Hello, Jim. Are you talking about what I called the cover fastening screws? You can call them coach bolts if you like. In the Singer Parts list, they are part number 140354R and they are listed there as "Motor Bracket and Box Cover Screw". At first, I thought you meant Carriage bolt, like in this article: www.accu.co.uk/en/p/130-what-is-the-difference-between-carriage-bolts-and-coach-bolts You are correct that the parts I called bearings are not bearings at all, but bushings. They are made of bronze, actually, not brass, but no matter. I stand duly corrected by you about the bearings and you are absolutely correct that they are bushing on this motor, and now we know. I apologize for misleading my viewers. I always try my best but was wrong about the bearings. They are on one of the other motor types for model 99K and I got mixed up. I'll pin your comment to the top so other viewers will know they are bushings and not bearings. Thanks for watching it.
My understanding is the difference between a screw and a bolt is that the threads continue to the head on a screw(not wood screw) and a bolt has a portion unthreaded. Often but not always a coach bolt has domed head and a square portion on the shank that stops it spinning in the hole. Some come with a hex head but I would expect to see these used in wood not in a motor housing. The bushing is an oil impregnated bronze bushing. All to the best of my knowledge
@@dunc71 These things go by all sorts of names. Carriage and coach is much the same. As far as I know, the squared off shaft under the head is properly used in a pre-cut square opening in metal, but a lot of joiners simply use the square section to give a bit more bite as it sinks into the wood. Another variation is sometimes called a roofing bolt. The roofing bolt has a full length thread. Yes, they come with round or hex heads. One brand of bushing is Oilite. Of course, on these motors, having one end squared off saves another assembly step like a second spanner or screwdriver.
Excellent video! There is an important step that needs to be included during the re-assembly - that is to re-align the upper and lower motor bearings. This was done at the factory during original assembly, but that alignment would have been lost when the upper and lower motor housings were separated during this refurbishing. The bearing on the end opposite the pulley is a "self-aligning" bearing. "Self-aligning" means that it is capable of gimballing on a spherical seat, but it has a high clamping force. So the bearing needs to be "shocked" back into alignment. Here's how you do it. Hold the re-assembled motor in one hand and run it at full speed. While it is running at full speed, you tap the non pulley shaft end of the motor several times with a hammer. You do NOT tap it hard enough to damage the motor! If you think about how hard you'd be willing to tap your forearm with the hammer, that's about the right force. After one or two taps, you'll hear the motor pick up considerable speed. You should not need more that three taps, probably two. I don't think that a rubber mallet would work, since you're depending on the "suddenness" of the tap to do the re-aligning. Very important, you're NOT tapping the pulley shaft end of the motor, but rather the opposite "solid" end of the motor! Singer used this same self-aligning bearing design on the motors on the 301, 401, 403, etc. machines, so this procedure also applies to them.
What a fascinating comment, Bill. I'd never heard of anything like this, even from the retired Singer guys. I'll try this on the next motor I work on. I'd encourage you to post a video of the process if you have the time. I'd be happy to post a slideshow referring my viewers to it, and I hear I can add a "Card" on my existing videos to "pop-out" and reference your video. I appreciate you sharing this and I'll pin it to the top of this comment section for others who may be interested. Thanks for watching my channel.
Thank you for the nice comment, Pamela. Very kind of you. If you did not see it I have a 21-video playlist of videos for this model: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z I appreciate you watching my channel.
Thank you for this video. Until I found it, I was afraid to tackle the motors for fear of damaging them through some stupid error on my part. You explain everything in such detail that I was able to disassemble mine, clean and lubricate it, and get it back together again correctly without replaying your video even once. Thank you!
Hey, nicely done Thomas. Thanks for keeping the machine in service. I usually go slow enough to follow along and you doing it in one play is a compliment to the both of us 🏆 Thanks for the nice comment and happy sewing.
When working with vintage screws , if I don't have the exact one, I'll sacrifice a screwdriver, filing it to a perfect fit for the slot . The screwdriver's easily replaced , whereas you'll never get back the time taken to extract a damaged set screw . Thanks for the video. Now it's time for me to tackle my own motor , it's always easier when you've seen it done first .
Hello Andy what a wonderful video. :) I just spent the last few hours following everything here step by step, playback a few times to get it right and "Voila", done like supper!!! Wow I truly appreciate you. My motor is from a Singer 227M RFJ12-8( hard to get instruction on but then I remembered you :) Merci, merci, merci from Lil xo No matter what everyone else thinks about words and explanations I think you are awesome and I understand everything you say Andy!!
@@lilboucher1480 thank you for keeping your machine in service I really appreciate your very nice comments it's viewers like you that really justify the efforts I have made with these videos I especially am grateful that after so many hours she still took the time to leave a comment you made my evening thanks so much 🙏
@@andytubesewing1953 Hi Andy, this machine was for a customer of mine I had cleaned, oil shinned her up nice but then when I took it back to her and ran it we noticed sparks from motor. Followed your instructions and it is now fully functional. You have been my teacher for 5 years now and I am still learning from you. Again many thanks :)
Hi Andy, hello again! Anna from the other side of the Pond! After we spoke in February for the sorting out of my 15--88's pedal and its capacitor, I went on to buy 3 more machines! A 201MK29, the aluminium one, at the end of Feb. It came with a motor but I did not feel like tackling it and put a hand crank on. It has been a wonderful new experience in sewing! I love it! The machine is the smoothest ever, with the most perfect straight stitch. Definitely one of my favourite! The latest additions last week: a 201-3 with a knee lever system (it came without a lever that I ordered online, yet to arrive) and then, last Saturday, by chance, totally unexpected (and full of guilt, as I just bought the second 201) a fabulous Toyota-made, late 50s/early 60s zig-zagger called Constellation. She is heavy as a ton! but in pristine conditions, and, as I discovered later, a rare European high-end version of a Sewmor 900 (it has got a complex zig-zag system and three needle positions, a button hole lever...still need to learn its features!). Her name is Barbarella, one, her late owner's name was Barbara, secondly, the look of the machine (with fins!) speaks of the swinging 60s, space exploration Era, and she is all turquoise and shiny. I am over the moon with them (a bit overwhelmed by renovation work obviously!) but again, I would have not ventured in restoring all of them if it had not been for your videos and teaching. Thank you. I am now willing to take up a bit of motor maintenance and heard for the first time in this video what a good motor sound should be. I have been struggling with trying to understand if mine were ok. Could you do a video with all the sounds, good and bad, that a machine motor, (according to the age, obvs. brands) should and should not do? I think it could be very helpful when we work with them and they are new to us. I also have a question, I have only an issue with Barbarella and it is aesthetics. She came with light brown spots on the base, the size of very small milk chocolate chips. They seem to be UNDERNEATH the still perfect shiny clear coat. I really do not understand what these are, and they are not going away. Could it be rust spot coming from the inside of the cast iron structure? It is a mystery to me. Any idea of what it could be? Thank you so much again for all you are doing, I feel I have spent this first half year learning a lot of new skills, despite Covid, it's a really good achievement. Btw, I also noticed how courses for technicians, in Europe at least, are non-existent. It is such a shame, people want to learn. You are really doing a public educational service to the World. Thank you. All the best, Anna.
