another note this is the first major repair item I've had with this car. Well out of warranty now and want to DYI.
@@andrewhood9246, The problem with not flushing on the other end of the engine is the thermostat and water pump may not allow the water to flow, especially through the heater core.
Ok jeep guys i screwed up, only because I'm a new jeep owner.. i have a 2012 jeep wrangler sport.. i started to loose heat couple weeks ago. so i watched a few RUclips videos how to flush the heater coil. i flushed it fine and got heat back.. after that i checked the antifreeze seeing it was low.. i added some to the radiator. the jeep started to over heat going pass half to the next mark.. it has never gotten into the red.. so i changed the thermostat, and the coolant sensor on the motor.. ok still over heating.. come to find out i had used the OAT coolant.. when it should be the HOAT coolant.. my question is when i go to flush the motor and radiator and put the HOAT back in do you guys think it will stop the over heating issues or did i just screw up my whole damn motor..
No problems with our 3.8 except for the EGR sensor going bad at about 80k. Easy fix and now at around 100k. I do like the extra power in the 3.6 though.
@@dano0726 The EGR sensor is part of the EGR valve. Yes, I replaced the whole unit which is between the firewall and rear passenger side of 3.6 engine. 3.8 should be the same. Easy for me as I have the aftermarket fenders and can easily remove the fender liner. Then it's a matter of turning the wheel fully to the left and blindly getting a 1/4" deep socket back there. The wire harness is a bit of a pain but the two bolts holding the valve isn't bad.
Does this effectively clean out the casting sand that is causing so many issues? I've replaced my heater core and radiator already on my 2009 and need to do something as it is already starting to blow hot only on one side. I'm afraid I am heading to another leaking heater core due to a severe clog.
Hey Kev, Great video. I only did the first part of this on my 2010 at 70K. I flushed the radiator and engine(?) and refilled with the same fluid. I didnt do the heater core at the time. Im having problems with my jeep overheating to about 3/4 when im idling. Any ideas? Should I replace the thermostat?
I'd start there. You can pull the thermostat and test it in boiling water to see what temperature it opens, if at all. The temp should be stamped on the thermostat, otherwise see the temp specifications on a new OEM replacement. If the thermo is opening correctly, you could have some blockage slowing the flow of fluid through the system (i.e. heater core). If this was the case, you might see the Jeep cool down while revving higher but while still parked. This should cause the water pump to push the fluid harder. Keep in mind your fan too. The fan should kick on to help cool the fluid in the radiator, thus cool the engine, especially while stopped and idling.
@@symantec1176 The Fan is SUPER LOUD on idle. Like its a jet engine, so i'm assuming the fan is working? I'm going to replace the thermostat all together instead of troubleshooting it. It wont hurt to do that anyways. I've also replaced the water pump within the last year when I did the flush, so i can rule that out. I will try the rev on idle and see if my temp drops at all. I appreciate the quick response. My last question would be, when I remove the thermostat I will lose some fluid.... Should I just top off the reservoir after the installation with 50/50 fluid and water or what would be the proper procedure here?
Sounds like the fan is working. Good chance your thermostat is sticking a bit and opening at a higher temp than it should be. Good place to start. You shouldn't lose much fluid. Just make sure you're maxed on your overflow reservoir (50/50) and it'll balance out after awhile. Just keep an eye on it after a day or two of driving. If I recall, you can squeeze the upper radiator hose (use rag as can get hot) and if it is easily squeezed, the thermostat is closed. Once the thermostat reaches temp, you'll feel the rush of fluid and hose expansion due to water pressure. Another useful tip is a code reader in live view. You can monitor the engine temp and watch it rise and then cool once the thermo opens. Then drops and see it close, and repeat. Gives you a good baseline (min / max) as to what is going on.
@@symantec1176 This is all super useful and I appreciate you taking the time on this. When I have the chance to get to this, I will report back with what I did and my results, just in case someone like me in the future needs the info. Enjoy your weekend!
Kevin Abriam so here's an update and probably the first thing that should be checked. My reservoir is stained so I thought I had fluid in it (I didn't). Opened up the radiator cap (cold of course) and started the jeep, very low. Filled it to the neck, let it run filled it to the neck until it equalized. Let it run then filled the reservoir to min. Thermostat did its job. I will keep this information in my pocket for the future. Thanks again. (I know, I should've actually checked the fluid first).
