Hey, can someone confirm which one is the case drain line on this ex? first i thought it's the middle one, because it was leaking nonstop, but logic dictates that case drain line should be connected to the uppermost port on a final drive. Would be cool if someone shed some light on this topic, putting a new drive together on the machine, but can't decide which one is the drain line and which is 2nd speed line.
The port between the main pressure ports (two large one's) should be the 2-speed port and the case drain is on the side (so the one on top, when your drive is installed). Nice Video btw. :)
I am a 45 yo single Mom of a 16 yo daughter, and I have nothing to do with building, or equipment, or land/cabin restoration, or reforesting, or Soviet machine maintenance. BUT, I love your channel and videos and I think you are so next level AMAZING! I love your humor! Thank you!
Hi Ants! The Lines arent even 1 meter long and end in the middle under the excavator under the cover there at the rotary feedthroug (i dont know if the english word for that is correct, in german it would be Drehdurchführung)! So no disassambly from above, you work there only from the under side. Your final drive doesnt look that bad, i have put together worse. For a repair, you would need the two shafts with the worn splines, maybe ask at a yanmar dealership. You also need to replace the floating seals, this is the big metalring and the big o ring. for these o rings you usualy get rubberstring by the meter, cut it and glue it together with superglue (no joke, this is how its done). But on the opposite side of this metalring there is another one! you disassamle it by blowing out this very small balls, because these hold the ring in! When you look at it, it makes sense! these 2 metalrings are the seal, they are pressed together by the big o rings, rub on each other and hold the transmissionfluid in that way. the rings may not have to be replaced if they were not leaking. For the big bearings, i cant say if they have to be replaced from looking at a video. The 2 needles, i dont know maybe from somewere else? The other worn stuff dosnt look that bad, i would leave it in. Greetings Rudi
and the 3 nidle bearings isfrom the hyd-motor they are 3 push pins(not bearings)i think they puts the preload on from the rotating part of the pump to the bras plate. there is 3 slots inside the revolver housing for them.
I could be wrong, but those "needle bearings" might actually dowel pins that keep something from rotating. I could see part 21 listed as "pins" but couldn't find 21 on the diagram. They may be listed on another page you didn't show. I would also look at the castings for little holes they fit into. It might lead you to where they go if they are dowel pins and not needle bearings. Good luck, G.
Those pins reminded me of the pins in my tractors hydrostatic trans. They are extremely important for changing the fluid flow for forward and reverse in my tractor. These ones here have to be part of that hydraulic pump and either fell out before disassembly (which explains the lack of motion) or they dropped out when the pump was lifted.
Classic quote from this video at 1:23:35 haha. “I hate when I don’t know crap about stuff” - Ants Pants I grew up on a cattle farm and messed with a lot of stuff growing up. Your videos are nostalgic for me. I love em all thanks so much man!
Hi Ants pants firstly I just wanted to say I’m a big fan of your Chanel keep up the good work bro. The lever sticking out of the panel located behind your feet when your sitting on the machine is most likely a “slew lock” lever which essentially drops a pin from the rotating house (what you sit on that spins) and the track frame locking the two together for transport purposes. Also the two “needle bearings” are likely dowels which hold the port plate (that round brass piece) in a fixed position with the hydraulic motor housing so it doesn’t spin with the piston housing as it’s not suppose to. The splines that have worn out in your final drive are on a part called the sun gear shaft. That shaft is made from a softer metal and is designed to be worn out and replaceable over time saving the rest of the final drive from damage. Also the springs have likely come from behind the two plungers that press on the swash plate to help it return to a neutral position. I hope this helps 👍🏻
I fell asleep somewhere on "removing plate", 7 hours later I was woken up by the sounds of the angle grinder from another Ants video. this is so relaxing ahhaha
Extracting rusted / siezed bolts and components can be made so much easier by applying some heat and then spray on a mixture of atf (2/3) and acetone (1/3). The heat will suck the fluid into the joint or threads and make removal so smooth and simple. It has rarely ever failed me.
Hi Andris. I have recently found your channel, immediately subscribed and now i cant get enough of it. :) WHAT THE CRAP, man? :) You are SO entertaining. The humour, the cuts, the way you talk and present things...everything is top notch. You are very likeable person and also somewhat relatable. I feel like you are some old weird friend of mine somewhat haha. Also - this it the only channel on RUclips that can get my attention for 1+ hour straight. Like, seriously. Now i anticipatе every video. 1 hour, 2 hours...doesnt matter. The more the better. I am here for the long run, dude:) Thank you so much for you, being you. Now excuse me. I have to go all over your videos and give them a thumbs up. Just for the sport. MAYBE. Best wishes. George Sofia, BG
That there Harry Houdini was a master at getting out of tight situations ,You Andris are a master of finding a method of getting into them That jig set up on the bench was a work of art and very practical ,as you have realised by now i'm not into all the technical details of the jobs you do, I just enjoy how you do them ,You have a way of doing things that very few would even think of,,That's very special indeed ,keep entertaining like this please ,,Pamela ,,🐰💐💐🛒
Another great video to view Andris but certainly outside of my pay grade regarding any input to help you better understand the failure point(s), replacement needs, or reassembly.