If the machine is cast iron they yes, the spots may be rust, but I have had spots like that on two model 301A machines that are cast aluminum. These were pale spots, like chocolate milk, and in an area to the left of the upright. Down in the paint. I never figured them out, but a couple people also told me they had seen this on other machines, aluminum and iron and with and without clear coat. (The 301A is not clear coated) You are gathering quite a collection of machines there. They all sound very nice. I understand that a version of the 201 is called a 1200 and was made for dressmakers with a special knee lever system the raised and lowered the presser foot! Imagine that 😳 not having to use one hand to lift and lower the presser bar, but being able to keep both hands on the fabric. The rest of the 1200 is the same as the 201 in these records: www.singer.com/search/support?title=1200 Sorry, but I won't be doing a motor video like that. The cost and logistics are too much. Thanks for watching my channel and enjoy those marvelous machines. ✨
@@andytubesewing1953 oh, noo! I hoped in a different answer! Barbarella (the Constellation Zig Zag) is a true heavy weight cast iron Japanese made 60ish years young lady. These clones are sturdy! I have tried a light polish, it didn't have any great effect. I guess I'll have to live with it! The quality of the stitch is nothing compared to the old lady Singers (expecially the 201), but she is so much fun (a sewing machine with fins!) and with a .8 amp motor, wow! She runs! Thanks also for the info about the dressmaker 201. It will be a great machine for free motion quilting then, which I love to do! One thing that I was really missing was in fact the needle up/down position (which I have got on a 17 year old Janome). Though I have noticed that with a fine tuned pedal I can control that. Not just a plain button to push, but a good motor skill of the legs! :D Exercise!!!! Shame for the motor video, but thank you anyway! Take good care. Till the next conversation! Anna
Thanks for the great video. I have a RFJ 9-8 (for my Spartan 192K) and I took it apart because I saw some sparking through the opening on the commutator end. My carbon brushes are worn about the same amount as yours so I did not replace. Cleaned as you did but with alcohol only. Sparking seems is gone so that's a relief. Thanks!
Nicely Done! If they spark again in the future, try this newer method of seating the brushes to a clean commutator. You'll love this! ruclips.net/video/rpTy_Bz3prA/видео.html
@Andy Tube! :) Thanks bunches for this vid. I might give Stubborn a break tomorrow, and let him "stew" hehe.. I feel comfy to tackle the motor on my 99k.. I have a non singer too.. brother.. and it makes smells going at more than slow speeds or struggling with heavier fabric.. I might take a look at it's motor too and see if I see anything odd. It might be a wiring issue. Most of my machines were bought cheep, and I would love to learn to fix them up.. I like to sew canvas and denim bags cases and pouches. Soon maybe, dolls :) will see how it all goes! I sure wish you had a website. Even more, I am grateful you are so patient and kind with your tutorials here. Thank you again! You are my singer hero! :) hehe!
at 41:47, what size is that? I have a few but want to make sure I have the right size? and I watched the entire video. The only place you greased was at the top of the top cap, in the baring hole. I was told some motors need oil and some need grease. Have you found this to be right? Reason I ask, my 99k growls at me, no sparks, but it's like a growl once I get going with it. I have a treadle I love, but I have a motor for my 15-90 and 1591 (potted) and of course my 99k.. my 66 is a hand crank haha! :) thanks again, Andy!
Thank you, Andy. I will get the machine out and follow your advice. I considered the foot pedal as a possible issue. I will rewatch the video and check it. out . Thank you!
Great video. I have a 99K with a BZ 15-8 motor. The wiring is crumbling and must be replaced. Do you have a video on how to replace the wiring? Thank you - your videos are wonderful.
Andy, I’m pretty new to Sewing Machine restoration. You really helped me bring a 237 back to life, and now you’re leading the way as I work in on my own 1956 “99.” Thanks so much for sharing your expertise. One related question though- do you have a video on painting parts like the motor housing? Mine has quite a bit chipped away and I don’t know where to start (or if I should just leave it alone) Thanks again for all you share.
Welcome to VSM and restoration/tune-up work. I hope you enjoy it. I just sand the housing finish smooth and even. Maybe 600 then 900 grit. Then use 3 fine/light coats of Rustoleum 2X Gloss Black spraypaint.rustoleum.com/en/products/gloss-thd?ls=334026&lc=Gloss%20Black I have to be careful b/c I tend to be heavy-handed with the amount of paint and light coats of this gloss black are better. If the parts are really bad, like around a motor bracket or something, I use an orange-based gel paint stripper and detail brush to get down to bare metal on those parts, then 900 grit if the brush strokes show. Some folks like semi-gloss better. Thanks for watching my channel and don't be a stranger here.
Does anyone have a size for the shaft diameter at the pulley end or pulley bore? Just interested as looking to try DC motor of modern manufacture and more electronic speed control. Another question. Are these old machines (mines a 99 1927 year) earthed when a motor is attached? A good reason to go low voltage. Just watching Andy struggling with that set screw. I would want to check that out again to make sure it's in the right position. It's also worth with the pulley off, to run the set screw a good way through so that you can see it in the bore, just to make sure it's not catching on something. I had a similar problem when removing the hand (balance) wheel. Took the locking knob off, large diameter, plus the set screw (turn limit), cleaned it all up and put it back. Was careful to get the large three pronged washer in the right way round. No matter how much I tightened down the knurled knob, the balance wheel still span round. Took the knob off again and thoroughly cleaned all the threads and lubricated. It ran nicely down the shaft female thread and locked the balance wheel in place. Unlocking just as good. Surprising what some old crud can resist.