Arron, Ck the owner's manual for your system's coolant's capacity and on average most systems are serviced toward the mark, half&half. Now, I use distilled right out of the gate, w/clean water pressure pump, pushing distilled (pressurized at input) thur the block and heater core, using approx 3-4 gallon for the flush till clear running, then on , don't concern yourself, keeping in mind half&half, using approximations, pour the full strength coolant in, cap it, keep checking a day or two after a bit running, circulation, review the coolant weight till you get the colored BBs at your needed mark on the weight scale. I believe the radiatorr capacity is figured in w/the number the owners' manual gives for sys capacity.
ummm this is not correct. "Coolant" actually conducts/transfers heat just as well as H2O (water). Your adding water to reduce the specific gravity of the coolant mixture.
so technically, it is relocated? I'm just wondering because it was a dumb place for mopar to put a strap, and I've been researching if I can move it to inside the engine bay and not on the hood, if that makes sense.
I gotcha. I don't believe mine is connected and I have no issues with the stereo reception and don't have a hood light. I should probably remove it from the block since it looks like it is just wrapped up against the firewall (see 10:14 in the vid).
I wonder, if you are using the correct antifreeze...shouldnt you pour in the MOPAR Antifreeze/Coolant 10 Year/150,000 Mile Formula OAT (Organic Additive Technology) that meets the requirements of FCA Material Standard MS.90032?
Zerex G-05 is Chrysler MS 9769 Approved and Five year / 150,000 mile. You can use the MOPAR stuff if you prefer - your prerogative. From Valvoline site... "ZEREX™ G-05™ is the automaker approved original chemistry used in newer Ford & Daimler Chrysler automotive and diesel engines. Its Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT) chemistry combines the best of conventional and organic acid-based chemistry to provide the ultimate protection against rust and corrosion."
2013 and up should be filled with OAT NOT HOAT!!! Also you used regular water and not distilled water which is wrong also. This video is going to cause damage to people's Jeep's!!!
Thanks for the info. I think you're reaching by stating the video will damage people's Jeep's. People damage people's Jeeps and with any DIY project, I hope they do the research applicable to their Jeep. Never did I mention this applies to all Jeeps. Regarding the HOAT vs OAT, I have added that to the description. Last, I did not completely use ALL tap water and did finish off with distilled water. If you think you have hard water that will damage your engine, then adjust accordingly or take it to a shop (careful they don't secretly use tap water too). In my case, I trust my water enough to not repeat the process over and over again just to get every drop of tap water out.
Also I have a 2014 Jeep. Those new kind of coolant gel up and fuck a bunch of shit up. So first thing I did was drain that red dogshit coolant out and fill it with standard green coolant / antifreeze
Too bad you never showed us the magic flush kit, so we could figure out what was in it, and what you supplied in addition (e.g. the two hoses that suddenly appeared?)
Sorry, I am not sure about the engine layout in that year. I recommend you watch the whole video and then compare hoses. You are mainly looking for the radiator drain valve and the two heater core hoses going through the firewall. Also note the 2013+ Jeeps have different antifreeze requirements.
I would not recommend using air to blow out the system as you may leave air locked into the heater core and difficulties bleeding out the system. In addition, the air will not rinse out surface grime. As mentioned in another reply, you decide whether to continue draining / refilling the radiator with distilled water or rely on the tap water if you trust it. In my case, we have quality tap water and have never had any issues with this method. You can check with your local shops to get their opinion on the water they rely on but caution some will likely say they use distilled / filtered water even though they don't.
The Bleepin Jeep guy does it with air and shows how to in his video he just doing it on a lifted cherokee is the only thing. check it out it's a very good video.
@@symantec1176 I've never seen nor worked at a shop that used filtered or distilled water on radiator changes. I've only ever seen 1 mechanic use distilled water and this was on his own well kept vehicle, all others have used municipal tap water. I suppose as long as its not well water or the water in your area isn't especially hard (mineral rich) municipal water will suffice. Cars are lucky to have an owner that'll do basic preventative maintenance , too many people wait till the car has drivability issues before performing maintenance.