HI Ants, the three needles you found keep the pressure on your rotary block and are located on three equally divided positions on the circumference of the splined shaft. They push against the spheric cup that retracts your pistons. The pistons follow the cam plate. In the centre of the rotary block there is a spring located to maintain the pressure. Hope I could help you a bid. I repaired a lot of those final drives and its a common problem after a certain amount of hours. This one doesn't look too bad, I've seen much worse. I would like to help you with this, but there is a big distance between you and my place unfortunately, but I wish you good luck. One tip, make sure everything is 200% clean during reassembly.
I follow diesel creek,letsdig 18,dirt perfect,andrew camarata,c&c equipment and a few more on you tube with great pleasure but I have to say that Ant P.is the favourite.I've said it before his humour,determination and lovely self criticism is totally unbeatable. I hope you get a million subscribers soon. Thank you!
Yeah, let’s dig just buys newish Volvo’s - time is money for an operation like his. I don’t think he has half the skills of Ants but that’s ok, he is good at what he does.
Andris, those 2 metal rings with rubber ring behind them are floating seals. If u decide to fix this final drive u can bring those seals to machine shop to refinish surfaces(if u want to cheap out). Also grove where rubber ring sits must be rust free otherwise it will leak again.
Another great video , as usual !! Your determination , perserverance , humour and inquiring mind is amazing ( you are a lot smarter than you make out , Ants ) . Not only are your videos great , but very entertaining , one of the best on RUclips , as the comments will back me up , with the diversity of your avid audience !!!!! And you dont have to thank us for watching , we should be thanking you for posting !!!!!!
Hey Andris, I admire your persistence in the face of the hydraulic mafia, it was very satisfying when you completely broke down the final drive. Also, it's very satisfying when you bring out the Nut Buster, which I admit, you use very judiciously :)
Yesterday mid video I thought about how crazy it is that I was watching a two hour long video about the maintenance on an excavator. A piece of machinery I’ll never own or even use. I watched it getting repainted and the lights installed. I watched it do work around the house.. I know about a lot the other machines around your house and how to do maintenance on them. I followed the renovation of the cabins, the zip line, the bridge over the water, the slide for the kids,.. It’s all such fun to follow. I look forward to your videos each week and I’m impressed how you get all that work done and edit it. Don’t burn yourself out, be safe and thanks for the great content! Wish you a lot of success so you can buy more stuff for crazy projects 😂!
Your work on this assembly in the conditions you are in was beautifully done. The ring removal tool was brilliant. I believe the hydraulic motor was a swash type piston drive that converts the vertical movement of the pistons to rotary motion on the plate. Your diagnosis seems well thought out. Figuring out how to get that wire out was amazing. It looks as if all it needs is 2 bearings, the 2 splined parts and a seal. Great video as well. Thank you.
I got excited when you said a word of your sponsor; Excited because I think you deserve a sponsor and your content is chill af. I know there are people that get salty about content creators "selling out" but if it helps you, it helps me...
Those "needles" you found... if they are from a bearing the bearing was clearly bad and the needles will be well out of round.... If they are round and undamaged then I would say they are locator pins of some kind. Alas look for a little hole they will fit in... probably two of them? And note in your own video exactly when you found them. As it looks like they were loose they must be from "above" where you found them. great work.
3 needles are probably from the motor, where the pistons goes. They are sort of a spacer. The piston housing may have 3 little holes near the center shaft
Yes yes yes brilliant an uploaded video from my favourite RUclipsr cant wait too watch this and a long one fantastic love love these long videos ants best thing to put on tv keep um coming pal
Again a video where you tear into something I can barely comprehend, and do so with gusto. Every project, every job is interesting and well thought through. Every video I learn something and i am grateful I discovered your channel. It has become my favorite.
Andris: your videos are like a man on Mars trying to make re-entry with earth against all odds, using your wits and tools at your disposal. Love the stuff you produce. The giant Soviet tractor is next for sure!!
Hey buddy, the sketch level was high at first, but you made it into the shop. 👍 You went deeper than I probably would have. Now youtube has a video of the disassemblely on a Yanmar drive unit. Awesome👍👍
Great video, Andris. Persistence paid off with the disassembly process, especially building the nut release tool. It's really enjoyable to watch to problem solve. Have a great weekend, mate
You know why the last one bolt is ALWAYS so stuck? Because beside that it's rusted it holds ALL the tension of the part, so to make your life easier, reinstall two bolts on either side of the last one, remove it and then remove those two bolts...
Ants you have out done yourself on this one! Man, you find the most ingenious ways to solve a problem and fitting and welding that part, Man!! hats off to your efforts. I agree you learn with trial and error. I was hoping you would been able to fix it instead of spending that much money but sometimes you have to do what you have to in order to get things up and running! I knew you would have hobbled that YANMAR in there...LMAO! I have no idea about these parts but the video was a good one, learning a lot!! Maybe Santa Clauz will show up with a present!!!
I go after rusty bolts like that with my needle scaler. It’ll pound the rust out of every nook and cranny and actually loosen bolts up. Great for getting the dirt and mud out like he had around those hoses too.
'Preparing a sarcophagus' sun=ms it up Andris. Yep, if you can source parts, good and well as it will help for when you do the other side. But, I can't help feel that a new drive and then cannibalising the parts from Side 1 for Side 2 when you need to do it is still a cost-saving plan. Thanks again for putting up something I will NEVER have to undertake for myself. I'm just off to sand a threshold plat in the house that has swollen because of moisture and then swap a set of door handles. That's the extent of my DIY for the next wee while - until gardening weather resumes!