I have a 66 that came with an RF 4-8 motor that I can't find any information about. It looks very similar to this motor, but the housing is in 4 parts, and the carriage bolts are the other way around, requiring you to take off the pulley end before disassembly. I'm guessing they simplified this design for the RF5-8. Thanks for the video
I've had very little success finding good info about the vintage SInger motors. A few parts lists, some with diagrams, but not any detailed assembly or "exploded" pictures showing the assembly sequence. It's mostly been a trial-and-error adventure. I'm starting to believe SInger had different model numbers for the motors based on the country of manufacture also. Thanks for stopping by and for the interesting comment.
"J" was the Prefix for St-jean Richelieu, Quebec, Canada manufacture [ST-John Qc] from 1906 to 1986 , they even had their own serial #'s for a while, witch complicates finding parts or model years sometimes ;-)-
Nice comment, Dan. I'm familiar with the "J" serial numbers too. In fact, so far in 2019, I've received more emails asking about how/where to find parts for the "J" machines than any other models. I have not been able to help much, so "complicates finding parts" is dead-on accurate IMO. Thanks for watching and take care.
Thank you, Pam. I guess you mean between different model numbers? The problem is most motot=rs have a mounting bracket designed for a certain model. It needs to align the motor pulley to the handwheel properly. I don't recall being able to use a motor from one model on a different model other than the early slant needle models, like 401A, 403A, and 404 all use the same motor so they are interchangeable. Thanks for watching my channel.
Hi Andy, I just found your channel yesterday and I have learned a lot about opening up a motor. This video was just what I was looking for. You explain things where I can understand. I just purchased a Singer 99k yesterday and the motor barely turned over. When I got it home and cleaned it up and oiled the light came on but motor didn't make a sound. I am going to try my hand at cleaning the capacitor and check motor brushes to see out of curiosity if I can get it running. I have a new motor that shipped today but would love to see if I can get this original motor to work. Thank you so much for this video!
Thanks, Tammy. Keep an eye out for a loose wire. It seems like even with bad brushes or dirty commutators there would be a sound of some kind. Remember the electricity to the motor goes thru the foot controller first. ruclips.net/video/gcIB6VJ56Yk/видео.html Good Luck.
This is a great video. Is there good info out there on the BZ 15-8 Motor? I would have been lost with out this video, but would like to find more info on this type of motor.
I've never even seen a BZ motor. BR & BY & RF. The motor list says BZ motors were used on models 99, 275, 285. The BR & BY motors are very similar to the RF motor in the video.
thank you, and I'm glad you found the video. The 185K model is actually the new replacement for the 99K, and almost all of the parts are the same. (not all) If you ever have a maintenance issue on your 185K you will most likely find a solution in my "Cute" model 99K series. Take care, Janna, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 I just finished cleaning up the presser foot while watching your other Singer 99 video. When I first turned on this machine it sounded terrible, now it is purring away like a kitten!!! Thanks again! I will be sharing your page with friends and family who are refurbishing their own sewing machines! You are such a great teacher! :)
@@jannagordon8425 I'm happy you saved that motor! Nicely done, Janna. Also, thanks for the referrals. I always forget to ask people to like the videos. My friends tell me the more likes than the better chance of the video being high on the results lits when people do a search. I don't care about the kudos but simply hope more people will work on and save these nice machines. If you get another model of Singer be sure to check my playlist page where I have 450+ videos sorted by model number. Thanks again, and take care.
Great video! I have a similar motor for my 99k, also without grease tubes. I am wondering what kind of lubricant you added to the bushels? Since the original lubricant/grease is no longer to be found, it is a nightmare to navigate the different options, etc. Especially since these motors don't have grease ports.
After talking to a retired Singer repairman from Canada in 2021 I learned the bushings in a motor like this are "sintered bronze" and have oil impregnated in microscopic spaces. When the bushing is warmed during use the oil comes to the surface of the bushing to create a thin film for the shaft to ride on. When the bearing cools back down the oil "retreats" back into the spaces. He said when you have a Singer motor without lube tubes or a wicking system it is because they used sintered bushings. The older motors with lube tube systems did not have sintered bushings so they needed lubrication. SIngers original motor lube was made to slowly melt at operating temperatures and that resulting liquid would seep into a wick, usually made of wool, and keep the shaft lubricated. Grease is basically oil with wax added to solidify it. If you have a motor without lube tubes and are concerned about oil, he suggested you "wipeout" the bushing with a Q-Tip (cotton bud) using regular sewing machine oil to clean any debris inside and let it sit in the bushing for a few minutes then wipe out with a dry Q-Tip. If you have a motor with the lube tubes, like on my 221K, I use a modern version of the motor lube made to melt slowly at warm temps and this is where I buy it singer-featherweight.com/products/sew-retro-grease You can find their shipping policies here: singer-featherweight.com/pages/shipping-returns I have found their product to work very well. Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
Andy, that spring and brush, and that end piece of housing broke off when I dropped it. I too have the BZ 15-8 motor. Do you know if there is a way to fix it. This housing is made of plastic. It is amazing that your video covers exactly what I need!
Hi, Beverly. Sorry that happened. If you are OK with it could you email me some pictures and tell me what happened? I can take a look and advise you better that way. I don't use, sell or give out anyone's email address. My channel email address is andytube53@gmail.com Thanks for considering this. BTW, did you find my channel from a search, or how? Take Care.
Great videos and thank you for sharing such information. I do have a few questions you may be able to help me with. I have a Singer 128-23 Bentwood with a BZ9-8 motor. I also have a 127 with an RF4-8 Motor. How might I access the brushes in these two motors and might you know the size of the brushes in these two motors and or the brush part numbers? Also, you stated early in your video that you had obtained a parts list and would you care to share that? Thank you in advance of any info you may provide.
Have not worked on those two model machines or their particular motors. On many of these vintage motors I can't find the exact size replacement brushes and I have to buy larger brushes and sand them down to fit. You can often find used motor parts and I would take old Singer brushes over anything sold today. Just longer lasting and better quality> www.ebay.com/itm/175342881006 I find most of my manuals online. There are a few document sharing sites, and a few sellers, like manualsoncd.com
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you Sir. I will look around. I saw some pre owned that were 4mm x 4mm. Are those about the same as those you are familiar with and would you think that the motor bruses Singer used MIGHT be the same izes or lenghths?
@@robertfederle1663 I remember sizes between 3.5mm and 5.5mm and not always square. Lengths varied and after 100 motors I don't remember what size to which motor, sorry. I do know that the original brushes were very dense compared to new ones that break down quicker and leave more residue on the commutator. I run my Singer brushed down to about 1/16" before replacing it, as long as they won't contact the commutator.