This is a really poor video for what is actually complicated and scary to flush for someone who is not a mechanic. Flushing the radiator, cleaning the coolant container and flushing the heater core is easy. It's simple schematically. Drain the radiator, flush water in, the coolant reservoir disconnect it, dump it and hose the inside out and the heater core flush in on the outlet and out on the inlet into a bucket. Easy. However, the part that is complicated is the engine flush. On my own Jeep I see multiple connections, i can see the thermostat is on the upper radiator outlet hose. I see a lower radiator hose that I don't know what to do with and then bunch of connections on the left side of the engine after or before the heater core for the engine. At this most important part, the video is on crack with speed, shaking like a bad horror B-movie and really really really bad distracting music. Not enough detail of which hoses are what and I have no idea where or what the water pump looks like because it is not pointed out to me. If I knew these things I would not have to watch a video and this is why I'm watching a video...to learn and do it myself. It's a circle with a bunch of connections. I get the concept but I have no idea what is flowing where and what connections are what after watching this.
people this is the way you do a youtube video thanks........great job
If the Jeep keeps blowing cool air on heat, after you've done these steps you have a air lock in the two heater core hoses. Zip tie them together to make them straight and drive it. Then add more antifreeze. This video and this step works for 3.8 and 3.6.
When you say zip tie them together do you simply mean pinch both of the lines? I think I may have to try this, my jk blows cold on the driver side.
@@Spacesprocketz you ever get it figured out? I’m having the exact same issue but the engine won’t get up to temp.
@@kobyreilly3234 try replacing your heater core. ruclips.net/video/_fBSopnYYEU/видео.html is a great and easy step by step video
@@Spacesprocketz try replacing your heater core. ruclips.net/video/_fBSopnYYEU/видео.html is a great and easy step by step video
Remember that the $3-4 flush kit will direct you to splice into the top line. This is reverse flushing, so use the bottom line as indicated. Worked like a charm. I flushed system after this with Preston flush and clean using the bottom line - no difference in doing so.
Thank you for that! I was wondering the same thing and as to why he was splicing into it making it more difficult and time consuming. Appreciate the heads up!
Great video! An easier way to drain the overflow reservoir...
1. Open the Overflow Reservoir cap.
2. Disconnect the overflow hose from the radiator cap.
3. Hook the hose up to a Shop Vac (Wet and Dry Vac) and vacuum all of the coolant out of the bottle.
(I just stuck the overflow hose in the Shop Vac hose and used my hand to seal it while it pulled out the coolant. I've used this same method to reverse drain\flush the heater core with great success.)
Can literally take the whole bottle out and dump it 😂
Not even a bolt holding it in
All of you need to start reading the technical service manuals…for starters flushing the engine does not require cutting anything. You pull the top radiator hose and thermostat, disconnect the bottom radiator hose from the water pump and use a flush gun. You can flush the heater core using the two hoses disconnected from the engine side and, again, not cut anything. The radiator must have vacuum pulled to remove air from the system as well collapsing the upper and lower hoses when refilling. All you diy’ers are causing more problems than you’re fixing. Also, that coolant didn’t look that bad. Alot of coolant is maroon from the factory. My 2018 JK looks exactly like that with 40k miles. I am amazed at how long these things stay on the road given the shade tree mechanics.
Good video, Thanks. The coolant types are confusing anymore. FYI My 2012 Jeep uses HOAT but I think that was the last year. My 2014 Ram uses OAT and your not supposed to mix them so make sure and check your owners manual. I think I'm going to flush both and put Prestone in both which is supposed to be OAT. And remember coolant is toxic and can't be dumped, most larger cities have a Household Hazardous Waste Facility that will take it. Thanks again.
Thanks for doing this. It will provide good guidance for me to do the job.
Thank you for this video! It’s well informed and I used this video to super flush my 2009 Jeep JK. thanks again
Nice to see that your neighbors don't mind you taking up 1/4 of the street when you have all that driveway to use in front of your house lol
Nice video!
09
He wants the jeep to be level and his driveway is sloped.
This video is very well shot - kudos to you sir
Use distilled water. DO NOT USE TAP WATER! REPEAT DO NOT USE TAP WATER!
I’m sorry I couldn’t get passed the nose whistle 😂😂
Tear down the entire front end to get a wrench on that drain valve where you can get enough torque to turn it past 90. I found it easier to just unbolt the radiator remove the hoses and pull the entire radiator out. If you have a Rubicon the sway bar disconnect motor is blocking where you can get your hand in there.