Maybe the "needles" are locating pins/dowels for something in the hydraulic motor? Maybe between the halves? Many hydraulic components have locating pins for precision. The floating seal has two metal rings,one in each rotating part. The orings just press them together. Remember they need to be put in with the orings absolutely dry and clean! No oil! Greetings from sweden 🎉
loved this one, thanks for posting. As for the hydraulic lines, Id be tempted to wait until one busted and then replace them all. You may have upgraded before any actually fail and you can always warn any future new owner of this concern. Those gears certainly look pretty and if they're totally unusable, would make into some nice artwork :)
I finally had time to watch this. I wasn't disappointed. I really enjoy these teardowns. It's so interesting how they can make all these different parts. Then make it work all together as one. Your take on how to disassemble all this was excellent. You're pretty darn crafty. Let's hope you're successful finding parts. Because putting it back together is when things really get interesting. Also what a great video it will be. Last thing. I think those roller bearings might of come from somewhere else in the machine. Take care from Canada eh!
One thing i would do is paint used motor oil all over these hidden motors and lines , each time i have the covers off for inspection . Grease is alot easier to deal with then rust. Kinda like with old guys with there cars. Dump used motor oil down car doors on inside to keep salt from rusting out doors. Great video. As always ❤
1:45:31 no there is a pannel on the bottom center from there you replaced the lines. They are connected to your hydraulic swivel joint. Whic has total of 8 lines for motor (4 each) and 2 for dozer blade. That is in lower part, also the same in the upper but you dont need that yet.😂
Never tire of watching your stuff, Andris...definitely one of the best channels out there...👍 Must admit, did have to chuckle at the 'A word from our sponsors ' moment...you seem to be doing quite well without them, and definitely don't need that 'BS'... Keep up the great work, buddy...already looking forward to your next video...👍😊
Morning Ants, I went through and rebuilt the final drive on my New Holland LT185 super boom skid steer. I didn’t touch the motor side, but I found a rebuild shop that walked me through it and supplied the parts and it only cost around one fourth the cost. If you can get one for $1,600 get it. I had that much in parts. A rebuilt final drive no pump was $5,500 here in theUS. Thanks for the video.
Nice work mate. I did order the 2 shafts and a bearing for rebuild, havent got around it yet though, not worth it though the 2 shafts alone was 500 eur while the entire new drive was 1200 lol
For removing the bearing raceways, weld a metal disc in the middle of them, when the weld cools and contracts, it will pull the raceway tight/smaller in diameter, and ideally it will 'fall out'
I just bought a B27 with a bad right travel motor. This is an extremely helpful video or at least it will be if I ever get around to fixing it lol. Thanks.
Hi Andris, I hope you are having a good weekend. I enjoyed your video, I don’t know how you do that complicated work, you are amazing. You’re always fun to watch and you work so hard I hope you get everything you want in life, you deserve it! Get some rest and take care
Sure was an awful nice video. I was rooting for you every bolt. Loved seeing what was inside there. Maybe a new machine and service manual you could have some success putting back together. Thanks again for all the hard work you put into making these videos. One of my favorite channels. Look forward to Friday's
Hi, I've got a similar drive in a kubota, I had the face seal leak, the floating seal is the two metal rings and two "o" rings (toroid). I replaced the face seal, parts came from Latvia £80 (kubota price £450). The drive shaft that failed in your drive is very worn in mine, similar shafts are available from Latvia for £100, unfortunately not available for mine Kubota want £900+vat. Mine is now running, not leaking but at some time in the future the drive shaft will fail and like yours, the way forwards is a whole new drive for around £2,000. For anyone wondering the face seal is literally metal to metal with the rubber rings applying slight pressure, the metal rings "float" on the rubber, the face is precisely ground at a slight angle, dirt can't get into the gap and oil can't get out. Compacted mud, wear and tear, eventually wins and starts a leak, the oil and grit mix and destroy the face. Mine lasted 26 years then probably leaked out the small amount of oil, over a few hours of use. You only get a small window of opportunity to save the drive!
Good comment this. The maffia dude offered me spare parts for rebuild 2 main bearings, floating seal, face seal, 2 shafts for 1.1k, at the same time a replacement aftermarket drive for 1.2k, it's obvious what i chose 😂
Until I found you, I never heard of Estonia. I took one of those DNA tests and found out in my ancestory that I have a person or more in my linage of Estonian blood. So at seventy four now, a former mechanic, I too beat on this "CRAP" and found myself wanting C4 to open up parts and pieces or blow it to pieces. I would find another excavator of same type of drive system for parts as yours might become the parts for another machine or be fixed by another one. I can't say if the hours on a machine kills them or just the kind of work they did to wear one out. I know now that rebuilding one takes more patience than what I possess... You are a entertainment center and this video shows damn good metal in you
Hi Andris, love watching your mechanical escapades and comments! ;-) I had a thought on your heater.........why don't you let the exhaust gases run through an old radiator first? By doing that you would preserve some extra heat inside before blowing it out unused? A so called sand battery would do the trick as well.........had the additional advantage of warming up parts or lunch ;-)
MM77 Approved 👍🏻👍🏻………………………………….Always entertaining and 90% of the time I learn something……………most of the time, I learn something from you struggling. I will use a jack to bust a nut loose when I can’t get a cheater bar on a wrench. I’ve never thought of that!!