Thank you. I have more motor videos if you are interested. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ ruclips.net/video/1XfYoQV4URo/видео.html ruclips.net/video/6y1EN5S2sz4/видео.html ruclips.net/video/fmEeBi8x9ZY/видео.html Thanks for watching my channel. Take care.
Those are carriage bolts, I had to look it up to be sure, I always used to call them castle bolts, no wonder those hardware guys looked at me funny. ;O) Another great video, I don't know how you crank them out so fast. Thank you.
Thank you, Mark. Carriage bolts vs Castle, hehe. Those hardware guys must have gotten headaches from rolling their eyeballs at that one. Don't feel bad though; I've given them plenty of belly laughs in my time. Glad you watched, take care.
Hi Andy, I recently purchased a"Cute" of my own. I have cleaned and oiled and created the oil wick. I removed the motor and cleaned it just as you have. The motor runs like a champ until I connect it to the machine. When I put it on the machine and put the belt on it won't turn the wheel and if it does it is is very sluggish and struggles before stopping completely. Can you give me an idea of what might be wrong? I would really love to get my machine working properly.
How does the machine feel when you turn the handwheel by hand? Smooth & easy to turn? If there is still old oil in the bushings it can cause a lot of drag and be hard for the parts to move. Here is the free instruction manual (I like the one that says 99 Sewing Machine): www.singer.com/search/support?title=99 It has good oiling location information. Be sure you gave the machine plenty of new fresh oil. Wipe up any excess. Make sure the motor belt is not too tight. That can bind the motor and prevent it from turning. If you feel the belt tension is OK, then put the machine in bobbin winding mode by turning the stop motion knob to the left 1/4 turn until it stops. That should disengage all the parts on the machine from moving except the motor, belt, and handwheel. Does the motor turn the handwheel easily? Then reengage the stop motion knob so everything moves on the machine. Run the motor. Is it still barely moving the wheel, or not at all? This sounds like the foot controller is worn or out of adjustment or very dirty carbons inside. That can prevent power (electricity) from getting to the motor. Enough gets to the motor to run it when there is no load on it, but as soon as it has to actually power up and run the machine it can not do it b/c of lack of electricity. That's why I wanted you to test the machine itself for binding, lack of oil, or tight belt. I have a video all about the foot controller if you want to see what is involved with cleaning it. ruclips.net/video/gcIB6VJ56Yk/видео.html Some people do not want to bother with the old petal and just buy a new pedal. They come with the original carbon resistor parts or new electronic parts. You can buy them already wired with new cords sometimes, or buy one without cords and transfer your existing cord from the old pedal into the new (two wires) New pedals can be found online from sewing parts sellers, eBay and maybe Amazon. Hope that helps you find a path towards getting that nice machine in service and thanks for saving it.
Oh just one more thing (I've been watching too much Colombo lately LOL) for what its worth that featherweight 221 of mine definitely has a problem when I figure it out you know I'll let you know! At least now I have a perfect 222 to use as a comparison. I just love being driven nuts by this stuff. A tube amp can do this too sometimes LOL.
Thanks for the clarification. A .8amp rating is strong for Singer. Example; the Famous 401A Slant-O-Matic has a .7amp rating. That's why I said Cute is "Small but Terrible". Terrible meaning, to me, something to contend with, powerful. Like the sting from a wasp is small but terrible. So I'm guessing you are at the point of having a slight "addiction" to vintage sewing machines? There's nothing wrong with that, and you will know you have too many when they pile up higher than the back of the sofa and you can't hide them any longer.
Take a look at the first wiring diagram of this free document and see if that helps: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/sewing-machine-wiring-diagrams.pdf
I need to see a video showing which wires are connected to which wires that you use set screws on before you poke them all back down into the cubby hole
cubby hole 👀 cute. I think you mean thumb nuts? anyway, here is a classic video for the 3-prong plug wiring if that is what you mean, ruclips.net/video/wchs-MIZ35A/видео.html here is another one; ruclips.net/video/bRvCZknjB9o/видео.html If that does not help here is a page to download wiring diagrams for vintage Singer machines, cords, and pedals, ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/sewing-machine-wiring-diagrams.pdf
Singer machines were sold worldwide and had different motors for the regions and countries they were to be used in. They made AC (alternating current) motors and DC (direct current) motors with different currents and cycles. www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/motors
Thanks, David. I recently received an email from a viewer in India who said they carbons are also made in his country and a slightly better than the Chinese manufactured carbons; like a little denser. He also said he and his friends much prefer the vintage carbons in foot pedals and motors.
It’s called a coach bolt , also those are not bearings but are brass bushings . Great vid 🇬🇧✊🏻
Hello, Jim. Are you talking about what I called the cover fastening screws? You can call them coach bolts if you like. In the Singer Parts list, they are part number 140354R and they are listed there as "Motor Bracket and Box Cover Screw". At first, I thought you meant Carriage bolt, like in this article: www.accu.co.uk/en/p/130-what-is-the-difference-between-carriage-bolts-and-coach-bolts You are correct that the parts I called bearings are not bearings at all, but bushings. They are made of bronze, actually, not brass, but no matter. I stand duly corrected by you about the bearings and you are absolutely correct that they are bushing on this motor, and now we know. I apologize for misleading my viewers. I always try my best but was wrong about the bearings. They are on one of the other motor types for model 99K and I got mixed up. I'll pin your comment to the top so other viewers will know they are bushings and not bearings. Thanks for watching it.
My understanding is the difference between a screw and a bolt is that the threads continue to the head on a screw(not wood screw) and a bolt has a portion unthreaded. Often but not always a coach bolt has domed head and a square portion on the shank that stops it spinning in the hole. Some come with a hex head but I would expect to see these used in wood not in a motor housing. The bushing is an oil impregnated bronze bushing. All to the best of my knowledge
@@dunc71
These things go by all sorts of names.
Carriage and coach is much the same.
As far as I know, the squared off shaft under the head is properly used in a pre-cut square opening in metal, but a lot of joiners simply use the square section to give a bit more bite as it sinks into the wood.
Another variation is sometimes called a roofing bolt. The roofing bolt has a full length thread.
Yes, they come with round or hex heads.
One brand of bushing is Oilite.
Of course, on these motors, having one end squared off saves another assembly step like a second spanner or screwdriver.