You need more junk bolted to your front end to block that radiator of yours 🤣
The Mopar HOAT coolant has an orange tint to it, but not as strong as Dexcool. Zerex G-05 is gold in color, essentially the same as Ford gold.
Thank you for this vid! I was over heating after I change my heater core and after doing the flush Jeep is running great!
Very helpful and well done. Thanks!
Great video, but why tap water and not fully distilled? Tap water contains contaminates, chemicals and minerals.
My tap water is near the source and have used it in my radiators for 25 years now. If you don't trust your tap water, then don't use it.
How would you flush with distilled water anyway?
Tap water will ruin an engine doesn't make a difference how close to the source you are. At least it's not staying in the radiator only using for a flush but I myself wouldn't use it at all.
You should be blowing the excess tap water out of the system by compressor or mouth. NEVER leave tap water in your coolant system.
Why cut factory hoses?
Kevin, thank you! Really well done!
Excellent video!!.....Just curious.......why did you cut the heater hose rather than disconnect it from the block?
witchesbru67, you can do that if you use an extra hose to connect to the block because you flush both directions. The flush must be inline with the system.
This guy is a G . Thank you .
Great music with video..
Great job..
Since you used the tap water left in the engine after flushing for part of your 50/50 mix, does that put your coolant at risk for premature failure?
mineral particles are now circulating in the system, not good
Thank you for this!
Very well done. Now I can flush my system.
Awesome man!! Thank you!! 🙌🏼🙌🏼🙌🏼
Great video. Like that you did voice over. May I ask how much coolent did you end up using?
Thank you for the comment. I only needed the one gallon container of Zerex G-05. Be sure to use the pure concentrate type and not the Ready to Use type.
10 quarts I believe
I figured for my 16 qt sys (5.7) was two qts of full strenght coolant which gives/makes the solution would be close to half and half. Not counting the over-flow tank and heater core and lines capacity (I figure approx another 3-4 qts half&half). Bottom line, approx 2 1/2 gal of full strenght fluid. Kevin, Thks for Ur patients doing the vid, good points to stay in-mind.
Then after a good day trip, I pull the fluid weight check, colored BBs in the glass dropper thingy, good for a west Tx, N.Mex 20 below.
I really liked this. Thanks for showing the entire process. But, given you have a cold air intake wouldn't it be best to cover the filter so you don't suck in any of that water into the engine?
Just curious, if you turn the heater on fully while flushing the engine will it also flush the heater core? or do you have to flush the heater core separately like in this video? Thanks.
I'd like to know this as well. I was hoping that if you 1. drain old coolant, 2. fill with distilled water 3. turn on engine and heaters 4. drain distilled water, then repeat 2-4 until drained fluid is clear, then it does it all?
I'm still a bit fuzzy in what Kevin did to the heater hose to do his flush. But good question here. Some vehicles had actual mechanical water-flow gates that require actuations to 'open' to allow water to circulate back to/thru the block. I believe I had such heat control on my '77 PU 460cid. Maybe there are readers here that has such aged vehicles that need a flush. Failure prone air-gates have been married to the auto for years and are getting better.
You should try to spray more water onto your hot air intake filter.
why not drain fill run a few times would be better
Very helpful thanks a lot!
@Kevin Abriam , where can buy those adaptors that you had in that blue package for the hose? Thanks
It's the Peak Flush and Fill kit. I got mine at Auto Zone. Likely available at many auto parts stores. There is also a Prestone version exactly the same. Just search PKFOAA on Google.
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I never seen the flush T in use. Only connected, then taken off. I feel like a part was skipped.
Please watch the whole video. The T is added before flushing the heater core to keep the hoses together, then removed during flushing the core. Later, the T is added to flush the engine.
2:15 Which direction do you turn the drain valve, Clockwise or Counter??? *EDIT* 2:54 Counter Clockwise....
Be very very careful in making only approx a 90. Several yrs ago on one of my Rams, at a qick-lube, the monkey was NOT aware the 'open flow' turn was NOT 240 degrees. To replace that sucker came only w/a new radiator. Back then the MFG was not molding the fitting w/a 90 degree swing slot. Now, today, I do not think that valve is replacable on/to the rad while on the vehicle.