Hope this will help next time you need some tapered wooden pegs any time you do hydroponics nice slow taper one size fits mostly all just shove them in the pipe or fittings leak stops and dirt can’t get in cheers
Yo dude me and my adult daughter we love watching your videos they are so funny and interesting we live in the UK but we also have a old log cabin like yours but in Poland which we are currently fixing up and hopfully living in the next year once complete I would love to take a drive to meet you some time in the future iv met another youtuber in our village in poland which also make videos on log cabin restorations
Hyvä.korjaus tuo aina taitoja joista ei itse tiedä omaavansa niin sinnikyys palkitaan kärsivällisyydellä sitä sinulla on.kiitos hienosta videosta tätä lisää.vaikka sähköt reistaa ole lujana kyllä käsivoiminkin työsi näyttää sujuvan
I replaced a yammer B27 drive, have a video on my channel as well. Kudos to you for digging deeper! I ended up ordering a drive from Alibaba and replacing it whole. The face seal failed and allowed water and dirt into the planetary gears and the faceplate covering them was seized. I couldn't extract the wire and just left it alone. Seems to be a common failure point across many kinds of final drives. The seal goes, allows grit and water inside, then chews up the bearings until something binds up and breaks. In the US it is considered a grey market import machine so yammer USA does not provide parts support. Makes it difficult to get parts. I did however find the service manual for the machine if you ever need pictures of it. Cheers from Ohio, USA
Cool man i will check out your video. I ordered a manual from the states, cost about 200 eur lol with 3 months of shipping time... I got price offers for new bearings, seal, 2x shafts total 1000 eur. I ordered a replacement drive for 1200 eur
Until an actual video on how to disassemble the final drive get posted, Ants Pants video is the only go-to video on how to disassemble the inner workings 😂😂😂😂😂
PTO = Power Take-Off... That is the auxiliary function. Handle should activate/deactivate and pedal for strength/speed and maybe also forward/backward (looked like it was a left/right rocker) if not, handle might do direction changes besides on/off.
Hey, can someone confirm which one is the case drain line on this ex? first i thought it's the middle one, because it was leaking nonstop, but logic dictates that case drain line should be connected to the uppermost port on a final drive. Would be cool if someone shed some light on this topic, putting a new drive together on the machine, but can't decide which one is the drain line and which is 2nd speed line.
Normally on final drives the drain is the bigger of the 2 small hoses, and the smaller one is for changing speed.
Foam squishy earplugs for irregular sized holes to plug! And make 'cones' from silicon tubes you will not finish completely.
Should look up Andrew Camarata pretty sure he did a video on this … he has the exact same model as you
The port between the main pressure ports (two large one's) should be the 2-speed port and the case drain is on the side (so the one on top, when your drive is installed).
Nice Video btw. :)
The top line is always the case drain
I am a 45 yo single Mom of a 16 yo daughter, and I have nothing to do with building, or equipment, or land/cabin restoration, or reforesting, or Soviet machine maintenance. BUT, I love your channel and videos and I think you are so next level AMAZING! I love your humor! Thank you!
Start posting as well as consuming. What do you have to lose? Just do it! G.
His humor attracts all walks of life 😂
Thanks ma' m
@@Ants_Pants Check out Farmcraft 101 He did a final drive and hoses too
❤
someone sponsor this man so he can have some heat, and send him some final drive stuff....loved the whole vid
Vevor sponsored him with that heater i believe.
I think he would rather more tools. Can never have enough tools, especially when he pushes em past their limits
Time for two more heaters or a wood stove which I'm surprised you don't have one in there already unless you're in the works of a bigger shop
Thanks dude
Hi Ants!
The Lines arent even 1 meter long and end in the middle under the excavator under the cover there at the rotary feedthroug (i dont know if the english word for that is correct, in german it would be Drehdurchführung)! So no disassambly from above, you work there only from the under side.
Your final drive doesnt look that bad, i have put together worse.
For a repair, you would need the two shafts with the worn splines, maybe ask at a yanmar dealership.
You also need to replace the floating seals, this is the big metalring and the big o ring. for these o rings you usualy get rubberstring by the meter, cut it and glue it together with superglue (no joke, this is how its done).
But on the opposite side of this metalring there is another one! you disassamle it by blowing out this very small balls, because these hold the ring in! When you look at it, it makes sense!
these 2 metalrings are the seal, they are pressed together by the big o rings, rub on each other and hold the transmissionfluid in that way. the rings may not have to be replaced if they were not leaking.
For the big bearings, i cant say if they have to be replaced from looking at a video. The 2 needles, i dont know maybe from somewere else?
The other worn stuff dosnt look that bad, i would leave it in.
Greetings Rudi
Another awesome “day in the life” of a man in Estonia 🇪🇪
I think this is just a modern day last man on earth art project. Love this channel.
Hehe
and the 3 nidle bearings isfrom the hyd-motor they are 3 push pins(not bearings)i think they puts the preload on from the rotating part of the pump to the bras plate. there is 3 slots inside the revolver housing for them.
Thanks for confirming this
I could be wrong, but those "needle bearings" might actually dowel pins that keep something from rotating. I could see part 21 listed as "pins" but couldn't find 21 on the diagram. They may be listed on another page you didn't show. I would also look at the castings for little holes they fit into. It might lead you to where they go if they are dowel pins and not needle bearings. Good luck, G.
This was my thought exaclty... Think of the symptoms, it's rotating freely when it shouldn't, and there are 2 random pins floating around.
My thoughts also they could be dowel pins.