I needed this one! Thank you Andy💕🙌👏
I'm glad if it helped. I appreciate your comment. 🙏
Excellent video! There is an important step that needs to be included during the re-assembly - that is to re-align the upper and lower motor bearings. This was done at the factory during original assembly, but that alignment would have been lost when the upper and lower motor housings were separated during this refurbishing. The bearing on the end opposite the pulley is a "self-aligning" bearing. "Self-aligning" means that it is capable of gimballing on a spherical seat, but it has a high clamping force. So the bearing needs to be "shocked" back into alignment. Here's how you do it. Hold the re-assembled motor in one hand and run it at full speed. While it is running at full speed, you tap the non pulley shaft end of the motor several times with a hammer. You do NOT tap it hard enough to damage the motor! If you think about how hard you'd be willing to tap your forearm with the hammer, that's about the right force. After one or two taps, you'll hear the motor pick up considerable speed. You should not need more that three taps, probably two. I don't think that a rubber mallet would work, since you're depending on the "suddenness" of the tap to do the re-aligning. Very important, you're NOT tapping the pulley shaft end of the motor, but rather the opposite "solid" end of the motor!
Singer used this same self-aligning bearing design on the motors on the 301, 401, 403, etc. machines, so this procedure also applies to them.
What a fascinating comment, Bill. I'd never heard of anything like this, even from the retired Singer guys. I'll try this on the next motor I work on. I'd encourage you to post a video of the process if you have the time. I'd be happy to post a slideshow referring my viewers to it, and I hear I can add a "Card" on my existing videos to "pop-out" and reference your video. I appreciate you sharing this and I'll pin it to the top of this comment section for others who may be interested. Thanks for watching my channel.
Please do or add a video about aligning the motor!
@@andytubesewing1953 This is fascinating! Thanks Andy!
@@JebbAdams Thanks to bill3690 for sharing 👍
After reassembling my RFJ5-8 motor, I took a hammer to it as you suggested, and it did pick up speed, as you predicted. Thank you.
Andy knows how to show repairs so everyone can follow along. Great Video and very helpful.
It's very kind of you to say this, Calvin 🙏 Thank you very much ✨
I was so happy to find you..what an excellent excellent instruction and demonstration you have given… Thank you very much.
Thank you for the nice comment, Pamela. Very kind of you. If you did not see it I have a 21-video playlist of videos for this model:
ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z I appreciate you watching my channel.
Thank you for this video. Until I found it, I was afraid to tackle the motors for fear of damaging them through some stupid error on my part. You explain everything in such detail that I was able to disassemble mine, clean and lubricate it, and get it back together again correctly without replaying your video even once. Thank you!
Hey, nicely done Thomas. Thanks for keeping the machine in service. I usually go slow enough to follow along and you doing it in one play is a compliment to the both of us 🏆 Thanks for the nice comment and happy sewing.
When working with vintage screws , if I don't have the exact one, I'll sacrifice a screwdriver, filing it to a perfect fit for the slot . The screwdriver's easily replaced , whereas you'll never get back the time taken to extract a damaged set screw .
Thanks for the video. Now it's time for me to tackle my own motor , it's always easier when you've seen it done first .
That's a great tip! Thank you very much and good luck with your motor
Hello Andy what a wonderful video. :) I just spent the last few hours following everything here step by step, playback a few times to get it right and "Voila", done like supper!!! Wow I truly appreciate you. My motor is from a Singer 227M RFJ12-8( hard to get instruction on but then I remembered you :) Merci, merci, merci from Lil xo
No matter what everyone else thinks about words and explanations I think you are awesome and I understand everything you say Andy!!
@@lilboucher1480 thank you for keeping your machine in service I really appreciate your very nice comments it's viewers like you that really justify the efforts I have made with these videos I especially am grateful that after so many hours she still took the time to leave a comment you made my evening thanks so much 🙏
And I did hit the motor gently with a hammer and I do feel that it had sped up also, Hmmm who would have thunk :)
@@lilboucher1480 😂🤣
@@andytubesewing1953 Hi Andy, this machine was for a customer of mine I had cleaned, oil shinned her up nice but then when I took it back to her and ran it we noticed sparks from motor. Followed your instructions and it is now fully functional. You have been my teacher for 5 years now and I am still learning from you. Again many thanks :)
Hi Andy, hello again! Anna from the other side of the Pond! After we spoke in February for the sorting out of my 15--88's pedal and its capacitor, I went on to buy 3 more machines! A 201MK29, the aluminium one, at the end of Feb. It came with a motor but I did not feel like tackling it and put a hand crank on. It has been a wonderful new experience in sewing! I love it! The machine is the smoothest ever, with the most perfect straight stitch. Definitely one of my favourite! The latest additions last week: a 201-3 with a knee lever system (it came without a lever that I ordered online, yet to arrive) and then, last Saturday, by chance, totally unexpected (and full of guilt, as I just bought the second 201) a fabulous Toyota-made, late 50s/early 60s zig-zagger called Constellation. She is heavy as a ton! but in pristine conditions, and, as I discovered later, a rare European high-end version of a Sewmor 900 (it has got a complex zig-zag system and three needle positions, a button hole lever...still need to learn its features!). Her name is Barbarella, one, her late owner's name was Barbara, secondly, the look of the machine (with fins!) speaks of the swinging 60s, space exploration Era, and she is all turquoise and shiny. I am over the moon with them (a bit overwhelmed by renovation work obviously!) but again, I would have not ventured in restoring all of them if it had not been for your videos and teaching. Thank you.
I am now willing to take up a bit of motor maintenance and heard for the first time in this video what a good motor sound should be. I have been struggling with trying to understand if mine were ok. Could you do a video with all the sounds, good and bad, that a machine motor, (according to the age, obvs. brands) should and should not do? I think it could be very helpful when we work with them and they are new to us.
I also have a question, I have only an issue with Barbarella and it is aesthetics. She came with light brown spots on the base, the size of very small milk chocolate chips. They seem to be UNDERNEATH the still perfect shiny clear coat. I really do not understand what these are, and they are not going away. Could it be rust spot coming from the inside of the cast iron structure? It is a mystery to me. Any idea of what it could be?
Thank you so much again for all you are doing, I feel I have spent this first half year learning a lot of new skills, despite Covid, it's a really good achievement. Btw, I also noticed how courses for technicians, in Europe at least, are non-existent. It is such a shame, people want to learn. You are really doing a public educational service to the World. Thank you.
All the best,
Anna.
