Glad you found it useful. the main reason for the post is that I couldn't find any tutorials that showed how to draw standard industry threads. All my prototypes were printed on a friends Ender3.
The best tutorial I have seen. Solved one of the promlems I had with M5 bolt I needed to create now I need to create a R3/8 thread, the cutter have a 55 degree angle with a pitch of 1.34 mm (19/inch) any similar nice instruction for these type of threads
Sounds like an interesting exercise. The principals should be similar. Try looking at the thread specs, they may give a hint. I only work with metric 60 degree so imperial is quite foreign to me.
Not sure if you're still reading this after 3yrs, but it pays to convert your nut/bolt into a tap and die set. Eg for the bolt, you make an extra long one, say 100mm, then you Combine (subtract) that from an equal length cylinder. The result is a die than can be copied and Combine/subtracted from a simple cylinder to make new bolts of any length in a couple of seconds. Same goes for converting the nut to a tap. It makes it worthwhile to spend a bit of time to get the one tap/die perfect, or even make a set with different tolerances, because it saves a lot of time on future threads.
Thanks for the input. I'm to get my head around your method. Have you created a library of taps and dies of the sizes that you commonly use to copy to your drawing, to Combine with your cylinder to make the threads?
@@RaymRaym-ri7lo Yeah. A tap is the inverse of a _nut_ thread and a die is the inverse of a _bolt_ thread, so you can start with a standard nut/bolt and covert them to tap/die with the Combine tool on a cylinder ... then Combine the tap/die to make nuts/bolts in the future. If you make them long (like >100mm) one tap/die will do all the standard lengths, and you never need to manually draw that thread again. Taps are probably more useful in objects to be 3D printed, you can quickly put threaded holes where you need them. There's less need to print bolts.
Cheers, another solution, I can see the benefit in only having to make the tap or die once. My method is to replicate single point treading as a lathe, of which I am quite experienced. I might create a library of cutters to call on instead of drawing them each time. Tolerances are printer based so remain the same regardless of diameter or thread pitch.
Thanks for this tutorial. Is there a particular reason why you didn't split the 0.6mm tolerance equally between the bolt and nut? i.e. 0.3mm for both bolt and nut rather than 0.35mm for the bolt and 0.25mm for the nut.
The printer we used for proving the setup, increased its sizes more on an external curve than an internal curve. Using those tolerances meant that printed nuts and bolts fitted their metal equivalents. That was the main point of the exercise, to produce a printed nut or bolt that was the same as the machine standard.
Tolerances used in the video where for an Ender3 using PLA. Different printers or filament may give different results. The process is to print a nut, adjust the tolerance for a nice fit to good quality metal bolt. Subtract the new tolerance from .6mm for the bolt tolerance. If the fit of the printed bolt to a metal nut is not to spec, adjust the bolt tolerance for a nice fit. This could mean a different tolerance than .6mm for different printer filament combinations.
Try creating a plain along the line where you want the cut then use the split a solid tool. I am in the outback away from my desk until Sept. Will follow this up further then, if you can wait that long.
Hi Raym, the tolerances for the Ender3 printer, if you are putting in a minus figure is it making the hole bigger or smaller, I am asking because if I design say a part for say a 16mm hole for a bearing and print it on my ender3 the hole is too small
Hi, the hole ID for a nut needs to be smaller than the drill size and the shaft OD for the bolt needs to be smaller than the drill size as well, this gives the 0.6mm clearance in the 3D drawing. When printed, bolt threads have a large OD and nuts have a smaller ID so the clearance is tighter. The numbers only applies to threads to match them to fit standard metric nuts and bolts. You would need to experiment with clearances to have a good fit between bearings and shafts.
Not quite sure what you mean but the length of the thread is entered in the dialogue box with the thread pitch and taper before you execute the operation to form the thread, or create the thread and form the the cap second.
I agree. With DSM, if you haven't done single point threading on a lathe, the DSM method takes a bit to get your head around, especially if you wish to match existing thread standards. Working out what extra tolerances you need to allow for printer creep, adds further difficulty. The method I have described will make non standard matching threads, just pick your own diameter and tread pitch.
Finally a good tutorial creating standard threads. Thanks a lot.
This is a great tutorial. Thanks, just what I have been looking for. Tolerances are perfect for my ender 3.
Glad you found it useful. the main reason for the post is that I couldn't find any tutorials that showed how to draw standard industry threads. All my prototypes were printed on a friends Ender3.
Amazing tutorial! Once i figured out how to get all my icons back in DSM [polygon icon and others kept disappearing], its now soooo easy!