Were you running the engine when you flushed the radiator out with tap water?
great video.... so much detail... thank ou
How much coolant does it take
Great video, but is there any other way to flush the heater core without cutting the heater core hose. Because now when you splice in a connector of some sort to repair the hose hose you just cut, there is the possibility of it leaking. I'm just spit ballin' here but I highly doubt my local chain mechanic is cutting people heater core hoses.
Service centers, such as at your local dealer, use coolant flushing machines that range from $2k to $4k. You can search "Coolant Flush Machine" here to find some video examples. My understanding is they connect to the upper radiator hose and start by flushing the radiator while the engine is on. Once the thermostat opens, the machine can then flush the remaining coolant system.
BTW, you are correct that using the included adapter can introduce a leak down the road and have seen it before. When that happens I change the adapter to an appropriate inner diameter hose extension adapter. It is not difficult to swap between the 2 port extension and back to the 3 port flush adapter when time for another flush.
You can isolate the heater core by unplugging both lines and running water through the hoses. You could also buy an extra tube and splice the T connector to original hose, spare hose to water pump when flushing the pump.
Do you have to cut your heater hoses? I would rather not.
Its much easier to unhook them from the engine end than to cut them. I couldn't even watch after you cut the hoses.
How do you know this system gets past the closed thermostat. I don't see everything in the block getting flushed out.
This a great time to remove the stat, clean the corrosion that is eating it away, and check if the stat should be R&R, In many cases the supporting hose and thermostat hold-down piece should be replaced too.
My question is not related to flushing. I work at autozone. We sell cold air intake build kits for kN. Did u actually notice any benefit worth the expense. I know they are costly. Did u install it yourself?
Prior to re-gearing, we only noticed a little difference. The 35's still caused the Jeep to drive like a slug. It did help a bit at full throttle going up hill and sounds awesome. The biggest difference was re-gearing so you should probably start there first.
@@symantec1176 I was just hoping for gas mi. Improvement. My tires are only 32" no lift.
@@conniebennett6646 I have a total of 3 K&N cold air intakes across three vehicles. I find that you either get slight performance increases or gas mileage increases, depending on how you drive. For me, either I have a lead foot or am pulling (trailering) more weight. If you drive without requiring that extra performance increase (i.e. daily light driving), you'll get 1-2 MPG increase. Don't expect a great deal but based on today's gas costs, likely still worth it in the long term.
Don’t feel bad, my jeep TJ original water pump only lasted 52,000 miles. Put another Mopar OEM water pump in and just changed it this weekend at 98,000 miles. Smh.
That is soooo common w'Mopar water & PS pumps, pressing the pulley makes one to see red fast.
Are the hoses set up the same on a 2015 jk? Different motor. Planning on flushing this weekend but its my first time doing this. I feel confident after watching this video, but want to make sure hose setup is the same. Also, if you re fill with 50/50 after flushing system with water, will I not have my 5050 mix in the end? What will I most likely end up with?
Also, how many bottles of fluid is required to re fil after a flush? (Of pure coolant)
Thanks!
I can't speak for the 2015 but there should always be an input and output to the heater core. Should not matter which as I have never come across any flow controls within the core. Not sure if the hoses are located on the same side but you should find them close to each other going from the engine bay, through the firewall, to the cabin. I do not use 50/50. I flush the system which leaves some water in the system. I poor full concentrate into the radiator. I then top off the radiator with water which is about the same amount as the full concentrate. I then check the boil point with the meter after that. You should be close and can adjust accordingly in the overflow tank. Yes, after flushing you can use 50/50, but it'll take you two large containers, and maybe a little more concentrate as I said there is some water in the system from the flush.
Did you notice any performance change with the k&n air filter?
Very little. Mainly gave it a more throaty sound. We finally re-geared to 4.88 and huge difference. Still breaking in but will be interesting if the K&N shows a noticeable difference once we can really press on the gas.
Is there a way you could do this without disconnecting the hoses and just open the radiator drain valve and feed the hose into the overflow tank, start it and let the water pump do the work? Wouldn't this eventually flush the system clean including the water pump, heater core and engine water passages? Asking because I want to do this on a 220k km JK which needs a new radiator. On another note this is the first major repair item I've had with this car. Well out of warranty now and want to DYI.
or DIY even
@@andrewhood9246, The problem with not flushing on the other end of the engine is the thermostat and water pump may not allow the water to flow, especially through the heater core.