If the machine is cast iron they yes, the spots may be rust, but I have had spots like that on two model 301A machines that are cast aluminum. These were pale spots, like chocolate milk, and in an area to the left of the upright. Down in the paint. I never figured them out, but a couple people also told me they had seen this on other machines, aluminum and iron and with and without clear coat.
(The 301A is not clear coated)
You are gathering quite a collection of machines there. They all sound very nice.
I understand that a version of the 201 is called a 1200 and was made for dressmakers with a special knee lever system the raised and lowered the presser foot!
Imagine that 😳 not having to use one hand to lift and lower the presser bar, but being able to keep both hands on the fabric. The rest of the 1200 is the same as the 201 in these records: www.singer.com/search/support?title=1200
Sorry, but I won't be doing a motor video like that. The cost and logistics are too much. Thanks for watching my channel and enjoy those marvelous machines. ✨
@@andytubesewing1953 oh, noo! I hoped in a different answer! Barbarella (the Constellation Zig Zag) is a true heavy weight cast iron Japanese made 60ish years young lady. These clones are sturdy! I have tried a light polish, it didn't have any great effect. I guess I'll have to live with it! The quality of the stitch is nothing compared to the old lady Singers (expecially the 201), but she is so much fun (a sewing machine with fins!) and with a .8 amp motor, wow! She runs! Thanks also for the info about the dressmaker 201. It will be a great machine for free motion quilting then, which I love to do! One thing that I was really missing was in fact the needle up/down position (which I have got on a 17 year old Janome). Though I have noticed that with a fine tuned pedal I can control that. Not just a plain button to push, but a good motor skill of the legs! :D Exercise!!!! Shame for the motor video, but thank you anyway! Take good care. Till the next conversation! Anna
Bro very very thank 🙏you your this video super 👌🏻excellent useful videos 🙏
You are welcome. Here is my Playlist of my 21 videos for Singer Model 99K: ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKIIUgkEujqHc9iNWN9NPW2Z Good Luck.
Thanks for the great video. I have a RFJ 9-8 (for my Spartan 192K) and I took it apart because I saw some sparking through the opening on the commutator end. My carbon brushes are worn about the same amount as yours so I did not replace. Cleaned as you did but with alcohol only. Sparking seems is gone so that's a relief. Thanks!
Nicely Done! If they spark again in the future, try this newer method of seating the brushes to a clean commutator. You'll love this! ruclips.net/video/rpTy_Bz3prA/видео.html
@Andy Tube! :) Thanks bunches for this vid. I might give Stubborn a break tomorrow, and let him "stew" hehe.. I feel comfy to tackle the motor on my 99k.. I have a non singer too.. brother.. and it makes smells going at more than slow speeds or struggling with heavier fabric.. I might take a look at it's motor too and see if I see anything odd. It might be a wiring issue. Most of my machines were bought cheep, and I would love to learn to fix them up.. I like to sew canvas and denim bags cases and pouches. Soon maybe, dolls :) will see how it all goes!
I sure wish you had a website. Even more, I am grateful you are so patient and kind with your tutorials here. Thank you again! You are my singer hero! :) hehe!
at 41:47, what size is that? I have a few but want to make sure I have the right size? and I watched the entire video. The only place you greased was at the top of the top cap, in the baring hole. I was told some motors need oil and some need grease. Have you found this to be right? Reason I ask, my 99k growls at me, no sparks, but it's like a growl once I get going with it.
I have a treadle I love, but I have a motor for my 15-90 and 1591 (potted) and of course my 99k.. my 66 is a hand crank haha! :) thanks again, Andy!
Thank you, Andy. I will get the machine out and follow your advice. I considered the foot pedal as a possible issue. I will rewatch the video and check it. out . Thank you!
Best of luck!
Great video. I have a 99K with a BZ 15-8 motor. The wiring is crumbling and must be replaced. Do you have a video on how to replace the wiring? Thank you - your videos are wonderful.
have not done a motor rewire video sorry but thanks for watching my channel 🌷
Andy, I’m pretty new to Sewing Machine restoration. You really helped me bring a 237 back to life, and now you’re leading the way as I work in on my own 1956 “99.”
Thanks so much for sharing your expertise.
One related question though- do you have a video on painting parts like the motor housing? Mine has quite a bit chipped away and I don’t know where to start (or if I should just leave it alone)
Thanks again for all you share.
Welcome to VSM and restoration/tune-up work. I hope you enjoy it. I just sand the housing finish smooth and even. Maybe 600 then 900 grit. Then use 3 fine/light coats of Rustoleum 2X Gloss Black spraypaint.rustoleum.com/en/products/gloss-thd?ls=334026&lc=Gloss%20Black I have to be careful b/c I tend to be heavy-handed with the amount of paint and light coats of this gloss black are better. If the parts are really bad, like around a motor bracket or something, I use an orange-based gel paint stripper and detail brush to get down to bare metal on those parts, then 900 grit if the brush strokes show. Some folks like semi-gloss better. Thanks for watching my channel and don't be a stranger here.
Thanks Andy very helpful info
thanks for watching, Esther.
Does anyone have a size for the shaft diameter at the pulley end or pulley bore?
Just interested as looking to try DC motor of modern manufacture and more electronic speed control.
Another question. Are these old machines (mines a 99 1927 year) earthed when a motor is attached?
A good reason to go low voltage.
Just watching Andy struggling with that set screw. I would want to check that out again to make sure it's in the right position.
It's also worth with the pulley off, to run the set screw a good way through so that you can see it in the bore, just to make sure it's not catching on something.
I had a similar problem when removing the hand (balance) wheel.
Took the locking knob off, large diameter, plus the set screw (turn limit), cleaned it all up and put it back.
Was careful to get the large three pronged washer in the right way round.
No matter how much I tightened down the knurled knob, the balance wheel still span round.
Took the knob off again and thoroughly cleaned all the threads and lubricated.
It ran nicely down the shaft female thread and locked the balance wheel in place. Unlocking just as good.
Surprising what some old crud can resist.
I have a 66 that came with an RF 4-8 motor that I can't find any information about. It looks very similar to this motor, but the housing is in 4 parts, and the carriage bolts are the other way around, requiring you to take off the pulley end before disassembly. I'm guessing they simplified this design for the RF5-8. Thanks for the video
I've had very little success finding good info about the vintage SInger motors. A few parts lists, some with diagrams, but not any detailed assembly or "exploded" pictures showing the assembly sequence. It's mostly been a trial-and-error adventure. I'm starting to believe SInger had different model numbers for the motors based on the country of manufacture also. Thanks for stopping by and for the interesting comment.