The best tutorial I have seen. Solved one of the promlems I had with M5 bolt I needed to create now I need to create a R3/8 thread, the cutter have a 55 degree angle with a pitch of 1.34 mm (19/inch) any similar nice instruction for these type of threads
Sounds like an interesting exercise. The principals should be similar. Try looking at the thread specs, they may give a hint. I only work with metric 60 degree so imperial is quite foreign to me.
Thanks, for the details and the clarity of the explanations. Do it again!
Thanks, will do! I've just posted another.
brilliant!
Not sure if you're still reading this after 3yrs, but it pays to convert your nut/bolt into a tap and die set.
Eg for the bolt, you make an extra long one, say 100mm, then you Combine (subtract) that from an equal length cylinder. The result is a die than can be copied and Combine/subtracted from a simple cylinder to make new bolts of any length in a couple of seconds. Same goes for converting the nut to a tap.
It makes it worthwhile to spend a bit of time to get the one tap/die perfect, or even make a set with different tolerances, because it saves a lot of time on future threads.
Thanks for the input. I'm to get my head around your method. Have you created a library of taps and dies of the sizes that you commonly use to copy to your drawing, to Combine with your cylinder to make the threads?
@@RaymRaym-ri7lo Yeah. A tap is the inverse of a _nut_ thread and a die is the inverse of a _bolt_ thread, so you can start with a standard nut/bolt and covert them to tap/die with the Combine tool on a cylinder ... then Combine the tap/die to make nuts/bolts in the future. If you make them long (like >100mm) one tap/die will do all the standard lengths, and you never need to manually draw that thread again. Taps are probably more useful in objects to be 3D printed, you can quickly put threaded holes where you need them. There's less need to print bolts.
Cheers, another solution, I can see the benefit in only having to make the tap or die once. My method is to replicate single point treading as a lathe, of which I am quite experienced. I might create a library of cutters to call on instead of drawing them each time. Tolerances are printer based so remain the same regardless of diameter or thread pitch.
great tutorial! thank you! please keep making these useful videos!
Amazing video. Thank you so much!!!
Thank you sir for your effort. Well explained.
Thanks, make an inquiry if you need further clarification.
Thanks for this tutorial. Is there a particular reason why you didn't split the 0.6mm tolerance equally between the bolt and nut? i.e. 0.3mm for both bolt and nut rather than 0.35mm for the bolt and 0.25mm for the nut.
The printer we used for proving the setup, increased its sizes more on an external curve than an internal curve. Using those tolerances meant that printed nuts and bolts fitted their metal equivalents. That was the main point of the exercise, to produce a printed nut or bolt that was the same as the machine standard.
@@RaymRaym-ri7lo That makes sense - thanks for clarifying.
Tolerances used in the video where for an Ender3 using PLA. Different printers or filament may give different results. The process is to print a nut, adjust the tolerance for a nice fit to good quality metal bolt. Subtract the new tolerance from .6mm for the bolt tolerance. If the fit of the printed bolt to a metal nut is not to spec, adjust the bolt tolerance for a nice fit. This could mean a different tolerance than .6mm for different printer filament combinations.
you are great, thanks a lot!!!!
Glad it helped!
Thanks, very helpful
With your considerable knowledge, could you outline steps for CUTTING a 4" flat, disc in half, how get the axis?. Thanks!
Try creating a plain along the line where you want the cut then use the split a solid tool. I am in the outback away from my desk until Sept. Will follow this up further then, if you can wait that long.
I have just posted a video on how to use the plane tool to split solids.
Hi Raym, the tolerances for the Ender3 printer, if you are putting in a minus figure is it making the hole bigger or smaller, I am asking because if I design say a part for say a 16mm hole for a bearing and print it on my ender3 the hole is too small
Hi, the hole ID for a nut needs to be smaller than the drill size and the shaft OD for the bolt needs to be smaller than the drill size as well, this gives the 0.6mm clearance in the 3D drawing. When printed, bolt threads have a large OD and nuts have a smaller ID so the clearance is tighter. The numbers only applies to threads to match them to fit standard metric nuts and bolts. You would need to experiment with clearances to have a good fit between bearings and shafts.
Very helpful
I am having trouble making my end cap screw all the way down, the thread ends before the cap is flush
Not quite sure what you mean but the length of the thread is entered in the dialogue box with the thread pitch and taper before you execute the operation to form the thread, or create the thread and form the the cap second.
I really wish DSM would add a threading tool. Fusion 360 makes threading so easy. But fusion 360 is pricey for commercial works
I agree. With DSM, if you haven't done single point threading on a lathe, the DSM method takes a bit to get your head around, especially if you wish to match existing thread standards. Working out what extra tolerances you need to allow for printer creep, adds further difficulty. The method I have described will make non standard matching threads, just pick your own diameter and tread pitch.