Those pins reminded me of the pins in my tractors hydrostatic trans. They are extremely important for changing the fluid flow for forward and reverse in my tractor. These ones here have to be part of that hydraulic pump and either fell out before disassembly (which explains the lack of motion) or they dropped out when the pump was lifted.
the handle you are looking at in @44:00 is the slew lock pin.... it enables you to lock the slew ring for the transport of the excavator.
Thanks
Friday nights have meaning again..thank you Andris,good luck to you and your channel!
LOL damb thats funny. YOu know tv is crap when....
Thanks, you too!
Classic quote from this video at 1:23:35 haha.
“I hate when I don’t know crap about stuff” - Ants Pants
I grew up on a cattle farm and messed with a lot of stuff growing up. Your videos are nostalgic for me. I love em all thanks so much man!
😅
Bro, i need stickers or a tshirt that i can buy from your store.
You’re a hilarious dude.. and do great work. Keep it up
Thanks dude
Hi Ants pants firstly I just wanted to say I’m a big fan of your Chanel keep up the good work bro. The lever sticking out of the panel located behind your feet when your sitting on the machine is most likely a “slew lock” lever which essentially drops a pin from the rotating house (what you sit on that spins) and the track frame locking the two together for transport purposes. Also the two “needle bearings” are likely dowels which hold the port plate (that round brass piece) in a fixed position with the hydraulic motor housing so it doesn’t spin with the piston housing as it’s not suppose to. The splines that have worn out in your final drive are on a part called the sun gear shaft. That shaft is made from a softer metal and is designed to be worn out and replaceable over time saving the rest of the final drive from damage. Also the springs have likely come from behind the two plungers that press on the swash plate to help it return to a neutral position. I hope this helps 👍🏻
Thanks m8. Sadly i lost one pin
This is one of the repairs of all time.
😆
I fell asleep somewhere on "removing plate", 7 hours later I was woken up by the sounds of the angle grinder from another Ants video. this is so relaxing ahhaha
Haha
Extracting rusted / siezed bolts and components can be made so much easier by applying some heat and then spray on a mixture of atf (2/3) and acetone (1/3). The heat will suck the fluid into the joint or threads and make removal so smooth and simple. It has rarely ever failed me.
Ohh
Great tip! I'll keep this one in mind....
@@philipreich7035 sucks into the joint just like soldering a copper joint
Thanks Andris, great video and love your humour. Great work making that tool.
Few words for ya . Get a real torch,get a magnet, pentrating spray. But you didn't give up man
Great job
Need to get a oxy torch yeh
Once more, balls of steel! Perseverance pays off! Well done man, and all done at 0 degrees!
Phil, uk
Hi Andris.
I have recently found your channel, immediately subscribed and now i cant get enough of it. :)
WHAT THE CRAP, man? :)
You are SO entertaining. The humour, the cuts, the way you talk and present things...everything is top notch. You are very likeable person and also somewhat relatable.
I feel like you are some old weird friend of mine somewhat haha.
Also - this it the only channel on RUclips that can get my attention for 1+ hour straight.
Like, seriously. Now i anticipatе every video. 1 hour, 2 hours...doesnt matter. The more the better.
I am here for the long run, dude:)
Thank you so much for you, being you.
Now excuse me. I have to go all over your videos and give them a thumbs up. Just for the sport. MAYBE.
Best wishes.
George
Sofia, BG
I agree. Except Andrew and Matt do 1 hour or more vids as well
So kind, thanks for the comment bro
That there Harry Houdini was a master at getting out of tight situations ,You Andris are a master of finding a method of getting into them That jig set up on the bench was a work of art and very practical ,as you have realised by now i'm not into all the technical details of the jobs you do, I just enjoy how you do them ,You have a way of doing things that very few would even think of,,That's very special indeed ,keep entertaining like this please ,,Pamela ,,🐰💐💐🛒
Wow, thanks
Another great video to view Andris but certainly outside of my pay grade regarding any input to help you better understand the failure point(s), replacement needs, or reassembly.
Thanks dude
HI Ants, the three needles you found keep the pressure on your rotary block and are located on three equally divided positions on the circumference of the splined shaft. They push against the spheric cup that retracts your pistons. The pistons follow the cam plate. In the centre of the rotary block there is a spring located to maintain the pressure. Hope I could help you a bid.
I repaired a lot of those final drives and its a common problem after a certain amount of hours. This one doesn't look too bad, I've seen much worse.
I would like to help you with this, but there is a big distance between you and my place unfortunately, but I wish you good luck. One tip, make sure everything is 200% clean during reassembly.
Thanks bud, sadly i lost one pin lol
The power goes completely out, but the video continues. Thanks for sharing all the hard work!
You're welcome!
I follow diesel creek,letsdig 18,dirt perfect,andrew camarata,c&c equipment and a few more on you tube with great pleasure but I have to say that Ant P.is the favourite.I've said it before his humour,determination and lovely self criticism is totally unbeatable. I hope you get a million subscribers soon. Thank you!
Let's hope 😅
Yeah, let’s dig just buys newish Volvo’s - time is money for an operation like his. I don’t think he has half the skills of Ants but that’s ok, he is good at what he does.
Andris, those 2 metal rings with rubber ring behind them are floating seals. If u decide to fix this final drive u can bring those seals to machine shop to refinish surfaces(if u want to cheap out). Also grove where rubber ring sits must be rust free otherwise it will leak again.