"J" was the Prefix for St-jean Richelieu, Quebec, Canada manufacture [ST-John Qc] from 1906 to 1986 , they even had their own serial #'s for a while, witch complicates finding parts or model years sometimes ;-)-
Nice comment, Dan. I'm familiar with the "J" serial numbers too. In fact, so far in 2019, I've received more emails asking about how/where to find parts for the "J" machines than any other models. I have not been able to help much, so "complicates finding parts" is dead-on accurate IMO. Thanks for watching and take care.
St. John's, Quebec I'm guessing, Andy. I have a 15J90 Centennial. Waiting on my 99K to arrive this week from Goodwill online. 🛬
Thanks. Probably so, Rich. Enjoy your "new" 99K 👍
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you, sir. Sure enjoy your videos. 🇺🇸
Thanks for all the great information. I learn so much from your tutorials. Can the motors be interchanged between machines??
Thank you, Pam. I guess you mean between different model numbers? The problem is most motot=rs have a mounting bracket designed for a certain model. It needs to align the motor pulley to the handwheel properly. I don't recall being able to use a motor from one model on a different model other than the early slant needle models, like 401A, 403A, and 404 all use the same motor so they are interchangeable. Thanks for watching my channel.
Hi Andy, I just found your channel yesterday and I have learned a lot about opening up a motor. This video was just what I was looking for. You explain things where I can understand. I just purchased a Singer 99k yesterday and the motor barely turned over. When I got it home and cleaned it up and oiled the light came on but motor didn't make a sound. I am going to try my hand at cleaning the capacitor and check motor brushes to see out of curiosity if I can get it running. I have a new motor that shipped today but would love to see if I can get this original motor to work. Thank you so much for this video!
Thanks, Tammy. Keep an eye out for a loose wire. It seems like even with bad brushes or dirty commutators there would be a sound of some kind. Remember the electricity to the motor goes thru the foot controller first. ruclips.net/video/gcIB6VJ56Yk/видео.html Good Luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 I just learned something else. Thank you!
welcome
This is a great video. Is there good info out there on the BZ 15-8 Motor? I would have been lost with out this video, but would like to find more info on this type of motor.
I've never even seen a BZ motor. BR & BY & RF. The motor list says BZ motors were used on models 99, 275, 285. The BR & BY motors are very similar to the RF motor in the video.
Thanks for this great video!!! My 185K actually has a VERY similar motor, Made in Canada, RFJ8-8. - Your tutorial was so helpful!!! :)
thank you, and I'm glad you found the video. The 185K model is actually the new replacement for the 99K, and almost all of the parts are the same. (not all) If you ever have a maintenance issue on your 185K you will most likely find a solution in my "Cute" model 99K series. Take care, Janna, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 I just finished cleaning up the presser foot while watching your other Singer 99 video. When I first turned on this machine it sounded terrible, now it is purring away like a kitten!!!
Thanks again! I will be sharing your page with friends and family who are refurbishing their own sewing machines! You are such a great teacher! :)
@@jannagordon8425 I'm happy you saved that motor! Nicely done, Janna. Also, thanks for the referrals. I always forget to ask people to like the videos. My friends tell me the more likes than the better chance of the video being high on the results lits when people do a search. I don't care about the kudos but simply hope more people will work on and save these nice machines.
If you get another model of Singer be sure to check my playlist page where I have 450+ videos sorted by model number. Thanks again, and take care.
Great video! I have a similar motor for my 99k, also without grease tubes. I am wondering what kind of lubricant you added to the bushels? Since the original lubricant/grease is no longer to be found, it is a nightmare to navigate the different options, etc. Especially since these motors don't have grease ports.
After talking to a retired Singer repairman from Canada in 2021 I learned the bushings in a motor like this are "sintered bronze" and have oil impregnated in microscopic spaces. When the bushing is warmed during use the oil comes to the surface of the bushing to create a thin film for the shaft to ride on. When the bearing cools back down the oil "retreats" back into the spaces. He said when you have a Singer motor without lube tubes or a wicking system it is because they used sintered bushings.
The older motors with lube tube systems did not have sintered bushings so they needed lubrication. SIngers original motor lube was made to slowly melt at operating temperatures and that resulting liquid would seep into a wick, usually made of wool, and keep the shaft lubricated. Grease is basically oil with wax added to solidify it.
If you have a motor without lube tubes and are concerned about oil, he suggested you "wipeout" the bushing with a Q-Tip (cotton bud) using regular sewing machine oil to clean any debris inside and let it sit in the bushing for a few minutes then wipe out with a dry Q-Tip.
If you have a motor with the lube tubes, like on my 221K, I use a modern version of the motor lube made to melt slowly at warm temps and this is where I buy it singer-featherweight.com/products/sew-retro-grease
You can find their shipping policies here: singer-featherweight.com/pages/shipping-returns
I have found their product to work very well. Thanks for watching my channel and good luck.
Thank you for an excellent video.
Glad you enjoyed it! thanks for commenting. Take Care.
awesome tutorial! thx Andy! 🤗
Thanks for your kind comment 👍
Andy, that spring and brush, and that end piece of housing broke off when I dropped it. I too have the BZ 15-8 motor. Do you know if there is a way to fix it. This housing is made of plastic. It is amazing that your video covers exactly what I need!
Hi, Beverly. Sorry that happened. If you are OK with it could you email me some pictures and tell me what happened? I can take a look and advise you better that way. I don't use, sell or give out anyone's email address. My channel email address is andytube53@gmail.com Thanks for considering this. BTW, did you find my channel from a search, or how?
Take Care.
Great videos and thank you for sharing such information. I do have a few questions you may be able to help me with. I have a Singer 128-23 Bentwood with a BZ9-8 motor. I also have a 127 with an RF4-8 Motor. How might I access the brushes in these two motors and might you know the size of the brushes in these two motors and or the brush part numbers? Also, you stated early in your video that you had obtained a parts list and would you care to share that? Thank you in advance of any info you may provide.
Have not worked on those two model machines or their particular motors. On many of these vintage motors I can't find the exact size replacement brushes and I have to buy larger brushes and sand them down to fit. You can often find used motor parts and I would take old Singer brushes over anything sold today. Just longer lasting and better quality> www.ebay.com/itm/175342881006
I find most of my manuals online. There are a few document sharing sites, and a few sellers, like manualsoncd.com
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you Sir. I will look around. I saw some pre owned that were 4mm x 4mm. Are those about the same as those you are familiar with and would you think that the motor bruses Singer used MIGHT be the same izes or lenghths?