Good job
Ok jeep guys i screwed up, only because I'm a new jeep owner.. i have a 2012 jeep wrangler sport.. i started to loose heat couple weeks ago. so i watched a few RUclips videos how to flush the heater coil. i flushed it fine and got heat back.. after that i checked the antifreeze seeing it was low.. i added some to the radiator. the jeep started to over heat going pass half to the next mark.. it has never gotten into the red.. so i changed the thermostat, and the coolant sensor on the motor.. ok still over heating.. come to find out i had used the OAT coolant.. when it should be the HOAT coolant.. my question is when i go to flush the motor and radiator and put the HOAT back in do you guys think it will stop the over heating issues or did i just screw up my whole damn motor..
an ugly chemical reaction may have gooed up the radiator. There is some online info about this. Bad chemistry.
I always disconnect bottom return house because sometimes stuff is to big to pass thru radiator petcock.
how has your 3.8 been? Im looking for a JK leaning toward the 3.6 but i've heard hit and miss things about the 3.8
No problems with our 3.8 except for the EGR sensor going bad at about 80k. Easy fix and now at around 100k. I do like the extra power in the 3.6 though.
@@symantec1176 Where is this EGR sensor? Did you consider replacing the entire EGR valve (between the firewall and the rear of the 3.8L engine)?
@@dano0726 The EGR sensor is part of the EGR valve. Yes, I replaced the whole unit which is between the firewall and rear passenger side of 3.6 engine. 3.8 should be the same. Easy for me as I have the aftermarket fenders and can easily remove the fender liner. Then it's a matter of turning the wheel fully to the left and blindly getting a 1/4" deep socket back there. The wire harness is a bit of a pain but the two bolts holding the valve isn't bad.
3.8 way quieter than 3.6. The fan on the 3.6 is very noisy
RUN AWAY from the 3.6 Plastic Penstar
Does this effectively clean out the casting sand that is causing so many issues? I've replaced my heater core and radiator already on my 2009 and need to do something as it is already starting to blow hot only on one side. I'm afraid I am heading to another leaking heater core due to a severe clog.
Did you ever get an answer?
@@JWard2 I’ve limped through winter and the heater sucks. I still need to do something
@@db09jku o bummer
I’m currently dealing with the casting sand issue. Will be doing a flush this weekend
At the end, when you used the gauge to check the density, how do you know which to add; water or antifreeze ?
More antifreeze you add, the more the needle will move up.
On average I've seen, the full strength coolant needed to be bumped up in the over-flow tank, it'll circulate in a day or two.
Hey Kev, Great video. I only did the first part of this on my 2010 at 70K. I flushed the radiator and engine(?) and refilled with the same fluid. I didnt do the heater core at the time. Im having problems with my jeep overheating to about 3/4 when im idling. Any ideas? Should I replace the thermostat?
I'd start there. You can pull the thermostat and test it in boiling water to see what temperature it opens, if at all. The temp should be stamped on the thermostat, otherwise see the temp specifications on a new OEM replacement. If the thermo is opening correctly, you could have some blockage slowing the flow of fluid through the system (i.e. heater core). If this was the case, you might see the Jeep cool down while revving higher but while still parked. This should cause the water pump to push the fluid harder. Keep in mind your fan too. The fan should kick on to help cool the fluid in the radiator, thus cool the engine, especially while stopped and idling.
@@symantec1176 The Fan is SUPER LOUD on idle. Like its a jet engine, so i'm assuming the fan is working? I'm going to replace the thermostat all together instead of troubleshooting it. It wont hurt to do that anyways. I've also replaced the water pump within the last year when I did the flush, so i can rule that out. I will try the rev on idle and see if my temp drops at all. I appreciate the quick response. My last question would be, when I remove the thermostat I will lose some fluid.... Should I just top off the reservoir after the installation with 50/50 fluid and water or what would be the proper procedure here?
Sounds like the fan is working. Good chance your thermostat is sticking a bit and opening at a higher temp than it should be. Good place to start. You shouldn't lose much fluid. Just make sure you're maxed on your overflow reservoir (50/50) and it'll balance out after awhile. Just keep an eye on it after a day or two of driving.