Ok
Another great video , as usual !! Your determination , perserverance , humour and inquiring mind is amazing ( you are a lot smarter than you make out , Ants ) . Not only are your videos great , but very entertaining , one of the best on RUclips , as the comments will back me up , with the diversity of your avid audience !!!!! And you dont have to thank us for watching , we should be thanking you for posting !!!!!!
I don't mind 😇
Hey Andris, I admire your persistence in the face of the hydraulic mafia, it was very satisfying when you completely broke down the final drive. Also, it's very satisfying when you bring out the Nut Buster, which I admit, you use very judiciously :)
😅👍
Yesterday mid video I thought about how crazy it is that I was watching a two hour long video about the maintenance on an excavator. A piece of machinery I’ll never own or even use. I watched it getting repainted and the lights installed. I watched it do work around the house.. I know about a lot the other machines around your house and how to do maintenance on them. I followed the renovation of the cabins, the zip line, the bridge over the water, the slide for the kids,.. It’s all such fun to follow. I look forward to your videos each week and I’m impressed how you get all that work done and edit it. Don’t burn yourself out, be safe and thanks for the great content! Wish you a lot of success so you can buy more stuff for crazy projects 😂!
Thanks dude. I will try to keep up
KINK1 - legendary license plate
There's a story there.😄
I think Ants needs to elaborate a little more on that one.
Idk how but my sister somehow scored her family name as a license plate
I seriously respect your perseverance. Dominate that screw!
Your work on this assembly in the conditions you are in was beautifully done. The ring removal tool was brilliant. I believe the hydraulic motor was a swash type piston drive that converts the vertical movement of the pistons to rotary motion on the plate. Your diagnosis seems well thought out. Figuring out how to get that wire out was amazing. It looks as if all it needs is 2 bearings, the 2 splined parts and a seal. Great video as well. Thank you.
A new floating seal, 2 main bearings and 2 shafts as spare parts cost almost 1000 eur 😆
I got excited when you said a word of your sponsor; Excited because I think you deserve a sponsor and your content is chill af. I know there are people that get salty about content creators "selling out" but if it helps you, it helps me...
😇
Those "needles" you found... if they are from a bearing the bearing was clearly bad and the needles will be well out of round.... If they are round and undamaged then I would say they are locator pins of some kind. Alas look for a little hole they will fit in... probably two of them?
And note in your own video exactly when you found them. As it looks like they were loose they must be from "above" where you found them.
great work.
good observation, and having the video is certainly an advantage after disassembling everything.
Yeah i think your right. Sadly i lost 1 pin
@@Ants_Pants I'm guessing with your lathe you can make some new ones.
3 needles are probably from the motor, where the pistons goes. They are sort of a spacer. The piston housing may have 3 little holes near the center shaft
The welding and grinding scene reminds me of the first Ironman movie when they were in the cave
Im always in that cave... Never get out
Fridays can’t come soon enough. Great entertainment. Your determination is admirable. Happy weekend!
Thank you! You too!
I'm so impressed at you getting them stubborn bolts out. Great persistence.
Thanks 👍
Yes yes yes brilliant an uploaded video from my favourite RUclipsr cant wait too watch this and a long one fantastic love love these long videos ants best thing to put on tv keep um coming pal
You're the best!
27:35 you basically have a car lift just use the tunnel you can stand up and be eye level with the motor.
I was actually waiting for the new video
😂me too
Same! 😂
Tack!
🤙
Again a video where you tear into something I can barely comprehend, and do so with gusto. Every project, every job is interesting and well thought through. Every video I learn something and i am grateful I discovered your channel. It has become my favorite.
Awesome, thank you!
Aah, my favorite friday night treat! Thank you Andris, as usual a top notch video 😀
Andris: your videos are like a man on Mars trying to make re-entry with earth against all odds, using your wits and tools at your disposal. Love the stuff you produce. The giant Soviet tractor is next for sure!!
I agree. But a Santa helps!
So are you the secret Santa? @@earlleelethbridge566
Lol
Thanks!
No problem!
Hey buddy, the sketch level was high at first, but you made it into the shop. 👍 You went deeper than I probably would have. Now youtube has a video of the disassemblely on a Yanmar drive unit. Awesome👍👍
Noticed that too, only video 😅
Great video, Andris. Persistence paid off with the disassembly process, especially building the nut release tool. It's really enjoyable to watch to problem solve. Have a great weekend, mate
Well said!
You know why the last one bolt is ALWAYS so stuck? Because beside that it's rusted it holds ALL the tension of the part, so to make your life easier, reinstall two bolts on either side of the last one, remove it and then remove those two bolts...
Ants you have out done yourself on this one! Man, you find the most ingenious ways to solve a problem and fitting and welding that part, Man!! hats off to your efforts. I agree you learn with trial and error. I was hoping you would been able to fix it instead of spending that much money but sometimes you have to do what you have to in order to get things up and running! I knew you would have hobbled that YANMAR in there...LMAO! I have no idea about these parts but the video was a good one, learning a lot!! Maybe Santa Clauz will show up with a present!!!
Andris, you impress me further with every video you produce, you are the ultimate brain candy. Thank you and Take care.
So nice of you
Use an SDS drill on hammer only with an old bit cut off flat to brake hose fitting and nuts free from rust works every time for me
I go after rusty bolts like that with my needle scaler. It’ll pound the rust out of every nook and cranny and actually loosen bolts up. Great for getting the dirt and mud out like he had around those hoses too.
Hi Andris 👋😃
Thanks for the nice long video.