@@robertfederle1663 I remember sizes between 3.5mm and 5.5mm and not always square. Lengths varied and after 100 motors I don't remember what size to which motor, sorry. I do know that the original brushes were very dense compared to new ones that break down quicker and leave more residue on the commutator. I run my Singer brushed down to about 1/16" before replacing it, as long as they won't contact the commutator.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thanks again Sir. I appreciate the reply.
The brown material under the brush tubes is phenolic. Same material that is used for electronic circuit boards.
thanks for sharing
Great video! Had a fear of motors! No more!🤗
Thank you. I have more motor videos if you are interested. ruclips.net/p/PLsCOZgzzaiKJSu0T9oeaheTZsrUe91kkZ
ruclips.net/video/1XfYoQV4URo/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/6y1EN5S2sz4/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/fmEeBi8x9ZY/видео.html
Thanks for watching my channel.
Take care.
Those are carriage bolts, I had to look it up to be sure, I always used to call them castle bolts, no wonder those hardware guys looked at me funny.
;O)
Another great video, I don't know how you crank them out so fast.
Thank you.
Thank you, Mark. Carriage bolts vs Castle, hehe. Those hardware guys must have gotten headaches from rolling their eyeballs at that one. Don't feel bad though; I've given them plenty of belly laughs in my time. Glad you watched, take care.
Thanks!
Very welcome, and thanks for your interest
Hi Andy, I recently purchased a"Cute" of my own. I have cleaned and oiled and created the oil wick. I removed the motor and cleaned it just as you have. The motor runs like a champ until I connect it to the machine. When I put it on the machine and put the belt on it won't turn the wheel and if it does it is is very sluggish and struggles before stopping completely. Can you give me an idea of what might be wrong? I would really love to get my machine working properly.
How does the machine feel when you turn the handwheel by hand? Smooth & easy to turn? If there is still old oil in the bushings it can cause a lot of drag and be hard for the parts to move. Here is the free instruction manual (I like the one that says 99 Sewing Machine):
www.singer.com/search/support?title=99 It has good oiling location information. Be sure you gave the machine plenty of new fresh oil. Wipe up any excess. Make sure the motor belt is not too tight. That can bind the motor and prevent it from turning. If you feel the belt tension is OK, then put the machine in bobbin winding mode by turning the stop motion knob to the left 1/4 turn until it stops. That should disengage all the parts on the machine from moving except the motor, belt, and handwheel. Does the motor turn the handwheel easily? Then reengage the stop motion knob so everything moves on the machine. Run the motor. Is it still barely moving the wheel, or not at all? This sounds like the foot controller is worn or out of adjustment or very dirty carbons inside. That can prevent power (electricity) from getting to the motor. Enough gets to the motor to run it when there is no load on it, but as soon as it has to actually power up and run the machine it can not do it b/c of lack of electricity. That's why I wanted you to test the machine itself for binding, lack of oil, or tight belt. I have a video all about the foot controller if you want to see what is involved with cleaning it.
ruclips.net/video/gcIB6VJ56Yk/видео.html Some people do not want to bother with the old petal and just buy a new pedal. They come with the original carbon resistor parts or new electronic parts. You can buy them already wired with new cords sometimes, or buy one without cords and transfer your existing cord from the old pedal into the new (two wires) New pedals can be found online from sewing parts sellers, eBay and maybe Amazon. Hope that helps you find a path towards getting that nice machine in service and thanks for saving it.
The “J” is attached to Canada I believe because it was manufactured there 😁
Oh just one more thing (I've been watching too much Colombo lately LOL) for what its worth that featherweight 221 of mine definitely has a problem when I figure it out you know I'll let you know! At least now I have a perfect 222 to use as a comparison. I just love being driven nuts by this stuff. A tube amp can do this too sometimes LOL.
You found the prob, didn't you!
Fantastisk
Thank you.
The motor on my 1955 model 99 is an RF5-8 labeled made in USA. Current rating is .8 amps.
Thanks for the clarification. A .8amp rating is strong for Singer. Example; the Famous 401A Slant-O-Matic has a .7amp rating. That's why I said Cute is "Small but Terrible". Terrible meaning, to me, something to contend with, powerful. Like the sting from a wasp is small but terrible. So I'm guessing you are at the point of having a slight "addiction" to vintage sewing machines? There's nothing wrong with that, and you will know you have too many when they pile up higher than the back of the sofa and you can't hide them any longer.
That basically is the way the motor is on my 99 - and the lack of lube cups tells me they used permanently lubricated bearings.
agreed
Hi Andy, how to connect a foot pedal to my 5.8 motor. Thanks
Take a look at the first wiring diagram of this free document and see if that helps: ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/sewing-machine-wiring-diagrams.pdf
I need to see a video showing which wires are connected to which wires that you use set screws on before you poke them all back down into the cubby hole
Help me wuth tge wuring to tge electrical plug.
cubby hole 👀 cute. I think you mean thumb nuts? anyway, here is a classic video for the 3-prong plug wiring if that is what you mean,
ruclips.net/video/wchs-MIZ35A/видео.html here is another one; ruclips.net/video/bRvCZknjB9o/видео.html
If that does not help here is a page to download wiring diagrams for vintage Singer machines, cords, and pedals, ismacs.net/singer_sewing_machine_company/manuals/sewing-machine-wiring-diagrams.pdf
why Singer BAK or BZK-5 motor made in different power , like 0-3A , 65w , 75w on the same machine ?
Singer machines were sold worldwide and had different motors for the regions and countries they were to be used in. They made AC (alternating current) motors and DC (direct current) motors with different currents and cycles.
www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/motors
I agree, the new (chinese?) carbons are softer.
Thanks, David. I recently received an email from a viewer in India who said they carbons are also made in his country and a slightly better than the Chinese manufactured carbons; like a little denser. He also said he and his friends much prefer the vintage carbons in foot pedals and motors.
Sorry for jumping the gun, I think your video on the 403 looks the almost the same as the BZ 15-8
Really? I'm shocked that a BZ motor looks like the PA motor in a 403A. WOW!
@@andytubesewing1953 Well…parts of it😀…not the back end of it.
@@MP-tt2uu Haha, OK I get it now 👍😀
No way. NOT doing that. I just wanted to see if anything needed to be greased, but it doesn't appear so.
No worries then. No grease required. Happy sewing.
Thanks!
I appreciate your supporting my channel. Thanks so much. 🙏