If I recall, you can squeeze the upper radiator hose (use rag as can get hot) and if it is easily squeezed, the thermostat is closed. Once the thermostat reaches temp, you'll feel the rush of fluid and hose expansion due to water pressure. Another useful tip is a code reader in live view. You can monitor the engine temp and watch it rise and then cool once the thermo opens. Then drops and see it close, and repeat. Gives you a good baseline (min / max) as to what is going on.
@@symantec1176 This is all super useful and I appreciate you taking the time on this. When I have the chance to get to this, I will report back with what I did and my results, just in case someone like me in the future needs the info. Enjoy your weekend!
Kevin Abriam so here's an update and probably the first thing that should be checked. My reservoir is stained so I thought I had fluid in it (I didn't). Opened up the radiator cap (cold of course) and started the jeep, very low. Filled it to the neck, let it run filled it to the neck until it equalized. Let it run then filled the reservoir to min. Thermostat did its job. I will keep this information in my pocket for the future. Thanks again. (I know, I should've actually checked the fluid first).
Great video! What fenders are those? Look awesome
Thanks. They are Bushwacker Flat Style Fender Set.
Is it 3/8" hose, is that inner diamter? or outer diamter? Im assuming that's inner diameter.
mike MacKinnon, your assumption is correct. I just measured to be sure and is 3/8" inner diameter.
Nice video, Subscribed too
How many litres of coolant and distilled water (combined) did the entire engine and radiator require?
Arron, Ck the owner's manual for your system's coolant's capacity and on average most systems are serviced toward the mark, half&half. Now, I use distilled right out of the gate, w/clean water pressure pump, pushing distilled (pressurized at input) thur the block and heater core, using approx 3-4 gallon for the flush till clear running, then on , don't concern yourself, keeping in mind half&half, using approximations, pour the full strength coolant in, cap it, keep checking a day or two after a bit running, circulation, review the coolant weight till you get the colored BBs at your needed mark on the weight scale. I believe the radiatorr capacity is figured in w/the number the owners' manual gives for sys capacity.
No offense but being as water transfers the heat and coolant barely does shouldn’t you have added water at the end?
ummm this is not correct. "Coolant" actually conducts/transfers heat just as well as H2O (water). Your adding water to reduce the specific gravity of the coolant mixture.
unrelated, but did you relocate the ground that was connected to the hood?
The hood is not stock which is why it is not likely in the same spot. The hood is a Smittybilt SRC Stingray.
so technically, it is relocated? I'm just wondering because it was a dumb place for mopar to put a strap, and I've been researching if I can move it to inside the engine bay and not on the hood, if that makes sense.
I gotcha. I don't believe mine is connected and I have no issues with the stereo reception and don't have a hood light. I should probably remove it from the block since it looks like it is just wrapped up against the firewall (see 10:14 in the vid).
I wonder, if you are using the correct antifreeze...shouldnt you pour in the MOPAR Antifreeze/Coolant 10
Year/150,000 Mile Formula OAT (Organic Additive Technology) that meets the requirements of FCA Material
Standard MS.90032?
Zerex G-05 is Chrysler MS 9769 Approved and Five year / 150,000 mile. You can use the MOPAR stuff if you prefer - your prerogative.
From Valvoline site... "ZEREX™ G-05™ is the automaker approved original chemistry used in newer Ford & Daimler Chrysler automotive and diesel engines. Its Hybrid Organic Acid Technology (HOAT) chemistry combines the best of conventional and organic acid-based chemistry to provide the ultimate protection against rust and corrosion."
2013 and up should be filled with OAT NOT HOAT!!! Also you used regular water and not distilled water which is wrong also. This video is going to cause damage to people's Jeep's!!!
Thanks for the info. I think you're reaching by stating the video will damage people's Jeep's. People damage people's Jeeps and with any DIY project, I hope they do the research applicable to their Jeep. Never did I mention this applies to all Jeeps. Regarding the HOAT vs OAT, I have added that to the description. Last, I did not completely use ALL tap water and did finish off with distilled water. If you think you have hard water that will damage your engine, then adjust accordingly or take it to a shop (careful they don't secretly use tap water too). In my case, I trust my water enough to not repeat the process over and over again just to get every drop of tap water out.
Chris Thompson you're smoking crack dude you don't have to use distilled water. It's a fucking car
Also I have a 2014 Jeep. Those new kind of coolant gel up and fuck a bunch of shit up. So first thing I did was drain that red dogshit coolant out and fill it with standard green coolant / antifreeze
This never flushed the water out of the heater core and engine block. Only the radiator.