My pleasure!
i love this channel more and more, ty so mutch for all you give us
Thanks sir
'Preparing a sarcophagus' sun=ms it up Andris. Yep, if you can source parts, good and well as it will help for when you do the other side. But, I can't help feel that a new drive and then cannibalising the parts from Side 1 for Side 2 when you need to do it is still a cost-saving plan. Thanks again for putting up something I will NEVER have to undertake for myself. I'm just off to sand a threshold plat in the house that has swollen because of moisture and then swap a set of door handles. That's the extent of my DIY for the next wee while - until gardening weather resumes!
😅👍
Hello. 1:39:40 of the video. There are 2 opposite holes or groves on the inside part of the plate. May those 2 needles live there?
Yes i think so
Nice to dive in this final dest.... drive assembly with you. Learning as we go as well. Really like this hydraulic stuff! As allways super cool movie.
Cool, thanks
Maybe the "needles" are locating pins/dowels for something in the hydraulic motor? Maybe between the halves? Many hydraulic components have locating pins for precision.
The floating seal has two metal rings,one in each rotating part. The orings just press them together. Remember they need to be put in with the orings absolutely dry and clean! No oil!
Greetings from sweden 🎉
Most likely yeah, sadly i lost one pin
Your a smart guy, not many people would have been able to strip that unit with the facilities you have. I look forward to the next video
Thanks
You did it again. Another great video.
Thanks again!
man, that custom tool was pure genius.
Worked like a charm
Great job Andris. Wow lots of parts to that final. Good choice to get a replacement. After buying all the replacement parts necessary it might a wash.
Yup
the never give up attitude and win at all costs keeps me a super happy subscriber
Thanks dude
loved this one, thanks for posting. As for the hydraulic lines, Id be tempted to wait until one busted and then replace them all. You may have upgraded before any actually fail and you can always warn any future new owner of this concern. Those gears certainly look pretty and if they're totally unusable, would make into some nice artwork :)
Hehe
1:00:26 Thunder Dome of Welding, lmao. Glad to see you win with that, another cool video.
Haha
An absolutely beautiful video. Please keep them coming. Your determination and hard work paid off with a great story. Thank you.
Thank you! Will do!
I finally had time to watch this. I wasn't disappointed. I really enjoy these teardowns. It's so interesting how they can make all these different parts. Then make it work all together as one. Your take on how to disassemble all this was excellent. You're pretty darn crafty. Let's hope you're successful finding parts. Because putting it back together is when things really get interesting. Also what a great video it will be. Last thing. I think those roller bearings might of come from somewhere else in the machine. Take care from Canada eh!
Went ahead and bought a new drive. New drive was 1200 but parts to fix old was 1000 eur.
Great to see all your skills improving and bringing them all together
Thanks 👍
I like the way you think Andris! You think outside the box….well done on your judgement…
Thanks bud
One thing i would do is paint used motor oil all over these hidden motors and lines , each time i have the covers off for inspection .
Grease is alot easier to deal with then rust.
Kinda like with old guys with there cars.
Dump used motor oil down car doors on inside to keep salt from rusting out doors.
Great video. As always ❤
Problem is that the outer casing of the hoses isn't necessarily oil resistant
Mmh
1:45:31 no there is a pannel on the bottom center from there you replaced the lines. They are connected to your hydraulic swivel joint. Whic has total of 8 lines for motor (4 each) and 2 for dozer blade. That is in lower part, also the same in the upper but you dont need that yet.😂
Never tire of watching your stuff, Andris...definitely one of the best channels out there...👍
Must admit, did have to chuckle at the 'A word from our sponsors ' moment...you seem to be doing quite well without them, and definitely don't need that 'BS'...
Keep up the great work, buddy...already looking forward to your next video...👍😊
😅
Morning Ants, I went through and rebuilt the final drive on my New Holland LT185 super boom skid steer. I didn’t touch the motor side, but I found a rebuild shop that walked me through it and supplied the parts and it only cost around one fourth the cost. If you can get one for $1,600 get it. I had that much in parts. A rebuilt final drive no pump was $5,500 here in theUS. Thanks for the video.
Nice work mate. I did order the 2 shafts and a bearing for rebuild, havent got around it yet though, not worth it though the 2 shafts alone was 500 eur while the entire new drive was 1200 lol
For removing the bearing raceways, weld a metal disc in the middle of them, when the weld cools and contracts, it will pull the raceway tight/smaller in diameter, and ideally it will 'fall out'
Not planning to remove them
I just bought a B27 with a bad right travel motor. This is an extremely helpful video or at least it will be if I ever get around to fixing it lol. Thanks.
Lol 😅👍
You are my hero. Never give up. Love your patience and big brain:)
😇
Hi Andris, I hope you are having a good weekend. I enjoyed your video, I don’t know how you do that complicated work, you are amazing. You’re always fun to watch and you work so hard I hope you get everything you want in life, you deserve it! Get some rest and take care
So kind of you 👍
@@Ants_Pants
Every thing I said is true 👍
Sure was an awful nice video.
I was rooting for you every bolt. Loved seeing what was inside there. Maybe a new machine and service manual you could have some success putting back together. Thanks again for all the hard work you put into making these videos. One of my favorite channels. Look forward to Friday's
Thanks 👍
I just found your channel and im straight up addicted to your videos. Love the chill vibe and humour. Greetings from Finland!
Hey 👍
Give rusted bolt heads and hose fittings a buzz with your air hammer to crack the rust/dirt to help remove them.
