Singer Motor BRJ-8 Rewire
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- Опубликовано: 6 авг 2024
- This BRJ-8 came off my Singer Model 128 from 1925. She had been "rewired" in the past, but I hardly call a mess of wire and electrical tape a proper rewire job. Honestly, some of these Singer motors can be a crapshoot when it comes to rewiring them, this one worked out just fine.
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0:11 Tear down
3:32 She's open - internal inspection.
5:44 strip old wires
7:28 new wires
9:15 soldering the new
11:04 heat shrink the connections
12:45 button her up
18:52 running on the machine!
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I like the idea of the double wrap shrink wrap to the leads. I learned something! Great video.
Glad it was helpful!
Hi Bob, I just wanted to say a big thankyou for this vid. I recently came across this type of motor for the first time and have found your advice on disassembly to be invaluable.
Glad that it helped!
Great video, Bob. Very helpful as all of your videos are. That machine had beautiful decals.
Glad you enjoyed it
Nice! Thanks Bob
Thank you too!
very nice job.
Another excellent video! Thank you for sharing these. Any tips for opening the Bakelite case on a BR 7 motor? I have followed all of your steps for the BR 8 shown here through the point of cutting the wires...but at the 3:20'ish mark in the video, the case just slides apart and mine refuses to give up any secrets. I don't want to damage the Bakelite and have already tried harsh language and threats of violence. It is stubborn.
Did you ever find any answers, Tara? I'm having the same problem!
@@dqverify6797 No. :( I had to give up. I cleaned and rewired it the best I could, but I would love to go back and do it up right.
@@TaraRicherson I did finally get mine--I'd cut the wires really short, but they were still poking into the hole juuust enough to keep it from opening. I used the flat end of a drill bit holder to shove them back in, pulled and pulled, and finally got the two pieces separated enough to fit the flat end of a metal rasp in between them--not pressing against the inside of the motor, just setting the edge in that gap. I wiggled the rasp gently back and forth a bit (like in a see-saw motion), widening the gap a little on one side and then the other, and then it got past whatever was making it stick and opened up. Hopefully it will be the same for you!
How did you polish the bars in the armature? What can I use given that I don't have a workshop? Would a soft cloth help?
You can flush it with CRC Quick Drying Contact Cleaner and carefully clean the contacts with a paper towel.
Hello Bob
I get the old singer motor, cataloq B.U.K.8-E. What year is it made Bob?
Thanks for the video. Can I ask what bit you used for the pulley screw? Mine is stuck fast and I'm worried about stripping it.
I presume you have a Chapman, if so, a #88 works great.
Hallo Bob
I'am Dedi, from Indonesia. I often see your video's and it's all very help for me (Singer 66, 201, 221). Because i start learn about restoration the old sewing machine. Now I'm waiting for Singer motor Catalog BUK 8, I dont know it's working or not. If it come, I hope you help me. ( sorry, my english not good)
Thank you Bob!
This is very helpful! Do you have a video on how to replace the motor brush wiring? I really don't want to do this, but I'm looking closely at it and there is some copper exposed. Or can I just hit it with solder?
You can just replace the wire to the brush holder in the same way as you would for the primary side. Just make sure the orientation doesn't get swapped or the motor runs backwards!
@@BobFowlerWorkshop well...I forgot to mention this isn't the exact motor I have. I have the one for the 15-90. BR8S. It seem that the connection to the brush holder is fixed/soldered in. Can I email you a photo??
@@T1trigirl Sure. argosybob@gmail.com
This is great! Should I be worried about any ohmic issues? I'm following your work step by step but I am unsure what is the expected resistance of each loop of coils. I measured the wires individually with the respective brush and they read 13.6 Ohms each.
That's about right, anywhere between 12 and 16 ohms is fine, as long as they are within 10% or so of each other, it should be fine.
Hi there look forward to doing my motor rehab, you are so Inspiring! Question is this wire a 18 g stranded 300 or 600 volt? Thank you!
18 gauge, stranded, 300 volt is fine for 120 volt service areas.
Hi there, question for you, what kind of wire is used for the speed controller. I have a 1947 singer model 15. Your videos are awesome!!! Thank you!!!
If you're talking about the Singer button type controller, I use 18 gauge lamp cord for those. Make sure you save and reuse the heat shielding tubing that the factory used, it adds an extra measure of protection inside the box.
@@BobFowlerWorkshop thank you so much for your reply, I have the 600 volt will that work?
It’s a knees speed controller
@@bilahernandez8003 Certainly will, just heavier insulation.
@@bilahernandez8003 OK, so it's the knee bar type in a bentwood case? You can use the same wire as for your motor. Use lamp cord though for your power cord.
Also, I have aa BR7 motor. What grease should I use and will you post a tutorial on either cleaning or repairing the grease wick?
Some will disagree, but the Sew Retro Grease from the Featherweight Shop is a good choice.
Starting @ 13:45
Hi Bob. What did you use for strain relief? Did I miss something? I rewired a 1937 128-13 with the knee control in a bentwood case last year. If memory serves, I think I ended up using a grommet for the hole after tying an underwriters knot. I did the same thing you did with the heat shrink tubing. I ended up having to rewire the lamp, too. Hope y'all are doing well.
Hi Rich. In this case, because it's a hardwire to the knee contriller, I used a small zip tie indide the case as a strain relief. I went back and looked at the video and apparently I missed showing that. Thanks for pointing it out! I didn't add a grommet as 3 layers of shrink tube pretty much takes care of that in an application where the wires won't be moving around.
@@BobFowlerWorkshop Excellent idea using the zip tie. I'll have to remember that one. Thanks.