2019 jeep wrangler jl sport 3.6 does not have radiator or drain plug, so for this how do you flush and refill coolant on this jeep?
Be more specific in your RUclips search 😂
Is it ok to use zerex 50/50 premix?
Yes, long as compliant with Chrysler HOAT or OAT, depending on your Jeep JK year. JL could have different requirement.
Too bad you never showed us the magic flush kit, so we could figure out what was in it, and what you supplied in addition (e.g. the two hoses that suddenly appeared?)
Water hoses?
Can this be done on a 2014 Jeep Wrangler
Sorry, I am not sure about the engine layout in that year. I recommend you watch the whole video and then compare hoses. You are mainly looking for the radiator drain valve and the two heater core hoses going through the firewall. Also note the 2013+ Jeeps have different antifreeze requirements.
Grazie
Why not just blow air in the system to flush it out as it is you leave tap water in everything with this method?
I would not recommend using air to blow out the system as you may leave air locked into the heater core and difficulties bleeding out the system. In addition, the air will not rinse out surface grime. As mentioned in another reply, you decide whether to continue draining / refilling the radiator with distilled water or rely on the tap water if you trust it. In my case, we have quality tap water and have never had any issues with this method. You can check with your local shops to get their opinion on the water they rely on but caution some will likely say they use distilled / filtered water even though they don't.
The Bleepin Jeep guy does it with air and shows how to in his video he just doing it on a lifted cherokee is the only thing. check it out it's a very good video.
@@symantec1176 I've never seen nor worked at a shop that used filtered or distilled water on radiator changes. I've only ever seen 1 mechanic use distilled water and this was on his own well kept vehicle, all others have used municipal tap water. I suppose as long as its not well water or the water in your area isn't especially hard (mineral rich) municipal water will suffice. Cars are lucky to have an owner that'll do basic preventative maintenance , too many people wait till the car has drivability issues before performing maintenance.
need to use distilled water flushing and or adding , to many minerals in tap water.
NEVER put tap water to anyone that is watching this. ONLY use distilled water! Tap water will leave minerals in the system.
It's fine for the flush. You're not leaving the tap water in the radiator.
Not true there is hardly anything and the antifreeze has inhibitors. Tap it up.
Better safe than sorry
How do you pressurize the distilled water?
As if the minute minerals in tap water are worse then the casting sand that been in there for how long now ? 😂
what hood is that? its sharp
Smitybilt SRC Stingray. Thanks!
what year is your jeep?
also how many miles on it?
Scott Dilley ... 2010 with about 70,000 miles
You used tap water to flush it not a good idea
I feel as if I am watching a movie.
All that work might aswell remove the hood
This is a really poor video for what is actually complicated and scary to flush for someone who is not a mechanic. Flushing the radiator, cleaning the coolant container and flushing the heater core is easy. It's simple schematically. Drain the radiator, flush water in, the coolant reservoir disconnect it, dump it and hose the inside out and the heater core flush in on the outlet and out on the inlet into a bucket. Easy. However, the part that is complicated is the engine flush. On my own Jeep I see multiple connections, i can see the thermostat is on the upper radiator outlet hose. I see a lower radiator hose that I don't know what to do with and then bunch of connections on the left side of the engine after or before the heater core for the engine. At this most important part, the video is on crack with speed, shaking like a bad horror B-movie and really really really bad distracting music. Not enough detail of which hoses are what and I have no idea where or what the water pump looks like because it is not pointed out to me. If I knew these things I would not have to watch a video and this is why I'm watching a video...to learn and do it myself. It's a circle with a bunch of connections. I get the concept but I have no idea what is flowing where and what connections are what after watching this.
Buy a Haynes manual and figure it out…
I got sea sick
Coolant should be cool 😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣 another RUclips expert
BAD VIDEO! You move cam way too fast at critical junctures and don't zoom in when needed.
Video unwatchable due to a nose whistle, so annoying
Don’t care about what you think and don’t care what the wind is doing and I don’t care about your preamble I wish you tubers would stop wasting time
dennis craig say what? Not sure what your comment means?
dennis craig you sir are a douche bag, this man took time out of his life to help others and stupid comments like yours aren't necessary
Then GTF off youtube.