Or SDS hammer drill
Hi, I've got a similar drive in a kubota, I had the face seal leak, the floating seal is the two metal rings and two "o" rings (toroid). I replaced the face seal, parts came from Latvia £80 (kubota price £450).
The drive shaft that failed in your drive is very worn in mine, similar shafts are available from Latvia for £100, unfortunately not available for mine Kubota want £900+vat. Mine is now running, not leaking but at some time in the future the drive shaft will fail and like yours, the way forwards is a whole new drive for around £2,000. For anyone wondering the face seal is literally metal to metal with the rubber rings applying slight pressure, the metal rings "float" on the rubber, the face is precisely ground at a slight angle, dirt can't get into the gap and oil can't get out. Compacted mud, wear and tear, eventually wins and starts a leak, the oil and grit mix and destroy the face. Mine lasted 26 years then probably leaked out the small amount of oil, over a few hours of use. You only get a small window of opportunity to save the drive!
Good comment this. The maffia dude offered me spare parts for rebuild 2 main bearings, floating seal, face seal, 2 shafts for 1.1k, at the same time a replacement aftermarket drive for 1.2k, it's obvious what i chose 😂
Your videos are free therapy sessions.
Haha
Until I found you, I never heard of Estonia. I took one of those DNA tests and found out in my ancestory that I have a person or more in my linage of Estonian blood. So at seventy four now, a former mechanic, I too beat on this "CRAP" and found myself wanting C4 to open up parts and pieces or blow it to pieces. I would find another excavator of same type of drive system for parts as yours might become the parts for another machine or be fixed by another one. I can't say if the hours on a machine kills them or just the kind of work they did to wear one out. I know now that rebuilding one takes more patience than what I possess... You are a entertainment center and this video shows damn good metal in you
Yeah totally agree m8
Hi Andris, love watching your mechanical escapades and comments! ;-) I had a thought on your heater.........why don't you let the exhaust gases run through an old radiator first? By doing that you would preserve some extra heat inside before blowing it out unused? A so called sand battery would do the trick as well.........had the additional advantage of warming up parts or lunch ;-)
Iv had no time to deal with that setup
You have much more courage than me to tackle this job!
Absolutely fascinating post Antz. Very motivating and I learnt a lot. Thanks.
Glad to hear it!
You’re a champ brother. You do not give up. Just loved watching you work.
I appreciate that!
MM77 Approved 👍🏻👍🏻………………………………….Always entertaining and 90% of the time I learn something……………most of the time, I learn something from you struggling. I will use a jack to bust a nut loose when I can’t get a cheater bar on a wrench. I’ve never thought of that!!
Worked but the jack has to be tilted as its pushing vertically
Hope this will help next time you need some tapered wooden pegs any time you do hydroponics nice slow taper one size fits mostly all just shove them in the pipe or fittings leak stops and dirt can’t get in cheers
Cool tool!!! Nice work.
PTO is used for thumb, extra boom application, and the foot pedal is for track boost speed.
Ok
PTO is power take off. So they are controls for auxiliary or supplementary attachments.
1:40:26 i think they ajust the angle of the swashplate, to increes flow and decrees flow(high / low)
Yup
Yo dude me and my adult daughter we love watching your videos they are so funny and interesting we live in the UK but we also have a old log cabin like yours but in Poland which we are currently fixing up and hopfully living in the next year once complete I would love to take a drive to meet you some time in the future iv met another youtuber in our village in poland which also make videos on log cabin restorations
Hyvä.korjaus tuo aina taitoja joista ei itse tiedä omaavansa niin sinnikyys palkitaan kärsivällisyydellä sitä sinulla on.kiitos hienosta videosta tätä lisää.vaikka sähköt reistaa ole lujana kyllä käsivoiminkin työsi näyttää sujuvan
Cool m8. Thanks for the comment
I replaced a yammer B27 drive, have a video on my channel as well. Kudos to you for digging deeper! I ended up ordering a drive from Alibaba and replacing it whole. The face seal failed and allowed water and dirt into the planetary gears and the faceplate covering them was seized. I couldn't extract the wire and just left it alone. Seems to be a common failure point across many kinds of final drives. The seal goes, allows grit and water inside, then chews up the bearings until something binds up and breaks. In the US it is considered a grey market import machine so yammer USA does not provide parts support. Makes it difficult to get parts. I did however find the service manual for the machine if you ever need pictures of it. Cheers from Ohio, USA
Cool man i will check out your video. I ordered a manual from the states, cost about 200 eur lol with 3 months of shipping time... I got price offers for new bearings, seal, 2x shafts total 1000 eur. I ordered a replacement drive for 1200 eur
Until an actual video on how to disassemble the final drive get posted, Ants Pants video is the only go-to video on how to disassemble the inner workings 😂😂😂😂😂
😂
Maybe get one of those needle scalers that's used for removing welding slag. Maybe it would be useful in removing all kinds of crap around fasteners.
PTO = Power Take-Off... That is the auxiliary function. Handle should activate/deactivate and pedal for strength/speed and maybe also forward/backward (looked like it was a left/right rocker) if not, handle might do direction changes besides on/off.
Hmm
Nice Job and best entertaining,greetings from Germany
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nothing stupid to say but i'm still here, carry on Sir :)
😆
Iam impressed you managed to get that thing apart 👍🏼
You and me both!
Sorry, I'm no help bro...I know nothing about hydraulic drives. Great job on the homemade tool, and well on your way to 50K!!!
Thanks 👍