Thanks Tim great video! I didn’t know that the fuse could be open like yours are. I started several years ago building the models from Flight Test eventually using their free plans. I really like the light weight open concept you demonstrated here. I live in Colorado and the days with no wind are few at best…so most of my experience is in “crashing” because of the winds we have. I will definitely be watching for calm days to fly from now on. I appreciate your videos-thanks again.
Great video liked the biplane the most. I've made several plane similar like to buy carbon that's. 0.5mm x 3mm, cut it into the wing (and glued either side). It does take a little longer than gluing a rod to the under side but think it just looks a bit neater and a bit cleaner. PS I made a indoor plane from 1mm carbon and cover it with cling film (british term for clear thin plastic stuff) like you. Flies great on those summer nights when you have no wind. Alas it only flown 3 times in the last 3 yrs Doh!
Enjoyed that immensely! Not sure hot glue would work in the summer here in Texas. I bought a Crash Test Hobbies Albatross and the instructions recommend low temp hot glue, but after learning that low temp hot glue can be affected by temps in the low 100 degree range, I opted to use Beacon Adhesives Foam TAC (EPP foam) for assembly. Not sure what part of the US you live in and maybe excessive heat (think leaving planes in your car in the summer until you are ready to fly) would affect them. Cheers!
I agree with you, I try to avoid hot glue in general especially if the plane will sit in a hot car for any length. BSI foam cure is also good and alot cheaper than the Beacon. It's a little thinner and takes a little longer to set up but once cured is very strong, good on wood to foam bonds too.
@@greg0063 I'll have to give BSI foam cure a try. I debated on what to use as Crash Test Hobbies suggest Beacon Quick Grip but that has a lot of VoC's to deal with and was trying to stay away from that as my workspace is not well ventilated.
@@edsherrod5216 If I was going to build a Crash Test Hobbies (epp correct?) plane I would use the Shoo Goo or E6000. It's very tough I use it for epp and epo wing joins. You do have to be careful on epo since it could be a styrene mix (might soften the foam before it cures) depending on the foam. Just do a small test and don't use too much on the join. Epp doesn't care about solvents so use what you want. You did mention the fumes... E6000, Shoo Goo, and Welders have tolulene if I'm not mistaken. They suck when it comes to fumes. I let those cure in my garage if I use them on a large area.
@@greg0063 Hi Greg006 - yes, I've done my time with Toulene as most solvents for both plastic and balsawood used to use it profusely back in the dark ages when I was a teenager. :-) Trying to work inside on this plane so I have to keep the vapors at bay (some are okay, but enough to get high is not). However, to test your theory I did buy a 2 ounce tube of E6000 and if I can make some time to clear off my bench in the garage (would take a few hours as it is piled high of modeling "stuff", I'll give the E6000 a shot. Thanks for the tip.
Tim, this is a little off topic, but when doing an rc conversion on Guillows or similar, is it best to rig ailerons with a separate servo in each wing or use a center mounted servo with control cables running out into the wings? Do you have any videos on how to do that?
Daniel: I have done it both ways. Two servos in the Hellcat conversion, one servo with the Zero. Two servos usually easier, just use lightweight servos. Tim
Great job as usual Tim,
Danny: Thanks for watching! Tim
Thank you so much, that helped a LOT on my school project.
I hope my teacher likes mine!
Go3in: Glad it helped, good luck on future projects! Tim
Thanks Tim great video! I didn’t know that the fuse could be open like yours are. I started several years ago building the models from Flight Test eventually using their free plans. I really like the light weight open concept you demonstrated here. I live in Colorado and the days with no wind are few at best…so most of my experience is in “crashing” because of the winds we have. I will definitely be watching for calm days to fly from now on. I appreciate your videos-thanks again.
Jim: No worries, thanks for checking in! Tim
Very interesting as always !! Thanks again for making these videos.
1983: Glad you like them, thanks again for checking in! Tim
Great job, Tim. 👍
John: Glad you enjoyed it! Tim
Amazing!
Timur: Thank you! Cheers! Tim
Great video liked the biplane the most. I've made several plane similar like to buy carbon that's. 0.5mm x 3mm, cut it into the wing (and glued either side). It does take a little longer than gluing a rod to the under side but think it just looks a bit neater and a bit cleaner. PS I made a indoor plane from 1mm carbon and cover it with cling film (british term for clear thin plastic stuff) like you. Flies great on those summer nights when you have no wind. Alas it only flown 3 times in the last 3 yrs Doh!
Mark: Great inputs, thanks for sharing! Tim
I like it👍
Thanks! Tim
Enjoyed that immensely! Not sure hot glue would work in the summer here in Texas. I bought a Crash Test Hobbies Albatross and the instructions recommend low temp hot glue, but after learning that low temp hot glue can be affected by temps in the low 100 degree range, I opted to use Beacon Adhesives Foam TAC (EPP foam) for assembly. Not sure what part of the US you live in and maybe excessive heat (think leaving planes in your car in the summer until you are ready to fly) would affect them. Cheers!
I agree with you, I try to avoid hot glue in general especially if the plane will sit in a hot car for any length. BSI foam cure is also good and alot cheaper than the Beacon. It's a little thinner and takes a little longer to set up but once cured is very strong, good on wood to foam bonds too.
Yes, I agree with Greg's point on the glue as well. Tim
@@greg0063 I'll have to give BSI foam cure a try. I debated on what to use as Crash Test Hobbies suggest Beacon Quick Grip but that has a lot of VoC's to deal with and was trying to stay away from that as my workspace is not well ventilated.
@@edsherrod5216 If I was going to build a Crash Test Hobbies (epp correct?) plane I would use the Shoo Goo or E6000. It's very tough I use it for epp and epo wing joins. You do have to be careful on epo since it could be a styrene mix (might soften the foam before it cures) depending on the foam. Just do a small test and don't use too much on the join. Epp doesn't care about solvents so use what you want. You did mention the fumes... E6000, Shoo Goo, and Welders have tolulene if I'm not mistaken. They suck when it comes to fumes. I let those cure in my garage if I use them on a large area.
@@greg0063 Hi Greg006 - yes, I've done my time with Toulene as most solvents for both plastic and balsawood used to use it profusely back in the dark ages when I was a teenager. :-) Trying to work inside on this plane so I have to keep the vapors at bay (some are okay, but enough to get high is not). However, to test your theory I did buy a 2 ounce tube of E6000 and if I can make some time to clear off my bench in the garage (would take a few hours as it is piled high of modeling "stuff", I'll give the E6000 a shot. Thanks for the tip.
Awesome planes I'd love to try to make the the lite ranger 3 in a larger scale .
AAA: That would be cool! Tim
Tim, this is a little off topic, but when doing an rc conversion on Guillows or similar, is it best to rig ailerons with a separate servo in each wing or use a center mounted servo with control cables running out into the wings? Do you have any videos on how to do that?
Daniel: I have done it both ways. Two servos in the Hellcat conversion, one servo with the Zero. Two servos usually easier, just use lightweight servos. Tim